Dillenger 1000W 10Ah Manual
User Manual
Dillenger 1000W 48V 10Ah
Please read through carefully before beginning your conversion
Thank you for purchasing your new Dillenger conversion kit! We know you’ll love it, and with
some care it should last for a very long time. Please read through this manual carefully before
operating the kit.
Mechanical Safety Check:
Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform
a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inflated
within the range given on the tyre sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.
Your First Ride:
Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new electric bike.
We highly recommend the purchase of the Dillenger hub motor
conversion kit. It will make your installation and ongoing maintenance
much easier. This can be purchased online.
Each conversion kit is tested for quality control before shipping to a customer. Before converting
your bike, it’s a good idea to lay each of the components out to visiualise how they will come
together on your bicycle.
Handle Bar Controls
●● Before you begin your conversion, it can be helpful to lay everything out first and make sure
all the parts are there.
●● Something missing? Double check the box, even under the flaps. Those small parts can be
sneaky. If you still can’t find it let us know and we’ll assist you ASAP.
Thank you
Item check list
Install Overview
Safety warning
Preparing for Installation
Installing the Wheel
Battery Install
Controller and Handlebar Controls
Display and E-brakes
Throttle and Grips
Removable Peddle Assist (RPAS)
RPAS and Tidy Up
Battery Operation
Maintenance and Care
Trouble Shooting
Trouble Shooting Continued
Contact Us
Remove Contents
Take your components out of the box. Remove the
protective packaging. Keep track of all the parts that you
remove from the box. – Remove the battery and put it
on charge.
Prepare you bike
Make sure you have measured your dropout slot
widths (approx. 10mm) and the clearance between your
dropouts (approx. 135mm for rear forks). Remove your
current wheel, remove the tyre, tube, rim tape and also
your handlebar grips, shifters and brakes.
Once you have your bike ready for installation, the first
step (after transferring your rim take, tube and tyre) is
to install the wheel and secure the axle nuts. Take note
of the order or the washers so that you can replicate
this when installing onto the forks. Then move on to the
battery cradle and handlebar controls.
Tidy Up
After you have installed all of the components needed to
control each part of the kit, it’s now time to tidy up the
wiring harness and make your conversion look nice and
Once the battery is fully charged, you’ve checked your
tyre pressures and fasteners you’re now ready to go!
Below are some of the main components of your conversion kit.
Battery Rack
4-1 Cable
E-brake Handle
and Throttle
E-brake Handle
and Grip
Wiring/Controller Bag
Battery Cable
Before beginning your conversion, there
are a couple things you can do that will
make the installation more efficient.
Remove your handlebar controls such as
your brakes, shifters and grips. Remove
your front wheel and install your existing
tube, tyre and rim tap (recommended)
onto the new electric wheel.
The first step in any conversion is
installing the wheel. The easiest way to
take off your wheel is to turn your bike
upside down so that your bike rests on the
handlebars, and the seat. Your seat height
may need to be adjusted to ensure the
bike will be stable, when upside down.
Take off your disk brake caliper from the
forks, or release your V-brakes if you have
not done so already. For disk brake users,
it’s much easier to fit the motor wheel with
the caliper removed.
Gear set install
The rear wheel hub motor uses a traditional freewheel type sprocket/gear set. This is very
common and you bike will generally either have this type, or a splined cassette type. Whilst it
is possible to remove your bikes existing freewheel, we strongly urge customers to purchase
a new free wheel from us or anywhere else that stocks freewheel gear sets.
Freewheels are considered to be a ‘one time’ only installation. Once they are fastened, they
can be very difficult to take off and transfer to another bike. It’s a relatively inexpensive
part and will save you time and money in the long run, to purchase a new one with your
conversion kit. We stock these freewheels online and instore for your convenience. You don’t
need any special tools to screw on and tighten the freewheel, as the act of pedaling tightens
the freewheel by design.
First step is to locate the spacer that is used to space the freewheel away from the hub. This
isn’t essential for 1, 6 or 7 speed gear sets, but it’s recommended. Once you’ve located the
small silver spacer (shown below) you can screw on (clockwise) the freewheel gently, taking
care not to cross thread the hub or gear set.
Just a note on gear sets. We stock 1, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed freewheels. There is not enough
width in the rear forks for a 10 speed or more. For customers that are using a 10 speed or
more, you can get away with using the same shifters and adjust your dérailleur so that you
get the correct amount of travel from chain ring 1 to 9. Another option is to purchase a 9
speed shifter which is very affordable. For anyone that isn’t satisfied with a comprise on gear
sets to make space for a 1,000W hub motor (which is completely changing the entire bike),
then this kit is not for you.
Wheel Install
For those with disk brakes, the disk brake rotor
installs onto the side of the motor hub just like a
regular hub.
You can use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply loosen
the bolts, remove the black plastic spacer and
install your disk rotor.
Tighten the bolts as shown to maximum 5Nm (40
lbs) tightening torque. If you overtightened these
bolts, you may risk stripping the hub which is
not covered by warranty. If you’re not using disk
brakes, you can leave the bolts and spacer as they
are, or remove them completely. If you remove
the plastic spacer and tighten up the bolts without
a disk in place, the motor won’t spin freely.
If you don’t have disk brakes, you can leave this
side of the hub untouched.
Wheel Install continued
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way that
the fasteners can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more suitable way to
arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need to space the rear
forks out further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the you need more
room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided, or if you need
to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the fasteners to
achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135mm. Your rear forks/
chain stays will flex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural issues.
The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to file off a thin
layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very tight
fit, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.
Wheel Install continued
With your bike upside down, your wheel should be pushed all the way down into the
dropouts to make sure it’s a nice and tight fit. This is very important. If the dropouts are not
embedded firmly in the bottom of the drop out slots this could cause failure of the forks or
cause the electric hub axle to become unsecured.
Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350 in lbs). If you would like to install the torque arm on
the rear wheel, please see the page over.
Battery Rack Install
This kit comes complete with an adjustable
rear rack with a custom built aluminum slide
that interfaces with the battery case and
allows you to securely lock the battery into
place. In some instances, it also looks best
to mount the controller on the stem of the
rear rack. This looks great and also lets the
controller cool efficiently. The other option
is to install the controller in the frame bag
To start, make sure you have removed all
of your racks packaging, including the rack
stays (2), various fasteners and the rubber
cushioning strips, which can be used to
reduce rattle if being used on rough terrain.
Unfasten the rear rack seat post cam latch
almost all the way, so that you can unlatch
the seat post and place it over the seat post.
Clamp in back into position and tighten the
latch all the way by screwing it and then
tightened the cam latch. This should be very
tight. Rubber strips are included to take up
any slack if your seat post tube diameter is
If you have a dual suspension bike the rack
assembly is finished. If you have a hard-tail
bike you can now install the racks lower
stays for added rigidity. These stays attach
to the sides of the rack and to your frame.
This is shown in the adjacent images. The
stays are adjustable in length.
Lastly if you plan to use pannier bags over
your battery, you can install the provided
“W” brackets. These attach to the side of the
rack as pictured and will stop your luggage
carrier(s) from getting caught in your wheel.
Controller Install
The controller switches the power from the
battery to the phases (coils) in the motor
to achieve a smooth rotation at very high
torque. The phases in the motor carry the
current and the hall sensors in the motor
tell the controller the position of the motor
so it knows which phases to switch on and
off. Because of the power of this kit, the
motor controller can get quite hot, so it
is best to install it in an area where it can
disperse heat easily.
The preferred method of installation is to
secure it to the rear rack with the provided
cable ties.
Handlebar Controls
With the motor, battery, rack and controller
mounted, it’s time to move on to the easy
Firstly remove the packaging from the
Display, Throttle, E-brakes and Wiring
Your handlebars should be just about bare,
ready to accept your new controls.
For users with combined shifters and
brakes or hydraulic brakes, please refer to
our separate e-brake sensor instructional
E-brake sensors are available from
Mounting the display is easy. There are just 2 fasteners
that need to be tightened. You can remove the clamping
bracket altogether, so you don’t even have to have a ‘clean’
handlebars in order to slide it on.
Position the display so that it will be hassle free to glance at
during your ride.
The angle of the display can depend on the rider style or
the shape of the handle bars.
This kit comes standard with e-brake handles.
The use of these isn’t compulsory, but it’s
suggested as an added safety. When you pull
the lever, it will automatically cut the power
to the motor.
Start by sliding them onto your handlebars.
Once in position you can tighten the handles
using the bolt (under each lever).
The e-brake handles accept your normal
cable brakes, which fasten inside the lever
section in the same way as most other cable
brake levers.
Pull tight the brake lever all the way and
you will see the same mechanism that
relinquished the end of your brake cable
when you removed it from your existing
Throttle and Grips
Start by sliding the twist grip throttle
onto your handlebars, (usually the
right side). Move the throttle so it
butts up against the brake lever and
tighten in place.
Once you have the throttle secured,
make sure the cable is not fouling the
brake lever, otherwise readjust.
Before sliding the half grip handle
onto the handlebars, make sure you
insert the small plastic bush (you can
see the end of this in the third photo
on this page). This prevents the grip
from rubbing against the throttle.
Lastly, install the full grip on the left
side of the handlebars for symmetry.
At this point your handlebar
installation is completed and
you should have everything in a
comfortable position.
If you require a thumb throttle, you
can purchase these online from
For users in states or territories
that require no hand throttle to
be used, (peddle assist only), you
can pass this step and leave the
throttle absent. Please move onto
the RPAS installation process.
Removable Peddle Assist Sensor (RPAS)
Normally this step would involve the removal of
the crank which can be quite complicated. Thanks
to Dillenger’s innovative RPAS, this step is now a
To begin, have a look at the black plastic magnet
wheel and the way the two halves join together.
When you snap them together on the crank axle,
(on your bike) you will then need to fit the steel
circlip around the outside groove.
The purpose of the pedal assist sensor is to generate a signal from the rotation of the
crank that the controller processes to know that you’re pedaling and want some power!
How does this work? Magnets on the disk generate a changing magnetic field or a ‘hall
effect’ and this is picked up by the hall effect sensor which transmits a signal to the
controller. The pedal assist is the primary function of an electric bike and the level of
assistance is adjustable on the handlebar LCD.
1. The sensor will need to line up very closely (under 5mm) to the RPAS disk.
2. Be sure to have the “working side” text facing the sensor. The RPAS is directional,
so when you pedal backwards, the motor won’t engage (that would be dangerous and
3. With the two halves of the disk mated together you can mount the silver circlip onto
the disk, without jamming your fingers in the process (ideal, but not always possible).
4. When fitting the hall effect cadence sensor, the adhesive section is only there to hold it
in place while you secure the sensor with cable ties provided.
RPAS Continued...
Depending on the style of crank axle you
have, you may need to modify the black
plastic wheel and remove some of the
internal ‘vanes’ of plastic.
You may be required to carefully remove a
portion of the vanes if required. This would
be done with a sharp pair of scissors or
The level of assistance you receive is
controlled by your handle bar display
buttons, which we already fitted with the
display, (up and down buttons).
Tidy Up
In the final stage of the installation,
it’s time to tidy up the wires and make
everything look nice and neat.
In the adjacent images, you can see the
provided zip/cable ties being used to
bundle and secure the cables coming
from the base of the battery, RPAS
and anything else leading up to the
Battery Operation
Unique to this design, the locking key is also
turns the battery on and off, just like a car
ignition. To unlock the battery, turn the key
into the off position and it will turn further in
the same direction by pushing the key in, just
like a car’s ignition.
The battery plug is on the front of the battery
(shown in these images).
Take one of the keys off the key chain before
you’re finished and store it in a safe place. The
keys are coded so if you loose both you will
have to ship your battery back to Dillenger to
have the barrel replaced (not ideal!).
The battery should never be ridden without
being locked into the rack. It should also never
be dropped or treated roughly.
If you’re battery is returned to us and has
signs of being dropped, this will void the
Even with the battery locked in and turned off, the bike should be locked
using a high quality bike lock.
Charging the battery:
1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/outlet,
just like a laptop of mobile phone charger.
2. Check that one of the charger indicator
lights glows green
3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into the
battery carefully, making sure it is all the way
in. Do not force it if there is an obstruction.
4. The charger indicator lights should glow red
whilst charging.
5. Once the charger indicator lights change to
1 red and 1 green, the battery is fully charged.
There is no way to over-charge the battery.
When it is full, the charger will stop charging
the battery automatically.
Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if
fully empty.
The battery should be charged once every
month as a minimum to maintain healthy
The best way to charge your battery is to plug
it in after every use, and leave it on charge
until the indicator light shows the battery is
fully charged. It is not good practice to only
half or partially charge the battery.
Only charge the batteries with the specified charger. Using a different
charger could damage your battery.
Maintenance and Care
A little extra maintenance is required over
and above a normal bicycle.
One of the main things you may come across
is that your spokes need to be tightened
more often than a non-electric wheel. Our
wheels use 12G and 13G stainless steel
spokes which handle the load and torque
of these motors very well, but are more
susceptible to coming loose.
A spoke-tightening tool such as the one
including in the Dillenger hub motor
conversion toolkit, is ideal.
Check the tightness of each spoke ideally
after the first 100km and then every 500km.
As well as caring for your spoke tension
it’s important to do a check on all of your
fasteners every few months. It never hurts to
go over your bike with tools, tightening and
checking everything that can be checked. This
will ensure you have a safe and well-serviced
Keep your bike clean! There’s nothing worse than having to work on a dirty bike...
Also keep in mind the usual bike maintenance like tyre pressures, brake pads, etc...
The motor in this kit is a sealed unit and requires no maintenance during its design life.
Lastly (just to reiterate) it’s important that you charge the battery at least once every month
to ensure the battery maintains a safe storage level.
Any modifications to your conversion kit that aren’t approved by
Dillenger staff, will void your warranty.
Trouble Shooting
Dillenger’s troubleshooting advice will take you through a logical way to diagnose
any issues that may arise during installation and use.
Before commencing troubleshooting, disconnect all components. Do not short
cut this process. There are countless times a loose plug has caused grief. By
disconnecting all the plugs and then reconnecting just the crucial components, this
will solve any loose plug issue.
Go through one by one plugging in the other components (such as the PAS or the
e-brake handles) to see if any of these are the cause of the problem. In this basic
state you may discover the culprit quickly.
Display turns on, but
motor does not
Check the motor plug from the controller. This is a very stiff
connection and will not work unless the plug is all the way in to
the indicator line. The twisting of the handlebars can sometimes
cause the plug to pull out slightly if there is not enough slack in
the motor cable.
Motor runs backwards
Remove the motor from the forks and switch the direction.
Motor feels like it has
something caught
inside or some kind of
brake on inside
Remove the disk brake bolts completely and see if this remedies
the issue. If the disk brake bolts are too long, they will go too far
into the housing and fowl against the internals.
A high pitched rattling
noise can be heard
when accelerating
The vibration of the motor is very small, but at this frequency it
can do some odd things to the other components on the bike
if they are loose. For example a loose spoke or even a bolt on
your rear rack. If something is just a little bit loose, sometimes
this can reverberate and make a harsh high pitch rattling sound.
Nothing is broken or wrong, you just have to identify the loose
Rim has a buckle or
spokes coming loose
all the time
We would recommend a competent wheel builder to fix any
major spoke tension issues, however there are some really good
youtube tutorials on how to adjust spoke tension.
Spokes has snapped
or missing
Dillenger stocks spare spokes for very reasonable prices, just
check out our spares section online and you can find the right
type and length for your kit.
Trouble Shooting Continued...
Motor does not fit in
fork dropout axle slots
Motor does not fit
within the 100mm
dropout width
If you are not comfortable in removing a small amount of material from your dropout axle slots, then the only alternative may
be to buy some new forks. This is not covered under warranty
because Dillenger is not the manufacturer of your forks. Fortunately headtubes are made to a consistent standard and alternative forks are both readily available and reasonably priced!
Unfortunately there are always going to be rare cases when a
manufacturer of a bike has decided to be different. If this is the
case and there is not enough reasonable ‘flex’ in the forks to
spread them wide enough to accept the motor wheel, you’re
going to have to buy new forks.
Disk brake bolts foul
against the inside of
the fork
If you’re not running disk brakes, you don’t need the bolts so
just remove them. If you are running disk brakes, you will have
to use some additional washers to ‘space’ the motor over to the
non-disk brake side to achieve clearance.
Wiring to a part of the
kit is not long enough
For this problem we stock a wiring extension kit which can be
purchased online. This is usually recommended for rear rack
versions of this kit.
Disk brake bolts won’t
You may require some longer bolts, but be careful they are not
too long and foul against the internals of the motor.
Handlebar too
If for instance you have integrated shifters, you might find that
with the throttle and shifter on the right side, you have run out
of room. If you can’t manage to shuffle everything around to
make room, you may prefer to opt for a thumb throttle, which is
available for purchase from Dillenger online.
I have hydraulic
brakes, or integrated
shifters and brakes
If the e-brakes provided are not ideal, either you can elect not to
use e-brake handles (the kit will still function) or you purchase
from Dillenger e-brake cut-off sensors which can mount to your
existing brake handles, no matter what kind.
I don’t want to use
PAS, or don’t want to
use throttle
The controller is configured so you can run both the pedal assist sensor, and the throttle, or one or the other. If installed, the
throttle will always act as an override.
Display won’t turn
on, unless the battery
charger is plugged in
Check all the connections, make sure the battery is charged. If
the display turns on only when the battery charger is plugged in,
you will have to submit a service ticked with this information.
Trouble Shooting Continued...
Kit won’t turn on at all
Get a hold of a multimeter ($15 on ebay) and test the voltage
(DC) output from the base of the battery. If this isn’t over 41V on
a 36V kit, then the battery may have to be returned to Dillenger for testing and potential replacement. If this is not the issue,
then please double check the connections. With reasonable voltage, the kit should turn on if there is no fault with the display.
Error message on the
Please refer to display manual for error code definition and if
needed, report the error code to Dillenger in a service ticket.
My kit looses power
over bumps
Check all connections to make sure all the plugs are all the way
connected. Check that the battery is locked to the cradle and not
loose. A momentary discontinuity in power will turn the kit off.
My battery cuts out
I would like my
battery capacity
My range has
If the battery is low on power, or you are going up a very steep
hill with a load on the motor, you will likely experience a voltage
cut-off if you have overloaded the controller, or dropped the
voltage below the low voltage cut-off, which is more prevalent at
low power. This isn’t a fault with the kit, it’s just physics.
Please contact Dillenger by submitting a support ticket to
arrange the return of your battery for testing. If the battery tests
above 85% capacity within the first year (from purchase date)
you will be liable for return freight. If it is tested and is
under capacity within the warranty period, your battery will be
See next page.
Trouble Shooting Continued...
Range extension:
If you’re not getting the approximate quoted range out of your e-bike system, take the
following steps:
1. Pedal assist sensor
If you haven’t installed the pedal assist sensor, you might not get the required range out
of your kit. The pedal assist modes only work for pedal assist input, not throttle. If you
use the throttle on low levels of pedal assist, this will not make any difference. Pedal
assist levels are only for pedal assist. The throttle is great fun to use, but even moderate
use of the throttle, with pedaling, is still going to burn through the juice a lot faster than
on a low-medium pedal assist setting.
2. Battery indicator lights – full charge. The LED and LCD battery level displays are a basic
indication of battery charge, but they are based on voltage which is variable and not a
true indication of battery capacity. The only accurate indication of a full charge, is having
charged the battery and the battery charger lights glowing green to indicate that the
battery is fully charged.
3. LED/LCD indicator light – running low
Some customers find that the LED/LCD charge indicator can lead them astray in terms
of how far the bike will go on low power. You don’t risk damaging the system by riding
all the way to the controller low voltage cutoff. Keep riding on pedal assist even after the
last battery indicator bar starts blinking.
4. Hills/riding style/other factors
a. The ranges quoted are from real world testing, with some hills and some flat areas. If
your commute involves a lot of hills, that’s going to impact on the range of the kit. 1,000W
kits are especially susceptible to being drained a lot more on hills (more than 250’s
anyway). If you need to purchase a second charger to charge the battery at half way, or if
you need an additional battery, they will be available for purchase online.
5. General tips
• Make sure the wheels are running free (rubbing brakes can halve your range quite
• Keep the battery topped up between uses
• Make sure the tyre pressures are at optimum
• Pedal harder when taking off and select the right gear for assisting up hills
If you would like to submit a Dillenger service ticket, please go to this URL:
Model (year)
Dillenger 10Ah Upgraded 1,000W (2015))
1,000W Upgraded conversion kit
Main Use
Off road only
Nominal Power
Cruise Speed
Max Speed
Max Rider Weight
Max Range
Battery Chemistry
LiMn2O4 Lithium Ion
Nominal Battery Voltage
Total Weight - No Battery
Battery Weight
Total Weight
Twist Grip
Peddle Assist
Cut Off Switches
Battery Computer
On Board BMS
Other Features
USB charging, battery cradle included
Charger Type
SANS 48V 2A Smart charger with balancing
Battery Cell Type
Cell Spec
Headway 22650 2500mAh
Cell Configuration
13S 4P
Dillenger HQ
3/13 Olympic Circuit
QLD 4215
Tel.: +617 5532 9235
© Dillenger 2015
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