Jet-Tern Marine Selene 36 boat Operation manual

OPERATION MANUAL

Revision 2009-06

Welcome aboard!

Thank you for choosing to include Dragontail in your vacation plans for our wonderful Pacific Northwest.

We are sure you will enjoy cruising among its lovely islands.

Dragontail is a Selene-36, manufactured by Jet-Tern Marine. It is named for a peak in the Alpine Lakes

Wilderness area of the Cascade Mountains near Leavenworth, Washington.

This manual will help you become familiar with the boat. If you have questions about the boat and its operation or about places to visit, please do not hesitate to ask the AYC staff.

Specifications

LOA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 41'8"

LOD ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 37'2"

LWL---------------------------------------------------------------------- 34'11"

Beam --------------------------------------------------------------------- 14' 6"

Draft ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 4' 8"

Displacement ----------------------------------------------------------- 34,000 lbs

Clearance ---------------------------------------------------------------- 22' (mast up)

Engine-------------------------------------------------------------------- Cummins 6BT5.9-M / 210hp

Cruising Speed --------------------------------------------------------- 7-9 knots

Cruising RPM ---------------------------------------------------------- 1400 - 2000 rpm

Fuel Consumption ----------------------------------------------------- 3-4 gallons per hour (depends on speed)

Fuel Capacity ----------------------------------------------------------- 500 gallons

Water Capacity--------------------------------------------------------- 200 gallons

Holding Tank ----------------------------------------------------------- 60 gallons

Important Information

Transmission Oil------------------------------------------------------- Delo 400 30W

Engine Oil --------------------------------------------------------------- Delo 400 15W-40

Fuel Filter --------------------------------------------------------------- Racor 900

Hull Identification Number ------------------------------------------ XJE36002K304

Document Number ---------------------------------------------------- 1151192

Hailing Port ------------------------------------------------------------- Seattle

Chartered through Anacortes Yacht Charters 1-800-233-3004 web address AYC.com

For the future enjoyment of others, please no smoking on board!

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Special Features x Simrad CA44 integrated chart plotter/echo sounder/radar at lower helm x

Garmin GPSMap 478 chart plotter at upper helm x

AP20/AP22 Autopilots at lower/upper helms x

4 KW Simrad Radar x

5 KW Onan AC Generator x

High capacity 160 Amp alternator with external “smart” regulator x

Prosine 2.0 Inverter x

Link 10 battery monitor on house bank x Sidepower 6 HP Bow Thruster x

Kabola B-8 Hydronic cabin heating system with three thermostatically controlled zones x

Heated towel rack in aft head x 20-inch LCD TV in salon x

AM/FM, MP3, DVD player in salon with 6speakers (4 salon, 2 aft state room) x

14-inch TV and DVD player in aft stateroom x Two 9-1/2 foot kayaks in a custom rack on the boat deck

TABLE OF CONTENTS

BOAT OPERATION ............................................................................................................. 5

Pre-start Engine Room Inspection .................................................................................. 5

Start-Up .......................................................................................................................... 5

Getting Underway ........................................................................................................... 6

Cruising........................................................................................................................... 6

Docking (you can never go too slow in a marina or when docking) ................................ 6

Shut-Down ...................................................................................................................... 7

Fueling Up (Diesel — double check!) ............................................................................. 7

BOAT ELECTRICAL............................................................................................................ 7

12-volt DC System .......................................................................................................... 8

110-Volt AC System ....................................................................................................... 9

Shore Power ................................................................................................................... 9

Generator...................................................................................................................... 10

Inverter Power............................................................................................................... 11

Charging batteries......................................................................................................... 11

SANITATION SYSTEM...................................................................................................... 11

Marine Toilet ................................................................................................................. 12

Holding Tank (DO NOT overfill) .................................................................................... 12

Y-Valve ......................................................................................................................... 13

WATER SYSTEM .............................................................................................................. 13

Fresh Water Tank ......................................................................................................... 13

Fresh Water Pressure Pump ........................................................................................ 13

Hot Water Tank ............................................................................................................ 13

Shower.......................................................................................................................... 14

GALLEY............................................................................................................................. 14

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Stove/oven .................................................................................................................... 14

Refrigerator................................................................................................................... 15

HEATING SYSTEM ........................................................................................................... 15

Diesel Heater ................................................................................................................ 15

ELECTRONICS ................................................................................................................. 15

VHF Radio .................................................................................................................... 16

Chart Plotter (GPS)/Radar/Echo Sounder (CA44/DS34) .............................................. 16

AP20/AP22 Autopilot .................................................................................................... 17

ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS........................................................................................... 17

Salon............................................................................................................................. 17

Aft Stateroom................................................................................................................ 18

ANCHORING ..................................................................................................................... 18

Mooring Cans ............................................................................................................... 19

BARBECUE ....................................................................................................................... 19

DINGHY & OUTBOARD MOTOR ...................................................................................... 20

KAYAKS ............................................................................................................................ 21

Getting Prepared .......................................................................................................... 21

Launching the Kayaks .................................................................................................. 22

Getting into the Kayak .................................................................................................. 22

Paddling the Kayak ....................................................................................................... 23

Getting out of the Kayak ............................................................................................... 23

Stowing the Kayaks ...................................................................................................... 23

CRABBING & FISHING ..................................................................................................... 23

SAFETY & BILGE PUMPS ................................................................................................ 23

SOME HELPFUL OPERATING TIPS ................................................................................ 24

Saving on Battery Power .............................................................................................. 24

Maximizing the Waste Holding Tank Capacity.............................................................. 25

DRAGONTAIL PERFORMANCE DATA ............................................................................ 26

THRU-HULL LOCATIONS................................................................................................. 27

MAJOR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPONENTS............................................................. 29

DC Circuit Breaker Panel Layout .................................................................................. 30

AC Circuit Breaker Panel Layout .................................................................................. 30

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Safety First!!

We want you to have a great time on your cruise but most of all we want you to be safe. Please be careful while cruising on the boat!

Use caution and the handrails to keep from

falling off

the boat, especially while underway. The waters are cold in the Northwest—if you fall in you only have a few minutes before hypothermia sets in. While having skills for “Man over board” are important, not needing them through prevention is even better.

Fire hazards

exist; on board are diesel fuel, propane, and gasoline. All burn, some explode. Keep unintended sparks and flames away!

Do

NOT

become a

human fender

! Never get between the boat and anything else…the dock, another boat or (heaven forbid) a rock.

Use caution around any

moving parts

—in the engine room, using the winch, using the windlass.

Safety Orientation—know where your

safety equipment

is located, learn how to use it before you might need it and discuss and perhaps drill with all on board.

Never

kayak alone. Always go with another kayaker or with the dinghy.

Do

NOT drink

and boat—until you are docked or moored for the day.

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B

OAT

O

PERATION

Pre-start Engine Room Inspection

Remember your “WOBBS” every morning: Water (Coolant), Oil, Bilges (Inspect and Pump-out), Belts and Sea Strainer.

x

Check the level of COOLANT in the expansion tank located above the forward part of the engine. Fill to Cool level mark on expansion tank if necessary.

x Check the level of OIL in the engine by checking the yellow dipstick located on the left side.

Check the transmission oil level using the white dipstick located on the right side. Look at the etch marks on each dipstick that indicate the proper oil level.

DO NOT OVERFILL OIL!

Only fill if oil levels are below the ½ way mark. Please use a paper towel or oil rag, not dish towels!

Note the engine takes 15W-40 and the transmission takes 30W.

x Check the general condition of the BELTS, HOSES, and FUEL LINES. Look for any sort of black dust near the serpentine belt that drives the raw water pump and alternator.

x

Ensure the valve on the RAW WATER THRU-HULL is in the ‘open’ position (lever in-line with valve). Observe the glass of each RAW WATER STRAINER for debris. If necessary, close the seacock, open the strainer cover, clean the strainer, and reassemble. Remember to reopen the seacock.

Start-Up

Inspect the engine room before starting the engine. Start the engine from the lower helm station. A full set of engine alarm indicators is located above the lower helm.

x Ensure GEARSHIFT is in ‘neutral’, or the engine will not start because of the “neutral lockout”.

THROTTLE should be run up and down and then brought back to the idle position. Insert the key into the IGNITION SWITCH.

x

Turn the key clockwise partially until the ENGINE ALARM sounds and begin pre-heating the engine. After approximately 5 seconds, press the START button. Troubleshooting hint: If the starter does not engage move the gearshift lever slightly until you find neutral and try again.

x

A prolong engine warm-up is not necessary. However, the alternator regulator and the

Duocharger have a “ramp up” period before they operate at full capacity. Please wait 2-3 minutes before using the anchor winch or 5 minutes before operating the bow thruster. You can stow lines and cords during this time.

x Observe the readings of the engine gauges. At normal operating RPM the oil pressure will register between 50-60 PSI. The engine temperature should rise slowly. The normal operating temperature reading is about 180 degrees Fahrenheit. The gauges at the upper helm read somewhat lower values.

Things to Watch and Listen for:

x

If the engine cranks slowly or fails to turn over, check the condition of the start battery using the voltmeter on the engine-monitoring panel above the lower helm (the engine ignition switch must be in the “On” position). If the engine fails to start and the battery voltage is low, there is a manual crossover switch on the front bulkhead in the engine room. This will combine the engine start battery and the house bank batteries together. If you have to do this, please contact the AYC service desk for additional information.

x If oil pressure is low, shut down engine, and inspect engine compartment looking for possible cause (e.g., loss of oil.).

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If the engine is overheating or there is a lack of raw water expelled in the engine exhaust, stop the engine immediately. Recheck the raw water-cooling system to ensure the seacock is ‘open’

(handle in-line with valve). Next, check the raw water strainer for debris. Close the seacock, remove the strainer, clean, re-assemble, and reopen the raw water intake valve (seacock). Restart the engine and re-check water flow from the exhaust. If water is not flowing properly, the raw water pump may need to be serviced. Seek help.

x

There is a sensor with an audible alarm that sounds if inadequate raw water is flowing.

Occasionally, when the engine is idling it will sound even though there is adequate raw water flow. Usually increasing the throttle slightly to 800-900 RPM will increase the water flow sufficient to stop the alarm.

x

Shift only when in idle.

Getting Underway

x

DISCONNECT the shore power cord (see 110-Volt next page).

x

CLOSE any open portholes, windows, and external hatches.

x

TURN ON your VHF and electronics.

x

ASSIGN crewmembers their various positions. Once outside the marina, idle the engines while the crew bring in fenders and lines.

Cruising

Engage the GEARSHIFTS. Ensure the throttles are in the ‘idle’ position before engaging the gearshifts to avoid transmission damage. We ask that you not run the engine at more than 2200 RPM. Your best compromise between cruising speed and economy is between 1400 and 2000 RPM. If you run at 1400 RPM you will cruise at nearly 7 knots and use a little over 2 gallons of fuel per hour.

Regardless of engine RPM, your actual speed will vary depending upon the sea conditions and current. If you can plan you routes and travel times correctly, the currents will greatly increase your effective speed over ground (SOG on the GPS/chart plotter).

NOTE — Avoid prolonged high engine speeds as it causes higher engine temperature, high fuel consumption, possible engine damage and not much greater speed. If something seems amiss or you hear unusual sounds and you enter the engine room while underway, be sure to wear the sound suppressing muffs in the engine room locker.

Docking (you can never go too slow in a marina or when docking)

During docking, use the FLY BRIDGE HELM for greater visibility to the stern. Have your crew make ready the lines and fenders and give clear instructions on how you will be docking. Often times your crew will need to step off from the swim step with the stern line. Another crewmember will need to be at the bow or mid-ships to hand over the next lines.

Dragontail is equipped with a Sidepower bow thruster that can aid docking or any close quarter maneuvering. There are joystick thruster controls at both the upper and lower helms. First ensure that the bow thruster circuit breaker on the DC panel is turned on (upper right). The thruster must also be turned on at the joystick control by pressing BOTH On buttons simultaneously. An indicator LED on the joystick thruster control will shine when the thruster is on. There is a 2-minute timer on the thruster so if it has been longer than that since it was last used, you may need to turn it back on.

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A battery cutoff switch for the bow thruster is located at the bottom of the first step in the forward stateroom. If the bow thruster does not work, check to make sure that the switch has not been accidentally kicked into the “off” (pushed in) position.

Electric bow thrusters draw huge currents and generate significant heat. An internal thermal cutoff switch prevents the motor from burning out but you should avoid ever getting near that point. Use the bow thruster in short bursts of a few seconds with longer off periods in between. Primary maneuvering comes from the transmission, throttle and rudder. The bow thruster is not a substitute for correct use of these tools.

Note that Dragontail has a long swim step. When turning the boat take the swim step into account to avoid a collision with dock or other boat.

Shut-Down

Before shutting down, allow the engine to ‘idle’ for a few minutes to cool gradually and uniformly. Your time while maneuvering in the marina or finding an anchor site is usually sufficient. Ensure GEARSHIFT is in the ‘neutral’ position and the THROTTLE is in the ‘idle’ position. Turn off the engine by rotating the ignition key counter-clockwise to the vertical position. The engine room will remain quite warm for several hours after the engine has been shutdown. Opening the engine room door in the aft shower helps cool it down.

Fueling Up (Diesel — double check!)

The boat is equipped with two fuel tanks, port and starboard amidships. The fuel cap for the starboard tank is located about 3 feet back from starboard salon door. The port tank fuel cap is located about 3 feet forward of the port salon door. The fuel cap deck key is usually located in the second from the bottom drawer to the left of the sink in the galley. A quarter also works.

The engine operates on marine diesel. Putting anything else in the tank will be expensive at best and disastrous at worst. CHECK AND RECHECK that the correct fluid is going into the correct tank.

Before filling, have an oil/fuel absorb pad handy to soak up spilled fuel. You should have a rough idea of the number of gallons you will need by the engine hours operated. Assuming a rate of 3 gallons per engine hour will get you pretty close to the correct amount.

Place the DIESEL nozzle into the tank opening, pump slowly and evenly, and note the sound of the fuel flow. Pumping too fast may not allow enough time for air to escape, which may result in spouting from the tank opening. As the tank fills, the sound will rise in pitch or gurgle. Pay attention to the TANK

OVERFLOW VENT on the outside of the hull near the tank opening. The sound may indicate that the tank is nearly full. Top off carefully, and be prepared to catch spilled fuel. Fuel spillage may result in a significant fine.

If there is any fuel splatter or spillage on the deck, clean it up immediately for both environmental and health reasons. Wash your hands with soap and water thoroughly.

Replace each tank cap but do not over tighten.

B

OAT

E

LECTRICAL

The electrical system is divided into two distribution systems: 110-volt AC and 12-volt DC. The control panels are located on the right side of the steps leading to the forward stateroom (behind and underneath the lower helm console). The AC panel is the lower section and the DC panel is the upper section. Between the

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Dragontail two is a battery switch (there is only one bank for the house so the battery switch doesn’t do anything). A functional diagram of the electrical system is at the end of this document.

AC power comes from shore power, the generator or the inverter. Certain AC loads (inverter, DC charger, refrigerator and water heater) only operate from shore power or the generator. DC power comes either from the batteries or from the AC system via the charger. A Link-10 located near the power distribution panel monitors the status of the house battery bank and your DC power consumption or charging. When operating from the batteries, turning off unneeded circuits and systems will extend battery life.

Most breakers are labeled by colored dots. Green signifies “usually on”. Red is “usually off.” Blue dots are water pressure or water-related pumps. Yellow signifies electronics or items to use cautiously. No dots on breakers signify irregular use or use with discretion. A diagram with the circuit breaker color coding is also at the end of this document.

12-volt DC System

The boat has three semi-independent battery banks. The house bank powers most boat systems (e.g., lights, fans, furnace, etc.). The starter-thruster bank is dedicated to starting the engine and powering the bow thruster. The last battery starts the generator and is isolated from the other two.

A manual crossover switch located on the bulkhead at the front of the engine room can join the house bank with the starter-thruster bank. It is normally off. Only turn it to the “On” position if the engine batteries are unable to start the engine.

A Link 10 battery monitor is located near the electrical panel. It monitors the state of the house batteries and gives you the current battery voltage, your current power consumption (amps), the power you’ve consumed over time (amp-hours) and the estimated time remaining at the current rate of consumption before the batteries need to be charged.

Four LED indicators across the top of the Link 10 give the quick glance status of the batteries as shown in the diagram below:

When the Link 10 shows two yellow LED’s please begin charging the house battery bank by running the generator, connecting to shore power or operating the engine.

When a single red LED shows, please begin charging the batteries IMMEDIATELY!

Also, if the house bank voltage drops below 12.2 volts without any loads (e.g., microwave, furnace) on it, start charging the batteries.

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The “SEL” button on the Link 10 when pressed displays, in succession, the battery bank voltage, the current power consumption rate in measured in amps (a minus “-“ sign indicates battery discharge), the number of amp-hours consumed since the battery was fully charged and finally, an estimate of how long in hours the batteries can discharge at the current rate of consumption. The Link 10 acts like a fuel gauge for the battery.

The 12-volt panel shows all the systems supported by your batteries. The color-coding on the breakers indicates their normal position when operating the boat. Bilge pumps and other critical systems that remain on all the time are fused and have a separate set of switches located in the 12 volt section located between the upper DC panel and lower AC panel on the electrical panel. You should NOT adjust these from their normal “AUTO” position.

The winches and the furnace have their own breakers or fuses and are not wired through the main power panel. You should not need to deal with them unless they fail to operate.

110-Volt AC System

AC breakers #1, 2, 3 & 4 are powered directly from either shore power or the generator. These are the battery charger, the water heater, the refrigerator (this also runs on DC power) and the inverter. AC breakers #6 through #13 (14-16 are unused) get their power from the inverter. When a source of AC power is present, a transfer relay in the Prosine Inverter connects that power directly through. In order to have AC power on breakers #6 through #13, “Inverter AC Out” - #5 must be on. “Inverter AC In” - #4 should also be on so the AC power comes from AC power source and not from the battery bank.

Shore Power

Dragontail has a 50-amp service but carries a 30-amp cord. A 50A to 30A adapter is left plugged onto the boat’s end of the power cord. There are 30A to 15A and 30A to 20A adapters located under the lower helm seat cabinet. To connect to shore power: x

Turn off all the individual AC circuit breakers then turn off the main AC panel breaker (labeled

“Main 50 Amp”) located below the voltmeter on the upper left of the AC panel. This is to keep from overloading the shore power circuit breaker all at once and causing it to trip.

x

Turn off the “Shore Power” breaker (upper right triple breaker in the AC panel section). If you previously ran the generator, you’ll have to slide to the left the guard that prevents shore power and generator power at the same time.

x

Turn off the circuit breaker on the dock to which you will be connecting the boat and determine what power rating is for the dockside receptacle (i.e.50A 30A, 20A or 15A).

x If necessary, plug the appropriate adapter into the shore side of the power cord then plug the power cord into the boat (the boat’s plug is located on the deck just forward of the starboard side salon door). Next plug into the dock receptacle. Check the power rating/plug size of the nearest dock receptacle. Cords coming off the boat can be wrapped loosely around a railing or secured in a fashion to keep the power cord from coming loose. Do not allow the power cord to drop into the water.

x Turn on the dock power breaker.

x Turn on the AC panel “Shore Power” breaker.

x At the AC panel, check for reverse polarity (red indicator light between volt and amp meters). If the polarity is correct, i.e. no red light, turn on the “Main 50 Amp” shore circuit breaker.

x

Turn on individual circuit breaker and monitor the amp meter (upper right of AC panel) to insure that the shore power is not being overloaded. Large draw sources are the battery charger and the water heater. If the shore circuit breaker pops, turn off individual boat circuits.

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If any onboard outlets fail to work, check the AC panel to verify that the breaker is on and check that the outlet’s GFIs to make sure that it has not been tripped.

Generator

In the absence of shore power the Onan generator will also supply AC power. It has a small diesel engine so some of the same checks that you perform prior to starting the Cummins diesel apply here as well.

x

Check that the raw water through-hull valve (located near the engine raw water through-hull) is open (it is normally cable-tied open) and the raw water strainer is not clogged.

x Check that coolant fluid is at the right level in the overflow bottle.

x Check the oil level. This is the yellow tab located on the upper front left of the generator. It is a tight seal that can be broken by tilting the tab back and pulling at the same time. The “dip stick” is actually a long wire cable that takes a bit more force to remove and reinsert than a traditional dip stick.

x Check that the AC breaker on the generator (near the dip stick) is on and the generator start battery switch (red rotary switch above the generator) is on.

You’ve completed your engine check, now close up the engine room and move to the electrical panel at the steps leading to the forward stateroom.

x

Turn off all the individual AC circuit breakers then turn off the main AC panel breaker (labeled

“Main 50 Amp”) located below the voltmeter on the upper left of the AC panel. This is to keep from overloading the generator circuit breaker all at once and causing it to trip.

x

Turn off the “Generator” breaker (middle breaker at the top of AC panel section). If you previously were on shore power, you’ll have to turn off the Shore Power breaker and slide to the left the guard that prevents shore power and generator power from being on at the same time.

The generator is controlled from the control panel at the lower helm. Press and hold the “Start” button until the engine starts. This may be several seconds. A green light will blink and stay on when the start sequence is complete. Once the control panel indicates that the generator is creating AC power (120 volts, 60 hertz) , move back to the electrical panel and perform the following steps.

x Turn on the AC panel “Generator” breaker.

x While reverse polarity should never happen, check to make sure the reverse polarity indicator

(red indicator light between volt and amp meters) is not on. If the polarity is correct, turn on the

“Main 50 Amp” circuit breaker.

x Turn on individual circuit breaker and monitor the amp meter (upper right of AC panel) to insure that the circuit is not being overloaded. Large draw sources are the battery charger and the water heater.

If you overload the generator, the circuit breaker at the generator will trip. You’ll hear a change in the generator engine sound as suddenly all the previous loads drop off. Turn off one of the large AC loads (e.g., water heater), and turn on the AC breaker at the generator. Sequence your AC power needs so that you aren’t overloading the generator at any one time. Given that the generator can supply over 40A at 120

Volts AC, this should be exceedingly rare.

Running the generator to supply moderate AC loads (e.g., TV, light battery charging) is not advised. The inverter will serve those needs well by drawing down the battery. It is preferred to bundle all of your major

AC requirements (battery charging, water heating, toaster, coffee maker) together to place a significant load on the generator.

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Turn off the generator by pressing and hold the “Off” button on the generator control panel at the lower helm. There is also a switch on the generator for turning it off.

Inverter Power

The Prosine inverter provides AC power to the 110-volt receptacle plugs (e.g., the microwave, TV’s, etc.) when the boat is disconnected from shore power. The inverter does not provide power to the water heater or the battery charger (indeed, it actually is draining the batteries). The inverter control panel is located above the main electrical panel on your right as you descend the steps to the forward cabin. Its controls are normally left in the operating position but if AC power doesn’t seem to be flowing you should check to see that they are set correctly. The inverter itself is located in the lazerette near the batteries.

The inverter’s power source is the DC house batteries located in the lazerette. Absent a source of AC power, the quantity of DC and AC power is limited to the capacity of these batteries. Running hair dryers, toaster, electric coffeepots, space heaters, anything that is intended to produce heat via electricity, will quickly discharge the house/inverter batteries. Either use these items sparingly or when a source of AC power (generator or shore) is available.

Charging batteries

When connected to an AC power source, the inverter automatically becomes a battery charger. The inverter can charge at a maximum of 100 Amps. The inverter control panel will indicate whether it is charging or not. Should it appear as though the batteries are not being charged, first check the switches on the inverter control panel to make sure that charging is enabled. Next, check that the “Inverter AC In” circuit breaker

(#4) is also on.

If the inverter does charge at a high rate for a length of time (>15 minutes), the control panel may start beeping indicating an internal temperature warning. Silence the alarm by pressing the “Escape” button on the control panel. The inverter will still be charging despite the warning.

The engine is equipped with a 160 Amp alternator. A Balmar smart external regulator (located on the bulkhead at the front of the engine room) manages the alternator to supply a high charge rate to the battery banks. Charging of the house battery bank will not begin until the engine has run several minutes. The Link

10 battery monitor will indicate a discharge until the alternator charging engages.

It is not practical to fully charge the house bank of batteries with the generator or a short engine run time using the alternator. The nature of “smart” charging is that topping off batteries occurs at a moderate charging rate. It will generally take a night-time on shore power to fully charge the house bank.

The starter-thruster battery bank is charged either from a dedicated AC charger (AC breaker #1 – “Battery

Charger”) or from the house battery bank via a Balmar Duocharger. The Duocharger maintains the isolation of the two battery banks but provides up to 30 Amps of charging when the house bank is also being charged.

If while operating the bow thruster, a low engine voltage alarm sounds, check the inline fuses of the Duocharger. It is located on the engine room front bulkhead inside the small glass fronted cabinet. There are 30A blade fuses are wired on both the House battery lead and Starter battery lead. Spare fuses are located in the cabinet.

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S

ANITATION

S

YSTEM

Marine Toilet

It is important that every member of the crew understands and complies with the proper use of the marine toilets. This vessel is equipped with two fresh-water electric marine Tecma toilets. Each toilet has an adjacent control panel with 2 buttons, the left button “Before Use” to prefill the bowl, the right button,

“After Use” to flush. To reduce the volume in the holding tank, it is recommended you only prefill the bowl when there will be human solid waste. After pressing the left “Before Use” button, the bowl is filled. After pressing the right “After Use” button, the toilet rinses and flushes. A few seconds after the flush, a macerator pump in the toilet base will move the effluent to the holding tank.

Caution – Never put paper towels, tampons, Kleenex, sanitary napkins, household toilet paper, or food into the marine toilet. Use only the special dissolving marine

toilet tissue provided by AYC. Never leave the toilet bowl with standing water as it may splash onto the floor when the boat is in motion.

To recap, for # 1 (urine only), use the toilet and then press the right button to flush. For #2, push the left button. The bowl will prefill. Then use the toilet and press the right button to flush. Flush sufficiently to move effluent in the hoses; heavy effluent may clog hoses. Clean the toilet as necessary.

Each toilet is equipped with a “Y” valve that directs the effluent into the holding tank or overboard. In

United States inland waters, all effluent MUST go into the holding tank. In certain Canadian waters, the effluent may be dumped overboard. It is your responsibility to know where this is legal. The “Y” valve is wired in the holding tank position in compliance with USCG regulations.

Each flush consumes over a half gallon of water. You can make the fresh water tank last longer by flushing urine after every two or three uses.

Holding Tank (DO NOT overfill)

The sanitation HOLDING TANK holds approximately 60 gallons. Waste is produced at about 0.6 gallon per flush. The holding tank should be emptied regularly as an overfilled tank may result in a clogged vent, broken hose, or burst tank. None of these are pleasant and some can be very expensive. Empty the tank

EVERY FEW DAYS to avoid this problem.

The HOLDING TANK is located under the sole in the forward stateroom. There is a TankWatch warning panel located below the engine controls at the lower helm (by your right thigh) but use your common sense if the indicator never changes. Sixty to eighty flushes means you’re probably near the time to pump out.

The holding tank is emptied in one of two ways:

1. At a Marine Pump-Out Station, remove the WASTE CAP located forward of the starboard side door.

Double-check that you’re pumping out the waste tank! Start the pump, turn the valve open and suck some seawater to ensure the pump is functioning and wet the rubber nozzle. Close the valve and insert the pump-out nozzle into the waste opening and ensure a tight seal. Maintaining a tight seal, open the valve. When the pumping is finished, close the lever on the handle and turn off the pump.

Finally, remove the pump-out nozzle from the deck fitting. A pump out adapter that screws into the waste opening may be used so that the connection to the pump hose can be held over water. There may be some pump out stations where this adapter will be needed due to tight quarters at the waste hole. The adapter is kept in the cockpit bench. Please rinse it well before restoring it.

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If there is a water hose on the dock, rinse the tank by adding 2 minutes of water into tank. Then repump to leave the tank rinsed for the next charter. This also eliminates head odors.

Anybody who handles the sanitation pump hoses needs to thoroughly wash their hands after the pump-out is completed. After hand washing, use a hand sanitizer to complete the process.

2. The tank’s contents can be discharged with the holding tank MACERATOR PUMP only in Canadian waters.

To operate the pump, switch the MACERATOR circuit breaker (#18) on the DC electrical panel from OFF to ON. Listen to the macerator pump’s sound. When the sound changes dramatically, the tank is probably empty. The TankWatch indicator should change to the

green

empty status. A full tank can take as long as ten minutes to empty the tank. You can let pump run for a few moments after the sound change. Once the tank is empty, switch the breaker OFF.

Y-Valve

The Y-VALVE directs waste effluent into the sanitation-holding tank or flushes the effluent ‘directly overboard’. The gray Y-VALVE is located next to each toilet and is wired to keep the handle pointed to the holding tank – the normal position.

Y-valves are wire-tied to the holding tank position to comply with Coast Guard regulations. Please leave it “as is” unless there is an emergency. Be familiar with the applicable laws concerning dumping sewage directly overboard.

W

ATER

S

YSTEM

Fresh Water Tank

The fresh water tank holds about 200 gallons. Check the water level using the Wema tank level indicator at the lower helm. Turn on the Wema unit and then rotate the selector switch to position #1 to note the level.

To refill the freshwater tank, locate the water cap located aft starboard beneath the rub rail next to the lazarette. DO NOT fill water and diesel at the same time! Before removing cap, rinse area first with fresh water to avoid flushing debris from the deck into the tank opening. Next, remove the water tank cap and refill with potable water.

Fresh Water Pressure Pump

The water pressure pump (Flojet R4525-743) is located under the hatch in the aft cabin floor. Activate the pump at the DC panel by turning on the breaker (#21). If the water pump continues to run, you are either out of water or might have an air lock and need to bleed the system by opening up a faucet. If you run out of water SHUT OFF YOUR HOT WATER HEATER on the AC panel or serious damage may occur!

Hot Water Tank

The HOT WATER HEATER (Raritan model 171211) has a 12 gallon capacity capacity. Water is heated either from AC power (shore or generator) or via a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger works either from the waste engine heat when underway or from the furnace. To use on shore power, flip on the water heater circuit breaker on the AC electrical panel. Do not use the water heater if the water tank level is very low.

The water heater is located just as you enter the engine room through the shower.

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Shower

Before taking a SHOWER, make sure fresh water pump and shower sump breakers (#19 forward and #20 aft) are on. Take only very short “boat” showers (turning off water between soaping up and rinsing). To keep the shower tidy, wipe down the shower stall and floor. Check for accumulation of hair in the shower and sink drains. An external hand-held shower is located behind the panel on the right side of the aft cockpit bench. Ensure that the faucets and nozzle are completely off after use.

Grey water from the washroom sinks and showers drain overboard through respective sump pumps located in the forward and aft cabins. Grey water from the galley sink goes directly overboard.

G

ALLEY

Stove/oven

The stove and oven is a 3-burner propane LPG Princess model 3372. The DC breaker #27 “Gas Alarm” for propane must be on as this enables the flow of propane to the stove and the sniffer to detect propane leaks.

The “S-2A Propane /CNG Fume detector and Control System” box is located above the stove.

To prepare the propane system: x Make sure that the valve on at least one of the two propane tanks located in the locker on the forward left side of the fly bridge is open.

x

Confirm DC breaker #27 is on.

x

Press the left button (“Press Valve On/Off”) of the S-2A propane controller/detector located above the range counter. A green light will come on.

x

Raise the galley counter and lock it open.

To light a burner x

Turn the burner dial to IGN and depress.

x

While still depressing the burner dial push the red “burner Ignite” button on the left side of the stove control panel.

x

Hold the control knob in IGN position for a few seconds while the burner sensor heats up, then release.

x Once the burner is lit, adjust the dial to your cooking temp.

Lighting the oven may require two people until fully comfortable with the process. A long neck lighter

(typically stored in the bottom galley drawer) is useful.

To light the oven: x

Light the right front burner and burn for 1 minute to bleed air out of the system.

x

Turn the oven temperature control knob from “off” to “Pilot on” x

Push in and hold the Red Oven Safety button x

Use the lighter or a match to light the pilot located on the right side of the oven burner.

x

Continue holding in the safety button for several seconds after the pilot light is lit.

x

Adjust the oven temperature as desired.

Note: When using the oven, it is easy to burn the bottom of food. Monitor your cooking closely. Putting the oven rack as high as possible may help.

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When finished with the stove/oven x

Turn off the burner/oven x

Turn off the S-2A left button.

x

Turn off the propane at the tank before getting underway.

Refrigerator

The REFRIGERATOR is dual voltage (12-volt and 110-volt power). It will automatically use 110-volt power when the shore power is connected (AC circuit breaker #2); otherwise, it will operate on 12-volt power (DC circuit breaker #17). The temperature control setting is located below the front door. Generally a position of “2” is adequate to keep things cool. Setting it too cold requires more electricity and may freeze such things as lettuce or fruit.

H

EATING

S

YSTEM

Diesel Heater

Dragontail is equipped with a Kabola DIESEL Hydronic Heating System. The Kabola is located in the lazarette. There are three heating zones on the boat, aft cabin, salon and forward cabin. Heat is controlled via a thermostat in each zone. The thermostat in the salon displays in degrees Celsius ( qC = 9/5 x qF +32)

(10C~=50F; 15C = 59F; 20C = 68F; 21C =70F; 25C = 77F). This heating system ties into the engine and hot water heater via heat exchanger. The aft cabin system includes a heated towel rack in the head. This is very handy for drying damp or wet items, including towels. It does get hot and can melt plastic, so be cautious.

There are no electric heaters on Dragontail. The Kabola is easy to use and will keep the boat toasty warm.

E

LECTRONICS

Dragontail is equipped with a complete suite of Simrad electronics. The lower helm has a CA44 integrated radar/chart plotter (GPS)/echo (depth) sounder, an AP20 autopilot and an RS86 VHF radio. The upper helm has a RS86 VHF radio, a DS34 slave display screen (mimics the CA44 at the lower helm), an AP22 autopilot and an IS15 instrument display. The radar transmitter is a 4KW – 24 inch radome.

There is a PC GPS connection (DB-9) at both helm stations that transmits NMEA 0183 data in case you want to attach your own computer with chart plotting software. The CA44 is equipped with two CMAP-

NT+ charts covering from Olympia at the south end of Puget Sound to Prince Rupert just south of

Ketchikan.

Besides the integrated Simrad suite, the lower helm includes a second stand-alone GPS unit, a Furuno GP-

32, and an AIS (Automatic Identification System) receiver. The Furuno GP-32 is a backup for position data in case the Simrad GPS fails. It also is useful for an anchor watch as it requires less power to operate.

If you have a computer with appropriate software (e.g., Coastal Explorer), you can attach it to the Furuno, the AIS or the Simrad. Several serial DB-9 to USB converters are located in the tray at the lower helm station as is a serial cable extension.

All of the electronics are controlled by circuit break #28, “GPS”, and #31, “Electronics”, on the DC panel.

Below are some basic instructions on operating the equipment. To use some of the advanced features, please consult the manuals in the electronics equipment binder located in the bookshelf behind the settee.

To aid in navigation and communication, onboard are binoculars (7x35), stored in a basket on the chart table.

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VHF Radio

When power is first applied to the electronics, the VHF radios will be on. They can be powered on or off separate from the rest of the electronics by pressing light gray “On/C” button near the upper right of the radio control area. Always monitor channel 16 while underway. Other channels can be reached by either using the numeric pad to directly choose the desired channel or by rotating the larger center dial either clockwise (higher channels) or counter-clockwise (lower channels). A dedicated Channel 16 button (red

“

16

” on the control area) will put you back to channel 16 after you’ve completed your communications on other channels.

Chart Plotter (GPS)/Radar/Echo Sounder (CA44/GPSMap 478)

The CA44 is an extremely valuable aid to navigation but is no substitute for paper charts and good seamanship. DO NOT rely solely on electronic navigation tools. The boating world is filled with stories of people who relied on electronics only to have them fail at critical times. Do not travel in fog or strong winds. It is your responsibility to know your location and the hazards on your route at all times.

After power has been applied to the electronics via circuit breaker #31, the CA44 may have to be turned on by holding down the PWR button on the lower row for several seconds and then releasing. This will bring up a software-licensing page. Pressing the PAGE button will bring up a short electronic manual on the

CA44 operation. Pressing the ENT button will immediately go to normal operation. The CA44 can be turned off separately by again pressing the PWR button for a few seconds and confirming your decision by pressing it again at the prompt.

Access the major functions, radar, charting and echo (depth) sounder, by pressing the appropriately labeled buttons on the left hand side of the control area. The screens can be set to display two or three windows with information from the units functional areas simultaneously (e.g., a chart with an accompanying echo graph or a radar display and an electronic chart).

While the chart plotter and echo sounder are powered on and available immediately after the CA44 has been turned on, the radar must be powered up separately via a sequence of command keys. First select the radar function by pressing the RADAR function key on the control panel. Then press the ENT key to bring up a menu. Choices in

red

are NOT available. Press RADAR to power on the radar transmitter. It takes about 2 minutes for the unit to warm up and go in to standby mode. You can go back to the other functions

(i.e., charting or echo sounder) of the CA44 while the radar is warming up. After the radar has gone to standby, press the ENT button again. The menu of choices should now include Transmit. To go back to standby or to power off the radar totally, pressing the ENT key from the radar screen brings up the menu with those choices.

The Garmin GPSMap 478 is a portable chart plotter which can be mounted at the upper helm when the boat is being controlled from the fly bridge. When not used, it should be secured in its carrying case and stored in the forward cabin hanging locker. There are Velcro strips on the unit’s base which mate with the strips located on the upper helm to the left of the helm console.

Laminated instruction cards in the storage box should provide sufficient information to use the unit. It does not interface with the autopilot but only serves as a chart plotter to show your position and the surrounding waters. The unit has charts for the entire west coast of the United States and British Columbia.

The DS34 at the upper helm no longer works. It should be left powered off.

The IS15 is a display unit at the upper helm that receives selected data from the CA44. The most valuable will be the depth from the echo sounder. There are two sets of left/right arrow buttons on the unit. The top

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Dragontail set scroll through the major functions. The bottom set scroll through sub-functions under those major categories. The depth data is located under the depth function. The speed over ground (SOG) is under the speed function.

Depth data from the echo sounder, like location data from the GPS, is a valuable navigational aid but DO NOT rely on it solely. Depth data may be erroneous due to several causes. Paper charts and the depth data they contain should be your primary source.

AP20/AP22 Autopilot

The autopilot can lessen the workload while piloting the boat by holding a steady course. After the

Electronics circuit breaker (#31) has been turned on, hold down the STBY/PWR button on the AP20 unit.

While underway, the AP20 will indicate the current heading and the current rudder position. Pressing the

“AUTO/SPEED” button sets the current heading as the desired course. That course heading can be changed by either pressing the left/right arrows in the desired direction or by rotating the knob above the arrow buttons in the desired direction.

The control unit only allows one autopilot, the AP20 or AP22, to be active. The unit NOT in control will have an “X” displayed and indicate it is disabled. Pressing a function button (STBY, AUTO, NAV or

INSTR) on the disabled unit will switch control.

The AP20/AP22 will also work in conjunction with the CA44 to follow a course or route transmitted to it by the chart plotter. Refer to the Simrad manuals for instructions on doing so.

While the autopilot will hold a heading or in conjunction with CA44 follow a route, it cannot see hazards or take evasive action. Never leave the helm unattended or slacken vigilance while using the autopilot.

E

NTERTAINMENT

S

YSTEMS

Dragontail is equipped with two TV’s, each with a DVD player. In addition, the salon DVD player is an

AM/FM radio and CD/MP3 stereo. Like most electronics these days, using all of a unit’s features often requires referring to the manual. The manuals are located in the orange folders in the equipment file box. A few DVD’s for your use are located in the top drawer of the starboard side head stand in the aft stateroom.

Power for the both the salon and aft entertainment units are controlled by DC circuit breaker #29, “Stereo”, and AC circuit breaker #10, “TV/VCR”.

Salon

The Pioneer DVH-P5000MP is a car entertainment unit located on the panel above the chart table at the forward end of the salon. The TV is a Sharp Aquos 20-inch LCD located behind the panel underneath the chart table. Remote controls for the units are located in the small basket on the chart table.

A small TV antenna is located on the house forward of the fly bridge. Your signal quality will depend totally on your location but will be “rabbit-ear” quality at best. You likely will only receive Victoria or

Bellingham TV stations while in the San Juan Island area. The DVD player signal to the Aquos TV is on the Video 1. Sound for a TV source will come from the speakers on the Aquos. Sound from the DVD will come through the stereo speakers in the salon ceiling.

Pressing the SRC button turns on the Pioneer player. Turn the unit off by holding down the SRC button.

Momentarily pressing the SRC button scrolls the player through different media sources (radio or

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CD/MP3/DVD). The left hand knob controls the volume. What appears like the right hand knob is actually a rocker button. Pressing the rocker button to the right tunes to higher frequencies. Pressing it to the left tunes to lower frequencies. A small button at the lower right selects the band (AM/FM).

At the upper right corner of the rocker button is the “Open” button. This flips the front panel down and reveals the slot to insert the CD/DVD/MP3 disc. Simply insert the disk into the slot. The eject button is located behind the panel, as well. Once the disk is inserted, the front panel can be flipped back up. The unit will auto detect the type of disk. Press the SRC button to choose the disk as the source.

Aft Stateroom

The aft stateroom TV is located behind the panel doors above the hanging locker. It is a Toshiba 14-inch

TV and a Philips DVD player. The remote controls for the unit are (or should be) located in the starboard side nightstand drawer. The DVD player is attached to the Video 1 source on the TV.

A

NCHORING

The primary working anchor is a 30 kg (66 lb) Lewmar Claw (similar to a Bruce) attached to 400 ft 3/8 inch chain passed through the deck from the starboard anchor locker The locker can be accessed from a hatch at the bow.

Dragontail is equipped with a Muir Cougar H-1200 Windlass. First turn on the windlass circuit breaker,

#15, at the DC panel. There is an additional breaker located at the lower helm station near the engine controls. Both must be on for the Windlass to operate.

Windlass controls are located at the upper helm, lower helm and at the anchor station itself. For safety reasons, only the foot switches at the anchor station should be used.

Do not catch anything, especially fingers or clothing in the Windlass.

To drop the anchor, release the anchor keeper at the anchor station. At the bow, tap gently on the ‘down’ foot control (left hand foot button) to lower the anchor. If necessary, guide the anchor over the anchor roller to prevent binding on the pulpit.

Knowing the tide level and the depth under your keel (using the echo sounder) will help you determine how much chain to let out. The boat draws 5 feet and the windlass is approximately 5 feet above the water. Add those two values to your current depth and the difference between the current tide level and the predicted high tide. Multiply that value by your desired scope (at least 3 to 1) to determine the amount of chain. For example, a 15 foot measured depth at a 3 foot tide (going to 10 feet) would indicate about 100 feet of chain

(15 foot depth plus 7 foot tidal increase plus 5 foot draw plus 5 foot height of the windlass above the water times a 3:1 scope). Let out sufficient anchor rode before setting the anchor. Red colored markers are placed every 25 feet on the chain, indicating the amount of rode. After the anchor and rode is down, back the anchor in with a short burst from the engine. If there is additional room in the anchorage, you can let out additional scope depending upon conditions.

After the anchor is set and sufficient scope is let out, snub the anchor chain off with the chain hook and line stored in the cockpit locker (20 feet of ½ inch line with the stubby stainless hook). Place the chain hook over a chain link (not through a link), place the line over the pulpit rollers following the path of the chain.

Fasten the line to the cleat on top of the windlass or to the vertical Samson post. After the chain hook is attached and the snubber line is hitched, let out a small amount of chain until the load transfers from the windlass to the snubber line.

Before raising the anchor, ALWAYS start the engine. It takes about 2 minutes for the regulator to ramp up and start providing power. You should never use the anchor windlass to pull the boat in. Always motor up

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Dragontail towards the anchor and use the windlass to draw the anchor up vertically. The up foot switch is located on the right.

A short section of hose is in the port chain locker for attaching freshwater wash down (also in the port chain locker). As the chain rises, spray off mud and debris before the chain goes into the chain locker. Give the windlass short rests as you are pulling it up. Place yourself in position to guide the anchor but watch feet, fingers and clothing so that the anchor chain does not snag them. If a lot of anchor was let out, you may need to open the chain locker and push chain to the side so that windlass can pile more in.

As the anchor rises from the water, be careful to not allow it to swing against the hull. Wash down the anchor before it is pulled up into its resting position. Close the plastic covers on the foot pedal controls.

Turn ‘off’ the windlass power switch. Restow the wash down hose.

The anchor wash down is freshwater and draws from the main fresh water tank. If you anchor often or use lots of water while washing the chain down you may need to refill your water tank sooner.

A spare 35 lb CQR is stored in the port chain locker. A bucket of 40 feet of chain and 250 feet of nylon rode are in the lazerette. A third anchor, a FX-16 Fortress, is also stowed in the lazerette. It is on a 20-foot chain and 150 nylon rode. Attach the end of the nylon rode(the bitter end) securely to the eyebolt at the bottom of the port side chain locker before using.

Mooring Cans

The State Park Sticker on your vessel allows you to pick up the mooring cans in the parks for free. You must however register the sticker number at the kiosk usually located at the heads of the docks. Mooring cans have a metal triangle at the top upon which is a metal ring. The metal ring is attached to the chain that secures your boat. It is very heavy. The strongest member of your crew should be picked for this job.

Come up to the CAN into the wind as you would for anchoring. Have crewmembers on the bow, one with a boat hook and one with a mooring line secured to a forward cleat through a hawse hole. As you are coming slowly up to the can have the crew holding the boat hook point at the can with the hook so the skipper always knows where it is. Hook the can and bring the ring up to the boat to allow the second crew to thread the ring with the line. Lower the ring to the water and release it with the boat hook. If your mooring line is led out the starboard cleat bring the end of the line back through the port side hawse hole and cleat it off.

You will essentially create a bridle with about 10 feet of slack from the chock to the can.

Leaving a mooring can is easily done by releasing one line, pulling it through, motoring or drifting backwards then motoring away.

B

ARBECUE

The Magma propane barbecue and mounting bracket are stored in the starboard side locker underneath the upper helm station.

The barbecue is mounted to a 1-1/4 inch rail. The preferred location is on the horizontal rails between the mast and the steps to the fly bridge. Attach the mounting bracket to the top rail and adjust it so as to not interfere with access to the fly bridge or the settee. Be sure the boom is secured because a swinging boom could easily slam into the barbecue damaging the barbecue or the rail.

Attach a propane bottle to the regulator attached to the bottom of the barbecue. Carefully light the unit, preferably with the long-stem butane lighter. The barbecue generates a lot of heat and cooks hot and fast.

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To remove the barbecue, simply loosen the rail clamp. Store the barbecue unit back in the starboard upper helm locker. Please wipe the barbecue with a paper towel before storing to prevent grease and dirt build-up and clean any spills on the deck under the barbecue of any grease that may have dripped.

Note: Propane bottles are not stocked onboard by AYC. You will need to purchase one from AYC if one wasn’t left by a previous charter. Caution -- For safety reasons, do not store an opened propane bottle within the salon or engine compartment. Chances are these will leak slightly once opened and propane gas could settle into low spaces. Store full or partially used bottles in the propane locker to the left of the upper helm. For safety, ensure gasoline and flammable materials are not near the barbecue.

D

INGHY

& O

UTBOARD

M

OTOR

Dragontail is equipped with an inflatable dinghy and 3.3 hp Mercury engine. The dinghy is stored on chocks (rails) on the aft boat deck. The motor is mounted to the dinghy transom and stored in the up position. The dinghy has a capacity of about 950 pounds (motor, equipment, and people). This should accommodate three to four passengers. The dinghy tubes do go soft and may need to be pumped up. A large volume manual pump is located in the locker on the boat deck forward of the dinghy and back of the main cabin.

The boom has two electric winches to help deploy and retrieve the dinghy. The winch controls are stored underneath the bench locker next to the mast. Each control and control box is labeled either “Boom” or

“Dinghy”. To avoid confusion when operating the winch, make sure the “Boom” control is plugged into the

“Boom” control box and likewise for the “Dinghy” control and control box. The boom control raises (“In”) or lowers (“Out”) the boom towards the mast. The dinghy control raises (“In”) or lowers (“Out”) the dinghy

(when attached to the cable) towards the boom.

The starboard side line that secures the boom should be used to help control the boom. After releasing the line from the rail at the end of the boat deck, run an end around a rail on fly bridge. The person controlling at the fly bridge can keep the boom from swinging to port.

Launching the dinghy takes a minimum of two people, one at the winch control and one to control and guide the dinghy into the water.

A three-point lifting harness attaches to a bowline harness and to two U-bolts on the dinghy transom. The three lines come together at an “O” ring that is attached to snap link at the end of the winch cable. Unless there is some unusual interference with dinghy passengers, simply leave the lifting harness attached to the three dinghy points at all times.

The winch is only designed to lift an empty dinghy. No people or equipment should be loaded in the dinghy until after the dinghy is in the water, brought back around to the swim step and secured to the boat. The empty dinghy and motor weigh about 140 pounds.

Next, raise the boom so that the cable from the boom end to the dinghy runs vertically. You may need to let out cable on the dinghy winch while you are doing this. The purpose is to not raise the boat from the chocks prematurely. Once raised from the chocks, the dinghy will swing out until vertical under the boom.

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Be careful of the swinging boom! Once the dinghy is clear of the chock, the boom will swing easily and potentially unpredictably depending on the wind and the movement of the boat. Use the starboard side boom line as described above to help control the boom.

Be careful to keep the boom from swinging into the port side mast support cable.

Once the boom is over the dinghy, use the “Dinghy” control to raise the dinghy towards the boom and off of the chocks. You don’t need to lift the dinghy very high, just enough for the dinghy to clear the chock and clear the boat deck rail. Swing the dinghy towards the boat’s port side. The boom does not have to swing very far towards the port.

When you have the boom and dinghy to the port side, use the “Boom” control to lower the boom towards the water. This will not only lower the dinghy towards the water but also move it further away from the boat. Guide the dinghy over the boat rail. When the boom is parallel to the water, use the “Dinghy” control to continue lowering the boat to the water.

Once the dinghy is in the water, guide it around to the swim step and secure the dinghy bowline to a rail at the stern. More cable will have to be let out as the boat is brought around. Once secured aft, unclip the winch snap link from the dinghy hoisting harness.

When the boom is unclipped from the boat be careful to prevent the boom from swinging wildly. Take in the excess cable and secure the snap link on the back near the winch for later use. Resecure the boom to prevent any accidents.

Coast Guard regulations state that any child 14 and under must wear a life jacket in a dinghy. It is a good idea for everyone to follow this rule. A child 12 and under must have a life jacket on at all times on any vessel.

Do not tow the dinghy behind the boat. When you are ready to leave your anchorage, restore the dinghy to the chocks on the boat deck. Raising the dinghy is the reverse of lowering. Reattach the winch snap link to lifting harness, guide the dinghy to the port side, hoist the dinghy with the winch, and reseat it in the dinghy chocks.

K

AYAKS

Two Necky kayaks are provided for your use while chartering Dragontail. Two break-apart paddles are stored in the cockpit locker, and four adjustable paddling PFD’s (one XS/S, two M/L, and one XL/XXL) are in the locker under the fly bridge settee. Especially if you have never kayaked before, read this section before using the kayaks.

Kayaks are a wonderful way to poke around protected anchorages, but the kayaks onboard are not suitable for exposed paddling where wind or waves are likely to come up. Please observe the following guidelines.

x

Never paddle alone x

Never paddle without a properly fitting personal floatation device (PFD) x

Never tow the kayak behind the boat (and especially not with a person in it) x

If a child is too small to fit the smallest PFD, he or she is too small to kayak

Getting Prepared

A properly fitted PFD should be snug so that if you go into the water, it doesn’t ride up on you. The straps underneath the armpit should be adjusted to give the proper fit. If you are having difficulty fitting yourself to a PFD, try the next smaller or next large size PFD depending on the fitting issue.

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If you are going to paddle with a spray skirt, put the skirt over your head before putting on the PFD.

Because the kayak cockpit is large, shorter paddlers may find it difficult to snap the forward edge of the spray skirt over the cockpit lip. If you aren’t paddling in the rain or where water may lap into the cockpit, you may want to skip a spray skirt

The paddles can be assembled as either feathered or unfeathered. If you aren’t familiar with the difference, assemble the paddle with the paddle faces parallel to each other.

Two lines, fore and aft, secure the kayaks to the rack. One end of each line is tied to the eyelet at the inside top of the kayak rack. It then passes through the top and bottom outside eyelets and finishes with a tie down at the inside bottom eyelet. The rack holds the bottom kayak pretty tightly without a line so when reracking the kayaks be more concerned about making sure the line is tight enough to hold the top kayak in place.

Launching the Kayaks

Putting the kayaks in the water takes two people. It works best to have the tallest person moving the kayak’s bow. Slide the top kayak off the rack and rest the bow on the stern rail. The stern handler holds the kayak while the bow handler steps onto the swim step. The bow handler moves to the far side of the swim step while the stern handler walks down the steps, through the bulwark door and onto the swim step. The kayak can be rested and pivoted on the stern railing during this process. Simply lay the kayak on the swim step at this point. If anything is going to be loaded through the kayak’s rear hatch, you should put it in now as it is virtually impossible to load once it is in the water.

Take advantage of the kayak being on the swim step to adjust the foot braces in the cockpit. If you forget, you can do so once you reach shore.

With the kayak on the swim step, the easiest way to put it into the water is to have the bow handler pivot the stern over the water and slide it in using the edge of the swim step as a leverage point. Before putting the kayak in the water, secure the kayak’s bow line to a rail on the boat.

The second kayak goes in identically as the first except that second kayak has to be slid out the side of the rack before moving it towards the swim step.

Getting into the Kayak

Before getting into the kayak, drop the swim ladder into the water from its stowage area under the swim step deck. The swim ladder keeps the kayak from tucking under the swim step when you getting into the kayak. Additionally, it allows you to get back onboard the boat quickly should you accidentally take a swim.

Pull the kayak parallel to the swim step and braced against the swim ladder. Put your paddle on the swim step within reach once you are in the kayak. Pass the kayak’s bow line through the handle on the hatch over the swim step stowage. This keeps the kayak from floating away but allows you to release the line once you are in the boat.

Sit on the edge of the swim step with your feet in the kayak. One hand can grip the swim ladder hatch handle and the other braces on the edge of the swim step. Virtually all of you weight should be on the boat at this point. Start shifting your seat towards the edge of the swim step while moving your feet into the kayak’s cockpit. Keep your weight over the swim step until you are ready to commit to entering the kayak which should be done as a continuous move. Keep yourself low and don’t try to stand up in the kayak first before sitting down.

While the above steps sound complicated, it actually is pretty intuitive and easily accomplished after a time or two.

Once seated, grab your paddle and release the bow line holding the kayak to the boat.

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Paddling the Kayak

Rather than explaining paddling techniques here, please refer to the kayak text in the salon bookshelf.

Getting out of the Kayak

Getting back aboard the boat from the kayak is pretty much the reverse of getting in the kayak. Paddle parallel to the swim step with body next to the swim ladder. Take the kayak bow line and pass it through the swim ladder hatch handle. Lay the paddle on the swim step. Grab the swim ladder hatch handle and pull yourself over the edge of the swim step. The idea is to transfer your weight as quickly as possible from the kayak to the swim step.

When going ashore and landing at a dock, the technique for exiting the kayak is very similar. Look for a dock that is no more than mid-chest high when you are sitting in your kayak. If the dock is too high, pulling yourself out of the kayak may be too difficult.

If you are beaching the kayak, the easiest way to exit is to run ashore bow first and simply step out of kayak by straddling it.

Stowing the Kayaks

As with reboarding the boat, stowing the kayak is pretty much the reverse of launching. Pull the kayak onto the swim step bow first using the edge of the swim step as a leverage point. The kayak’s stern should be next to the bulwark gate. Hoist the kayak up over the stern rail, pivot the stern around and walk it up the steps and restow it on the kayak rack.

If you are at anchor and will be using the kayaks again, you can leave the kayaks in the water with the bow lines secured to the boat’s railing. If it is windy and the kayaks bumping into the boat gets on your nerves, you may want to rerack one kayak and stow the other kayak on the swim step.

Before departing a location after having used the kayaks, make sure the kayaks have been secured on the rack and the swim ladder stowed.

C

RABBING

& F

ISHING

Always check the fishing and crabbing requirements before you leave on your cruise. You will need a license. Many areas are CLOSED to crabbing and fishing on certain months.

Crab AWAY from the boat! Lines can get wrapped around props. If you are fortunate enough to catch some “keeper” crabs, please do not cook them on the boat.

Fish-flavored cat food with the pop-up ringed lids work the best for a nice neat way to bait the cage. After an hour or so, retrieve the crab trap. Measure any crabs in the trap using the crab measuring gauge normally located in the cockpit bench locker. Keep the male crabs of proper size (usually 6 ¼ inches across the carapace). Boil crabs about 12 minutes to cook.

After using, wash equipment thoroughly with fresh water (available from the cockpit shower faucet).

S

AFETY

& B

ILGE

P

UMPS

SAFETY should be paramount in your daily cruising. A man overboard (MOB) drill should be discussed and perhaps even practiced with a life jacket. Review the Lifesling 2 manual (located in the Grey Book, backside of the table of contents. Remember your lifejackets and other safety equipment are stowed as follows:

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Dragontail x

3 adult, 1youth and 1 child in the top step leading to the aft cabin; x

3 adult and 1 youth in the locker below the flybridge helm x

Battery powered flashlights in the various drawers around the boat; x

Flares, wood plugs, hand held air horn and a first aid kit in the cabinet below lower helm seat; x

Lifesling 2: located in white bag on the boat deck, starboard side passageway to fly bridge; x

Fire extinguishers are mounted in the starboard side forward cabin, port side next to the door and starboard side (next to the water heater) as you enter the engine room.

Dragontail is equipped with automatic bilge pumps in all bulk headed areas of the hull (crash locker, forward, amidships, aft and lazarette). The bilge pump switches are located on the electrical panel and should normally be left in the AUTO position. You may occasionally hear the pump operate due to condensation and water from the shaft log accumulating in the bilge. There is an indicator panel above the lower helm showing whether the bilge pumps are operating.

An auxiliary hand operated bilge pump is located in the small cabinet below the hanging closet in the forward stateroom. This is used only in emergency situations.

Spare parts, fluids, tools and repair items are located in the cabinet near the water heater as you enter the engine room, aft stateroom bilge area and in various cubbyholes in the engine room.

S

OME

H

ELPFUL

O

PERATING

T

IPS

Saving on Battery Power

While the generator gives you virtually unlimited electrical power, its running can disturb the tranquility.

Being mindful of your power consumption can reduce your need to run the generator. If you are on shore power or only planning on anchoring one night, you shouldn’t have to do anything special. If you plan on being away from power for two or more nights, a little more care is necessary. Below are some tips for saving power.

x

Turn off the breakers for lights to the salon, forward and aft staterooms.

In daylight, it may be difficult to notice lights that are inadvertently left on. Turning off the breakers prevents the accidental switching on and forgetting of any of the cabin lights.

Remember to set the breakers on at night.

x

Disable the AC Inverter function on the Prosine Remote Console.

If you don’t have any AC electricity requirements (e.g., TV, microwave, AC outlets), by putting the middle rocker switch (Inverter function) in the “Disable” position, you’ll save about 1-1/2

Ah. When you need AC power, simply put the Inverter switch in the “Enable” position.

x

Monitor your power consumption using the Link 10 monitor.

Pressing the “SEL” button on the Link 10 battery monitor scrolls through four readings: house bank battery voltage (V); instantaneous battery drain (A); power consumed (Ah); and hours left in the battery bank at the current usage (t). Monitoring the instantaneous battery drain will tell you whether you’ve accidentally left on some electrical device that’s draining the battery banks.

A minus sign indicates a battery drain, a positive sign indicates battery banks are being charged.

Batteries bulk charge quickly up to about 80-90% of capacity. The final 10-20%, however, takes considerably longer. It requires overnight on shore power to fully charge depleted batteries. It is not practical to fully charge batteries via the main engine alternator or the generator as the charge rate is too low.

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Dragontail

Maximizing the Waste Holding Tank Capacity

Dragontail is equipped with a 60-gallon holding tank. Each flush of the Tecma toilet is about 0.6 gallon. In theory, the holding tank will handle 100 flushes. Since it is unlikely that the holding tank is ever completely empty, the maximum number of flushes is less than that. The human waste added with each flush further reduces that number.

A rule of thumb is that an individual averages five flushes per day. A party of four averaging twenty flushes per day totally fills the holding tank in four or five days. Some tips for reducing the waste added to the holding tank are: x Use shore facilities whenever possible.

x

Flush after every other use when its only urine.

So long as there is no standing liquid in the toilet bowl, there is no risk of it sloshing out.

x

If permitted, pump the holding tank overboard with the Macerator Pump.

In Canada, you may be able to pump the holding tank overboard (knowing whether this is legal is

YOUR responsibility). Use the “Macerator Pump” circuit breaker (DC breaker #18) to turn on the pump. The pump is a Jabsco centrifugal style pump and can burn out if run dry so be sure to monitor the tank level by either listening to the pump or using the TankWatch holding tank indicator.

The TankWatch holding tank indicator (DC breaker #26 – “Full Level Alarm”) has four indicators,

“Empty”, “Low”, “Mid” and “Full”. The Empty indicator is near the bottom of the tank and reflects about as low as can normally be pumped out. The Low indicator will come on after a relatively moderate amount of use (a rough estimate is about 8 gallons). The Mid indicator is above the halfway point (a rough estimate is about 40 gallons). When the Mid indicator comes on, start planning on pumping out in a day or so (the urgency depends on how quickly Mid was reached).

You should NEVER see the Full indicator! If you do, the tank is truly full. Do NOT flush the tank even one more time. Overfilling the tank results in raw liquid sewage working its way back down into the forward bilge and contaminating the Sanigard odor filter on the holding tank vent.

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Dragontail

D

RAGONTAIL

P

ERFORMANCE

D

ATA

RPM

1,000

1,200

1,400

1,600

1,800

2,000

2,200

2,400

Avg. Speed

5.5

6.2

6.8

7.3

8.0

8.4

8.7

9.1

Fuel Consumption

(gph)

1.7

2.1

2.7

3.5

4.6

5.9

7.4

9.4

Efficiency

(NM per Gal)

3.2

3.0

2.5

2.1

1.7

1.4

1.2

1.0

S/L

0.93

1.06

1.15

1.24

1.35

1.42

1.48

1.54

7

6

5

4

10

9

8

Speed & Fuel Consumption

Avg. Speed

Fuel Consumption

1,000 1,200 1,400 1,600 1,800 2,000 2,200 2,400

RPM

6

4

2

0

12

10

8

Speed data obtained on Lake Washington (fresh water) by making two runs in opposite directions at each RPM and averaging the final (stable) speed (GPS SOG). Sea conditions were calm, wind was light. Boat was loaded with ~85% fuel load, ~66% fresh water, two passengers and no provisions. RPM measured at lower helm station.

Fuel consumption is from Cummins Marine specification sheet for 6BT5.9M.

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Dragontail

T

HRU

-H

ULL

L

OCATIONS

One of the most important thru-hulls is the raw water seacock located in the engine room, port side near the front of engine.

DRAGONTAIL

Thru-hulls

Below water line

Thru-hull

Holding tank discharge

Thru-hull

Forward toilet discharge

Thru-hull

Raw water intake for generator and engine

Thru-hull

Aft toilet discharge

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Dragontail

DRAGONTAIL

Thru-hulls

Above water line

P1 galley sink deck fwd deck drain

P2 Aft sump

ER bilge

S1 Fwd bilge & manual bilge and fwd sump pump

S2 fwd deck

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P3 Mid and Aft deck drain

S4 Mid and aft deck drain

S3 Lazarette bilge, aft bilge and aft sump

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DC Circuit Breaker Panel Layout

Main 100 amp z Must be on for any DC loads

1Engine ignition

2DC Outlets

3Salon Lights z Turn on to operate engine z

Power for DC outlet on flybridge and in fwd cabin z Lights in Salon

4Fwd Lights er z Lights in forward Stateroom

5Master Lights

6ER/Laz Lights

7Navigation Lights

8Anchor Lights

9Spreader Lights

10Exterior Lights

11Courtesy Lights

12Fwd Toilet

13Master Toilet

14Wipers

15Windlass z

Lights in aft Stateroom z z

DC lights in eng. Rm & lazarette

Exterior lights for when running the boat at night z

Anchor light on top of mast z z z z

Flood lights on mast spreader bar. Addtl switch at upper helm

Lights next to step on walkway to bow area

Lights on steps lleading to fly bridge

Forward head macerating toilet z Aft head macerating toilet z z

Windshield wipers at lower helm

Anchor windlass (additional switch next to lower helm)

AC Circuit Breaker Panel Layout

1Battery Charger z

Starter-Thruster charger -

Shorepower r er

In

16Bow thruster

1

18Macerator Pump

19Fwd Sump Pump

2

21Fresh water Pump z

Pressurizes freshwater system

22Galley Blower z

Additional switch on column between sink & stove

2 z

Turn on only to pump holding tank overboard z

Pumps gray water from Fwd head sump overboard

24Toilet Blower

25Horn

26Full Level Alarm z

Additional switch in each head z

Additional switch at helm stations z

Fuel/water tank sensor and

Holding tank sensor

2 z

Bow thruster (kick switch also in forward stateroom)

28GPS

29Stereo z

Furuno GPS and Si-Tex AIS

Receiver z

Powers Pioneer stereo/DVD player above chart table

3

31Electronics z

Radio, radar, chart plotter, autopilot, search light

1

1

1

9Microwave

1 utlet er Outlet z Microwave in galley

1

1

8ER Lights z

Engine room fluorescent lights

16Spare

Green = usually on Red = usually off

Yellow = electronics or use cautiously

Blue = water pressure or pumps

No dot = irregular use/use with discretion.

upper helm eroom

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