GT Owners Manual 8.5 x 11 Pages

GT Owners Manual 8.5 x 11 Pages
Owner ’s Manual
337-229-4864 |
On behalf of the entire Gator-Tail crew, we thank you for purchasing our shallow water
outboard. We built it with quality, pride and the desire to give you the best motor for your
money. You had the chance to buy the others, but you chose us, and that is something we
don’t take lightly. With that, you can rest assured we stand behind our product and are here
for you for the long haul, ready to help with any questions you may have.
We hope you enjoy your new Gator-Tail Outboard. Once again, thanks for making us your
The Gator-Tail Crew
Table of Contents
Service & Maintenance
Appendix -
Electrical Diagrams, Grease, Actuator Servicing
1. Read and understand the entire instruction manual before you operate your
2. Also read and understand your engine instruction manual.
3. Never run your motor without the safety lanyard attached to your wrist or belt loop.
4. Operate your Gator-Tail from a seated position, unless you install a grab bar in your
boat to operate standing up.
5. Never run your Gator-Tail in an enclosed area. Gas fumes can be hazardous to your
6. Keep guards in place and in working condition.
7. Don't engage the propeller into gear when out of the water.
8. Keep children away. All passengers should be seated when riding in a Gator-Tail.
9. It is recommended that you always wear an U.S. Coast Guard approved life jacket
when operating the Gator-Tail.
10. Wear proper apparel. Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets,
or other jewelry which may get caught in moving parts. Non-slip footwear is also
11. Never perform maintenance on your Gator-Tail while the engine is running. To avoid
accidents remove the ignition key when not in use.
12. Never leave machine running unattended.
13. Do not operate your Gator-Tail if you are under the influence of drugs of alcohol or
medication that could affect your ability to use the machine.
14. Never touch the engine or muffler during or immediately after operation. Components
can become extremely hot and could cause severe burns.
15. Never jump obstacles with your Gator-Tail.
Check crate for any physical damage and report the damage to the shipping company
as soon as possible.
Do not start your Gator Tail without filling with oil!
(see engine owner's manual for oil type and amount)
Remove the sides of the crate for easy access to engine.
We recommend you use an engine hoist to lift engine from crate; attach the hoist to
the two lift eyes on top of engine.
Locate and mark the center of your backboard and place motor in center.
Place transom spacers between transom bolts and transom and tighten against
Connect the battery cables to the battery. Make sure connections are tight.
Connect the fuel line to motor (install primer bulb on motor end).
Gator-Tail suggests you purge the lower unit grease every 15 hours. You must use
Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Lithium Complex Grease to avoid damage and
voiding your warranty. (see pg. 12 for Amsoil data sheet)
Using a grease gun, purge out old grease with new grease.
Place grease gun on grease fitting near the top of lower unit; pump old grease out.
When you see the new grease, stop pumping and replace plug.
Dispose of old grease in the proper manner.
2) Belt
Check belt 50 hours for tightness.
Optimum Tightness: When squeezing belt with one hand, there should be ¼” to ½”
slack on both sides; any more belt will need to be tightened.
Signs of loose belt:
Loud grinding noise at take off
If you think belt is loose, call Gator Tail for shims.
Belt Tightening:
Remove the four 5/16” bolts that bolt down the motor. Slide belt off of pulley. Tilt
motor to one side and add shims. Tilt motor to other side and add shims. Lean motor
back and slide belt on pulley. Tighten four engine bolts back.
3) Propeller
Inspect propeller after every trip and check for looseness. A sign of a loose prop is the
prop rocking left to right. If the prop is loose, tighten to 60 ft/lbs torque.
4) Throttle
Throttle should always have about 1/8 turn slack before the engine RPM's raise. This is
important to maintain a low idle. Throttle slide should be lubricated with spray or grease
to prevent stiffness (every ten hours). If this procedure is neglected, this will result in
premature cable failure.
Instructions for changing transmission fluid:
1. Remove cover from rear of engine using a 9/16" wrench.
2. After removing cover remove the two fill screws on the
3. Cut the bottom off of a plastic water bottle so that it fits
between transmission and brake bracket.
4. Turn the transmission housing so that the holes are at
12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position and let all oil drain out of the
transmission. On the first oil change you may have to use you
oil can to purge the system, (we use grease to assemble the unit
and this will come out at the first oil change).
4. After all oil is drained, turn the
holes to the 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock
position. Using a large syringe or a
small hand held oil pump, pump
(10W30 engine ) oil into the
11 o'clock hole. When oil starts to
come out of the 5 o'clock hole the
transmission is full. Turn the holes
to the side and put the drain screws
back in place. Reinstall the
transmission cover.
Power Trim
Does not work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . Check circuit breaker
Breaker located near
rear of starter
Reset Circuit Breaker
Does not work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check fuse 5 amp
Does not work up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check switch relay (located under front cover)
Does not work down . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Check switch relay (located under front cover)
Does not work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check fuse
Does not work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check wire connection
Does not work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check switch
Check for loose prop
Startup Procedure
Pump primer bulb until firm
Pull choke
Check to see if engagement switch is in start position (this is also neutral)
Start engine
Let engine warm up before operating
Running Procedure
1. Idle engine down before engaging clutch (forward)
2. When approaching boat ramps, docks, blinds, etc., the clutch may be quickly
engaged/disengaged to make a slow approach
3. Steering Torque. If you find the motor is pulling to one side, you must make
an adjustment by bending the skeg plate (the extruding portion nearest to the
prop) by bending it in the opposite direction from the pull. (see figure below)
Terrain Conditions & Motor Trim Information
When running through mud, the engine should be trimmed down for maximum
propeller thrust
When running through sand, leave engine trimmed parallel with the bottom of
the boat. A level forward push is best for hard bottom conditions
Deep Water
Boats will achieve best speeds with the propeller trimmed close to the surface
with half of the prop in the water, and half out. (on most boats)
Trailer Transporting Tips
The Tilt pin is not to be used to tilt the motor up when transporting. Damage
will result. The pin is to be used for polling or inspecting the propeller etc.
Properly secure your motor’s lower unit by strapping to the trailer to ensure the
motor has no side to side movement
Tilt Pin
Skeg Adjustment Point
Reverse Operation
To engage reverse, put the motor in neutral and squeeze the reverse lever. The
lever must be squeezed or pulled for the reverse gear to work. DO NOT engage the
motor into reverse while the motor is in forward. This will void your warranty and
can damage the transmission.
After 15 hours of use, you must change the fluid in the transmission.
Your transmission is engaged using a hydraulic system. If for some reason the lever
loses resistance, follow the following procedure for bleeding the system.
Bleeding Instructions
Be sure all hydraulic connections are secure. Never use Teflon tape to seal the
fittings in the castings. An appropriate Teflon paste like that used from the
manufacturer is recommended. The high pressure tubing should be inserted
completely into the cap and ferrule. Use only type “H” high pressure nylon tubing.
From finger tight, the fitting cap should be tightened 2 turns. This should leave a
gap of about 0.50” between the cap and the hex part of the fitting body.
Remove the filler plug from the master cylinder top and for standard systems, fill
reservoir with DOT-5 silicone brake fluid only! The filler plug must be left loose all
during the bleeding process so do not replace it tightened. Stroke the master
cylinder lever arm a full stroke and open the bleed screws on the caliper for about 2
seconds then close. Allow the master cylinder arm to return the the rest position
and wait approximately 15 to 20 seconds to allow for the fluid in the reservoir to
transfer into the bore of the master cylinder thought the transfer port. Repeat the
process of stroking the master cylinder again. Open and close the bleed screw the
same as before. Allow the master cylinder lever arm return to rest and wait again.
It typically takes about 4 strokes to fill the bore of the master cylinder. Check the
reservoir for fluid and keep topped up.
Continue this procedure until a more firm pedal is realized and the brake pads begin
to move. At this point the procedure changes. You should now have a shorter
master cylinder to stroke to work with as the pads are making contact with the
rotor. From this point on, open and close only one bleed screw for a very short time.
Basically open and close the bleed screw about as fast as possible. Do not be
concerned if you get only fluid. Repeating the process, continue to pump the
master cylinder rapidly, hold firm and open a bleed screw. Continue this process
until satisfied that this half of the caliper is bled. Repeat the process on the other
caliper half until bled. If a large amount of fluid is allowed to escape from the bleed
screw during this process, you will most likely draw air into the system causing a
spongy pedal. The reason for this you would inadvertently cause a strong vacuum
in the power side of the system with no means for the master cylinder piston to get
back to the resting position where the transfer port reservoir is uncovered.
When finished, check the reservoir for the proper fluid level which is about a 1/16”
below the bottom of the master cylinder cap threads. Replace the filler plug and
finger tighten only. Check all hydraulic connections for fluid leaks.
Electrical Diagrams
Hydraulic Actuator Trim Motors / Console Steering
Electrical Diagrams
Hydraulic Actuator Trim Motors / Briggs Engine Tiller Models
Servicing the Actuator
FOR MODELS: 7050, 7205, 7257, 7293, 7337, 7342, 7344, 7376, and 7388
1. First, run the actuator rod all the way out
or until the motor bogs down. Remove the
1/8” brass socket filler plug with a 3/16” hex
key wrench.
2. Next, with the same wrench, remove the
1/8” level plug.
3. Run the unit until the actuator rod is
completely retracted. Let all the fluid
run out until it stops.
4. Next, start pouring your fluid in through
the filler hole, at the same time run the
actuator until the rod is completely
extended. You can use #2216 Mystic or
equivalent, SAE 20 or 30 nondetergent
oil, or Dextron transmission fluid.
5. Keep fluids running out level hole,
while running actuator rod back up.
Stop at 3” before completely retracted.
6. Next, replace your level plug.
7. Then, run unit until actuator rod is
completely extended and replace your filler
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