matrix - osburn
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION MANUAL
MATRIX
(OB02022 Model)
Distributed by
Glen Dimplex Australasia
NEW ZEALAND
38 Harris Road, East Tamaki, Auckland
Ph: 09 274 8265 Fax 09 274 8472
Email: sales@glendimplex.co.nz
www.glendimplex.com.au
AUSTRALIA
Unit 1, 21 Lionel Road
Mount Waverley, Victoria 3149
Ph: 1 300 554 155 Fax 8787 3570
Email: sales@glendimplex.com.au
www.glendimplex.com.au
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted
document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from time to
time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the use of
information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
Printed in Canada
45641A
25-08-2015
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS WOOD FIRE
We want to congratulate you on your purchase and wish to help you get maximum satisfaction
from your wood fire. In the pages that follow, we will give you advice on wood heating and
controlled combustion as well as technical specifications regarding installation, operation and
maintenance of the model you have chosen.
The instructions pertaining to the installation of
AS/NZS 4012/4013 (1999) and AS/NZS 2918:2001 standards.
your
wood
fire
comply
with
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new wood fire. Failure to follow
instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death. It is important that you
follow the installations guidelines exactly.
Consult your local city, borough or shire council about restrictions and installations
requirements in your area and the need to obtain a permit.
KEEP THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................................ 6
1
Safety Information ......................................................................... 6
1.1
2
Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings ......................................6
General Information ....................................................................... 7
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.4.1
3
OSBURN Matrix Specifications ..............................................................................................7
Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You ................................................................10
The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency.............................................................10
Osburn’s Commitment to You and the Environment..........................................................11
What is Your New Wood fire Made Of? ..........................................................................11
Fuel .............................................................................................. 12
3.1
Materials That Should Not be Burned .................................................................................12
3.2
How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ..............................................................................12
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? .................................................................................................12
3.2.2 Tree Species .....................................................................................................................12
3.2.3 Log Length ........................................................................................................................13
3.2.4 Piece Size ..........................................................................................................................13
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood .......................................................................................................14
3.2.6 Where to store wood .......................................................................................................15
3.2.7 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ...............................................................................15
3.3
Manufactured Logs ..............................................................................................................16
4
Operating Your Wood fire ............................................................ 17
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.3.1
4.3.2
4.3.3
4.3.4
4.4
4.4.1
4.4.2
4.4.3
The use of a fire screen........................................................................................................17
Your First Fires .....................................................................................................................17
Lighting Fires ........................................................................................................................18
Conventional Fire Starting ...............................................................................................18
The Top Down Fire ...........................................................................................................18
Two Parallel Logs..............................................................................................................19
Using Fire Starters ............................................................................................................19
Maintaining Wood Fires ......................................................................................................19
General Advice .................................................................................................................19
Ash Removal.....................................................................................................................20
Raking Charcoal ................................................................................................................20
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
4.4.4
4.4.5
4.4.6
5
Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................................21
Turning Down the Air Supply ...........................................................................................21
Building Different Fires for Different Needs ....................................................................22
Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ....................................... 24
5.1
Wood fire Maintenance.......................................................................................................24
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass .........................................................................................................24
5.1.2 Door adjustment ..............................................................................................................25
5.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket...............................................................................................26
5.1.4 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass ..................................................................26
5.1.5 Cleaning and Painting the Wood fire ...............................................................................27
5.2
Flue and Flue System Maintenance.....................................................................................28
5.2.1 Why Flue System Cleaning is Necessary ..........................................................................28
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Flue System? ..............................................................28
5.2.3 Cleaning the Flue System .................................................................................................28
PART B – INSTALLATION...................................................................... 29
6
Safety Information ....................................................................... 29
6.1
6.2
7
Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings ................................................................29
Regulations Covering Wood fire Installation .......................................................................30
Clearances to Heat-Sensitive Materials ......................................... 31
7.1
7.2
7.3
7.4
8
Location of the Certification Label ......................................................................................31
Clearances to Walls and Ceiling ...........................................................................................31
Floor Protector.....................................................................................................................32
Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely ......................................................................33
The Flue System ........................................................................... 35
8.1
8.2
8.2.1
8.2.2
8.3
8.4
8.4.1
8.4.2
8.5
General ................................................................................................................................35
Suitable Flue Systems ..........................................................................................................35
Factory built Insulated Flue Kits .......................................................................................35
Masonry Flue Systems .....................................................................................................36
Minimum Flue System Height .............................................................................................37
The Relationship Between the Flue System and the House................................................38
Why Inside Flue Systems are Preferred ...........................................................................38
Why the Flue System Should Penetrate the Highest Heated Space................................39
Installing the flue Connector ...............................................................................................40
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 1: Reversing the Door Opening and Adjusting the Handle .... 42
Appendix 2: Installing the Optional Decorative Panels ......................... 44
Appendix 3: Installing the Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit ....................... 47
Appendix 4: Installing the Optional Fire Screen (AC01315) .................. 48
Appendix 5: Installation and Use of the Blower and Thermodisc ......... 49
Appendix 6: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ................. 51
Appendix 7: Exploded Diagram and Parts List ...................................... 53
REGISTER YOU WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of
the date you purchased your wood fire. Keep your sales invoice. We
also recommend that you register your warranty online at
http://osburn-australia.com/warranty-registration.aspx
Registering your warranty online will help us track rapidly the
information we need on your wood fire.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1 SAFETY INFORMATION
1.1 SUMMARY OF OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
•
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT
MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR WOOD FIRE OPERATION.
•
USING A WOOD FIRE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR
FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY DAMAGE THE
WOOD FIRE.
•
OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
•
THIS WOOD FIRE HAS BEEN TESTED FOR USE WITH AN OPEN DOOR IN CONJUNCTION WITH A
FIRE SCREEN (AC01315, SOLD SEPARATELY). THE DOOR MAY BE OPEN OR FIRE SCREEN
REMOVED ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR
OR PUT BACK THE FIRE SCREEN AFTER IGNITION. DO NOT LEAVE THE WOOD FIRE
UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS OPENED WITH OR WITHOUT FIRE SCREEN.
•
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,
KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR
‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS WOOD FIRE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY
FROM THE WOOD FIRE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
•
DO NOT CONNECT TO ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
•
DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
•
BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
•
THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS A FUEL CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
•
DO NOT BURN:
o GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
o COAL OR CHARCOAL,
o TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
o PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
o FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
o SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD, OR
o RAILROAD TIES.
•
DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY USING A GRATE IN THIS WOOD FIRE.
•
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE
WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
2
GENERAL INFORMATION
2.1 OSBURN MATRIX SPECIFICATIONS
Combustible:
Wood
Heating capacity*
195 m2
Maximum average heat output – hardwood (Australia): 11.1 kW
Average efficiency – hardwood (Australia):
68 %
Average emissions – hardwood (Australia):
1.9 g/kg
Burn Time*
6 to 8 hours
Color :
Metallic black
Flue Spigot Diameter :
150 mm
Flue system :
Universal Flue Kit or
Acorn insulated Flue Kit
Minimum Flue Height (from floor protector):
4.6 meters
Maximum Log Length :
508 mm sideways**
Log loading :
Sideways
Firebox Volume :
0,068 m3
Weight:
244 kg
Baffle Material
C-cast
* Burn time and heating capacity may vary subject to location in home, flue system draft, flue
system diameter, locality, heat loss factors, climate, fuels and other variables.
** Sideways: through the door you see the sides of the logs.
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2.2 ZONE HEATING AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU
Your new Osburn Matrix wood fire is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it
is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and
located wood fire. Whole house zone heating works best when the wood fire is located in the part
of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the wood fire in this area, you will get
the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating
efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while
bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than
with other forms of heating.
Although the wood fire may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the wood fire, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Threeseason vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller wood fires than houses that are heated
all winter.
2.3 THE BENEFITS OF LOW EMISSIONS AND HIGH EFFICIENCY
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Osburn Matrix firebox mean
that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside environment than if
you used an older conventional wood fire. But there is more to the emission control technologies
than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your wood fire releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the flue system. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to
reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your wood fire can only work properly
if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section 3 of this
manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
2.4 OSBURN’S COMMITMENT TO YOU AND THE ENVIRONMENT
The Osburn team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use
only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.4.1 WHAT IS YOUR NEW WOOD FIRE MADE OF?
The body of your wood fire, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire wood fire can be recycled into new
products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your wood fire is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Components) is
very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing
process meets the latest air quality requirements with regards to VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to
form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 1093 °c. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, an earth derived product. It is most
commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been
dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is basically made of
raw earth materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a glass at high
temperatures. Ceramic glass will not re-melt in the same way as normal glass, so it should not be
recycled with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
3 FUEL
3.1 MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED
•
GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
•
COAL OR CHARCOAL,
•
TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
•
PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
•
FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
•
SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
•
MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
•
RAILROAD TIES
•
LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 HOW TO PREPARE OR BUY GOOD FIREWOOD
3.2.1 WHAT IS GOOD FIREWOOD?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the wood fire, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 TREE SPECIES
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods such
as gums, Manuka or ironbark are denser than softwoods. Hard wood will produce long-lasting coal
beds combined to more heat and longer burn cycles.
Old, leaky cast iron wood fires wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of
hardwood. That is no longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using less wood and
give the forest a break at the same time.
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3.2.3 LOG LENGTH
Logs should be cut about 25 mm (1”) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are
slightly too long make loading the wood fire very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 400 mm (16”).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 25 mm (1”) variation from piece to
piece.
3.2.4 PIECE SIZE
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 75 mm (3”) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 75 mm to 150 mm (3” to 6”) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is
sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
3.2.5 HOW TO DRY FIREWOOD
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood fires. The
complaints usually involve a lack of heat and dirty door glass.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
firewood takes a long time to dry
firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood
in spring and dry it yourself
drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
hardwoods like gums, Manuka and ironbark can take one, or even two years to dry fully,
especially if the pieces are big
firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your wood fire to produce its highest possible efficiency
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3.2.6 WHERE TO STORE WOOD
This wood fire has been certified to store logs in the pedestal provided that the following
requirements are met:
•
The logs must not exceed the inside edge
(A) of the pedestal.
•
The heat shield baffle (B) under the firebox
must never be removed.
•
No combustible material can be placed
above the heat shield baffle.
3.2.7 JUDGING FIREWOOD MOISTURE CONTENT
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•
•
•
•
•
•
cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream coloured to grey or yellow,
bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp, it
is too wet,
burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your
firewood.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
3.3 MANUFACTURED LOGS
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution
in the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the
wood fire reacts. You can increase the number of logs burned at a time to making sure the
temperature never rises higher than 246 °C (475 °F) on a magnetic thermometer for installation on
wood fire flue. The thermometer should be placed about 450 mm (18”) above the wood fire.
Higher temperatures can lead to overheat and damage your wood fire.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
4 OPERATING YOUR WOOD FIRE
•
NEVER OVERFIRE YOUR WOOD FIRE. IF ANY PART OF THE WOOD FIRE STARTS TO GLOW
RED, OVER FIRING IS HAPPENING. READJUST THE AIR INTAKE CONTROL AT A LOWER
SETTING.
•
NEVER LOAD YOUR WOOD FIRE UP TO THE BAFFLE. ALWAYS LEAVE 5 TO 10 CENTIMETERS
TO ALLOW PROPER COMBUSTION THROUGH SECONDARY AIR OPENINGS (NEVER PUT WOOD
ABOVE THE FIREBRICK LINING ON THE FIREBOX). THIS WILL ALSO PREVENT OVERFIRING OF
YOUR WOOD FIRE.
•
SHOULD THERE BE A SOOT OR CREOSOTE FIRE IN YOUR FLUE SYSTEM, CLOSE THE AIR
CONTROL COMPLETELY. IMMEDIATELY CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.
4.1 THE USE OF A FIRE SCREEN.
This stove has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen (AC01315,
sold separately). Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the stove to avoid any risk of
fire. When the fire screen is used, it is important not to leave the stove unattended to respond
promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke spillage are
described in section height of this manual. See Appendix 4: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01315)
for installation instructions.
4.2 YOUR FIRST FIRES
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the wood fire are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
light your wood fire, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you
burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the
paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot
fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the wood fire. Once the paint smell
disappears, your wood fire is ready for serious heating.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
4.3 LIGHTING FIRES
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the flue system. Here are three popular and
effective ways to start wood fires.
4.3.1 CONVENTIONAL FIRE STARTING
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to bunch
up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspaper and place them
in the firebox. Next, place 10 or so pieces of fine
kindling on the newspaper. This kindling should be
very thin; less than 25 mm (1”). Next, place some
larger kindling pieces on the fine kindling. Open the
air control fully and light the newspaper. If you have
a tall, straight flue system you should be able to close
the door immediately and the fire will ignite. If your
flue has elbows or an outside flue system, you may
need to leave the door closed but unlatched for a few
minutes as the newspaper ignites and heat in the flue
system produces some draft. Once the fire has
ignited, close the door and leave the air control fully
open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WOOD FIRE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED DURING
IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a
fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.3.2 THE TOP DOWN FIRE
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it
does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two
hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5
more finely split pieces of firewood (50 mm to 75 mm [2” to 3”] in dia.) on the base logs at right
angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at
right angles.
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The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them in
between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by rolling
up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they
don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top to
bottom.
4.3.3 TWO PARALLEL LOGS
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now
place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.
Light the newspaper.
4.3.4 USING FIRE STARTERS
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are
made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the
package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to
start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.4 MAINTAINING WOOD FIRES
4.4.1 GENERAL ADVICE
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners
these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your wood fire. It is normal for its surface temperature to
rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For
example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework
or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching
television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends
when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when
the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on
the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire at
a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the
amount of heat needed.
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Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the wood fire’s loading door while the wood is
flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the wood
fire when the door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the flue connector has
90 degree elbows and if the flue system runs up the outside wall of the house.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY FOR
A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
4.4.2 ASH REMOVAL
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let
the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the wood fire is relatively cool, but
there is still some flue system draft to draw the ash dust into the wood fire and prevent it from
coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the wood fire and placed in a tightly covered metal
container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be
placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials
pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several
days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be
retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste shall not be
placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN DECK.
4.4.3 RAKING CHARCOAL
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards
the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates
them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new
load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were
to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it
will ignite the new load.
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4.4.4 FIRING EACH NEW LOAD HOT
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal and not too close to the glass. Close the
door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of
flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot
accomplishes a few things:
•
•
•
•
drives the surface moisture from the wood,
creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
heats the flue system so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire
to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WOOD FIRE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the wood fire and the flue system,
the result will be a surge of heat from the wood fire. This heat surge is welcome when the room
temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm.
Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little
before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and
effective zone heating.
4.4.5 TURNING DOWN THE AIR SUPPLY
Once the firewood, firebox and flue system are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a
steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate slows
down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the flow rate of
exhaust through the wood fire and flue slows down, which gives more time for the transfer of heat
from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the flames slow down. This is
your indication that the wood fire is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost disappear when you turn down the air, you have turned down
the air too early, or your firewood is wetter than it should be. With good fuel and correct air
control use, the flames should slow down, but should stay large and steady, even as the air supply
is reduced.
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4.4.6 BUILDING DIFFERENT FIRES FOR DIFFERENT NEEDS
Using the air control is not the only way to match the wood fire’s heat output to the heat demand.
Your house will need far less heat in April than in July to be kept at a comfortable temperature. If
you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat the space or turn the wood fire
down so much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here are some suggestions for building
fires to match different heat demand.
4.4.6.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load
them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 75 mm to 100 mm in diameter. After
raking the coals, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the firebox and
lay two more across them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air
after the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather when you are around to
tend the wood fire and should provide enough heat for four hours or more. Small fires like this are
a good time to use softer wood species so there will be less chance of overheating the house.
4.4.6.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense heat. In
this case use smaller pieces of hardwood and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the pieces
are packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully char the log
surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming brightly before leaving the
fire to burn.
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4.4.6.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily and
brightly. This is the time to use your biggest pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the biggest
pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like
this will produce the longest burn your wood fire is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down too
much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to
burn. The wood should be positioned in a north/south fashion, that is, from the front to the back
of the firebox.
4.4.6.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of
that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly the
first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is little or
no flame. The length of burn you can expect from your wood fire, including both the flaming and
coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of things, such as:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
firebox size,
the amount of wood loaded,
the species of wood you burn,
the wood moisture content,
the size of the space to be heated,
the climate zone you live in, and
the time of year.
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you are likely
to experience, based on firebox volume.
< 0.042 cubic meter
MAXIMUM
BURN TIME
3 to 5 hours
0.042 m3 to 0.056 m3
5 to 6 hours
0.056 m3 to 0.071 m3
6 to 8 hours
0.071 m3 to 0.085 m3
8 to 9 hours
> 0.085 m3
9 to 10 hours
FIREBOX VOLUME
Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient wood fire operation. When you are
home during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that might
provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn.
Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the wood fire to the heat demand
of the space.
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5 MAINTAINING YOUR WOOD HEATING SYSTEM
5.1 WOOD FIRE MAINTENANCE
Your new wood fire will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly.
Some of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes, will wear
over time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with original parts (see
Appendix 4: Exploded Diagram and Parts List). For firing each load hot to begin a cycle as
described above will not cause premature deterioration of the wood fire. However, letting the
wood fire run with the air control fully open for entire cycles can cause damage over time. The
hotter you run the wood fire throughout burn cycles, the more quickly its components will
deteriorate. For that reason, never leave the wood fire unattended while a new load is being
fired hot.
5.1.1 CLEANING DOOR GLASS
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is dry
enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty deposit will form
on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily removed when
the wood fire is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying. Never try to
clean the glass when the wood fire is hot.
In spring and fall when the wood fire is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light brown
stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has been
smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the weather is mild, you may
find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a continuous fire. Use the
technique described above for building a fire to take the chill off the house.
If you do get brown stains on the glass you can remove them with special cleaners for wood fire
glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your wood fire’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and how well
you are doing in operating the wood fire. Your goal should be clear glass with no brown stains. If
you continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel and operating procedure
needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete combustion of the wood, which also
means more smoke emissions and faster formation of creosote in the flue system.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket around
the glass. Visit your wood fire retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow the
instructions below for installation.
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5.1.2 DOOR ADJUSTMENT
In order for your wood fire to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal with
the firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically making sure to obtain an air
tight fit. Air tightness can be improved with a simple latch mechanism adjustment. To increase the
pressure on the gasket, remove one washer (B). To reduce pressure on the door, when putting a
new door gasket for example, put two washers. To adjust:
1. Unscrew the two screws (A) holding the handle guide (B) and remove/add one spacer (B).
2. Reinstall the latch with the screws (A).
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5.1.3 REPLACING THE DOOR GASKET
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the door
gasket will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can test the
condition of the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper. Test all around
the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter and
density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet. Remove the
old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver. Then use the
screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 6 mm (1/4”) bead of high
temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the middle of the hinge side, press
the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Leave the gasket about 12
mm (1/2”) long when you cut it and press the end into the groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the
gasket and into the silicone. Close the door and do not use the wood fire for 24 hours.
5.1.4 REPLACING THE GLASS GASKET AND/OR THE GLASS
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket is flat,
adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the glass retaining screws and clips. Lift out the glass
and pull off the old gasket. This is a good time to clean the glass thoroughly.
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket is flat,
adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the glass retaining screws (A) and clips (B) then both
metal frames (C) that holds the glass (D) to the door frame (E). Lift out the glass and pull off the
old gasket. This is a good time to clean the glass thoroughly.
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The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a section of the
paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the adhesive side up. Stick the
end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the edge of the glass down onto the
gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the gasket. Peel off more of the backing and
rotate the glass and press the next section onto the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place
it. Continue until you get to the start and trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the
glass in a U shape, all around the glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass
carefully in the door. Do not over-tighten the screws. Note that the two main causes of broken
door glass are uneven placement in the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. DO NOT USE THE WOOD FIRE IF THE
GLASS IS BROKEN. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
5.1.5 CLEANING AND PAINTING THE WOOD FIRE
Do not attempt to clean or paint the wood fire when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can be
wiped down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners. To
maintain the finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood fire a brand new look by
repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine sand paper,
wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best results, use the same
paint that was originally used on the wood fire, which is available in spray cans. See your dealer for
details.
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5.2 FLUE AND FLUE SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
5.2.1 WHY FLUE SYSTEM CLEANING IS NECESSARY
Wood smoke can condense inside the flue and flue system, forming a combustible deposit called
creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the flue system it can ignite when a hot fire is burned
in the wood fire and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the flue system. Severe flue system
fires can damage even the best flue systems. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a thick
layer of creosote to form. When you avoid smouldering so the exhaust from the flue system is
mostly clear, creosote builds up more slowly. Your new wood fire has the right characteristics to
help you to burn clean fires with little or no smoke, resulting in less creosote in the flue system.
5.2.2 HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU CLEAN THE FLUE SYSTEM?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your flue system. It is
important, therefore, to check the build-up in your flue system monthly when getting used to the
new wood fire until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms slowly in
your system, the flue system should be cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a flue
system fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a flue system fire.
5.2.3 CLEANING THE FLUE SYSTEM
Flue system cleaning can be a difficult and
dangerous job. If you don’t have
experience cleaning flue systems, you
might want to hire a professional flue
system sweep to clean and inspect the
system for the first time. After having seen
the cleaning process, you can decide if it is
a job you would like to take on.
The most common equipment used are
fibreglass rods with threaded fittings and
stiff plastic brushes. The brush is forced up
and down inside the flue system to scrub
off the creosote.
The flue should always be cleaned at the
same time the flue system is cleaned.
CAUTION: Operation of your wood fire without the baffle may cause unsafe and hazardous
temperature conditions and will void the warranty. NOTE: Before installing the firebrick, check to
ensure that none are broken or damaged in any way. If so, have the damaged ones replaced.
Check the firebrick for damage at least annually and replace any broken or damaged ones with
new ones. Inspection and cleaning of the flue system is facilitated by the removable baffle.
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PART B – INSTALLATION
It is very important to position the wood fire as close as possible to the flue system, and in an area
that will favour the most efficient heat distribution possible throughout the house. The wood fire
must therefore be installed in the room where the most time is spent, and in the most spacious
room possible. Recall that wood fires produce radiating heat, the heat we feel when we are close
to a wood fire. A wood fire also functions by convection that is through the displacement of hot
air accelerated upwards and its replacement with cooler air. If necessary, the hot air distribution
from the wood fire may be facilitated by the installation of a blower.
6 SAFETY INFORMATION
6.1 SUMMARY OF INSTALLATION CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
•
THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE APPLIANCE
ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S
MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES AND/OR WEB SITES).
•
MIXING OF APPLIANCE OR FLUE-SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR
MODIFYING COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH
CHANGES ARE PLANNED, THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
•
A WOOD FIRE MUST NEVER BE INSTALLED IN A HALLWAY OR NEAR A STAIRCASE, SINCE IT
MAY BLOCK THE WAY IN CASE OF FIRE OR FALL TO RESPECT REQUIRED CLEARANCES.
•
CONNECT THIS WOOD FIRE ONLY TO AN ACORN INSULATED FLUE KIT OR UNIVERSAL FLUE
KIT AS PER AS/NZS 2918, APPENDIX B, OR ANY FLUE SYSTEM TESTED TO AND PAST THE
REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 2918, APPENDIX F, FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL OR TO A LINED
MASONRY FLUE SYSTEM CONFORMING TO NATIONAL AND LOCAL BUILDING CODES.
•
USE SMOKE DETECTORS IN THE ROOM WHERE YOUR WOOD FIRE IS INSTALLED.
•
IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE ROOM OR SPACE.
•
KEEP FURNITURE AND DRAPES WELL AWAY FROM THE WOOD FIRE.
•
DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCTWORK
UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
•
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A FLUE SYSTEM SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
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6.2 REGULATIONS COVERING WOOD FIRE INSTALLATION
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE INSTALLATION OF YOUR OSBURN WOOD FIRE BE CARRIED OUT
BY A QUALIFIED SPECIALIST INSTALLER. IF ANY ELECTRICAL WORK IS REQUIRED, IT MUST BE
CARRIED OUT BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN.
WARNING: The instructions pertaining to the installation of your wood fire comply with the
AS/NZS 2918:2001 standard. THE APPLIANCE AND FLUE SYSTEM MUST THEREFORE BE INSTALLED
IN ACCORDANCE WITH AS/NZS 2918:2001 AND THE APPROPRIATE REQUIREMENTS OF THE
RELEVANT BUILDING CODE OR CODES.
WARNING: APPLIANCES INSTALLED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THIS STANDARD SHALL COMPLY
WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 4012/4013 (1999) WHERE REQUIRED BY THE
REGULATORY AUTHORITY, I.E. THE APPLIANCE SHALL BE IDENTIFIABLE BY A COMPLIANCE PLATE
WITH THE MARKING “TESTED TO AS/NZS 4012/4013 (1999)”.
ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE
TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED TO BE IN BREACH OF THE APPROVAL GRANTED FOR
COMPLIANCE WITH AS/NZS 4012/4013 (1999).
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7 CLEARANCES TO HEAT-SENSITIVE MATERIALS
It is of outmost importance that the clearances to heat-sensitive materials be carefully maintained
upon installation of the wood fire you have selected. Refer to the tables below.
No part of the wood fire or flue may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum
clearance figures given.
7.1 LOCATION OF THE CERTIFICATION LABEL
Since the information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the
information published, in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or
web sites) it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and compliant installation. In
addition, you will find information about your wood fire (model, serial number, etc.). You can find
the certification label on the back of the wood fire.
7.2 CLEARANCES TO WALLS AND CEILING
WHERE THE FLUE PASSES THROUGH A WALL, CEILING, FLOOR OR ROOFS, VENTILATED DOUBLE
FLUE-WOOD FIRE CASINGS MUST BE USED AROUND THE FLUE, ALONG WITH CEILING PLATES AS
SPECIFIED IN AS/NZS 2918:2001. THE CASING SHALL PASS THROUGH THE ENTIRE THICKNESS OF
WALL, CEILING OR WALL.
See figure Clearances to heat sensitive materials and floor protection to match each letter to a
clearance.
A
B
C
F
•
•
CLEARANCES
(ACORN INSULATED FLUE KIT)
185 mm
240 mm
200 mm
1m
CLEARANCES
(UNIVERSAL FLUE KIT)
100 mm
290 mm
100 mm
1m
Top of appliance to ceiling height must be at least 1,500 mm in all cases.
The clearance between the flue and a wall are valid only for vertical walls and for vertical
flue.
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Clearances to heat-sensitive materials and floor protection
7.3 FLOOR PROTECTOR
If the wood fire is to be installed on top of a combustible floor, it must be guarded by a non
combustible material as shown on the dotted line area of the above figures. Install a 845 mm (W) x
870 mm (D) floor protection of 6 mm of thickness with thermal conductivity of 0.8 m2 K/W per 4
mm thick.
D
E
FLOOR PROTECTOR*
FROM DOOR OPENING
300 mm
200 mm**
*Cement fibre sheet or similar. No protection is required if the unit is installed on a noncombustible floor (ex: concrete).
**The floor protector shall extend not less than 200 mm from each side of any ash removal or
fuel loading openings unless the floor protector forms an abutment with a wall or heat shield at
a lesser distance.
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7.4 REDUCING WALL AND CEILING CLEARANCES SAFELY
You may decrease the minimum
clearances to heat-sensitive materials
by installing heat radiation shields
between the walls or the ceiling and
the wood fire. These heat radiation
shields must be installed permanently,
and must be made of a heat-resistant
or heat-tolerant material.
An air gap must separate the heat
shield from any heat-sensitive surface.
Furthermore, the heat shield shall
extend in all directions beyond the
boundaries of the appliance surface by
a distance of not less than 450 mm.
Exceptions may apply. Refer to AS/NZS
2918:2001.
Following the installation of such heat radiation shields, the minimum clearances to heat-sensitive
materials may be reduced by applying the clearances factor in the table below:
CONSTRUCTIONS AND CLEARANCES FACTORS FOR APPLIANCES HEAT SHIELDS
WHICH ARE WITHIN 45o OF THE VERTICAL
HEAT SHIELD CONSTRUCTIONS
Minimum air gap
Clearances factor
dimensions (mm)
Single layer of continuous material
12
0.40
Single layer of continuous material
25
0.30
12+12
0.20
Two spaced layers of continuous material
NOTES:
1- Masonry may be used as a heat shield material.
2- Where heat shields are used to reduce appliance clearance dimensions, additional flue
shielding may also be required. Refer to AS/NZS 2918:2001.
3- Non standard installations – Refer to AS/NZS 2918:2001 for guidance.
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CONSTRUCTIONS AND CLEARANCES FACTORS FOR APPLIANCES HEAT SHIELDS
WHICH ARE MORE THAN 45o OFF THE VERTICAL
HEAT SHIELD CONSTRUCTIONS
Minimum air gap
Clearances factor
dimensions (mm)
Single layer of continuous material
12
0.80
Single layer of continuous material
25
0.60
NOTES:
1- Masonry may be used as a heat shield material.
2- Where heat shields are used to reduce appliance clearance dimensions, additional flue
shielding may also be required. Refer to AS/NZS 2918:2001.
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8 THE FLUE SYSTEM
8.1 GENERAL
The flue system, made up of the flue system and the flue between the wood fire and the flue
system, acts as the engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best wood fire will not
function safely and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable flue system.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the wood fire and flue into the flue system is not waste
heat. This heat is what the flue system uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air, keeps
smoke inside the wood fire and safely vents exhaust to outside. You can think of heat in the flue
gas as the fuel the flue system uses to make draft.
8.2 SUITABLE FLUE SYSTEMS
Your wood fire will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 150 mm
diameter flue system. The cross-sectional area of the flue shall be within 20 percent of the flue
collar opening
To be suitable, a factory built Insulated Flue Kit
must comply with AS/NZS 2918 Appendix F or
AS/NZS 2918 Appendix B.
8.2.1 FACTORY BUILT INSULATED FLUE KITS
Factory built flue kits are normally sold as a
complete system, (not just the flue pipe), with
all the components needed to install a heater
into a normal 2.4 metre (8 foot) timber stud
wall, low pitched roof home. Each flue kit
should contain a set of installation instructions
covering all the components supplied in the kit.
Incorrect installation of these kits is a major
source of post installation problems and no
short cuts should be taken. All components
supplied in the kit are required and should be
used to ensure the installation is correct and
safe. It is essential the flue pipe is
manufactured from stainless steel that meet
the specifications stated in AS/NZS 2918, as
stainless steel can be damaged by excessive
stress in the lock forming process or by faulty
machinery.
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8.2.2 MASONRY FLUE SYSTEMS
The wood fire may also be connected
to a masonry flue system, provided
the flue system complies with AS/NZS
2918 or with the construction rules
found in the building code enforced
locally. The flue system must have
either a clay liner or a suitably listed
stainless steel liner. If the masonry
flue system has a square or
rectangular liner that is larger in cross
sectional area than a round 150 mm
(6”) flue, it should be relined with a
suitably listed 150 mm (6”) stainless
steel liner. Do not downsize the flue to
less than 150 mm (6”) unless the flue
system is straight and exceeds 8 m (25
feet) in height. When passing through
a combustible wall, the use of an
insulated listed thimble is required.
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8.3 MINIMUM FLUE SYSTEM HEIGHT
Flue heights and lengths from AS/NZS 2918:2001
The top of the flue system should be tall enough to be above the air turbulence caused when wind
blows against the house and its roof.
The flue exit shall be located outside the building in which the appliance is installed so that:
a) The flue pipe shall extend not less than 4.6 m above the top of the floor protector;
b) The minimum height of the flue system within 3 m distance from the highest point of the
roof shall be 600 mm above that point;
c) The minimum height of the flue system further than 3 m from the highest point of the roof
shall be 1000 mm above roof penetration;
d) No part of any building lies in or above a circular area described by a horizontal radius of 3
m about the flue system exit.
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8.4 THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE FLUE SYSTEM AND THE HOUSE
Because the flue system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have the right
characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold downdraught when there is no fire in the
wood fire, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is opened for loading.
There are two guidelines to follow. First, the flue system should be installed up through the heated
space of the house, not out and up an outside wall. Second, the flue system should penetrate the
top of the building at or near the highest heated space.
8.4.1 WHY INSIDE FLUE SYSTEMS ARE PREFERRED
Flue systems that rise straight up from the wood fire flue collar provide the best performance. Flue
systems that rise inside the warm space of the house tend to provide a small amount of draft even
when there is no fire burning. This means that when you light a fire, the initial smoke goes up the
flue system and strong draft builds quickly as the flue system warms up. Flue systems that exit a
house wall and run up outside can cause problems.
Good System Design
Inside flue systems are preferred because even
when no fire is burning, there is normally upward
flow in the system.
Inferior System Design
Outside flue systems are a problem
because when no fire burns they will go
into cold downdraught if the wood fire is
installed low in the house.
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8.4.2 WHY THE FLUE SYSTEM SHOULD PENETRATE THE HIGHEST HEATED SPACE
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This tendency of
warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack effect’, it produces
a slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a slightly positive pressure
zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to a flue system that is
shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure low in the house will
compete against the desired upward flow in the flue system.
There are two reasons why the flue
system in the house at right will cold
downdraught when it is cold outside
and there is no fire burning in the
wood fire. First, the flue system runs
up the outside of the house, so the
air in it is colder and denser than the
warm air in the house. And second,
the flue system is shorter than the
heated space of the house, meaning
the negative pressure low in the
house will pull outside air down the
flue system, through the wood fire
and into the room. Even the finest
wood fire will not work well when
connected to this flue system.
______________________________________________________________________________ 39
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
8.5 INSTALLING THE FLUE CONNECTOR
The flue has been called ‘the weak link’ in the safety of wood heating systems because failure to
install the flue connector properly (which has been common in the past) can result in house fires.
The best flue is one that rises straight up from the wood fire to the base of the flue system with no
elbows. Straight assemblies are less likely to cause problems like smoke roll-out when the door is
opened for loading. They are also more stable and easier to maintain than assemblies with elbows.
Horizontal runs of flue should be avoided where possible because they reduce flue system draft.
Use 45 degree elbows where possible, instead of 90 degree elbows.
40 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
The rules below are based on those found in the AS/NZS 2918:2001 installation code. Please
carefully follow these installation instruction rules, or those enforced where you live.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Maximum overall length of straight flue system: not less than 4.6 m above the top of the floor
protector.
The flue should be as short and direct as possible between the wood fire and flue system. The
use of two 45 degree elbows is often preferable to a single 90 degree elbow because less
turbulence is created in the exhaust flow and they result in less horizontal run.
Flue must be at least 24 gauge in thickness.
Flue joints should overlap 30 mm.
Each joint in the flue must be fastened with at least three screws.
The flue must have allowance for expansion: elbows in assemblies allow for expansion; straight
assemblies should include an inspection wrap with one end unfastened, or a telescopic
section.
There must be provision for cleaning of the flue, either through a clean out or by removal of
the flue. Removal of the flue should not require that the wood fire be moved.
The male ends of the sections must be oriented towards the appliance so that falling dust and
condensation stay inside the wood fire.
A flue must never pass through a combustible floor or ceiling or through an attic, roof space,
closet or concealed space.
Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction is desired, the
installation shall conform to AS/NZS 2918:2001.
The ideal flue is one that rises straight up from the appliance flue collar and directly into the flue
system with no elbows. A straight up flue needs either a telescopic length or an inspection wrap
(flue coupler) to allow it to be assembled and disassembled without moving the wood fire.
A straight flue offers the least restriction to gas flow and results in stronger draft. Straight
assemblies also need less maintenance because there are no corners to collect creosote.
The flue must be in good condition.
______________________________________________________________________________ 41
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 1: REVERSING THE DOOR OPENING AND ADJUSTING THE
HANDLE
The Matrix is equipped with a reversible door in case you prefer a door opening on the other side.
Follow the steps below if you wish to avail yourself of this feature:
•
Remove the top decorative stones or tinted glass (A). Then the decorative top (B) by lifting the
side of the flue and sliding it towards the back to release it from the front linkage.
•
Remove the screw (J) and the handle (K) from the air control lever.
•
Slightly unscrew the screws (F) securing the air control cover (D).
•
Slightly unscrew the screws securing the cast iron facing (C) and (E) then lift each piece 13 mm
in order to remove them.
•
Remove supports (G) and (H) by slightly unscrewing the 4 screws (I), then lift each piece 13 mm
in order to remove them.
42 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
•
Remove the latch (M) and reinstall the
screws (L) that were securing the assembly
into the holes.
Note: To avoid dropping the door due to its
weight, get help from another person to perform
the following steps.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Remove screws (L) securing the hinges to
the firebox.
Rotate the door over 180 degree and
secure the hinges on the other side. It is
important to reinstall the screws in the holes
left by removal of the door.
To reverse the door handle (Q), remove the
spring pin (R), the 2 washer (S), and the
assembled balled latch (T) and the
cylindrical pin (U).
Unscrew the 2 bolts (N) that holds the
handle guide (O) in place. Remove the
spacers (P).
Unscrew the lock nut (V) first, and then the
shoulder screw (X) that holds the door
handle (Q) and the washer (W) on the
handle guide (O).
Remove the door handle (Q), rotate it a half
turn and reinstall it in the same location. Put
back the spacers (P).
Assemble the handle guide (O) along with
the washer (W) on the door handle (Q) with
the shoulder screw (X) and the nut (V).
Make sure the parts are properly
assembled.
Secure the handle guide (O) with the 2 bolts
(N).
Reinstall the assembled cylindrical pin (U)
and balled latch (T), along with the 2 washer
(S) and secure with the spring pin (R).
To adjust the tightness of the door, see Section
5.1.2 Door adjustment.
______________________________________________________________________________ 43
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 2: INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL DECORATIVE PANELS
To install the decorative panels follow the steps below:
•
Remove the top decorative stones or tinted glass (A). Then the decorative top (B) by lifting the
side of the flue and sliding it towards the back to release it from the front linkage.
•
Slightly loosen the screws (C) securing the decorative panel/stone support (D) and (E) on each
side of the wood fire without removing them.
44 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
•
•
For the installation of steel panels, insert the bottom decorative trim (F) then complete the
assembly by alternating panels (G) and decorative trim (H) by sliding them into the spaces (K)
and (L).
For the installation of stone panels, insert the bottom decorative trim (J) then complete the
assembly by alternating panels (I) and decorative trim (H) by sliding them into the spaces (K)
and (L).
______________________________________________________________________________ 45
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
•
Tighten screws (C) in order to secure the panels assembly.
•
Reinstall the decorative top and decorative stones or tinted glass.
46 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 3: INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT
This wood fire may be connected to a fresh air intake kit, sold separately.
Parts needed to complete the connection are :
(A) – 49030, COLLAR 4 1/2" A 6 1/2". (2x)
(B) – AC02090, INSULATED FRESH AIR INTAKE PIPE (4' LENGTH / 5'' DIAMETER). (1x)
(C) – 49028, 5" WHITE INTAKE CAP. (1x)
You can purchase the above parts through your Osburn dealer.
______________________________________________________________________________ 47
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 4: INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL FIRE SCREEN (AC01315)
Open the door.
Hold the fire screen by the two handles
and bring it close to the door opening.
Lean the upper part of the fire screen
against the top door opening making
sure to insert the top fire screen
brackets behind the primary air
deflector as in (Detail A).
Lift the fire screen upwards and push
the bottom part towards the wood fire
then let the fire screen rest on the
bottom of the door opening.
Warning: Never leave the wood fire unattended while in use with the fire screen.
48 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 5: INSTALLATION AND USE OF THE BLOWER AND
THERMODISC
Your Osburn wood fire comes with a blower assembly and a thermodisc kit. The blower assembly
is secured to the back of the wood fire using 4 screws (screws #10 x ½’’ type ‘’a’’ pan quadrex
black. The blower increases the flow of air past heat exchange surfaces and help circulate warm
air in the room. When used regularly, the blower can provide a small increase in efficiency, up to 2
percent. However, the use of a blower should not be used as a way to gain more output from a
wood fire that is undersized for the space it is intended to heat.
You can also install the quick connect thermodisc kit, included with your wood fire, to enable the
blower to start or stop automatically when the wood fire is hot or too cold.
Characteristics of the thermodisc:
•
Starts the blower when the wood fire’s temperature reaches 43 °C (110 °F)
•
Cuts the electrical contact when the temperature falls to 32 °C (90 °F).
Installation:
1. Insert the eyelet of the ground wire (A) in one of the provided screws.
2. Fix the back of the thermodisc case (B) to the back of the wood fire with two screws. The
eyelet of the ground wire must be wedged between a screw and the interior of the back of the
thermodisc case.
3. Fix the lid (C) to the thermodisc case using the last provided screw.
______________________________________________________________________________ 49
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
4. Connect the blower to the power outlet of the quick connect thermodisc and connect the
power cord of the thermodisc to a power outlet in your residence.
When using the blower without the thermodisc, allow the wood fire to reach operating
temperature (approximately one hour), before turning it on. The increased airflow from the
blower cools the firebox and could affect the start-up combustion efficiency if the blower is turned
on too early.
CAUTION: ENSURE THAT THE BLOWER’S AND/OR THE THERMODISC’S POWER CORD ARE NOT IN
CONTACT WITH ANY SURFACE OF THE WOOD FIRE TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE
DAMAGE. DO NOT RUN THE POWER CORD BENEATH THE WOOD FIRE.
50 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 6: INSTALLATION OF SECONDARY AIR TUBES AND BAFFLE
1- Starting with the rear tube, lean and insert
the right end of the secondary air tube into
the rear right channel hole. Then lift and
insert the left end of the tube into the rear
left channel.
2- Align the notch in the left end of the tube
with the key of the left air channel hole.
Using a « Wise grip » hold the tube and lock
it in place by turning the tube as shown in
DETAIL A. Make sure the notch reaches the
end of the key way.
3- Repeat step 1 and 2 for the other secondary
air tubes.
4- To remove the tubes use the above steps in
reverse order.
______________________________________________________________________________ 51
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
Note that secondary air tubes (B) can be replaced without removing the baffle board (A).
Important Notes:
The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:
Model
Type of tube
Matrix wood fire
Front ► 30 holes of 3.75mm
Middle front ► 30 holes of 3.5mm
Middle rear ► 20 holes of 3.25mm
Rear ► 15 holes of 3.25mm
52 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
APPENDIX 7: EXPLODED DIAGRAM AND PARTS LIST
______________________________________________________________________________ 53
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement parts for
your wood fire, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve the right to
change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized dealer to obtain any
of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved parts can result in poor
performance and safety hazards.
#
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
Item
AC09145
30123
30766
30094
PL65633
PL65621
AC09154
30754
PL65695
PL65740
30359
AC09168
PL65622
SE65742
30093
AC06500
PL65615
30755
30117
23051
AC06400
PL65646
SE63024
44085
44087
44119
SE65657
PL65658
30506
PL65612
SE24246
PL65603
SE65772
30450
30124
SE24252
30021
30764
SE65638
30060
30206
Description
BLACK WOODEN DOOR HANDLE
SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/8'' PAN QUADREX ZINC
WOODEN CAP HANDLE
HEX SCREW WASHER HEAD 1/4-20 X 3/4" F ZINC TYPE
SPACER
DOOR LATCH
HANDLE MECHANISM
HEX SOCKET SHOULDER HEX SCREW #10-24 X 3/8''
HANDLE MECHANISM SPACER
HANDLE MECHANISM
HEX NUT #10-24 ZINC
DOOR LATCH KIT MATRIX
LATCH SPACER
HANDLE GUIDE ASSEMBLY
BOLT 1/4-20 X 3/4" HEX GRADE 5
SILICONE AND 5/8" X 8' BLACK GASKET KIT
HINGE
DOWEL PIN 1/4" x 2"
SOCKET SET SCREW #10-32 X 1/4"
MATRIX ROBAX GLASS
BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET KIT (6')
GLASS FRAME
GLASS RETAINER WITH SCREWS KIT (10 PER KIT)
RHEOSTAT KNOB
RHEOSTAT NUT
RHEOSTAT WITH NUT
RIGHT DECORATIVE PANEL ATTACHMENT FRAME
ASH LIP
SCREW PAN TORX TYPE F 1/4-20 X 1" BLACK
AIR CONTROL GUIDE
LEFT CAST IRON FRONT BASE FINISH
BASE
ASH DRAWER
OSBURN DOOR LOGO
SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/16'' TRUSS QUADREX ZINC
RIGHT CAST IRON FRONT BASE FINISH
SELF TAPPING SCREW 8-32 "F" TYPE X 7/16" FLAT HEAD PHILLIPS BlACK
WOODEN AIR CONTROL HANDLE
AIR CONTROL DAMPER ASSEMBLY
THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 x 1/2" F HEX STEEL SLOT WASHER C102 ZINC
ZINC WASHER ID=5/16" x OD=3/4"
Qty
1
2
2
8
3
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
2
4
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
14
1
54 ______________________________________________________________________________
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
#
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
Item
30187
PL65667
30131
SE65659
99999
SE65647
30025
SE24251
22220
23053
SE45641
60284
SE53560-01
60020
44043
44088
SE65822
60196
AC02052
44028
OA10701
PL65668
22219
OA10700
PL65783
PL65782
PL65655
24096
PL36021
29020
PL36028
21387
PL65505
PL65514
PL65515
PL65516
PL65517
21389
AC01315
30569
AC05959
Description
ZINC WASHER ID 17/64" x OD 1/2"
LATCH ACCESS PLATE
BLACK METAL SCREW #10 X 1/2" TYPE "A" PAN QUADREX
LEFT DECORATIVE PANEL ATTACHMENT FRAME
BUILD TO ORDER
TOP ASSEMBLY
1/4-20 X 1/2" PAN QUAD BLACK SCREW
CAST IRON DECORATIVE TOP FACING
TOP SOAP STONE KIT
DECORATIVE BLACK CERAMIC GLASS 4MM
MATRIX INSTRUCTION MANUAL KIT (AUSTRALIA)
POWERCORD (AUSTRALIE)
BLOWER 130 CFM
240V POWER CORD 96" (AUSTRALIA)
RHEOSTAT 240v (AUSTRALIA)
TANGENTIAL BLOWER LOW PROFIL 240V-50Hz (B)
BLOWER 130 CFM
POWER CORD RECEPTACLE
100 CFM BLOWER WITH VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL
CERAMIC THERMODISC F110-20F
SOAP STONE PANEL KIT
BOTTOM DECORATIVE TRIM FOR SIDE SOAP STONE
SIDE SOAP STONE
BLACK SIDE PANEL KIT
BLACK BOTTOM DECORATIVE TRIM FOR PANELS
MIDDLE DECORATIVE TRIM BRUSHED NICKEL
DECORATIVE SIDE PANEL PAINTED BLACK
ROUND CAST IRON ASH PLUG
2 1/8" X 9" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
4 1/2'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD
4 1/2" X 8 1/8" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
TOP AIR DEFLECTOR INSULATION
TOP AIR DEFLECTOR PROTECTOR
FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE
MIDDLE FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE
MIDDLE REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE
REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE
C-CAST BAFFLE 20" X 12 1/2" X 1 1/4"
FIRE SCREEN
ROUND WOODEN HANDLE BLACK
METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT - 342 g (12oz) AEROSOL
Qty
1
1
2
1
1
1
4
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
6
1
2
2
6
6
2
2
4
6
1
2
16
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
______________________________________________________________________________ 55
Osburn Matrix Installation and Operation Manual
Manufactured by:
STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC.
250, de Copenhague, Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures (Quebec), Canada G3A 2H3
After-sale service: 418-908-8002 E-mail: tech@sbi-international.com
www.osburn-australia.com
Distributed by
Glen Dimplex Australasia
NEW ZEALAND
38 Harris Road, East Tamaki, Auckland
For servicing your heater
Call 0 800 666 2824
AUSTRALIA
Unit 1, 21 Lionel Road
Mount Waverley, Victoria 3149
For servicing your heater
Call 1 300 554 155
56 ______________________________________________________________________________
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