- Diggity Designs
STEP 1
1) Assemble the steering rack (#420-017) using two 3mm x 20mm flat head stainless screws (#420-031), two 3mm nuts (#420-039), two
steering bushings (#420-024), two 3mm washers (#420-037), and two 3mm lock nuts (#420-041). You will want to tighten the lock nuts all the
way. Use the existing black ball ends from your TC3 or TC4 (#3858) and attach to the steering rack. NOTE: If the rack is binding make sure
the two 3mm x 20mm flat head screws are not off center; you can use Assoc (#3911) black shims to take any up and down play out.
2) Assemble the front differential housings (#420-013) as shown. You will want to start with one stock Associated diff shim (#3911) and one
Diggity Designs diff shim (#420-036) on both sides of the differential. You will make the proper adjustments later if needed. Using four 4-40
x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427) secure the left and right side differential housings. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN
STEP 1
Steering rack update! Some people have had binding problems with their steering guide bushings. To take care of this problem the one piece
UPDATE!! brass steering guide bushings #420-024 are now split in to two parts making four brass steering guide bushings. This allows for the steering
guide bushings to move against eachother more freely (if binding occurs, use a little oil or lube for the first run to break the bushings in). We
now use four #420-039 3mm hex nuts under the steering rack, this will raise your steering rack and get rid of bump steer.
STEP 2
1) Assemble the rear differential housings (#420-013) as shown. You will want to start with one stock Associated diff shim (#3911) and one
Diggity Designs diff shim (#420-036) on both sides of the differential. You will make the proper adjustments later if needed. Using four 4-40 x
1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427) secure the left and right side differential housings. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN .
2) Attach the motor mount (#420-010) to the chassis using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427) DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN.
Attach the aluminum antenna mount (#420-50) to the chassis using one 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screw (#420-427). There are four
mounting holes for the antenna mount depending on radio equipment location.
STEP 3
1) Attach the front inner pin blocks (#420-019) using four 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427) to secure them to the chassis DO
NOT FULLY TIGHTEN. NOTE: You will use two 3mm x 8mm flat head stainless screws (#420-030) to attach the servo mounts.
2) Slide the stock Associated hinge pins (#3866) through the aluminum front arms (#420-011). You will use one brass swivel bushing(#420026) and one brass washer (#420-062) on each end of the hinge pin as shown. Make sure the brass swivel bushings (#420-026) are on correctly
shown in the box below NOTE: you might need to press the bushings on using a light hammer. Slide the front arms (#420-011) into the inner
hinge pin blocks (#420-019) first and then finish the assembly by sliding the 0 degree pin block (#420-020) onto the other end of the hinge pins
and secure to the chassis using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427). DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN
Brass Hinge Pin spacer washers! There will either be 8 thin brass spacer washers or 4 (white or black) delrin washers included in your kit. If
binding occurs when using the delrin washers you will need to sand them with sandpaper to thin them slightly, this will make sure the arms are
free from binding.
Delrin Cone Bushings! These are included for quick replacements of the brass cone bushings.
STEP 4
1) Attach the rear inner pin blocks (#420-019) using four 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427) to secure them to the chassis DO
NOT FULLY TIGHTEN.
2) Slide the stock Associated hinge pins (#3866) through the aluminum rear arms (#420-012). You will use one brass swivel bushing (#420026) and one brass washer (#420-062) on each end of the hinge pin as shown. Make sure the brass swivel bushings (#420-026) are on correctly
shown in the box below NOTE: you might need to press the bushings on using a light hammer. Slide the rear arms (#420-012) into the inner
hinge pin blocks (#420-019) first and then finish the assembly by sliding the 1 or 2 degree pin block (#420-021 or #420-022) onto the other end
of the hinge pins and secure to the chassis using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427). DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN
STEP 4
UPDATE!
OPTIONAL! Rear arms Reverse mounting! In the most recent runnings of the XLR8 kits, racers running indoor on carpet prefer to run the
arms in reverse with the shocks on the inside of the arms. This allows for faster transitioning through tight and quick corners. Make sure to
use a spacer on the top shock mounting screw to slide the shock out more to level. (It will not be level, it will angle back at the top).
TC4 Front Steering Blocks and rear carriers: We have also noticed in the most recent runnings of the XLR8 that the TC4 front steering blocks
have an extra hole for the steering ackermann and this new mounting location works very well for the XLR8. When running the rear arms in
reverse we like to use the TC4 rear hub carriers but you will need to drill a hole for a set screw like the TC3 ones. We also recommend trying
Losi front C-hubs and rear hub carriers. Aluminum C-hubs and steering blocks give you the most solid platform.
STEP 5
1) Slide the aluminum front/rear shaft support (#420-014) onto the drive shaft (#420-016) followed by one Associated 3/16 x 3/8 bearing
(#6906), two Associated shims (#3911) note: the two shims are a starting point and you can adjust later if needed by taking away or adding
shims. Slide the Associated pin (#3919) through the shaft hole. Finish sliding the Associated drive pinion (#3914) onto the drive shaft and
secure with one 4-40 x 3/16 button head stainless screw (#420-430). Use LIGHT thread lock.
2) Attach the 3mm carbon fibre top plate (#420-050) to the aluminum front/rear shaft support (#420-014) using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head
stainless screws (#420-427). NOTE: you will have to finish the assembly of the drive shaft in Step 6 before you can secure the top plate to the
drive shaft unit! DO NOT TIGHTEN TILL LATER
STEP 6
1) Slide the aluminum middle shaft support (#420-015) onto the drive shaft (#420-016) followed by one Associated 3/16 x 3/8 bearing (#6906).
Slide the gear adapter (#420-018) and spur gear unit onto the drive shaft past the second small hole, slide the short Diggity Designs pin (#420061) through the drive shaft hole and push the gear adapter up to the pin and clip using the Associated Large E clip (#3919). Slide the
aluminum front/rear shaft support (#420-014) onto the drive shaft (#420-016) followed by one Associated 3/16 x 3/8 bearing (#6906), two
Associated shims (#3911) note: the two shims are a starting point and you can adjust later if needed by taking away or adding shims. Slide the
Associated pin (#3919) through the first shaft hole. Finish sliding the Associated drive pinion (#3914) onto the drive shaft and secure with one
4-40 x 3/16 button head stainless screw (#420-430). Use LIGHT thread lock.
2) Attach the 3mm carbon fibre top plate (#420-050) to the aluminum front/rear shaft support (#420-014) using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head
stainless screw (#420-427) and to the aluminum middle shaft support (#420-015) using one 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screw (#420-427).
DO NOT TIGHTEN TILL LATER
STEP 7
1) Attach the drive shaft assembly to the front/rear right and left differential housings (#420-013) by sliding two 4-40 x 3/8 flat head stainless
screws (#420-028) through two aluminum countersunk washers (#420-032) and through the top plate (#420-050) on each end. Slide one 4/40 x
1/4 button head stainless screw (#420-431) through the top plate and secure to the motor mount (#420-010). DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN
2) Attach the drive shaft assembly to the chassis (#420-055) by using six 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427) and securing them to
the aluminum front/rear shaft supports (#420-014) and to the aluminum middle shaft support (#420-015). MAKE SURE YOUR DRIVE LINE
DOES NOT BIND AT THIS TIME, IF IT IS TOO LOOSE THEN ADD A SHIM OR TWO WHERE NEEDED AND IF IT IS TOO TIGHT
THEN TAKE A SHIM OR TWO AWAY WHERE NEEDED AND THEN REPEAT STEP 7. Most shim adjustments will be in the differential
housings, you will want to shim it so that the drive pinion and diff gears are not too loose because you will strip the gears if its not properly
adjusted. Once you have a set shimming selection then you will always use the same when rebuilding your car.
STEP 8
1) Slide one Associated 4-40 x 3/4 pan head screw (#7413) through the front shock tower (#420-053) and secure with an Associated 4-40 mini
nut (#7260). Slide one Associated long black ball end (#3858) through the front shock tower and secure with an Associated 4-40 mini lock nut
(#4449). Attach the front shock tower (#420-053) using four 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427). DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN
2) Slide one Associated 4-40 x 3/4 pan head screw (#7413) through the rear shock tower (#420-054) and secure with an Associated 4-40 mini
nut (#7260). Slide one Associated long black ball end (#3858) through the rear shock tower and secure with an Associated 4-40 mini lock nut
(#4449). Attach the rear shock tower (#420-054) using four 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427). DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN
STEP 9
1) In this step you will finally be tightening all the screws. The reason behind this chart is so that you will avoid chassis tweak! After some
racing and a few hard hits you will always want to check your chassis tweak, just loosen the listed screws and refer to this chart to re-tighten
and re-set your tweak. You will want to tighten the screws on the bottom of the chassis first in the correct order and then lay the chassis on a
super flat surface and finish tightening the top plate screws in the correct order. DO NOT USE THREAD LOCK
2) Finish tightening the pin block screws on the bottom of the chassis after you tighten the chassis and top plate screws. Finish tightening the
screws on the shock towers in the correct order . DO NOT USE THREAD LOCK
STEP 10
1) Attach the four aluminum battery brace standoffs (#420-058) to the main chassis using four 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427).
Use thread lock.
2) Secure the long battery brace (#420-056) to the aluminum battery brace standoffs using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427).
Secure the short battery brace (#420-057) to the aluminum standoffs using two 4-40 x 1/4 flat head stainless screws (#420-427). DO NOT USE
THREAD LOCK on the top screws.
BATTERY BRACE TIP: If your battery brace straps are loose, you will want to either tape or glue some thin foam to cushion the braces to the
batteries. This will allow you to tighten the straps and hold the batteries in better without them coming loose!!
STEP 10
V2 LIPO
1) Attach the LIPO brace to the chassis (choose which position of the 3 you want to use) using two 4-40 screws, the included .060 aluminum
spacers and the two included standoffs as shown in the picture (spacers in between LIPO brace and main chassis). Attach the battery strap to
the standoffs using two 4-40 screws.
STEP 11
1) Install the milled bumper (#420-023) to the chassis (#420-055) using three 4-40 x 3/8 flat head stainless screws (#420-028), three 4-40 steel
washers (#420-438), and three 4-40 lock nuts (#420-442). Make sure these are nice and snug. Install the two Associated front body posts
(#8818) using two 4-40 x 1/2 button head stainless screws (#420-432)
2) Attach the two Associated rear body posts (#8874) to the rear shock tower (#420-054) using two 4-40 x 3/8 flat head stainless screws (#420028). You will want to use a front foam bumper, we recommend the P-Dub racing foam front bumper.
STEP 12
1) Attach the rear hub carrier Associated (#3876) or we recommend Losi xxx-s 0 degree (#Losa9847) to the aluminum rear arm (#420-012)
using the Associated hinge pin (#3866), and two Associated plastic washers (#4187). Secure with set crew on hub carrier. Attach the wheel
hexes. Install the 8-32 set screws (#420-059) to use for droop adjustment. NOTE: When using Losi rear hub carriers you will need to add one
small gold shim between the arm and hub carrier as shown.
2) Attach the Associated 4 degree front spindle and block carriers (#3873) or we recommend Losi xxx-s 4 degree front spindles and block
carriers (#Losa9757) to the aluminum front arms (#420-011) using the Associated hinge pin (#3866) and securing it with the set screw on the
carrier. Attach the wheel hexes. Install the 8-32 set screws (#420-059) to use for droop adjustment. NOTE: Use the 4-40 stainless nut (#420440) on the steering block to reduce bump steer as shown.
STEP 13
1) Install the four threaded shocks Associated (#3963) or any comparable threaded shocks using one Associated (#6473) shock bushing and
one 4-40 lock nut (#420-442) on the tops. Use one 4-40 x 1/2 button head stainless screw (#420-432) on the bottoms of the shocks.
2) Install your servo as shown using the stock Associated servo mounts (#7336) and mounting hardware. You will need to use a Losi servo
saver (#Losa1540 & Losa1542) or Kimbrough mid size servo saver. Make sure you set the servo saver offset to about 7.5mm and then adjust
your radio and linkage to get proper steering.
STEP 14
1) Install the steering, front suspension, and rear suspension turnbuckles using the recommended starting lengths. You will adjust these later
to fine tune after final assembly.
2) Install your motor using two aluminum countersunk washers (#420-032) and two 3mm x 8mm stainless flat head screws (#420-030).
3) Set the batteries on the chassis and see which battery configuration will best suite you. Running the wire on the inside requires a flat wire or
noodle wire so that it does not rub the drive shaft (this is the best way since the wires are shorter). Make sure the wire will clear the top plate.
STEP 15
1) Install your receiver and speed control as shown.
2) Using the example below, route the servo and personal transponder wire below the drive shaft and on the chassis. You will want to secure it
with double sided tape or small wire holds if possible (sold at radio shack and other small electronics stores).
XLR8 Hardware List
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XLR8 Parts List
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