Congratulations on your purchase of a Steve`s LEDs Typhon LED

Congratulations on your purchase of a Steve`s LEDs Typhon LED
Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Congratulations on your purchase of a Steve’s LEDs Typhon LED Controller!
Preface
This item assumes you have a basic knowledge of electronics, such as never touching a live electrical circuit under any
circumstances whatsoever, understanding polarity, wiring in series and parallel, electrical safety and handling, and the
use of basic handheld tools. Consider researching the internet or asking a friend if you are unfamiliar with these
terms. Please read all of the installation related documents such as the Terms and Conditions, Driver Installation
guide, and the LED kit installation guide before proceeding with building your kit and installing your controller. You
are ultimately responsible for proper and safe installation. By proceeding with the installation, you are accepting full
responsibility of the safe and proper installation of your LED retrofit system. Remember that your biggest resources
are your friends that are familiar with electronic device installation. Steve’s LEDs is available for support during
normal business hours.
Disclaimer Notice
Please read the entire manual before using the Typhon LED Controller. By using the Typhon LED Controller, you agree
that Steve’s LEDs will not be held responsible for any injury and damage as a result of using the Typhon LED
Controller.
Although the information and recommendations in this manual are presented in good faith and believed to be
correct, Steve’s LEDs makes no representations or warranties as to the completeness or accuracy of the information.
Information is supplied upon the condition that the persons receiving it will make their own determination as to its
suitability for their purposes prior to use. In no event will Steve’s LEDs be responsible for damages of any nature
whatsoever resulting from the use of or reliance upon information from this manual or the products to which the
information refers. Steve’s LEDs does not warrant the accuracy or timeliness of the materials in this manual and has
no liability for any errors or omissions in the materials.
WARNING: This product contains lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause neurological damage,
cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
LEAD IS GOOD!!! We use leaded solder because it requires a relatively low temperature to melt. The lower the
temperature we can keep our electronics and LEDs, the longer they last. We have heard of many people getting very
poor lifespan out of LEDs that have been soldered with lead-free solder (almost double the melting temperature of
lead solder). Once installed, you will not be handling your retrofit kit regularly, so it is not a health risk for you to
handle during day-to-day usage. Frankly, if I see an LED related product that is soldered with lead free solder, I just
don’t buy it because chances are that it will have reduced lifespan.
We highly recommend that you install your Typhon in an electrically insulating enclosure, such as our high quality
laser cut Typhon Enclosure. This protects your Typhon and allows it to be mounted virtually anywhere, very
professional looking!
TYPHON
-Use
The Typhon LED controller is an open sourced controller, and it provides 4 independently accessible and controllable
output channels. It allows for control of both 5V PWM (such as all Steve’s LEDs Digital Drivers) and 10V PWM based
LED drivers. You can control each of the 4 channels by designating each channels “Start” and “End” lighting times,
duration of sunrise/sunrise (called “Fade”), and you can set the maximum light intensity level.
-Compatibility
Steve’s LEDs Digital Drivers
The Single, The Double, The Triple, The Quad
Meanwell LED Drivers
ELN-30-XXP, ELN-60-XXP (such as ELN-60-48P)
HLN-40H-XXB, HLN-60H-XXB, HLN-80H-XXB, LDD-XXXH
LuxDrive™ 3021 BuckPuck (Requires Inverted PWM setting set to “YES”)
3021-D-E-XXXXmA
CONNECTIONS
PWM output – The top row is negative, and the bottom row is positive. Each channel connectors are vertical, channel
1 positive is underneath the channel 2 negative.
See Figure 1 for PWM Outputs. See Figure 2 for power input.
Note: For Steve’s LEDs Digital Drivers, you will be able to wire multiple drivers to each Typhon Channel. The easiest
way to accomplish this is to wire all of the PWM Negative wires together, and connect to a single negative wire going
to the “Comm” (DC Ground) port on the main power supply. You can then connect multiple wires to the single
Typhon positive wire, and wire those to Digital Driver port #2. (Remember to remove Steve’s LEDs Digital Driver
jumper wire that connects driver port #2 to port #4. Leave driver port #4 empty)
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
FTDI Port for uploading new programs
5V PWM Outputs
DC 12V Input
10V PWM Outputs
Menu Navigation Buttons
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
FIGURE 1.
- Negative
- Positive
1 2 3 4
10V PWM
1 2 3 4
5V PWM
Figure 2.
LCD Contrast
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12V DC input (use
included wall plug)
Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Programming
Programming the Typhon is simple, using only the 4 buttons. Below is a tree diagram, showing how to
navigate the software options and cycle through the menu. The buttons are click-in press buttons, they are
not directional, … a press in any direction will only count as a single press.
-Buttons
o
M = Menu – Moves through the available settings (Setting time, setting light duration, etc)
o
S = Select – Selects the option you want to modify
o
+
– Changes the value or setting up
o
– Changes the value or setting
- Timer (Use this for the automatic timer)
- All Channels ON (manually turn lights on 100%)
- All Channels OFF (manually turn lights of to 0%)
- Custom [intensity] (set all channels to a certain intensity)
Setting Mode >
Home >
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LED1 Start
LED1 End
LED1 Fade
LED1 Min
LED 1 Max
> Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only)
> Set End (lights off) time (24H format only)
> Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset
>Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0)
> Set Max Level (maximum light intensity)
LED2 Start
LED2 End
LED2 Fade
LED2 Min
LED2 Max
> Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only)
> Set End (lights off) time (24H format only)
> Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset
>Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0)
> Set Max Level (maximum light intensity)
LED3 Start
LED3 End
LED3 Fade
LED3 Min
LED3 Max
> Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only)
> Set End (lights off) time (24H format only)
> Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset
>Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0)
> Set Max Level (maximum light intensity)
LED4 Start
LED4 End
LED4 Fade
LED3 Min
LED4 Max
> Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only)
> Set End (lights off) time (24H format only)
> Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset
>Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0)
> Set Max Level (maximum light intensity)
Set Time : Hours
Set Time: Minutes
> Set the current hour (24H format only)
> Set the current minute
PWM Inverted >
> Yes
> No (Select “No” if using Steve’s LEDs Digital Drivers)
Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Home Screen
The home screen displays current time on the top, and each of the 4 channels respective channel’s current
intensity setting in percentage of intensity. A setting of “0” indicates the lights are off. A setting of “100”
indicates the lights are on 100%. Any setting between 0% and 100% (ex. 78%) indicates that the lights are
dimmed to that particular level. Please note: The percentage dimmed is not a percentage of total light
output, it is a percentage of electrical current going to the LEDs.
Troubleshooting
1) The LCD does not turn blue when plugged in.
- Ensure the power supply is plugged into the wall securely, or try a different outlet.
- Twist the input power jack, it should spin freely
Steve’s LEDs Digital Driver Wiring
The Typhon can be wired several ways. You can have each channel control a driver individually, or have
each channel control a group of drivers (ideal for larger tanks). The bridge wire between Steve’s LEDs V6
driver pins #2 and #4 must be completely removed when using a Typhon, See Figure 3.A and Figure 3.B.
Steve’s LEDs V7 Drivers do not have a jumper wire, but need to have both DIP switches turned OFF, See
Figure 3.C and Figure 3.D. Not doing so could damage the Typhon. We recommend a driver removal tool
for quick bridge removal. See Figure 3.A for improper bridge removal and Figure 3.B for proper bridge wire
removal.
Typhon Extension Cable
For the fastest installation of your Typhon, we highly recommend the Typhon Extension Cable. The solder
has already been completed, and the cable is fully tested, saving you from the headache of soldering your
own extensions. For Steve’s LEDs Digital Drivers, simply plug the extension cable into your Typhon as in the
photo shown below.
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Should You Leave The Dimmer Pots Intact?
We highly recommend that you leave the dimmer pots/knobs plugged in while using an aquarium
controller. You can replace the dimmer with a solid jumper wire, however, remember that every time you
introduce a new coral to your aquarium, you will need to slowly acclimate it every 3 days over the course of
6 weeks to ensure you don’t bleach it. It is easier to significantly easier to increase the brightness every 3
days using the dimmer pot, than to reprogram your aquarium controller every 3 days. PWM will allow
dimming throughout the entire range that you set using the dimmer pots.
Addendum Reference:
- See Figure 3.A and Figure 3.B - Improper and proper proper bridge wire removal.
- See Figure 4 – Single driver, controlled by Typhon Channel 1.
- See Figure 5 – 2x drivers (a Single and a Triple) individually, each controlled by channels 1 & 2 respectively
- See Figure 6 – 2x drivers as a group, controlled by Typhon Channel 1.
- See Figure 7 – Biocube 14 and NanoCube 12
- See Figure 8 – Biocube 29 V3.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V3.0
-See Figure 8.A – Biocube 29 V4.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V4.0
- See Figure 9 – Red Sea Max 250 V3.0
- See Figure 9 – Red Sea Max 250 V4.0
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 3.A
Bridge wire intact, NOT READY for Typhon!
Figure 3.B
Bridge removed, READY for Typhon!
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 3.C - DIP SWITCH NOT READY FOR TYPHON – when the white lever is closest to the text “ON CTS,”
switch is ON.
Switches are on, NOT READY for Typhon!
Figure 3.D – DIP SWITCH IS READY FOR TYPHON – when the white lever is furthest from “ON CTS”, switch is
OFF.
Switches OFF, READY for Typhon!
Please note: Only one PWM- is required per main power supply
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 4.
To main 24V power supply
Figure 5.
To main 24V power supply
Figure 6.
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
To main 24V power supply
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 7 – Biocube 14 and Nanocube 12
These wires go to LED arrays
If you are using the Extension, the green wires are not used.
Main LED Heatsink
Typhon
fan
Driver #1
Wiring=
Port #1 –
Black
Port #3 Red
Driver #2
Wiring=
Port #1 –
Black
Port #3 Red
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 8 – Biocube 29 V3.0 and
Red Sea Max 130D V3.0
If you are using the Extension,
the green wires are not used.
Typhon
Main LED Heatsink
fan
Driver #1
Wiring=
Port #1 – Black
Port #3 - Red
Driver #2
Wiring=
Port #1 – Black
Port #3 - Red
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 8.A – (Systems purchased after 4/1/2014) Biocube 29 V4.0, Biocube 14 V4.0, NanoCube 12 V4.0, Nanocube 28 V4.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V4.0
If you are using the Extension, the green wires are not used.
Typhon
Driver Wiring=
G – Black
DIM1 – Red
DIM2 - Yellow
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 9 - Red Sea Max 250 V3.0If you are using the Extension,
the green wires are not used.
Typhon
fan
Driver #1
Wiring=
Port #1 – Black
Port #3 - Red
Driver #2
Wiring=
Port #1 – Black
Port #3 - Red
These are to
channels 3&4, and
will be wired to the
drivers on the other
identically wired
heatsink on driver
ports #2, identical to
above Figure 9.
If you ordered 95% Upgrade, you will use a white extension cable to connect power supply to LED drivers.
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 10 - Red Sea Max 250 V4.0
Typhon
Driver Wiring=
G – Black
DIM1 – Red
DIM2 - Yellow
These are to
channels 3&4, and
will be wired to the
drivers on the other
identically wired
heatsink on driver
ports DIM1 and
DIM2, identical to
above Figure 10.
Steps for installing the Typhon Extension Cable
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 11. Red Sea Max S-500 and Red Sea Max S-650
Duplicate this for the second heatsinks – it has IDENTICAL wiring.
Heatsink #1
-Driver #1
G – Black
DIM – Red
-Driver #2
G – Green
DIM – Yellow
Heatsink #2
-Driver #1
G – Black
DIM – Red
-Driver #2
G – Green
DIM – Yellow
NOTE – Only Typhon Controller related wiring is shown, all other wiring is hidden for clarity.
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
This entire process should take about 1 minute, it is not complex. If you are finding that it is taking you longer to install the Typhon, you could be doing
something wrong. Please feel free to email us at TechSupport@StevesLEDs.com if you need any assistance at any time.
1) Verify that the LED system is working properly without using the Typhon. Check to make sure dimmer knobs function.
2) Unplug power to the system
3) Use only solid core wire (single strand) for plugging into the LED driver, or, use multi-strand wire that has been properly tinned/soldered
into a single strand.
4) Remove the jumper bridge wire on all drivers, see page 8 of this document, all Steve’s Digital Dimming drivers that are version 6.0
a. On Steve’s Digital Dimming drivers that are 7.0 or higher, ensure the small brown DIP switches are both turned “OFF.” – See page 9
of this document to verify
5) Leave dimmer knob intact and plugged in, do not unplug it, or anything else. If you wish to not use the dimmer knob, turn it all the way up
and leave it inside the hood, securing it with zipties, twist ties, Velcro, tape, hot glue, etc. It may be replaced with a wire bridge between
the two holes where the dimmer knob was plugged in.
6) Only 1 red OR yellow wire goes to each DIM port on the LED driver. It does not matter if you use red or yellow, so long as you use only one.
7) You need to ground the Typhon to the main power supply using 1 of the black wires. You may also need to ensure all V- and COM ports on
the drivers are tied/connected together to ensure the system has a common ground.
8) Green wires are not used in LED systems that have 1 or 2 LED drivers total. Green wires are only used in LED systems with 3 or more LED
drivers and provide the same function as the black wire, it is PWM – negative-.
9) Only 1 black wire will be used per LED driver, no more, no less.
10) NEVER INSERT MORE THAN 1 WIRE INTO A SINGLE DRIVER PORT – THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD.
11) If any wires coming off of the Typhon are not used, individually tape them off. If you allow the unused wires to touch, they will create a
short circuit and may permanently damage the Typhon Controller.
12) Turn system on, and program the Typhon accordingly
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Typhon LED Controller Installation Guide - Updated 2/9/2015
Figure 12. For splicing a wire using a crimp type telephone splice (shown green in photo) to wire multiple drivers into a single common ground. This
same technique can be used to splice multiple drivers into a single dimming channel to allow one channel to control multiple LED drivers.
To Other LED Drivers
This is the existing black wire, goes to LED extension
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