OWNER`S MANUAL - Team Losi Racing

OWNER`S MANUAL - Team Losi Racing
OWNER'S
MANUAL
Carefully read through all instructions to familiarize yourself with the parts, construction techniques, and
tuning tips outlined in this manual. Being able to grasp the overall design of your new XXX-4 Buggy
before beginning the construction process will ensure a smooth assembly.
Take your time and pay close attention to detail. Keep this manual for future reference.
Team losi, Division of Horizon Hobby inc.,
4710 Gausti Rd., Ontario CA 91761
phone: (909)390-9595 • fax: (909)390-5356
www.TeamLosi.com / feedback@TeamLosi.com
MADE IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
P/N 800-0186
8/29/2002
RWW
Welcome Team Losi XXX-4 Owner!
Thank you for selecting Team Losi and the XXX-4 as your new racing Buggy. As you will see, we have made every effort
to design and produce a kit that is not only the most competitve, but easy to build and maintain. The simple bag-by-bag
assembly sequence and unmatched easily followed instructions, combined with Team Losi's world famous quality-fitting parts,
should make building your new XXX-4 a most enjoyable project.
Before you open the first bag or start any assembly, please take a few moments to read completely through the following
instructions. This will familiarize you with the various parts as well as the tools you will need. Taking an extra moment before
starting can save you a good deal of time and assure proper assembly.
Once again, thank you for choosing Team Losi.
Good luck and good racing!
1. INTRODUCTION
XXX-4 COMPLETED KIT DIMENSIONS
Overall Length: 15-3/8"
Wheelbase: 10-3/4"
Front Width: 9-3/4"
All dimensions at ride height.
Rear Width: 9-5/8"
Height: 5-3/8"
Weight will vary depending on accessories.
NOTES & SYMBOLS USED
Step A-1
tions for an entire bag prior to beginning assembly. Key numbers (in
parenthesis) have been assigned to each part and remain the same
thoughout the manual. In some illustrations, parts which have already been installed are not shown so that the current steps can be
illustrated more clearly.
For your convenience, an actual-size hardware identification
guide is included with each step. To check a part, hold it against the
silhouette until the correct part is identified. In some cases extra
hardware has been supplied for parts that may be easy to lose.
The molded parts in the XXX-4 are manufactured so that they
interlock. When screws are tightened to the point of being snug, the
parts are held firmly in place. For this reason it is very important that
screws not be overtightened in any of the plastic parts.
To ensure that parts are not lost during construction, it is recommended that you work over a towel or mat to prevent parts from
rolling away.
This is a common Step sequence found at the beginning of each
new illustration throughout the manual.
! 1. Each step throughout the entire manual has a check box to the
left of it. As you complete each step, mark the box with a check. If you
need to take a break and return to building at a later time you will be
able to locate the exact step where you left off.
This is a common note. It is used to call attention to specific
details of a certain step in the assembly.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Even if you are familiar with Team
Losi kits, be sure and pay attention to these notes. They point out
very important details during the assembly process. Do not ignore
these notes!
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTES
In illustrations where it is important to note which
direction parts are facing, a helmet like this one will be included in the
illustration. The helmet will always face the front of the car. Any
reference to the right of left side will relate to the direction of the
helmet.
1. Select an area for assembly that is away from the reach of small
children. Some parts in this kit are small and can be swallowed by
children, causing choking and possible internal injury.
2. The shock fluid and greases supplied should be kept out of
childrens' reach. They are not intended for human consumption!
3. Exercise care when using any hand tools, sharp instruments,
or power tools during construction.
4. Carefully read all manufacturers' warnings and cautions for
any glues, chemicals, or paints that may be used for assembly and
operating purposes. When you are using glues, chemicals, and paints
you should always wear eye protection and a mask.
KIT/MANUAL ORGANIZATION
The kit is composed of different bags marked A through H. Each
bag contains all of the parts necessary to complete a particular section of the XXX-4. Some of these bags have subassembly bags within
them. It is essential that you open only one bag at a time and follow
the correct assembly sequence, otherwise you may face difficulties
in finding the correct part. It is helpful to read through the instruc-
i
TOOLS REQUIRED
Team Losi has supplied all necessary allen wrenches and two special assembly wrenches that are needed for slipper adjustment, assembly and
turnbuckle adjustments. The following common tools will also be required: Needle-nose pliers, regular pliers, medium grit sandpapper, hobby
knife, scissors, and body cutting/trimming tools. A soldering iron may be necessary for electrical installation. 3/16", 1/4", and 11/32" nut drivers
are optional.
RADIO/ELECTRICAL
A suggested radio layout is provided in this manual. Your high-performance R/C center should be consulted regarding specific questions
pertaining to radio/electrical equipment.
HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION
When in question, use the hardware identification guide in each step. For screws, the prefix number designates the screw size and number of
threads per inch (i.e. 4-40 is #4 screw with 40 threads per inch). The second number or fraction designates the length of the screw. For cap head
and button head screws, this number refers to the length of the threaded portion of the screw. For flat head screws, this number refers to the
overall length of the screw. Bearings and bushings are referenced by the inside diameter x outside diameter. Shafts and pins are referred to by
diameter x length. Washers are described by inside diameter or the screw size that will pass through the inside diameter. E-clips are sized by the
shaft diameter that they attach to.
MOTORS AND GEARING
The XXX-4 includes an 92-tooth, 48-pitch spur gear. The internal drive ratio of the XXX-4 is 2.10. The pinion gear that is used will determine
the final drive ratio. To calculate the final drive ratio, first divide the spur gear size by the pinion gear size. For example, if you are using a 20-tooth
pinion gear, you would divide 92 (spur gear size) by 20 (pinion gear size). 92/20 = 4.60. This tells you that 4.60 is the external drive ratio. Next,
multiply the internal drive ratio (2.10) by the external drive ratio (in this case 4.60). 2.10 x 4.60 = 9.66:1. This means that by using a 20-tooth pinion
gear with the standard 92-tooth spur gear, the final drive ratio is 9.66:1.
Consult you high-performance shop for recommendations to suit your racing style and class. The chart below lists some of the more
common motor types and recommended initial gearing for that motor. Ratios can be adjusted depending on the various track layouts, tire sizes,
and battery types.
RECOMMENDED INITIAL GEARING FOR COMMON MOTORS
TYPE OF MOTOR
PINION
SPUR
24º Stock
25
92
8-Turn Modified
16
92
9-Turn Modified
17
92
10-Turn Modified
18
92
11-Turn Modified
19
92
12-Turn Modified
20
92
13-Turn Modified
21
92
14-Turn Modified
22
92
15-Turn Modified
23
92
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION ................................................................................ i
Completed Kit Dimensions .............................................................. i
Notes & Symbols .............................................................................. i
Kit Manual Organization .................................................................. i
Important Safety Notes .................................................................... i
Tools Required ................................................................................. ii
Radio/Electrical ................................................................................ ii
Hardware Identification .................................................................. ii
Recommended Gearing ................................................................... ii
2. BAG A ............................................................................................... 1-7
3. BAG B ...............................................................................................8-11
4. BAG C ..........................................................................................12-15
5. BAG D ........................................................................................ 16-20
6. BAG E ......................................................................................... 21-25
7. BAG F ......................................................................................... 26-28
8. BAG G ................................................................................................ 29
9. BAG H ........................................................................................ 30-34
10. Checklist Before Your First Run ................................................ 35
11. Tips From the Team .................................................................. 35-37
12. Spare Parts List ........................................................................ 38-41
Team Losi is continually changing and improving designs; therefore, the actual part may appear slightly different than the illustrated part. Illustrations of parts and
assemblies may be slightly distorted to enhance pertinent details.
ii
BAG A
STOP! There are two, complete differential assemblies in the XXX-4 kit. The Front - plastic differential, shown in steps A-1 thru
A-9 and The Rear - steel differential , shown in steps A-10 thru A-19. The XXX-4 kit was designed using the stock 42T drive
pulleys in the front and rear of the car. There is an optional 41T pulley included in Bag H of this kit, This feature can be used to
apply under-drive or over-drive in the vehicle. See set-up tips at the end of this manual.
Step A-1
Diff Nut Carrier:
27
Figure 1
183
! 1. Insert a 4-40 mini lock nut (183) into the hex area of the diff nut
carrier (27). The thread-locking portion (plastic) of the nut should
face the outside.
183
Step A-2
Diff Nut w/Belleville washers:
Figure 2A
154
! 1. Locate the 1/16" Allen wrench (125) supplied with the kit.
27
154
Place the diff nut carrier (27), nut side first, over the Allen wrench
towards the "L-end."
! 2. Stack the six 1/8" Belleville washers (154) over the wrench and
125
up against the diff nut carrier. The washers should all point the same
direction and open away from the diff nut carrier as shown in Figure
2A.
Figure 2B
Step A-3 Diff Nut to Male Outdrive:
19
! 1. Insert all of the parts that are stacked on the wrench (125) into
the plastic male outdrive/ diff half (19) (the one with the post). Line up
the tabs on the diff nut carrier (27) with the slots in the male outdrive.
Press the parts all the way into the male outdrive.
125
Figure 3
Step A-4
Diff Drive Ring to Male Outdrive
108
! 1. Apply a small amount of clear diff grease (172) to the outside
ring of the plastic male outdrive (19). Attach a diff drive ring (108) to
the male outdrive by lining up the flat section of the ring with the flat
section on the outdrive.
*NOTE: Only a small amount of grease is needed. It is only used
to hold the drive ring in place.
19
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not glue the drive rings to the
outdrive/ diff halves. Doing so may not allow the washers to mount
flat.
CLEAR DIFF
GREASE (172)
Figure 4
1
BAG A (Continued)
Step A-5 Diff Pulley
117
42
82
82
117
! 1. Insert a 5mm x 8mm Bearing (117) into the center of the 42T diff
pulley (42).
Figure 5
! 2. Press a 3/32" diff ball (82) into each of the twelve small holes in
the diff pulley as indicated in Figure 5.
Step A-6
Diff Pulley to Male Outdrive
42T PULLEY
"w/ FLANGE"
(42)
82
Figure 6
42
41T PULLEY
"w/o FLANGE"
(BAG H)
(43)
! 1. Apply a heavy coat of clear diff grease (172) to the exposed
side of the diff ring (108) that is already attached to the outdrive (19).
108
! 2. Carefully place the diff pulley (42) over the post on the outdrive
so that the diff balls (82) and diff pulley rest against the greased drive
ring. Leave the assembly with the 1/16" Allen wrench (125) standing
as shown in Figure 6.
CLEAR DIFF
GREASE (172)
19
2
BAG A (Continued)
Step A-7 Bearing to Female Outdrive
! 1. Press a 5mm x 8mm bearing (117) into the center area of the
117
female plastic outdrive/ diff half (20) as indicated. The edge of the
bearing should be flush with the front of the outdrive.
! 2. Apply a small amount of clear diff grease (172) to the outer ring
of the outdrive. Install the second drive ring(108), again aligning the
flat sections of the outdrive and the drive ring.
117
20
108
Figure 7
Step A-8 Female
Outdrive Assembly
20
186
95
149
91
! 1. Place the foam thrust bearing seal (186) over the shoulder of
the diff adjusting screw (91).
! 2. Place one of the 1/8" x 5/16" thrust bearing washers (149) over
the diff screw.
! 3. Using the MIP RED grease (157), apply a fairly heavy coat of
grease to the thrust washer and position the eight 5/64" thrust balls
(95) in a circular pattern around the diff screw. Apply another coat of
RED MIP grease over the thrust balls and place the second thrust
bearing washer over the diff screw and up against the thrust balls.
*NOTE: The thrust bearing washers are packaged in a small bag
along with the eight 5/64" thrust bearing balls.
! 4. Insert the diff screw into the female outdrive (20). Pull the
threaded end of the diff screw until the thrust assembly rests against
the inside of the outdrive.
157
95
149
MIP RED
GREASE
157
Figure 8
186
91
Step A-9 Male to Female Outdrive Assembly
! 1. Carefully replace the Allen wrench (125) with a pen or pencil
from the male outdrive (19) and place it in the slot of the female outdrive
(20) containing the diff screw (91). The pen will be used to hold the
diff nut carrier (27) assembly in the bottom side.
! 2. Apply a good amount of clear grease (enouth to cover the
balls completely) (172) to the exposed side of the balls in the diff
pulley (42) on the male outdrive.
! 3. While holding the female outdrive with Allen wrench inserted,
carefully assemble it to the male outdrive.
! 4. Make sure that the slot in the diff screw is lined up with the slot
in the female half and then while holding the male half slowly turn the
female outdrive until the threads of the diff screw engage on the
threads of the 4-40 mini nut (183). Remove the pencil from the male
half and thread the two outdrives together until the screw just starts
to snug up.
! 5. Tighten the diff until the pulley (42) cannot be turned while
both of the outdrives are being held firmly. Final diff adjustment should
be made after completion of the XXX-4.
When tightening the diff, tighten the screw a little and then
"work" the diff a little. Then tighten the screw a little more and
"work" the diff again. Continue this until the diff doesn't slip. This
ensures that the parts in the diff are properly seated. Refer to tech
tips for final adjustment. "Working" the diff is done by rotating the
outdrives in opposite directions.
20
125
91
108
CLEAR DIFF
GREASE
42
(172)
27
PENCIL
19
3
Figure 9
BAG A (Continued)
Step A-10
Diff Nut Carrier:
27
183
! 1. Insert a 4-40 mini lock nut (183) into the hex area of the diff nut
Figure 10
carrier (27). The thread-locking portion (plastic) of the nut should
face the outside.
Step A-11
183
Diff Tube Assembly:
Figure 11A
86
154
154
27
86
125
! 1. Locate the 1/16" Allen wrench (125) supplied with the kit.
Place the diff nut carrier (27), nut side first, over the Allen wrench
towards the "L-end."
! 2. Stack the six 1/8" Belleville washers (154) over the wrench and
up against the diff nut carrier. The washers should all point the same
direction and open away from the diff nut carrier as shown in Figure
2A.
! 3. Place the diff tube (86) over the wrench, large side first, so that
Figure 11B
it rests against the beveled washers.
Step A-12
Diff Tube Assembly to Outdrive:
87
IMPORTANT NOTE: Male outdrive defined as: Outdrive
containing diff tube assembly (fig 11). Female outdrive defined as:
Outdrive containing thrust assembly (fig 17).
27
! 1. Insert all of the parts that are stacked on the wrench (125) into
the outdrive/ diff half (87). Line up the tabs on the diff nut carrier (27)
with the slots in the outdrive. Press the parts all the way into the
outdrive, so that the diff tube (86) is seated inside the outdrive.
Step A-13
Figure 12
86
Diff Drive Ring to Male Outdrive
108
108
! 1. Apply a small amount of clear diff grease (172) to the outside
SMALL AMOUNT
OF CLEAR DIFF
GREASE (172)
ridge of the outdrive/diff half (87). Attach a diff washer (108) to the
outdrive by lining up the flat section of the diff washer with the flat
section of the outdrive.
*NOTE: Only a small amount of grease is needed. It is only
there to hold the diff washer in place.
87
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not glue the diff washers to the
outdrive/diff halves. Doing so may not allow the washers to mount
flat.
4
Figure 13
BAG A (Continued)
Step A-14
Diff Pulley
42
117
82
82
! 1. Insert a 5mm x 8mm Bearing (117) into the center of the 42T diff
117
pulley (42).
! 2. Press a 3/32" diff ball (82) into each of the small holes in the diff
pulley as indicated in Figure 14.
Figure 14
Step A-15
Diff Pulley to Diff Tube
42T PULLEY
"w/ FLANGE"
(42)
41T PULLEY
"w/o FLANGE"
(BAG H)
(43)
82
42
! 1. Apply a heavy coat (same as step A-9) of clear diff grease (172)
to the exposed side of the diff ring (108) that is already attached to the
outdrive (87).
108
! 2. Carefully place the diff pulley (42) over the post on the outdrive
so that the diff balls (82) and diff pulley rest against the greased diff
ring. Leave the assembly with the 1/16" Allen wrench (125) standing
as shown in Figure 15.
CLEAR DIFF
GREASE (172)
87
Figure 15
FIGGIGUREFASDF
5
BAG A (Continued)
Step A-16
Bearing Insert
153
153
117
117
! 1. Insert a 5mm x 8mm bearing (117) into the second outdrive/
diff half (87). Make sure that the bearing is pushed all the way into the
outdrive. A pencil or the handle of a hobby knife can be used to push
the bearing into place.
! 2. Apply a slight amount of clear diff grease (172) to the
1/4" x 5/16" shim (153). Insert the shim into the outdrive/diff half next
to the 5mm x 8mm bearing. Make sure that the shim is flat against the
bearing. Be extra careful not to bend this shim!
*NOTE: Only a small amount of grease is needed. It is only
needed to hold the shim in place next to the bearing.
Step A-17
91
87
Figure 16
Diff Adjusting Screw Assembly
186
149
95
! 1. Locate the diff adjusting screw (91) and place the foam thrust
87
bearing seal (186) over the shoulder of the screw.
! 2. Place one of the 3mm x 8mm thrust bearing washers (149) over
the diff screw.
*NOTE: The thrust bearing washers are packaged in a small
bag along with the eight 5/64" thrust bearing balls.
! 3. Grease the thrust washer well with MIP RED thrust bearing
grease (157) and place the eight 5/64" thrust bearing balls (95) on top
of the washer, around the diff screw. Apply more RED thrust bearing
grease to the tops of the thrust bearing balls. Place the second thrust
washer over the screw and against the thrust bearing balls.
! 4. Very carefully insert the diff screw, with the thrust bearing
assembly installed, into the outdrive (87). Be very careful not to bend
or pinch the shim (153) while inserting the diff screw. Pull the threaded
end of the diff screw until the thrust bearing assembly rests against
the shim and bearing (117) inside of the outdrive.
157
MIP RED
95 THRUST BEARING
GREASE
149
157
186
91
Figure 17
IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that all eight thrust bearing
balls remain in place between the two washers, around the diff screw.
6
BAG A (Continued)
Step A-18 Diff Drive Ring to Female Outdrive
108
108
SMALL AMOUNT
OF CLEAR DIFF
GREASE (172)
91
! 1. Locate the smallest of the Allen wrenches, 0.050 (128), and
place it through the slot in the outdrive/diff half (87) containing the
diff screw (91). Slide the wrench all the way against the screw. By
handling the outdrive/diff half with the wrench inserted, the diff screw
will be held in place while finishing assembly of the differential.
! 2. Apply a small amount of clear diff grease (172) to the outer
ridge of the outdrive. Install the remaining diff washer (108), again
lining up the flat sections of the outdrive/diff half with the flat sections in the washer.
128
87
Figure 18
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not glue the diff washers to the
outdrive/diff halves. Doing so may not allow the washers to mount
flat.
Step A-19 Outdrive Assembly
! 1. Carefully replace the Allen wrench (125) with a pen or pencil
from the male outdrive (87). The pen will be used to hold the diff nut
carrier (27) assembly in the bottom side.
! 2. Apply a fairly heavy coat of clear diff grease (172) to the exposed side of the drive/ diff ring (108) on the female outdrive.
! 3. While holding the female outdrive with Allen wrench inserted,
carefully assemble it to the male outdrive.
! 4. Make sure that the slot in the diff screw is lined up with the slot
in the female half and then while holding the male half slowly turn the
female outdrive until the threads of the diff screw engage on the
threads of the 4-40 mini nut (183). Remove the pencil from the male
half and thread the two outdrives together until the screw just starts
to snug up.
! 5. Tighten the diff until the pulley (42) cannot be turned while
both of the outdrives are being held firmly. Final diff adjustment should
be made after completion of the XXX-4.
When tightening the diff, tighten the screw a little and then
"work" the diff a little. Then tighten the screw a little more and
"work" the diff again. Continue this until the diff doesn't slip. This
ensures that the parts in the diff are properly seated. Refer to tech
tips for final adjustment. "Working" the diff is done by rotating the
outdrives in opposite directions.
87
128
91
108
CLEAR DIFF
GREASE
42
(172)
27
PENCIL
87
Figure 19
7
BAG B
Step B-1
Tensioner Arm Assy:
110
152
146
116
98
116
! 1. Snap a 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (116) into the right side of the idler
98
44
pulley (44). The bearing will snap past the ridge and stop.
! 2. Place the idler pulley shaft (98) through the idler pulley from
the bearing side.
! 3. Slide a #4 x .020 washer (152) over the 4-40 x 5/16" button head
screw (146).
! 4. Insert the 4-40 x 5/16" button head screw through the idler
pulley and secure it to the belt tensioner arm (110).
152
146
Figure 20
Step B-2 Belt Installation:
77
*NEVER PINCH THE BELT*
NEVER OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS IN THE
CHASSIS - Team Losi has designed interlocking
features into the XXX-4 chassis when screws are to the
point of being snug the parts are held firmly in place.
! 1. Position the chassis (46) upside-down on your work bench.
Insert the belt (77) and pull it through both ends of the chassis.
! 2. Pull the belt out, just slightly, through the bottom of the chassis and insert the Steering tunnel (29), tall end forward, into the slot in
the front of the chassis. Press into position as indicated in Figure 21.
The steering tunnel should now be located in between the belt,
with the belt still slightly hanging out of both ends of the car.
29
46
Figure 21
8
BAG B (Continued)
Step B-3 Front Diff
46
Install:
118
134
129
118
SIDE WITH
DIFF NUT
CARRIER (27) 77
Note: Use the plastic diff assembly for the front of the XXX-4.
19
The diff adjustment screw should be facing the drivers left side
of the chassis.
129
! 1. Slide one 1/2" x 3/4" bearing (118) over each of the outdrive
cups (19),(20) with the teflon seal facing away from the diff pulley
(42).
! 2. Pull the belt (77) slightly out of the front of the chassis (46) and
install a diff assembly into the slots as indicated in Figure 22. Pull the
slack from the belt through the rear of the chassis.
! 3. Secure the diff assembly by installing the front diff cover (62)
with two 4-40 x 1/2" cap head screws (129) through the diff cover into
the two counter-bored holes in the chassis.
! 4. Flip the chassis over and install the two 4-40 x 3/8" flat head
screws (134) through the bottom of the chassis into the front diff
cover as indicated in Figure 22.
20
62
There is a short thread-cutting screw included in the wrench
bag. This screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the main
chassis and the bottom of the diff cover. Pre-tapping these holes
makes it easier to install the screws during assembly.
Step B-4
134
42
Figure 22
Rear Diff Install:
118
134
129
118
87
Note: Use the steel diff assembly for the rear of the XXX-4.
Once again, the diff adjustment screw should be facing the
drivers left side of the chassis.
! 1. Slide one 1/2" x 3/4" bearing (118) over each of the outdrive
129
cups (87),(87) with the teflon seal facing away from the diff pulley (42)
on the remaining differential.
! 2. Spread the belt (77) apart and install the diff assembly into the
slots of the chassis (46) as indicated in Figure 23. Once the diff assembly is in place, pull the slack up through the center of the chassis
from the top side.
! 3. Secure the diff assembly by installing the rear diff cover (69)
with two 4-40 x 1/2" cap head screws (129) through the diff cover into
the counter-bored holes in the rear of the chassis.
! 4. Flip the chassis over and install the two 4-40 x 3/8" flat head
screws (134) through the bottom of the chassis into the rear diff cover
as indicated in Figure 23.
46
42
77
69
There is a short thread-cutting screw included in the wrench
bag. This screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the main
chassis and the bottom of the diff cover. Pre-tapping these holes
makes it easier to install the screws during assembly.
87
134
SIDE WITH
DIFF NUT
CARRIER (27)
Figure 23
9
BAG B (Continued)
Step B-5 Slipper Clutch Assembly:
103
99
106
119
99
96
196
197
119
! 1. Press a 3/16" x 5/16" bearing (119) into the Slipper Hub (103)
from the outside/large face. Slide the Top Shaft (99) through the bearing in the Slipper Hub.
! 2. Place the Spur Gear (71) onto the slipper hub and place all six of
the slipper pucks (156) into the holes in the spur gear.
! 3. From the "Drive Pulley" (70) side of the Slipper Clutch Assy,
slide the Slipper Bearing Spacer (106) over the Top Shaft. Place the
second 3/16" x 5/16" bearing over the Top Shaft and press the bearing into the Slipper Hub.
! 4. Place the flat face of the Slipper Plate (104) against the slipper
pucks in the Spur Gear. Then press the 6 pins of the Drive Pulley (70)
through the holes in the Slipper Plate continuing through the center
hole of the Spur Gear and into the 6 holes in the Slipper Hub.
! 5. Insert Slipper Spring Shim (155) followed by the Slipper Wave
Spring (123) into the Slipper Drive Pulley and thread the Slipper Flange
(105) Counter Clockwise onto Slipper Hub until it is "finger tight".
Place one .005 shim (196) and one 0.015 shim (197) on the top shaft
next to the bearing. Slide Bushing (96), large side toward Slipper Hub,
over Top Shaft.
! 6. The Slipper Wrench will be used for the final adjustment of the
Clutch Assembly at a later step in this manual.
119
70
156
105
Tighten
71
106
104
Figure 24A
155
123
196
96
Slipper Wrench (193)
Figure 24B
Step B-6 Slipper Clutch Insert:
Figure 25
146
96
151
71
! 1. Holding the Slipper Clutch Assembly, with thumb and index
151
finger, pull the belt (77) up through the chassis (46) and line up the
top shaft (99) with the holes in the chassis.
! 2. Place a #4 hardened washer (151) over a 4-40 x 5/16" button
head screw (146) and insert it through the left side of the chassis and
thread it into the top shaft.
146
46
You may need to slightly pinch the chassis to install the 4-40 x
5/16" button head screw.
! 3. Once again, place a #4 hardened washer over a 4-40 x 5/16"
button head screw and insert it through the chassis and thread it into
the right side of the top shaft.
Leave the right side screw a bit loose until the belt tensioner is
installed.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Never pinch the belt as it will result
in a shorter life of the belt and cause your vehicle to stop running!
10
77
197
BAG B (Continued)
Step B-7 Tensioner Arm Installation:
151
146
! 1. Slide the Tensioner Arm Assembly (110) down over the belt (77) and connect the slot in the Tensioner Arm with the Slipper Clutch Assy.,
Belt Tensioner Bushing (96) as indicated in Figure 26A.
! 2. Slowly start rotating the Tensioner Arm Assy. around the Belt Tensioner Bushing in a clockwise direction as shown in Figure 26B. While
rotating the Tensioner Arm Assembly, slightly pull upward to keep the Tensioner Arm locked and rotating around the Belt Tensioner Bushing.
The belt should be positioned between the Slipper Drive Pulley (70) and the Tensioner Arm.
! 3. Place a #4 hardened washer (151) over a 4-40 x 5/16" button head screw (146).
! 4. Once you have the belt wrapped around the Slipper Drive Pulley and Belt Tensioner in position, as shown in Figure 26C, secure the
Tensioner Assembly by threading the 4-40 x 5/16" screw, with washer through the chassis (46) and into the Tensioner Arm. With the screw
about one turn loose, push down on the flat part of the tensioner and set the desired belt tension, tighten the screw.
The belt should move 1/8" (3mm) to 1/4" (7.5mm) up and down for the ideal tension.
Figure 26C
46
Figure 26A
110
Figure 26B
110
151
77
146
77
96
44
70
Step B-8
Bottom Cover Installation:
145
61
145
46
! 1. With the chassis facing upside down, seal the drive train by
placing the bottom chassis cover (61) with the flat side towards the
bottom of the chassis (46). Secure the bottom chassis cover with
seven 2-56 x 3/16" flat head screws (145).
Figure 27
11
BAG C
Step C-1 Steering Bellcrank Assembly:
142
80
81
142
80
150
81
Using a medium grade sandpapper (i.e. 500 grit) clean the
excess material off the 5mm x 8mm bushings. This will ensure a free
working steering assembly.
150
33
" 1. Thread a 3/16" ballstud (81), from the top side, into each of the
32
left (30) and right (31) bellcranks.
" 2. Insert a 5mm x 8mm bushing (33) into the top and bottom of the
left and right bellcranks.
" 3. Insert the 2 carrier / steering bushings (100), into the bottom
side of the draglink (32) and then rest it on the top of the left and right
bellcranks.
" 4. Slide the 3/8" ball stud (80) through the ball stud washer (150)
and through the Steering Bushing in the draglink and then thread
into the left bellcrank.
" 5. Thread a 4-40 x 3/8" buttonhead screw (142) through the steering bushing and into the right bellcrank.
100
31
30
LARGE HOLES
FORWARD
33
Figure 28
Step C-2 Steering Install:
Figure 29
32
46
134
" 1. Line up the hex on the steering post (97) with the front hex area
31
30
29
on left side of the chassis (46). Press the steering post to the bottom
of the hex. Thread a 4-40 x 3/8" flat head screw (134) through the
bottom of the chassis and into the steering post.
" 2. Repeat step 1 for the right side steering post.
" 3. Slide the draglink assembly from step C-1 through the steering
tunnel (29) and then slide the left bellcrank (30) over the steering post
on the left side of the chassis.
" 4. Sliding the right bellcrank (31) over the right steering post will
need to be done at the same time as the left bellcrank.
The bellcrank should rotate freely.
97
134
12
BAG C (Continued)
StepC-3 Front Body Mount Install:
64
Figure 30
137
64
137
" 1. Thread a 4-40 x 5/8" set screw (137) into a front body mount
(64) until it hits the bottom.
" 2. Thread the body mount into left bellcrank (30).
" 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 and thread into the right bellcrank (31).
The steering assembly should rotate freely. Be sure that the
screws are not too loose but, not too tight.
30
Step C-4 Servo Assembly:
All standard servos should use only one silver spring and one
gold spring. All hi-torque & high-speed servos will use all three
springs.
" 1. Using Table 31B (on the following page), determine which
servo saver base (36) is required for your servo. If your particular
servo is not listed, try using the arm recommended for another servo
made by the same manufacturer.
81
111
81
" 2. Thread a 3/16" ball stud (81) into the outer servo saver arm (39)
40
from the front side as indicated in Figure 31.
" 3. Plug the servo into the radio system's receiver (not included).
Make sure that there is power to the receiver, and turn the transmitter
on followed by the receiver. Be sure that the trim settings for the
steering on your transmitter are set to the center. With the radio system still turned on, attach the servo arm to the output shaft so that the
arm is vertical as shown in Figure 31.
" 4. Turn off your radio, slide one of the two "silver" servo saver
springs (111) over the servo arm which is connected to the servo. Fit
the second of the "silver" springs over the first spring followed by
the "gold" spring (112). The springs should all be pressed against the
back of the servo saver base.
" 5. Press the outer servo arm into the servo saver base. Insert the
servo saver washer (40) into the outer servo saver arm. Secure the
assembly to the servo with the servo arm screw supplied with the
servo.
36
SCREW
SUPPLIED WITH
SERVO
39
112
Figure 31
13
BAG C (Continued)
SERVO TYPE
AIRTRONICS
ALL
FUTABA
S131, S131SH, S148, 23001, S3003, 25101, S9101,
S9201, S9304, S9401, S9403
FUTABA
S3401, S9402, S9404, S9450
HiTech
ALL
JR
NES-507, NES-513, NES-517, NES-901, NES-4000,
NES-4131, NES-4721, NES-4735, NES-9021, DSJR
Z4750, Z8450
KO
PS-702, PS-703, PS-1001, PS-1003
KO
PS-901BH, PS-902
MULTIPLEX
ALL
WIDE
NARROW
Table 31A
OFFSET
REQUIRED
SERVO ARM
NARROW
23
WIDE
25
NARROW
25
NARROW
24
NARROW
23
WIDE
23
WIDE
23
NARROW
23
NARROW
23
Table 31B
Step C-5
Servo Post Assembly:
34
151
151
131
131
" 1. Use Figure 31A and Table 31B to determine how the servo
mounting posts (34) and (35) should be attached to the servo (not
included) in the Wide or Narrow position.
" 2. Place a #4 washer (151) over each of the four 4-40 x 3/8" cap
head screws (131) and attach the servo posts to the servo by threading a screw through the servo mounting ears into the upper and lower
holes in each post. Do not tighten the screws yet! Just snug them up
so that the posts are held in place, but can still be moved from side to
side with a little resistance.
" 3. As shown in Figure 32, you will use the bottom side of the
chassis to determine the exact spacing needed for your brand servo.
With the scerws still loose, push the pins on the servo mounts into
the holes in the bottom of the chassis (46). Slide the mounts until the
screws are centered on the servo, and tighten as indicated in Figure
32.
35
46
Figure 32
The servo should be as close to centered between the two posts
as possible.
14
BAG C (Continued)
Step C-6 Servo Install:
Figure 33
134
34
" 1. Install the servo into the chassis (46). The pins from both
servo mounting posts (34), (35) should fit into the holes and sit flat
against the chassis.
" 2. Secure the servo to the chassis with two 4-40 x 3/8" flat head
screws (134).
134
46
Step C-7
Figure 34A
10
137
10
137
" 1. Thread a short plastic rod end (10) onto each end of the 4-40 x
5/8" threaded rod (137). Tighten both sides equally until the rod is the
same length as the one shown in Figure 34B.
Figure 34B
Step C-8 Servo Link Install:
Figure 35
10
137
80
81
" 1. Attach the rod end (10) to the ball stud (80) in the servo saver
arm (39) and the other to the ball stud in the drag link (32) as indicated
in Figure 35.
32
15
39
BAG D
Step D-1
Front Inner Pivot Install
47
134
! 1. Install the front left inner pivot block (47) by threading two 4-40
x 3/8" flat head screws (134) through the bottom of the chassis (46)
into the pivot block as indicated in Figure 36. Repeat for the right
front inner pivot block (48).
The left & right inner pivots are marked with "L" & "R".
46
134
Figure 36
Step D-2
Front Arm Install
Figure 37A
135
101
195
194
ASSEMBLE MAIN BLOCK
IN THIS DIRECTION
! 1. Slide a 1/8" inner hinge pin (101) through the larger holes of
each of the two front arms (53) also passing through the Hinge Pin
Retainer (194).
! 2. Position the arm so that the shock mount hole faces the front
of the chassis (46). Place one pivot ball (49) on the rear of each hinge
pin. Insert the arm into the inner front pivot block (47) L, (48) R.
Capture the front arms by placing the front main block (50) marked
with "7.5F" onto the inner hinge pins as shown in the illustration in
Figure 37B. Secure the front main block by threading two 4-40 x 1/2"
flat head screws (135) through the main block into the holes in the
front diff cover (62).
! 3. After securing the front main block, thread a 5-40 x 1/8 Set
Screw (195) into the Hinge Pin Retainer and tighten to secure the
hinge pin.
46
62
Note: The arm should rotate freely on the
hinge pin and not in the in the front main block
or the pivot balls. If the arm does not pivot freely,
use a small file to remove a small amount of material from the arm where the hinge pin retainer
rests against it.
47
49
195
135
50
16
101
194
53
Figure 37B
BAG D (Continued)
Step D-3
Front Shock Tower
130
182
Figure 38
107
130
52
107
! 1. Insert a 4-40 x 3/4" cap head screw (130) on either side of the
shock tower (52) through the middle hole on the top of the shock
tower. Secure the screws to the tower by threading a 4-40 zinc nut
(182) over each screw and tightening.
The screws should extend away from the recessed area in the
front shock tower.
! 2. Thread a short neck ball stud (107) into the inner and uppermost of the lower five holes on either side of the shock tower.
182
The ball studs should face the recessed area in the front shock
tower.
Step D-4
52
Front Shock Tower Install
46
129
! 1. Attach the front shock tower (52) to the front of the chassis (46)
with four 4-40 x 1/2" cap head screws (129). The screws thread into
the top-most and bottom-most holes, surrounding the posts, which
stick out of the front of the chassis. The shock tower should interlock
with the posts on the chassis.
There is a short thread-cutting screw included in the wrench
bag. This screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the main
chassis. Pre-tapping these holes makes it easier to install the screws
during assembly.
129
Figure 39
17
BAG D (Continued)
MIP CVD TABLE
MIP CVD KIT FRONT XXX-4
PART # NAME PART #
NAME
114A
Coupling 114F
Bearing Spacer
114B
Solid Pin 114G
Roll Pin
114C
Set Screw 114H
Hex Adapter
114D
Axle
114J
8-32 Locknut
114E
CVD Bone
*NOTE: See Table 40 for part numbers and name of all items
referred to in the MIP CVD kit for the front of the XXX-4.
Table 40
Step D-5
CVD Axle Assembly
114A
114B
Figure 41
114C
MIP
THREAD
LOCK
(158)
! 1. Apply a thin coat of red MIP thrust bearing/ assembly grease
(157), (from the white tube), to the outside of the CVD coupling (114A).
Insert the greased CVD coupling into the large hole in the CVD Axle
(114D) so that the cross-hole in the coupling can be seen through the
slots in the axle.
! 2. Place the CVD bone (114E) over the CVD axle. Align the holes
in the CVD bone with the hole in the CVD coupling. Secure all three
parts by inserting a 1/16" x 7/16" (solid) pin (114B) through the holes
in the CVD bone, the slots in the CVD axle, and the hole in the CVD
coupling.
! 3. Apply a small amount of Thread-lock compound (158), in the
black tube, to the set screw (114C) before installing it.Center the pin
in the CVD bone and secure it by threading a 4-40 x 1/8" set screw
into the end of the CVD coupling.
! 4. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the second CVD assembly.
114E
114C
MIP
RED
LUBE
(157)
114B
114A
114D
Apply the enclosed Thread-lock to the set screw before threading it into the CVD coupling. If Thread-lock is not used, the set
screw will loosen during operation. This will cause your car to stop
running.
Step D-6
CVD Axle to Spindle Assembly
Figure 42A
114D
116
92
114F
114G
114H
183
13
! 1. Thread a 1/4" ball stud (92) through a 0.060 spacer (13) through
116
the top side of the left spindle arm (16) and into a 4-40 x 3/16 mini nut
(183). as shown in Figure 42A.
! 2. Install a 3/16 x 3/8 bearing (116) with the teflon seal facing out,
in the back side of the left spindle. From the front side install the
bearing spacer (114F) followed by another 3/16 x 3/8 bearing teflon
seal facing out.
! 3. Insert the assembled MIP CVD (114D) through the bearings
in the left spindle. Install the MIP hex adapter (114H) over the axle
with the cut out section facing away from the bearing. Align the
holes in the hex adapter and axle and insert a 1/16 x 5/16 (roll) pin
(114G) through the two until flush on both sides.
! 4. Repeat steps 1-4 for the right spindle assembly.
92
114G
13
183
16
114H
Figure 42B
114F
Right
18
Left
BAG D (Continued)
Step D-7
Spindle To Spindle Carrier
80
13
140
13
80
114E
! 1. Attach the spindle (16) to the spindle carrier (18) by sliding the
CVD bone (114E) through the spindle carrier as illustrated in Figure
43. Line up the holes in the spindle and the spindle carrier. Thread a
kingpin screw (140) through the spindle and into the spindle carrier
from the top and bottom.
Figure 43
! 2. Place a 0.060 washer (13) over a 4-40 x 3/8 ball stud and thread
16
into the top of the left spindle carrier.
! 3. Repeat Steps 1-2 for the right spindle and carrier assembly.
Step D-8
140
18
140
Front Arm to Spindle & Carrier
81
80
16
Figure 44
140
! 1. Attach the left spindle and carrier assembly to the left front arm
18
(53) by aligning the holes in the spindle carrier (18) with the holes in
the front arm . Thread a kingpin screw (140) through the outer holes in
the front and back of the arm, and into the spindle carrier. Tighten the
screws.
53
You may have to un-tighten the screws 1/4 turn to allow free
movement of the spindle carrier on the arm.
! 3. Repeat Step 1 for the right arm to spindle carrier assembly.
140
Step D-9
Figure 45A
4
139
! 1. Thread a plastic rod end (4) onto each end of a 1.625" turnbuckle (139). Tighten both rod ends (4) equally until the rod is the
same length as the rod in Figure 45B. Make two of these tie rod
assemblies.
Each end of the turnbuckle is threaded opposite. The end
closest to the square shoulder has right-hand threads, the other has
left-hand threads. This allows the length of the rods, once installed,
to be adjusted without removing them.
Figure 45B
19
BAG D (Continued)
Step D-10
Turnbuckle - Front Shocktower
to Spindle Carrier
52
Figure 46
4
185
185
! 1. Place a "foam thing" (185) over the ball stud (80) located in the
top of the spindle carrier (18). Place a second "foam thing" over the
ball stud (107) located in the shocktower (52).
107
80
16
Assure that the drive end of the CVD bone is inserted in the
outdrive before attatching the turnbuckle.
! 2. Snap the end, closest to the shoulder, of the turnbuckle assembly to the ball stud in the spindle carrier. Snap the other end to the ball
stud in the shock tower.
! 3. Repeat 1-2 to attatch the other turnbuckle assembly to the
right spindle assembly.
Assure that the shoulder of the turnbuckle is located towards
the outside of the chassis for easier adjustment later.
Step D-11
4
Figure 47A
141
! 1. Thread a plastic rod end (4) onto each end of a 1.375" turnbuckle (141). Tighten both rod ends equally until the rod is the same
length as the assembled rod in Figure 47B. Make two of these assemblies.
Each end of the turnbuckle is threaded opposite. The end
closest to the square shoulder has right-hand threads, the other has
left-hand threads. This allows the length of the rods, once installed,
to be adjusted without removing them.
Step D-12
Figure 47B
Turnbuckle -Spindle To Bellcrank
Figure 48
4
81
! 1. Snap the end, closest to the shoulder, of the turnbuckle as-
16
sembly to the 1/4" ball stud (92) in the left spindle. Snap the other end
to the 3/16" ball stud (81) in the left bellcrank.
! 2. Repeat steps 1-2 to attach other turnbuckle to the right side
spindle and bellcrank.
30
185
92
20
BAG E
Step E-1
Rear Inner Pivot Install
Figure 49
46
134
! 1. Install left rear inner pivot block (54) by threading two 4-40 x
3/8" flat head screws (134) through the bottom of the chassis (46) into
the pivot block as indicated in Figure 49. Repeat for the right rear
inner pivot block (55).
54
134
Step E-2
Rear Arm Install
Figure 50A
135
102
69
135
! 1. Slide an inner hinge pin (102) through each of the two rear arms
farthest away from the shock mounting hole.
54
Before you tighten the main block it may be necessary to slightly
loosen the screws in the inner pivots about 1 full turn. Once this is
done, tighten the main block, followed by tightening the inner
pivots. This will ensure you get the correct pin angle in the arms
! 2. Insert the left arm (12) (Arms labled "L" and "R") into the left
inner rear pivot block (54). Repeat for the right arm (11) and capture
the rear arms by placing the rear main block (57) onto the inner hinge
pins as shown in the illustration in Figure 50B. Secure the rear main
block by threading two 4-40 x 1/2" flat head screws (135) through the
main block into the upper holes in the rear diff cover (69).
12
102
57
Figure 50B
ASSEMBLE MAIN BLOCK
IN THIS DIRECTION
21
BAG E (Continued)
Step E-3 Rear Shock Tower
Figure 51
131
182
133
107
182
! 1. Thread a short head ball stud (107) on each side of the shock
133
tower into the inside hole in the lowest set of holes.
! 2. Insert a 4-40 x 7/8" cap head screw (133), one on either side of
the shock tower (58) into the middle hole in the upper set of holes.
Secure the screws to the tower by threading a 4-40 zinc nut (182) over
each screw and tightening.
The screws should extend towards the recessed area in the rear
tower and face towards the front of the chassis.
! 3. Install the rear body mount (65) by aligning the mounting hole
in the body mount with the hole in the middle of the shock tower.
Secure the body mount by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" cap head screw
(131) through the shock tower and into the body mount as indicated
in Figure 51.
! 4. Install the rear wing mounts (63) by aligning the mounting
holes in the wing mounts with the holes to the side of the shock
tower. Secure the wing mounts by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" cap head
screw (131) through the shock tower and into the top and bottom of
the wing mounts as indicated in Figure 51 (Right side wing mount
installation not shown).
Step E-4
131
65
58
63
131
107
Rear Shock Tower Install
129
46
! 1. Attach the rear shock tower (58) to the rear of the chassis (46)
with four 4-40 x 1/2" cap head screws (129). The screws thread into
the top-most and bottom-most holes surrounding the posts, which
stick out of the rear of the chassis. The shock tower should interlock
with the posts on the chassis.
There is a short thread-cutting screw included in the wrench
bag. This screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the main
chassis. Pre-tapping these holes makes it easier to install the screws
during assembly.
129
58
Figure 52
22
BAG E (Continued)
Step E-5 Rear Hub Assembly
23
107
116
107
89
89
! 1. Thread a short head ball stud (107) into the inside hole of the
Figure 53
rear hub (23) as indicated in Figure 53.
! 2. Insert a 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (116) with the teflon seal facing
out, into the back-side of the hub carrier(23). From the front-side,
insert a bearing spacer (89) as illustrated in Figure 53. Capture the
spacer with a 3/16" x 3/8" bearing again with the teflon seal facing
out. Make two of these assemblies.
116
MIP CVD TABLE
MIP CVD KIT REAR XXX-4
PART # NAME
PART # NAME
113A Coupling
113E CVD Bone
113B Solid Pin
113F Roll Pin
113C Set Screw 113G 8-32 Locknut
113D Axle
*NOTE: See Table 54 for part numbers and name of all items
referred to in the MIP CVD kit for the rear of the XXX-4.
Table 54
Step E-6 CVD Dogbone/Axle
Figure 55
113A
113B
113C
MIP
THREAD
LOCK
(158)
! 1. Apply a thin coat of red MIP RED thrust bearing/ assembly
grease (157), (from the white tube), to the outside of the CVD coupling (113A). Insert the greased CVD coupling into the large hole in
the CVD Axle (113D) so that the cross-hole in the coupling can be
seen through the slots in the axle.
! 2. Place the CVD bone (113E) over the CVD axle. Align the holes
in the CVD bone with the hole in the CVD coupling. Secure all three
parts by inserting a 1/16" x 7/16" (solid) pin (113B) through the holes
in the CVD bone, the slots in the CVD axle, and the hole in the CVD
coupling.
! 3. Apply a small amount of Thread-lock compound (158), in the
black tube, to the 4-40 x 1/8"set screw (113C) before installing it.Center
the pin in the CVD dogbone and secure it by threading the set screw
into the end of the CVD coupling.
! 4. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the second CVD assembly.
113E
113C
113B
113A
113D
Apply the enclosed Thread-lock to the set screw before threading it into the CVD coupling. If Thread-lock is not used, the set
screw will loosen during operation. This will cause your car to stop
running.
23
MIP
RED
LUBE
(157)
BAG E (Continued)
Step E-7 CVD Dogbone/Axle to Rear Hub
113F
90
! 1. Slide the CVD through the 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (116) from the
23
113F
backside of the hub (23) until the shoulder of the axle (113D) stops at
the bearing. Slide the axle washer (90) over the axle up against the
outside bearing. Secure the axle and washer with a 1/16" x 5/16" (roll)
pin (113F) through the cross hole in the axle. The pin should be
centered in the axle. Repeat for the right rear hub (24) assembly.
Step E-8
113D
90
Figure 56
116
Rear Hub Install
Figure 57
23
88
115
13
115
! 1. Attach the left rear hub (23) assembly to the left rear arm (12)
by aligning the holes in the rear hub (23) with the holes in the rear arm.
Place one 0.060 rear hub spacer (13) on either side of the hub. Insert
a 1/8" x 1.350" hinge pin (88) through the arm into the hub as indicated in Figure 57.
! 2. Secure the hinge pin by placing an e-clip (115) on each side of
the hinge pin.
! 3. Repeat Steps 1-2 for the remaining right rear arm (11) and right
rear hub (24) assembly.
12
13
88
115
Step E-9
4
4
141
Figure 58A
! 1. Thread a plastic rod end (4) onto each end of a 1.375" turnbuckle (141). Tighten both rod ends equally until the rod is the same
length as the assembled rod in Figure 58B. Make two of these assemblies.
141
Each end of the turnbuckle is threaded opposite. The end
closest to the square shoulder has right-hand threads, the other has
left-hand threads. This allows the length of the rods, once installed,
to be adjusted without removing them.
Figure 58B
24
BAG E (Continued)
Step E-10 Turnbuckle - Rear Shock tower to
Figure 59
Rear hub
! 1. Place a "foam thing" (185) over the ball stud (107) in the rear
58
hub (23). Place a second "foam thing" over the ball stud in the rear
shock tower (58).
107
23
Assure that the drive end of the CVD bone is inserted in the
outdrive before attatching the turnbuckle.
! 2. Snap the end closest to the shoulder of the turnbuckle assembly to the ball stud in the left rear hub. Snap the other end to the ball
stud in the rear shock tower. Repeat Steps 1-2 to attach the other
tunbuckle assembly to the right rear hub (24) assembly.
185
Assure that the shoulder of the turnbuckle is located towards
the outside of the chassis for easier adjustment later.
Step E-11
4
Battery Post Install
131
! 1. Install the battery mount posts (68) to the chassis (46), as shown, by placing the square base of the post in the countersunk pockets on
the drivers right side of the chassis.
! 2. Thread a 4-40 x 3/8" cap head screw (131) through the bottom of the chassis into each of the battery mounting posts and tighten.
! 3. One Body Clip (124) will be inserted into the holes on the top of each Battery Post at a later step in this manual.
68
Figure 60
46
131
25
BAG F
Step F-1 Cartrige Assembly:
6
73
7
! 1. Place one shock O-ring (73) into the cartridge body (5), making
sure that the O-ring sits flat in the bottom of the cartridge body.
! 2. Insert the cartridge spacer (7) into the cartridge body followed
by a second O-ring.
! 3. Once the second O-ring is inserted, and is flush with the top of
the cartridge body, press the cartridge cap (6) onto the cartridge body.
! 4. Make four cartridge assemblies.
7
73
5
Figure 61
Cartridges in some kits may be pre-assembled at the factory.
Step F-2 Shock Shaft Assy:
13
8
79
78
83
8
! 1. Place a "A" spacer (8) on each of the front shock shafts.
! 2. Place a drop of shock fluid (189) on the grooved end of each
13
8
shock shaft (79, 83) and slide a cartridge, hex end first, down the
shock shaft towards the threads on all four shafts as shown in
Figure 62.
! 3. Using pliers or small vise grips, grasp the shock shaft between
the grooves and thread a shock end (2) all the way onto the shaft until
the threads stop. Do this for all shock shafts.
! 4. Place one "B" Spacer (8) and one 0.060 spacer (13) on each rear
shock shaft above the shock cartridge cap (6).
! 5. Carefully snap a 1/4" shock mount ball (78) into each of the
shock ends on each of the four shock shafts.
5
Figure 62
83
79
2
Front
Rear
78
Step F-3 Shock Piston Install:
9
Figure 63
115
14
115
79
83
! 1. Snap a 1/8" E-clip (115) into the groove closest to the cartridge
on both front and rear shock shafts (79,83).
! 2. Slide a "black", #57 shock piston (14) onto the front shock
shafts (79) until the piston rests against the E-clip. Secure the pistons
to the shafts with a second E-clip. These will be used on the front.
! 3. Slide an "red" #56 shock piston (9) onto each of the rear shock
shafts (83) until the piston rests against the E-clip. Secure the pistons
to the shafts with a second E-clip. These will be the rear shocks.
13
8
8
Front
26
Rear
BAG F (Continued)
Step F-4 Shock Fluid
Figure 64
! 1. Match the short, front shock bodies (84) to the short front
shafts (79), and the long, rear shock bodies (85) to the long rear
shafts (83).
! 2. Fill the front shock body (84) with 30wt.shock fluid (189) up to
the bottom of the threads inside the shock body.
! 3. Insert the front shaft assembly with the cartridge against the
shock piston. Slowly tighten the cartridge about two full turns only.
With the cartridge still slightly loose, slowly push the shock shaft
assembly into the shock body. This will bleed the excess fluid out of
the shock. Once the shaft assembly is all the way down, tighten the
shock cartridge the rest of the way. Repeat this for the remaining front
shock assembly and the two rear shock assemblies.
79 83
Be sure to keep the front and rear shock assemblies separated
until they are assembled to the chassis.
189
84 85
! 4. Now, with the shaft assembly still all the way in, secure the
cartridge by tightening with pliers or a 7/16" wrench approximately
1/8 of a turn. There should be no air in the shocks as you move the
shaft (79) in and out. If there is you need more fluid. If the shock does
not compress all the way, the shock has too much fluid. Repeat for the
remaining shock assemblies.
If leaking persists around the outside, tighten the cartridge.
Step F-5 Shock Assembly:
1
1
131
131
121
131
122
! 1. Snap a shock spring cup (3) onto each of the four shock shafts
(79, 83) and push down onto the Shock End (2) until it stops.
! 2. Slide a 2" green spring (121) down over each of the two front
shock assemblies so that it rests against the shock cup.
! 3. Slide a 2.5" pink spring (122) down over each of the two rear
shock assemblies so that it rests against the shock cup.
! 4. Insert a 4-40 x 3/8" cap head screw (131) into the larger hole of
each the four shock collars (1) and thread it into the smaller hole.
! 5. With the collar loose, slide it down over the top of each shock
body (84, 85) and against the shock spring. Tighten the collar to hold
it in place.
Do not overtighten!
Figure 65
84
85
Front
3
8
Rear
79
2
27
3
83
2
BAG F (Continued)
Step F-6 Rear Shock Install
Figure 66
133
184
129
25
25
184
! 1. Position the bottom of an assembled rear shock in front of the
shock mounting area on the left rear suspension arm (12) as shown in
Figure 66. Align the hole in the shock mount ball (78) with the inside
hole in the arm.
! 2. Attach the shock to the rear arm by threading a 4-40 x 1/2" cap
head screw (129) through the shock mount ball and all the way into
the inside hole of the suspension arm.
! 3. Slide a "long" shock mount bushing (25), large side first, over
the screw (133) on the left side of the tower.
85
Before attaching the top of the shock, make sure that the
dogbone is in place in the outdrive.
! 4. Place the top of the shock body (85) over the shock mount
bushing. Secure the shock to the tower by threading a 4-40 locknut
(184) onto the shock mount screw.
! 5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the right rear shock assembly.
12
129
78
Step F-7 Front Shock Install
26
130
26
184
84
129
184
! 1. Position the bottom of an assembled front shock in front of the
shock mounting area on the left front suspension arm (53) as shown
in Figure 67. Align the hole in the shock mount ball (78) with the
inside hole in the arm (53).
! 2. Secure the shock to the arm by threading a 4-40 x 1/2" cap head
screw (129) all the way into the arm from the front.
! 3. Slide a "short" shock bushing (26), large side first, over the
screw (130) on the left side of the front shock tower.
Once again, before attaching the top of the shock, make sure
that the dogbone is in place in the outdrive.
! 4. Place the top of the front shock body (84) over the shock
mount bushing on the tower. Secure the shock assembly to the tower
by threading a 4-40 locknut (184) onto the shock mount screw.
! 5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the right shock assembly.
129
78
53
Figure 67
28
BAG G
Step G-1
Tire Mounting and Installation
114J
113G
! 1. Inspect the inside of the front (76) and rear (75) tires for any excess material. If present, trim the excess rubber to ensure proper seating
of the tire on the front (22) and rear (21) wheel.
!
Do not set the tires on furniture as they may leave permanent stains!
2. Locate the two narrow (188) front, and two wide (187) rear foam tire inserts.
IMPORTANT NOTE:The tires included with the XXX-4 are not directional, but you should install each of the tires to the
wheels in one direction. When installed correctly, the writing on all four tires will face towards the outside of the rim when mounted onto
the car. This will place the rib in the tread pattern towards the outside as well.
! 3. Install the foam tire inserts into the tires. Pull the tire over the wheel and squeeze the tire to properly seat it into the grooves of the wheel.
Make certain that the tire insert is not pinched between the tire and the wheel.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Always wear eye protection, a mask, and always read and follow the manufacturer's safety warnings
regarding the use of any adhesives.
! 4. The tires should now be glued to the wheels. This can be done by using a fast-curing superglue or cyanoacrylate glue available at your
local hobby shop. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly before continuing. Team Losi Tread Lock Tire Glue (A-7880 "Thick", A-7881 "Thin") is the
best glue available for gluing R/C car tires. This glue was produced specifically for this purpose.
! 5. Attach a wheel to the left rear axle by lining up the pin in the axle with the pin slot in the wheel.
! 6. Secure the rear wheel by threading an 8-32 locknut (113G), (supplied with your CVD kit), onto the rear axle and tighten.
! 7. Repeat Steps 5-6 for the remaining tire assemblies also using an 8-32 locknut (114J) (supplied with your front CVD kit) to secure the front
wheels.
75
Figure 68
187
21
113G
76
188
22
Front
114J
29
Rear
BAG H
Step H-1
Front Bumper Install
Figure 69
131
132
132
131
46
! 1. Holding the car upside-down install the front bumper (59) by
lining up the holes in the fork of the front bumper with the holes in the
chassis (46). It should rest on the front diff cover (62). Secure the
front bumper by threading two 4-40 x 1/4" flat head screws (132)
through the chassis into the two holes in the back of the front bumper
as indicated in Figure 69.
! 2. Thread two 4-40 x 3/8" cap head screws (131) through the front
bumper into the front diff cover.
62
Step H-2
Rear Bumper Install
Figure 70
134
134
60
! 1. Install the rear bumper (60) by lining up the forks of the rear
bumper with the back of the chassis (46). Thread two 4-40 x 3/8" flat
head screws (134) through the rear bumper into the holes in the rear
diff cover(69) as indicated in Figure 70 and tighten.
46
69
30
59
BAG H (Continued)
Step H-3
Motor Plate Install
Figure 71
147
! 1. Place the motor mount (93) against the motor (not included)
so that the shaft on the motor is centered in the large hole in the motor
plate and the flat surface of the motor plate rests against the motor.
Align the holes in the motor mount with the holes in the motor as
indicated in Figure 71.
! 2. Secure the motor mount to the motor by threading the two
3mm x 6mm Button Head screws (147) through the two holes in the
motor plate, and tightening.
If there are two sets of holes in the motor, thread the screws into
the set of holes that will allow the power tabs to face the speed
control (ESC) with the motor in its lowest position in the chassis.
This is the optimal location for your vehicle.
! 3. Attach the pinion gear (not included) to the motor shaft with
the tooth section of the gear away from the motor as shown.
Step H-4
150
93
147
Motor Install
94
Figure 72
144
144
! 1. Press two threaded inserts (94) into the bottom of the chassis
93
(46) in the holes with the hex. Be sure that you line up the hex on the
insert with the hex in the bottom of the chassis. The inserts should be
installed in the direction shown in Figure 72.
! 2. Install the motor mount, with the motor attached, in the groove
on the left side of the chassis. Check alignment of the pinion gear
with the spur gear (71). If the two gears don't align properly, remove
the motor and adjust the position of the pinion gear. Check again for
proper alignment.
! 3. Once the pinion gear is properly aligned with the spur gear,
place the motor clamp (41) over the motor plate as shown. Slide a ball
stud washer (150) over each of the 4-40 x 1.5" cap head screws (144).
Thread a 4-40 x 1.5" cap head screw through the two holes in the
motor clamp into the threaded inserts in the chassis, but don't tighten
the screws yet. Check the gear mesh through the opening in the right
side of the chassis. To adjust the gear mesh, rotate the motor - counterclockwise to loosen the gear mesh; and clockwise to tighten the gear
mesh. Once the gear mesh has been adjusted, tighten the motor clamp
screws.
150
41
71
46
74
The gears need a small amount of backlash in order to function
properly.
! 4. Insert the rectangular, gear mesh access plug (74), bevelled
side first, in the opening on the right side of the chassis.
94
31
BAG H (Continued)
Step H-5
Battery Strap Install
The battery strap can be mounted in one of two ways to
accommodate different styles of batteries. If you will be running
matched-type cells, or individual cells laid out side-by-side, the TL
logo should be facing away from the top of the chassis as shown in
Figure 73 "B". If, however, you are using a pre-assembled stick pack,
the TL logo should be facing down towards the top of the chassis as
shown in Figure 73 "A".
! 1. Once the battery pack (not included) is installed, the plastic
battery strap (28) will hold the batteries in place. The battery strap
(28) slides over the two posts (68) on the right side of the chassis (46).
The strap is secured to the post with a body clip (124) at each end.
Step H-6
124
A
68
28
Figure 73
124
B
Receiver/Antenna Install
138
72
151
! 1. Cut a piece of two-sided tape (148) to the same size as the
Figure 74
bottom of the receiver (not included). Peel one side of the backing
off and stick the tape to the bottom of the receiver.
! 2. Make sure that the area on the chassis (46), between the motor
and the servo, is clean. Wipe this area off with a clean cloth or rag.
Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean any oily residue that
may be present on the chassis or receiver. Allow the alcohol to dry
before applying the two-sided tape.
! 3. Peel the backing off the the two-sided tape and install the
receiver to the left side of the chassis, between the motor and servo,
with the antenna wire exiting the receiver towards the center of the
car as shown in Figure 74.
! 4. Run the antenna up the center rib, in the chassis, through the
antenna mount (66) into the small hole. Press the antenna mount into
the hole in the top of the center rib in the chassis. Slide the antenna
wire through the antenna tube (120) so that the wire comes out the
other end of the tube.
! 5. While pulling the wire through the antenna tube, slide the
antenna tube down and push it firmly into the antenna mount on the
main chassis.
! 6. Fold the wire down over the antenna tube and place the antenna cap (72) over the tube and excess wire as shown in Figure 74.
! 7. Run the receiver wire from your speed controller in the channel
along the side of the chassis. Hold the wire in place by first placing a
#4 washer (151) over two 4-40 x 1/4 button head screws (138) and
threading them into the chassis. Becareful not to pinch the wire or
overtighten the screws.
120
46
66
138
151
138
If antenna wire is shorter than the tube, remove the tube and
cut off enough of the tube so that the wire will extend about 3/4"
past the end of the tube. DO NOT cut off any excess antenna wire.
Doing so may cause you car to "glitch".
32
BAG H (Continued)
Step H-7
Gear Cover Installation
Figure 75B
138
! 1. Locate the gear cover (191) and cut the bottom side of it along
Figure 75A
the trim line as shown in gray in Figure 75B. Drill three 1/8" mounting
holes in the gear cover at the three locations marked with dimples.
! 2. Place the trimmed gear cover over the spur gear (71) and secure it with three 4-40 x 1/4" button head screws (138) through the
three open holes in the top of the chassis (46).
138
191
You may opt. to run the ESC wires through the gear cover with
the small cut-out on the bottom of the gear cover shown in Figure
75A. If you will be running the wires over the gear cover you should
leave that material there.
46
It is recomended that you do not run the ESC wires through the
gear cover when running your XXX-4 in extrememly dusty conditions.
Step H-8
Body Mounting
Wing (192)
124
Figure 76
! 1. Trim the body (192) and wing along the trim lines as shown.
! 2. Once the perimeter of the body is cut, locate the three dimples
Body (192)
in the body used for mounting (two in the front, and one in the rear)
and locate the dimple for the antenna tube. Drill each of them to 3/16"
diameter holes.
! 3. Now locate the three recessed circular section on each side in
the front of the body. Remove the inner circular section creating
holes for ventilation.
! 3. Align the holes in the body with the body mounts and attatch
the body to the rolling chassis using three body clips (124).
33
BAG H (Continued)
Step H-9
Wing Installation
67
67
124
192
! 1. Make two 3/16" diameter holes in the wing (192) where the
dimples are located.
! 2. Align the holes in the rear wing with the wing mounts on the
rear shock tower.
! 3. Secure the wing to the wing mounts by first placing a wing
washer (67) over the mount ontop of the wing and then inserting a
body clip (124) in each hole.
124
Figure 77
34
FINAL CHECKLIST
BEFORE RUNNING YOUR NEW XXX-4 Buggy for the first time, you should run down the following checklist — in order —
and complete the listed tasks. I'm sure you're anxious to get out and run your new XXX-4 now that it's built, but following this
simple checklist will help to make your first run with your new car much more enjoyable.
1. Adjust the differential
While holding the chassis with only the left side tires firmly
on the ground give the car about a quarter throttle for ten
seconds. The right side tires should spin freely during this
time. Repeat this with the right side tires held firmly to the
ground allowing the left tires to spin. Feel the diff action
and tighten slightly if necessary.
2. Check for free suspension movement
All suspension arms should move freely. Any binds will
cause the car to handle poorly. The steering should also
operate very freely.
3. Set the ride height
Adjust the chassis ride height so that the rear arms are
sitting at level. Make the front a little lower than the rear.
4. Set the camber
Both front tires should have 2 degrees of negative camber, and both rear tires should have 1 degree of negative
camber (Top of the tire leans in). It is critical that both
front tires and both rear tires be adjusted the same.
5. Set the front toe-in
Adjust the front tie rods so that, when the steering is straight
on the transmitter, the front tires are both pointing straight.
It is recommended that you start with the front toe-in set
to zero (no toe-in or toe-out).
6. Charge a battery pack
Charge a battery pack as per battery manufacturer's and/
or charger manufacturer's instructions so that
radio adjustments can be made. Never plug the battery
backwards into the speed control.
7. Adjust the speed control
Following the manufacturer's instructions, adjust your
speed control, and set the throttle trim on your ESC so
the the car does not creep forward when not applying
throttle. Make sure that there is not too much brake being
applied when the trigger/stick is in the neutral position.
Some speed controls have a high/low setting for the
throttle.
8. Set transmitter steering trim
The steering trim tab on the transmitter should be adjusted so that the car rolls straight when you are not touching the steering wheel/stick. If the servo was installed
correctly, as per Tables 31A and 31B, the wheels should
turn equally to the left and right. If this is not the case,
refer to Table 31B and ensure that the steering servo and
rod (Figure 34 and 35) were properly installed. Make sure
the throttle trim is set so that the motor does not run when
in the neutral position. You may wish to run one "click" of
brake to be safe.
TIPS AND HINTS FROM THE TEAM
Before you start making changes on your XXX-4 Buggy you need to make a few decisions. Tires and how they are set-up have
a tremendous impact on overall performance. Before you start making changes on the chassis take a moment to observe a few
of the fastest cars and what type of tire and inner liner they are running. Also note the wheel diameter and width as this can also
effect how the tires perform. When making chassis changes you should first decide where you feel the car needs to be different.
This is commonly referred to as changing the "balance". Since the XXX-4 is a four-wheel drive chassis you have two ends of the
car working separately yet together. First decide if the front of the car needs to be adjusted or the back. You will want to work with
the rear if the car enters the turn with the front end sticking and tracking well while the rear end either does not want to follow or
simply doesn't know what it wants to do. The opposite is true if the rear end seems to want to push the front end through the
corners or the front dives into the corner uncontrollably. You will notice that several different adjustments have similar effects on
the handling as well. You will find the best adjustment will become a personal decision based on the "feel" that each of these
adjustments yield. This also reflects on the "balance" we referred to earlier. Never make more than one change at a time. If the
change you made works adversely or doesn't address your need return to the stock position and try something else. Team Losi's
development team has put hundreds of hours on the XXX-4 to arrive at the set-up we put in the instruction manual. If you find that
you have lost the "handle" go back to the kit (stock) set-up as this has proven to be reliable, consistant, and easy to drive.
35
Front End:
Shock Location: Leaning the shocks in (mounting them closer to the center of the tower) will give a smoother transition as you
enter into turns and improve consistency but will yield less total steering and give a slower reaction. This might be helpful on high
bite surfaces. Standing the shocks up (mounting them further out from the center of the tower) will increase responsiveness and
generate more total steering. Forward traction is also increased, as is on-power steering. When moving the shocks to a more
upright position you may find that you will have to change to a softer spring to smooth out the reaction. This might work well on
shorter more technical tracks.
Toe-in/Out: is the parallel relationship of front tires to one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing the total length
of the steering rods. If the front tires appear to be pointing inward to a spot in front of the car (toe-in) you can expect the car to
react a little slower but have a little more steering from the middle of the turn out. The opposite is true if the front tires appear to
be pointing to points in front and to either side of the car (toe-out). This (toe-out) will make the car turn into the corner better but
will allow less steering from the middle of the corner out.
Camber Link: Making the camber link shorter (moving it further away from the center of the tower) tends to give more offpower steering into the turn but can also make the steering feel a bit erratic. Making the camber link longer (moving it closer to the
center of the tower) will slow down the reaction of the steering but will make the chassis more forgiving.
Camber; refers to the angle of the wheels/tires in relation to the track surface when viewed from the front or back. Negative
camber means that the top of the tire leans inward toward the chassis. Positive camber means the top of the tire leans out away
from the chassis. You should never need to run positive camber and will always want to run at least a little negative camber. You
can use any square object to check this by placing it so one edge is flat on the surface and the other is up against the outer surface
of the wheel. There should always be at least a slight gap at the top of the wheel (negative camber). There should never be a gap
at the bottom of the wheel (positive camber). Adding 1 degree front camber will typically increase steering.
Front Kickup/Anti-dive; is the angle of the front arms in relation to the track surface. The kickup is controlled by the pivot
blocks that mount the inner hinge pins of the front suspension arms to the chassis. You have three options with the included
mounts, 5, 7.5, and 10 degrees. The front is marked with a "5" and a "10" at the middle of the surface facing forward. If this block
is mounted with the "5" readable, there is 5 degrees of kickup, if the "10" is readable, then there is 10 degrees of kickup. The other
included pivot block is labeled "7.5" and gives 7.5 degrees of kickup. The "10" setting is best for bumpy surfaces and makes the car
very forgiving. As you reduce the amount of kickup the steering will get more aggressive entering the turn. Reducing this will also
improve front braking traction entering turns but will reduce the chassis' ability to handle bumpy surfaces.
Caster; is the angle of the kingpin from vertical when viewed from the side. You will always run 10 degrees of positive caster
where the top of the kingpin leans back toward the rear of the car. Total caster is determined by adding the amount of kickup and
the amount of kingpin inclination of the front spindle carriers. The stock spindle carriers in the kit are 10 degree, which mean the
total caster is determined by the kickup. Reducing total caster will give less off power steering while giving more on power
steering on exit. More caster will give greater steering into the turn but less steering as you exit.
Front Diff: Running the diff a little tighter will give less off power turn-in but increase on power steering as you exit a turn.
Running it a little looser will give more initial turn-in but make the car want to "push" (lose steering) on exit.
Ride Height; is the height of the chassis in relation to the track surface. Initially, set the front just below the rear ride hight (arms
at level). This will work well on most bumpy surfaces. This will also generate more weight transfer and chassis roll, which can
help on slick surfaces. Lowering the ride height will make the car change direction quicker and should be helpful on high traction
surfaces.
Chassis/Drivetrain
Battery Position: Moving the battery pack forward will give more steering and less rear traction. Moving the pack to the rear
will increase rear traction and diminish steering slightly. Splitting the pack leaving an empty space in the middle will have various
effects depending on the traction and size of the track.
36
Belt Tension; can be run a little looser on long tracks and with stock motors. It is normal for the belt to skip (2 or 3 clicks) under
heavy braking without doing harm to the belt. Do not run the belt too loose or it will drag on the chassis and bottom cover hurting
performance.
Slipper Adjustment
IMPORTANT NOTE! The slipper adjustment on the XXX-4 is crucial to the life of the
drivetrain. If the slipper adjustment is set too loose, the car will not have proper accelleration and will create excessive
heat in the drivetrain components which could lead to failure. If the slipper adjustment is set too tight the drivetrain will
experience excessive loads that can also lead to drivetrain failure. When properly adjusted, the slipper should slip for
about 2 feet on a carpet or high traction surface.
Loosening the Slipper; insert the slipper wrench on the slipper flange and position the car with the REAR end closest to you.
Hold the slipper wrench with your right hand while holding the right rear tire down with your right arm. Pick up the left rear tire
and rotate towards you slowly.
Tightening the Slipper; insert the slipper wrench on the slipper flange and position the car with the FRONT end closest to you.
Hold the slipper wrench with your right hand and hold down the left front tire (your right side) with your right arm. Pick up the
right front tire and rotate towards you slowly.
Back End:
Shock Location: Leaning the shocks in (toward the center of the tower) frees up the back end of the car, allowing easier rotation
in the turn. This might be helpful for fast flowing tracks where corner speed is critical. Moving the shocks out (away from the
center of the tower) will give more forward traction but slows the initial reaction into the turn with a more abrupt rear rotation.
This can be good for tight tracks.
Camber Link: Moving the rear camber link to the outside position (shorter) on the tower and/or the inside position of the hub, will
give more traction and chassis roll but less steering and stability. This should also carry more corner speed and help on slick
surfaces. Moving the camber link to the inside position (longer) will increase stability but slow down rear rotation. Moving the link
to the outside position on the hub will give similar results to moving the link farther inside on the tower.
Rear Toe-in: There is 2 degrees of toe-in per side stock. Adding toe-in will create more forward traction and make the car freer
on entering a turn. This is good for slick surfaces. Too much toe-in will make the car twitchy and hard to drive.
Camber; refers to the angle of the wheels/tires in relation to the track surface when viewed from the front or back. Negative
camber means that the top of the tire leans inward toward the chassis. Positive camber means the top of the tire leans out away
from the chassis.
Anti-Squat; is like the "kick-up" at the front except it works slightly different. Marked and used like the front, you can choose
from 1, and 3 degrees of anti-squat (pin angle) and 1 degree of pro-squat. 1 degree pro-squat is the starting point. Adding (from
+1, 1, 3, degrees) will reduce rear grip and allow easier rotation into a turn and increase the traction out of the turn. This is good
for slicker track surfaces.
Rear Hub Spacing: Spacing the hubs forward (spacers behind the hub) will give more forward grip and initiate the entrance into
turns off power and less off-power steering. Moving the arms back (spacers at the front of the hub) will give less forward grip and
slow down initial reaction into turns and more on-power steering.
Overdrive/ Underdrive: In bag H you received a 41T pulley for you XXX-4. This allows you to over-drive (make the front tires
turn faster) or underdrive (make the front tires turn slower) the car. Using the 41T pulley in the front of your car will give you
overdrive. This will give the car less offpower steering and will give you more steering exiting the turn. Running the 41T pulley in
the rear will underdrive the car. This will give you more steering entering the turn and less exiting the turn. If you do mix up your
pulleys, you can distinguish the 41T from the 42T by looking for a ridge in the side of the flange on your 42T pulley. The 41T pulley
does not have any type of marking on the flange area (the 41T pulley is also marked with a black line on the flange).
We are sure that you will find the XXX-4 Buggy to be the most versatile and easiest car to drive fast with great consistency. We
at Team Losi hope this information helps you to enjoy your XXX-4 Buggy and racing as much as we do. For the latest in setup and
accessory parts information, visit the Team Losi website at: www.TeamLosi.com and go to the "Meet the Team" tab on the left
side of the page. All your questions will be answered in the order received to the best of our knowledge by our own Team Losi
R&D race team.
37
SPARE PARTS LIST
KEY #
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
SHOCK COLLAR
SHOCK END
SHOCK CUP
ROD-ENDS ADJUSTABLE/30
SHOCK CARTRIDGE BODY/SNAP
SHOCK CARTRIDGE CAP/SNAP
SHOCK CARTRIDGE SPACER
A AND B SHOCK SPACER
SHOCK PISTON RED #56
SHORT, 30 DEGREES ROD-END
RIGHT REAR ARM
LEFT REAR ARM
REAR HUB SPACER
SHOCK PISTON #57
RIGHT SPINDLE ARM
LEFT SPINDLE ARM
SPINDLE CARRIER, RIGHT
SPINDLE CARRIER, LEFT
MOLDED OUTDRIVE, MALE
MOLDED OUTDRIVE, FEMALEREAR WHEEL
FRONT WHEEL
HUB LEFT
HUB RIGHT
LONG SHOCK BUSHING
SHORT SHOCK BUSHING
DIFF NUT CARRIER
BATTERY STRAP
STEERING TUNNEL
LEFT BELLCRANK
RIGHT BELLCRANK
DRAG LINK
STEERING BUSHINGS
SERVO MOUNT-A
SERVO MOUNT-B
SERVO SAVER BASE 23T
SERVO SAVER BASE 24T
SRVO SAVER BASE 25T
SERVO SAVER OUTER
SERVO SAVER WASHER
MOTOR MOUNT STRAP
42T DIFF PULLEY
41T DIFF PULLEY
IDLER PULLEY
42T DIFF PULLEY FLANGE
CHASSIS
LEFT FRONT INNER PIVOT
RIGHT FRONT INNER PIVOT
PIVOT BALL
FRONT MAIN PIVOT 7.5 DEG
FRONT MAIN PIVOT 5-10 DEG
FRONT SHOCK TOWER
FRONT ARM L/R
LEFT REAR INNER PIVOT
RIGHT REAR INNER PIVOT
REAR MAIN PIVOT 1 DEG
REAR MAIN PIVOT 1-3 DEG
PART NO.
A-5023
A-5023
A-5023
A-6005
A-5015
A-5015
A-5015
A-5015
A-5046
A-6010
A-2131
A-2131
A-2127
A-5045
A-1216
A-1216
A-1216
A-1216
A-3097
A-3097
A-7104
A-7047
A-2228
A-2228
A-5013
A-5013
A-2909
A-4240
A-4210
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-1540
A-4216
A-3211
A-3211
A-3211
A-3211
A-4202
A-1232
A-1232
A-6053
A-1232
A-1232
A-1205
A-1211
A-2232
A-2232
A-2232
A-2232
38
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
Spring Clamps & Cups
Spring Clamps & Cups
Spring Clamps & Cups
H.D. 30 Degree Plastic Rod Ends
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
Teflon Shock Piston #56,Red
Short, 30 Degree, Plastic Rod End
Rear Suspension Arms XXCR, XX-4, XXX, XXX-4
Rear Suspension Arms XXCR, XX-4, XXX, XXX-4
CR Rear Hub Spacer
Teflon Shock Piston #57,(Black)
Front Spindles & Carriers XX4/XXX-4
Front Spindles & Carriers XX4/XXX-4
Front Spindles & Carriers XX4/XXX-4
Front Spindles & Carriers XX4/XXX-4
Molded Out-Drive Set
Molded Out-Drive Set
Solid Face Rear Wheels,Yellow
Solid Face Front Wheels,Yellow
Rear Hub Carrier 0deg (XXX/T/4)
Rear Hub Carrier 0deg (XXX/T/4)
Upper Shock Mount Bushings
Upper Shock Mount Bushings
"Monster Diff" Adjustment Screw & Hardware
Battery Strap & Droop Gauge
Chassis Bottom Cover Set XXX-4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Steering Bellcranks,Servo Saver & Mounts XXX-S/4
Motor Mount Clamp XXX-S/4
Pulley Set Front and Rear Idler XXX-S/4
Pulley Set Front and Rear Idler XXX-S/4
Pulley Set Front and Rear Idler XXX-S/4
Pulley Set Front and Rear Idler XXX-S/4
Main Chassis XXX-4
Front Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Front Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Molded Suspension Pivot Balls
Front Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Front Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Front Shock Tower XXX-4
Front Suspension Arms XXX-4
Rear Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Rear Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Rear Pivot Support Set XXX-4
Rear Pivot Support Set XXX-4
SPARE PARTS LIST
KEY #
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
113G
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
REAR SHOCK TOWER
FRONT BUMPER
REAR BUMPER
BOTTOM CHASSIS COVER
FRONT DIFF COVER
WING MOUNT
FRONT BODY MOUNT
REAR BODY MOUNT
ANTENNA MOUNT
WING MOUNT WASHER
BATTERY POST
REAR DIFF COVER
SLIPPER DRIVE PULLEY, 20T
SLIPPER SPUR GEAR 92T
ANTENNA TIP COVER
INTERNAL O-RING (CARTRIDGE)
MOTOR MESH WINDOW
TIRE, REAR
TIRE, FRONT
DRIVE BELT
BALL JOINT, .250 X .093
SHOCK SHAFT - .6"
BALL STUD .168 X .38
BALL STUD.168 X .188
3/32 DIFF BALLS
SHOCK SHAFT - 1.200
SHOCK BODY, SHORT-HRD
SHOCK BODY, X-LONG-HRD
DIFF TUBE
OUTDRIVE CUP, STEEL
HINGE PIN
BEARING SPACER - ALUM
AXLE WASHER - ALUM
MACHINED DIFF SCREW
BALL STUD 4-40 X 1/4
MOTOR MOUNT
FRONT PIVOT TH'D INSERT
BALLS, CHROME STEEL 5/64"
BELT TENSIONER BUSHING
STEERING POST
IDLER PULLEY SHAFT
TOP SHAFT
CARRIER/ STEERING BUSHING
HINGE PIN FRONT INNER
HINGE PIN, REAR INNER
SLIPPER HUB
SLIPPER PLATE
SLIPPER FLANGE
SLIPPER BEARING SPACER
BALL STUD, SHORT NECK .2"
DIFF RING
ASSEMBLY WRENCH #2
BELT TENSIONER ARM
SERVO SAVER SPRING SM
SERVO SAVER SPRING LG
CVD KIT REAR
8-32 Locknut
PART NO.
A-2205
A-4219
A-4219
A-4210
A-4214
A-4221
A-4221
A-4221
A-4221
A-4221
A-4221
A-4214
A-3269
A-3958
A-4003
A-5014
A-3244
A-7372R
A-7285R
A-3213
A-2006
A-5004
A-6000
A-6001
A-6951
A-5022
A-5029
A-5031
A-3072
A-3073
A-1141
A-9941
A-9941
A-2909
A-6006
A-3226
A-4224
A-3099
A-3238
A-1542
A-3239
A-3238
A-1233
A-6064
A-6066
A-3266
A-3266
A-3266
A-3265
A-6008
A-3070
A-6030
A-3239
A-1542
A-1542
A-9923
A-6310
39
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
Rear Shock Tower XXX-4
Front & Rear Bumper Set XXX-4
Front & Rear Bumper Set XXX-4
Bottom Chassis cover XXX-4
Front & Rear Diff Cover Set
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Front & Rear Diff Cover Set
Slipper Drive Pulley XXX-4
92T 48P Spur Gear (Slipper) XXX-4
Antenna Caps
O-Rings For Shock Cartridge
Access Plugs
Rear 2.2" Taper Pin Tires (Red) w/Liner
Front Taper Pin Tires (Red) w/Liner
Main Drive Belt XXX-4
Swivel Suspension Balls
Front Shock Shaft,Short .6"
Rod Ends w/Balls,4-40 x 3/8
Ball Studs w/Ends, 4-40 x 3/16
Carbide Balls,3/32
Shock Shaft 1.2"
Anodized Shock Body, .6"
Anodized Shock Body, 1.2"
Tranny Diff Tube
Trans OutDrive Cup
Front Bulkhead Pin Set
Bearing Spacer/Axle Washer Set
Bearing Spacer/Axle Washer Set
Diff Screw,Hardware & Seal Set
Ball Studs w/Ends, 4-40 x 1/4
Motor Mount & Screws
Chassis Inserts, Short/Long
Full Thrust Bearing Set
Top Shaft Set w/Hardware
Steering & Servo Saver Hardware
Belt Tensioner,Post & Hrdwre
Top Shaft Set w/Hardware
Spindle Carrier Bushings & Hardware
Hinge Pin 1.8" XXX-4
Hinge Pin 2.125" XXX-4
Slipper Hub, Plate & Flange XXX-4
Slipper Hub, Plate & Flange XXX-4
Slipper Hub, Plate & Flange XXX-4
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
Studded Balls (.2 Short Neck) W/Ends
Tranny Drive Rings
Assembly Wrench
Belt Tensioner,Post & Hardware
Steering & Servo Saver Hardware
Steering & Servo Saver Hardware
CVD Set XX, XXX/4
8-32 Aluminum Locknuts
SPARE PARTS LIST
KEY #
114
114J
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
172
176
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
CVD KIT FRONT
8-32 Locknut
E-CLIP, 1/8"
3/16 X 3/8 BEARING
BEARING,5M X 8M X 2.5M
BEARING,1/2 X 3/4 X 5/32
3/16X5/16 SEALED BRNG
ANTENNA TUBE
FRONT SPRING
REAR SPRING
SLIPPER SPRING
BODY CLIP
1/16 ALLEN WRENCH
3/32 ALLEN WRENCH STD
5/64 ALLEN WRENCH STD.
.050 ALLEN WRENCH
4-40 X 1/2 CAPHEAD
4-40 X 3/4 CAPHEAD
4-40 X 3/8 CAPHEAD
4-40 X 1/4 FLATHEAD
4-40 X 7/8 CAPHEAD
4-40 X 3/8 FLATHEAD
4-40 X 1/2 FLATHEAD
4-40 X 5/8 CAPHEAD
SET SCREW, #4-40 X 5/8
4-40 X 1/4 BUTTONHEAD
L/R THREADED ROD 1.625"
KINGPIN SCREW
L/R THREADED ROD 1.5"
4-40 X 3/8" BUTTON HEAD
4-40 X 5/16" TRI-LOB CAP
4-40 X 1.5" CAPHEAD
2-56 X 3/16" FLAT HEAD
4-40 X 5/16" BUTTON HEAD
3mm X 6mm BTN HD ZINC SCW
SERVO TAPE - 1-1/2" X 3"
THRUST WASHER - XX DIFF
WASHER BALLSTUD
WASHER HARDENED #4 X .030
WASHER .250 X.130X .120
SHIM, 1/4 X 5/16 X .007
WASHER BELVIL HEAVY DUTY
SLIPPER SHIM
SLIPPER PUCK
MIP LUBE
MIP THREAD LOCK
STICKER SHEET
WINDOW MASK
SILICONE FILLED TUBE
THREAD FORMING SCREW
NUT, 4-40 ZINC
4-40 AL LOCK NUT 3/16 HEX
4-40 STEEL NYLOCK HALFNUT
FOAM THINGS
FOAM DIFF SEAL
FOAM, BUGGY REAR-FIRM
FOAM INSERT WIDE BUGGY FR
PART NO.
A-9968
A-6310
A-6100
A-6903
A-6907
A-6908
A-6905
A-4002
A-5132
A-5150
A-3265
A-8200
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
A-6204
A-6205
A-6206
A-6213
A-6216
A-6210
A-6220
A-6221
A-4221
A-6234
A-6035
A-6235
A-6033
A-6229
N/A
A-4216
A-4210
A-6245
A-6238
A-4004
A-3099
A-6215
A-6350
A-6350
A-6230
A-2902
A-3265
A-3265
A-9933
A-9933
A-8352
A-8046
A-3065
N/A
A-6300
A-6306
A-6305
A-6003
A-2909
A-7398
A-7297
40
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
CVD Set-Front XXX-4
8-32 Aluminum Locknuts
1/8" E-Clips
3/16 X 3/8 Bearings w/Seals
5 X 8mm Ball Bearings
1/2" x 3/4" Sealed Ball Bearing
Ball Bearing, 3/16 x 5/16
Antenna Kit
2" Spring 3.2 Rate, Green
2.5" Spring 2.3 Rate, Pink
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
Body Clips
4-40 x 1/2 Socket Head Screw
4-40 x 3/4 Socket Head Screw
4-40 x 3/8" SH Screws
4-40 x 1/4 Flat Socket Screw
4-40 x 7/8 Socket Head Screw
4-40 x 3/8 Flat Head Socket
4-40 x 1/2" FH Screws
4-40 x 5/8" Cap Screws
Body, Wing, Antenna Mounts & Battery Posts
Button Head Screw,4-40x1/4
Adj L/R Rods w/Ends:1.625"
King/Hinge Pin Screws
Adj L/R Thread Rod w/Ends:1.5"
4-40 x 3/8 Button Head Screws
Motor Mount Clamp & Screws
Chassis Bottom Cover
4-40x5/16" Button Head Screws
3x6mm Cap/Button Head Screw Kit
Servo Tape
Full Thrust Bearing Set
#4 Narrow Washers
#4 and 1/8" Hardened Washers
Belt Tensioner, Post & Hardware
Shim Set:3/16,1/4,1/2
Diff Screw,Hardware & Seal Set
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
CVD Rebuild Kit
CVD Rebuild Kit
XXX-4 Sticker Sheet
XXX-4 Body W/Masks
Losi Diff Lube
See #143 Above
4-40 Hex Nuts
4-40 Aluminum Mini-Nuts
4-40 Lockin Nuts-Low Profile
Foam Things,Linkage Rings
Diff Screw,Hardware & Seal Set
R Buggy Liner,Firm
Front FWD & Extra Wide Foam Tire Liners
SPARE PARTS LIST
KEY #
189
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
SILICONE SHOCK FLUID
GEAR COVER
BODY & WING,
SLIPPER WRENCH
HINGE PIN RETAINER,
SET SCREW, #5-40 X 1/8
SHIM, 3/16 X .015
SHIM, 3/16 X .005
PART NO.
A-5224
A-4209
A-8046
A-3264
A-1234
A-6228
A-3264
A-3264
41
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
Silicone Shock Oil, 30Wt, 2oz.
Gear Cover & Screws
XXX-4 Invader Body &Wing W/Masks
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
Front Hinge Pin Retainers XXX-4
5-40X1/8" Hardened Set Screws
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
Slipper Rebuild Kit XXX-4
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