V1.6 - Unlimited Engineering
Assembly Instructions
Congratulations on your purchase of The DUECE PREDATOR RACE CHASSIS
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
Serial #_________________________________(from the outside of the package)
Warranty: Lifetime for manufacturing defects.
Severe abuse policy: 40% off replacement. So if the replacement part is $10 you pay $6
Parts MUST be returned to Unlimited, Inc to be eligible for warranty or severe abuse replacement.
Warranty or severe abuse should be sent directly to Unlimited. Sending through point of purchase will only
delay the process.
We make every effort for perfection, but there are always some machining marks in any CNC product. If
something is unacceptable to you we will happily replace the part(s). You must return the part(s) new and
unused to Unlimited, Inc before replacement is shipped.
If something does not go together please don’t force it – find out why. If a screw seems too short or doesn’t
go in easily, get a longer screw or clean out the threads, don’t strip the holes or bust off the screw. If you have
a hammer in your RC toolbox, put it back in the garage where it belongs. Please use common sense when
assembling these kits. Mangled parts will not be covered under warranty just because I didn’t tell you not to do
something in the instructions –I do try to be as thorough as possible, but I can’t possibly think of every single
variable that could happen.
I should note, these instructions are chassis assembly instructions.
They do not cover basic aspects of T-Maxx, Transmission, differential, Bulkhead, Motor, Electronics,
Suspension or Driveshaft instruction.
If you are SCRATCH building a truck you will need to get instruction for the non-chassis portion from either
Traxxas or the manufacturer of that item.
1. Disassembly
1.1. Disconnect your bulkheads from your chassis, keeping them intact, as you will reattach them when you
are done assembling your chassis.
1.2. Now you are ready to remove all components from your chassis: motor, transmission, servos fuel tank,
battery box, and receiver box. Once you have done this, take the time to clean all your parts. As for the
screws you have removed, add them to your collection, we have supplied you with new ones, because the
chassis is now thicker then your stock chassis and you will need to use the fasteners we supply.
Note: Now is a good time to service your transmission and differentials. I would recommend a new
transmission case if yours is old or the mounting holes show extreme wear, as the case now mounts only to
the chassis. Remember to use blue loctite on all alum pieces and all drive cups.
2. Assembly
2.1. The first thing you need to do is separate your
screws that were supplied with your kit. (See parts
list on back page)
2.2. Attach braces to deck: Take the M3x12 Flat
Head Socket Screws (FHCS) (qty. 6) and attach
the chassis braces to the chassis. Make sure to use
a small amount of blue loctite.
Qty Description
Qty Description
Predator Race Chassis Deck
FHCS, M3x10, Grade 10.9, Black
FHCS, M3x8, Grade 10.9, Black
Fuel Tank
FHCS, M3x12, Grade 10.9, Black
Fuel Tank Standoffs
SHCS, M3x12, Grade 12.9, Black
Brake Linkage
SHCS, M3x10, Grade 12.9, Black
SHCS, M3x20, Grade 12.9, Black
M3 Nylock Nut, Zinc Plated Ste
Flat Washer, M3, Special
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
2.3. Switch Bell crank sides: The steering servo has
been moved to the opposite side from stock. You
will need to switch the sides the bell cranks are on
in order to use your stock linkage. Attach to Deck
using M3x12 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS.)
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
2.4. Attach Front & Rear end: Use the
screws provided to attach the front end,
M3x12 SHCS (qty. 4). The rear uses M3x12
SHCS (qty 2) and M3x 12 FHCS (qty2.)
2.6. Install Steering Servo: Mount the steering
servo on the top of your chassis to make sure
your alignment height is correct. Use provided
M3x20 (SHCS)(qty 4), 4 washers and 4 3mm
nylon locking nuts. (Do not plug your servo in
to your receiver yet!!)
2.7. Install Motor: Use the supplied M3x10 SHCS
with precision aluminum washers (qty 4.) These
washers will make the motor straight by sitting
in the relief pockets in bottom of the chassis.
Make sure you set the mesh on your motor
correctly with the spur gear. Shown here with
optional Dace CNC motor mount #DT1017P.
2.5. Install Transmission: There’s an easy
way and a hard way, here’s the easy way:
2.5.1. Put one screw in each of the furthest
rearward chassis hole and slip a hex
wrench thru the brace to hold it in place.
2.5.2. With the truck upside down sitting on
the body posts, hold the trans in one hand
and slip the front driveshaft in place.
2.5.3. Now with the front shaft held in
place with the trans and pinion drive cup,
install the rear shaft.
2.8. Install Fuel Tank: Mount the fuel tank using
the supplied screws. The black plastic spacers
need to be in between standoff and chassis for
clearance, M3x12 SHCS in this location. Attach
the brass fuel inlets to tank. Attach standoff &
plastic spacer to the tank using M3x16 SHCS.
As for the fuel line; we recommend 6 inches for
back pressure line and no more than 10 inches
for the tank to carburetor, make sure you route
your fuel line away from the motor, as the motor
will heat the fuel and cause tuning difficulties.
2.5.4. Bring the trans into location and start
each of the screws.
2.5.5. Snug it down, install the remaining
screws with needle nose pliers and a hex
2.5.6. Once you have done this tighten your
transmission fully.
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
2.9. Install Throttle / Brake Servo: Mount the
T/B servo to the servo mounts (shown using
optional Dace Race mounts #DT13236) using
M3x8 SHCS and use the washers on the top of
the servo. Now mount the servo to the chassis
using the M3x10 SHCS. Note: if using the
optional mounts you will need to run your servo
wire thru the slot of the front mount. Do not
tighten because you need to align your throttle
linkage to your motor. You may need to rotate
your throttle arm (Traxxas part # 5243) to get a
straight pull on your slide carburetor. We have
provided you with a new throttle rod. Take
your ball cup connector of your old linkage and
thread it to the new rod. Keep all your linkage
parts handy, as you will need to use most of it to
assemble this linkage. You will need to have L
shaped servo horn to make this work. There is a
new brake linkage rod that we have supplied for
you. It is cut long and you may need to do some
trimming. (Do not plug your servo in to your
receiver yet!!)
2.10. (optional) Mounting the Receiver Box:
Mount your receiver box to the supplied
standoffs. This will mount just above your
steering servo. 2 screws to the bottom the other
2 you will need to drill a .125 (1/8 hole thru
your receiver box) so you can put the screw
right thru the box. (Use a small amount of
loctite to hold the radio box on). Now you need to mount the on/
off switch. One way is to get MIP receiver tape and mount it to
the side of your receiver box. The other way is to get Losi part #
A-9415 (XXXNT servo switch mount) it costs about $4.50. This
will mount directly on the screw pattern for the steering servo.
As for your switch part # JRPA003 this switch comes with built
in charge jack.
2.11. Battery and Final Adjustments:
2.11.1. We have found mounting the battery to the chassis in between the bulkheads works well; some
people have mounted it to back of their shock tower. We use zip ties and Velcro to hold it into place and
have been very successful mounting it to the chassis. The zip ties do the bulk of the securing and the
Velcro prevents any chaffing with the chassis. Now you need to power up your electronics (do not have
servo horns on your servos at this time).
2.11.2. Zero out all your trim and have the servos position centered. You may have to reverse your servo
direction on your controller; so that it operates in the proper direction.
2.11.3. Now you can attach your horns to your servos. Start setting your steering in the straight position
(some trim may be needed to accomplish this.).
2.11.4. Now you need to set the throttle linkage because there is no resistance with the bell crank gone
and you have a straight pull on your slide carburetor. (It doesn’t take much to pull the carburetor open.)
Take off the air filter and slowly pull the slide carburetor open, you will see that at about half throttle
your slide is almost all the way open. Set your trim so that at full throttle it is all the way open. We use
a JR 590 and Airtronics 98357 metal servos and they have all the power you need to handle the brakes
and throttle in this truck.
2.11.5. Check the truck to make sure all the components are tight and you have blue loctite on all screws
that are in aluminum and all wires are free from grounding or snagging on moving components. Set
your brakes a little loose, what I do is turn the truck on and push it and press the brakes trying to pre-set
them to stop.
2.11.6. When you take your first run make sure you have enough room around you so that you can make
sure brakes work and the throttle operates fine.
DO NOT JUST FIRE IT UP AND GO W.O.T. Take it easy this a new truck. Take time to learn this truck
because the handling and jumping have become a lot easier. This truck is a lot lighter than the stock truck, so it
has different characteristics when driving. So go out and enjoy your new truck.
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
Thank you for your support,
Dale Mowery
Robin Oury
Owner, Dace Manufacturing
Owner, Unlimited, Inc
4813 Enterprise Way, unit H
500 Dunwoody Drive
Modesto, CA 95356
Simpsonville, SC 29681
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©2003 Unlimited, Inc. & Dace Manufacturing
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