Installtion guide
For 2014 Harley Davidson Models
Street GLide
Ultra Classic
ElEctra Glide
1. Remove the Seat
2. Remove the rear Tank Bolts
3. Remove the Front Tank Bolts
4. Disconnect the Fuel Line
5. Tank Removal
Special Note: Brake Lines
6. Expose the Harness
7. Power Harness
8. Exposing the Battery
9. Connecting the Power Harness
Note: Remove the Fuse
10. Fairing Removal
11. Windshield Removal
12. Disconnect the Headlight
13. Speaker Enclosure Fastener Locations
14. Disconnecting the Speaker Harness
15. Removing the Vent Assembly
16. Speaker Enclosure Bottom Fasteners
17. Enclosure to Fairing Fasteners
18. Enclosures to Radio Bracket Fasteners
Note; CB Radio Equipped Bikes
19. Trim the Enclosure Alignment Pins
20. Connecting the New Speakers.
21. Prepping the Harness
22. Relocate the GPS Antenna
23. Remote Turn-on P&A Plug
24. Mount the Amplifier
25. Connect the Power Harness
26. Connect the Input Plug
27. Connect the Speaker Wires
28. Apply the Weather Protector
Note: Tuning the Amp
29. Finishing it up
Note: Install the Fuse
Special Thanks to Dick Braner for
supplying his 2014 Ultra Classic.
1. Locate the Philips head screw at the
back of the seat and remove it being careful
not to drop it. This will free the back of the
seat. Raise it slightly and slide the seat
toward the back of the bike until it comes
Note: It maybe necessary to remove the
seat strap. The Philips screw for the strap
can be found behind the saddle bag.
2. Remove the 2 bolts at the back of the
tank under the seat. Don't drop them down
by the battery. You will need them later.
3. Remove the 2 bolts at the front of the
tank. These are under rubber covers that
must be removed first.
4. To disconnect the fuel line from the fuel
tank, locate the quick disconnect fitting on
the left side of the tank.
Push up on the chrome plated portion of the
connector. Work the black elbow fitting free
while holding the chrome fitting in the up
The elbow and attached fuel
line should come free with very
little effort. This fitting is self
sealing however a small
amount of fuel may drip for the
connector. You may want to put
a rag under it to catch any gas.
5. Short Cut. While it is advisable to remove the
chrome "Dash Board" from the tank and fully
disconnect all wires and lines attached, you can
carefully swing the tank around and set it in the
seat position. A great deal of care must be taken
to insure nothing is scratched or damaged. If you
are uncomfortable with this method, please watch
the tank video below for complete tank removal
Special Note: This 2014 model has had 3
zip ties added under the tank the secure the
brake lines. If your bike does not have
these it is recommended that you contact
your local dealer and find out if it is necessary. If they are present they must be
replaced exactly as they are. ARC Audio
takes no responsibility for this modification.
6. Remove the black plastic cover off the
top of the wire cover on the back bone of
the frame. No tools here, just work it loose
from the taps.
Lay the power harness in with the rest of
the wires. Make sure the fuse holder is at
the battery end. Nothing special here, just
tuck it in place. Make sure you leave
enough to make the connection to the battery.
Warning: Remove the
supplied fuse from the
fuse holder before you
7. This is what it should look like
before you put the cover back on.
At this point you can reverse the
process, putting the cover back on and putting the tank back in place and secure all the hardware
tightly. Don't forget the fuel line. Give it a gentle tug to make sure it is securely connected.
8. Remove the 2 highlighted bolts. You may
find it helpful to remove the control module
(the one with 3 big plugs on it) on top of the
battery cover.
Slide the battery cover forward as far as
possible. There is a metal tab at the front
that it ahs to clear before it can be lifted up.
9. You have now exposed the top of the
battery. The 2 ends of the power harness
with the metal ring terminal can now be
connected to the battery at this location.
Take extra care when working around the
positive (+) battery terminal. You should
always wear safety glasses when working
with the battery.
Just a reminder, the red wire connects to
the battery positive (+) and the black wire to
the battery negative (-).
Whoops! Did you forget to remove the
Only install the fuse after ALL your connections to the battery and the amplifier are
complete. There is a risk of significant
damage and even fire if you forget this step.
10. Remove the 4- T25 Torx head screws at the inside edge
of the inner fairing. Note: it maybe necessary to remove the
fog lights it equipped.
11. Remove the 3- Philips head screws
below the windshield. Warning: The outer
faring is loose and ready to remove. Don't
let it fall. It maybe helpful to leave the
center (long) screw in place and loose
until you are ready to remove the fairing
and windshield.
12. Gently pull the outer fair toward you.
You will need to lean over the fairing and
locate the headlight wiring harness.
Disconnect the headlight harness and let
it hang. If no aftermarket accessories
have been added, you can now remove
the fairing. Set it is a safe, out of the way
location where it will not be dropped or
13. This is what you should see when
you outer fairing is removed. To access
the speakers you will need to remove
the 8 fasteners that secure the speaker
enclosures to the inner fairing. Note:
These enclosures are a structural part
of the fairing. All the fasteners must be
use and tight when reinstalling the
speaker enclosures.
1, 2, & 3
14. Disconnect speaker wiring harness and pop its
fastener free from the enclosure. On the right hand side
you will need to pull the power port (cigarette lighter)
harness off the power port.
15. Remove the 2- T25 Torx head screws
that retain the vent assembly and remove it
by pulling it forward.
16. Remove 3-7/16" screws (1, 2 and
3). These are an incredible pain to
remove. There is a large wiring harness
in the way and they are almost impossible to see. Using a 1/4" drive deep
socket was the easiest solution for me.
A Universal and socket and long extension may work even better if you have it.
Warning: The edges of the black metal
bracket are very sharp. Be careful and
keep Band-aids handy.
17. Remove 3-3/16" Allen head screws (4, 5 and 6).
Nothing special here. You may find a small magnet
useful for removing screw 6.
18. Remove the 2-5/32" Allen head
screws (7 and 8). The enclosure is not
free and ready to be removed.
NOTE: Some models are equipped with CB radios. You
will need to remove 1 screw retaining this module to
remove the left side enclosure.
The enclosure should be loose and come off freely. If
the enclosure does not come off easily don't force it,
repeat these steps and insure you have fully removed
all fasteners.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 on the left side.
19. After removing the stock speakers,
trim any alignment pins on the mounting
surface flush with the face of the enclosure.
20. Plug in the new speakers using the
original factory connectors. Note: There
are 2 sizes of connector. Use the larger,
black connector on the larger speaker
terminal regardless of the wire color. We
have compensated for this elsewhere in
the wiring harness.
Mount the speakers
using the original
hardware. Be careful not to over
tighten the screws.
At this point you can begin the process and of reassembling the speaker enclosures. Just follow the
steps in reverse order and make sure you don't have any leftover hardware.
21. You now need to assemble the speaker
harness. Just plug the adapters to the ends
of the harness, matching the connectors
with there appropriate mate and wire color.
Make sure the insulating covers are firmly
in place. A shorted wire here will shut down
or possible damage the system.
22. You will need to relocate this
antenna module if it is equipped with
GPS. It is attached with double stick
tape. Pop it off and move it up on the
bracket to the right.
23. This also happens to be the approximant location of
the wire we will use for remote turn on. The service
manual calls this a "P&A" connector and it is intended to
power or trigger accessories like this. There will be an
empty plug in the end that will need to be removed.
Once that cap has been removed you can plug in the
provided orange wire and set it aside.
24. Attach the amplifier to the top of
the amplifier bracket using the large
Velcro pad. You only get 1 shot with
this stuff so be careful.
25. Connect the power harness from
the battery to the 3 screw terminal
block on the end of the amplifier. You
did remember to remove the fuse from
the harness right? The Red wire goes
to the +12V terminal, black to GND and
the orange wire from the P&A connects
26. Connect the black 5 pin plug to its
mate on the end of the amplifier next to
the RCA connectors.
Note: The speaker Level input button
must be in the in position. It is located
right under this plug. Now would be a
good time to confirm it is in the correct
27. On the end of the speaker harness
are 4 stripped wires. Connect them to the
4 screw block terminal on the end of the
amplifier with the controls.
Solid White = Left +
White/Black = Left Solid Gray = Right+
Gray/Black = Right -
28. Apply the protector to the bottom
side of the vent assembly. Clean the
surface with alcohol and allow it to dry
thoroughly. Peel the protective strip from
the double sited tape and stick it to the
bottom of the vent assembly making
sure it is approximately centered.
Supplied with this kit is a tuning guide.
Now would be a good time to make any
final adjustments to the amplifier.
29. This is what it should look like when it's
done. Tie up all the extra wire using the
supplied zip ties and reverse the process of
disassembly. Everything should do together
easily without any need to excessive force.
Time to fire it up and listen to it.
Remember that
fuse at the battery?
Now would be a
good time to put in.
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