AVRO 504K - Jing models

AVRO 504K - Jing models
Assembly Manual
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 9/5/13
History – Britain’s most produced aircraft of The Great War
Over 8,000 Avro 504 aircraft were produce
starting in July 1913, and by the end of the
war, more 504’s had been built in Britain than
any other aircraft. They were employed in a
variety of missions in the Great War, carrying
out bombing attacks, Zeppelin raids, and naval
reconnaissance. However, its primary mission
was that of pilot training, being used to essentially train nearly every British pilot in WWI. Thus
as the most widely used British trainer of World
War One, the Avro 504 was the equivalent
of the standard US Army Air Service training
machine, the venerable JN-4 Jenny - which an
estimated 95% of all US trainees flew.
The Avro 504 was the first aircraft to strafe
troops, and it achieved the unenviable distinction of being the first English aircraft shot down
in combat when No. 5 Squadron’s Lt. V. Waterfall and his observer, Lt CGG Bayly, were
downed by infantry fire over Belgium on 22
August 1914.
Among the unique innovations of the Avro 504
were: the large skid between the wheels which
protected the propeller in the event of a tail high
landing –and it also prevented tipping over; the
Gosport speaking tube, which enabled the instructor to communicate with his student; and a
universal engine mount that allowed the accommodation of a wide number of rotary engines.
The subject of my kit, the K model, was introduced in 1917 - it was the most numerous
model, with 6,350 being produced. This robust,
maneuverable, and light wing loaded aircraft
was especially suitable for training pilots as it
was powered by a rotary engine that students
would likely fly in combat. The Americans were
so impressed with this model that they ordered
52 for the American Expeditionary Force.
Specifications of the Avro 504K:
•Wingspan: 36 feet
•Length: 29 ft 5 in
•Height: 10 ft 5 in
•Wing area: 330 sq ft
•Weight: 1,230 lb. empty; 1,829 lb. maximum
•Engine: 110hp Le Rhône rotary
•Absolute Ceiling: 16,000 feet
•Max Speed: 95 mph
•Max Endurance: 4.25 hours
•Armament (single seat version): Lewis machine gun
Postwar Service
After the war, many of the 3,000 surplus 504s
were used as barnstorming and towing machines in the 1920s, being noted for their easy
handling and excellent maneuverability.
The aircraft continued to be produced in Great
Britain as a trainer. Additionally, it was exported
to several foreign militaries, with licensed production taking place in Denmark, Belgium,
Canada and Japan. Copies were made in Russia and China.
The Avro 504K was selected as the standard
trainer for the Canadian Air Force in 1920, and
remained in service there until 1928. Additionally, the Swedish Naval Aviation used five Avro
504Ks as trainers on frozen seas.
References include:
•The Aerodrome
•The History Learning Site
History compiled by Gene Korotky (Speedy01),
retired USAF pilot.
Special thanks (in alphabetical order)
Gene Korotky - Speedy01 (beta testing, manual review)
Paul Gibson (refreshing music)
Paul Stamison - Newbeflyer a.k.a.Crazy Canuck (support and encouragement)
Pete Schumann - Mtflyr (beta testing, flight testing)
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
This kit requires following parts:
Summary of compatible parts from
Parkzone RTF/BNF products:
Hobbyzone champ:
Receiver, motor/gearbox, propeller,
Receiver for Vapor, Champ, J-3 Cub
Parkzone UM P-51 (Non AS3X version):
Receiver*, motor/gearbox, propeller
8.5mm Motor/gear box
Parkzone UM T-28:
Receiver*, motor/gearbox, propeller
Parkzone UM F4U:
Receiver*, motor/gearbox, battery
130x70 Propeller
Parkzone Sukhoi XP:
Receiver*, motor/gearbox, Propeller,
Parkzone UM P-51,T-28, Sukhoi XP
E-flite 4-site,
Hobbyzone Champ.
150mah-160mah Lipo Battery
E-flite 150mah (4.3g)
Parkzone Night Vapor/Vapor/ Ember 2/J3 Cub:
Eflite 4-site:
Receiver*, motor, battery
*The AR6400 requires transmitter
programming to allow the rudder to
be controlled by the aileron stick. You
will need a transmitter with mixing
capability such as the DX6i, DX7, or
DX8. The DX5e or stock transmitters
that come with HobbyZone or
ParkZone RTF products are not
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
Required Tools & Glues
Foam Safe contact glue
UHU por (UHU creative)
Beacon Foam-Tac
In general, the above glues are best
for Foam to Foam bonding or Foam to
styrene bonding.
During the development process No
Foam Safe CA was used and was not
Hobby knife
All the kit parts are laser cut , therefore
no cutting will be necessary but you will
need a hobby knife to cut parts loose
from the carrier sheet.
Long nose pliers or hemostat:
Used when mounting propellers.
Used when cutting the gear box flange
and cutting out Vacuum-formed parts.
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
Before you start
Please pay attention to the following building process. It is very
important to understand each step and the overall sequence. In this
regard, I recommend reading this manual thoroughly and carefully
studying the accompanying photographs.
This is a laser cut kit that has been thoroughly tested and engineered
for precise fit. Cutting and sanding for better fit is not required nor
recommended, If you start modifying parts you may have more
trouble later on in the building process.
If any parts are absolutely impossible to fit, then I recommend looking
at the manual photos carefully once again and using the Zoom button
in your PDF viewer.
Still having problem?
Send me an email to jinwoochoe@hotmail.com!
We can work this out.
Notes on kit foam
All 1mm foam sheets have some curvature built in. That property is
not a defect and in fact was accomodated when the kit was designed.
The most affected parts are main wing sheets but those parts are laid
out on the sheets to achieve a subtle symmetrical curvature in the
At first that curvature may look like a severe distortion but after
the CF rods are glued in place and the wings are attached to the
fuselage, all will straighten out. Wing tips will be raised up slightly but
that is part of ‘wash out’ to prevent tip stalling.
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
Using the stencil
There are two ways to use enclosed
Spray paints
Spraying method is rather trickier then
the marker tracing method that will be
explained later but If use the stencils with
patience and a little bit of practice, you
will get more satisfying results.
The most important step in this method is
to test the paint on scrap depron to check
compatibility of the paint and Depron
The following are some advertised foam
safe spray cans in the US. I haven’t
tested all the colors and all the formulas
mentioned below, so testing prior to actual painting is still recommended as some
propellants can melt the foam.
Trickiest part of this method is knowing
how much paint is “good enough” for the
desired result.
Too much spraying will clog openings in
the stencil and eventually ruin the parts.
Too little will result in faint unrecognizable lines, making your hard work barely
It’s best to practice on pieces of scrap
material and while doing so, try to make
each spray pass consistent. You don’t
want to end up the left wing darker than
the right wings, for example.
Of course you may make some mistake.
Accordingly, It is good to have some form
of solvent that cleans up paints when
something goes wrong. Check each paint
for its recommended thinner / cleaner.
The following is the recommended procedure for using stencils for spray painting.
a. Krylon ‘Short cuts’
Found in the Walmart craft section or
local craft stores. This paint is not a
typical lacquer based formula, and is
safe on foam. If you make a mistake,
you can simply wipe the paint off with
paint thinner and start over.
b. Testors spray can
Your local hobby shop will be the best
source for this. There is a wide selection of colors but it is pricier then Krylon
c. Acrylic based spray cans
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
1. Temporarily tape parts to stencils.
Painter’s low tack masking tape is recommended. Again, test your tape on a
scrap piece to check if it easily peels off
from the foam pieces, rather than damaging the foam surface.
4. Detach spray painted parts and tape
the remaining parts to the opposite side
of the stencil.
2. Flip the stencils and tape them securely to a flat board.
5. Securely attach the stencil to a flat
board and spray.
Using stencil as a template.
3. Using an airbrush or spray can, spraypaint over the stencil. Do not spray too
close to the stencil, and wait until the
paint completely dry before removing the
parts from the stencil.
Oil based ultra fine permanent markers
(Sharpie in US) are perfect for this method. Walmart and local craft store carry
a variety of colors. Refer to the spraying
method above for recommended usage.
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
My personal guide on painting micro
model airplanes.
I have seen many models ruined by a
heavy paint job. I also had the unfortunate experience of ruining my first
scratch built model.
For small slow flying models like the Avro
504K, a light weight paint job is very
important and can be critical to flight success. I have seen models built with the
same material and same glue, but the
final weight difference ended up being
more than 10 grams. Please don’t expect that your plane would fly same with
10 extra grams heavier than the recommend weight.
The following is tutorial on light weightpaint job using brush. An airbrush may
give you lighter and better looking finish
but not everyone has airbrush.
weight. My complaint is that the selections of their greens is too vibrant. In
this regard, I usually add some brown or
black to tone this down. For this guide I
used a mix of Old Ivy and Brown Oxide.
I add a little bit of plain tap water to thin
down the paint.
First, apply simulated ribs using provided
stencil. Wing shown above is traced with
Ultra fine Sharpie.
This guide is not focused on painting to
achieve an ultra beautiful model. Rather,
I am trying to convey ideas on how to
achieve a of light weight paint job.
To achieve a light paint job, don’t try to
achieve solid opaque finish. You will end
up applying coat after coat of heavy paint
with disappointing results.
My approach here is more like staining
the foam rather painting it - or you can
describe it as water color painting rather
than oil painting.
The paint of my choice is Plaid Apple
Barrel paint. This acrylic paint is relatively
cheap (under $1 in Walmart) and light
Apply thin coat of paint using wide brush.
I prefer my brush strokes to be parallel to
the direction of ribs
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
The picture above shows the finished
first coat. Wait until the first coat is completely dry before applying your second
coat (a hair dryer shortens the waiting
Since, acrylic paint does not dissolved
with water when it is completely dried,
your second coat will be easier.
Note that an Unpainted canvas color
may not require a second coat.
Above shows the finished second coat.
If the first coat has not dried completely,
you may experience the first coat peeling off as you brush on the second coat.
That’s a very hard to fix disaster.
Sometimes I add extra strokes where a
darker shade is needed.
I stop at this point and call this paint job
Don’t forget to save some paint for touch
up after assembly. You will need it.
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14
1.Fuselage frame construction
2. Fuselage skin preparation
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 10
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 11
3. Attaching Fuselage skin to frame
Fuselage skin (A1) extends beyond bottom edge of frame (D4) by 1mm.
Bottom skin (A2) fits between inside of (A1)
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 12
4.Tail surface assembly
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 13
Glue two Vertical stab pieces, sandwiching hinge between two pieces.
5. Motor mount assembly
6. Fuselage bottom assembly
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 14
Notice Two different length of sides.
Short side is engineered to clear RX unit.
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 15
7. Cabane strut and wing mid-section
(REVISED 10/10/13)
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 16
8. Main wing and wing strut
Apply contact cement and wait 3 minutes
before folding the foam
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 17
Prime CF rod spar with lighter color before gluing
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 18
Put your wing assembly aside for now.
9. Receiver and control system installation
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 19
Glue Receiver unit to the side of frame
Refer to cross sections on page 9.
Attaching 2mm depron backer (D15)
behind receiver may needed to prevent
gears from binding with other parts
Dry fit fuselage bottom and check servo
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 20
10. Inserting gearbox into motor
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 21
12. Attaching wing assembly and
11. Attaching fuselage bottom
After gluing the wing assembly, see following page for adjustments that may
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 22
13. Fake engine assembly
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 24
15. Skid assembly
14. Attaching front cover and
engine access panel
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 25
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 26
16. Wind shield and miscellaneous
detail parts
17. Wheel assembly
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 27
18. Wing fuel tank assembly
19.Tail skid assembly
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 28
21. Installing propeller
22. Flying
20. Wing tip skid
Check your CG referring diagram below.
The Avro 504K is light airplane with a lot
of wing area making it a poor performer
in gusty situations. I recommend flying
early in the morning or just before sunset.
Don’t try to maiden it in a one basket ball
court size gym. It certainly is flyable in
the small area but I recommend maidening in a large grass field to get a feel of
its flying characteristics.
If your Avro banks in one direction when
rudder is centered, adjust your wing tips
like the opposite aileron control.
Avro 504K Laser Cut Kit manual 12/19/14 29
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