Sbach 342 50cc - Flying Giants

Sbach 342 50cc - Flying Giants
Sbach 342 50cc
Australian Assembly suggestions
This is a quote from instructions supplied with an aeroplane kit from a different
Chinese supplier.
“Before the assembly please the careful reading instruction booklet, he can give you
the full detail instruction if you are the first contact airplane model public figure,
should assemble under experienced correct instruction!”
Now to the serious bit.
This plane is NOT a toy.
If you have never built an R/C plane before I would advise that you build a few
smaller kits before you build this one.
You are responsible for the assembly of this model and its safe operation.
If you’re really into R/C planes, you will love this one.
The following suggestions are NOT the manufacturer’s instructions;
they can be found in the kit.
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Rudder Assembly
During the rudder assembly you will find no predrilled holes to place the tail wheel.
This is what I did.
•
Drill 3mm holes in the carbon fibre wheel assembly bracket.
•
Mark those holes on the fuselage; make sure the holes are within the limits of
the timber inside the fuselage.
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•
Drill 3.5mm holes in the fuselage and locate blind nuts through the access
panel in the side.
•
Something to note from experienced builders of this and other models; hinge
location strength is important as it has extra load on the bottom hinge from
the tail wheel.
It may be an advantage to re-enforce this area. I used a bit of 20mm scrap
balsa; others have used 12mm.
Cut a 100mm piece and Epoxy it inside against the rudder support beam.
Drill a 4mm hole for the pin-hinge.
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•
Glue the pin-hinges into the rudder or the fin using epoxy, use heaps as the
pin-hinge holes are pre drilled and mine were loose fitting.
Ensure you use a bit of Vaseline in the hinge to stop excess glue from sticking
or restricting the hinge.
•
Epoxy the other side and glue together.
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•
Remove any excess glue after glue starts to set.
( before it cures or its very difficult to remove )
•
Where do you locate the Tail Wheel control pin?
I like to control the tail wheel from as far back as possible with the most flex
available in the control rod, this results in the least amount of stress on the
rudder servo whilst taxying.
I drilled a 4mm hole in one of the ply washers provided and the bottom of the
rudder; removed a small amount of covering from the bottom edge of the
rudder and glued it 150mm from the leading edge. I also used a longer piece
of 2mm carbon fibre rod.
If you use the steel rod provided, place the washer at 110mm.
The reason for the washer or any other piece of ply is because the bottom
edge of the rudder is not as thick as the pin is long, so it adds more strength.
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•
Set out the rudder control system
•
Location of the rudder horn.
I placed the control horn 5mm in and 15mm up from the bottom leading edge
of the rudder.
Place a straight edge at the top and the bottom of the control wire slots
extending to the rudder, this will provide the correct height. It can be a couple
of mm lower but not above the top line of the control wire slot.
Place the control horn rod as far forward on the rudder as possible, by
locating the adjusting washer on the edge of the leading edge chamfer.
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•
Locate the rudder servo; you may want to turn the servo the other way.
•
Cut out the rudder cable slot
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•
How to loop wire on horn attachments so they don’t slip or come undone.
Thread a ferrule onto the wire at one end down about 50mm and loop it back
on itself. ( do not pull it tight yet )
Take the end of wire and place it through the horn and thread it back down
the ferrule. I left a 20mm loop.
Loop it back and up the ferrule again. It should look like this.
Details Appendix A
•
Now you can crimp the ferrule, I just used small wire cutters. Ensure you
don’t squeeze too hard or cut the looped wire.
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•
Connect the horn and adjuster to servo arm, use the inside holes.
I connected the wires one on top and one on the bottom; this prevents the
wires rubbing together.
•
Make sure the wires cross, and then exit slots in bottom rear of fuselage.
I also used a small piece of heat shrink at the location where the wires crossed
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•
Tape the rudder in centre position and connect the wires to rudder horn.
Screw the horn connectors all the way in on the rudder horn.
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Fitting the Undercarriage
•
I reinforced this area by gluing in a slab of 4mm ply with epoxy.
•
Place a piece of tape over the locating blind nuts and cut out their location
make the tape level with the top of the axle cut out.
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•
Fit the axle stubs and ensure that the spats fit over the axle correctly
Transfer the tape to the undercarriage and drill locating holes.
•
Locate the wheel by securing collets both sides.
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•
Locate the wheel by securing collets both sides.
•
Secure spat
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Fitting the Motor
•
I got a PTE50i for this plane. Note: - this plane is designed for rear carbie and
a canister muffler.
•
Locating the motor, the supplied template is not quite correct.
The bottom is the Top and the holes are 5mm too low.
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•
Create a new template; you can do this by overlaying the template that comes
with the motor and the supplied one.
This issue exists with PTE50i, DL50, DA50 and GP50i
•
Transfer the location holes to the fire wall
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•
Drill 5mm holes
•
Note that the 5mm mount holes are against the reinforcing gusset.
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•
You will need to place 25mm washers inside the fire wall to hold the motor
secure, you will need to bend them 45 degrees to fit.
•
Correctly bent they will fit against the fire wall and gusset.
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•
Sometimes during manufacture gaps will appear at joints, fill them with Epoxy
•
I also reinforced the joint with 3mm quad spar.
I also added 5mm spars at the rear of the engine box, but that created fitting
problems when mounting the Cowl.
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•
When I mounted the motor it was correctly centred.
•
The motor mount was 3mm too short.
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•
The timber motor mount spacers are 2mm so I got 3mm aluminium ones.
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•
Next you need to construct a servo box for the throttle and choke.
•
None of this is supplied you will have to build it to your own requirements.
The inside forward servo is the choke and the rear outside servo is the
Throttle.
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•
I mounted the servo box with screws as you need to take it out to get at the
motor mount bolts.
•
Mount servos
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•
Connect 4/40 ball links
•
Connection of the links to the motor are not critical for the choke, however
you need as much servo movement as possible on the throttle to ensure
smooth operation. This can be achieved buy using a JR aluminium servo arm,
the screw in the motor throttle is a 4/40 thread. Remove the throttle arm from
the carbie and place it against the servo arm in a vice, make sure the hole on
the servo arm and the throttle arm are aligned, drill two, 3mm holes and use
4/40 bolts and lock nuts.
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•
The end result will give you a nice close fit.
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•
Now to fit the muffler; you can use the muffler supplied with the motor you
have chosen.
•
I chose to install the Canister muffler, there were two reasons for this: 1- I just
hate to cut up a perfect cowl, 2: I was told that the canister muffler is reported
to allow the motor to perform substantially better up to 500RPM increase.
Both good reasons for me. This is the canister muffler I got.
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•
The canister fits snugly into the apertures in the lower section of the fuselage.
You will need some 4mm silicon fuel line to line the apertures to support the
canister and protect the fuselage from heat. Cut small lengths and glue them in
the slots.
•
Cut a length of silicon tube to fit around the front apertures, split the tube the
full length, remember to split the outside of the natural curve to make it easier
to glue into place. You can use silicon, I use contact cement.
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•
Now this is important, aluminium and silicon stick together. If you try to
install the canister without lubrication on it you will remove the support tubes.
I used a tiny bit of Vaseline.
•
Just slide the canister in, it is a snug fit. Note: - You cannot fit the canister
with the motor mounted.
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•
Install the header pipe and bend it to the correct shape. You will need to cut a
bit off the end to fit, I cut off 55mm.
•
Remove the canister and fit the silicon joining tube. It is very tight; you will
need a lubricant, guess what I used. (Vaseline) It should fit like this.
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•
The last bit, but the most important, how to let the heat out. There is a section
of cover to be removed from the fuselage behind the rudder servo.
•
You will now need to cut a small section from the bottom of the cowl.
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•
Because I reinforced the motor box I had to cut out a section of the cowl
locating former. This is normally not necessary.
•
As I used only 3mm and 5mm allen key bolts on this model I also needed to
trim the edge of the holes in the canopy.
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Assembling the tail plane
•
This kit is supplied with aluminium servo extensions. You will need to buy
2mm Phillips bolts 6mm long and nuts to suit. Bolt extensions to your servo
arms.
•
Fit the servos into the tail plane.
Note: - the lead goes to the leading edge.
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•
Fitting the aluminium servo extension arms you will find that they rub on the
balsa. This causes extra load on the servo and will wear a hole in the tail plane.
•
You can file the aluminium arms to fit. I had some fibre glass arms from a
previous model which I used instead.
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•
I still had to file some off to fit. Worked out only 4gms
•
Aluminium arms are 7gms
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•
This is the elevator assembly.
•
Next you need to position the elevator horn.
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•
Connect the servo arm and draw a straight line from the tail plane to the
elevator in line with the control horn and transfer that line to both sides of the
elevator. Place the adjusting washer at the leading edge and mark the position
for the control horn.
•
Or simply measure 65mm from the inside leading edge.
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•
Install the control horn.
•
Next install the pin hinges as you did with the Rudder, remember to use grease
of some sort so you don’t stick the hinges.
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•
Use lots of Epoxy.
•
Join the tail plane and the elevator
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Assembling the Wings
• Locate the servos. I installed them facing forward as the instructions indicated,
but turned them around to maximise the use of thread on the 4/40 rod.
Assemble the wing in the same fashion as the tail plane to locate the position
of the aileron control horn.
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• Or you can simply measure 280mm from the inside leading edge.
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Installing the Fuel Tank
• The fuel bung and bits supplied are fine to use and ok with petrol.
• I use a Sullivan fuel kit on all my tanks.
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• This is the fuel connection diagram supplied, the same as with most models
• I use a similar method, except I point the fill to the top of the tanks.
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• It’s a good idea to label your tank tubes so you don’t mix them up later.
• Now to locate the tank, note that the tank is upright not flat, I find you get to
pick up more fuel this way, it’s always better to fly longer.
You will need to secure the tank with double sided tape as well as the
provided plastic zippers.
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• Position and secure the tank level with the front of the wing spar.
• There is a very nice spot for the tank filler that is supplied.
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• I use a Tygon petrol line for the overflow and main line; however this is a bit
thick for the fill dot so for an easier fit I use “Du Bro” medium Neoprene fuel
line for the fill line.
• Remember use a good quality fuel filter, dirty fuel in the carbie is very
frustrating when you want to fly. I located mine in front of the tank.
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• I ran the overflow down the front of the tank and out via starboard side (right)
of the fuselage.
• I cut a groove in two pieces of scrap balsa and glued a piece of brass fuel line
between them and glued that inside the bottom of the fuselage with the
overflow extending under the plane.
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Installing the electronics
•
Oh the electronics, my oh my, don’t we have a choice now.
I used a Spektrum 2.4Gig TX and AR9000 RX with two external ariels, one of
which is for Carbon Fibre use.
•
I fitted it into packing foam and located it vertically in front of the rudder
servo.
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•
I located the first satellite aerial beside the RX inside packing foam.
•
I located the second carbon fibre satellite aerial midway within the rear of the
fuselage.
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•
The longer aerial was placed inside a small plastic tube extending outside the
fuselage.
•
I like to use large LiPo batteries; on this model I only used one to supply the
RX and the electronic ignition or CDI. I used a Zippy –H 3S1P 1500mAh 2030C cell. I built a support case from packing foam glued with contact cement.
I also use automotive dual battery connectors.
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•
I located it behind the firewall next to the motor servos.
•
I connected the battery to a TURNIGY UBEC 15A and located it beside the
RX
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•
There is a very nice location for the power switch conveniently in the same
area.
•
The switch fits perfectly.
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•
If you use a PITTS or standard muffler you can locate the CDI under the
Motor box.
•
I use an optical electronic CDI safety cut off and located it beside the fuel tank
on the starboard side.
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•
It has a LED indicator that I fitted opposite the fuel filler dot.
•
As I have fitted a canister muffler, I had to fit the CDI inside the motor box.
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•
I also used a FUTABA multi servo adjuster for the ailerons and servo reverser
for the elevators.
•
I located them in front of the RX. I also fitted an SPM9540 flight logger.
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•
I used 3 different servos
1 Scanner 20kg on the rudder
2 Toward Pro MG996R 11kg Servos on the Elevators
2 Toward Pro MG946R 13kg Servos on the Ailerons
•
I think these 3M units are the best invention ever.
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•
You can really do a neat and secure wiring job using these clips.
•
As I only used 3mm and 5mm allen key bolts, the complete field assembly can
be achieved with only two tools.
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Flight control set up, comments from several fliers of this plane.
“I initially flew mine using the supplied factory balance point. It is just in front of
the wing tube. This is too nose heavy. I have since moved the balance back to the
centre of the wing tube. It flies great. I may move it back another ½ inch”
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Oh my, it’s finished.
Appendix A
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How to make a “pull – pull” wire rudder connection.
That won’t slip.
First unwind the wire and cut it in half, if it is supplied with you model it will be more
than long enough.
DO NOT PULL THE LOOPS TIGHT
Place one of the supplied ferules on the wire and make a loop by feeding the wire
through the ferule in the same direction.
Take the end of the wire and tread it though the brass connecter, back through the
ferule in the opposite direction.
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Then take the end of the wire and loop it back toward the opposite end of the wire.
Once looped bend the wire against the ferule as tight as you can.
NOW YOU CAN PULL THE LOOPS TIGHT
Pull the last loop you created tight, by pulling the wire at the brass connecter, do not
pull the end of the wire.
Then pull on the first loop to make the loop on the brass fitting about 1cm long.
Now pull the long end of the wire to reduce the first loop.
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Use a small set of wire cutters or pliers and crimp the ferule.
Use firm pressure, be aware not to use too much pressure or you may cut the ferule
and wire.
Be very careful not to cut or nick the wire loops on the outside of the ferule.
This double loop method will prevent slippage by ensuring that the wire being pulled
will tighten against itself.
Hope this tip helps you have many hours of failure free flying.
Good flying is no Accident.
MiaMiaFlya
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