HBK17 Katie Body Kit - Roundhouse Engineering

HBK17 Katie Body Kit - Roundhouse Engineering
Modular Locomotive System
Instruction Manual
HBK17 Katie Body Kit
Roundhouse Engineering Co. Ltd.
Units 6-10 Churchill Business Park.
Churchill Road, Wheatley.
Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England.
Tel. 01302 328035
Fax. 01302 761312
Email. mail@roundhouse-eng.com
These instructions cover the construction of the body kit
intended to fit the HBK15 & HBK16 chassis and boiler
The brass panels are photo etched to shape and all fold
lines and holes are etched into the parts where
Only a minimum of cleaning up is required and will
normally simply mean running around the edges with a
small file or emery cloth to remove any sharp edges or
‘pips’ that may be left due to the photo etching process.
As a general rule, all folds should be 90 degrees with the
etched lines on the inside of the angle except if
specifically stated otherwise.
The kit is designed for either manual or radio control
operation and all fixing holes are provided for both
The panels have been designed for assembly with soft
solder, however, if preferred holes can be drilled at the
joints and small rivets or screws used. If soldering, a
small to medium butane blowtorch is ideal, as the large
areas of brass work will dissipate the heat of a soldering
iron too quickly unless a very powerful one is used. Use a
suitable flux with the solder, Bakers fluid being
particularly good, though extreme care must be taken
during use.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging
of any solder, fluids or glues at all times. Glue of any kind
is not suitable for the main structure, but is required for
the headlamp lens.
Refer to diagrams where necessary and hold parts
together with small clamps such as toolmakers clamps or
miniature G or C clamps, during soldering or drilling of
joints. It is advisable to run through the full instructions
identifying all parts and mountings and have a ‘dry run’
before soldering anything in place.
All painting is left to the builder and Acrylic paint is readily
available in spray cans for a good finish. A good primer is
essential and if available an etch primer should be used
on brass parts. A good model shop will stock more
specialised paints and should include etch primer in the
range. Read carefully and follow the maker’s instructions
that appear on the can before using any paint. All parts
must be thoroughly cleaned and rubbed down with fine
wet and dry paper prior to painting.
At Roundhouse, we paint all the domes the same colour
as the bodywork.
This diagram below shows the layout of the cab fittings on the finished model, having previously constructed the HBK15 and HBK16
The version shown is manual controlled.
If you have already constructed the Katie Chassis and Boiler kits
HBK16, one boiler band holding the boiler mounting foot, and the
boiler wrapper will already be fitted to the boiler. We now need to fit
the saddle tank fixing band around the boiler wrapper. If the
chassis/boiler is complete, it will be necessary to remove the
lubricator, gas tank and gas burner.
Unscrew the two union nuts that connect the lubricator to the
regulator and superheater. The lubricator can now be put to one
side. Unscrew the union nut that connects the gas pipe to the gas
regulator. Remove the two screws that attach the gas burner to the
back of the boiler bracket. The gas burner can now be removed
and also placed to one side. Remove the two screws and locknuts
that hold the gas tank to the chassis enabling the gas tank to be
Unscrew the M3 fixing screw that attaches the rear of the boiler to
the rear frame spacer and remove this screw and the spacers
The boiler can now be pulled backwards out of the smokebox - the
cab end of the superheater may need to be straightened slightly if
the boiler does not easily side over the superheater.
Curve the Saddle Tank Fixing Band around the boiler. Place the
band around the boiler so that it is about 1 1/2” from the smokebox
end of the boiler, and the ends of the band come together on the
left hand side of the boiler. The band is secured using a long screw
and nut. Don’t tighten the screw too much at this stage, as the
band may have to be adjusted to align with the saddle tank.
When folding long brass sections such as the side flanges of the
cab floor, it is better to hold the flanges between two pieces of
angle iron in a vice or clamps, as illustrated below. In this way, the
entire flange is bent over in one movement and results in a much
neater finish.
Before the cab floor is fitted, it must first be folded.
When folded into shape, the cab floor should appear as shown in
the diagram above. Ensure that the ROUNDHOUSE ENGLAND
logo that is etched into the brass remains to the top when finished.
Fold the front of the cab floor 90º so it points upwards at a right
The flanges and cab steps should now be folded downwards at
90º, and the lip at the bottom of the step then folded outwards to
form the step.
If you intend to radio control the model later, the bracket that will
hold the cab servo can be fitted. It should be bent and fitted to the
cab floor as shown below. The tags on the bottom fit through the
slots in the cab floor. These tags can then be bent over underneath
and soft soldered to the cab floor.
The floor can now be painted and fitted to the chassis.
Lay the cab floor on the chassis so that the rear edge of the floor is
level with the rear buffer beam and the hole in the frame spacer is
visible through the hole above the ROUNDHOUSE logo.
The boiler can now be refitted using the M3 screw that was
removed earlier.
The gas tank may now be refitted. There is a slot in the cab floor
that allows the gas tank mounting bracket to pass through. It is
attached to the chassis as before using the two brass screws and
The gas burner should now be replaced using the two brass
screws. The gas pipe should now be reconnected to the gas
regulator. The pipe may require bending slightly to avoid the servo
The reversing lever should now be fitted to the cab floor with its
brass screws through the holes identified below.
Refit the lubricator. It
should be positioned
centrally above the cab
step, with the drain screw
overhanging the cab floor
Ensure that the lubricator
pipe that connects to the
superheater does not
protrude over the rear
buffer beam, as this will foul
the body when we come to
fit this later.
We will now start to work on the main body. Quite a lot of folding is
required, and you will remember from the introduction the general
rule regarding this: All folds should be 90 degrees, with the etch lines on the inside of
the angle except where specifically stated otherwise.
Bearing this in mind, fold the 6 panels numbered 1 to 6 in the
diagram below. Panels 1 to 4 are folded outwards whilst panels 5
and 6 are folded inwards.
The picture on the
right shows the cab
back after the panels
have been folded.
We now need to fit the Saddle Tank Front into the Saddle Tank.
Push the saddle tank curved front into the end of the saddle tank. It
should be inset from the edge by about 3mm so that the reverse
side of the rivet detail is just visible - see the picture below.
We are mainly concerned that the top of the arc is correctly
positioned at this stage, as we will clamp the two pieces together
here. Use a small G clamp or C clamp as shown in the picture
below, and apply a small amount of solder just at this top point.
After soldering at the top,
remove this clamp. Next, using
two clamps, clamp both the
bottom edges of the front to the
bottom of the saddle tank.
Make sure that the sides of the
saddle tank are as close to the
sides of the curved front as
possible, and that the curved
front follows the rivet detail so
that it is set at an even
distance from the front of the
saddle tank. Run some Bakers
fluid around the outside joint so that when you solder from inside
the solder will be pulled through to form a neat join.
Put the saddle tank to one side while the cab is soldered. Clamp
the cab as shown below, check that the joint is held square and
solder along the length of the joint.
When the cab is cool enough to handle take the saddle tank and
carefully push the tags at the back through the corresponding slots
in the cab front. It is best to leave the clamps on the cab body in
place to avoid the risk of the joint here springing apart as the
saddle tank is soldered into the cab. Bend the tags downward so
that the saddle tank is fixed in position. The tags can now be
soldered. If you run some Bakers fluid around the front where the
saddle tank meets the cab, solder should be pulled through and
form a neat joint here.
Fold the lamp brackets
as shown in the
diagram to the left. The
side tabs can then be
pushed through the
rear of the body in the
shown in the diagram
on the right. The tabs
can then be bent over
and then soldered in
We are almost ready to paint the completed body. Now is a good
time to prepare the completed body prior to painting. Refer to the
instructions in the introduction. Before painting the body, but after
the body has been prepared, fit the white
metal Tank Filler Base into the smaller of the
two holes in the top of the saddle tank. Use an
epoxy glue such as Araldite.
Fold the cab roof hinge as shown in the picture below right, and
attach it to the underside of the cab roof using two 8BA
countersunk screws and nuts. Countersink the holes on the top of
the roof that these screws pass through, so that the head of the
screw is flat with the roof. The hinge has slotted holes to allow for
adjustment of the roof position. Check roof and hinge position on
top of the cab and tighten the screws up. File away any excess
thread that protrudes through the nut. The roof may now be painted
and put to one side until we are ready to fit it to the completed
When the body is completely dry, spectacles, handrail knobs and
handrails can be fitted.
The two tags on each spectacle should be folded back at right
angles - the etched detail should be to the front. The spectacles
can now be fitted to the cab front by pushing the tags through the
slots provided. The tags are then simply bent over on the inside.
They do not require soldering or gluing.
The eight handrail knobs should be fitted as shown in the diagram
below. They are secured with 8BA nuts from the inside. It is easier
to slide the handrails into the handrail knobs if they are left slightly
loose at this stage. Slot a handrail through the holes in the top and
bottom handrails, check that it is positioned correctly and tighten up
the 8BA nuts. Usually they will hold in place perfectly well, but if
they do become loose they can be secured by glue or Loctite 601.
The brass Dummy Injector can now be fitted. This simply slots into
the rectangular hole underneath the right hand side of the saddle
tank, near the cab. The two ‘pipes’ should point towards the cab.
Put a small amount of glue into the slot in the injector and hold in
place with a little tape until the glue has set.
Before fitting the body, the reversing lever should be connected to
the lifting arm. Pull the lifting arm backwards into reverse gear and
pull the reversing lever fully backwards. Check the length of rod
needed and remove any excess. The rod may now be connected to
both the reversing lever and lifting arm and checked to ensure even
movement. It is important that the radius rod does not move
completely to the top or bottom of the expansion link. Set the
screws that act as stops, in the reversing lever so that the a small
gap (about 1/16”) is left at the top and bottom of the expansion link
The exact position of the stops can be determined by running the
chassis or loco on blocks and moving the lever as it is running.
Adjust the lever for smoothest running in both forward and reverse
then tighten the stops accordingly.
The completed, painted body can now be fitted. Carefully place the
body over the gas tank and lubricator. Remove the lubricator drain
screw. The left hand side may need to be eased over the lubricator
drain. Check that it is square and seated correctly all round.
At the front of the saddle tank, check that the hole through the Tank
Filler Base lines up with the Saddle Tank Fixing Band boss, and
use the 4BA countersunk screw to secure the front of the saddle
tank. The brass tank filler can now be dropped into the Tank Filler
A M3 brass screw should be used to secure the bottom rear of the
cab to the rear buffer beam.
The cab roof is attached by a M2 screw, washer and nut at either
side. These screws both pass through from the outside with a
washer between the cab and the hinge, and a nut on the inside.
These screws and nuts should be left slightly loose to allow the
hinge to operate. A spot of ‘Loctite’ or, if this is not available, paint,
on the threads will prevent the nut from coming off.
The dummy whistle sits on top of the roof over the small hole at the
front, centre. Push the screw from the whistle, through the hole
from underneath, and screw into the whistle to secure.
The dummy roof vent was originally used as the main aerial. With
2.4 GHz R/C equipment it is no longer needed for this purpose, and
is purely a cosmetic addition to the roof. If you are using 2.4 GHz
R/C, then the long tab is redundant and can be either folded
underneath or removed. If you are using 40 MHz R/C then the
aerial lead from the receiver will need to be soldered to this tab.
The long tab should be bent over at 90 degrees so that it passes
down through the large hole at the front of the roof next to the
dummy whistle.
Using the double sided sticky pads fix the vent to the cab. These
pads are to insulate it from the roof, so ensure that there is no
contact between any part of it and the roof Check particularly
where it sits over the heads of the battery clip fixing screws and
round the dummy whistle. Any metal to metal contact will short
circuit the aerial and cause interference with the radio signal.
Finally, the brass dome simply sits over the safety valve
Cab body panel (folded)
Cab floor
Saddle tank (pre rolled)
Saddle tank front
Servo Bracket
Roof hinge
Saddle tank fixing band with screw & nut
Brass dome
Dummy Roof Vent with sticky pads & heat shrink
Brass spectacles
Brass lamp brackets
Saddle tank insert (white metal)
Brass dummy tank filler
Dummy whistle with screw fitted
Cast brass dummy injector
Brass handrail knobs
Brass handrails
8BA nuts
8BA x 3/16” brass countersunk screws
M2 Brass screws, Nuts & Washers
4BA x 3/16” steel countersunk screw
M3 brass screw
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