XXX-T CR - Robitronic
INTRO
q STEP I-01
Intro to the XXX-T CR Manual
Welcome Team Losi XXX-T CR Owner!
Thank you for selecting the XXX-T CR as your new racing truck. The XXX-T CR has already distinguished itself as a top caliber racing
chassis and as you will see, we have made every effort to produce a kit that is not only the most competitive but also easy to build and maintain. The simple bag-by-bag assembly sequence and easily followed instructions and drawings combined with Team Losi’s world famous
quality fitting parts will make building the XXX-T CR a most enjoyable project.
Before you open the first bag, or start assembly, please take a moment to read through the following instructions. This will familiarize
you with the various parts, assembly tips, and descriptions as well as the tools needed. Taking an extra moment before starting can save a
good deal of time and assure proper assembly.
Good luck and good racing,
Team Losi Racing XXX-CR COMPLETED KIT SPECIFICATIONS
Overall Chassis Length: 16.4in (416mm)
Overall Length w/Tires: 17in (431mm)
Wheelbase: 11.25in (286mm)
*Overall Height: 5.5in (139mm)
*Front Track Width: 12.725in (323mm)
*Rear Track Width: 12.725in (323mm)
Note: Final kit weight will vary depending on accessories used.
*All measurements taken at ride height (23mm).
Table 1: XXX-T CR Completed Kit Specifications.
Kit/Manual Organization:
The molded parts in Team Losi Racing kits are manufactured to
demanding tolerances. When screws are tightened to the point of being snug, the parts are held firmly in place. For this reason, it is very
important that screws not be overtightened in any of the plastic
parts.
In some steps there will be a filled black circle with a white
number. These indicate the specific order by which assembly must
occur. In cases where steps are repeated (front/rear or left/right) these
numbers may be omitted. Please note that these numbers will not call
out every sub-step required for the step’s assembly procedures, they
will only highlight the critical order required for assembly.
In each step, there are specific “Detail Icons” (shaped like a stop
sign) that call out critical precautions or assembly tips for the process. There is a reference key that describes the meaning of each of
the icons located on the fold-out Hardware Identification Guide at
the back of this manual.
To ensure that parts are not lost during construction, it is recommended that you work over a towel or mat to prevent parts from
rolling away.
The kit is composed of different bags marked A through F. Each
bag contains all of the parts necessary to complete a particular section of the kit. Some of these bags have sub-assembly bags within
them. It is essential that you open only one bag at a time and follow
the correct assembly sequence, otherwise you may face difficulties in
finding the correct part. It is helpful to read through the instructions
for an entire bag prior to beginning assembly. Next to each of the step
numbers is a check box. At the completion of each step, place a check
in this box so that if you must stop and come back to the assembly,
you will be able to pick up where you left off.
For your convenience, an actual-size Hardware Identification
Guide is included as a fold-out page at the back of this manual. Hardware that is not easily differentiable in each step is called out with
an icon which contains a small
picture of the part genre (referenced on the Hardware Identification Guide), the quantity of
that part required for what is
shown in the step, and the size
or name of that part. To check a part, hold it against the silhouette
until the correct part is identified. Associated with each of these parts,
in the Hardware Identification Guide, is a LOSA-Number which is
used when ordering replacement parts for your XXX-T CR. In some
cases, extra hardware has been supplied for parts that may be easy to
lose.
Components used in each step are identified by their relative
LOSA-Number and the component’s name. With the exception of
a few parts, these are not referenced in the Hardware Identification
Guide.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTES:
1. Select an area for assembly that is away from the reach of small
children. Some parts in this kit are small and can be swallowed
by children, causing choking and possible internal injury;
PLEASE USE CAUTION!
2. The shock fluid and greases supplied should be kept out of children’s reach. They are not intended for human consumption!
3. Exercise care when using any hand tools, sharp instruments, or
power tools during construction.
4. Carefully read all manufacturer’s warnings and cautions for any
chemicals, glues, or paints that may be used for assembly and
INTRO
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR ASSEMBLY
Team Losi has supplied all necessary Allen wrenches and a special wrench that is needed for assembly and adjustments. The following common tools will also be required: Needle-nose pliers, regular pliers, hobby knife, scissors or other body cutting/trimming tools, and a soldering
iron may be necessary for radio installation. 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, and 11/32” nut drivers are optional.
RADIO/ELECTRONICS
A suggested radio layout is provided in this manual. Your high performance R/C center should be consulted regarding specific questions
pertaining to radio/electrical equipment.
HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION
When in question, use the Hardware Identification Guide at the back of this manual.
• For screws, the prefix number designates the thread size and number of threads per inch (i.e., 4-40 is a #4 size thread with 40 threads per
inch). The second number, or fraction, designates the length of the screw. For cap head and button head screws, this number refers to the
length of the threaded portion of the screw. For flat head and set screws, this number refers to the overall length of the screw.
• Bearings and bushings are referenced by the inside diameter (I.D.) x outside diameter (O.D.).
• Shafts and pins are designated by type (Roll, Solid) and referenced by diameter x length.
• Washers, Spacers and Shims are described by inside diameter or the screw size that will pass through the inside diameter x the thickness
or by their designated application (i.e., Ball Stud washer is primarily used under a Ball Stud).
• Retaining Clips are sized by the shaft diameter that they attach to or by type (Body). The Hardware Icon associated with E/C-Clips only
designates the part genre of clips, not the actual part.
• Nuts come in four types, Non-Flanged, Flanged (F), Plain, and Locking (L) (designated on the Hardware Icons). The prefix number designates the thread size and number of threads per inch. The second number, or fraction, designates the size of the hex. For example, L 4-40
x 1/4” designates a Lock nut that will thread onto a 4-40 screw using a 1/4” nut driver.
• Ball studs are described by the length of the neck between the base and the bottom of the ball (i.e., standard, short) and the length of the
threaded portion.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTIONS
TABLES
1.INTRODUCTION................................................... i Table 1: XXX-T CR Completed Kit Specifications...... i
Kit/Manual Organization.................................... i
Important Safety Notes....................................... i
Tools Required for Assembly............................. ii
Radio/Electronics............................................... ii
Hardware Identification..................................... ii
2.Bag A: Front Clip................................................. 1-3
3.Bag B: Chassis...................................................... 4-5
4.Bag C: Rear Clip.................................................. 6-8
5.Bag D: Transmission.......................................... 9-11
6.Bag E: Shocks.................................................. 12-13
7.Bag F: Final Chassis/Electronics...................... 14-18
8.Checklist Before Your First Run.........................19
9.Setup Guide..................................................... 20-23
10.Blank XXX-T CR Setup Sheet..............................24
11. Hardware Identification Guide............................25
12.Filled-out XXX-T CR Kit Setup Sheet.................26
Table 2: Servo Installation............................................4
Table 3: Motor Gearing...............................................20
Team Losi is continually changing and improving designs; therefore, the actual part may appear slightly different than the illustrated part. Illustrations of parts and assemblies
may be slightly distorted to enhance pertinent details.
ii
BAG A
q STEP A-01
q STEP A-02
Steering Assembly
Tighten the 6-40 x 5/16” Nut all the way
down and then loosen it 2 full turns.
Kickplate Assembly
A6206
A1610
A6081
x2
x1
SOLID
4-40 x 3/8”
L 6-40 x 5/16”
x1
3/32” x .930”
A1620
Spring Cap
A6306
A1610
L 4-40 x 3/16”
A4159
SteeringBrace
Servo Saver Spring
x5
A6912
A1620
x4
Idler Arm
3/32” x 3/16”
A1620
Servo Saver Top
A6215
x4
A1620
Ball Stud
Servo Saver Bottom
A1610
A6026
A4159
KickPlate
Steering Post
x2
Std. 1/4”
A6025
x3
Std. .215”
A1620
Steering Draglink
q STEP A-03
Front Suspension Assembly
A6100
A9956
Hinge Pin Brace
A4129
FrontPivot
A6088
SOLID
x6
1/8” E-Clip
x1
1/8” x 1.246”
A2216
x1
A1126
SpindleCarrier,Left
A6089
SOLID
x1
1/8” x .050”
A6306
A1117
FrontArm
x1
1/8” x 1.420”
L 4-40 x 3/16”
A6228
A1126
x1
Spindle,Left
5-40” x 1/8”
A1024
FrontAxle
A6086
SOLID
A6027
x1
x2
1/8” x .960”
Std. 3/8”
A6205
x3
Ball Stud
L
BAG A
q STEP A-04
Front Bulkhead Assembly
A6306
A6300
x2
x2
L 4-40 x 3/16”
L 4-40 x 1/4”
A4123
Body Mount
A6220
A1109
ShockTower,Front
x2
4-40” x 1/2”
A6027
x2
Std. 3/8”
A6216
A6206
A6215
x4
x4
4-40” x 3/8”
Ball Stud
A4159
FrontBulkhead
q STEP A-05
Front Clip Assembly
A6210
x1
4-40” x 3/8”
A4118
Front Bumper
A6233
x2
4-40” x 5/8”
A6226
x2
4-40” x 7/8”
x2
4-40” x 7/8”
BAG A
q STEP A-06
Tierod Assembly and Installation
• Use the Team Losi flat wrench to hold the Turnbuckle while installing the Ball Cups.
• Be sure to install the assembled Tierod onto the truck with the groove (next to the center square section) on the driver’s left side for
easier adjustment later.
Front Camber Tierod
3.666in
93.11mm
x2
Steering Tierod
A6003
Foam Thing
3.688in
93.67mm
q STEP A-07
A6016
Ball Cup
Completed Front Clip Assembly
L
BAG B
q STEP B-01
Servo Assembly
Servo Manufacturer, Make/Model
Mount Servo
Position Horn
JR
All (DZ9000T/S DOES NOT FIT)
1
Airtronics
94357Z, 94358Z, 94649Z, 94360Z,
94452Z, 94758Z, 94737Z, 94738Z
3
94102Z, 94112Z
1
Hitec
All
1
24T
Futaba
All (S9102 DOES NOT FIT)
2
25T
KO
PDS-2123, 2344, 2363, 2365, 2366
2
23T
23T
1
Table 2: Servo assembly and installation.
4
4
3
1
2
2
1
A1620
Servo Mount
23T
• Ensure the servo gear is centered before attaching the Servo Horn. This is best accomplished by connecting the servo to the radio
system and setting the trim to center.
• Install the Servo Mounts in the orientation
corresponding to the numbered diagram to
the above right and Table 2.
• DO NOT tighten the four 4-40 x 3/8” Cap
Head Screws all the way, they must be tightened after assembly to the Chassis is complete to ensure proper alignment.
q STEP B-02
3
A6350
Servo
(Not Supplied)
x4
1/8” x .030”
A6215
x1
Ball Stuf
A6306
x1
A6025
x1
L 4-40 x 3/16”
Servo Screw
Std. .215”
(Not Supplied)
A1620
Servo Horn
(See Table 2)
A6206
x4
4-40” x 3/8”
Servo Installation
• First place the Servo into the Chassis
and place the Chassis Stiffener on top to
ensure the servo is centered in-between
the Mounts and as low as possible. Remove and tighten the four 4-40 x 3/8”
Cap Head Screws and continue with the
installation.
A6206
x4
4-40” x 3/8”
A4109
Chassis Stiffener
A4109
Chassis
BAG B
q STEP B-03
Chassis Assembly
Steering Link
(1.374in)
(34.9mm)
A6010
Ball Cup, Short
A6265
Threaded Insert
• The Steering Link length will vary depending on the brand and model of Servo
used. This length is only a starting point
and will most likely need to be adjusted
in Step F-01.
q STEP B-04
Completed Chassis
BAG C
q STEP C-01
Dogbone Assembly
A3029
Cross Bone
1
A3161
Coupler
2
A3028
Quick Change Axle
A3161
SOLID
x1
A6943
1/16” x 3/8”
3
x1
10 x 15mm
4
x2
q STEP C-02
Rear Hub Carrier Assembly
A3029
A3028
Cross Bone
A6026
Rear Axle
x1
Std. 1/4”
A6215
x3
Ball Stud
A2122
Rear Hub
1
A6945
x1
8x14x4mm
A3161
SOLID
A3102
x1
2
1/16” x 1/2”
Wheel Hex
A3103
Quick Change Lever
4
A3103
Quick Change Spring
3
L
BAG C
q STEP C-03
Rear Suspension Assembly
A6100
x4
A6350
1/8” E-Clip
x1
1/8 x .020”
A4126
Rear Pivot
A5050
x2
A4138
1/8” x 1/16”
Rear Hinge Pin Brace
A2139
Rear Arm VLA
A6092
SOLID
x1
1/8” x 1.900”
A6088
SOLID
x1
1/8” x 1.246”
q STEP C-04
q STEP C-05
Rear Bulkhead Assembly
Rear Plate Assembly
A6300
x2
A6216
4-40 x 1/4”
x2
4-40” x 7/8”
A6306
x4
A2103
L 4-40 x 3/16”
Rear Shock Tower
A6029
x2
Short .345”
A2106
A6220
Pivot Plate
x4
4-40” x 1/2”
A6210
x1
4-40” x 3/8”
BAG C
q STEP C-06
Tierod Assembly and Installation
• Use the Team Losi flat wrench to hold the Turnbuckle while installing the Ball Cups.
• Be sure to install the assembled Tierod onto the car with the groove (next to the center square section)
on the driver’s left side for easier adjustment later.
4.070
x2
A6003
Foam Thing
A6016
Ball Cup
q STEP C-07
Completed Rear Suspension
L
BAG D
q STEP D-01
Differential Assembly
• Apply a small amount of Clear Diff Grease to
both Diff Outdrives and the Diff Ring Shims
before installing the Diff Rings.
• Apply enough Clear Diff Grease to the top side
of the Diff Rings, or to both sides of recessed
Ball section in the Diff Gear (after Diff Balls
are installed) to cover the Diff Balls when the
Diff is assembled.
• Assemble the Diff and tighten until some resistance is felt, see the Final Checklist and Setup
Guide for final Diff adjustment procedures.
A6951
5
Diff Balls, Carbide
2
4
A3036
Diff Gear, 51T
A6907
x2
A3039
5mm x 8mm
Diff Ring
(Chrome)
A3038
Outdrive, Female
A3039
Diff Ring Shim
(Bronze)
Large Center Hole
A3038
Outdrive, Male
A3018
Thrust Bearing
Small Center Hole
A3078
A2908
Foam Diff Seal
Diff Spring
33
• The Diff Ring Shims are optional. If you choose
not to use them (See Setup Guide), you must
install the smaller Diff Shims on the outside of
the Diff before installing the Diff into the Gearbox case.
q STEP D-02
A2911
A3078
Diff Nut
Diff Screw
11
Transmission Assembly
A3041
Motor Plate
A3033
Gearbox, Right
A3033
A2937
x1
Idler Shaft
3/16” x .140”
A9930
Top Shaft
A3079
A6916
x2
3/16” x 3/8”
Idler Gear
A3033
Gearbox, Left
• Install the Differential with the Diff Nut towards the Motor Plate.
• The Diff Ring Shims installed in the previous step are optional. If you choose not to use
them (See Setup Guide), you must install two
additional smaller Diff Shims on the outside
of the Diff before installing the Diff into the
Gearbox case. NOTE, YOU MUST RUN
AT LEAST TWO OF THESE SHIMS AS
SHOWN.
A6206
x1
4-40 x 3/8”
A6909
x2
A3034
A6230
1/8” x 3/8”
x2
x2
1/2” x 0.010”
4-40 x 1 1/8”
A6908
x2
1/2” x 3/4”
A3034
2-56 x 5/8"
Cap Head Screw
BAG D
q STEP D-03
Slipper Clutch Installation
A6229
x2
4-40 x 3/8”
A4151
Fan Mount
A3132
Slipper Plate
A3123
A4123
Slipper Pad
Motor Guard
A3983
Spur Gear, 82T
A3124
Spring Spacer
A3125
Slipper Spring
A3135
Spring Retaining Washer
A6305
x1
L 4-40 x 1/4”
q STEP D-04
Motor Installation
• When setting the gear mesh, leave a small amount of backlash for proper function. Too much backlash will cause failure, so be sure to check the mesh at different points in the
rotation of the Spur Gear.
Motor
(Not Supplied)
Pinion Gear
(Not Supplied)
A3042
Gear Cover
A6350
x2
1/8” x .030”
A6238
x2
A3043
Gear Cover Plug
3mm x 6mm
A6206
x3
4-40” x 3/8”
10
BAG D
q STEP D-05
Transmission Installation
A6215
x1
Ball Stud
A3034
x1
4-40 x 1-1/2”
A6220
x2
4-40 x 1/2”
q STEP D-06
CAUTION! Ensure the Dogbone is
inserted into the slot in the Outdrive
before installing the Transmission.
Completed Rear Clip Assembly
11
BAG E
q STEP E-01
Shock Assembly
• Match short front Shock Bodies with assembled short front Shock Shafts and long rear Shock Bodies to assembled long rear Shock
Shafts.
• Holding the shock body inverted, fill the Shock Body with Shock Oil up to the bottom of the threads inside the Shock Body.
• Insert shaft assembly with cartridge against the shock piston.
• Slowly tighten the Cartridge until it bottoms against the Shock Body. Do not tighten all the way.
• Slowly push Shock Shaft assembly into the Shock Body. This will bleed the excess oil out of the Shock.
• Once the Shaft is pushed all the way down into the Shock Body, tighten the Shock Cartridge the rest of the way with a 7/16” wrench or a
pair of pliers approximately 1/8th of a turn.
• There should be no air in the Shocks as you move the Shaft in and out of the Shock Body. If there is; you will need to add some Oil and
repeat the bleed process. If the Shock does not compress all the way, the shock has too much Oil. Simply loosen the Cartridge about 1/4
turn and push the Shaft into the Body and retighten the Cartridge.
A9940
Ball Joint
A5023
Shock End
A5056
Shock Body,
Rear
A5055
Shock Body,
Front
A5062
Shock Shaft,
Rear
A5015
Shock Cartridge
A5049
A5015
Shock Adjustment
Nut
A5064
x1
Shock Shaft,
Front
1/8” x 0.140”
A5156
Spring, Rear
(Silver)
A5047
Shock Piston, #55
(Orange)
A5050
A6100
x1
1/8” x 0.625”
x00
A5045
1/8” E-Clip
Shock Piston, #57
(Black)
A5079
Spring Cup
12
A5147
Spring, Rear
(White)
BAG E
q STEP E-02
q STEP E-03
Front Shock Installation
A5013
Long Shock Bushing
A6308
x2
L 4-40 x 1/4”
A5013
Short Shock
Bushing
A6308
x2
L 4-40 x 1/4”
A6204
A6204
x1
4-40” x 1/2”
x1
4-40” x 1/2”
q STEP E-04
Completed Front and Rear Clips
13
Rear Shock Installation
BAG F
q STEP F-01
Front and Rear Clip Installation
• The Servo Link installed in Step B-03 was set
to an approximate length. The correct length
will vary depending on the type of servo used,
the radio settings, and the Servo Horn.
• It may be necessary to adjust this length, after
all radio gear is installed and the servo is centered properly, to obtain the maximum steering
throw and have the Steering Bellcranks centered without having extreme trim settings on
the radio.
A6206
A6204
x2
4-40 x 3/8”
A6215
x2
Ball Stud
x6
4-40 x 3/8”
A6210
x2
4-40 x 3/8”
q STEP F-02
q STEP F-03
Speed Control Installation
A4003
A4004
Antenna Cap
Double Side Tape
Electronic Speed Control
A4002
(Not Included)
Antenna Tube
Receiver
(Not Included)
A4004
Double Side Tape
14
Receiver Installation
BAG F
q STEP F-04
Battery Installation
A4170
Battery Strap
A4170
Battery Pad
1
3
This configuration is for
use with a stick type battery back.
A4114
Battery Spacer Foam
A8200
x1
2
q STEP F-05
Body Clip
Tire Mounting
• Using a pair of sharp scissors, carefully cut the
inside corners of the Tire Foams away to allow for easier mounting on the Wheel as shown
below.
• Ensure there is no flashing on the bead of the
Tires, if so, trim it away to allow for easier
mounting on the Wheel.
A7637R
Rear Tire, King Pin
A7698
Foam Tire Liner
Foam Cross
Section
A7064
Quick Change Wheel
1
A7505R
Front Tire,
Directional
2
15
BAG F
q STEP F-06
Tire Gluing
• The Tires need to be glued to the wheels. This can be done by using a fast-curing super glue or cyanoacrylate glue (LOSA7880, LOSA7881),
available at your local hobby shop. Install a Tire gluing rubber band around the outside of the Tire, in line with the bead to hold it onto the
Wheel.
• Now slightly pull back the tire bead from the wheel and apply a thin bead of glue between the Tire bead and the Wheel all the way around,
wait for this side to dry and do the same to the other side until the Tire is firmly adhered to the Wheel. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly
before continuing.
q STEP F-07
Tire Installation
A3102
Wheel Bushing
A9942
x1
A6236
3/16” x 0.240”
x2
2-56” x 1/2”
A6916
x2
A3016
3/16” x 3/8”
x1
3/16” x 0.100”
A6303
x1
L 10-32 x 3/8”
16
BAG F
q STEP F-08
Body and Wing Painting
Painting:
Prepare the Lexan® Body and Spoiler for painting by washing them thoroughly (inside and out) with warm water and liquid detergent.
Dry both the Body and Wings with a clean, soft cloth. Use the supplied Window Masks to cover the windows from the inside. A high-quality masking tape should be used on the inside of the Body to mask off any stripes, panels, or designs that you wish to paint on the Body
or Spoiler. Use acrylic lacquer or other paints recommended for Lexan® (polycarbonate). (NOTE: LEXAN® R/C CAR BODIES ARE
MEANT TO BE PAINTED FROM THE INSIDE!) Apply paint to the inside of the Body and to the under-side of the Spoiler. Remove the
masking tape for the next color and continue. Try to use darker colors first. If you use a dark color after a light color, apply a coat of white
paint over the lighter color before applying the darker color, or if you are painting over white, coat it with silver. This will help prevent the
darker color from bleeding through the lighter color.
Mounting:
After painting, trim the Body along the trim lines as shown below, emphasized by the dark shading in the figure below. There is an
indented trim line around the Body which can be used as a guide for trimming. Make four 1/4”-diameter holes at the locations marked with
dimples. There are two on the back of the Body, two on the front and one on the right side of the Body. These will be the Body mounting and
Antenna holes.
Now trim the rear Spoiler along the trim line shown below. With the Spoiler painted and completely trimmed, cut a piece of Two Sided
Tape approximately 3/8” wide and apply to the back side of the spoiler. Removed the backing from the tape and affix the Spoiler to the rear
of the body as shown.
Stickers:
After the Body is mounted, REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE FILM ON THE OUTER SURFACE, now you can apply the stickers.
Cut the stickers from the sticker sheet that you wish to apply to the Body or Wing. Before removing the protective backing, find the desired
location. Remove the backing completely and reattach an edge of the sticker to the shiny side of the backing material. Using the rest of the
backing material as a handle, position the sticker and press firmly into place to complete its application.
17
BAG F
q STEP F-09
Body and Wing Mounting
A8200
x4
Body Clip
18
CHECKLIST
BEFORE RUNNING YOUR NEW XXX- T CR OFF-ROAD RACING TRUCK for the first time, you should run down the following
checklist in order and complete the listed tasks. We’re sure you’re anxious to get out and run your new XXX-T CR now that its built, but
please note that fine tuning of the initial setup is an essential part of building a high performance racing truck such as your new XXX-T CR.
Following this simple Checklist and the Team Tips will help to make the first run with your new car much more enjoyable.
1. Breaking in the Differential:
While holding the chassis with only the left side tires firmly on the
ground, give the truck about one quarter throttle, for 10 seconds.
The right side tires should spin freely during this time. Repeat
this with only the right side tires held firmly to the ground, allowing the left tires to spin. Feel the differential (diff) action and
tighten slightly, if necessary. The differential should have a tight,
thick feel when rotating it after final adjustment. CAUTION!
YOUR DIFFERENTIAL SHOULD NEVER BE ALLOWED
TO SLIP WHEN RUNNING (A SLIPPING DIFFERENTIAL
CREATES A “BARKING” SOUND). IF IT DOES, STOP IMMEDIATELY AND TIGHTEN TO PREVENT DAMAGE.
SEE “DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT” AND “SLIPPER
ADJUSTMENT” IN THE SETUP GUIDE.
negative camber and ensure that they are adjusted equally, left to
right. Set the rear tires to have .5-1 degrees of negative camber
and ensure that they are adjusted equally, left to right.
5. Set the front toe-in:
Adjust the front steering tierods so that when the servo is centered on the transmitter, the front tires are both pointing straight.
Refer to the Setup Guide for more information on toe-in/out.
6. Charge a battery pack:
Charge a battery pack as per the battery manufacturer’s and/or
charger manufacturer’s instructions so that radio adjustments
can be made. Never plug the battery into the speed control backwards.
7. Adjust the electronic speed control (ESC):
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, adjust your speed
control and set the throttle trim on your ESC so that the truck
does not creep forward when no transmitter input is applied.
Make sure that there is not too much brake being applied when
the trigger/stick is in the neutral position. Some speed controls
have a high/low setting for the throttle and brake.
2. Check for free suspension movement:
All suspension arms and steering components should move freely. Any binds will cause the car to handle poorly.
3. Set the ride height:
Set the ride height on the rear so the dogbones are level (parallel)
to the ground by adjusting the shock adjustment nuts, effectively
increasing or decreasing pre-load on the springs. See the Setup
Guide for additional information on ride height adjustment.
8. Set the transmitter steering and throttle trim:
The steering trim tab on the transmitter should be adjusted so
that the truck rolls straight when you are not touching the steering wheel/stick. If the servo and steering link were installed correctly, the wheels should turn equally to the left and right. If this
is not the case, refer to Table 2 and ensure that the steering servo
and horn were properly installed. Also check the Steering Link
Length as noted in Step F-01. Make sure the throttle trim is set
so that the motor does not run when in the neutral position. You
may wish to run one “click” of brake to be safe.
4. Set the camber:
Adjusting the camber tierod length changes the amount of camber. Using the Team Losi flat wrench to adjust the tierods once
installed. Rotating the tierods towards the front end of the vehicle will shorten the length, increasing negative camber. Rotating
the tierods towards the back of the truck will lengthen them, increasing negative camber. Set the front tires to have 1 degree of
TIPS AND HINTS FROM THE TEAM
Before you start making changes on your XXX-T CR Off Road Racing Truck, you need to make a few decisions. Tires, and how they are
setup, have a tremendous impact on overall performance. Before you start making changes on the chassis setup, take a moment to observe a
few of the fastest cars at the track and what type of tire and inner liner they are running. When making chassis changes, you should first decide
where you feel the car needs to be different. This is commonly referred to as changing the “balance”. First decide if the front of the car needs
to be adjusted or the back. You will want to work with the rear if the car enters the turn with the front end sticking, and tracking well, while
the rear end either does not want to follow, or simply doesn’t know what it wants to do. The opposite is true if the rear end seems to want to
push the front end through the corners or if the front drives into the corner uncontrollably. You will notice that several different adjustments
have similar effects on the handling as well. You will find the best adjustment will become a personal decision based on the “feel” that each of
these adjustments yield. This also reflects on the “balance” we referred to earlier. Never make more than one change at a time; if the change
you made works adversely, or doesn’t address your need, return to the previous position and try something else. Team Losi’s development
team has put hundreds of hours on the XXX-T CR to arrive at the setup we put in the instruction manual. If you find that you have lost the
“handle” go back to the kit (stock) setup, as this setup has proven to be reliable, consistent, and easy to drive.
All of us at Team Losi are sure that you will find the XXX-T CR Off Road Racing Truck to be the most versatile and easiest truck to
drive fast, with great consistency. We hope the information in the following guide helps you to enjoy your XXXT-CR Truck, and racing it, as
much as we do. For the latest in setup and accessory parts information, visit the Team Losi web site at: www.teamlosi.com regularly. For any
technical questions go to the “Meet the Team” section of the site. We will try to answer your questions in the order received, to the best of our
knowledge, by our own Team Losi R&D race team. Please check the Team Losi web site periodically to find out new setup information as we
are always testing on all types of tracks and surfaces. Also note, that there are many ways to setup a truck. The rules we follow can reverse
sometimes with different driving styles or different setup styles, so test for yourself and you will find a setup that works right for you.
19
SETUP GUIDE
Tuning the Transmission of the XXX-T CR
Differential Adjustment: Never allow the diff to slip; that’s what the slipper is for. Before trying to adjust your diff, you need to tighten the
slipper until the spring is fully compressed. Next set the diff setting so it is on the tight side and break the diff in. How you break the diff in
is by placing one tire on the tabletop while the other tire is off of the tabletop. Then give the truck about ¼ throttle for 30 seconds. Then do
the same thing but place the opposite tire on the tabletop while the other tire is in the air and give the truck ¼ throttle for another 30 seconds.
Once that is done you can set the diff. The diff setting will loosen up a little while it is still breaking in and it is important for you to break
the diff in prior to driving the truck. Hold the spur gear and right rear tire, then try turning the left rear tire forward. It should be very difficult to turn the left rear tire. If the tire turns easily, the diff is too loose. To tighten the diff, line up the slot in the diff screw with the groove
in the left out drive. Place the 1/16” Allen wrench through both of these slots. This will lock the diff screw and the out drive together. While
holding the Allen wrench in place, turn the right rear tire forward about 1/8 of a turn. Check the differential adjustment again and repeat the
tightening process as necessary until the differential is no longer slipping. Do not forget to reset the slipper setting. See “Slipper Adjustment”
below, and then continue from here. The final differential adjustment check should be made by placing the truck on carpet, grass, or asphalt
and “punching” (quickly applying) the throttle. The differential should not slip. If it does, tighten the diff in 1/8-turn increments as described
above until the slippage stops.
Once the diff has been adjusted, it should still operate freely and feel smooth. If the diff screw starts to get tight before the diff is close to
being adjusted properly (based on slip), the diff should be disassembled and inspected; you may have a problem with the differential assembly. Refer to the assembly instructions to ensure that the diff is properly assembled and that all parts are properly seated in the assembly.
Motor Gearing: The important thing is to keep the motor in its optimal RPM range as much as possible around the entire track. This will
depend on the straight-away length and the size of the infield turns. The chart below is a guide to give you a starting point. You may want
to try gearing up (larger pinion or smaller spur) or down (smaller pinion or larger spur), one size at a time, noting the straight-away speed
and acceleration through the infield.
*NOTE: OVER GEARING (TOO LARGE OF A PINION OR TOO SMALL OF A SPUR) or UNDER GEARING (TOO SMALL OF A
PINION OR TOO LARGE OF A SPUR) CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO BOTH YOUR ELECTRONICS AND MOTOR. USE CAUTION
WHEN SELECTING YOUR GEARING.
Gear Ratio Calculation: The XXXT-CR includes a 82-tooth, 48-pitch Kevlar® spur gear. The overall internal drive ratio of the transmission is 2.43:1. The pinion gear that is used will determine the final drive ratio. To calculate the final drive ratio, first divide the spur gear size
by the pinion gear size. For example, if you are using a 21-tooth pinion gear, you would divide 82 (spur gear size) by 21 (pinion gear size);
82/21=3.90. This tells you that 3.90 is the external drive ratio of the transmission. Next, multiply the internal drive ratio (2.43) by the external
drive ratio (in this case 3.90). 2.43x3.90=9.48. This means that by using a 21-tooth pinion gear with a 82-tooth spur gear, the final drive ratio
is 9.48:1. Consult your high-performance shop for recommendations to suit your racing style and class. The chart below lists some of the
more common motor types and a recommended initial gearing for that motor. Ratios can be adjusted depend on various track layouts, tire
sizes, and battery types.
Modified Motor
Stock Motor
Motor Manufacturer, Make/Model
Spur
EPIC Based Monster
82
EPIC Based Binary (Two Magnet)
82
EPIC Based Binary (Four Magnet)
82
EPIC Based P2K/P2K2
82
TOP Based (Standard Brush)
82
TOP Based (V2)
82
Yokomo Based
82
All 19 Turn
82
10 Turn
82
11 Turn
82
12 Turn
82
13 Turn
82
14 Turn
82
15 Turn
82
Table 3: Suggested gearing.
Pinion
19
19
18
19
18-19
18-19
18-19
21-22
17
18
19
20
21
22
Tuning the Front End of the XXXT-CR
Shock Location: The XXX-T CR has four mounting locations on the front shock tower. The position can be easily adjusted by simply moving the top of the shock to another hole. The standard location (inside hole on the tower) works best on most tracks. Moving the top of the
shock out one hole will result in an increase in steering and will react quicker but will not drive/steer as smoothly, especially on the tighter
turns and when you apply throttle exiting turns. Moving the top of the shock inward a hole will slow steering response time and make the
truck smoother in bumps. The standard position on the arm is inside which offers the best balance from track to track. When using the middle
shock position you will want to move the shock out on the tower to keep the angle same angle as the stock location. A softer spring will be
needed when using the middle shock location to obtain the same roll stiffness as well as going to the next largest piston (from #57 to a #56
for example). Running the inside shock location will give the truck more steering into the turn and less steering on corner exit. Running the
20
SETUP GUIDE
shock location outside on the front arm will give you less overall steering into the turn and keep the front end flatter through the turn making
the truck smoother and easier to drive. This can be used on high bite tracks. Keep in mind as you move the shocks in on the arm will require
internal limiters to obtain the correct suspension travel. For the inside location a total of .200” limiter works great. Team Losi sells a shock
spacer set (LOSA5050) that includes .030”, .060”, .090, and .120” spacers.
Static Camber: This refers to the angle of the wheels/tires relative to the track surface (viewed from either the front or back). Negative
camber means that the top of the tire leans in toward the chassis. Positive camber means the top of the tire leans out, away from the chassis.
Camber can be precisely measured with after market camber gauges, sold at a local hobby shop. It can be measured (roughly) using any
square (to the ground) object by checking the gap between the square edge and the top of the tire. Testing has shown that 1 degree of negative
camber is best for most track conditions. Increasing negative camber (in the range of 1-2 degrees) will generally increase steering. Decreasing
negative camber (in the range of 0-1 degree) will generally decrease steering and the truck will feel easier to drive as a result. This is, most
often, a very critical adjustment in tuning your truck that can be made track-side!
Inboard Camber Location: The XXX-T CR has three different inner locations with vertical adjustment for the front camber tie rod. In general, the lower or further out the inside position is, relative to the outside, the more camber gain (total camber change through the total throw
of the suspension) is present. This is an adjustment that is difficult to make a generic statement for as it can have slightly different results on
various conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment will usually impact the handling of the XXX-T CR. A longer front
camber link will usually make the truck feel stiffer. This will help keep the truck flatter with less roll, but can make the truck handle worse in
bumpy conditions, it also will make the truck easier to drive. A shorter front camber link will result in more front end roll, which will provide
more steering on tighter turns with the loss of some stability. You will also lose some high speed steering but might gain some more steering
response. Too short of a front link may make the truck feel “twitchy” or “wandery” meaning that it may be difficult to drive straight at high
speed.
Inboard Camber Vertical Adjustment: Washers are often used under the inner ball stud mounting location; this is one of the most important
adjustments on the XXX-T CR truck. You should get a feel for how the number of washers affects the handling. Adding washers will make
the truck more stable and keep the front end flatter and works well on higher bite tracks.. Removing washers will make the steering more aggressive, which works well on lower bite tracks. This can be good in some conditions, but can also make the truck difficult to drive in others.
The best all-around adjustment is with two washers as per the assembly instructions. The washers that are used are included in a assortment
package of washers (LOSA6350).
Outboard Camber Location: In addition to the inboard camber location the XXX-T CR also provides outboard three mounting options. The
middle location is the most used as it provides the best and most consistent handling on different track surfaces. The outer location also helps
the truck stay tighter in turns with a more precise steering feel. Moving the link to the inner hole will make the steering react slightly slower
and steer smoother. The advantage to the inner hole is that it can increase on power steering and help the truck get through bumps better.
Toe-In/Out: This is the parallel relationship of the front tires to one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing the overall length
of the steering tie rods. Toe-in (the front of the tires point inward, to a point in front of the front axle) will make the truck react a little slower,
but have more steering from the middle of the turn, out. The opposite is true with toe-out (the front of the tires point outward, coming to a
point behind the front axle), the truck will turn into the corner better but with a decrease in steering from the middle of the turn, out. Toe-in
will help the truck to “track” better on long straights, where as toe-out has a tendency to make the truck wander. We recommend to run between 0-degree of toe-in/out to 1 degree of toe-in.
Bump-In/Out: Bump-out (front of the front tires toe-outward under suspension compression) will result in more off-power steering and less
consisent handling if you have too much bump-out. This effect is obtained by adding washers under the steering spindle ball stud. Bump-In
(front of the front tires toe-inward under suspension compression) will result in less off-power steering and running too much bump-in can
make the steering feel very inconsistent. This effect is obtained by installing a ball stud washer on the bottom of the spindle. Testing has
shown that running a little bit of bump-in (kit setup) in the XXX-T CR offers the best overall setup.
Caster: This is the angle of the kingpin from vertical when viewed from the side of the truck. The XXX-T CR comes equipped with 30-degree spindle carriers and a 30 degree kick-up angle. Total caster is determined by adding the amount of kick up (XXX-T CR has 30-degrees)
and the kingpin angle of the front spindle carriers. Increasing total caster will provide more steering entering a turn but less on exit. Decreasing total caster will cause the steering to react faster and increase on-power steering.
Variable Length Arm and carrier: The front arms of the XXX-T CR have the option to have different front arm lengths. The stock position is the short arm length which gives the truck the best balance for most tracks. For most tracks the standard setup will work well, but for
extremely bumpy, rutted, and high bite tracks the longer arm length will help slow the reactions of the truck making it feel less twitchy and
more stable. For the long front arm length, the spring rate will need to be increased to the next stiffest spring to have the same roll stiffness
as the stock settings. The shock piston will also need to be changed to the next size smaller piston (from a #57 to a #60 piston) while keeping
the same weight shock oil to keep the same static dampening and pack.
Tuning the Rear End of the XXX-T CR
Shock Location: Moving the top of the shocks outward (from the stock settings) on the tower will provide less rotation in a corner and the
truck will become more responsive with increased forward traction. This will also help keep the truck from bottoming out on big jumps.
Moving the shocks out on the arm will result in less forward traction and let the truck truckry more of an arc through the exit of the turn. In
general, when changing shock locations on the arm, it will be necessary to go down one spring rate when moving out on the arm as well as
21
SETUP GUIDE
goingto less pack.
Static Camber: Having the same definition as for the front end and measured in the same fashion, rear camber can also be a critical tuning
feature. Testing has shown that running a small amount of negative camber (.5-1 degree) is best. Increasing negative rear camber (in the range
of 1.5-3 degrees) will increase stability and traction in corners, but decrease high speed stability. Decreasing rear camber (in the range of 0-1.5
degrees) will decrease stability and traction in corners, but will increase high speed stability.
Inboard Camber Location: The XXX-T CR has multiple rear camber locations. Using a longer camber link will improve stability and traction (grip). Using a shorter camber link will increase steering while decreasing rear grip. Running the camber link in the inside position (1)
on the shock tower will give your truck more steering entering the turn as it will let the truck set over the rear tire and give you more forward
traction exiting the turn. As you move the camber link towards the outside of the truck you will gain less initial steering however you will
gain more steering as the truck exits the turn. The XXX-T CR now has the capabilities of a lower row of holes in the rear shock tower for
the inner camber link location. The lower holes gives the truck more camber gain (more angle relative to arm = more camber gain). This can
be helpful when tracks get bumpy and rutted to help the rear end of the truck go through the bumps easier due to the increased camber gain
of the tires.
Outboard Camber Location: Running the camber link in the inside position (A) on the hub will generate more rotation entering a turn, but
decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link in the furthest outer position (C) on the hub will generate more stability entering a turn
and increase steering on exit.
Outboard Camber Vertical Adjustment: New to the XXX-T CR is the vertical mounted ball stud on the hub. Washers are often used under
the outer ball stud to determine the height of the ball stud. Raising the height of the ball stud increases camber gain while lowering the height
of the ball stud decreases camber gain. Testing has shown that running the inboard rear camber ball stud in a higher location (less angle relative to arm = less camber gain) on high traction surfaces offers improved stability with decreased rear grip. Also, on low traction surfaces,
running the inboard rear camber ball stud in a lower location (more angle relative to arm = more camber gain) will increase rear grip.
Toe-In: Having the same definition as for the front end, the toe-in can be adjusted on the XXX-T CR with the rear hubs. The stock toe-in is
3 degrees of inboard per side and 0 degrees in the hub. Increasing rear toe-in will increase forward traction and initial steering, but reduce
straightaway speed. Decreasing rear toe-in will decrease forward traction and “free-up” the truck. Less toe-in can be used for stock racing to
gain top speed.
Anti/Pro-Squat: In the stock configuration, the XXX-T CR has 2 degrees of anti-squat. Increasing anti-squat is generated by raising the front
of the pivot block, relative to the rear of the pivot. This will increase initial steering and forward traction. You can increase anti-squat in 1
degree increments by using two .030” washers between the front of the pivot plate and pivot block. Pro-squat is generated by raising the rear
of the pivot relative to the front. This will decrease forward traction and initial steering, but provide more on-power steering on high traction
tracks. Pro-squat will also help the truck from pulling wheelies on high bite surfaces. Also available is an aftermarket part that is a 0 degree
rear pivot block (LOSA2112), if pro-squat is desired it is best to start with this option.
Variable Length Arm and carrier: Like the front of the XXX-T CR, the rear end also has variable length arms and carriers. The stock setting is in the short arm location which offers the best balance for most tracks. Moving the hinge pin to the outer location of the arm and hub
will give a long arm setting which is suitable for tracks where less rear traction is needed. This can be used on high bite tracks to help settle
the truck down from the rear end. For the long rear arm length, the spring rate will need to be increased to the next stiffer spring, the piston
will also need to be changed to the next smaller piston (from a #55 to a #56 piston) while using the same shock oil to keep the same static
dampening and pack.
Tuning the Chassis of the XXX-T CR
Slipper Adjustment: This should be done after the diff is properly adjusted. If you have just finished adjusting the differential, loosen the
slipper adjustment nut four full turns. This will be a good starting point for your slipper settings.
Ride Height: This is the height of the chassis in relation to the surface of the track. It is an adjustment that affects the way your truck jumps,
turns, and goes through bumps. To check the ride height, drop one end (front or rear) of the truck from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat
surface. Once the truck settles into a position, check the height of that end of the truck in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height,
lower the shock adjuster nuts on the shock evenly on the end (front or rear) of the truck that you are working on. To lower the ride height,
raise the shock adjuster nuts. Both left and right nuts should be adjusted evenly.
You should start with the rear ride height where the truck comes to a rest at a height where the dog bones are slightly below level with
the surface. The front ride height should be set so that the bottom of the chassis is level with the surface. Occasionally, you may want to raise
the front ride height to get a little quicker steering reaction but be careful as this can also make the truck easily flip over. Every driver likes a
little different feel so you should try small ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you like. We have found that ride height is really a minor
adjustment. This should be one of the last adjustments after everything else has been dialed in (tuned). Do not use ride height adjustment as
a substitute for a change in spring rate. If your truck needs a softer or firmer spring, change the spring. Do not think that simply moving the
shock nuts will change the stiffness of the spring; it will not!
Battery Position: This is a critical adjustment that is often overlooked but can be very useful. Start by running the battery spaced in the
middle (kit setup). Moving the battery back can improve rear traction on slippery surfaces and steering response. Moving the battery back too
far can cause the rear end to swing through turns on some tracks and “dump” the rear end causing instability issues. This is a result of having
22
SETUP GUIDE
the weight too far back. The XXX-T CR comes equipped with one foam battery spacer. This can be cut in half (lengthwise and truckefully)
to split the difference when adjusting the battery position, hence offering a middle position when either extreme is inadequate.
Camber Rise Relationship: The XXX-T CR setup out of the box comes with less front camber gain than the rear camber gain. The reason
for this is that less front camber lets the front end drive flatter and makes the truck more stable. By having more camber gain in the rear gives
the truck more rear traction and helps the rear tires accelerate through the bumps and ruts.
Rear Spoiler Setup: Another tuning option included with the XXX-T CR is done with down force. The new rear spoiler has been tested to
prove itself better on every surface making the car more stable. The new rear spoiler is wider than the previous spoiler, and it also features a
wicker strip/gurney flap and end plates. This wing/spoiler can be used on the Team Losi AD2 gas truck as well.
Plastic Outdrives: Plastic out drives (LOSA3097) can be used on your XXX-T CR to gain more acceleration due to the low weight of the
plastic outdrives (roughly 30% lighter than the standard steel outdrives) which can be ideal for Stock and 19T racing. The plastic outdrives
also reduce the friction of the dog bone pin as it plunges in and out of the outdrive under suspension compression and rebound. The reduction
of friction gives the truck less rear traction as a result.
Graphite Components: Graphite components are available for the XXX-T CR and can be used as a tuning option at times. The graphite
components give the truck less flex which result in a more reactive truck. The graphite parts also make the truck lighter in overall weight.
Plastic parts offer some more flex which tend to make the truck easier to drive on lower traction and bumpy tracks. The plastic parts that have
been supplied in the kit offer the best all around balance from track to track.
Diff Shims: The XXX-T CR comes with differential shims that go in between the diff out drive and diff ring. The shims allow the diff rings
to slip on the shim instead of on the diff balls. This adds to the life of the diff immensely. We recommend that the diff shims are used all the
times to ensure longevity of your differential.
Setup Notes: ____________________________________________________________________________________________________
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23
SETUP SHEET
1/2°
1.22 in
-1/2°
Stock
No
30 wt.
57
Silver
.210 in
Bottom
Inside
.100 in
Bellcrank
3 ball stud washers
2-B 2 washers under inner
Inside
Short
3°
1.18 in
-1°
Center
CV/Steel
No
30 wt.
55
White
No
2/B with 3 washers
Middle
Short
Stock
Stock
Middle
8-Rib
King Pin
Red
Red
24
HARDWARE
Cap Head
Flat Head
Button Head
Set
4-40 x 3/8” (A6206)
4-40 x 3/8” (A6210)
2-56 x 1/2” (A6236)
5-40 x 1/8” (A6228)
4-40 x 1/2” (A6204)
4-40 x 1/2” (A6220)
4-40 x 3/8” (A6229)
4-40 x 5/8” (A6248)
4-40 x 7/8” (A6216)
4-40 x 5/8” (A6233)
Ball Bearings
4-40 x 1-1/8” (A3034)
4-40 x 7/8” (A6226)
3/32” x 3/16” (A6912)
4-40 x 1-1/2” (A3034)
5mm x 8mm (A6907)
3mm x 6mm (A6238)
1/8” x 3/8” (A6909)
3/16” x 3/8” (A6916)
Ball Studs
Washers
Metal Spacers
8 x 14 x 4mm (A6945)
.215” Standard Neck HD (A6025)
3/16” x .100” (A3016)
Ball Stud (A6215)
1/4” Standard Neck HD (A6026)
3/8” Standard Neck HD (A6027)
.345 Short Neck HD (A6029)
10mm x 15mm (A6943)
3/16” x .240” (A9942)
1/8” x .020” Stainless (A6350)
1/8” x .030” Gold (A6350)
1/2” x 3/4” (A6908)
1/2” x .010” (A6230)
Plastic Spacers
Roll/Solid Pins
Retaining Clips
1/16” x 3/8” Solid (A3161)
1/8” E-Clip (A6100)
3/32” x .930” Solid (A6081)
1/8” x 1/16” (.0625”) (A5050)
L 4-40 x 3/16” (Mini) (A6306)
3/32” E-Clip (A6103)
1/16” x 1/2” Solid (A3161)
1/8” x .050” (A2216)
Nuts (Lock/Plain)
4-40 x 1/4” (6300)
1/8” x .960” Solid (A6086)
1/8” x .140” (“A”) (A5015)
L 4-40 x 1/4” (A6308)
Body Clip (A8200)
1/8” x 1.246” Solid (A6088)
1/8” x 1.420” Solid (A6089)
3/16” x .140” (A3033)
L 6-40 x 5/16” (A1610)
1/8” x 1.900” Solid (A6092)
L 10-32 x 3/8” (A6303)
DETAIL ICON REFERENCE KEY
1 These numbers are used to identify the critical order in which assembly must occur. *Note: They will not call out every stage of the assembly process.
LOCTITE
L
Apply Loctite®
CLEAR
GREASE
Pay Special
Attention
CUT
Side Shown
LL
RR
Apply Clear
Grease
GLUE
Ensure Free
Movement
Cut/Trim
Assemble Other
Side the Same
Apply CA Glue
x2
GREASE
Apply Synthetic
White Grease
Ensure Free
Rotation
Repeat/Build
Multiple
Screw Partially
25
OIL
Fill With
Silicone Oil
Pre-Tap
Ensure Proper
Orientation
Push Firm
DO NOT
Over Tighten/
Snug Tight
Tighten
KIT SETUP
26
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