SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
TM
Outdoor Furnaces
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
When these safety symbols appear on the following pages, they will
alert you to the possibility of serious injury if you do not comply with the
corresponding instructions. The hazard may originate from something
mechanical or electrical shock. Please read the instructions carefully.
When you see this safety symbol on the following pages, it will alert you
to the possibility of damage to your HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor
Furnace if you do not comply with the corresponding instructions. Please
read the instructions carefully.
The HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace is certified to offer safe
service provided it is installed, operated and maintained in accordance with
the instructions contained in this manual.
Proper personal protective equipment, (PPE), MUST BE WORN AT ALL
TIMES when servicing, loading and maintaining any of the HEATMORTM
Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace product line.
ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS Page #
iDEAR HEATMOR™ OWNER1
ii
NOTICE TO THE READER2
iii
CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE3,4
1
HEATMOR™ STAINLESS STEEL FURNACE MODEL 400-4S
5
2
FURNACE SPECIFICATIONS6
3front CUT AWAY VIEW OF HEATMOR™ OUTDOOR FURNACE
7
furnace parts list8
4rear CUT AWAY VIEW OF HEATMOR™ OUTDOOR FURNACE
9
furnace parts list10
5
MINIMUM CLEARANCE SEPARATION SPECIFICATIONS
11
6
WARNINGS AND PRECAUTIONS12
A
Installation12
B
Electrical13
C
Other13
7
CONCRETE PAD SPECIFICATIONS14
8
INSTALLATION OF THE HEATMOR™ FURNACE 15
A
Equipment Required15
B
Placing the HEATMOR™ on the Concrete Pad
15
C
Caulking Around the Outside Perimeter of HEATMOR™
15
D
Filling the HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace Initially with Water
16
E
Maintaining Water in the Bladder and in the HEATMOR™
17
9
SAFE OPERATING GUIDELINES18
A
Operation18
B
Lighting Your HEATMOR™ for the First Time20
C
Dew Point21
D
Loading Wood into the HEATMOR™22
E
What can I burn?23
i. Wood23
F
How does a fire burn out?23
G
Types of Wood24
H
Wood as a Fuel24
IStages of Combustion24
J
Efficiency Measurements and Types of Fires25
K
Loading of the Furnace25
L
Handling and Storage of Wood26
10
Water27
A
Qualities of Water to Use27
B
Water Level Maintenance27
C
Removal of water and replacement of water27
D
Water Additives28
E
Water Treatment Additives and Safety Specifications29
iii
F
Adding Water Treatment and Freeze Protection Products
30
11
BLADDER ASSEMBLY31
A
Bladder31
B
Removal and Replacement of the Bladder31
C
Bladder Gate Valve and Bladder Hose
32-33
12
WATER JACKET34
A
Water Jacket34
B
Supply Line and Return Line Connectors34
C
Relief Vent Pipe and Weighted Pop off Ball
34
13
FIREBOX AND OTHER COMPONENTS
35
A
Firebox35
B
Secondary Air Wing35
C
Firebox and Flue Thermocouples36
D
Firebox Door37-38
E
Firebox Door Hoses and Elbows39
F
Firebox Door Handle40
G
Firebox Door Hinge41
H
Firebox Door Latch41
IFirebox Door Magnet41
J
Firebox Door Gasket and Insulation41-42
K
Firebox Door Frame43
L
Ceramic43
M
Standard Grates and Insulation44
N
Grate Plate45
O
Flash Curtain / Heat Shield46
14
AIR SUPPLY47
A
Combustion Air Blower, Solenoid and Flipper 47
i. Operation of the Combustion Air Blower 47
ii. Steps to Maintain your Blower 47
B
Primary/Secondary Air Motor48
C
Air Box(s)49
D
Automatic Fan Switch (A.F.S.)49
15
CHIMNEY AND TOP FLUE50
A
Chimney50
B
Chimney Extension(s)50
C Rain Caps and Spark Arrestor51
D
Flue51
E
Flue Covers
51
F
Flue Scraper51
16
ASHES52
A
Ash Management and Ash Removal52
B
Ash Pan53
C
Ash Scraper53
D
Ash Cleanout Tube53
E
Ash Cleanout Tube Cover Plate54
iv
17 THERMOMETER (TEMPERATURE GAUGE)
55
18
ELECTRICAL56
A
Electrical Supply56
B
Electrical Supply Junction Box56
C
Double Electrical Outlets at rear57
D
Water Temperature Probe57
E
High Water Temperature Safety Shutoff Controller 57
F
Front Light and Fan Power Switch58
G
In The Event of a Power Failure59
19electronics60
A
Controller60
20 eXTERIOR CLADDING AND INSULATION
61
A
Outer Door of HEATMOR™61
B
Roof of the HEATMOR™61
C
Sides of the HEATMOR™62
D
Insulation62
21
AIR LEAKS63
A
Checking For Air Leaks63
B
Why do we not want any air leaks?63
22
WATER LEAKS64
23
DOMESTIC COIL65
24season start up & shut down checklists
66-67
25
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS69-70
26
TROUBLESHOOTING AND SOLUTIONS71-83
84-85
HEATMOR™ STAINLESS STEEL LIMITED WARRANTY
new furnace delivery check list86
HEATMOR™ for Life87
NOTES88
Wiring diagram89-90
v
Dear HEATMOR™ Owner,
On behalf of myself and the employees of HEATMOR™, I would like to take this opportunity to personally
thank you for the purchase of our HEATMOR™ Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace. You can be assured that
your HEATMOR™ was constructed with great emphasis on quality and workmanship. It is our commitment to
provide you with the finest outdoor furnace in the industry. We wish you many years of trouble-free use and we
sincerely hope you enjoy the comforts of burning wood.
This manual contains the manufacturer’s recommendations for operation and maintenance of the HEATMOR™
Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace. Also included are some regular maintenance tips and FAQ’s (frequently
asked questions). Please observe and follow all safety instructions as directed in this manual. SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.
Finally, please fill out your registration and warranty forms, if you haven’t done so already. If you have any
further questions on the operation or maintenance of your HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace, please contact your
local dealer.
Sincerely,
Gerry Reed,
President
1
Notice to the Reader
HEATMOR™ Inc. warrants and guarantees ALL HEATMOR™ Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Models.
HEATMOR™ Inc. does not warrant or guarantee any of the supporting products described within this
Operations and Maintenance Manual.
The contents, descriptions, directions, diagrams, and recommendations within this material are for the sole
purpose of suggested operation and maintenance methods.
Furthermore, HEATMOR™ Inc. shall not be liable for any special, consequential, or exemplary damages,
resulting, in whole or part, from the readers’ neglectful use, based upon the material within this Operations and
Maintenance Manual. Adhere to and follow all maintenance procedures set forth in this manual.
The methods of operation described within this Operations and Maintenance Manual have proven to be
effective for HEATMOR™ Inc. for the sole purpose of the operation of a HEATMOR™ Stainless Steel Outdoor
Furnace.
All formulas and figures listed within this Operations and Maintenance Manual are approximated and should be
read as such.
For additional copies or information, contact
HEATMOR™ Inc.
105 Industrial Park Court NE,
P.O. Box 787,
Warroad, MN 56763 USA
Phone: (218) 386-2769
Fax: (218) 386-2947
Website: www.heatmor.com
E-mail: woodheat@heatmor.com
Copyright © 2012 - HEATMOR™ INC.
All rights reserved. No part of this Operations and Maintenance Manual may be reproduced or used in any
form or by any means - graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or
information storage and retrieval systems - without the written permission of HEATMOR™ Inc.
MODEL 400-4S
2
3
Units are Safety Listed by Omni Test Laboratories
Report # 275-O-09-2
Listed to UL2523-2009 and CSA B366.1-11
Units are Safety Listed by Omni Test Laboratories
Report # 275-O-09-2
Listed to UL2523-2009 and CSA B366.1-11
4
Chapter 1
HEATMOR™ Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Model 400-4S
5
CHAPTER 2
Furnace Specifications
Specifications
Model 400-4S
Overall Width (Inches)
Base Width (Inches) (Footprint)
56
53
Overall Height (Inches)
(With chimney stub)
97
Overall Length (Inches)
Base Length (Inches) (Footprint)
95
85
Total Weight (lbs., without water)
2506
Water Capacity (U.S. gallons)
488
Forced Draft (C.F.M.)
Variable 226
Chimney Size (Inches)
10”
Wood Length (Inches)
41”
Insulated Heating Area (Sq. Ft.)*
1 Loading/day
2 Loading/day
5000
10,000
Firebox Width (Inches)
23
Firebox Length (Inches)
41
Firebox Height (Inches)
41
Volume of Firebox (Cu. Ft.)
22
Firebox Door Size (Inches) (W x H)
Flue Transfer Area (Sq. Ft.)
18 x 26
56
BTU’s (maximum)**
400,000
Water Jacket Steel
Gauge
409 Stainless
10
Firebox Steel
Gauge
409 Stainless
10
Integrated Base Steel
Gauge
409 Stainless
10
Base of Unit to
Bottom of Loading Door (Inches)
Warranty - Workmanship
Warranty - Corrosion
Approvals Test Standards
Safety Standards
Hook-ups
Type of Fuel
Electrical Supply
25
Limited Lifetime
Limited Lifetime
EPA Phase 2
UL 2523-2009
CSA-B366.1-11
Back
Wood Only
115 V, 60HZ, 1 Phase
* This is an estimate only. Actual loadings per day may vary depending on structures heated and type of wood used.
** This value should only be used as an indication of the furnace’s heat recovery ability. Sustained outputs at this rate will increase the loadings per day. Some types of wood may prevent the furnace from reaching this maximum output.
6
CHAPTER 3
front Cut-Away view of HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace
(For parts not shown on the cut-away view, please refer to the appropriate chapter for further details.)
7
Furnace Parts List
Firebox
Ashes
1)Firebox
2)
Firebox door
3)
Firebox door hoses and elbows
4)
Firebox door handle
5)
Firebox door hinge
6)
Firebox door latch
7)
Firebox door handle holder(not shown)
8)
Firebox door gasket
9)
Firebox door frame
10)Ceramic
11)
Standard grates
12)
Flash curtain / heat shield(not shown)
28)
29) 30)
Water jacket
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
Water jacket (surrounds firebox)
Supply line threaded connector(not shown)
Return line threaded connector(not shown)
Relief vent pipe
Weighted pop off valve
Air supply
18)
19)
20)
21)
49) Combustion air blower(not shown)
Flipper assembly(not shown)
Air box
Automatic Fan Switch (A.F.S.)
Secondary Air Wing
Chimney and top flue
22)
23)
24)
25)
26) 27)
Chimney Stub
Chimney extension(s)(not shown)
Rectangular flue
Front flue cover plate
Rear flue cover plates(not shown)
Flue scraper(not shown)
Ash pan
Ash scraper(not shown)
Ash pan cover plate
Bladder assembly
31)Bladder
32)
Bladder gate valve and hose
33)
Water level gauge(not shown)
Thermocouples
34)
35) 36) Fire door thermocouple
Firebox thermocouple #1, #2, #3
Water thermocouple
Electrical
37)
38)
39)
40)
Electrical supply junction box(not shown)
Electrical plug outlets(not shown)
Water temperature high-limit controller (aquastat) (not shown)
Front light and combustion air blower control switch(not shown)
Housing
41)
Outer front door
42)
Outer rear door(not shown)
43)Roof
44)
Sides(not shown)
45)
Insulation(not shown)
Optional hot water internal coil
46)
Internal coil(not shown)
Lift hook
47)
48)
Lift ring
Box of Chemical, Keys, Manual(not shown)
8
CHAPTER 4
rear Cut-Away view of HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace
(For parts not shown on the cut-away view, please refer to the appropriate chapter for further details.)
9
Furnace Parts List
Firebox
Ashes
1)Firebox
2)
Firebox door
3)
Firebox door hoses and elbows
4)
Firebox door handle
5)
Firebox door hinge
6)
Firebox door latch
7)
Firebox door handle holder(not shown)
8)
Firebox door gasket
9)
Firebox door frame
10)Ceramic
11)
Standard grates
12)
Flash curtain / heat shield(not shown)
28)
29) 30)
Water jacket
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
Water jacket (surrounds firebox)
Supply line threaded connector
Return line threaded connector(not shown)
Relief vent pipe
Weighted pop off valve
Air supply
18)
19)
20)
21)
49) Combustion air blower
Flipper assembly(not shown)
Air box
Automatic Fan Switch (A.F.S.)
Secondary Air Wing
Chimney and top flue
22)
23)
24)
25)
26) 27)
Chimney Stub
Chimney extension(s)(not shown)
Rectangular flue
Front flue cover plate
Rear flue cover plates
Flue scraper(not shown)
Ash pan
Ash scraper(not shown)
Ash pan cover plate
Bladder assembly
31)Bladder
32)
Bladder gate valve and hose
33)
Water level gauge(not shown)
Thermocouples
34)
35) 36) Fire door thermocouple
Firebox thermocouple #1, #2, #3
Water thermocouple
Electrical
37)
38)
39)
40)
Electrical supply junction box
Electrical plug outlets
Water temperature high-limit controller (aquastat)
Front light and combustion air blower control switch(not shown)
Housing
41)
Outer front door
42)
Outer rear door
43)Roof
44)
Sides(not shown)
45)
Insulation(not shown)
Optional hot water internal coil
46)
Internal coil(not shown)
Lift hook
47)
48)
Lift ring
Box of Chemical, Keys, Manual(not shown)
10
CHAPTER 5
Minimum clearance separation specifications
The HEATMORTM furnace, is certified to be installed outside, away from other buildings. Please observe the
following “Clearance to Combustibles” guidelines. If you have further questions, which are not addressed
in this Operators Manual, please contact your local dealer for further information.
-To HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Back
96 Inches
TM
-To HEATMOR Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Top
18 Inches
48 Inches
-To HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Front
-To HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Chimney
96 Inches
6 Inches
-To HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace Sides
-Do not store combustible liquids or materials near the furnace.
-It is not recommended to install the furance in any form of building.
Before installing your HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace, if in the United States, always check
any and all applicable state and local regulations and inform your insurance agent.
Before installing your HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace, if in Canada, always check any and all
applicable Provincial and Municipal regulations and inform your insurance agent.
HEATMORTM Inc. strongly recommends not installing a HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace within
50 feet of any flammable structure.
A HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace should be located with consideration to your neighbor’s
property and in accordance with local ordinances. Refer to the “Best Burn Practices” for further operating
considerations.
HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnaces are not designed or certified to be located in densely populated
areas.
11
CHAPTER 6
warnings and precautions
Please read the following list of cautions, warnings and dangers before installing and operating your
HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace. If you have any questions or concerns regarding any of the
following cautions, warnings or dangers or instructions in this Operations and Maintenance manual, please
contact your local dealer.
Familiarize yourself with the “Best Burn Practices” located on the inside front cover.
Installation
Installation should be performed by a qualified installer and will comply with all the requirements of
the authority having jurisdiction over the installation.
1) The HEATMORTM furnace is design fvor outside installation, away from other buildings.
2) Please observe the following “Clearance to Combustibles” guidelines.
To unit back = 96 inches
To unit sides = 6 inches
To unit front = 48 inches
To chimney = 96 inches
To unit top = 18 inches
3) Before installing the furnace, always check any and all applicable state, provincial, and local
regulations.
4) HEATMORTM strongly recommends not installing a HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace
within 50 feet of any flammable structure.
5) A HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace should be located with consideration to your
neighbor’s property and ina ccoradance with local ordinances. HEATMORTM Stainless Steel Outdoor
Furnace. are not designed to be located in densely populated areas.
6) HEATMORTM suggests the use of brass fittings when installing the unit.
7) Before installing the HEATMORTM furnace, contact and inform your insurance agent.
8) The HEATMORTM Outdoor Furnace is to be installed on a concrete base only. Any attempt to place
the furnace on any other surface may void the warranty.
9) Do not connect the HEATMORTM furnace to the chimney of any existing heating system.
10) This unit was not designed, nor is it recommended, for use as a stand-alone heating system. A
back up source of heat must be in place to prevent the outdoor furnace from freezing and to provide supplementary heat for the heated buildings.
11) Do not pressurize the HEATMORTM Outdoor Furnace. This unit is designed to operature under
atmospheric pressure only.
12) Place the in-line fill/drain assembly in a location where the drained contexts of the HEATMORTM will
not cause damage to the surrounding areas or it’s contents.
12
Electrical
1) Do not connect the electrical components of the HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace to any other electrical appliance.
2) This HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace operates on 115-volt power only. Do not connect the furnace to a 220-
volt electrical supply.
3) HEATMOR™ INC. recommends a licensed professional electrician make all the necessary electrical connections involved with the installation of the furnace.
4) Always disconnect the HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace from the main electrical supply before servicing any of the electrical components of the HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace.
5) Always disconnect any existing electrical connections to any in-house heating system, before installing the outdoor furnace to any existing indoor heating system or appliances.
Other
1) The unit may be connected to an existing indoor boiler system by installing a water-to-water heat exchanger.
1) HEATMOR™ INC. recommends that you contact a licensed professional plumber to make all necessary plumbing installations between the HEATMOR™ furnace and the existing heating system of your building(s).
2) Do not operate the HEATMOR™ furnace until all electrical and water line connections have been properly installed and tested.
3) Do not allow any fire in the firebox until the HEATMOR™ has the correct amount of water installed.
13
CHAPTER 7
Model 400-4S Concrete Pad Specifications
55”
6”
The actual pad size is 55” x 86”. This gives
approximately 1” extra on all sides of furnace.
CAUTION: Do not exceed this length measurement.
Width can be wider if desired.
9.5”
10”
36”
HOLES FOR HOOK-UPS
The bottom of the loading door is 25” above ground
or base of furnace. If you desire to have the leading
door higher, you can do so by making the pad depth
thicker.
Example: 12” instead of 4” or any figure in between.
86”
Patio stones or separate cement pad in front of the
loading door should NOT be attached to main base
of furnace.
BASE: OUTDOOR FURNACE SITS ON THIS PAD
It is recommended to use steel mesh or R-bar in pad for strength.
Benefits to raising the pad:
1. Gives space below the ash cleanout to place a pail
for convenient ash removal.
2. Allows better visibility of the firebox.
3. Less bending when adding wood.
4. Keeps smoke above the operator.
5. Protects the bottom of the HEATMOR™.
48”
PATIO STONES OR SEPARATE CEMENT SLAB
FOR CONVENIENT LOADING
FIREBOX
DOOR
OUTDOOR FURNACE SITS HERE
SIDE VIEW
CEMENT BASE 4” - 12”
HIGHER THAN WHERE
THE OPERATOR STANDS.
CEMENT BASE
OUTDOOR FURNACE SITS HERE
FOUR INCH GRAVEL BASE
UNDERGROUND LINES
PATIO STONES OR
SEPARATE CEMENT SLAB.
LOADING AREA
GROUND
LEVEL
14
CHAPTER 8
INSTALLATION OF THE HEATMOR™ FURNACE
Installation should be performed by a qualified installer and will comply with all the requirements of
the authority having jurisdiction over the installation.
Principles
1) Need to seal the perimeter of the entire HEATMOR™ so rodents are not able to find a home inside the HEATMOR™.
2) Need to lift the HEATMOR™ without damaging it.
Equipment Required
1) It is not possible to lift a HEATMOR™ with the forks of a forklift under the HEATMOR™. It must be lifted from the top, by the lifting hook. A crane or heavy backhoe works best, although a heavy duty farm tractor is acceptable.
a) With a farm tractor, extreme care must be taken to prevent the HEATMOR™ from swinging and causing damage to the HEATMOR™.
Placing the HEATMOR™ on the Concrete Base
2) Before setting the HEATMOR™ onto the concrete base, it is a good idea to place a solid sheet of the proper “reflective air foil” (also called bubble foil) between the concrete and the HEATMOR™. This will absorb ridges in the concrete and make it easier to apply caulking around the inside perimeter of the base of the HEATMOR™. This reflective foil will also reflect Lift Hook
escaping heat up into the furnace, and help prevent air leaks into the firebox if
cement cracks.
3) Make sure the total area of the HEATMOR™ furnace is on solid concrete.
Do not let the HEATMOR™ extend past the hole in the concrete where the lines come in.
4) After the HEATMOR™ is in place perform the following;
Caulking around the Outside Perimeter of HEATMOR™
a) With a sharp knife, trim any excess bubble foil
that extends past the base of the HEATMOR™.
b) Apply a bead of caulking around the entire outside
perimeter of the HEATMOR™ to seal out rodents.
15
Filling the HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace Initially with Water
Before filling your HEATMOR™ furnace with water, all plumbing connections at the back of the HEATMOR™
furnace, all electrical hookups, and all heating appliances should be installed and tested for possible leaks.
HEATMOR™ suggests the use of brass fittings when installing the unit.
If you have any questions regarding installation of the furnace or any aspect of installation, contact your local
dealer.
Note: Never start a fire inside the firebox until the water jacket is full of water.
1) Close the bladder gate valve located at the front of the HEATMOR™ furnace. This valve will ensure no water can enter the bladder.
2) Close the bottom supply line valve at the back of the HEATMOR™.
3) Open the top return line valve at the back of the HEATMOR™.
4) Remove the weighted ball on the roof of the stove from the relief vent pipe.
5) Connect the water source to the return line leading to the HEATMOR™. Use a garden hose to add the water to the return line.
6) Turn on the source of water.
7) The pressured water will now flow through and remove the air out of the return line as the water flows into the HEATMOR™.
8) Continue adding water until water flows out the relief vent pipe, onto the roof of the HEATMOR™.
Rear of Furnace
9) Turn off the source of water.
The HEATMOR™ is now full of water and the return line is also full of water and air free, BUT the supply line leading from the HEATMOR™ to the building to be heated is still full of air.
10) Close the top return line valve at the back of the HEATMOR™.
11) Remove the garden hose that was used to deliver the source of water from the top return line, BUT leave the garden hose valve open.
12) Open the bottom supply line at the back of the HEATMOR™ (bottom). The pressure of the water in the HEATMOR™ will now force water from the HEATMOR™ through the supply line back into the building to be heated. This water will soon discharge from where the garden hose was connected. When there is a steady stream of water flowing, the air will be removed from that supply line. Usually it requires the removal of approximately five gallons of water to ensure the line is air-free.
NOTE: The circulator pumps cannot “push” much air through a system. They are designed to move water not air.
13) Start the circulating pump. Remember to properly bleed air from the pump.
16
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS REPAIR. DO NOT
PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
Maintaining the Correct Amount of Water in the Bladder and in the HEATMOR™
1) Close the bladder gate valve located at the front of the HEATMOR™ furnace. Closing this valve will ensure no water can enter the bladder.
2) Remove the weighted ball from the relief vent pipe.
3) Connect the water source to the return line leading to the HEATMOR™. Use a garden hose to add the water to the return line.
4) Turn on the source of water, but only about half a full flow.
5) The pressured water will now flow through the return line as the water flows into the HEATMOR™.
6) Continue adding water until water flows out the relief vent pipe, onto the roof of the HEATMOR™. Leave the water running. Some may continue to spill out onto the roof.
7) Place the weighted ball back onto the relief vent pipe.
8) Turn on the green bladder gate valve and let the bladder fill half full. You can check this by feeling the bladder with your hand inserted through the bladder inspection cover plate.
9) Turn off the water when the bladder is half full.
Low Water Condition
If the water level is below the bladder port when the water heats up, air will enter the bladder instead of water.
To remove the air from the bladder, follow steps 1 through 7 above and make sure there is a good seal on the
weighted ball. Next:
1) Open the bladder gate valve.
2) CAREFULLY remove the bladder hose, allowing the bladder to empty its contents.
3) After bladder is empty of air/water, re-attach the bladder hose to the bladder gate valve and tighten the hose clamp.
Next, follow steps 7-9 above.
NOTE: NEVER LIGHT A FIRE INSIDE THE FIREBOX UNTIL THE WATER JACKET IS FULL OF WATER.
Installation should be performed by a qualified installer and will comply with all
the requirements of the authority having jurisdiction over the installation.
READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE OPERATIONS AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING
YOUR HEATMOR STAINLESS STEEL OUTDOOR FURNACE.
17
CHAPTER 9
SAFE FURNACE OPERATION GUIDELINES
OPERATION
HEATMORTM OUTDOOR FURNACE 400-4S IS CERTIFIED TO BURN WOOD ONLY.
Proper personal protective equipment (PPE) is defined as leather gloves and safety glasses, when
working with chemical, wear rubber gloves and protective clothing. When working with electrical be
sure that the power source is disconnected and rubber soled shoes should be worn. Particle masks
are recommended when working with ashes. Wear clothing that will not catch on rough edges and that
are designated for “work”. Flame resistant clothing and face shields are recommended as well. Keep
hair and skin covered at all times.
Burning of other materials may result in serious burns, health consequences, or damage to this furnace and
other components of the heating system and may void warranty.
***IMPORTANT NOTICE***
PLEASE REFER TO “FILLING YOUR HEATMOR™ FURNACE WITH WOOD,” FOR ADDITIONAL SAFE
LOADING PROCEDURES.
1) Never open the firebox door if the combustion air blower is operating or if you suspect a roaring hot fire inside the firebox.
2) Never open firebox door immediately after the combustion air blowers have shut off. If the water temperature is very close to the high setting, you should assume the air combustion fans have
just shut off.
3) If there is more than a “wiff” of smoke coming from the chimney and the draft fan is off, do not open the firebox door for at least two minutes. The burn cycle would have just ended and the firebox will be full of unburned gases (smoke) that may ignite when fresh air is introduced.
4) Load the unit with wood carefully, but quickly. After loading wood make sure all debris is cleaned from the firebox doorframe and gasket. Then close firebox door securely.
5) Keep the firebox door, ash auger tube cover cap, top flue cover plate, and the outer door of the HEATMOR™ furnace closed at all times except for servicing and refueling.
6) Keep the locking handle on the outer door locked at all times when not servicing or refueling to reduce the risk of tampering and possible injury.
7) Never add water to the HEATMOR™ furnace if the internal water temperature is over 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Failure to adhere to this warning may cause a steam flash and result in an explosion.
18
8) Do not store combustible liquids or materials near the outdoor furnace. Adhere to the “Clearance to Combustibles” guidelines.
9) Never use gasoline, kerosene, charcoal, lighter fluid or similar liquids to start, re-start or freshen up a fire. Using such liquids may result in severe burns and injury.
10) When adding water, water treatment or maintaining the HEATMOR™ furnace, protective clothing must be worn at all times.
11) Never leave the HEATMOR™ furnace unattended while the firebox door is open or unlatched.
12) Stay clear of any smoke emitting from the firebox.
13) Do not burn garbage, tires, solvents, engine oil, gasoline, or other inappropriate materials.
14) Store ashes outside, in a metal container with a metal tight fitting lid, away from the outdoor furnace and other buildings. No other waste should be placed in this container.
15) Wear a particle mask when removing ashes.
16) Ash auger may be hot after removing ashes.
17) In case of power failure, do not open any doors on the HEATMOR™. Monitor the water temperature very closely. Refer to “freeze protection” in this manual.
18) In below freezing weather, if the water temperature in the HEATMOR™ drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, drain all water from the HEATMOR™ immediately (if there is no anti-freeze in your system).
19) Water additives supplied with a HEATMOR™ do not give any freeze protection.
20) Always remove the weighted pop off ball before removing more than 5 gallons of water from the HEATMOR™.
19
Lighting the HEATMOR™ for the First Time
When lighting the HEATMOR™ furnace for the first time, all installations must be complete and the furnace
must be full of water. It is recommended to open bladder valve, reinstall the pop-off ball, and then build fire to
bring the water up to temperature.
The lighting process is fairly simple. Please use the following steps simply as a guideline or contact your local
dealer for further instruction. Read the entire manual before lighting, so you have a complete working
knowledge of the furnace. Ask for a demonstration from your local dealer. It is very important to fully
educate all persons who will be lighting and fueling the HEATMOR™ furnace.
PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL “LIGHTING YOUR HEATMOR™” STEPS BEFORE LIGHTING
YOUR FURNACE.
1) Remove the weighted pop off ball from the relief vent pipe, on top of the HEATMOR™ furnace.
2) Close the green valve, supplying the bladder, located at the front of the stove.
3) Ensure that the furnace is full of water by running five gallons of water onto the roof of the HEATMOR™.
4) Ensure that there is 115-volt electrical power supplying the HEATMOR™ furnace.
5) Place some small pieces of wood (five pounds) with paper into the firebox.
6) Place a few larger pieces of wood (20 pounds) on top of the smaller pieces.
7) Light the fire.
8) Leave the fire box door partially open to allow the fire to start burning. The firebox door should only need to be open about two inches. At this point the smoke should go up the chimney and not out the firebox door.
9) Once the fire is burning rather briskly, close the fire box door and turn off the light switch which in turn will make the combustion air blower(s) operate.
10) Operate the blowers for approximately 10 minutes.
11) Turn off the blowers.
Wait a few seconds to allow the combustion to decrease.
12) Open the firebox door and add a substantial amount of wood to the firebox.
13) Turn on the blowers.
14) Securely close the firebox door and outer door.
NOTE: Before the furnace is fired up, the furnace is filled with water. While the furnace is filling with water, the
bladder is shut off to prevent excess water into the bladder, preventing over fill. When the furnace is freshly
filled the water temperature is approximately 50 degrees Fahrenheit. When the furnace is full of water you will
notice water coming out onto the roof from the relief vent pipe. At this point the water should be turned off and
the bladder valve opened. After the furnace is fired up, the water temperature will start to increase. While the
water temperature rises, the water will expand as it heats up, causing the excess water to go into the bladder.
It will go into the bladder because it is the place of least restriction. This is another reason why we do not fill
the bladder initially, too much water in the bladder at cooler temperatures could cause the bladder to overfill at
higher temperatures caused by the expansion of the water during temperature rise.
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DEW POINT
NOTE: As the temperature inside of the firebox is increasing, there will be some sweating inside the firebox.
There may be streams of water running down the inside firebox walls and down the inside of the firebox door.
Water may run out below the firebox door, out of the flue covers, and even out the ash cover plate. THE
HEATMOR™ IS NOT LEAKING!
Just as moisture collects on the inside of a warm house window on a cold outside day, the same thing is
occurring inside the HEATMOR firebox. The warm moisture in the smoke is condensing on the cold firebox
walls of the HEATMOR. In most typical situations, once the water temperature is above approximately 130
degrees Fahrenheit, the sweating will stop because you are above the dew point.
21
Loading Wood into the HEATMOR™
Please read through the entire HEATMOR™ Operation and Maintenance Manual and talk to your local dealer
for instruction. Ask for a demonstration from your local dealer. It is very important to fully educate all
those who will be loading the furnace with wood.
Loading a large amount of wood into the HEATMOR™ furnace once a day is not always best. We have found
that you have a more efficient fire and produce less smoke when you add fuel twice a day. Example: Half of
the days’ demand in the morning and half in the evening. The number of loadings and the amount of wood
needed will vary depending on the amount of heat being removed.
Here are some suggested points to assist you in loading your furnace.
1) Make sure you have your fuel readily available to fill your furnace. (ie. a wheelbarrow full of wood near the furnace)
2) Maintain a clear, clean area in front of the furnace.
3) Open the outer front door. This allows you access to the inner firebox door as well as activates the
Automatic Fan Switch. This allows air into the firebox to decrease the possibility of the exhaust igniting
and creating a “flash back” before you open the main firebox door.
4) Turn on the light switch. The light should turn on and the combustion air blowers should turn off if they were operating correctly.
5) Lift the secondary air wing handle and place it into the holding cradle. Then standing to the right,
next to the exterior door, with your left hand and your left arm outstretched, move the fire box door
handle out of the safety latch.
6) Crack the firebox door open about two inches and allow any pressure left over in the firebox to escape.
7) Open the firebox door as you step backwards towards the exterior door. This allows you to be out of the way if there is a “flash back” or exhaust exiting the door opening.
8) Set the firebox door handle into the holder provided on the outer door.
9) After all exhaust has been eliminated, give the ashes over the grates a light stirring with a long rake.
10) Add the necessary fuel to the firebox, being careful not to push ashes into the air boxes.
11) Close the firebox door and latch securely. Release the secondary air wing handle from the holding
cradle and let it rest all the way down.
12) Turn off the light switch. This will return power to the blowers and turn off the light.
13) Close and lock the exterior door.
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What should I burn?
This furnace is designed to burn well-seasoned cordwood ONLY.
Well seasoned wood is wood that has been properly prepared for combustion. Proper seasoning is generally
accepted to be wood that has been harvested, split if necessary, and stored for a reasonable amount of time.
The most efficient preparation will result in a wood moisture content of 17 percent to 25 percent. If the
moisture content is more than 30 percent a significant amount of recoverable heat will be utilized in “boiling”
off the water in the wood which escapes as steam. This loss will accelerate as the moisture content increases.
Wood that is too dry will combust too rapidly, thereby increasing heat and fuel loss out of the stack.
Our experience indicates that piece diameters of 6 to 8 inches or less are preferable. Larger pieces (up to 10
inch diameter) will perform well as long as they are properly seasoned. Fortunately, the combustion process
will “see” a mix so that larger/smaller and damper/drier wood combinations can still provide a good result.
Learn to load the furnace to most appropriately match the heat demand. Warmer outdoor temperatures
indicate a need for smaller loads and smaller pieces of wood, thereby matching demand to supply and
resulting in higher efficiencies. Being aware that your individual “Types of Wood” will aid in your decisions.
How does a fire burn out?
When the temperature of the water has reached its high limit (185 degrees Fahrenheit), the combustion air
blower(s) shut off. At this point, the fire “banks”. When the air combustion blower(s) turn back on, there may not
be enough coals to restart the fire. You will then need to restart the fire. If this situation occurs , you may want
to transfer to your standard system for better efficiency.
A new unit will require the establishment of “bed of coals” which will aid in re-establishing proper combustion.
This may take a few burn cycles.
Please refer to the “Outdoor Wood Furnace Best Burn Practices”
located on the inside front cover of this manual.
NOTE: To obtain the high efficiencies that the 400-4S is designed for, please follow these guide lines:
The moisture content of wood is very important. Trying to burn “wet” wood is wasteful and not
recommended. When you burn “wet” wood, the moisture must be driven out of the wood before it burns, so there is heat wasted on driving out this moisture.
We have tested our Heatmor 400-4S at a 100% heatload with 23% and 40% moisture content oak wood.
100% Heatload:
23% Moisture Content Wood = 77% Efficiency
40% Moisture Content Wood = 58% Efficiency
One cord of Oak has roughly 26.5 Million BTUs of Energy in it.
If you burn this cord of oak when it has 23% Moisture Content you will get roughly 20.4MBTUs of
energy. If you burn this cord of Oak when it has 40% Moisture Content you will get roughly
15.37MBTUs of energy.
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This means that roughly for every 5 cords of wood you burn at 40% Moisture Content you will waste 1 cord just because your wood was not dry. HEATMOR™ is dedicated to helping you burn
your wood cleaner, and more efficiently! We recommend burning wood with a moisture content range
of 17-25% in this furnace.
Types of Wood
There are different types of wood, classified by species, hard or soft, old or new, dry or damp, even larger
or smaller. All will burn satisfactorily as long as the proper moisture content and heat load combinations are
observed. Therefore, knowing your heat load demands and our fuel supply characteristics is very important.
Wood as a Fuel
Wood as a fuel contains more moisture than most heating fuels. Therefore, proper management of the process
is more important. Heat is required to evaporate the moisture from the fuel. Once moisture is evaporated,
proper control of the remainder of the combustion process is also required. At about 600 degrees Fahrenheit
the wood will gasify. At this point the fuel/air mixture is fuel rich. With proper “secondary air” introduction the
fuel/air mixture will approach ideal and result in proper combustion. Your Heatmor furnace is designed to create
this situation. Wood too high in moisture content results in lower temperatures and unreliable performance.
Stages of Combustion
During the four stages of combustion, wood breaks down into water, smoke and charcoal.
The first stage occurs when wood is placed in the furnace. It must be heated to drive off the moisture.
The higher the moisture content, the greater the amount of heat needed and subsequently lost for heating
purposes. The drier the wood, the more rapidly it can be heated and passed through this first stage of heating
the water. When moisture is being driven from the wood, white smoke may be emitted from the chimney. This
is what we call “steam smoke”. It is mostly water vapor.
In the second stage, at 500 degrees Fahrenheit, wood begins to break down chemically. If this smoke is
released but not burned, two-thirds of the energy in the wood will be lost. A hot fire is needed to burn the
smoke.
The third stage takes place at temperatures above 1100 degrees Fahrenheit. At this point, the smoke is
burning at 100 percent efficiency, as long as the proper amounts of oxygen, temperature and draft are present.
If one of these elements is missing, the combustion will be incomplete. The third stage is the most important
stage of wood combustion since smoke represents two-thirds of the wood heat.
The fourth stage takes place after 1100 degrees Fahrenheit to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit temperatures have
been reached. The smoke and gases are completely burned and the charcoal remains, which represents
approximately one-third of the wood heat, and allows the fire to re-start when required.
When a new charge of wood is loaded, the first stage of combustion begins again. The charcoal heats the
fresh wood until it gets hot enough to react and ignite, and the process continues. All four stages can take
place concurrently but complete combustion requires proper placement of secondary air and adequate
temperatures. This is incorporated in the design of the Heatmor furnace.
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Efficiency Measurements
There are different ways of expressing efficiency and to correctly compare values.
Combustion Efficiency - Input Based
The amount of fuel that is completely burned compared to the total amount available for combustion expressed
as a percentage.
For example:
An open bonfire; 100 pounds of wood burns and produces three pounds of ash, which equals 97 percent combustion efficiency. Good combustion efficiency but poor heating efficiency. No heat got into the house.
Heating Efficiency - Output Based
The percentage of the heat produced that was actually absorbed into the water and transferred into the house
from the HeatmorTM.
Net Efficiency
This is the product of the combustion and heating efficiencies. Ninety percent combustion efficiency times 60
percent heating efficiency results in a 54 percent net efficiency.
Loading Of The Furnace
Loading the furnace relative to the heat load will result if more efficient performance. More nearly matching
your fuel load to the current temperature conditions for an 8 to 12 hour burn will result in longer burn cycles,
higher overall burn temperatures and more efficient performance. Your furnace has been rated for an 8 hour
burn cycle.
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Handling and Storage of Wood
Common questions concerning wood storage.
1)
Q. Do I have to keep my wood covered?
A. It can be more convenient. It is an extra task if snow has to be knocked off the wood before it is loaded into the firebox. Rain and snow landing on the exposed wood will tend to add a certain amount of moisture to the wood. Refer to “first stage of the burning process.” Uncovered wood will still burn.
2)
Q. Why is it important to have my loading of wood directly at the furnace when I go to load my furnace? Why must I load my furnace quickly?
A. Because of the large firebox and large firebox door, it often only takes a few minutes after opening the door, until the unburned wood in the firebox will ignite and cause smoke to come out the loading door.
3)
Q. Is it a good idea to put the front of my HEATMOR™ into my wood storage building so I can load the HEATMOR™ from inside?
A. This is never a good idea. The HEATMOR™, is designed to be placed outside away from all buildings to maintain optimum safety. Refer to the “Clearance to Combustibles” section.
4)
Q. What is the best method of handling wood?
A. Handle wood as little as possible. Keep the wood covered. Keep the wood storage area
neat and tidy. If you have a tractor that can lift pallets or crates, you are well on your way to solving all three concerns. Have available approximately 20 crates (5 feet square x 5 feet high). Take the crates to where you are cutting the wood with the tractor. As you cut, pile the wood in the crates. Use the tractor to move and store the full crates not too far from the HEATMOR™.
Cover them if you wish. Use the tractor to bring the crates to the front of the HEATMOR™, as you need them. Throw the wood into the firebox.
5)
Q. What is seasoned wood and how long should I season my wood?
A. Seasoned wood is wood that is cut and then stored for a certain amount of time prior to use. We recommend seasoning hardwoods for one to two years and softwoods six months to one and a half hears. Ideal moisture content of seasoned wood is 17 - 25 percent.
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CHAPTER 10
WATER
Qualities of Water to Use
Water quality will vary from one location to another. Different qualities of water can have a damaging effect on
your HEATMOR™ furnace, pumps, and plumbing components. Please observe the following guidelines for
best results.
•
•
•
•
•
•
Do not add water from ponds or off roofs.
Do not add water exceeding 50 parts per million (ppm) in chlorides.
Do not add water over 27 grains hardness - mix this water 50/50 with softened water.
Do not add water exceeding 50 ppm silica content.
Do not add water from shallow wells.
Do not add water from a well that has recently been “shocked” with chlorine.
Water Level Maintenance
You can verify the water level of your HEATMOR™ by checking the fullness of the bladder. The best method of
gauging the fullness of the bladder is to reach up and feel the bladder. The bladder should still have wrinkles
in it when the water temperature is 180 degrees Fahrenheit. If the filling procedures were done correctly, the
bladder would have been the last thing topped up after the water jacket of your HEATMOR™. Refer to “Filling
your Furnace Initially” for further details or contact your local dealer.
Removal/Replacement of System Water
Before removing more than five gallons of water from your HEATMOR™, make certain to remove the weighted
pop off ball so that air can enter the water jacket as water leaves. Failure to do so may put a negative pressure
on the water jacket and collapse it. Warranty does not cover this.
If a sediment faucet was installed at the back of furnace, it may be used for draining purposes. If you have a
sediment faucet installed on the main manifold in the house, that also can be used to drain the HEATMOR™.
The drained contents of the HEATMOR™ must be discharged to an area or place where they will not
damage property or create an environmental hazard. If you are draining the system because of total
system shutdown in cold weather, remember to also drain the supply and return lines to prevent
freeze-up.
To refill your HEATMOR™, refer to “Filling your Furnace Initially.” It is important to add water treatment to the
HEATMOR™ once you have refilled your HEATMOR™. For further information on replacing the water in your
furnace, contact your local dealer.
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Water Additives
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS REPAIR. DO NOT
PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
Principles of Water Treatment
1) Minimize the corrosion potential of system metallurgy.
2) Keep water in the 8 to 10 pH range.
3) Acts as an oxygen scavenger.
4) Water treatment supplied with the HEATMOR™ does not give any freeze protection.
5) With proper chemical control, longer equipment life can be achieved.
Addition of Water Treatment
When installing a completely new system, we recommend that the system first be filled with water only. After
two or three days of operation, check that all air is out of the system, and all connections are leak free. Once the
entire system is confirmed to be leak free, add the water treatment.
To add water treatment to the HEATMOR™ furnace, follow these steps.
1) Before adding the treatment, drain out a corresponding amount of water.
2) Remove the weighted pop off ball from the relief vent pipe.
3) Take a funnel and place it into the relief vent pipe.
4) Pour the entire contents of the water treatment chemical, as supplied, into the HEATMOR™ furnace.
5) Top up your HEATMOR™ furnace with water and fill the bladder. Refer to “Filling the Bladder Initially” for details or contact your local dealer.
Water Treatment Maintenance / Result
The water in the HEATMOR™ should be chemically analyzed once per year to ensure the proper levels of
treatment are being maintained. Contact your local dealer as to where to have your water tested. Provide the
testing person with an amount of water from your HEATMOR™, equal to approximately 20 ounces, in a clean
container. The amount of water treatment that has to be added yearly is dependent on how much fresh water
you have added to your system since the last test. Be certain to add a water treatment that is approved by your
dealer and HEATMOR™ Inc.
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Water Treatment Additives and Safety Specifications
Water Treatment Safety Specifications
DANGER: CORROSIVE MATERIAL - CAUSES BURNS
CAUTION: KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN
Product Identification: Control Water Stove Treatment and Rust Inhibitor
Product Manufacturer: Image Supply Inc.
Contents: Sodium Nitrate
Potassium Hydroxide
Hidacid Azure Blue Dye
Water
Danger:
Harmful or fatal if swallowed. Avoid skin, clothing and eye contact
Avoid breathing mist or vapors
Keep container closed and away from children
First Aid:
Skin Contact: Immediately flush skin with plenty of water. Remove contaminated
clothing and shoes. Wash clothing before reuse. Call a physician if irratation develops
and persists.
Eye Contact: Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes.
Inhalation: Move to fresh air.
Ingestion: Harmful or fatel if swallowed. Give several glasses of water followed by citrus
juice then olive oil. Get medical attention.
NEVER GIVE ANYTHING BY MOUTH TO AN UNCONSCIOUS PERSON
Handling instructions:Wear eye/face protection. Wear goggles and Alkali resistant gloves. Wear
suitable protective clothing.
Clean up: Contain and/or absorb spill with inert material(e.g. sand, vermiculite), then place in a suitable
container. Do not flush to sewer or allow to enter waterways. Use appropriate Personal Protective
Equipment. Neutralize area with vinegar. Wash contaminated clothing before reuse.
Other precautions: Do not leave unattended when open.
Do not reuse container.
This product does not provide any freeze protection.
FOR MEDICAL EMERGENCIES CALL
United States: INFOTRAC 1-800-535-5053
Canada: 1-800-268-9017
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Freeze Protection
Principles of Freeze Protection
When the total system is operating as designed, there is no need to add anti-freeze. However if the water in
the outdoor furnace is not going to be kept above 50 degrees Fahrenheit in cold weather, freeze protection
must be considered. In a properly designed system, the indoor appliances will automatically
come on, generate heat, and keep the supply line, return line, and outdoor furnace
from freezing by transferring some of the heat generated, back to the outdoor furnace.
This will only happen if the circulating pumps are running. It is recommended to always have a backup
system in place.
• Freeze protection products have lower heat transfer capabilities than water.
• Freeze protection products will not necessarily inhibit corrosion.
• Some insurance companies will not insure an outdoor furnace with glycol in the system.
• Ensure the correct freeze protection product is used. Non-toxic, propylene glycol based, boiler antifreeze is recommended. One such product is DOWFROST HD™ from Dow Chemicals.
Before draining the water, please refer to “Removal/Replacement of System Water”.
When installing a completely new system, we recommend that the system first be filled with water only. After
two or three days of operation, check that all air is out of the system, and all connections are leak free. Once the
entire system is confirmed to be leak free, add the water treatment and/or freeze protection. Before adding the
treatment, drain out a corresponding amount of water.
Adding Freeze Protection Products
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS REPAIR. DO NOT
PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
1) Remove the weighted pop off ball.
2) Drain the correct amount of water from the system for the products being added.
3) Take a funnel and place it into the relief vent pipe.
4) Pour the contents of the freeze protection products, into the HEATMOR™ furnace.
Do not pressurize the HEATMOR™; do not attempt to thread fittings onto the relief vent pipe and “pump” additives into the HEATMOR™ under pressure.
5) Top off your furnace with water and fill your bladder. Refer to “Filling the Bladder Initially” for details or contact your local dealer.
30
CHAPTER 11
BLADDER ASSEMBLY
Principles
It is best not to have the system water, that is in the water jacket, exposed to the atmosphere. This is because
of system water loss through evaporation. When system water is lost, it must be replenished or soon the
water jacket would be empty. Not only is replenishing lost system water a nuisance, it is also accelerating
the corrosion process throughout the total system, because adding fresh system water is also adding more
corrosion causing minerals.
The challenge is to maintain an airtight system, while at the same time, allowing for the expansion and
contraction of system water as it warms and cools. This is accomplished in a HEATMOR™ design through the
use of a weighed pop off valve and a flexible bladder.
Bladder
Principle of the Bladder
The HEATMOR™ is designed to be a semi-closed system, with a
maximum of pressure buildup (3 psi).
The bladder is a reservoir that accepts the increased volume of water
that results when the water within the water jacket expands as it is
heated. Similarly, when the water within the water jacket cools down,
water is drawn out of the bladder.
Operation of the Bladder
The bladder has a capacity of approximately 25 gallons. Normally, the
bladder should be approximately ¾ full when the water temperature
is at the high water temperature set point. As the furnace cycles, the
water temperature drops 20 degrees Fahrenheit, approximately three
gallons of water will flow from the bladder. If at any time the furnace is
requiring additional water it will use the reserve water in the bladder
before having to be topped up. Note: The pillow bladder black fitting
is a left handed thread.
Bladder
Filling the Bladder with Water
You should not need to fill your bladder with water. Under normal operating conditions your bladder should fill
with water and release water as needed for expansion and contraction.
Maintenance / Result
To maintain your furnace bladder simply keep the bladder half full of water so the bladder continues to supply
the water jacket with water. If the water level does run low, the possibilities of water boiling and firebox warping
are increased.
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Removal and Replacement of the Bladder
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS REPAIR. DO NOT
PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
1) Turn off the (green) bladder gate valve located at the front of the HEATMOR™ furnace to the left of the thermometer.
2) Remove the hose clamp from the bladder gate valve.
3) Pull the bladder hose away from the bladder gate valve and let the water drain from the bladder. Be careful, it could be warm.
4) Carefully remove the old bladder and install the new bladder. This
can be done in two ways, you can either pull the bladder down
and replace it from inside of the unit or you can remove the 4 roof
screws and slightly elevate your roof and remove the top panel to have
a clearaccess to the bladder.
5) Note: the black fitting on the bladder is a left handed thread.
6) Open the bladder gate valve and follow the “Filling the Bladder
with Water” instructions.
Bladder Gate Valve and Bladder Hose
Bladder Gate Valve
Principle of the Bladder Gate Valve and Bladder Hose
The bladder gate valve provides water flow control in maintaining the bladder and filling the furnace with water.
The bladder hose provides a means for the water to freely flow from the water jacket to the bladder allowing
expansion and contraction.
WHEN THE HEATMOR™ FURNACE IS OPERATING,
THE BLADDER GATE VALVE MUST BE OPEN.
Maintenance / Result
To maintain the bladder gate valve, open and close the valve periodically to prevent it from seizing. Ensure that
the hose clamp is tightly fastened, securing the bladder hose to the bladder and to the bladder gate valve.
Removal and Replacement
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS REPAIR. DO NOT
PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
1) Turn off the power to the furnace.
2) Drain some of the water from the furnace to prevent water from draining while you are
replacing the valve.
3) Loosen the hose clamp holding the bladder hose to the bladder gate valve.
4) Remove the bladder hose from the bladder gate valve and let the water drain from the bladder.
32
Bladder Gate Valve and Bladder Hose (cont.)
33
5) Remove the old bladder gate valve and install the new bladder gate valve.
6) Attach the bladder hose to the bladder gate valve and tighten the hose clamp.
7) Keeping the bladder gate valve closed, add water until furnace is full.
8) Open the bladder gate valve and follow the “Filling the Bladder with Water” instructions.
9) Turn on the power to the furnace.
CHAPTER 12
WATER JACKET
Principles of the Water Jacket
Water within the water jacket absorbs heat produced in the firebox. The heated water is used to transfer
heat from the HEATMOR™ into the building needing heat. The water jacket and the firebox are one welded
component and can be replaced.
Maintenance
Keep the proper concentration of water treatment in the water.
Supply Line and Return Line Threaded Connectors
Principles
The HEATMOR™ furnace is designed to draw the supply (hot) water from the bottom of the water jacket. This
may seem irregular (people know hot water rises), but this method mixes the water in the water jacket better
and often extends pump life. The return (cooler) water connects to the, upper, rear spud of the HEATMOR™.
A circulator (pump) moves the water at approximately three to 10 gallons per minute, through both lines under
very little pressure (3 psi). Always attach a BRASS fitting into the STAINLESS STEEL spud to prevent
galvanic corrosion.
Relief Vent Pipe and Weighted Pop off Ball
Principles
The relief vent pipe is connected to the top of the water jacket. The
weighted pop off ball sits into the relief vent pipe, putting a pressure
restriction on the total water jacket. When the water within the water
jacket is heated it expands. Because of the restriction of the weighted
ball on the relief vent pipe, the water will expand into the bladder,
instead of out onto the roof. Any time there is a build up of more than
two to three psi, the weighted pop off ball will lift up and release the
pressure, maintaining a completely safe situation.
Relief Vent Pipe and
Weighted Pop Off Ball
The weighted pop off ball should always be on the relief vent pipe during normal operation
of the HEATMOR™ furnace. DO NOT permanently obstruct the relief vent pipe. This could
cause water jacket or firebox damage if pressure builds.
34
CHAPTER 13
FIREBOX AND OTHER COMPONENTS
Firebox
Principles of the Firebox
Wood is burned inside the firebox to generate heat. This heat is absorbed into the water
in the water jacket. The firebox and water jacket are one welded component and can be
replaced. When the water is up to temperature and the combustion air blowers are off, the
firebox must be airtight.
Operation of the Firebox
Temperatures within the firebox can reach 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. Smoke exits from the
firebox into the flue. During normal operation, there will be a slight buildup
of black creosote on the firebox walls. This buildup will sometimes appear flaky.
Maintenance / Result
Wood should not be thrown into the firebox in a rough manner. Creosote should never
have to be scraped off the firebox walls.
Secondary Air Wing
Firebox (secondary air
wing in down position)
Principles of the Secondary Air Wing
As wood is burned inside the firebox the location of the wood changes. The secondary air wing allows air to
enter the firebox in the right location in relation to the wood for a cleaner and hotter burn.
Operation of the Secondary Air Wing
The secondary air wing works on a hinge design with a cable and pulley system to the handle to the front of
the furnace. If the secondary air wing will not release when the handle is released, it may be stuck and can
be released with a push or a pull to it, do not touch the secondary air wing directly, poke it with a long metal
handle. Do not drop the secondary air wing roughly, it could disturb the wood or the fire below. Wood should
be loaded towards the front of the firebox so that the secondary air wing can move correctly.
Maintenance / Result
Wood should not be loaded above the secondary air wing. The tips of the
secondary air wing may deform but should not affect the main function of the
design.
Removal and Replacement
1) Remove all wood and let the unit cool down.
2) Disconnect main power.
3) Disconnect the back of the secondary air wing from the
cable/pulley system.
4) Remove the secondary air wing from the top of the airbox by lifting
it out. Replace the secondary air wing with a new one.
5) Reverse the above.
Secondary Air Wing Handle (to the
left of the firebox door)
35
FIREBOX AND OTHER COMPONENTS continued
Firebox and Flue Thermocouples
Principles of the Firebox and Flue Thermocouples
The electronic controller reads the firedoor thermocouple and 4 firebox top thermocouples to determine the
best mix of air flow and velocity of air required for the cleanest, most efficienct burn.
Operation of the Firebox and Flue Thermocouples
When a thermocouple has malfuctioned, the electronic
controller at the back of the furnace will flash a screen
that looks like -------------------------------------------------------->
Maintenance / Result
Wood should not be thrown into the firebox in a rough
manner. The thermocouples can become dislodged or
damaged. Take care with the thermocouple located in
the firedoor as well.
Removal and Replacement
1) Remove all wood and let the unit cool down.
2) Disconnect main power.
3) Locate the damaged thermocouple connection
at the thermocouple module and disconnect it.
4) Remove the thermocouple from the firebox
and replace it
5) Reverse the above.
Thermocouple Error Screen on Controller
Firebox Thermocouple Locations
Firebox door thermocouple
36
Firebox Door
Principles of the Firebox Door
The firebox door is water cooled to prevent warping of the door.
It also acts like a water jacket, absorbing heat from the fire, and
placing that energy into the water. Being water cooled, the front
of the firebox door will never be hotter than the water. The cold
outside atmospheric air is drawn over the warm surface of the
firebox door, by the combustion blowers, which is then warmed and
forced into the firebox as warmed combustion air. This lessens the
time needed for the interior of the firebox to reach that high smoke
burning temperature. It is important that the firebox door seal
maintains an airtight seal.
Operation of the Firebox Door
Water from the main waterjacket flows in a loop between the
firebox door and the waterjacket by natural thermal siphoning.
Since there is no pump involved, there is very little pressure.
During this process, the water cools the door and the water in
the door is heated.
Firebox Door Handle
Refer to Safe Operating Guidelines for further instructions on how to safely open
and close the firebox door or contact your local dealer.
Maintenance / Result
A properly adjusted firebox door will not allow smoke to enter or escape the firebox. Maintain a tight
seal all around the perimeter of the firebox door at all times. There may be times when the perimeter of the
firebox door will build up with “creosote strings,” especially along the bottom.
To keep the perimeter clean, occasionally scrape down to the steel. Do not cut, scrape or disturb the actual
soft, pliable seal. Keep the door correctly adjusted on the hinges so that the pliable seal is being forced against
the firebox ledge. Keep all nuts and bolts on the handle, latch and hinges properly adjusted.
The seal itself consists of a rope in the groove of the firebox door, covered with high temperature silicone.
Failure to manage and maintain the firebox door could result in premature replacement of parts and a buildup
of creosote.
(When replacing the Firebox Door, it is recommended to replace the Door Hoses at this time.)
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS REPAIR. DO NOT
PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
Removal and Replacement
To remove the firebox door, follow these steps:
1) Turn off power to the combustion air blowers.
2) Ensure that the fire in the firebox is extinguished.
3) Open the firebox door
37
4) Stop the flow of water from the water jacket through the door hoses by pinching the two door hoses shut. Make a collar of cardboard between the jaws of two pairs of vice-grips and clamp the door hoses tight at the center point of their length.
5) Loosen the hose clamps and remove the door hoses from the firebox door.
6) Lift the door off the hinges.
7) Remove the handle from the firebox door.
To replace the firebox door, follow these steps:
1) Replace the handle onto the new door just as it was removed.
2) Hang the firebox door on the hinges.
Note: Ensure there is a tight seal around the firebox door frame while it is closed and latched shut. The
firebox door must remain parallel with the door frame.
3) Close the firebox door and if needed adjust the firedoor handle bolts to ensure a tight seal.
4) Re-attach the door hoses, tighten the hose clamps, and unclamp the vice-grips.
5) Light a fire in the firebox; then ensure that there are no air leaks. You will be able to detect them by noticing smoke escaping through any air leaks, while the blowers are running.
38
Firebox Door Hoses and Elbows
Principle of the Door Hoses
The door hoses allow water to circulate between the firebox door and
the water jacket. The door hoses and elbows on the 400-4S are 1”.
Operation of the Door Hoses
The door hoses allow water from the water jacket to pass through the
firebox door, through thermal siphoning. Refer to “Firebox Door” for
further details.
Maintenance / Result
Maintaining the door hoses and elbows ensures that water is able to
flow through the door. Build-up (calcium) in the elbows is possible over
time, which slowly reduces the water flow through the door. If water
does not flow freely through the hoses to the firebox door, you may hear
popping sounds in the door. Once the hoses are around five years old
or if they show signs of wear, they should be replaced. Replacement of
hoses or cleaning of the elbows is always easier if the water is cool rather
than hot. To clean the elbows, remove the hoses and use a pipe cleaning
brush to clear out the build-up.
Door Hose
Elbow
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. DO NOT PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT
WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT WHEN WORKING
WITH WATER AND CHEMICALS.
Removal and Replacement
To remove and replace the door hoses, use the following steps:
1) Turn off power to the air combustion blowers.
2) Ensure that the fire in the firebox is extinguished, which will allow the water to cool.
3) With hose clamps or vice-grips, pinch the door hoses in the middle of the hose.
4) Before removing the old door hose, cut the new pieces of door hose, one at 25 inches and the other at 26 inches. These measurements are critical.
5) Pinch the new door hose in the middle of the hose, creating a tight seal.
6) Loosen the hose clamps on each end of the door hose.
Clamping hose
7) Remove the first end of the door hose needing replacement.
8) Push on the end of the new door hose and repeat the steps for the opposite end of the hose.
9) Tighten the hose clamps, securely fastening the door hose to the nipple on the furnace or firebox door.
10) Remove the vice-grips pinching the door hoses. This will allow water to flow through.
39
11) Check for leaks.
12) Repeat the steps to change additional door hoses.
Removal and Replacement
To remove and replace the elbows, use the following steps:
1) Turn off power to the air combustion blowers.
2) Ensure that the fire in the firebox is extinguished, which will allow the water to cool.
3) With hose clamps or vice-grips, pinch each door hose in the middle of the hose, creating a tight seal.
4) Loosen the hose clamps on each elbow.
5) Remove each of the door hoses from the elbows.
6) Using a wrench, unscrew each of the door elbows, note how the elbows are angled.
7) Replace the door elbows using pipe compound and a wrench. Ensure the elbows are secure and angled correctly so the hoses will slide on easily.
8) Push the door hoses onto the new elbows.
9) Tighten the hose clamps on each top and bottom hose, securely fastening the door hose to the elbow.
10) Remove the vice-grips pinching the door hoses. This will allow water to flow through hoses.
11) Check for leaks.
Firebox Door Handle
Principles of the Firebox Door Handle
Fastened to the firebox door, the handle provides a secure method of
controlling the opening and closing of the firebox door. By opening the
firebox door, (only until the door handle hits the second stage of the
safety latch), gives a space for fresh air to enter the firebox without the
risk of a “flash back.” The firebox door handle is also designed to “stick”
to the firebox door handle holder on the outer door. This procedure
prevents either of the doors closing while the HeatmorTM is being loaded
with wood.
Maintenance / Result
To maintain the door handle, ensure the handle closes and opens
fairly easily. If the handle closes too hard, it will be hard to open and
Firebox Door Handle
close the door. If the closure is too loose, it will be harder to obtain
a
perfect seal around the door. If you do not have a firm seal, you could
potentially create an air leak resulting in further complications. Refer to “Air Leaks” for further details or contact
your local dealer. You can adjust the two bolts on the latch for correct closure.
Removal and Replacement
To remove the handle, use the following steps.
1) Turn off power to the blowers.
2) Ensure the fire in the firebox is extinguished.
3) Loosen and remove the nut on the bearing and the nut on the mounting plate.
4) Replace the handle
5) Replace and tighten the nut on the bearing and the nut on the mounting plate.
40
Firebox Door Hinge
Principle of the Firebox Door Hinge
Supports the firebox doors.
Maintenance / Result
Secure and stable, the hinge allows the firebox door to swing free and
smooth.
Firebox Door Latch
Firebox Door Hinge
Principles of the Firebox Door Latch
The safety latch is designed to provide additional safety by preventing
the firebox door from opening too quickly, potentially allowing a
“flashback.” The latch is adjustable and replaceable.
Maintenance/result
The latch is adjustable with the two bolts. The two bolts must be
tightened firmly. When properly adjusted, the firebox door handle will
close and open with ease and create a perfect seal around the door.
Firebox Door Magnet
Firebox Door Magnet
Principles of the Firebox Door Magnet
The firebox door magnet provides a means of holding both the outer front door and the firebox door completely
open while the operator is loading wood into the HEATMOR™.
Operation
1) Open the firebox door as you step backwards towards the exterior door. This allows
you to be out of the way if there is a “flash back” or smoke exiting the door opening.
2) Stick the firebox door handle onto the firebox door handle magnet provided on the outer door.
3) To remove the firebox door from the magnet, turn the handle to the left and pull the inner door
away by the handle.
Firebox Door Gasket and Insulation
Principles of the Firebox Door Gasket and Insulation
The firebox door gasket creates an airtight seal between the firebox
door frame and the firebox door. It is a pliable seal that can be
removed and replaced if damaged or worn. The insulation is to keep the
firebox hot yet still allow some heat transfer to the water in the door.
Maintenance/Result
Do not cut, scrape or disturb the pliable seal or the insulation. Keep all nuts
and bolts on the handle, and latch properly adjusted to ensure the pliable
seal is being forced against the firebox door frame
41
Firebox Door Gasket
The seal itself consists of a fiberglass rope in the groove of the firebox door, covered with high temperature
silicone.
Failure to manage and maintain the firebox door gasket could result in air entering into the firebox when the
combustion air fans are off or smoke escaping around the seal when the combustion air blowers are running.
Air entering the firebox when the fans are off results in the wood continuing to smolder, resulting in the furnace
overheating and more than a “wiff” of smoke emitting from the chimney. Often, this type of smoke has an
unpleasant odor. Creosote will also be formed.
When the fans are running and the door seal is not sealing tightly, smoke will be forced through the leaking
door seal. This causes the front of the furnace to be smoke filled and soon the front of the firebox will be
covered with soot. Premature replacement of parts and a buildup of creosote will result.
Removal and Replacement of the Firebox Door Gasket
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. DO NOT PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT
WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
1) Using a sharp knife, carefully cut away the silicone seal around the firebox door seal channel.
2) Remove the old gasket from underneath the old silicone.
3) Remove all old silicone with a wire wheel or steel brush.
4) Replace with a single length of new gasket material. Do not pack or over stretch the new gasket. Once in place allow, the material to “relax” before cutting to length.
5) Cover the door rope with silicone and tool to a smooth, flat, finish.
6) Leave the firebox door open for 24 hours to allow silicone to dry completely.
NOTE: You will need 88 inches of 1 inch door rope material plus two tubes of caulking. The door rope kit is
available from your HEATMOR™ dealer.
Removal and Replacement of the Firebox Door Insulation
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. DO NOT PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT
WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
1) Remove the old insulation from the firebox door. Be careful not to disturb the location of the firedoor
thermocouple.
2) Remove the firedoor thermocouple.
3) Carefully slide the new insulation into place on the firebox door.
4) Carefully replace the firedoor thermocouple through the door and insulation.
42
Firebox Door Frame
Principles of the Firebox Door Frame
To provide a small edge that will seal into the firedoor
gasket to provide an airtight seal.
Maintenance / result
Keep the door frame cleaned down to the steel at all times. Failure to do
so results in a build up of creosote, resulting in a barrier to an airtight seal,
air leaks and premature gasket replacement.
Ceramic
Principles of the Ceramic
Once heated, the ceramic holds heat for a long period of time. This
creates a warm firebox between cycles. Because of this heat, when the
Firebox Door Frame
combustion air blower starts, the fire inside the firebox can re-ignite and reach the smoke burning temperature
of 1100 degrees Fahrenheit much faster.
Maintenance/Result
Wood should not be thrown into the firebox in a rough manner. Do not scrape the ceramic as the ceramic can
become dislodged, damaged or break. If ceramic pieces are broken, they should be replaced as soon as
possible.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. DO NOT PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT
WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
Removal and Replacement
1) Let the fire go out and allow the ashes to cool completely.
Remove the ashes from the firebox.
2) Crawl into the firebox if you can not reach the damaged
ceramic.
3) Remove the nut holding the broken ceramic.
4) Using a pry-bar if needed, remove the broken ceramic.
5) Replace the broken ceramic and replace the nut.
Ceramic
43
Standard Grates and Insulation
Principles of the Standard Grates and Insulation
Grates allow combustion air from the combustion air blowers to
pass from below the grates, up through the grates, through a
shallow depth of ashes and then to the bottom of the burning fire.
This way the ashes will burn completely into a fine powder that will
flow through the grates into the ash pit. Because air is being forced through the
ashes, the glowing embers will be more apt to ignite and set the wood ablaze.
The insulation keeps heat in the firebox and acts as a spacer for the grates.
Maintenance/Result
1) Never make the slots in the grates wider than factory dimensions. If
hot coals can pass through the grates, warping of the grates may result.
Standard Grates
2) Make sure the grates are always resting in the grooves of the ash
pit. If the grates move out of place, it may result in hot coals slipping
under the grates causing warpage of the grates.
3) Make sure the narrow side of the slot is next to the fire.
4) Replace broken grates immediately or a chain reaction of broken grates may result.
5) The grates will not break under reasonable knocks of heavy wood.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. DO NOT PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT
WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
Removal and Replacement
1) Allow the ashes to burn completely and extinguish.
2) Push the ashes to the back of the firebox or remove all the
ashes from the firebox.
3) Run a small prybar around the perimeter of the grate and the
edge of the ash pit to loosen the grate.
4) Lift out the broken grate.
5) Replace the insulation by which the new grate will sit if
needed.
6) Install the new grate. Make sure to install the new grate with
the narrow width of the slot towards the fire.
Half Grate
Note: There are 4 full grates and one half grate in the model 400-4S. The insulation is 1” lined on each side of
the grates.
44
Grate Plate
Principles of the Grate Plate
Grates allow combustion air from the combustion air blowers to
pass from below the grates, up through the grates, through a
shallow depth of ashes and then to the bottom of the burning fire.
The grate plate is designed for the optimum amount of under grate air for
the most efficient fire.
Maintenance/Result
1) Leaving the grate plate in place is effective for the principle
outlined above.
2) Make sure the grate plate is always resting at the bottom of the
firebox on top of the grates. 4) Replace a warped grate plate immediately or non-efficient fire
may result.
5) The grate plate will not break under reasonable knocks of heavy wood.
Grate Plate
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER PERSONAL
PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
Removal and Replacement
1) Allow the ashes to burn completely and extinguish.
2) Remove all the ashes from the firebox.
3) Run a small prybar under the grate plate to loosen the grate plate.
4) Lift out the grate plate.
5) Clean the top of the grates in which the new grate plate will sit.
6) Install the new grate plate.
45
Flash Curtain / Heat Shield
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER PERSONAL
PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
Principles of the Flash Curtain / Heat Shield
The purpose of the flash curtain is to decrease the amount of
smoke emitted from the door when loading wood into the firebox.
The flash curtain decreases the size of the firebox opening,
making that size more in proportion to the area the natural draft
of the chimney will draw from. As a heat shield, the flash curtain
restricts the amount of direct heat that contacts the firebox door
directly.
Maintenance/Result
Leaving the flash curtain in place is effective for the principles
outlined above.
Flash Curtain
Removal and Replacement
1) The plate is slotted at the top and fits loosely onto two hooks, installed above the firebox door opening.
2) With the ashes cooled down, lift up on the plate
until it releases itself from the hooks.
Proper placement of Flash Curtain
46
CHAPTER 14
AIR SUPPLY
Maximum draft should not exceed 0.20 inches water column, if exceeded could cause solid fuel fire to burn out
of control.
Combustion Air Blower, Solenoid and Flipper
THE FLIPPER AND SOLENOID MUST OPERATE PERFECTLY OR PROBLEMS QUICKLY ARISE.
Principles
The combustion air blower, solenoid and flipper supply air for combustion inside the firebox. The solenoid
and flipper keep air out of the firebox when combustion is not needed. These components are removable and
serviceable.
Operation of the Combustion Air Blower
-When the water temperature reaches the high water temperature setting, the controller will turn the blower
off and using the solenoid it will close the flipper which will prevent
air from getting into the firebox.
-When the water temperature reaches the low water temperature
setting, the controller will turn the blower on and using the solenoid
it will open the flipper and force air into the firebox.
-The flipper must completely open and close all of the time.
When it is closed, it must seal completely. If more than a “wiff” of
smoke is coming from the chimney when the blower has been off
for approximately 10 minutes, this is a strong indication that the
flipper is not shutting properly.
Maintenance/Result
-Clean the fan blades monthly
-Ensure that the solenoid is up when the fan is on and
not restricted in any way
Steps to maintain your combustion air blower
1) Turn off the main power supply to the furnace.
Combustion Air Blower
2) With a small brush, scrape any dust or residue that has
accumulated on the fins of the blower.
Removal and Replacement of the combustion air blower
1) Turn off the main power supply to the furnace.
2) Loosen and remove the four screws securing the blower to
the air tube.
3) Disconnect the electrical wires.
4) Attach the new blower to the air tube with the four screws
6) Rewire the electrical wire to the blower. Contact a licensed
electrician if you have any questions.
Solenoid (above the fan)
47
Removal and Replacement of the solenoid
1) Turn off the main power supply to the furnace.
2) Loosen and remove two self tapping screws securing the solenoid assembly to the air tube bracket.
3) Disconnect the electrical harness from the solenoid.
4) Attach the new solenoid to the air tube bracket by the same two self tapping screws from step 2
above.
5) Attach the new solenoid electrical harness. Contact a licensed electrician if you have any
questions.
THE SOLENOID MUST OPERATE PERFECTLY OR PROBLEMS QUICKLY ARISE.
If the solenoid is unable to open and close the flipper freely, or remains partially open or partially closed, the
furnace will starve for air resulting in a smoldering fire instead of an intense fire. More smoke and creosote is
the result. If the solenoid is not operating correctly, it causes a snowball effect of problems.
Primary/Secondary Air Motor
Principles
The primary/secondary air motor regulates the air flow to under the grates
(primary air) or to the top of the airbox (secondary air). The motor obtains its
signal from the controller and moves accordingly. This is an advanced way of
controlling the fire for the lowest emissions and highest efficiency.
Removal and Replacement of the primary/secondary air motor
1) Turn off the main power supply to the furnace.
2) Remove the top screw from the red cover and pull the red cover off.
3) Remove the small bolt that holds the motor to the bracket (just right
of where the red cover was)
4) Slide the motor (the white part) to the left and off the large bottom
pin
5) Attach the red cover onto the new primary/secondary motor and re
attach the top screw.
Primary/Secondary Air Motor
6) Slide the motor back onto the bottom pin and re-attach the small bolt
to the bracket. Contact a licensed electrician if you have any questions.
48
Air Box
Principle
The air box is designed to distribute the appropriate percentage of air
from the blower(s), into different areas of the firebox so the fire will
burn efficiently and clean.
Maintenance / Result
You shouldn’t have to clean out your airbox, but in the event of your
airbox warping it is replaceable.
Removal and Replacement
1) Remove all wood and let the unit cool down.
2) Disconnect main power.
Airbox
3) Disconnect the back of the secondary air wing from the
cable/pulley system.
4) Remove the secondary air wing from the top of the airbox by lifting
it out.
5) Remove the two top bolts holding the airbox in place.
6) Remove the primary/secondary motor actuator link in the back of the furnace by unbolting it.
7) Remove the grate plate and grates by lifting them out
8) Pull the airbox forward and lift it out
9) Replace the airbox and reverse the above.
Automatic Fan Switch (A.F.S.)
The Automatic Fan Switch must operate correctly for safe operation of the Heatmor
Principle
The fan switch turns the fan on while the outer door is opened to clear the possible excess fuel build
up in the firebox. Along with normal recommended, safe firebox door opening practices, the risk of a flash
back is greatly reduced.
Operation
The Automatic Fan Switch automatically turns on the fan when the front outer door is open. The Automatic Fan
Switch can be over ridden by the Front light and Combustion Air Blower Control Switch and the high limit will
also override the Automatic Fan Switch.
Maintenance/Result
Ensure that the outer door closes properly to activate the Automatic Fan Switch. If the outer door does not
close properly the switch could stay in the “fan on” position or if the Automatic Fan Switch fails in the “fan
on” position, the Heatmor combustion fan will continue to run until the high limit is tripped. Ensure that the
Automatic Fan Switch is working properly: if the Heatmor is off when you approach the Heatmor, the fan
should come on when you open the outer door, if it does not, then your Automatic Fan Switch has failed
in the “fan off” position.
49
CHAPTER 15
CHIMNEY AND FLUE
Chimney
Principles
The principle of the chimney is to discharge smoke from the flue into
the atmosphere.
Maintenance
Make sure the chimney and chimney extension(s) are clean and in
good condition.
The chimney may be cleaned from the top with a chimney-cleaning
device. Inspect the chimney twice a month during the heating
season to ensure there is not an excessive amount of creosote. If an
excessive creosote buildup has occured, it must be removed promptly
to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Provided extension stub holder
When the unit is shut down for the summer, inspect and clean the chimney for the next heating season. When
the furnace is not in use, cover the chimney so nothing can enter.
DO NOT connect to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Chimney Extension(s)
Principles
Chimney extensions discharge smoke higher into the atmosphere. They also discharge sparks higher into the
atmosphere, so they have more chance of being burned out before the reach the ground. Aproved chimney
extensions may be added to the chimney to discharge smoke to higher levels. Discharging smoke at a higher
level helps keep smoke above property level, especially on low pressure or cloudy, hazy or wet days. When
installing chimney extensions, you must have no less than three tech-12 self tapping screws per extension.
Any chimney extension excedding 10 feet must be supported with guide wires.
There is one small extension holder that is specifically made for the model 400-4S. The design of that
extension holder acts as a draft damper and must be installed on the unit.
Please refer to the “Best Burn Practices” located on the inside front cover of this Operations and Maintenance
Manual.
Maintenance/Result
1) See chimney maintenance above.
2) Purchase approved chimney extensions that fit together correctly. If the extensions don’t fit properly,
they may fall off and cause a hazard.
3) Annually remove chimney extensions for cleaning and safety purposes.
In case of chimney fire, shut off combustion fan switch and consult your dealer. 10 inch steel extensions are
available from your local dealer.
NOTE: If more than one extension (more than 3 feet) is used on the model 400-4S, use all insulated steel
extensions after 3 feet. Insulated extensions are also available from your local dealer.
50
Rain Caps and Spark Arrestor
Consult your local dealer for optional components.
Flue
Principles of the Flue
The flue allows the passage of heat, smoke and gases from the firebox to
the chimney. Because the flue is surrounded by water, heat is transferred to
the water surrounding the flue. This captures heat that would otherwise be
lost out the chimney, assisting in the process of a more efficient burn.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE
FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING THIS
MAINTENANCE. ALWAYS WEAR
PROPER PERSONAL PROTECTIVE
EQUIPMENT.
Maintenance
Only dust should accumulate in the flue. If creosote develops, the cause
should be determined and eliminated.
1) Inspect and clean the flue once a month during the heating season.
2) Remove the nuts holding the flue covers and remove all three
flue covers (one in the front and two in the back)
3) Put the secondary air wing into the up position.
4) Using the flue scraper provided with the HEATMORTM furnace,
push the dust to the back of the flue and then from the back of the
furnace, push the dust into the firebox. Remove this dust as you
would ashes. If a lot of dust is dropped down, be certain that the air
slot in the airbox is not covered.
5) Re-attach all flue cover plates, making sure to tighten the nuts to
make an airtight seal.
6) If the HEATMORTM Furnace unit is shut down for the summer,
inspect and clean the flue for the next heating season.
Removing Flue Covers
Removing Flue Covers
Cleaning the Flue
Flue Covers
Principles
The flue covers are airtight and provides access to the flue for cleanout.
Flue Scraper
Principles
The flue scraper is provided for cleaning the flue only and is not designed for be used for other purposes.
51
CHAPTER 16
ASHES
Ash Management and Ash Removal
1) If ash management is deficient, the HEATMOR™ will not perform to its optimum. It is time well spent to ensure proper ash management. In the long run, the operator will be paid back many times over in higher efficiency and better performance. Improper ash management results in one unfavorable condition starting a chain reaction of additional problems.
2) Allow all wood in the firebox to fully burn out every day or two, and use this opportunity to rake the ashes in the firebox, down into the grates. By timing the loading of wood so the water temperature drops approximately 10 degrees below the low water temperature set-point, means all fuel in the firebox is used up, and the only thing burning are the ashes. An hour or two of this condition will ensure an easy, smoke free opportunity to rake the ashes.
When all fuel has been burned out of the ashes, they will be a pale brown color. With a light raking assistance, they will fall through the grates into the ash pan below. It is best to rake the area over the grate, every day, such that the grates are at least 25 percent clear of ash. This allows upward movement of combustion air.
YOU CAN OBTAIN ASH RAKES FROM YOUR LOCAL DEALER
3) If the ashes don’t flow into the ash pan while being raked, the ash pan is possibly full. Removing the ashes from the ash pan before it is completely full ensures the proper airflow from below the
grates is maintained and also ensures the ashes can drop through the grates into the ash pan.
Ashes should be removed before the ash pan is completely full.
4) Be careful not to push the ashes too close to the rear of the firebox, blocking off the combustion airflow from the air box.
5) Do not allow ashes to build up on top of the grates. Air needs to flow through the grates to fuel the fire. A blocked grate can cause inefficient or non-existent combustion conditions.
6) It is not necessary to rake or move the ashes that accumulate around the sides of the firebox. Usually they will naturally flow onto the grate area, courtesy of being disturbed as wood is added.
7) A rule of thumb is to remove ashes once per week. Choose a certain day of the week and faithfully do the ash removal chore on that same day, every week.
8) Completely burned ashes will appear like flour. They may be dusty when being removed with the scraper. A particle mask should be worn when removing ashes.
9) Obtain a square, steel container, approxiamately one bushel in volume that will fit under the ash
access tube. Scrape the ashes into the square container and immediately dispose of them into the
larger, sealed metal container.
10) Removed ashes should be stored in a steel container, sealed with a steel tight fitting lid, and placed in an area free of combustible materials for a few days, to allow the ashes to completely cool before being disposed.
52
Ash Management and Ash Removal (cont.)
11) If wood with nails is burned, the nails will find their way through the grates and can be removed with the
ashes. Normal nails should pose no problem. If the nails are “U” shaped, they may loop over the grate and
restrict the auger. Remove these nails from the grate with a magnet.
With proper handling, it is not necessary to let the fire go out or the
ashes to cool before removing ashes.
Ash Pan
Principles
The ash pan is a storage reservoir for completely burned ashes and
provides support for the grates. It is also a distribution area for the
combustion air that flows upwards through the grates. A reasonable
amount of ashes (two to four gallons) should be removed during each
ash removal.
Ash Scraper
Principles
The scraper provides a convenient and cleaner method of removing
ashes from ash pan.
Ash Pan (below grates)
Operation
1) The ash scraper should never be left in the ash pan between clean-outs of ashes. Doing so
will interfere with the required combustion airflow beneath the grates, and required combustion airflow
up through the grates.
2) Insert the scraper into the ashes and pull the ashes out.
Ash Cleanout Tube
Principles
The ash cleanout tube is a rectangular tube that extends from the front
of the cladding of the HEATMOR™. This extension allows placing a
container under the tube to catch the ashes.
Ash Scraper
Ash Cleanout Tube
53
Ash Cleanout Tube Cover Plate
Principles
The ash cleanout tube cover plate is a rectangular plate that is secured onto
the end of the ash cleanout tube, creating an airtight seal.
Operation
1) When removing ashes, always turn off combustion air blowers.
2) Remove the two thumb nuts.
3) Insert the ash scraper and remove the ashes.
4) Replace the ash cleanout tube cover plate and securely tighten
the two thumb nuts.
Removal of Ash Cleanout Tube
Cover Plate
Creosote
Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled
moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condence in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow
burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes
an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice monthly during the heating season
to determine if a creosote build up has occured.
Also check daily for creosote build up until experience shows how often cleaning is necessary.
Be aware that the hotter the fire, the less creosote is deposited, and that weekly cleanings can be necessary
in mild weather, even though monthly cleanings can be enough in the colest months.
If creosote has accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Do not connect this unit to the chimney flue serving another appliance.
54
CHAPTER 17
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
Temperature Gauge
Principles
The temperature gauge displays the temperature of the water in the water jacket.
The temperature gauge body fits into a “well”. The “well” is completely watertight
and is threaded into the water jacket. This allows the temperature gauge to be
removed with no loss of water. The temperature gauge is for reference only, not
to be used for exact temperature readings. More accurate equipment is needed
to determine actual water temperature.
Maintenance
Keep the face of the dial clean by cleaning periodically with glass cleaner.
Temperature Gauge
Removal and Replacement
1) To remove the temperature gauge from the “well,” pull straight out on the face of the dial. Do not pull on the face of the dial in a twisting motion. A twisting motion may result in de-calibrating the temperature gauge.
2) To install, push the temperature gauge straight into the well. (Ensure contact paste has been applied to well.)
NOTE: Different makes and models of temperature gauges have different sized wells. Often they are not
interchangeable. Replace with the correct unit from your local dealer.
NOTE: The temperature reading on the temperature gauge may not coincide exactly with the temperature of
the water leaving the back of the HEATMOR™ or the temperature of the water arriving into the building being
heated. There may also be small variances between the temperature reading on the temperature gauge at the
front of the HEATMOR™ and the controller and/or the aquastat on the back of the HEATMOR™.
These variances result from:
1) The temperature gauge is reading the temperature of the water at the top of the water jacket, at the front of the HEATMOR™. The hot supply water is taken from the bottom of the water jacket at the rear of the HEATMOR™.
2) The same locational reason for the variance between the temperature gauge and the controller and/
or aquastat.
3) Until the water is thoroughly mixed, whether or not the unit is firing, there will be variances between the different instruments.
IN A NORMAL OPERATING MODE, SMALL VARIANCES IN READINGS AND
CALIBRATIONS WILL NOT AFFECT THE END RESULTS OF THE TOTAL SYSTEM.
55
CHAPTER 18
ELECTRICAL
Principles
The HEATMORTM furnace comes with all internal components pre-wired. Provision is made for easy
attachment of the main electrical power supply to the HEATMOR™ controls. Electrical outlets at the rear of the
HEATMOR™ accommodate plugging in circulating pumps.
Electrical Supply
Have a licensed electrician make all electrical connections.
Required electrical power supply to the HEATMOR™ is 115 volts, 60HZ, 1 phase.
1) Use only 14/3 electrical wire.
2) The 14/3 wire will actually contain 4 wires; a) black, b) white, c) red, d) ground
3) If the electrical wire is being buried in the trench, be certain to use electrical wire approved for direct burial.
4) Do not place electrical wire in close contact with the supply and return lines.
5) The electrical supply wire should be connected to it’s own circuit.
Electrical Supply Junction Box
Principles
The electrical components of the HEATMOR™ furnace are pre-wired at the
factory. All the wiring becomes centralized in the junction box.
Connecting the main power supply to the HEATMOR™:
1) Remove the plate on the Electrical Supply Junction Box.
2) Insert the electrical supply wire through the hole in the box
bottom(punch out the hole if it is not present) and route back into the
supply junction box.
3) Basically, the black wires are connected, the white wires are connected, the ground wires are connected, and the red wires are connected.
4) Tighten the screw clamp in the electrical connector to hold the
supply wire firm.
5) Replace the plate on the Electrical Supply Junction Box.
Double Outlets / Electrical
Supply Junction Box
Maintenance
• Keep the junction box clean and dry.
• Keep the cover plate firmly attached at all times.
• Make certain the MARR connectors (wire nuts) are properly installed and holding tight.
56
Double Electrical Outlets at Rear
Principles
To provide a live source of 115V power to power pumps, trouble lights, etc.
Maintenance
• Do not overload the circuit
• Keep the outlets clean
• Check periodically if the Ground Fault has tripped and needs to be
reset
Water Temperature Probe
Double Outlets / Electrical Supply
Junction Box
Principles
The water temperature probe communicates with the controller to control the combustion air to its proper
setting.
1) At the controllers’s low setting it will turn the combustion air blower(s) on, re-igniting the fire.
2) At the controller’s high setting it will turn the combustion air blower(s)
off, extinguishing the fire.
3) The difference between the highest temperature of the water and the lowest temperature of the water is 20 degrees Fahrenheit. From the
factory, this control is set at approximately 185 degrees Fahrenheit
for the high and 165 degrees Fahrenheit for the low.
Adjustments
1) No adjustments to the controller settings can be made.
Water Temperature Probe
(above the rear flue cover)
Removal and Replacement
1) Turn off the main power supply to the HEATMOR™.
2) Pull the thermocouple straight out of the well.
3) Disconnect the thermocouple wire connection from the controller and re-wire the new thermocouple.
4) Route and replace the new thermocouple into the well with silicone.
5) Turn on the power.
High Water Temperature Safety Shutoff Control
Principles
The correct name is an “aquastat.” It is referred to as an aquastat because it measures the temperature of
water (aqua means water). It is sometimes referred to as a thermostat, but thermo means air. It does not
measure the temperature of air. The High Water Temperature Safety Shutoff Control turns off all electrical
power to the combustion air blower and the front light if an excessive water temperature be reached.
Operation
• From the factory, this control is set at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. When the water temperature within the
water jacket lowers to 195 degrees Fahrenheit; the electrical circuit to the main combustion air blower
would be re-activated. The combustion air blowers will not come back on until the low water
57
temperature is reached.
• There is no need to make any adjustment. Leave it set at 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
Removal and Replacement
1) Turn off the main power supply to the HEATMOR™.
2) Remove the aquastat cover by unscrewing the top screw, then pulling the
cover off.
3) Disconnect and label or draw a diagram of each wire connection
on the aquastat.
4) Loosen the two screws at the back of the aquastat, which clamp the aquastat to the “well” in the water jacket.
5) Pull the aquastat body straight out of the “well”, ensuring the High Temp
copper wire and probe is being pulled out of the well along with the body.
Safety Shutoff
6) Insert the new unit probe first into the well. (Ensure contact paste has been
applied to well.)
7) The clamp must fit around the groove of the well. Tighten the clamp with the two screws at the
back of the aquastat body.
8) Connect the electrical wires to the appropriate connections, following the label or diagram.
9) Replace the cover.
10) Turn on the power.
11) Adjust the dial and white wheel to the preferred settings.
Front Light and Fan Power Switch
Principles
1) To provide light while fueling.
2) To provide a means of turning off the combustion air blowers on demand.
3) To provide a visual warning that electrical power to the combustion air
blower has been terminated.
Operation of the Front Light and Fan Power Switch
• By adjusting the fan power switch to the down position, the electrical
Front Light and Fan
power to the combustion air blower(s) is manually terminated, and the
Power Switch
front light turns on.
• This light will then illuminate the area in front of the HEATMOR™.
• The light must be turned off for electrical power to be running to the combustion air blowers.
IF THE WATER TEMPERATURE IS HIGH ENOUGH TO TRIGGER THE HIGH WATER
TEMPERATURE SAFETY SHUTOFF, THE FRONT LIGHT WILL NOT TURN ON
WHEN THE FAN POWER SWITCH IS IN THE DOWN POSITION.
Removal and Replacement of the Front Light Bulb
1) Remove the glass globe by first loosening the setscrew and then unscrew the globe.
2) Replace the light bulb.
3) Replace the globe and tighten the setscrew.
58
Removal and Replacement of the Fan Power/Light Switch
1) Turn off the main electrical power supply to the HEATMOR™.
2) Remove the switch cover plate.
3) Make a sketch of the location of the wires on the switch.
4) Remove the wires, and replace the switch. This is a special 3-way switch.
5) Replace the wires as in the diagram.
6) Secure the cover plate.
7) Turn the main electrical power supply back on to the HEATMOR™.
Front Light
Note: It is recommended to contact a licensed electrician to perform the above operation.
In the Event of a Power Failure
If a power failure occurs during the use of a HEATMOR™, do not open the firebox door to provide draft for
the fire to burn. Allow the fire to go out. In case of a prolonged power failure, a generator should be used as a
back-up power source.
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CHAPTER 19
ELECTRONICS
Controller
Principles of the Controller
The 400-4S controls the burn of the stove by monitoring the firebox thermocouples temperatures and giving
more or less primary to the burn chamber depending on those temperatures. It has two burn modes, “Normal”
and “Boost”. The 400-4S will run in “Normal” mode most of the time. The only times it will switch to Boost
would be if the user went to the controller and pressed the boost button, or the water temperature falls 10
degrees below the restart temperature. At that point the fan will turn to high speed and the BTU output will
increase. Boost mode will be reset when the stove reaches the 185 water temperature limit and cycles. On
restart the stove will run in normal mode.
The light switch on the inside of the front of the stove is used to turn off the fan and turn on the light in the
front. When the switch is flipped up, the front light will turn on and the powered flipper(solenoid) will open up.
The solenoid/flipper opens up to help give some air to the firebox while a fire is being started. The powered
flipper(solenoid) will close if the light is on for more than 10 minutes. When the switch is closed, the fan will
turn on and the primary/secondary motor will be set to the initial loading setting. The 400-4S is considered
“Loaded” when the light switch is flipped up then down. This should be done every time the stove is loaded to
ensure proper startup.
When the front door is opened, and the stove is in its off cycle the Automatic Fan Switch will cause the fan to
run. The user should wait approximately 1 minute from opening the outer door to opening the inner door to
allow for the volatile smoke to be cleared out of the firebox. If the front door is left open, the stove will continue
to run until the water temp hits the high limit(200F). When the front door is closed, it will run until the stove hits
the 185 water temperature limit and then will shut down.
Pressing F1 will bring up the main screen with the boost and Load buttons. Pressing F2 will bring up a screen
that will show the firebox thermocouple temperatures, the fan speed percent and the primary/secondary motor
percent. This screen will be helpful if problems arise on the stove. F3 will bring up a screen that will tell you
if any firebox thermocouple probes are not reading or if the thermocouple block isn’t reading. Pressing F4 will
bring up the start screen which shows the Program version number and the serial number of the stove.
60
CHAPTER 20
EXTERIOR CLADDING AND INSULATION
Outer Front Door of the HEATMOR™
Principles of the Outer Front Door
The outer door of the furnace is an exterior door, which is insulated
to retain the heat that radiates from the firebox door and water jacket
surface. The door provides a lockable, protective surface to prevent any
hot surface from being exposed.
Operation of the Outer Front Door
The outer door is hinged and opens to the right of the furnace. As the
door opens, it releases the Automatic Fan Switch, which allows air to enter
the air box reducing the risk of a flashback. A keyed lock is installed on the
left side of the door providing an easy way to ensure the door cannot be
opened causing untrained users to be injured.
Outer Front and Back Door
Maintenance / Result
Keep the door free from any obstruction and ensure that the inner seal of
the door seals against the doorframe. This will keep cold air from entering
the heated air cavity, which provides the air box and firebox with air.
Removal and Replacement
To remove the outer door, the lock handle must be unlocked and opened.
Pick up the old door from the hinges and place and secure the new door into
position. Test the door to ensure a tight seal to the doorframe of the furnace.
Roof of the HEATMOR™
Lockable Door
Principle of the Roof
The roof of the furnace is one solid piece of roofing steel creased in the
center. This provides a dry covering to protect the insulation of the furnace.
Maintenance / Result
Inspect the roof of the furnace once a year to verify that none of the roof
screws have broken. A large number of broken roof screws can allow
damage to the furnace roof. Ensure the lift hook and chimney are sealed so
no water can enter into the roof insulation.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRE IN THE FIREBOX WHEN PERFORMING
THIS REPAIR. DO NOT PERFORM THIS REPAIR WHEN UNIT
WATER TEMPERATURE IS UNSAFE. ALWAYS WEAR PROPER
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
Roof
Removal and Replacement
If the roof has been damaged it can be replaced. Follow these steps or contact your local dealer.
1) Remove the silicone from around the lift hook and vent pipe.
2) Remove all roof screws holding the damaged roof secure.
61
3) Lift the old roof steel off the furnace.
4) Install the new roof steel.
5) Secure the new roof to the frame of the furnace.
6) Re-seal the lift point and relief vent pipe with high temperature silicone.
Sides of the HEATMOR™
Principle of the Sides
The sides of the furnace are clad with your choice of steel siding.
The steel siding provides a dry covering to protect the insulation
of the furnace.
Maintenance / Result
Inspect the sides of the furnace once a year to verify that none
of the screws have broken. A large number of broken screws can allow
damage to the furnace siding. Ensure there is a good seal so no water
can enter into the insulation covering the sides of the water jacket.
Removal and Replacement
If the sides have been damaged or if you would like to change the color
of your unit, they can be replaced with different steel siding. Follow the
following steps or contact your local dealer.
1) Remove all the screws holding the damaged steel siding secure.
2) Lift the old steel off the furnace.
3) Install the new steel siding.
4) Secure the new steel to the frame of the furnace.
Outer Side
Insulation
Principle of the Insulation
The insulation helps retain the heat in the water, which has been heated by
the fire. It also provides a heat barrier to ensure that the outer steel siding
does not resease any heat.
Maintenance / Result
It is important to keep the insulation dry. Wet insulation loses its R-Value.
Keep the base of the furnace sealed to prevent small rodents from making
nests or wrecking the insulation.
Removal and Replacement
To remove and replace the insulation, refer to the preceding removal and
replacement steps involving the roof and siding. If you have any further
questions, please contact your local dealer.
Insulation
62
CHAPTER 21
AIR LEAKS
Checking For Air Leaks
Once your HEATMOR™ system is up and running, we recommend that you conduct an initial check for air
leaks from the furnace. To detect an air leak, put some green grass (or something which will create heavy
smoke) into the furnace. When the furnace is smoking, cover the chimney and turn off the blower and watch for
smoke leaks.
Air leaks cause the fire to not burn as hot or efficiently. In result you will use more wood to achieve the desired
water temperature. The HEATMOR™ Outdoor Furnace is designed with over / under forced drafts and if air
leaks occur, it would change the output of the furnace.
AIR LEAKS INTO THE FIREBOX WILL CAUSE THE FORMATION OF EXCESS CREOSOTE.
63
CHAPTER 22
WATER LEAKS
If you suspect that your HEATMOR™ Stainless Steel Outdoor Furnace has developed a water leak, please
contact your local dealer for verification and further details.
64
CHAPTER 23
DOMESTIC COIL (OPTIONAL)
Principle of the Domestic Coil
The domestic coil provides a method of heating water indirectly through water-to-water convection. This
method of heating needs to be planned from the initial stages of purchasing your HEATMOR™. A HEATMOR™
Outdoor Furnace must be special ordered and manufactured with a special hole at the back of the furnace to
accommodate the domestic coil.
Operation of the Domestic Coil
The coil is inserted at the rear of the furnace through a hole in the water jacket and fastened by nuts and bolts.
The domestic coil plate is sealed to the outer face of the water jacket by a sealing gasket. As water passes
through the domestic coil, the water in the water jacket heats it.
Maintenance / Result
• Make sure a tight seal is maintained between the coil plate and the outer face of the water jacket.
• Firmly fastened connections are essential to ensure there are no leaks.
• The pH level of the water treatment is important to assist in corrosion control. Low water treatment levels could lead to domestic coil pinhole leaks. This would allow the water to mix together causing contamination of domestic water and pressurization in the water jacket resulting in water spillage.
Removal and Replacement
If you suspect you have a leak or faulty internal coil requiring replacement, contact your local dealer.
65
CHAPTER 24
season start-up maintenance checklist
To begin season start-up of your HeatmorTM Outdoor Furnace, assuming you followed the procedures
outlined in the “End of Season Maintenance Checklist,” follow the instructions below:
1. Remove cap from chimney.
2. Build fire in firebox and bring your furnace up to temperature. (Refer to the “Lighting the HeatmorTM for the
first time” section of the HeatmorTM Operations and Maintenance Manual.)
3. Once your furnace is up to temperature, you can start all pumps.
CAUTION: It is recommended to start your pumps AFTER you bring your furnace up to temperature. This
helps ensure your system isn’t air locked and ensure your water is circuating correctly.
4. Your start-up is complete.
66
end of season maintenance checklist
To begin End of Season Shutdown of your Heatmor™ Outdoor Furnace, follow the instructions below:
1. Turn off pump(s).
2. Clean Flue (Refer to the “Flue” section of the HeatmorTM Operations and Maintenance Manual.)
1) Remove the nuts holding the flue covers and remove all three flue covers (one in the front and two in
the back)
2) Put the secondary air wing into the up position.
3) Using the flue scraper provided with the HEATMORTM furnace, push the dust to the back of the flue
and then from the back of the furnace, push the dust into the firebox. Remove this dust as you would
ashes. If a lot of dust is dropped down, be certain that the air slot in the airbox is not covered.
4) Re-attach all flue cover plates, making sure to tighten the nuts to make an airtight seal.
3. Clean ashes out of Firebox. (Refer to the “Ashes” section of the HeatmorTM Operations and Maintenance
Manual.)
a) Thoroughly pull ashes from sides and corners of Firebox. Rake ashes in Firebox down into the grates.
4. Remove ashes out of Ash Pan. (Refer to the “Ashes” section of the HeatmorTM Operations and Maintenance
Manual.)
5. Place cap on Chimney. There is no specific product sold for this use, but a five gallon bucket or something
similar will cover the chimney keeping unwanted moisture and visitors away.
6. Properly clean Fan(s). (Refer to the “Air Supply” section of the HeatmorTM Operations and Maintenance
Manual.)
1) Turn off the main power supply to the furnace.
2) With a small brush, scrape any dust or residue that has accumulated on the fins of the blower.
3) Replace firebox door elbows every other season. If you did not change your firedoor elbows last year, it is strongly suggested to change them following the steps in this manual.
7. Check PH level of your system water. Your PH level should be between 8 - 10. (Refer to the “Water” section
in the Heatmor™ Operations and Maintenance Manual.)
The water in the HEATMOR™ should be chemically analyzed once per year to ensure the proper levels of treatment are being maintained. Contact your local dealer as to where to have your water tested. Provide the testing person with an amount of water from your HEATMOR™, equal to approximately 20 ounces, in
a clean container. The amount of water treatment that has to be added yearly is dependent on how much fresh
water you have added to your system since the last test. Be certain to add a water treatment that is approved
by your dealer and HEATMOR™ Inc.
NOTE: To keep the CLT - 545 (water chemical) circulated and properly coated throughout the HEATMOR™
system, it is recommended to start pumps at least once a month for approximately 2 - 3 hours.
67
68
CHAPTER 25
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1.
Q. How much water should be in the bladder?
A. When the furnace is initially filled, there should be about one inch of water in the bladder with the water at a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit. When the furnace is at its operating temperature, the bladder should be near full but not hard. Overfilling the bladder can shorten the life of the bladder.
Refer to:
• Maintaining the correct amount of water in the bladder and in the HEATMOR™.
2.
Q. Why is water coming out of the overflow relief vent pipe?
A. When the furnace is initially filled and too much water is in the furnace, it releases through the relief vent pipe when the furnace is up to temperature. If this happens, a small amount of water should be removed from the furnace so the bladder is not hard.
Refer to:
• Installation of the HEATMOR™ Furnace.
3.
Q. Why is my furnace wet on the inside of the firebox?
A. When your furnace is first fired up, and also at times during normal operation, the atmosphere inside the firebox will exceed the dew point causing condensation.
Refer to:
• Furnace has excessive moisture in firebox (Located in Trouble Shooting and Solutions).
• Dew Point (Located in Safe Operating Guidelines).
4.
Q. Why does my furnace fail to respond to the switch at the front of the furnace? For example; the light will not come on and the fan will not operate?
A. The high limit aquastat has probably overridden the operating aquastat. If this has happened, it should also trigger your distribution system or high water temperature warning.
Refer to:
• High Water Temperature Safety Shutoff Controller (Located in Electrical).
5.
Q. What does the “boost” button do on the controller?
A. The “boost” will tell the controller to put the furnace into “high burn” mode which will have the fan increase its speed and move the primary/secondary motor to a “high burn” location.
6.
Q. My furnace is shut down but still continues to increase in water temperature?
A. There is an air leak somewhere in the furnace. Check all flippers and seals, ensuring that there is an airtight seal.
Refer to:
• Checking for air leaks (Located in Air Leaks).
69
7.
Q. Why am I experiencing an excess build up of creosote in the furnace?
A. You more than likely are introducing unwanted draft into the firebox. This may be caused by several things, including a door ajar, ash auger tube cover loose, flipper assembly stuck. If your furnace is in a location where wind may effect the pressure differential across the furnace, it could cause draft to leak past the flipper.
Refer to:
• Creosote Build-up (Located in Trouble Shooting and Solutions).
8.
Q. How do you change a door hose while the furnace is in operation?
A. Never change a door hose unless the furnace is cooled. Please refer to the firebox door hose section in the manual for further details or contact your local dealer.
Refer to:
• Firebox Door Hoses and Elbows (Located in Firebox and Other Components).
9.
Q. My furnace combustion blower continues to run but the fire will not burn until I open the door?
A. Your solenoid assembly is most likely not working to open the flipper. Please refer to the combustion
blower, solenoid and flipper section in the manual for further details or contact your local dealer.
Refer to:
• Combustion Air Blower, Solenoid and Flipper (Located in Air Supply).
10. Q. Water is coming out of the chimney flue covers?
A. Similar to the firebox, when your furnace is initially fired up and also at times during normal operation, the atmosphere inside the firebox and chimney flue will exceed the dew point causing condensation.
Refer to:
• Furnace has excessive moisture in firebox (Located in Trouble Shooting and Solutions)
• Dew Point (Located in Safe Operating Guidelines).
70
CHAPTER 26
TROUBLESHOOTING AND SOLUTIONS
Main Principles to Remember
♦ Enough Wood.
♦ Enough Water.
♦ Fans On – Air Must Get In.
♦ Fans Off – Air Must Stay Out.
♦ Water Temperature between 165 and 185 degrees Fahrenheit.
PROCEDURES ARE REFERENCED TO THIS HEATMOR™ “OPERATORS AND MAINTENANCE
MANUAL”
PROBLEM
Furnace Boils
71
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Solenoid not closing
flipper 100 percent.
Remove solenoid and
flipper assembly.
Clean, lube or replace.
Contact your Local Dealer.
Blower, Flipper Assembly
plate not tight.
Tighten wing nuts.
Refer to
Steps to “Maintain your Blower
and Flipper Assembly.”
Firebox door ajar, not
shut tight.
Close Fire Door Tight.
Ash cleanout tube not
sealed tight.
Close Tube Cover
Firmly.
Flue cover plates not
sealed.
Tighten flue nuts.
Door gasket damaged.
Replace Gasket.
Refer to
“Firebox Door Gasket.”
Water Level is Low.
Add Water.
Refer to
“Filling the HEATMOR™
Outdoor Furnace Initially with
Water.”
Creosote buildup on
firebox doorframe
causing improper door
seal.
Remove creosote from
doorframe.
Refer to
“Firedoor Frame”
Refer to
“Firebox Door.”
Refer to
“Ash Cleanout Tube Cover
Plate.”
Refer to
“Flue.”
PROBLEM
No Heat in
Building
Furnace will not
burn properly
or will not
maintain water
temperature.
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Very windy day causing
a negative draft on the
chimney.
Consult Dealer.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Too little heat draw off
HEATMOR™.
Consult Dealer.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Circulating Pump not
Functioning.
Replace Pump.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Fire Out.
Light Fire.
Refer to
“Lighting your Heatmor.”
Water level low.
Add Water.
Refer to
“Water Level Maintenance.”
Power loss.
Check Power Source.
Refer to
“Electrical Supply.”
Pump malfunction.
Replace Pump or
Cartridge.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Air trapped in water lines.
Bleed lines.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Malfunction of heating
appliances in building.
Repair, adjust or
replace.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Chimney plugged.
Clean Chimney.
Refer to
“Chimney Stub.”
Not enough wood in
Firebox.
Add wood.
Refer to
“Loading wood into the
HEATMOR™.”
Poor quality wood.
Better wood.
Electrical power is off or
not constant.
Check all electrical
connections. Call
dealer or licensed
electrician.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Refer to
“Electrical (Contact Local
Dealer).”
72
PROBLEM
Furnace has
excessive
moisture in
Firebox.
73
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Fire is out.
Re-light fire.
Refer to
“Lighting Your HEATMOR™.”
Flue plugged.
Clean Flue.
Refer to
“Flue.”
Blower fins are full of
dust.
Clean Blowers.
Refer to
“Steps to Maintain your
Blower, Solenoid and Flipper.”
Blowers not running
properly or up to speed.
Clean Blowers.
Refer to
“Steps to Maintain your
Blower, Solenoid and Flipper.”
Ashes in Air Box.
Clean Air Box.
Refer to
Air Box.
Too many ashes in
Firebox restricting air
flow.
Clean out ashes with
Auger.
Refer to
“Ash Management and Ash
Removal.”
Restricted air flow into
Blower air inlet.
Clean Blower.
Refer to
“Steps to Maintain your
Blower, Solenoid and Flipper.”
Too much heat draw on
Heatmor Furnace.
Verify HEATMOR™
furnace size for
application.
Wood is too big in
diameter - not enough
surface area to burn to
provide enough heat.
Re-size fuel.
Refer to
“Wood.”
Water Level low.
Add Water.
Refer to
“Filling the HEATMOR™
Outdoor Furnace Initially with
Water.”
Excessive moisture in
Fuel.
Use dryer wood.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Chimney plugged.
Clean Chimney.
Refer to
“Chimney Stub / Chimney
Extension(s).”
Contact your
Local Dealer.
PROBLEM
Furnace boils
or rattles
before reaching
maximum
operating
temperature.
Firebox Door
pops or rattles.
Building too
warm.
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Flue plugged.
Clean Flue.
Refer to
“Top Rectangular Flue.”
Ashes in Air Box.
Clean Air Box.
Refer to
“Air Box.”
Too many ashes in
Furnace.
Clean out ashes.
Refer to
“Ash Management and
Removal.”
Excessive Moisture in
Fuel
Use dryer wood
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Improper Antifreeze.
Use recommended
Anti-freeze.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Very hot burning fire.
Mix in some bigger or
less cured wood.
Refer to
“Wood.”
Elbow(s) or hoses are
clogged, restricting water
flow through door hoses.
Unclog or replace
elbow(s) or hoses.
Refer to
“Firebox Door Hoses and
Elbows.”
Loading fuel too close to
the firebox door.
Load your fuel away
from the firebox door.
Refer to
“Loading wood into the
HEATMOR™.”
Very hot burning fire.
Mix in some bigger or
less cured wood.
Refer to
“Wood.”
Flash Curtain / Heat
Shield has been
removed.
Install Flash Curtain /
Heat Shield.
Refer to
“Flash Curtain / Heat Shield.”
Defective in-house
thermostat.
Replace thermostat.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
74
PROBLEM
Creosote
build-up.
75
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Air leakage around Door.
Replace Door Gasket.
Refer to
“Firebox Door Gasket.”
Outdoor furnace is
overheating.
Check for air leaks.
Refer to
“Checking for Air Leaks.”
Controls for heating
appliances in building
need to be adjusted.
Adjust, relocate,
add more controls to
monitor and control
heat.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Water Controls in
building.
Add controls to control
hot water flow for heat.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Too much supply water
going to certain heating
appliances.
Adjust water flow.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Outdoor temperatures
are warmer and supply
controls have not been
adjusted.
Adjust water flow.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
High limit switch set too
low.
Adjust setting.
Refer to
“Electrical (Water Temperature
Range Control).”
Air leakage around Door.
Replace Door Gasket.
Refer to
“Firebox Door Gasket.”
Firebox receiving air
somewhere when
fans are off.
Check all seals
for air leaks.
Run a smoke check.
Refer to
“Checking for Air Leaks.”
Fire is not burning hot.
Check type of wood
burning and if blower
and solenoid are
working properly.
Refer to
“Types of Wood,
Combustion Air Blower,
Solenoid and Flipper.”
Burning high surface
area wood (small pieces).
Add larger pieces
of wood.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
PROBLEM
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Air flow is not sufficient
for the type of fuel.
Check and clean fan
blades.
Refer to
“Combustion Air Blower,
Solenoid and Flipper.”
Ashes in Air Box.
Clean Air Box.
Refer to
“Air Box.”
Chimney Plugged.
Clean Chimney.
Refer to
“Chimney Stub.”
Burning wet wood.
Add dryer wood as fuel.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Burning unseasoned
wood.
Add seasoned
wood to your fuel.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Flue plugged.
Clean Flue.
Refer to
“Flue.”
Thermometer
(temp gauge)
exceeds
212 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Furnace is not
boiling.
Low water level
Add water.
(Let Furnace cool first)
Refer to
“Water Level Maintenance.”
Charcoal build-up
in rear of firebox.
Excessive ashes.
Remove ashes.
Refer to
“Ash Management and Ash
Removal.”
Failure to rake ashes
periodically.
Rake ashes.
Refer to
“Ash Management and Ash
Removal.”
Water level is low.
Add water.
Refer to
“Filling the Furnace Initially
with Water.”
Defective thermometer.
Replace thermometer.
Refer to
“Thermometer.”
Blowers continue
to operate and
thermometer is
reading a higher
than setting
temperature.
76
PROBLEM
Too much smoke
comes out
firebox door while
loading.
Losing Water
77
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Defective water
temperature probe
Replace water
temperature probe
Refer to
“Water Temperature Probe.”
Defective Automatic Fan
Switch (A.F.S.)
Replace A.F.S.
Refer to
“Automatic Fan Swith.”
Opening firebox door
when there is fuel still
inside.
Do not add so much
fuel all at one time.
Refer to
“Loading Wood into the
HEATMOR™.”
Burning wet wood or
poor quality wood.
Add dryer,
seasoned wood.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Opening door within
two minutes of blowers
turning off.
Open door sooner
or wait for next
cycle to start.
Refer to
“Loading Wood into the
HEATMOR™.”
Firebox air leak.
Check all seals for
or air leaks.
Run a smoke check.
Refer to
“Air Leaks.”
Flash Curtain / Heat
Shield has been
removed.
Install Flash
Curtain / Heat Shield
Refer to
“Flash Curtain / Heat Shield.”
Water temperature is low.
Fuel fire.
Refer to
“Loading Wood into the
HEATMOR™.”
Furnace pad has not
been raised above
ground level.
Raise pad.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Draft fan has not been
turned off while loading.
Turn off fan before
loading.
Refer to
“Loading Wood into the
HEATMOR™.”
Furnace is boiling (could
happen when away,
sleeping or at work).
Add water. Complete a
full furnace check of all
systems.
Refer to
“Filling the Furnace Initially
with Water.”
PROBLEM
Smoke from
chimney is an
annoyance.
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Very slow leak
somewhere in the
system.
Check and tighten any
leaking fittings.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Someone is taking hot
water from the system
when needed.
Add water.
Refer to
“Water Level Maintenance.”
Someone has
accidentally opened
a valve and not told
anyone.
Add water.
Refer to
“Water Level Maintenance.”
Leaking water line.
Fix leak in water line.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Bladder is leaking.
Replace bladder.
Refer to “Bladder.”
Door hoses are leaking.
Replace door hoses.
Refer to
“Firebox Door Hoses and
Elbows.”
Bladder gate valve needs
adjusting.
Adjust and tighten
gate valve.
Refer to
“Bladder Gate Valve and
Bladder Hose.”
Hose clamps are leaking.
Tighten hose clamps.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Chimney is not
high enough.
Add Chimney
Extension.
Refer to
“Chimney Extension(s).”
Improper location of
furnace (trees, buildings,
winds, neighbors).
Possibly relocate
furnace. Contact local
dealer.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Built up creosote is
burning off firebox
surface. Wood pieces
are too small - too much
surface area.
Maintain hot fire.
Refer to
“Wood.”
78
PROBLEM
Burning what
seems to be a lot
of wood.
Cannot get
building(s) warm
enough.
79
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Draft blowers have just
turned off.
Smoke will dissipate.
Burning garbage.
DO NOT BURN
GARBAGE.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Burning wet wood.
Burn dryer wood.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Losing heat into the
ground. Poor insulation.
Re-insulate water lines
and maintain a dry
perimeter.
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
Ground water is
extracting heat from the
water lines.
Provide a method for
ground water to drain.
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
Wood is too dry.
Burning too
fast and hard.
Refer to
“Types of Wood.”
Wood is too small of
pieces.
Add larger pieces
of wood.
Refer to
“Wood.”
Flue is clogged.
Clean Flue.
Refer to
“Flue.”
Using more heat in
building than you realize
(heating more sq.ft.,
appliances, with one heat
source than before).
Consult your dealer.
Verify furnace size for
complete applications.
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
Insufficient heating
devices in building.
Call your local dealer.
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
Improperly installed
heating devices
in building.
Correct installation of
heating devices.
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
Heating devices need
maintenance.
Maintain heating
devices.
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
PROBLEM
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Insufficient water
circulation from
HEATMOR™.
a) Check circulating
pumps. Replace if
necessary .
b) Line that is kinked.
c) Air in system.
d) Need a larger pump.
e) Lines are too small.
f) Pump has a
restriction in the intake
(piece of plastic or foil).
Contact Your
Local Dealer.
Unbalanced supply water
distribution.
Re-balance and
distribute water from
outdoor furnace.
Balance the system by
adjusting the flows of
water to the different
heating appliances.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
One appliance getting
more than it’s share of
the total flow of hot water.
Balance the system by
adjusting the flows of
water to the different
heating appliances.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Defective in house
(building) thermostat and
controls.
Replace thermostats
and controls.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Faulty electrical supply.
Check electrical
connections.
Contact your
Electrician.
Indoor forced air furnace
fan is full of dirt or filter
is plugged and therefore
the air flow is reduced
going through the coil.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Improper installation of
coil in forced air furnace.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Too small a coil in forced
air furnace.
80
PROBLEM
Not enough
domestic hot
water.
CAUSE
SOLUTION
Inadequate Baseboard.
When a water-to-water
heat exchanger is
installed, a temp drop
of 20-30° across heat
exchanger may be
experienced.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Hot water heater
is too small.
Sidearm exchanger
needs to have a pump
installed.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Somewhere in the
domestic water system
of the house, the hot and
the cold can mix, (as in a
single faucet outlet) and
the resulting mixed warm
water is being sent to the
hotwater taps instead of
pure hotwater
Manifold not balanced
properly. One appliance
getting more than its
share of the total flow of
hot water.
Water in Ash
Tube.
81
PROCEDURE
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Balance the system by
adjusting the flow of
water to the different
heating appliances.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Over time, (approx. five
years) with some water
conditions, the sidearm
will clog up with scale
(lime) and restrict or shut
off the flow completely
through the sidearm.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Improper hook up of the
sidearm exchanger.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
Condensation formation
on cooler steel.
Maintain constant
firebox temperature.
Refer to
“Ash Cleanout Tube.”
PROBLEM
Water
temperature
doesn’t
correspond with
aquastat settings.
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Inadequate rate of flow of
water allowing layering of
water temperatures.
Flow should be at
least eight gallons per
minute. Check pump
and installation.
Contact your
Local Dealer.
No contact paste applied
to well of Temperature
Gauge.
Remove Temperature
Gauge from well and
apply paste.
Refer to
“Temperature Gauge.”
Faulty Water
Temperature Probe.
Replace Water
Temperature Probe
Refer to
“Water Temperature
Probe.”
82
PROBLEM
83
CAUSE
SOLUTION
PROCEDURE
Please read the heatmortm stainless steel
limited LIFETIME warranty.
If you have any questions, please contact your local dealer.
Complete and send the furnace registration to your
local dealer, distributor or heatmor inc. Within
30 days of purchase date to validate the warranty.
84
Model: _________________________________________________________________
See inside of front door for data plate that has model information
Referred By: ___________________________________________________________________________________________
Name and Address
07/12/2011
NEW FURNACE
CUSTOMER
APPROVAL
DELIVERY
CHECK
SHEET
CUSTOMER APPROVAL
(Please print)
DEALERSHIP NAME
Copy Distribution
(Please print)
White – Heatmor
Pink – Dealer
Yellow – Distributor
Gold - Customer
Review warranty and maintenance requirements.
Serial No. _________________ Date:____________
(Please print)
(Please print)
safety hazards and proper operation
wood/conditions. ofDemonstrate
Heatmor.
Model: 100CSS 200CSS 400DCSS 600CSS 800CSS
Describe possible problems caused by different
Model: 100CSS 200CSSwood/conditions.
400DCSS 600CSS 800CSS 200SSRII
Serial No. _________________ Date:____________
Model: 100CSS 200CSS 400DCSS 600CSS 800CSS
Serial No. _________________
Date:____________
(Please print)
Describe possible problems caused by different
Explain required maintenance schedule.
wood/conditions.
Describe possible problems caused by different
of Heatmor.
(Please print)
Review warranty and maintenance requirements.
Review warranty and maintenance requirements.
DELIVERY CHECKLIST
Explain required maintenance schedule.
Explain required maintenance
schedule.
Review owners
manual.
Demonstrate safety hazards and proper operation
Describe installations methods and
Heatmor. safety hazards
of
Demonstrate
and proper operation
recommendations.
 ___________________________
recommendations.
DEALER
with
Date
____________________________________________
Date
____________________________________________
________________________________________________
Date
____________________________________________
Customer Signature
Customer Signature
delivery checklist have been reviewed with
me by the salesperson. I have been
________________________________________________
presented
with a key for my locked
Heatmor
and assume the responsibility
CustomerofSignature
________________________________________________
operation and maintenance of it.
(Please print)
DEALERSHIP NAME
me
by the salesperson.
have
been
presented
with a key forImy
locked
presented
with
a
key
for
my
locked
CUSTOMER
APPROVAL
Heatmor and
assume the responsibility of
Heatmor
and
the responsibility
of
operation andassume
maintenance
of it.
I have inspected my new Heatmor and
operation
and
of it.
acknowledge
that all the
itemsmaintenance
on the
delivery
checklist
have been
reviewed
______________________________
me by the
salesperson.
I have
been

Review owners manual.
I have inspected my new Heatmor and

Review owners manual.
Iacknowledge
have inspected
Heatmor
and
thatmy
all new
the items
on the
Describe installations
methods and

acknowledge
that have
all thebeen
items
on the with
delivery
checklist
reviewed

recommendations.
Describe installations
methods and
DELIVERY CHECKLIST
DELIVERY CHECKLIST
(Please print)
DEALER
(Please print)








 ___________________________
______________________________
DEALER
DEALERSHIP NAME
 ___________________________
______________________________
Pink – Dealer
Gold - Customer
Pink – Dealer
Gold - Customer
NEW
NEW FURNACE
FURNACE
DELIVERY
DELIVERY CHECK
CHECK SHEET
SHEET
Copy Distribution
White – Heatmor
Copy Distribution
Yellow – Distributor
White – Heatmor
Yellow – Distributor
Outdoor Furnaces
•
•
•
•
•
•
87
*
NOTES
88
wiring diagram
89
Revised Manual on 07/11/12
90
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