Solving Fit Issues - Wild Ginger Software

Solving Fit Issues - Wild Ginger Software
Solving Fit Issues
by Lisa Shanley and Karen Campbell
Solving Fit Issues
Table of Contents
Neck and Upper Back .................................................3
Forward Thrusting Neck .........................................................3
Dowager Hump .......................................................................3
Rounded Upper Back ..............................................................4
Erect Upper Back ....................................................................4
Shoulders ....................................................................5
Sloping Shoulders ...................................................................5
Square Shoulders ....................................................................5
Shoulder Tip ............................................................................6
Chest and Shoulder Blades .........................................6
Front Chest or Back Shoulder Blades Too Tight ......................6
Front Chest or Back Shoulder Blades Too Loose .....................7
Bust and Bust Darts ....................................................7
Bust Area Too Tight .................................................................7
Bust Area Too Loose ...............................................................8
Too Much Fabric Under Arm or in Armscye .............................8
Bodice Darts Do Not Point to Apex of Bust .............................9
Waist ........................................................................10
Waistline Not Parallel to Floor ..............................................10
Curved Back ..........................................................................10
Armscye, Sleeves, and Biceps ..................................11
Armscye Too Small ................................................................11
Armscye Too Large ................................................................12
Sleeve Too Tight Across Bicep ..............................................12
Sleeve Cap Appears Too Short ..............................................13
Hips ..........................................................................13
Curvy High Hip ......................................................................13
Flat High Hip .........................................................................14
Abdomen ..................................................................14
Prominent Abdomen .............................................................14
Flat Abdomen ........................................................................15
Buttocks ...................................................................15
Pants Too Loose Under Buttocks ..........................................15
Drooped Buttocks .................................................................16
Prominent Buttocks ..............................................................16
Flat Buttocks .........................................................................17
Crotch .......................................................................17
Front and Back Crotch Too Short ..........................................17
Front and Back Crotch Too Long ...........................................18
Back Crotch Too Tight ...........................................................18
Front Crotch Too Tight ..........................................................19
Thighs .......................................................................20
Thigh and Leg Too Tight .......................................................20
Thigh and Leg Too Loose ......................................................20
Tips for Fitting Bras ...............................................................21
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Solving Fit Issues
The Wild Ginger Fitting Guide provides detailed descriptions
and illustrations on the most common fitting problems.
Suggestions for measurement changes, design settings and
style options are made for each fitting issue. No changes
should be made to your measurements or settings
until you have done your initial fitting garment using
the defaults settings. Do not try to guess what
changes you might need to make.
NOTE: For ALL fittings, check the bustline, waistline, hipline
and pants crotch line to be sure they are level.
Neck and Upper Back
Neck Point Settings
Forward Thrusting Neck
Fitting Problem:
A horizontal fold forms just below the base of the jewel
neckline and the front jewel neckline is too tight. The
shoulder seam pulls forward at the neck point. The back
jewel neckline may rise at the center back.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Some changes are only necessary when the jewel
neckline is chosen.
Increase the Front Neckline Depth setting first. This
increase may be sufficient to push the shoulder seam
back to the correct location.
If necessary, use the Neck Point setting to change the
position of the shoulder seam at the neck point.
Neckline Settings
Dowager Hump
Fitting Problem:
The length and width of the upper back increases. The fitting
bodice pulls tightly across the back of the neck and upper
back area. The back jewel neckline may not be wide enough
to accommodate the flesh in this area.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
•
Forward Thrusting Neck
Front Neck Depth Adjustment
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
•
•
Choose the Back Neckline Dart style option.
Increase or decrease the Back Neckline Dart length as
needed to release fabric over the largest body bulge.
Increase the Center Back Length measurement
If you increase the Center Back Length, you must also
increase the Back Shoulder Slope the same amount.
Increase the Neck Circumference measurement slightly
if more back neck width is needed.
Decrease the Back Jewel Neck Depth setting.
Increase the Neck Point setting if more fabric is needed
in the upper back at the shoulder/neck intersection.
Dowager Hump
Solving Fit Issues
Rounded Upper Back
Back Neckline Dart
Back Dart Length
Rounded Upper Back
Center Back Length Measurement
Center Back Length, Back Shoulder Width,
and Back Shoulder Slope Measurements
•
Rounded Upper Back
Erect Upper Back
Fitting Problem:
The bodice is too tight across the upper back. Diagonal
wrinkles form from the mid point of the back armscye across
the shoulder blade area up to the back neckline.
Fitting Problem:
The bodice is too loose across the upper back. Loose
horizontal folds form across the shoulder blade area.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
Increase the Center Back Length measurement.
Increase the Back Shoulder Slope measurement the
same amount as the Center Back Length.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
You may also have to increase the Back Shoulder Width
measurement.
Decrease the Center Back Length measurement.
Decrease the Back Shoulder Slope measurement the
same amount as the Center Back Length.
You may also have to decrease the Back Shoulder Width
measurement.
Solving Fit Issues
Erect Upper Back
Negative Shoulder Height Setting
Square Shoulders
Fitting Problem:
The shoulders angle out from the neck at an almost 90
degree angle. Diagonal wrinkles form from the shoulder,
blade, and biceps areas. The sleeve cap appears to be too
short and pulls up.
Fitting Solution:
Erect Upper Back
•
Increase the shoulder height setting.
Shoulders
Sloping Shoulders
Fitting Problem:
The shoulders angle down from the neckline at a sharper
angle than average. The sleeve cap falls of the top of
the shoulder and the armscye appears to large. Diagonal
wrinkles form from neck to the lower armhole.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
Decrease the shoulder height setting.
To create the illusion of square shoulders, wear shoulder
pads.
Sloping Shoulders
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Square Shoulders
Positive Shoulder Height Setting
Solving Fit Issues
Shoulder Tip
Fitting Problem:
The shoulder seam on the fitting bodice is in front of or
behind the shoulder tip.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
To move the shoulder point forward, increase the
shoulder point setting.
To move the shoulder point backward, decrease the
shoulder point setting.
Shoulder Settings
Chest and Shoulder Blades
Front Chest or Back Shoulder Blades Too Tight
Fitting Problem:
Horizontal wrinkles pull across the front or back of the body
from armscye to armscye. The sleeve cap pulls toward the
center front or center back of the body and the armscye
looks too small.
Fitting Solution:
•
Shoulder Tip
•
•
Increase the Front or Back Shoulder Width
measurements.
The Armhole Shape Tool can be used to increase the
width across the front chest and the back shoulder
blade area.
The armscye unsewn back dart style can be chosen to
add room in the upper back area.
Positive Shoulder Point Setting
Front Chest or Back Shoulder Blades Too Tight
Negative Shoulder Point Setting
Front and Back Shoulder Width Measurements
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Solving Fit Issues
Increase Front / Back Shoulder Widths
Front Chest or Back Shoulder Blades Too Loose
Bust and Bust Darts
Bust Area Too Tight
Fitting Problem:
Armhole Shape Tool
The fitting bodice is too tight over the fullest part of the
bustline. The garment appears to be too short-waisted.
Diagonal wrinkles form over the most curved part of the
bust out to the sideseams and waistline seam. Bustline feels
as though it were “squished”.
Fitting Solution:
Front Chest or Back Shoulder Blades Too Loose
Fitting Problem:
•
•
Vertical folds form at the center front or center back of the
garment. The sleeve cap falls off the shoulders and the
armscye looks too large.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Decrease the Front or Back Shoulder Width
measurements.
You may also have to decrease Shoulder Slope
measurements if the shoulder points were not marked
correctly.
The Armhole Shape Tool can be used to decrease the
width across the front chest and the back shoulder
blade area.
•
•
Increase the Chest Circumference measurement if the
garment is too tight and cannot easily be closed.
Increase the Bra Cup Size to increase the bust cup
adjustment, lengthen the center front seam and increase
the dart uptake to provide more room for the bustline.
For button front styles, add a buttonhole at the bust
level to prevent gaping.
If the overall circumference of the garment is comfortable,
increase the Side/Arm Point setting to move more fabric
to the bodice front.
If the side bust dart is too large, decrease the Dart
Override setting to reduce the size of the side bust dart
and add fabric to the armscye area.
Bust Area Too Tight
Chest or Blades Too Loose
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Solving Fit Issues
Bust Area Too Loose
Fitting Problem:
The fitting bodice sags over the bust area. Loose vertical
wrinkles form over the side bust dart.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
Chest Circumference and Bra Cup Size
•
Decrease the Chest Circumference measurement if the
garment is too loose overall when closed.
If the overall circumference is comfortable, decrease
the Bra Cup Size to reduce the size of the bust dart and
the amount of fabric spread over the bustline.
If the side bust dart is too small, increase the Dart
Override setting to increase the size of the side bust
dart and remove fabric in the armscye area.
Increase Side/Arm Point Setting
Bust Area Too Loose
Sideseam Placement Settings
Positive Dart Override Setting
Too Much Fabric Under Arm or in Armscye
Fitting Problem:
Negative Dart Override Setting
When the sleeves are sewn to the fitting bodice, a dart tries
to form in the armscye area or there is too much fabric under
the arm or in the armscye seam.
Fitting Solution:
•
Dart Override Setting
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
If the armscye sags below the armpit, decrease the
Front Shoulder Slope measurement.
Solving Fit Issues
•
•
If the armscye does not sag, the dart uptake may not be
sufficient to accommodate the fullness of the bustline.
Pinch out and pin the dart formed in the armscye.
Measure the depth of the pinch up and set the Dart
Override setting to this amount. The dart override
setting will increase the size of the side bust dart uptake
and will reduce the size of the front armhole.
Set Dart Override
Bodice Darts Do Not Point to Apex of Bust
Too Much Fabric Under Arm
Fitting Problem:
The dart points of the side and waist darts are too high
above the bustline or too low below the bustline.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
Increase the Bust Point Vertical measurement to lower
the darts.
Decrease the Bust Point Vertical measurement to raise
the darts.
Increase the Bust Point Horizontal to widen the darts.
Decrease the Bust Point Horizontal to narrow the darts.
Pinch out and pin dart
Dart Points Do Not Point to Bust Apex
Positive Dart Override Setting
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Solving Fit Issues
Bust Point Vertical
Center Lengths and Slopes
Curved Back
Fitting Problem:
Bust Point Horizontal
Waist
The fitting garment is too long just below the waistline at
center back. A tapering horizontal dart forms across the
back just below the waistband indicating too much fabric
in this area. This dart is frequently the result of the curved
back posture. The horizontal dart may not form on pants if
the garment is binding in the crotch. The fabric under the
buttocks is too tight and forms wrinkles that slant toward
the garment inseams. The hip line and waistband may pull
down in the back.
Waistline Not Parallel to Floor
Fitting Problem:
The waistline seam does not lie parallel to the floor at center
front or center back. The bodice pulls up or sags at the
waistline center front or center back. NOTE: Center front
length CANNOT be longer than Center Back Length.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
Increase the Center Front or Center Back measurement
if the waistline seam is pulling up.
Decrease the Center Front or Center Back measurement
if the waistline is sagging.
Adjust front and back shoulder slopes the same as
center front and center back length.
The waistline should feel a bit too “high” but is correct
if it lies parallel to the floor about 1” (2.5 cm) above the
navel and where the smallest indention of the waistline
at the sideseam occurs.
Waistline Not Parallel
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
•
Drop the center back at that waistline using the CB/Drop
setting. If the drop is extreme, you may also need to
drop the sideseam using the SS/Drop setting to smooth
the waistline.
If the waistband stands away from the body, check the
pant waist setting.
If the area of the body closest to the center back is
fairly flat, the distance of the darts from center back
may need to be increased. Use the Dart Position setting
to move the dart away from center back.
Two back darts will likely be needed to control the fabric
correctly above the buttocks.
The Wild Cut may also be useful if the center back seam
is standing away from the body. The Wild Cut increases
the length of the center back crotch curve providing
more room for the protruding buttocks.
Sway Back
10
Solving Fit Issues
Center Back/Waist Drop
Pants Adjustments
Armscye, Sleeves, and Biceps
Armscye Too Small
Fitting Problem:
Increase Back Crotch Extension Setting
Tight diagonal wrinkles form from the bust point to the upper
armscye area in the front and/or from mid center back to
the upper armscye in the back. The sleeve cap rises and
appears to be too short to fit over the ball of the upper arm.
The arm cannot easily be raised.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
Increase the Front and/or Back Shoulder Slope
measurements, if available OR Shoulder Height setting.
Make sure sleeve seam is trimmed and clipped.
Position of 1st Back Dart Closest to Center Back
Armscye Too Small
Wild Cut
Increase Shoulder Height Setting
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
11
Solving Fit Issues
Armscye Too Large
Fitting Problem:
Wrinkles will increase with this method but the sleeve
will become more comfortable to wear.
Loose diagonal folds form from the mid point of the armscye
up to the neckline in the front and/or from the mid point of
the armscye to the back neckline. The sleeve cap falls off the
shoulder and the armscye is too large. The shoulder seam
slants up from the neck point instead of down.
Fitting Solution:
•
Decrease the Front and/or Back Shoulder Slope
measurements, if available OR Shoulder Height setting.
Sleeve Too Tight Across Bicep
Armscye Too Large
Increase Armhole Depth
Decrease Shoulder Height Setting
Sleeve Too Tight Across Bicep
Fitting Problem:
Decrease Sleeve Cap Height
Tight horizontal wrinkles form across the sleeve. WARNING:
It is possible when increasing the cap height setting to make
the bicep width smaller than the bicep measurement.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Solutions will vary depending upon the sleeve chosen.
Increase the Bicep Circumference measurement and/
or increase the Armhole Depth setting to increase the
overall size of the sleeve.
Decrease the Sleeve Cap Height to increase the width
across the sleeve in the bicep area. Decreasing the
sleeve cap height forms a “gusset” under the arm.
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Increase Sleeve Hem Circumference
12
Solving Fit Issues
•
•
Increase the Sleeve Hem Circumference setting to
increase the sleeve below the underarm point and along
the length of the sleeve.
Choose the Straight Underarm Seam sleeve option.
Sleeve Cap Height Setting
Hips
NOTE: For ALL, pant and skirt fittings, check the waistline,
hipline and pants crotch line to be sure they are level.
Curvy High Hip
Fitting Problem:
Armhole and Sleeve Adjustments
Sleeve Cap Appears Too Short
The garment is too tight at the sideseams in the high hip area.
The high hip may curve out abruptly just below the waist.
On pants, diagonal wrinkles may form from the crotch point
upward to the high hip area.
Fitting Solution:
Fitting Problem:
The arm cannot be raised comfortably when wearing the
fitted set-in sleeve.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Sufficient fabric is needed to go over the ball of the upper
arm. If the upper arms are large or fleshy, more fabric
is needed.
Increase the Sleeve Cap Height and the Sleeve Cap Ease
to give more room in the upper arm area for a formal
sleeve.
Decrease the Sleeve Cap Height to increase freedom of
movement for a casual sleeve.
•
•
•
•
Decrease the Hip Depth measurement.
Use a negative crotch break setting to reshape crotch.
The Front Darts may also need to be shortened to release
the fabric over the high hip area.
Use the Hip Shape setting to straighten the pant sideseam
if desired.
Curvy High Hip
Sleeve Cap Too Short
Decrease Hip Depth Setting
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
13
Solving Fit Issues
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
Hip Depth and Dart Length Settings
•
•
Flat High Hip
If the abdomen area is larger than the hip area, use
the Abdomen Circumference as the Hip Circumference
measurement.
Lengthen or shorten the Front Darts to release the fabric
above the largest body bulge.
Increase the Sideseam Movement setting to add more
fabric across the front. Use this setting carefully as it
may cause the back to be too tight.
Decrease the Hip Depth measurement to increase the
width across the front panel.
Raise the Center Front at Waist by choosing a negative
number for the CF/Drop setting.
Use the Slim Cut leg style and Knee Width setting to
reduce the amount of fabric in the thigh area.
Fitting Problem:
The garment is too loose at the sideseams in the high hip
area. The sides of the body slope from the waistline down to
the hipline instead of curve.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Increase the Hip Depth Measurement to flatten the
sideseam at the high hip area.
Lower the sideseam at the waistline using the SS/
Drop setting, if necessary, to reduce the length of the
sideseams in the high hip area.
Increase the Hip Shape setting to flatten the hip curve.
Prominent Abdomen
Positive Sideseam Movement Setting
Flat High Hip
Abdomen
Prominent Abdomen
Fitting Problem:
The garment is too tight across the abdomen and there is not
enough fabric to go over this area creating horizontal folds
just below the waistband. Diagonal wrinkles form outward to
the sideseams. In skirts, the center front may cup up under
the abdomen. In pants, the crotch binds tight up against the
body. Front pleats will tend to pull open and not lie straight.
The sideseams slant forward near the waistline. Elastic waist
pants may pull downward at the center front.
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Center Front at Waist Raised
14
Solving Fit Issues
Negative Sideseam Movement Setting
Pant Adjustments and Settings
Flat Abdomen
Fitting Problem:
There is too much fabric over the abdomen area causing
vertical wrinkles to form below the darts closest to the center
front of the garment. The darts closest to the center front are
creating too much shaping in that area. The hip line at the
center front may droop.
Center Front Waist Drop
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
•
Choose one front waist dart for both skirts and pants.
Increase the Dart Position setting to move the darts
closer to the sideseam.
Decrease the Sideseam Movement setting to move the
sideseam forward giving more fabric across the back.
Use this setting carefully as it may cause the front to be
too tight.
You may need to drop the center front at waist using the
CF/Drop setting to eliminate excess fabric in the front
tummy area.
Shorten or lengthen the Front Darts such that the release
fabric just above the largest body bulge.
Pant Darts
Buttocks
Pants Too Loose Under Buttocks
Fitting Problem:
There is too much fabric between the legs below the crotch
point. Vertical wrinkles form as a result of the excess fabric
and restricts movement.
Flat Abdomen
Pants Too Loose Under Buttocks
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
15
Solving Fit Issues
Fitting Solution:
•
Decrease the Back Crotch Extension setting and possibly
the Front Crotch Extension setting if excess fabric appears
between the legs in the front.
Prominent Buttocks
Fitting Problem:
•
There is not enough fabric to go over the buttocks.
Diagonal wrinkles form outward to the sideseams. In
skirts, the front may be pulled enough to cup under the
abdomen. In pants, the fabric forms diagonal wrinkles
across the buttocks and in the legs below the buttocks.
The sideseams slant backward near the waistline.
Fitting Solution:
•
Decrease Back Crotch Extension Setting
Drooped Buttocks
Fitting Problem:
Horizontal wrinkles form below the buttocks.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Use the Round Back Crotch.
The back crotch curve can be dropped below the crotch
depth using the Crotch Shape Tool to scoop it slightly.
For less fabric, use the slim cut leg. Raise the knee depth
slightly.
Drooped Buttocks
•
•
•
•
•
The Hip Circumference measurement needs to be taken
at the largest circumference of the body below the
waist. Increase the Hip Circumference measurement, if
necessary.
Lengthen or shorten the back darts to release the fabric
above the largest body bulge.
Increase the Sideseam Movement setting to move the
sideseam forward adding more fabric across the back.
Use this setting carefully as it may cause the front to be
too tight.
Decrease the Hip Depth measurement to increase the
width across the back panel.
Raise the Center Back at Waist by choosing a negative
number for the CB/Drop setting or possibly use the Wild
Cut setting to increase the crotch length in the back.
Use the Slim Cut leg style and the Knee Width setting to
reduce the of fabric in the thigh area.
Prominent Buttocks
Negative Sideseam Movement Setting
Round and Flat Crotch Curves
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
16
Solving Fit Issues
•
•
Use the Slim Cut Leg pant leg style and the Knee Width
setting to control the amount fabric in the thigh area.
Decrease the Sideseam Movement setting to move the
sideseam backward decreasing the amount of fabric
across the back. Use this setting carefully as it may
cause the front to be too loose.
Decrease Hip Depth Setting
Flat Buttocks
Center Back at Waist Raised
Position of 1st Back Dart Closest to Center Back
Wild Cut
Flat Buttocks
Fitting Problem:
The garment is loose under the buttocks and there is too much
fabric area causing vertical wrinkles to form below the darts.
In pants, loose vertical folds appear from the sideseams and
inseams toward the crease line of the pant legs. The darts
closest to the center back are creating too much shaping in
that area. The hip line at the center back may droop.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
Choose one Back Waist Dart for both skirts and pants.
Increase the Dart Position setting to move the darts
closer to the sideseam.
You may need to drop the center back at waist using the
CB/Drop setting to eliminate excess fabric in the upper
back area above the buttocks.
Check the back dart length. Shorten or lengthen such that
they release fabric just above the largest body bulge.
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Center Back at Waist Dropped
Crotch
NOTE: Make sure crotch seam is trimmed and clipped.
Front and Back Crotch Too Short
Fitting Problem:
The fabric pulls into the crotch crevice binding against the
crotch and forming diagonal wrinkles from the crotch point
outward to the hip bones and buttocks. The fabric is loose
above the hipline at the sideseam and just below the back
dart points.
17
Solving Fit Issues
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Increase the Crotch Length measurement and/or Crotch
Ease setting, or the Front Crotch Extension.
You may need to increase the Hip Depth measurement.
Increase the Back Dart Length setting.
Crotch Too Long
Crotch Too Short
Decrease Back Crotch Extension Setting
Increase Front Crotch Extension Setting
Crotch Length Measurement
Pant Ease Settings
Back Crotch Too Tight
Fitting Problem:
Front and Back Crotch Too Long
Fitting Problem:
The crotch seam is too far below the body surface and inhibits
walking. Diagonal wrinkles appear as the leg is moved forward.
A horizontal dart folded out across the front from sideseam to
sideseam indicates there is too much fabric vertically.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
If a horizontal dart can be pinned across the front, measure
the depth of this dart. Multiply by 4 to determine the
amount to decrease the Crotch Length measurement.
For a small adjustment, reduce the crotch ease.
Hip Depth setting may also have to be decreased.
Shorten the back darts, if necessary, so that they release
the fabric just above the largest area of the body.
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
The fitting pants pull into the crevice of the buttocks forming
tight diagonal wrinkles (wedgie) in the back when walking
or sitting. There is not enough fabric to curve under the
buttocks and between the legs to facilitate walking.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
•
Crotch length is not sufficient. Remeasure crotch length
to the level natural waistline and increase crotch length
measurement.
For a minor adjustment, increase the crotch ease.
Add length to the back crotch by increasing the Back
Crotch Extension setting.
You may also need to add length to the front crotch by
increasing the Front Crotch Extension setting if diagonal
wrinkles appear in the front of the pants.
18
Solving Fit Issues
Front Crotch Too Tight
Fitting Problem:
Vertical pull lines appear where the front crotch curve begins
to curve between the legs. The waistline is not at the natural
waist.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Remeasure the crotch length to a level natural waistline.
Increase the crotch length measurement, if necessary.
Use the Round Front Crotch Curve and/or the Crotch
Shape Tool to scoop our or deepen the front crotch
curve.
For a minor adjustment, increase the Front Crotch
Extension setting.
Thighs
Thigh and Leg Too Tight
Back Crotch Too Tight
Increase Back Crotch Extension Setting
Increase Front Crotch Extension Setting
Front Crotch Too Tight
Increase Front Crotch Extension Setting
Crotch Shape Tool
Crotch Extension Settings
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
19
Solving Fit Issues
Fitting Problem:
Horizontal wrinkles form around the thigh area indicating that
there is not enough room in the pants legs for the thighs.
Fitting Solution:
•
•
•
Increase the hip ease setting and/or increase the Front
and Back Crotch Extensions.
Use the Tapered or Straight pant leg styles.
Increase the Hip Shape setting to straighten the sideseams
and add ease through the thigh area.
Crotch Extension Settings
Thigh and Leg Too Loose
Fitting Problem:
Vertical folds form between the legs in the thigh area indicating
too much fabric in the thigh area.
Fitting Solution:
•
Use the Slim Cut pant leg style and the Knee Width
setting to reduce the fabric in the thigh area.
Thigh Too Tight
Thigh Too Loose
Increase Crotch Extensions Setting
Tapered Leg Cut and Straight Leg Cut
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
20
Solving Fit Issues
Tips for Fitting Bras
1. Breasts should not droop or sag inside the bra cups. The
bra should hold the breasts firmly against the chest.
2. The breasts should be held in a somewhat upright and
forward position such that the arms when held at the side do
brush the breast flesh.
3. The breasts should not be squished inside the bra cups
and there should be a slight separation between the breasts.
4. The cup volume should be sufficient to hold the breast
flesh. It should not spill out over the top or sides of the bra
cup.
5. Adequate cup volume and a bra band that fits snugly around
the rib cage are necessary before the fit of the underwire can
be determined.
17. The greatest fabric stretch should run vertically (up
and down) on the pattern piece for the lower bra cup. The
greatest stretch of the fabric should run horizontally (across)
on the pattern piece for the upper bra cup.
18. Larger breasts need firmer, more stable fabrics for the
lower bra cup. Stabiliizers made from non-stretch nylon knit
can be fused to fabrics for the lower cup to provide more
support. Bonded lace and nylon tricot are both good choices
for the lower cup fabrics.
19. Some breast shapes cannot wear bras with underwires. If
the breast flesh extends back under the arm, a non underwire
bra is likely to provide greater comfort.
20. Underwire casings can be sewn to the bra cup seams in
non underwire bras to provide greater support. Wider elastic
can also be used in non underwire bras to increase support.
6. Once the underwire is inserted, it should lie flat against the
chest and around the breasts under the rib cage.
7. The neckline of the bra should fit snugly so as to keep the
wire in place between the breasts.
8. The bra back should fit snugly with no gaping or sagging at
the top of the bra back. It needs to be substantial enough to
pull the wires apart just slightly and behind the breast tissue
at the sideseam.
9. The underwire at the armpit should pull the breasts forward
toward the front of the body and should not poke into the
armpit or the underside of the arm.
10. Wider straps provide greater support and reduce digging
into the shoulders.
11. Larger breasts need the full cup style with the straps
attached closer to the center front of the bra. This will provide
greater support and uplift to the breasts.
12. Larger breasts need a larger, more substantial bra back.
Firmer fabrics should be used.
13. Wider elastic along the lower band will also provide
greater support. The miminum recommended width is 3/8
inch (1 cm). Elastic that is 1/2 to 5/8 inch (1.25 to 1.5 cm)
wide is better for larger bustlines.
14. Straps sewn closer to the sideseams of the bra are better
for push up type bras. They force the breast tissue up and
closer to the front producing “cleavage”.
15. If one breast is larger than the other, create the bra cups
for the larger side. The smaller side can be padded as much
as needed to provide the illusion of even distribution.
16. Choice of fabrics will dramatically change the fit of the
bra. The greater the stretch of the fabric, the greater the
increase in cup volume.
Copyright Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 1995-Present All rights reserved.
Copyright 1995-Present, Wild Ginger Software, Inc., All Rights
Reserved
This publication, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced
in any form, by any method, for any purpose, without the
express written consent of Wild Ginger Software, Inc.
The information in this document is furnished for informational
purposes only, is subject to change without notice, and should
not be construed as a commitment by Wild Ginger Software,
Inc. Wild Ginger Software, Inc. assumes no responsibility
or liability for inaccuracies or errors that may appear in this
document.
Wild Ginger Software, Inc.
1055 Wildlife Trail
Kingston Springs, TN 37082
USA
Customer Service and Technical Support
Telephone (US and Canada): 888-929-9453
Telephone Outside US and Canada: 615-952-3303
E-mail: support@wildginger.com
Web Site: www.wildginger.com
Printed and Manufactured in the United States of America
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