40% extra 330l arf

40% extra 330l arf
40% EXTRA 330L ARF
Please read through the entire manual first. It contains important instructions and warnings concerning the
finishing of the model.
Radiowave Hobby Ind. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. IN
PURCHASED KIT. Further Radiowave reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without
In that Radiowave has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Radiowave 40% Extra 330L ARF.
Flying the Extra 330L is a very rewarding experience, as it should be for such an aerobatic model. With the
aircraft control surfaces set for precision aerobatics, the aircraft will perform prescribed aerobatic patterns as
used in IMAC (International Miniature Aerobatic Club) events exceptionally well. With control surfaces set
for freestyle flying, the aircraft will perform today’s modern 3D aerobatic maneuvers to really showcase the
aircraft’s aerobatic potential.
Please finish the Extra 330L according to the instruction provided in this manual. We do not recommend
altering the model in any way that could result in an unsafe model. To prevent any possibility of flutter,
please make sure that there is no slop or backlash on the control linkages. Install gap seals, especially on the
ailerons. Use only high quality, high-torque servos (minimum 120 in-ozs each) for all the control surfaces.
INCIDENCE: checking and setting
Humidity and temperature changes can cause the Ultracote covering to wrinkle during
shipment and exposure to the sun at the flying field. This is normal and can be easily
Wrinkles can be removed by using a heat gun and sealing iron. (with iron sock). When
shrinking the Ultracote do small sections at a time. Once the Ultracote is heated and shrunk,
rub the heated area with a soft cotton glove or cloth while cooling. This will cause the
Ultracote adhesive to bond both to the wood and Ultracote.
Be careful not to over heat the sections when different colors meet (seam) it can cause the
seams to become wavy and unsightly. Make sure that all seams are sealed tightly.
It may be necessary to repeat this procedure one or two more times until the wood and
Ultracote have settled in to the humidity and temperature conditions in your area.
If ever need to replace any of the covering the Ultracote colors are as follows
Ultracote True Red #866
Ultracote Deep Blue #873
Ultracote Bright Yellow #872
Ultracote White #870
Required Hardware
Some hardware has been provided with this ARF. These are the hinges, the bolts and nuts required to
mount the fiberglass cowl, the front hatch, and the plug in horizontal stabilizers. The wing panels have ¼20 blind nuts imbedded in the plywood wing roots for mounting the wings to the fuselage, but the bolts are
not included. For ease of assembly in the field, we recommended the use of ¼-20 bolts with knobs, so that a
tool will not be necessary to mount the wings on the fuselage.
We suggest the following hardware:
Item Used
¼ Inch Axles
¼ Inch Wheel Pant Mounts
8-32 Socket Head Bolts and
Self-Locking Nuts
¼ Inch Wheel Collars
4 ½ inch Wheels
1 ½ Inch Wheel
Rudder Control Horns
Recommended Brand
Sig or Sullivan
Landing Gear
Landing Gear
Landing Gear
Landing Gear
Aileron Control Horns
Du-Bro or Sullivan
Du-Bro or Sullivan
Andy Kane or Rocket
Rocket City
Elevator Control Horns
Rocket City
Ball Links
Rocket City
Carbon Fiber Tube for 4-40
all thread
1 Inch 4-40 Titanium
2 Inch 4-40 Titanium
Clamp Loks
¼-20 Alum or Steel Bolts
Hanger 9 or Team
Hanger 9 or Team
Assorted JTEC
1 for
each rx
Pilot Figure
5 Inch Spinner
Fuel Tank (50 Oz)
Pillow Packs
Composite Creations
Tru-Turn, Dave
Brown, or Mejzlik
Tail Gear
Rudder Control
Aileron Control
Elevator Control
Push-rods for control
Push-rods for control
Control Rods
Control Rods
Securing servo
extensions, fuel lines
Fuel Tank
Receiver and battery
foam protection
Bolting Wing to
Pilot Figure
Instruction for checking and Setting the Wing and Horizontal Stabilizer Incidence.
Although the incidence is referenced to zero within +/-1/2 degree at the factory by laser, we have
found for best aerobatic performance setting the wing and stabilizer incidence angles to zero degrees
will give optimum performance.
Setting the fuselage to zero degree.
Remove the hatch cover. Place your incidence meter or level on the top of the fuselage frame where
the canopy would sit. Raise or lower the fuselage until the incidence meter reads zero, this is your
zero reference point. Secure the fuselage in place so it will not move while you are checking the
wing and stabilizer incidence.
Checking the Horizontal Stabilizer Incidence
Plug in the horizontal stabilizers on the fuselage and bolt into place. Check the incidence of both left
and right stab panels with the meter. It should be within (+/-) ¼ degree of zero. If not, it is
suggested that the incidence be reset. If both panels need to be reset, make four 1/8 inch birch ply
washers about ½ inch in diameter and drill holes in the center so a 6-32 bolt fits snugly in the hole.
Enlarge the holes in the plywood tabs used to bolt the stab into place so that the stab incidence can
move up and down about 1 degree. Now, insert the 6-32 bolts into the plywood washers and loosely
bolt the stab panel into place. Set the stab panel to zero with the meter, and slightly tighten the bolt
so the stab won’t move. Now, carefully wick thin CA between the mounting tab and the plywood
washer on the forward and aft tabs. If necessary, repeat the procedure for the (opposite?) stab panel.
Remove the stab panels and reinforce the mounting tab / ply washer with medium CA around the
Checking the Wing Incidence
Making sure that the fuselage is still set at zero degrees, plug in the wing panels and bolt into place.
Check the incidence with the meter. Both panels should be within (+/-) ½ degree of zero. If both
panels are reading a positive (leading edge up) ½ deg of zero, there is no need to reset the incidence.
If one panel is reading a positive incidence, and the other a negative incidence, or if both panels are
at a negative incidence, then the incidence needs to be reset. Unbolt the wing panels, slide the
panels slightly outboard of the tube and enlarge the wing bolt holes on the fuselage so that the wing
incidence can be adjusted about (+/-) 1 to 2 degrees. (For the next steps, use ¼-20 metal bolts, since
it’s possible that some thin CA will get into the bolt. If this happens with a nylon bolt, it will be
impossible to remove the bolt from the wing and fuselage without breaking the bolt.) Place the ¼
inch plywood washers on the wing bolts, and loosely bolt a wing panel into place on the fuselage
and set the wing panel to zero degrees with the meter. Once set at zero degrees, tighten the wing
bolts, but not too tight so that thin CA can wick in between the ply washer and the fuselage side.
Now, wick in thin CA between the ply washers and the fuselage sides for both forward and aft
washers. Reinforce the joint with medium CA between the washer and the fuselage side. Repeat the
procedure for the other wing panel.
Installation of the Control Surfaces
1. Trial fit the vertical fin onto the fuselage. Before the fin is glued in permanently make sure that it is
perfectly straight. To do this, slide in the stab tube and center it by measuring both sides from the
fuselage. Once you have the tube centered, measure from the end of the tube to the tip of the fin on
both sides. This measurement should be exactly the same if the fin is straight. The best and easiest
way to measure is to tie/glue a string to a “T” pin and pin it to the tip of the fin. Then extend the
string to one side of the fuselage to the end of the tube and make a mark, next, without removing the
pin, move the string to the other side of the fuselage to the end of the tube. The mark should be at
the same place for both sides. If the measurement is not the same, carefully sand the fin base on the
fuselage to “straighten” the fin. Once you feel that it is straight, use 30 minute or slower epoxy to
permanently install the fin, while the glue is drying, use tape to secure the fin.
2. Glue in the Hinges for the Ailerons, Elevator, and Rudder. Use epoxy or hinge glue works very well
for this application. Grease (Vaseline) or oil the hinge line to prevent any adhesive from getting into
the hinge line, which would bind the hinges.
3. The hard points for the control horns are plywood plates that are glued to the foam core at the top
and bottom of the control surface, flush with the balsa skin. Drill holes at the top and bottom hard
points for the aileron and elevator, and at the left and right hard points for the rudder. The trick to
drilling the holes for the control horns is to drill from both the top and bottom of the hard points,
making sure that the drill marks at the top are exactly at the same location as the marks for the
bottom. Since you will be drilling only thru 3/32 skin and 1/8 or 3/16 ply, it not very deep, so there's
no need to be exactly perpendicular to the control surface centerline. Once you have drilled from
both sides, then go back and drill again from one side only, and let the drill go thru the other side,
but carefully, making sure you don't drill a new hole. Now the holes are perpendicular to the control
surface centerline. When installing the control horn bolt, as you get close to the other side, keep an
eye on the bolt from the hole in the other side to be sure that it is starting well on the hole, otherwise
you might push the plate and cause it to debond from the foam. When installing the plastic nut for
the control horn, don’t tighten too much, or you will crush the foam beneath the hard point. Put a
dab of loctite or 5-min epoxy on the control horn bolt and nut to prevent them from rotating and
becoming loose from engine vibration.
4. The locations for the hard points are as follows:
Ailerons: The centers of the hard points are located approximately 11”, 26 ½”, and 46 1/8” from the
tip of the aileron. Measure these distances along the bevel line from the tip of the aileron. The sizes
of the hard points are 1 ½ wide by 3 inches long x 3/16 inch thick and are located at the top and
bottom of the aileron. After locating the hard points, make a mark ½ inch behind the bevel line. It is
recommended that the location of the hole be offset slightly towards the servo (not on the center of
the hard point, or directly in line with the point where the pushrod is attached to the servo arm) so
that when the servo is at full deflection, the pushrod is perpendicular to the hinge line axis. This will
give maximum torque to your control surface at the maximum servo deflection. Repeat the
procedure for the hard points at the bottom.
Elevator: The centers of the hard points are located 8 1/8”, and 17 3/8” from the tip of the elevator.
Measure these distances along the bevel line from the tip of the elevator. The size of the hard points
are 1 ¼” wide by 2 ½” long by 1/8 inch thick, and are located at the top and bottom of the elevator.
Use the same procedure for marking the holes for control horn bolt as described for the aileron
Rudder: Locate the center of the hard point from the bottom of the rudder along the bevel line. The
size of the hard point is 2” (top to bottom) and 3 ½” (front to rear). This is of sufficient size for
mounting the Andy Kane rudder control horn. Locate and mount the horn such that the hole for
bolting the clevis is at the hinge centerline.
Install Fuel and Smoke System
Install the fuel tank on top of the fuel tank plate located in the front of the fuselage. We like spot
gluing in a piece of foam for the tank to rest on, and cutting slots on the fuel tank plate so pieces of
Velcro or Zip-ties can be used to secure the fuel tank. You also may want to make preparations for a
smoke tank now, should you decide to install a smoke system later. Install and route the fuel tubing
using J’TEC Clamp Loks to secure the fuel tubing.
Install Main and Tail Landing Gears
1. The landing gear has pilot holes drilled for the axle. You may have to increase the hole diameter for
the particular brand of axle you are using. Once this is done, bolt on the axles. Mark the location of
the wheels on the wheelpants; drill, and then install the wheel pant mounts. Install the wheel, and
wheelpants, and bolt the main landing gear to the fuselage aluminum gear mounts with four 8-32
bolts and self-locking nuts.
2. Install the tail wheel assembly.
Prepare Cockpit Area and Install Canopy
1. Paint the cockpit area with a color of your choice, and install front and rear instrument panels, and a
2. Trim the canopy slightly larger than the trim line marked on the canopy and check the fit to the front
hatch, and re-trim, if required. When satisfied with the fit, glue the canopy to the removable front
hatch. Do this with the hatch bolted to the fuselage. After the glue has dried, add some vinyl trim
(aprox ¾ inch wide) around the canopy/hatch glue line for improved looks. Vinyl trim is available
in any sign shop in your area.
Radio Installation
1. Install the servos for the ailerons and elevators at the servo mounts provided. These mounts may
need some sanding to achieve a proper fit for your particular brand of servo. Once the servos are
installed, fabricate the push rods to connect the servos to the control horns. The elevator push rods
can simply be made of 4-40 all thread since the push rod length is so short.
2. We recommend that the rudder servos be installed in the fuselage underneath where
the pilot would sit in the aircraft. If you decide to install the servos in the fuselage a mounting plate has been
installed to accommodate up to three ¼ scale size servos.
However, if you like, there are pre-cut holes in the rear of the fuselage for 4 standard size servos should you
decide to install them in the rear for a push-pull system. Please be advised that installing the servos in the
rear may result in a tail-heavy airplane and should be used for pilots more interested in 3D and freestyle
aerobatics rather than precision aerobatics.
3. Make appropriate mounts for installing you receiver, batteries, switches, and antenna routing tubes.
We highly recommend the J’TEC Clamp-loks for a neat installation of servo wires in the fuselage
and antenna routing tubes. Remember to keep the receivers at least 12” from the ignition module
and separate the antennas from the servo leads as much as possible. Spending a little extra time here
to do this may save time at the flying field trouble shooting radio issues if any. Additionally, we try
to keep the batteries positioned so that they can be mounted securely, but also easily moveable for
quick CG changes if needed during initial set-up.
Servo Recommendations
S-9206 x 6
S-9206 x 4
S-5301 x 3
S-3002 Mini
9155 x 6
9155 x 4
9152 x 2
S-8611SA x 6
S-8611SA x 2
S-8611SA x 3
S-8101 or any coreless
5955 x 6
5955 x 2
5735 x 2
Engine Installation
The firewall is installed with 3 degrees or right thrust built it.
First, locate the vertical centerline and the horizontal centerline on the firewall. Use the actual
firewall itself to locate the centerlines (don’t use the front of the motor box to establish the
1. If you will be using a DA-150 or 3W-150, draw another vertical line 10mm (aprox. 13/32) from the
center vertical line. When looking at the firewall from the front, draw the new vertical line to the
right of the center vertical line. The intersection of the new vertical line and the horizontal line is the
center of your engine mount.
2. Now locate, and then drill the engine mounting holes on the firewall. For the DA-150 and the 3W150, the engine mounting holes are 80 mm (3.15 in) apart laterally, and 90 mm (3.54 in) apart
3. If you have an engine other than a DA-150 or 3W-150, and the distance between the back face of the
motor mount and the front face of the drive washer is less than 7.7 inches (195.5mm) you will have
to install spacers between the back face of the motor mount and the firewall so that the back face of
the spacer and the front face of the drive washer is 7.7 inches (195.5mm). Then, you can use the
same 10mm lateral offset of the vertical centerline to mount your engine.
4. After you have drilled the holes for engine mount, check the back of the firewall to see where the
holes are. It may be necessary to remove some of the wood that is used to reinforce the motor box
and firewall joints to make room for the blind nuts. Then, install the blind nuts.
5. Prior to mounting the engine we strongly suggest using a lightweight fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth
with resin to provide extra strength to the firewall mounting. This can be done easily by laying the
cloth across the firewall and down the sides of the engine box about 4 inches.
6. Cuts holes as required for fuel tubing, and connect the tubing to the engine and route the vent line as
necessary. Determine your throttle servo location and cut holes as necessary for the throttle push
rod, and install your throttle servo.
7. Cut holes in cowl for muffler exhaust pipes and install cowl. There are 4 bolts that are used to bolt
the cowl ring to the fuselage. The two top bolts are bolted using the aluminum angle that is bolted to
the motor box, and the two bottom bolts are bolted from the front of the cowl ring, reaching in from
the exhaust hole at the bottom of the cowl.
Initial Set-Up
1. Now, with everything on the airplane such that it is practically ready to fly except for the wing
panels and wing tube, check the initial CG using the method described below. Note that this method
does not actually determine the actual CG, but a balance point, which, when the wing panels are
installed will place the CG at a good position for initial flights.
2. Thus, with the wing panels and wing tube off, lift the aircraft with your fingertips at the wing tube
socket on both sides of the fuselage. The aircraft should balance level, or with the nose just slightly
3. Initial control throws are as follows:
When setting your throws we recommend using CRC or similar throw meters.
Aileron: 25 degrees up and 20 degrees down for low rate
40 degrees up and 35 degrees down for high rate
Notice: We recommend a 5 degree difference between your up and down throws when setting up
your Ailerons, this will allow you to have a more axial roll.
Elevator: 12 degrees up and down for low rate
35 degrees up and down for high rate
Rudder: Aprox. ½ of max available throw for low rate
Full available throw for high rate
4. Recommended initial mix ratios:
10% up elevator with either left or right rudder
2% right aileron with left rudder
2% left aileron with right rudder
Flying your Extra
Initial Flight – We suggest a shake down flight with altitude. Check glide and stall characteristics.
Please land and check control surfaces, hardware and engine for tightness.
If you plan on using your aircraft for precision aerobatics please take the time to trim your aircraft
properly. If your CG is set up for precision aerobatics and you want to fly 3D/freestyle aerobatics,
you may want to experiment with moving the CG aft by adding between 8 to 12 oz of weight in the
aft end of the fuselage to see you like the way the aircraft flies in the 3D/freestyle mode this way.
We at Radiowave hope that you enjoy owning and flying your 40% Extra 330L ARF far into the future.
The following are a few pictures of your typical Radiowave 40% Extra ARF.
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