MECOA EZ-4061 Trainer

MECOA EZ-4061 Trainer
MECOA EZ-4061 Trainer
EZ-4061 is a newly designed, Almost Ready to Fly kit. It is an extremely easy to control
trainer with strong construction and excellent aerodynamic performance. This is a great
choice for your RC flying.
Specification:
Wing Span: 64 inch, flat bottom airfoil
Wing Area: 735 Sq.inch
Length: 49.5 inch
Engine: 40-63 size, best with 46-61 size 2-stroke engine
Radio: 4-channel radio minimum.
Weight: 5LB
Assembly Instruction
Construction of the major parts of the aircraft has been done at the factory. You, the
modeler, will need to do the final assembly and install the engine, fuel system, and radio
and flight control systems. The work you must perform is not difficult or time
consuming, but it must be done correctly or the model will not function properly.
WARNING: THIS IS NOT A TOY! Model aircraft are capable of inflicting serious
injury and/or property damage. Flying a model aircraft is a skill, which must be learned.
If this is your first radio controlled model aircraft, WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND
THAT YOU FIND AN EXPERIENCED FLYER TO HELP YOU DURING ASSEMBLY
AND THEFIRST FEW FLIGHTS.
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Parts List:
A) Wood Parts Bag:
1. Wing servo tray
2. Fuselage servo tray
support
3. Fuselage servo tray
4. Wing joiner (cylinder)
5. Wing joiner (cylinder)
6. Wing servo tray support
7. Wing servo tray support
8. Wing joint dowel
9. Wing joint dowel
B) Pushrod Bag:
1. Precut pushrod
wood dowel (2pcs)
2. 13” threaded
wire pushrod ends
(4pcs)
3. Wire throttle and
nose-wheel pushrod
(2pcs)
4. 3/8” Shrink tube
5. 12” plastic guide
tube
6. Spinner back
plate
7. Spinner cone
8. Spinner screw
9. Main landing
gear strut (2pcs)
10. Nose landing
gear strut
11. Wheels (3pcs)
2
C) Fuel Tank Bag:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Fuel Tank
Clunk (weight)
6” rubber tube
Cap screw
Up stopper
Rubber cap
Down stopper
Steel tube
Steel tube
Sub Assembly:
Push two steel tubes through two holes in
the rubber cap and stoppers until they stick
out same amount of both sides. Connect the
clunk with one tube by rubber tube. The
clunk should almost but not quite touch the
back of the tank when you insert the cap.
Gently bend another steel tube so that it will
touch the top of tank from the inside.
Tighten the cap screw through stoppers.
D) Nylon Parts and Hinges:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Control horn (2pcs)
Clevis (4pcs)
Nylon wheel collar (3pcs)
Control horn back plate (2pcs)
Aileron connector (2pcs)
Paper Hinges (11pcs)
Pushrod holder (2pcs)
Landing gear strap (2pcs)
E) Hardware Bag:
1. Nose landing gear mounting bracket
2. Screw nut (4pcs)
3. 3X15mm machine screw (4pcs)
4. washer (4pcs)
5. Nose landing gear steering arm
6. Metal wheel collar (4pcs)
7. 3X6 mm steering arm / wheel collar
screw (5pcs)
8. Engine machine screw (4pcs)
9. Nut (4pcs)
10. Washer (4pcs)
11. 2x12mm self tapping screw (8pcs)
12. 2x15mm self tapping screw (4pcs)
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F) Main frame parts:
1. Fuselage
2. Square Canopy plate (not shown)
3. Left wing
4. Left aileron
5. Right wing
6. Right aileron
7. Horizontal tail
8. Elevator
9. Vertical Tail
10. Rudder
All is pre-covered with German Oracover.
Attaching the control surfaces
Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to make slits
for the hinges in the back of the wings and in the
front of the ailerons. IS VERY CAREFUL
WHEN DOING THIS. A HOBBY KNIFE IS
RAZOR SHARP AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS
INJURY IF IT SLIPS. NEVER TRY TO CUT
BY PULLING OR PUSHING THE KNIFE
TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR BODY,
INCLUDING YOUR OTHER HAND. Make
slots for three hinges in each aileron. Also check
to be sure that the aileron control wires (torque
rods), which have been factory installed in the
wings, fit properly into the predrilled holes in the
ailerons.
Mark the center of each hinge and insert them in
the front of the ailerons, using the mark to make
sure that the hinges only go in one half of their
length. DO NOT GLUE THEM YET. Push a
straight pin through each hinge on the center
mark. Now fit the ailerons by inserting the hinges
into the back of the wings and the aileron torque
rods into the predrilled holes in the ailerons.
NOTE: Leave about a 1/32” gap between the wing
and the aileron. (The thickness of 5 or 6 sheets of
this paper.) When you are happy with the fit, flex
each aileron down and drip two or three drops of
thin CA on each hinge. CA IS INSTANT GLUE
AND WILL GLUE FINGERS AND OTHER
BODY PARTS TOGETHER AT LEAST AS READILY AS MODEL PARTS. THIN CA IS VERY THIN
AND WILL RUN ALL OVER IF YOU APPLY TOO MUCH. USE IT SPARINGLY AND AVOID SKIN
CONTACT WHENEVER POSSIBLE. Turn the wing over and do the same on the bottom of the hinges.
Hold each wing with the ailerons down and carefully run some thin CA into the torque rod holes as well.
Set the wings aside for 10 minutes or so, there is a special chemical on the hinges, which slows down the
CA so that it will penetrate better before it sets. Attach the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer and the
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rudder to the vertical stabilizer the same way. Use three hinges in the elevator and two in the rudder.
(There are no installed control wires in these parts.)
Assembling the wing
Locate the two wing joiners and glue them one on
the other together. Be careful to match up the top
and bottom edges before you glue them. After the
glue has set, sand the edges of the joiner as
necessary to fit it into the “pocket” in the center end
of each wing. Slide both wings onto the joiner to be
sure that the wings come together with no gaps at
the center joint. (The “V” shape of the joiner must
face up, toward the rounded side of the wings.)
It is important to get a good, strong bond between
the dihedral joiner and the pockets. Mix a fairly
large batch of 30-minute epoxy and ladle it into the
pocket in one wing. Slip the joiner into the pocket
and pull it out again to see how well the epoxy is
distributed. Keep adding epoxy until all of the
surfaces of the pocket and that half of the joiner is
covered with epoxy. Then insert the joiner (be sure
the “v” faces up) wipe away the epoxy that squeezes
out and stand the wing on its tip until the epoxy sets.
Slide the second wing onto the joiner and recheck
the fit of the center joint. The important point is to
get the front and rear edges of the two wings
together evenly at the center joint. Minor
mismatches along the top and bottom of the center
joint are OK. Mix another batch of 30-minute
epoxy and ladle it into the pocket in the second
wing, checking for complete coverage as you did
with the first wing.
When you are happy with the joiner/pocket coverage, wipe off the excess epoxy around the pocket, then
mix a batch of 5-minute epoxy and spread a thin coat on the center ends of both wings. Working quickly,
slide the wings together, stand the wing on end and wipe off any epoxy which oozes out of the joint, then
use your fingers to hold the leading and trailing edges in alignment until the 5 minute epoxy sets. After all
the epoxy has set, trim off any remaining glue blobs and apply the wing center tape to cover the joint.
Prepare the fuselage
Feel through the covering on the sides and locate
the horizontal stabilizer slots. These are about an
inch down from the top and extend 6 inches forward
from the rear end. The vertical stabilizer slot in the
top of the fuselage starts 3” from the rear end, and is
3 inches long. Cut away the covering from these
slots with a hobby knife. The horizontal stabilizer
slots must extend all the way to the rear of the
fuselage. Use our hobby knife or a saw to cut away
the wood, which blocks the opening at the rear.
5
Mount the tail
With the wing mounted on the fuselage, slide the
horizontal stabilizer into its slot and, looking from
the rear, check it’s alignment with the wing. Sand
the edges of the slot as required to correct misalignments. Now align the stabilizer with the wing
looking from the top, and hold the stab in place with
pins. Draw a pencil line along the top and bottom
of the stabilizer on both sides where it meets the
fuselage.
Now remove the stabilizer from the fuselage and,
using a sharp hobby knife, cut the Oracover
covering along the lines and peel away the portion
between the lines. NOTE: Try to cut only the
covering. Cutting into the wood will weaken the
structure.
Glue the horizontal stabilizer into its slot with fiveminute epoxy. Recheck the alignments frequently
until the epoxy sets. After the epoxy has cured,
remove the wing from the fuselage.
Fit the vertical stabilizer into its slot and rock it
from side to side to be sure that the bottom of the
vertical stabilizer is touching the top of the
horizontal stabilizer. If you can’t feel the vertical
stabilizer rubbing against the top of the horizontal
stabilizer, sand the top of the notched areas on the
vertical stabilizer to allow it to protrude deeper into
the fuselage until you can feel it rub. Now draw a
line on both sides of the vertical stabilizer where it
meets the fuselage top. Remove the vertical
stabilizer and cut away the covering below the line
on both sides.
Puts epoxy on the bottom of the vertical stabilizer
and slip it into its slot. While the epoxy is setting,
use a triangle or a builder’s square to make sure that
the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90 degrees to the
horizontal stabilizer. After the epoxy sets, use CA
to glue the sides of the vertical stabilizer to the top
of the fuselage.
Assemble the nose landing gear
Locate Nose landing gear bracket, steering
arm, landing gear strut, one steel wheel collar
and collar screw. Mount the bracket on the
outside of firewall using predrilled holes and
four machine screws/ nuts /washers. The
straight side or arm faces away from coil.
6
Mount Landing gear
Locate the two heavy wire main landing gear struts. One end of each strut has a 90-degree bend to fit into
the bottom of the fuselage (body of the airplane). Place a nylon wheel collar on the other end of the strut,
up against the gentle bend, then put a wheel on next, followed by a steel wheel collar. Leaving a little bit of
clearance between the wheel and the outer wheel collar, tighten screw on the steel wheel collar. Install the
other main wheel and the nose-landing wheel the same way. The nose landing gear strut has a 90-degree
bend at the bottom for the wheel. This one doesn’t need a nylon collar on the inside, just install the wheel
and the outer collar. Now recheck that all of the wheels will spin freely. If they don’t, increase the
clearance between the wheel and the outer wheel collar.
Pushrod
Get out the four 13” metal wires which are threaded
on one end, the shrink tubing (comes flattened, it
looks like black tape) and the two 17 ¾” hardwood
dowels. Cut the shrink tubing into four equal
lengths.
Using a wire cutter, cut two of the threaded wires
down to 6” long and SAVE THE CUT OFF
PIECES. Set the 6” threaded pieces aside; they will
be used later for the aileron pushrod. Cut one of the
remaining wires down to 7 ¼” long and the last one
down to 9” long. (You can discard these last two cut off pieces.) Make an “L” bend 3/16” from the
unthreaded end of each threaded piece, and 3/16” from one end of each of the two unthreaded cut off
pieces.
Insert the bent end of the threaded wires into the predrilled hole and slot at one end of each dowel, and drip
a drop of thin CA into the slot to hold it in place. Now insert the bent end of the unthreaded wires into the
hole at the other end of each dowel. Use a knifepoint to open the end of the shrink tubing and slip a piece
over each end of the dowels to hold the wires in place. Shrink the tubing tight with a heat gun (or carefully
with a match).
Wing Servo
Glue the wing servo tray supports (1 ½” balsa sticks) to the bottom of the wing servo tray along each end.
Hold the tray against the bottom of the wing, over the center joint with the front of the tray 3.5” behind the
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front of the wing, and draw a line around the tray on the
surface of the wing. Remove the covering material from
within the lines and glue the tray in place. Working
through the opening in the tray, use a rotary grinder or
hobby knife to cut a hole in the wing surface and the
center ribs to clear the servo. Now feed the servo wire
between the tray and the wing surface and install the
servo with the servo wheel toward the rear, using the
directions, which came with the radio.
Make sure that the slots for the aileron torque wires in the
bottom of the wing are not restricting the aileron travel,
then screw the white plastic aileron connectors onto the
threaded portion of the torque wires until 1/8” of the wire
is exposed above the aileron connector. If you haven’t
charged your radio batteries yet, do it now, then hook up
the receiver battery, aileron extension wire and the
aileron servo to the receiver, turn on the transmitter and
make sure that the aileron trim control is centered. This
will center the servo for the next step. Install the “+”
shaped servo arm in place of the wheel which usually
comes on the servo. Position the “+” so that one cross
arm is parallel to the front of the wing.
Get out the two 6” threaded metal wires, which you set
aside earlier, and two white plastic clevises. Insert the
unthreaded end of each wire into the chuck of an electric
drill, and use the drill to screw the wire into the Clevis.
Stop when 1/8” of the threaded portion of the wire is
visible inside the center of the Clevis. Now snap the
clevises through the small hole in the front of the aileron
connectors on the torque wires.
Holding each aileron with its bottom in line with the
bottom of the wing, mark the wire where it falls directly
over the outer hole on that side of the servo arm. NOTE:
The best way to connect flight critical pushrod to the
servo is with a “Z” bend, but this requires special pliers.
If you do not have access to a set of Z- bend pliers, you
may use “easy connectors” (not included in this kit) but
be sure to check them after every flight to be sure they
are tight. (When using accessories not included in this
kit, follow the directions, which come with the
accessory.) Remove the servo arm, install the pushrod in
the outer holes and reinstall the arm on the servo.
With the transmitter on, recheck that both ailerons are parallel with the bottom of the wing. Adjust the
length of the pushrod by screwing the clevises in or out (or sliding the pushrod through the easy connector)
to raise or lower the ailerons as required. Also measure how far the rear edge of each aileron moves
(travels) when you move the transmitter stick all the way left or right. It should move ¼” each way. If it
doesn’t, move the pushrod one hole closer to the center on the servo arm to reduce the travel, or screw the
plastic aileron connectors down further on the torque wires to increase the travel. (Recheck the neutral
position of the ailerons after you adjust either of these). Your wing is now complete! Turn the transmitter
off and disconnect the receiver battery and the aileron servo from the receiver but leave the extension wire
plugged into the receiver.
8
Radio and pushrod
Now, on the left side of the fuselage (with the front facing
away from you), cut a slot ¾” long and 1/8” wide, 6 ¾”
from the rear and ½” from the top of the fuselage. This is
the elevator pushrod exit. Cut the rudder pushrod exit slot
in the back end of the fuselage.
Glue the fuselage servo tray support into the fuselage at the
rear of the main landing gear mount block. Then glue the
fuselage servo tray to the top of the support and the
bulkhead at the rear of the wing saddle opening. The
openings in the tray go toward the front. (Trial fit these
pieces before you glue them in.)
Install your servos following the directions, which come
with the radio. The two rear servos (elevator and rudder)
should have the servo wheels toward the front, and the
forward servo (throttle) should have the wheel toward the
right side of the fuselage. (This is the same side as the
muffler.)
Using the faceplate of your radio “on - off” switch as a
template, make the necessary holes in the left side of the
fuselage and install the switch.
Locate the longer of the two pushrod you assembled
earlier. Carefully feed it, threaded end first, from the wing
saddle through the elevator pushrod exit hole in the left
side of the fuselage. Screw a Clevis onto the threaded end
of the pushrod until 1/8” of the threads protrude into the
center of the Clevis, then snap a control horn onto the
Clevis with the Clevis pin through the outer hole in the
horn.
Slip the front end of the pushrod under the right side of the
servo wheel on the right (elevator) servo to hold it in place
while you position the control horn flat against the top
surface of the elevator with the front of the horn at the front
edge of the elevator. Mark the control horn mounting hole
locations and drill each one through the elevator with a
3/32” bit. Now insert 2 x 15mm sheet metal screws through
the control horn and the elevator. Add the control horn nut
plate to the bottom of the elevator and screw the machine
screws through the nut plate. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
THESE SCREWS OR THEY WILL CRUSH THE
BALSA ELEVATOR.
Install the rudder (shorter) pushrod and control horn the same way. NOTE: The rudder pushrod should
cross over the elevator pushrod inside the fuselage and exit through the back end of the fuselage. Replace
the servo wheel on the left (rudder) servo with a “+” shaped arm and align the + parallel with the fuselage
side. Put the front of the pushrod under the left side of the servo arm on the left servo while you install the
rudder control horn.
9
Plug the servos and switch into your receiver and plug your receiver battery into the switch. Wrap the
receiver and the battery completely in foam rubber (not included in this kit) to protect them from engine
vibration. Use tape or rubber bands to hold the foam in place.
Turn the transmitter and receiver on and center all of the trim levers (center the throttle stick and trim lever
too). Lay the elevator and rudder pushrod over the servo wheel and arm holes which are closest to the
fuselage sides and, while holding the elevator and rudder straight, mark the pushrod where they cross the
holes.
Make “Z” bends at the marks and cut off the excess length of the pushrod. Remove the servo wheel and
arm and insert the ends of the pushrod in the outer holes. (Easy connectors may be used here too, but be
sure to check them often.) With the radio on, center the elevator and rudder by screwing the clevises in or
out on the threaded end of the pushrod. Adjust the amount of movement (travel) of the elevator and rudder
to the amounts shown below, by moving the Clevis to different holes in the control horns. Turn the
transmitter and receiver off after this step to save the batteries.
Remove the rudder servo arm and install an easy connector for the nose wheel pushrod (yes, we do
recommend them for non-flight- critical applications) in the inner hole of the same arm that the rudder
pushrod is connected to. Also install an easy connector in the front (throttle) servo wheel in the hole
closest to the fuselage side. NOTE: Reinstall the arm and the wheel and be sure to tighten the mounting
screws.
Mount your propeller and the spinner on your engine (but leave the muffler off for now). Slip the engine in
position between the engine mount beams so that the back of the spinner is about ½” in front of the end of
the fuselage sides. (Sand the beams a little bit if necessary to fit the engine between them.) Mark the
position of the engine mounting holes on the beams with a sharp pencil.
Remove the engine and drill 5/32” holes on the marks for the engine mounting bolts. Install an easy
connector in the outer hole of the engine’s throttle arm, then mount the engine using the four #4-40 x 1”
bolts and blind nuts provided.
Drill a 1/8” hole through the firewall for the throttle pushrod alongside the engine mount about ½” below
the top right corner of the firewall. (Remember that the right side is the muffler side.) Drill holes through
the tank support bulkhead and the bulkhead at the front of the wing saddle so that the pushrod takes a
smooth path from the engine’s throttle arm to the throttle servo. Slip a plastic pushrod tube through the
holes until the inner end is 1” in front of the throttle servo and glue the tube in place. Insert a thin wire
pushrod through the easy connector on the engine, through the tube and through the easy connector on the
servo wheel. Close the engine’s throttle and then tighten the easy connector on the throttle arm, but leave
the one on the servo loose.
Drill another 1/8” hole through the firewall for the nose` wheel steering pushrod just above the fuselage
bottom about 5/8” from the bottom left corner of the firewall. (The left side is the side away from the
muffler.) Drill holes through the tank support bulkhead and the bulkhead at the front of the wing saddle so
that the pushrod takes a smooth path from the nose wheel steering arm to the rudder servo. Slip a plastic
pushrod tube through the holes until the inner end is 1” in front of the rudder servo and glue it in place.
Trim the outer ends of the tube flush with the firewall. Make an “L” bend ½” from one end of the
remaining thin wire pushrod and then insert the other end of the pushrod through the tube and through the
Easy Connector on the rudder servo arm. The “L” should point downward just in front of the firewall and
will connect the pushrod to the steering arm.
Place the receiver battery on the floor of the fuel tank area, then put the fuel tank in position. The neck of
the fuel tank must protrude through the hole on the firewall. Add some foam rubber above the tank, hold
the hatch cover in place and drill a 1/16” hole near each corner. Use four 3 x 12mm sheet metal screws to
attach the hatch cover. Glue a piece of scrap wood across the opening in the bulkhead at the rear of the
10
tank to keep the tank from sliding backward. Put some foam rubber between the wood and the tank to
prevent engine vibration from causing bubbles in the fuel.
The receiver goes on the floor of the fuselage between the fuel tank and the servos. Use a piece of scrap
wood, placed across the top of the receiver and glued to the fuselage sides to hold the receiver in place.
The simplest way to route the receiver antenna is to drill a 1/16” hole through the bottom of the fuselage in
front of the main landing gear, run the antenna outside, along the bottom of the fuselage, to the tail and tape
it at the rear. DO NOT CUT OFF ANY OF THE ANTENNA. Just let the extra length hang loose.
Mount the wing to the fuselage
Get out the fuselage and locate the two 4 ¾” hardwood dowels. These dowels go through the fuselage and
anchor the rubber bands, which hold the wing on. Find the precut holes in the fuselage sides just behind
and about ½” below the front and rear of the wing saddle. Cut the covering away from these holes and
push the dowels all the way through. The dowels should stick out an equal amount on each side of the
fuselage. When you are happy with the fit, glue the dowels in place with CA.
Many modelers prefer to pad the wing saddle with 1/8” foam tape, but it is not required (and the tape is not
included in this kit). If you wish to use foam tape, apply it now. Fit the wing onto the wing saddle and hold
it on with four or five #64 rubber bands (not included in this kit) on each side. (Be careful that the aileron
servo wire doesn’t hang out.)
Final Assembly
Turn the transmitter and receiver on and pull the throttle stick and the throttle trim lever all the way down.
Hold the engine throttle arm all the way toward the rear while you tighten the easy connector on the throttle
servo wheel. If the engine throttle doesn’t open most or all of the way when you push the transmitter’s
throttle stick and throttle trim all the way up, you will need to change to a “+” servo arm on the throttle
servo in order to get more travel. Setting up the throttle properly is sometimes difficult, so get an
experienced modeler to help you if at all possible.
Center the nose wheel and then tighten the nose wheel easy connector on the rudder servo arm. If the nose
wheel steering arm hits the firewall before the nose wheel reaches full deflection loosen the steering arm set
screw and turn the steering arm away from the firewall a little bit, then retighten the set screw and re-center
the nose wheel.
The main gear mount has been covered over at the factory. Locate the wide “slot” across the bottom of the
fuselage below the wing saddle and cut away the material, which covers it. Install the main landing gear by
inserting the wire struts into the holes in the main gear mount, hold a landing gear strap over the struts near
each fuselage side, mark and drill ( 1/16”) the mounting holes and then install the straps using the remaining
3 x 12mm sheet metal screws.
Mount the muffler onto your engine. Cut and install a piece of fuel line from the left tube in the front of the
fuel tank to the nipple on the left side of your engine’s carburetor and a second piece from the right tube of
the fuel tank to the nipple in your engine’s muffler.
Now BALANCE THE AIRPLANE. This is very important! In order to function correctly, the airplane
must balance 3 ½” to 3 ¾” behind the leading edge of the wing. Perform this test with the airplane ready to
fly, but with the fuel tank empty. Place your fingertips on the bottom of both wings, alongside of the
fuselage, 3 ¾” behind the leading (front) edge of the wing, and hold the airplane off the ground. The
airplane must balance level or slightly nose down when held this way. If it doesn’t, add stick- on lead
weights (not included in this kit) to the nose or tail until it does.
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You are ready for flying
The EZ-4063 is one of the best flying trainer aircraft available. If you have built it
correctly, it will fly gently, but with full control. It will not, however, fly itself or correct
your mistakes for you. To do those things, you will need an experienced RC flyer as an
instructor, preferably with a “buddy box” and a trainer cord. PLEASE, for you own
safety, that of your onlookers and of any property within half a mile or so, DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO TEACH YOURSELF TO FLY THIS, OR ANY OTHER RC AIRCRAFT.
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