Miata MP62 PowerCard PowerJet

Miata MP62 PowerCard PowerJet
Miata MP62 PowerCard PowerJet
Installation Instructions
FOR 1994-97 Miata w/Moss MP62 S/C or custom applications
Part # 999-195
440 Rutherford St. Goleta, CA 93117
1-800-642-8295 • FAX 805-692-2525 • www.mossmotors.com • www.mossmiata.com
PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION SHEET
THOROUGHLY BEFORE BEGINNING.
WARNING: Use of 91 or higher octane (US rating RON + MON / 2) gasoline is required.
Follow the instructions STEP-BY-STEP, and your
installation will be trouble free. If in doubt, please call
Moss Technical Support at (888) 888-4079. Be sure to
read all notes and warnings before proceeding with each
step.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
• 14mm socket and ratchet
• pair of pliers
• hose cutter
• medium flat-head screwdriver
• shop towels or several shop rags
• wire crimper/stripper
• teflon tape
IMPORTANT NOTE #1: This kit was created for 94-97
Mazda Miatas with Moss’ MP62 kit, a TrackDog Racing
intercooler and a 63.5mm (2.50”) supercharger pulley.
The PowerJet card is adjustable, but has been pretuned for use on Moss’ (999-805) 94-97 non-CARB
certified MP62 kit with these components. You will
still want to do a final tune with the car on a dyno to
assure that you have proper air/fuel and no detonation
even under heavy loading and heatsoaked.
Note: We have provided spade connectors and ttaps
for installation, but we recommend soldering all wire
connections. You may want to install one set of male/
female spade connectors in the white/ red and red/blue
wires for the 5th injector so that the PowerJet can be
removed in the future without cutting if necessary.
IMPORTANT NOTE #2: The PowerCard PowerJet kit
may also work on 99-00 and 01-05 Miatas, work with
different intercoolers and work with different pulleys,
but each application will require tuning the car on a
dyno for your car’s specific configuration. Use of a
wideband O2 sensor is recommended.
INSTALLATION:
1. Disconnect the vehicle battery.
2. Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the four
bolts securing the passenger seat. Then remove the
seat from the car. Remove the two push-in fasteners
securing the carpet behind the seat. Fold the carpet
toward the drivers side of the car to expose the
Electronic Control Unit (ECU). You may have to peel
back the wiring harness.
IMPORTANT NOTE #3: The kit requires drilling a
37/64” hole and tapping it to 5/8- 18 threads. This drill
size is larger than your average hand drill and you
may need a drill press or machine shop to make the
hole. Alternatively, you may be able to find a metal
bung for an oxygen sensor that has 5/8-18 threads
and have that welded into the intercooler tubing just
before the dummy throttle body. It will still need to
seal against the included O-ring or a copper washer.
DO NOT MOUNT THE POWERJET INJECTOR BEFORE
THE INTERCOOLER.
NOTE: ALTHOUGH NOT SEEN IN THE FIRST
PICTURE, YOUR CAR SHOULD ALREADY
HAVE A POWERCARD AND A TIMINGCARD
CONNECTED TO THE ECU TO CONTROL THE
SUPERCHARGER. THEY WILL MOST LIKELY
BE VERY NEAR THE FACTORY MAZDA ECU AS
SHOWN IN PICTURE TWO AND THREE BELOW.
IMPORTANT NOTE #4: This kit is NOT California Air
Resources Board (CARB) certified for use on pollution
controlled vehicles in California.
Part # 999-195
-1-
Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
solid red PowerCard Pro wire (This wire connects
the already installed PowerCard Pro to 12V+ switched
power). Attach a male spade connector to the solid
red wire of the PowerJet card. Then connect the
male spade connector of the Powerjet card’s solid
red wire to the t-tap on the PowerCard Pro’s solid red
wire. This will provide 12V+ switched power to the
PowerJet card.
5. Locate the solid black wire leading out of the already
installed PowerCard Pro. It will be at the far end of
the PowerCard Pro next to the white/ yellow (white
with yellow stripe) wire. Use the pair of pliers to
attach a red t-tap from the PowerJet kit to the solid
black PowerCard Pro wire (This wire connects
the already installed PowerCard Pro to ground
at the ECU). Attach a male spade connector to the
solid black wire of the PowerJet card. Then connect
the male spade connector of the Powerjet card’s solid
black wire to the t-tap on the PowerCard Pro’s solid
black wire. This will provide ground to the PowerJet
card.
3. Locate the PowerCard PowerJet electronic fuel
management card included in the kit. Decide where
you would like to mount the PowerJet card in the car.
These installation instructions will show how to mount
the PowerJet card by the 94-97 Miata’s ECU.
4. Locate the solid red wire leading out of the already
installed PowerCard Pro. It will be between the
green/grey (green with grey stripe) wire and the
boost hose/nipple. It will be on the same side of the
PowerCard Pro as the white/yellow wire. It will NOT
be next to the white/green wire. Use the pair of
pliers to attach a red t-tap from the PowerJet kit to the
Part # 999-195
-2-
Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
6. The PowerJet card’s input wire will need an injector
signal from the ECU that has not been modified by
the PowerCard Pro. This will be provided by running
the signal from the ECU’s cylinder #1 output to the
cylinder #1 input PowerJet card, running cylinder #1
output of the PowerJet card to factory Injector #1 and
then t-tapping the original PowerCard Pro’s output
wire into the output wire of the PowerJet card.
them with electrical tape, however, we have included
two male and two female spade connectors in the kit
for this purpose.
11. With the injector connector in the engine
compartment, run the two extended wires through the
grommet in the firewall as shown.
7. Begin by disconnecting the male spade of the white/
yellow (white with yellow stripe) wire coming out of the
already installed PowerCard Pro from the t-tap on
the ECU’s solid yellow cylinder #1 wire.
8. Now cut the harness wire going from the ECU to
factory injector #1. This will electrically separate
what happens at the ECU from what happens at
the injector. Use provided male and female spade
connectors to connect the ECU side of this cut
harness wire to the solid yellow (cylinder #1 input)
wire of the PowerJet card. Use an additional set
of male and female spade connectors to connect
the injector side of the cut wire to the white/yellow
(cylinder #1 output) wire of the PowerJet card.
NOTE: You will want to make sure that there is a
male spade on one side of the original ECU to
injector #1 harness wire and a female spade on the
other side of the original harness wire, so that the
PowerJet card can be bypassed if necessary just by
reconnecting the ECU side of the cut harness wire to
the injector side of the cut harness wire with pliers.
9. Use the pair of pliers to attach a red t-tap from the
PowerJet kit to the white/yellow (cylinder #1 output)
wire of the PowerJet card (This wire now connects
the PowerJet (not the PowerCard Pro) card to the
solid yellow cylinder #1 wire of the ECU harness,
which runs from the ECU to the Cylinder #1 fuel
injector).
12. Connect the far end of the two wires to the final five
inches of wire at the PowerJet card. Use the two
included male and female spade connectors so that
the wires can be disconnected if the PowerJet card
ever needs to be removed from the vehicle. The wires
can then be run under the door sill plate for a clean
installation.
Connect the white/yellow (cylinder #1 output) wire of
the PowerCard Pro to the t-tap just installed on the
white/yellow (cylinder #1 output) wire of the PowerJet
card that leads to the factory #1 injector.
13. Use the included velcro sticky pad to mount the
PowerJet card on or near the factory ECU.
10. Locate the injector connector on the PowerJet card
included in the kit. There will be a red/blue (red with
blue stripe) and a white/red (white with red stripe)
wire encased in a solid black covering leading to this
connector. Cut the two wires and their casing about
five inches from the PowerJet card.
Use the 48 inch lengths of white/red (white with red
stripe) and red/black (red with black stripe) included
in the kit to extend the two injector connector wires
that are coming out of the injector connector. Do not
connect them back to the PowerJet card at this time,
as they will need to be run through the firewall first.
We suggest soldering the wires and then covering
Part # 999-195
-3-
Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
14. Use the included vacuum “tee” (T) and black plastic
vacuum hose to connect the silicone hose exiting
the PowerJet card into the vacuum lines going to the
already installed PowerCard Pro and TimingCard. If
you have a custom application, there is extra hose
included in the kit. You will want to use a hose cutter
on the vacuum line to make sure that the end is cut
cleanly such that it will provide a tight seal for the
vacuum/boost signal.
15. Remove the dummy throttle body from the vehicle. It
is an aluminum casting located between the intake
manifold and the intercooler outlet pipe. Drill a 37/64”
hole in the side of the dummy throttle body and then
tap it using a 5/8-18 threaded tap. After thoroughly
washing and cleaning the dummy throttle body of any
aluminum shavings, dirt or dust, remount the dummy
throttle body to the intake manifold.
18. Slide the factory clamp on the factory fuel hose that
runs to the fuel rail up the hose and wriggle the fuel
line off of the hard line from the fuel pump.
16. Locate the included threaded 5th injector from the
PowerJet kit. Slide the O-ring over the threaded end
of the 5th injector. Then thread the 5th injector into the
5/8-18 hole that was drilled into the dummy throttle
body. Tighten the injector until it is airtight and snug.
Do not overtighten. Now connect the 5th injector
electrical connector from the PowerJet card to the 5th
injector.
NOTE: This line will be under pressure, so have rags
under the connection and wear safety goggles and/or
glasses to block any fuel spray from getting into your
eyes.
19. Use the included brass hose barb “tee”, two included
small hose clamps, the factory hose barb that was slid
up the line in the previous step and a short section of
included high-pressure fuel hose to “T” into the factory
fuel hose that runs to the factory fuel rail as shown. It
must be the supply side because the return side is not
under pressure.
17. Apply teflon tape to the 5/16” hose barb included in
the kit. Thread the hose barb into the included fuel
injector “hat” and tighten. Use the hose cutters to
cut about 12 inches of provided high-pressure 5/16”
fuel hose from the hose included in the kit. Slide an
included small hose clamp over the fuel hose. Then
push the hose barb into the the fuel hose and tighten
the small hose clamp. Then mount the fuel injector
“hat” onto the fuel injector and insert the retaining clip
from the kit.
Part # 999-195
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Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
24. At Key ON, the PowerJet card should show alternately
flashing green and red LEDs. If the PowerJet card
doesn’t power up after 4 seconds double check your
power and ground. One or both may be hooked up
incorrectly. Make certain that the spade connectors
are inserted properly into the square slot of the t-tap,
and not off to the side. If you can see the silver spade
connector through the translucent insulation, then
you need to disconnect and properly reconnect this
connection.
25. Start the engine but DO NOT drive off yet! You will
first verify that the correct settings are in the PowerJet
card, learn what each one does and then you will
be making adjustments to the already installed
PowerCard and the TimingCard!
20. Slide another included small hose clamp over the
high pressure fuel hose running to the 5th injector.
Then connect this line to the brass hose barb tee and
tighten the small hose clamp.
26. Once the engine has started, there should be a
steady GREEN LED at position 1 (it may occasionally
flash on/off). Under boost, there will also be a steady
BLUE LED at position 8. Also, the LEDs at positions
1-8 will light up progressively representing pressure
from 0.5psi to 10psi. If you have a flashing green
and flashing red together with the engine running,
the yellow Cylinder 1 injector lead wire may not be
connected properly to the ECU. Trace the problematic
lead to the injector wire and carefully inspect its
connection.
21. Cover the two wires running from the fuel injector
to the firewall with included split loom plastic wire
protection. Then cover the section between the
firewall and the ECU.
27. Try quickly blipping the throttle to see if the BLUE
LED lights up on the PowerJet card. You may find
that it doesn’t, as the car will have lots of power but
isn’t under load. It would be dangerous to look away
to observe the PowerJet card while driving, so your
next step is to head to a dyno to tune the PowerJet
card. Do your best to stay out of boost while heading
to the dyno. Again, the card is preset with a tune
that should be close on a 94-97 Miata running 91
US octane gasoline (RON + MON / 2) with a Moss
MP62, TrackDog racing intercooler and 63.5mm
(2.50”) pulley, but it is best to tune the card to your
specific car and components, especially if you have
the PowerJet installed on a different year of Miata, are
running a different pulley or intercooler, have a highflow (or no) catalytic converter or are running a bigger
non-factory Mazda OEM throttle body.
22. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key to ON, allowing
the fuel pressure to build. Look over all the hose
connections and the fuel hat connection to make
sure that there are absolutely no leaks. Observe
the connections for a few minutes while feeling
underneath the fuel lines and at each connection
point just in case there is a non-obvious slow leak.
Adjust how the fuel hat sits or retighten clamps and
connection points as necessary.
PowerJet Modes
28. The PowerJet card has four adjustments. They all
are adjusted up and down in a similar fashion to the
PowerCard and TimingCard. If you wish to check
the settings, do so as follows. Push the Mode button
once. A green LED will start slowly flashing in the
seventh LED position. This represents a setting of “7.0
lights”. This adjustment mode controls how much fuel
is added at low boost levels (higher settings add more
fuel). Push the Mode button a second time and a red
LED will flash at the 4th and 5th LED positions. This
represents a setting of “4.5 lights” (having two lights lit
23. Once you have verified that all connection points are
not leaking, start the vehicle. There may be a little
stumbling while air bleeds out of the fuel line, but
the idle should clear up quickly. Observe that the
PowerCard Pro & TimingCard light up and operate as
before (see your installation instructions for specifics
on what your kit’s PowerCard and TimingCard lights
should be doing if necessary).
Part # 999-195
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Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
together signifies being halfway between two settings,
like 6.5 lights for instance would have both the sixth
and seventh LEDs lit). This adjustment mode controls
how much fuel is added at higher boost levels. Push
the Mode button again and this time a green LED
will be flashing quickly at the first LED position and
a blue LED will flash at the eighth LED position.
This represents a setting of “0.0 lights”. (At the Zero
setting, the LED flashes faster than at the One setting
even though they share the same LED position on the
card.) This mode adjusts the lowest pressure (1-3psi)
that will result in the PowerJet card adding fuel. Push
the Mode button again and this time there will be red
LEDs lit at the sixth and seventh LED positions as
well as a blue LED lit at the eighth LED position. This
represents a setting of “6.5 lights”. This mode adjusts
at what pressure (10-20psi) the PowerJet card will
add its maximum amount of added fuel. One more
press of the Mode button and the sequence starts
over. While in any of the adjustment modes, the +
and - buttons move the LED’s up and down the scale.
When untouched for a few seconds, the PowerCard
automatically exits its adjustment mode.
used immediately without waiting for the adjustment
mode to reset, but if you turn the power off before the
adjustment mode has reset, your setting changes may
not be saved.
Adjustments to the TimingCard
30. Adjustments to the already installed TimingCard
are made in a similar fashion to those made to the
PowerCard Pro. With the Key ON (the engine can be
running if you like), press the MODE button once to
enter the green adjustment mode. You should see
a single green LED flashing quickly and no other
lights (blue, red or otherwise) on the TimingCard.
This represents a settings of “0.0 lights”. If you hit
the button and skip beyond to the yellow or other
adjustment modes, simply hit the button again until
you return to the green adjustment mode.
The green zone corresponds to boost retard at RPMs
of 0 to 2500rpm. Hit the “+” PLUS button and the
same LED will flash slowly. Hit it again and the light
will begin to move up the scale, representing more
and more timing retard (when there is boost). Now hit
the “-” MINUS button until the green light goes back
to the first position and is flashing slowly, then once
again until it is flashing quickly, which represents no
timing retard.
Adjustments to PowerCard
29. Adding boost to the Moss MP62 kit also increases
how much pulsewidth the already installed PowerCard
Pro adds to the factory fuel injectors. Since the
settings are adjustable and could currently be set to
anything, we will make sure that the PowerCard Pro
has appropriate settings that match what the PowerJet
card was pretuned for.
Press the MODE button again to move to the yellow
adjustment mode. The yellow zone corresponds to
boost retard at RPMs of 2500 to 5000rpm. The display
should show the original preset setting of one flashing
yellow LED only at position four. This represents
about 7 degrees of timing retard under boost. Press
the “+” PLUS button until there are flashing yellow
LEDs at both the fourth and fifth LED positions, for
a setting of “4.5 lights” (about 8 degrees). If you end
up moving the LED setting too far, press the + or buttons until it does.
With the Key ON (the engine can be running if you
like), push the Mode button on the originally installed
PowerCard Pro four times. There should be a
flashing green LED at the number five location and a
flashing blue LED at the number eight position. If not,
press the + or - buttons to move the flashing green
LED to the number five position. This mode adjusts
how much fuel is added by the main injectors at high
boost levels. Press the Mode button again and the
yellow and blue LED’s will start flashing. Press the
+ or - buttons to move the flashing yellow LED to
the seventh LED position. This mode adjusts how
much fuel is added when the throttle is opened quickly
(“upon the hit of the gas”) and works much like an
accelerator pump on a carburetor. Scan through the
other adjustment modes to make sure that all other
adjustment modes should be set to “0.0 lights”, which
is accomplished by setting the slowly flashing LED
at the 1st LED position and then pressing “-” once
more until the LED now flashes quickly instead
of slowly, signifying the “0.0 lights” zero LED
position.
Allow the PowerCard Pro a few seconds to save the
settings and reset from adjustment mode. The settings
can be changed while driving the car and will be
Part # 999-195
Press the MODE button again to move to the “RED”
adjustment mode. The RED zone corresponds to
boost retard at RPMs above 5000rpm. The display
should the original preset setting of one flashing
yellow LED only at position five. This represents
about 8 degrees of timing retard under boost. If your
TimingCard does not show one flashing yellow LED
only at position five, press + or - until it does.
Finally, press the MODE button again and you should
see a green LED flashing AND a blue LED flashing.
This “GREEN WITH FLASHING BLUE” mode
represents timing being retarded in relation to boost.
The display should show the original preset setting of
a quickly flashing green LED only at position one.
This represents 0 degrees of timing retard per psi
of boost. If it shows a slowly flashing Green LED at
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Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
position one or a Green LED at any other position, hit
the “-” button until the Green LED at position one
flashes quickly.
Monitor the wideband as you accelerate at 2 to 3psi
from from 3500rpm to 5000rpm in third and fourth
gears and adjust the green “low boost fuel per psi”
setting on the PowerJet card. Aim for the mid-12:1
range. This will get your highway passing and light hill
air/fuel squared away. Be ready to lift the throttle at
any sign of detonation or lean air/fuel.
Allow the TimingCard a few seconds to save the
settings and reset from adjustment mode. The settings
can be changed while driving the car and will be
used immediately without waiting for the adjustment
mode to reset, but if you turn the power off before the
adjustment mode has reset, your setting changes may
not be saved.
Next, monitor the wideband as you accelerate at 6
to 8psi from from 3500rpm to 5000rpm in third and
fourth gears and adjust the red “high boost fuel per
psi” setting on the PowerJet card. Aim for the low 12s.
This will confirm that your low- and mid-rpm heavy
throttle air/fuel is in the ballpark before going to wide
open throttle at high rpm.
PowerJet Tuning - Settings and Strategy
31. The PowerJet kit comes already preset with
conservative settings for a Miata with the components
listed on the front page. However, every car is
different. If you have a different exhaust, catalytic
converter, header or intake on your car, you may need
to add fuel or change the timing retard settings. Listen
for “pinging” or detonation when using heavy throttle
until you have got your custom application tuned.
Note: It’s better to leave a little timing on the table
just in case you are in hot weather going up a hill in
traffic one day. Because of the nature of adding fuel
with a single 5th injector, there will be slightly different
amounts of fuel going into each different cylinder from
the single injector. So, to be safe, we then need to
overfuel slightly, so that the cylinder that gets the least
amount of fuel from the 5th injector (usually cylinder
#1) still is always at a safe air/fuel ratio no matter what
the condition. This results in slightly less potential
power, but keeps things safe in the event of heat
soak, high temperatures and repeated heavy use.
Next, monitor the wideband as you accelerate at wide
open throttle from from 2200rpm to redline in third
gear (and fourth gear on a dyno) gear and adjust the
red “high boost fuel per psi” setting on the PowerJet
card. Aim for high 11s (measured pre-catalytic
converter) at 5000-7000rpm.
Now go back and recheck light throttle highway
passing and mid-throttle mid-range air/fuel. If you are
slightly richer than suggested that is okay. Low 11s
at light throttle is probably too much and for custom
applications like the later 01-05 Miatas, as they tend
to prefer to run leaner (12s) with more timing retard
at low rpm (<3000rpm) in medium boost rather than
overly rich with less timing retard.
Finally, although the “hit of the gas” accelerator pump
setting is adjustable on the PowerCard Pro, you will
find that too much of it can have a negative affect on
throttle tip-in/tip-out driveability. Optimally, any rise in
air/fuel at heavy throttle tip-ins will be minimized, while
avoiding bogging or black smoke or popping sounds
in the exhaust from unburned fuel (especially with free
flow catalytic converters & mufflers).
In the Miata’s case, although one could run an
intercooled Miata at 11.8-12:1 air/fuel, we aim for
about 11.0-11.2:1, measured with a wide- band O2
sensor BEFORE the catalytic converter. That would
measure out to 11.5 to 11.7:1 if measured after the
catalytic converter.
ECU Carpet and Seat Reinstallation
Also, although an intercooler should allow you to
run less timing at the same boost level, our pretune
is setup for a car running higher than stock boost
levels of ~10psi. If you are using 93 or 94 US octane
(RON + MON / 2), you may find that you can use
light settings closer to two lights of yellow and red
instead of four. However, each car will be different
and we suggest getting the fueling right BEFORE
attempting to reduce timing retard.
32. Recover the ECU location with the carpet and secure
with the push in fasteners. Use a 14mm socket and
ratchet to reinstall the passenger seat.
Idle Adjustment
33. The installation of the intercooler and its piping
may have an affect on idle droop. If your idle droop
is excessive, the idle airscrew can be adjusted to
compensate.
For tuning strategy, we suggest installing a wideband
oxygen sensor and a boost gage. IF YOU EVER
HEAR DETONATION, STOP IMMEDIATELY AND
PUT MORE TIMING RETARD INTO THE TIMING
CARD (+) IN THE RPM ZONE THAT YOU HEAR
DETONATION IN. YOU CAN ALWAYS TAKE IT
BACK OUT LATER ONCE THE AIR/FUEL IS RIGHT.
Part # 999-195
Using the idle airscrew on your throttle body (now on
the back of the supercharger), adjust your idle speed
to 950 rpm after the engine is warm. This is done
by backing the adjustment screw out a half turn at
a time until the correct speed is achieved (counterclockwise rotation increases idle speed). Next, turn
your headlights on BRIGHT and put your heater fan
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Revised 2/12
Installation Instructions
on HIGH. Leave the air conditioning off. Rev the
engine briskly in neutral to at least 2500 rpm and
release. Notice if the idle stops at 900rpm. If it dips
below this level and feels like it will stall, then recovers
to 950 rpm, open the idle airscrew (counter-clockwise
rotation) one tenth of a turn at a time until most of this
“droop” disappears. A slight droop of 100 rpm or so is
acceptable and normal. More than that may create a
stalling problem during driving. Turn off the lights and
heater fan and double-check that your idle speed is
950 rpm.
each of the ribs on the inside run of the belt. Replace
your belt when you can count six cracks within one
inch of length (six cracks total from all ribs combined).
37. Please see MossMiata.com for all of your Miata
performance and maintenance needs!
Final Suggestions
34. If you are unsure of the tune that you have set or
if you make a change to the hardware components
on your car, we suggest having the car retuned on
a dyno. Seemingly small changes like a high-flow
catalytic converter can result in large changes to
air/fuel because they affect the amount of boost
measured by the PowerCard and PowerJet card, thus
affecting the fuel added versus actual airflow. If you
have a wideband oxygen sensor installed, you may
be able to accomplish these adjustments yourself, but
be mindful of the slight cylinder to cylinder variation
of adding fuel with a 5th injector that was mentioned
earlier in the instructions and aim for slightly richer
than usual intercooled supercharger air/fuel ratios.
35. Start your engine as you would a standard Miata.
Remember to bring the engine up to operating
temperature before running it hard. Full boost on a
cold engine will greatly increase your engine wear.
Use of premium gasoline is a must at these elevated
boost levels. Also, be aware that a tune that works
well with “summer” gasoline may need adjustment
to work well with “winter” gasoline, as changes to
oxygenated fuels can affect the tune. Also, heatsoak
from desert climates and track driving require keeping
an ear out for detonation and making appropriate
adjustments if the car moves or takes a trip
somewhere significantly different than the area/altitude
where it was tuned.
Belt Tension
36. The smaller pulley on your supercharger will require
you to pay attention to the belt tension more often.
If there is slip, your boost output will be low and the
belt may squeal. If you have a tension gauge for
a serpentine belt, the tension is to be 90 pounds.
Without a gauge, look for less than 1/2” deflection
on the long run of the belt. If you see a large
accumulation of belt dust on your supercharger, it is
an indication that your belt is slipping. A slight amount
of belt dust is normal. CHECKING YOUR BELT FOR
WEAR: As the belt wears, small cracks will form in
Part # 999-195
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Revised 2/12
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