document v148 (Sirius Traditional) Apr 2010
WHATEVER FOR APPLIANCES NOT SO INSTALLED. A register of qualified engineers is available from:
UK: The Solid Fuel Association, 7 Swanwick Court Alfreton Derbyshire DE55 7AS Tel:0845-601-4406
RoI: Irish Nationwide Fireplace Organisation, 162 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Tel:01-801-5959
A fire-guard should be used if children or the infirm are present. The
installer is required to EXACTLY follow these instructions and to
completely comply with all local, national and international standards.
Building regulations for the UK, RoI and IoM can be found at
ASBESTOS: This product does not contain asbestos, but you should be
careful to avoid disturbing any asbestos when removing an old installation.
FIRE CEMENT is caustic - wash your hands thoroughly after using it.
WEIGHT Protect your spine by moving the stove only with assistance.
FUME EMISSION: Properly installed and operated this appliance will not
emit fumes into the dwelling. Occasional fumes from de-ashing and refuelling
may occur. However, persistent fume emission is potentially dangerous and
must not be tolerated. If fume emission persists, then the following immediate
action should be taken:
(a) open doors and windows to ventilate the room. (b) let the fire go out or
eject and safely dispose of fuel from the appliance. (c) check the flue or
chimney for blockage and clean if required. (d) do not attempt to re-light the
fire until the case of the fume emission has been identified and corrected. If
necessary seek expert advice
Conforms to
EN 13240:2001+A2 2004
Independently tested in 2010 by SGS
Approved Laboratory No 0608
Intermittent burning solid fuel roomheater for
installation with a single dedicated chimney
Wood (Beech)
Rated Output
5 kW
CO (at 13% O2)
0.15 %
Mean Flue
320º C
Clearance to
Smoke Emission
78 mg/m³
Gas flow
4.9 g/sec
Flue Draught
Minimum 12 Pa
96 kg
Other fuels: Anthracite, peat and smokeless fuels
YOUR CHIMNEY creates the draught which makes your stove work - it must:
• Generate a draught in use of at least 12Pa (0.05ins wg)
• Be capable of withstanding the temperatures generated.
• Be incapable of leaking fumes into the dwelling
This will commonly be achieved by it:
• Being at least 5m high.
• Terminating at least 1m above any roof ridge.
• Having an internal cross-section not less than 0.018m² (eg 150mm dia) and never more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
• Being free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
• Having no bends sharper than 45º.
• Being entirely free of obstructions and swept by a qualified chimney sweep.
• Being connected only to this one appliance.
• Being of thick (100mm+) masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
• Conforming to local building regulations.
Special rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or other vulnerable materials- take specialist advice.
INSTALLATION CLEARANCES The stove must be placed on a solid non-combustible hearth conforming to building regulations.
There must be no combustible material, including fuel, within: Rear 40cm, sides 30cm. If the Europa Hi-Leg unit is fitted hearth
temperature will not exceed 100ºC, and light duty hearth material may be used. If the Europa Hi-Leg unit is used as a log store, logs
must not be placed higher than the central 'bridging' member.
LOAD BEARING This appliance is heavy - take care to ensure that the floor has adequate load-bearing capacity and consider fitting
a load distributing plate if necessary
SIRIUS TRADITIONAL Clean Burn Stoves may be used in smoke control areas strictly in accordance with these instructions, when
UK: Untreated wood logs, natural anthracite or smokeless fuels (s21 of the Clean Air Act 1993)
RoI: Wood logs, smokeless fuels or peat briquettes, not petroleum coke (Control of Atmospheric Pollution Regulations, 1970)
STANDARD LEGS: Attach the legs if required. We suggest that the two legs
with fixing holes be fitted to the back of the stove, for neater appearance. If the
hearth is uneven, fit one or more washers between any leg and the stove body
to lengthen it. Fix the stove down to the hearth, through the legs, using the
screws and plugs provided.
'AMERICANA' COOKTOP KIT OPTION (supplied separately): Remove the two
bolts located to the left and right inside the underneath of the standard top.
Remove and discard the standard top, taking care not to damage the fibre seal.
Fit the 'wings' to the cooktop and bolt the whole assembly back onto the stove
body. Do not over tighten.
'EUROPA' HI-LEG KIT OPTION (supplied separately): Assemble the left, and
right hi-legs loosely to the central bridging member. Attach to the underside of
the stove using the bolts supplied before fully tightening. Note the 'Installation
Clearances' on page 1. When used as a log store, logs must not be placed
higher than the central 'bridging' member.
Rear outlet connected to top
outlet by 'T' piece with cleaning
door. This is the preferred
method of installation.
Top outlet with 45 degree
Rear flue connection into
Top outlet through fully-sealed steel
bend sealed into masonry chimney with sealing collar.
closure plate (fitted with cleaning door)
chimney with cleaning door Cleaning door on opposite
into old, oversized, chimney with steel
on opposite side.
sealing collar.
FLUE CONNECTION: Fasten the flue outlet and blanking plate to the top or back flue outlet with screws and nuts provided. The stove
can be connected to the chimney (using approved flue pipe components) in several ways, four of which are shown above. Whichever
method is used it is imperative that: (1) The route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely air-tight; seal all joins
with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope. (2) It is possible to sweep the entire length- access doors may be required. (3) The entire
construction is of durable fireproof materials- composite board is not a suitable material for closure plates, which should be of steel or
concrete. The stove should be secured to the hearth by screwing through the fixing holes drilled in the legs.
AIR SUPPLY The stove needs air to breathe - there must be a permanent air supply into the room in which the fire is installed equal
to at least 5.5cm² per kW heat output. While it is commonly accepted that this air for an appliance below about 5kW in an older
(before c1980) property can often be supplied by air naturally leaking around windows etc, in any case of doubt fit a fixed air vent. A
extractor fan, or another fireplace or heater can remove this air, even if fitted in a different room.
CO DETECTOR Carbon Monoxide is a poisonous gas, produced by this stove. It is wise to fit a CO alarm near the stove.
best with the airwash closed and the primary 1/3 open. But the
best settings will depend on your fuel, air supply and flue draught
and can only be found from experience. To prevent castings from
cracking, the first fire lit in your stove should be small- made with
little fuel and the air slide set to 'low'.
LIGHTING Empty the ashes. Place two or three firelighters close
together, or screwed-up paper covered with dry sticks, at the back
of the grate and light them. When they are burning well gently fill
the fire very full with dry fuel, close
the door and set the air control slide
to the 'high' (right) position.
EMPTYING ASHES Operate the de-ashing mechanism by
locating the operating tool onto the boss on the right-hand side of
the stove and moving it backwards and forwards a few times. Use
the tool to open the door and lift out the ashpan. Remember to let
ash cool before disposing in plastic sacks or dustbins. There is no
need to empty every last speck, but ash should never be allowed
to build up so that it comes into contact with the underside of the
EXTENDED BURNING Allow the fire to burn down to a low, hot
firebed. Set the air control to 'low', empty the ash and fully fill with
hard fuel such as anthracite (smaller sizes are best).
CLEANING Wipe the stove body with a slightly damp cloth when it
is cool, don't use abrasives, metal polish or 'cream' cleansers as
they can scratch the surface. Polished parts can be brightened
FILLING: When using mineral fuel,
don't fill above the level of the lining
CONTROL How fast the fire burns
depends on how much air reaches
the fuel. The stove has two air
controls, one below the window
('primary' ) and one above
('airwash control' ). Move the
slides to the right for highest output,
to the left for 'low'.
Our tests indicate highest efficiency on wood with the primary
control all but closed and the airwash 2/3 open. Anthracite works
using wire wool. Operating the stove for a few minutes at high
output will usually burn-off any window deposits left by tarry or wet
fuels. After a period of use tiny hairline cracks may appear on the
window, this is not a fault and will not increase the risk of
breakage but is a characteristic of the toughest and most heatresistant material currently available.
OPENING THE DOOR This stove is designed to be operated only
with the door closed. Open the door slowly when refuelling or deashing to minimise fume emission.
There is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly recommend that you try a
selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find which suits you best. Do
avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they can burn far to violently.
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain areas special rules apply to reduce
smoke nuisance. Check with your local authority.
WOOD only emits as much carbon to the atmosphere as the tree
took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon neutral'
fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water. Burning
such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam and
produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly
damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two
years to become reasonably dry, round logs much longer. Cracks
in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling away
are all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white
residue produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of
cell walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash a fire
until absolutely necessary when using wood.
For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
● Split logs lengthways for drying
● Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
● Ensure logs are absolutely dry (less than 15% moisture)
● Fill the stove criss-cross, so air can circulate between
● Fill 'little and often'
● Always have the airwash control (2) at least a little open.
● When first lighting, or reviving a fire from embers, use
only very small, thin, dry, sticks.
JOINERY WASTE Dry wood offcuts will burn well, but don't expect
softwood waste to burn as cleanly or for as long as hardwood
PEAT: Sod turf must be thoroughly dry. BNM peat briquettes are
approved for use in Smokeless Zones in the RoI.
LIGNITE (not smokeless) is a natural mineral, between peat and
coal. It lights easily and burns well, but produces much ash
HOUSECOAL or BITUMINOUS COAL (not smokeless) makes
lots of tarry smoke and large volumes of flammable gas which
make it difficult to control and risk explosions. Despite its low cost,
it rarely represents value for money. Don't use housecoal.
ANTHRACITE (Smokeless) is a natural hard, shiny form of coal.
Slow to light, it can burn for very long periods with great heat.
Despite its high price-per-bag it generally works out to be one of
the cheapest of all fuels. Use the 'small nuts' size.
COKE (Smokeless) is coal from which the smoke has been
removed. Sometimes difficult to light, it burns very cleanly.
BRIQUETTES Are compressed blocks of fuel, generally able to
burn for long periods and remarkable for their consistency.
'Homefire' and 'Phurnacite' are smokeless types while other
brands are made from lignite, peat or housecoal.
PETROLEUM COKE sold as 'Petcoke', 'Longbeach' and under
various proprietary names, is made from oil. Easy to light and to
control, its exceptional heat and lack of protective ash mean that it
MUST NOT be used unless mixed with another fuel. Grate and
liner life will be drastically reduced when using petroleum coke
HOUSEHOLD WASTES Some plastics give off toxic fumes when
burned and remember that batteries and aerosols explode! The
stove is not an incinerator, so only ever use the recommended
fuels and NEVER use liquid fuels in any form.
Problems like those listed here are usually due to some difficulty
with the installation, chimney or fuels, so please check back
through this leaflet carefully. If necessary seek specialist advice.
SMOKE FROM THE CHIMNEY It is quite normal for a little smoke
to be emitted from the chimney when the fire is cold, so, start the
fire using only a very little fuel. Make sure that the airwash 
control is open and use only VERY dry wood or smokeless fuels.
DAMAGED LINERS Your stove gets very, very hot inside, it is
quite usual for the replaceable liners to crack or craze. They need
only be replaced when they have almost completely disintegrated.
Help them last longer by using only very dry fuel.
POOR HEAT OUTPUT: A stove can heat a typical room of about
12m³ volume for each kW of output, so a 5kW model can heat up
to (12 x 5) 63m³, a room of about 5m square. The actual size
depends on the insulation and air-change ratio of the room. To
attempt to heat a larger room will result in excessive fuel
consumption and damaging overheating.
LACK OF CONTROLLABILITY This appliance is designed to
always burn vigorously enough to eliminate smoke - adjust the
heat output by how much fuel you put on, as well as by using the
not designed for extended burning but for quick heat-up and
occasional use. Longer burning can be achieved only using very
hard fuels such as anthracite.
CONDENSATION onto cool surfaces inside the stove can be
severe if fuel is in any way damp. Use only very dry fuel.
OVER-FIRING: It is possible to leave the fire too long with the
controls set too high leading to 'over firing', seen as glowing metal
parts, excessive chimney temperature and risk of parts failing or
chimney fires. Always set controls to the lowest practical setting.
SMOKE COMING INTO ROOM Fumes are poisonous- smoke
emission must NEVER be tolerated, causes might be:
NEW STOVE: There is often a smell and sometimes visible fumes
as the paint cures. This normally stops after an hour or so.
INADEQUATE SEALS: Are all flue pipes and connectors
absolutely gas-tight? Even the tiniest crack or gap can spoil the
BLOCKED THROAT PLATE: Has soot and ash collected on the
'throat plate' above the inner back part of the firebox?
requirement for correct operation is a sound chimney. Check the
requirements earlier in this document and in any case of doubt
engage a professional sweep or chimney engineer.
POOR AIR SUPPLY: Lack of air to the fire is a common cause of
smoking and poor performance. Air supply problems may be
worse in certain wind conditions (often incorrectly ascribed to
'downdraught', which is in fact very rare), where air can be sucked
out of the room. The answer is to fit an air vent, as near to the fire
as possible, facing into the usual wind direction.
DOWNDRAUGHT: Wind can blow down a chimney if there is
something higher nearby such as a tree, hill or high building.
Fitting an anti-downdraught cowl to the chimney top can cure this.
Types which cannot be swept through are not recommended.
POOR CHIMNEY DRAUGHT- Chimney draught in use MUST be
at least 12Pa.
CHIMNEY FIRE: In the rare event of deposits inside the chimney
igniting (roaring sound + dense smoke and sparks from the
chimney) immediately close the door, shut all air controls and call
the fire brigade. Prevent fires by using very dry fuel and having
your chimney swept regularly.
MONTHLY- CLEAN THE THROAT PLATE and CHECK THE DOOR SEALS The throat plate (sometimes called a baffle plate) is the
cast-iron plate inside the roof of the stove, item (9) in the diagram below. It serves to distribute flames towards the sides and top of the
fire and so increase heat output. Remove the plate when the stove is cool to brush off any deposits of soot or ash which might cause a
blocked chimney. Check that the door seals are undamaged, (replacing them if necessary) and that they fully seal against the stove
body. After a period of use the seals can become compressed - if this happens, open the door and lift it upwards to remove, screw in
the hinge supports on the stove body and re-fit the door, repeating this until a tight seal is achieved. The door catch can be adjusted
by unfastening the nut on the back of it and placing washers either in front of or behind the catch itself to move it in or out.
ANNUALLY- SWEEP THE CHIMNEY The entire length of the chimney from stove to outlet should be swept annually, or more often if
smoky fuels are used.
REFURBISHMENT Should the stove body become scratched or dull, repaint it only with heat resistant paint supplied for the purpose
and only when the fire is completely cold. A small jar of paint is supplied with the stove.
NEW PARTS This product has been extensively tested for safety - please don't try to modify it and always obtain genuine spare parts.
1 Main casing
4 Main casing Base
6 Main casing Top
7 Flue outlet collar
8 Flue outlet blank
9 Throat plate
10 Grate frame
11 Front firebar
12 Grate
14 Door
15 Primary air slide
18 Hinge and pin
19 Ashpan
20 Window
21 Glass rope - large
22 Glass rope - small
23 Door catch assembly
24 Operating tool
25a Leg
26 Brick - rear
27 Brick - side left or right
28 Fire cement
29 Stove black paint
30 Handle30O - Solid Oak Handle
30B - Solid Black Handle
31 Screws and fixings pack
32 Cast Trellis
The stove is fully guaranteed for one year from the date of purchase, in addition to your statutory rights.
Distributed in Europe by:
Capital Fireplaces, Unit 12, Henlow Ind Est, Henlow Camp, Beds SG16 6DS UK
Tel: 01462-813138
Designed in England by Glyn Hughes Design. The SIRIUS TRADITIONAL Clean Burn Stove is registered at the UK Patent Office, and is fully protected by
Copyright © and UK Design Right, Glyn Hughes 1999/2005. Assembled by the people of Gao Zhuangzi Village, Tianjin, China from components
manufactured in the UK, USA, Japan and China. The suppliers reserve the right to change any specification without notice. CD&P Act 'right of recognition' is
invoked. Issued a:27/07/11
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