Assembly Manual / Airframe – 106” Edge 540

Assembly Manual / Airframe – 106” Edge 540
Assembly Manual / Airframe – 106” Edge 540
Thank you for purchasing this 3DHobbyShop by Extreme Flight ARF RC aircraft. If you have
any issues, questions, concerns or problems during assembly, please contact our tech
department at: [email protected] or 770-887-1794 10am-5pm Eastern Monday thru
Friday.
SAFETY in Assembly
During assembly of this aircraft, you will be asked to use sharp knives and hobby adhesives.
Please follow all safety procedures recommended by the manufacturers of the products you use,
and always follow these important guidelines:
ALWAYS protect your eyes when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power
tools. Safety glasses are the best way to protect your eyes.
ALWAYS protect your body, especially your hands and fingers when using adhesives, knives,
or tools, especially power tools. Do not cut toward exposed skin with hobby knives. Do not
place hobby knives on tables or benches where they can roll off or be knocked off.
ALWAYS have a first-aid kit handy when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially
power tools. ALWAYS keep hobby equipment and supplies out of the reach of children.
SAFETY in Flying
This is NOT a toy! It is a very high-performance RC airplane capable of high speeds and
extreme maneuvers. It should only be operated by a competent pilot in a safe area with proper
supervision.
 ONLY fly your aircraft in a safe, open area, away from spectators and vehicles and
where it is legal to fly. NEVER fly over an unsafe area, such as a road or street.
 NEVER fly near overhead power or utility lines. If your airplane ever becomes stuck in
a line or a tree DO NOT attempt to retrieve it yourself. Contact the authorities for
assistance in retrieving your aircraft. Power lines are DANGEROUS and falls from
ladders and trees CAN KILL!
 Never fly too close to yourself or spectators.
 Spinning propellers are DANGEROUS!
Never run your motor inside a house or building with the propeller attached Remove the
prop for safety. Always fly within your control.
 Always follow manufacturers instructions for your radio system.
 Always preform a pre-flight check of your aircraft to be certain of the aircraft's
airworthiness.
 Always obtain proper insurance before flying. Always fly model aircraft in accordance
with the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Safety Code. Visit the AMA's website
at www.modelaircraft.org for more information.
Limits of Responsibility
Extreme Flight provides high-quality aircraft and components to it's
customers and end users. These aircraft and components are assembled
by the end user to produce a flying model. It is beyond Extreme Flight's
control to monitor the end user's completed aircraft. Therefore, Extreme
Flight in no way accepts or assumes responsibility or liability for damages
resulting from the end user assembled product. The end user assumes all
responsibility and liability in use of Extreme Flight aircraft and components
and agreeing to hold harmless Extreme Flight, it's distributors and dealers.
Required Items
Hobby Knife
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Set Metric Allen Wrenches
Scissors
Small Pliers
Wire Cutters
Adjustable wrench
Masking tape
Drill and drill bits
Threadlocker (Blue Loctite)
Optional:
Heat gun and covering iron
Dremel tool
Assembly Instructions – Read completely before starting assembly!
UNPACK :
Unpack your airplane and examine the components. Check for damage of any kind. If you have
damage, please contact Extreme Flight to discuss. Contact info listed above.
WRINKLES :
Your airplane was packed in plastic at the factory without any wrinkles in the covering. You may
notice some wrinkles now; more likely, you will notice a few in a day or two or the first time you take
the plane out to the flying field. These wrinkles are the result of wood shrinkage and/or expansion.
Balsa wood changes size and shape slightly as it is exposed to varying humidity in the air. This is a
natural property of balsa wood. As your airplane adjusts to the weather in your part of the world,
wrinkles may appear and disappear. Wrinkles may be removed with the gentle application of heat to
the covering material on your airplane. The best tools to use are a heat gun and covering iron. Apply
the heat gently: the covering material will shrink as you apply the heat, and this will remove the
wrinkles. BE CAREFUL! Too much heat applied too quickly can damage the covering, either by
causing it to pull away from the wood at seams and corners or even by melting it. The covering will
shrink at low temperature with patient application of heat. Wrinkles in the covering DO NOT affect
flight performance. If you must shrink on a color-seam, use the iron and go slowly and carefully to
avoid any pulling or lifting at the seam.
Remove the canopy before attempting to use heat on your covering! The canopy is made of thermoactivated plastic and WILL deform with the application of heat. Do not apply heat to the canopy.
* Demonstrator Version note: As with all dark color fiberglass and plastics, extra care must be
taken to prevent exposure to direct sunlight when not flying. The Demonstrator canopy and
cowl are subject to warping when exposed to high heat and sun exposure. It is good practice to
shade or cover these parts when the airframe is not in service. Demonstrator canopies and
cowls are not warranted against damage due to high heat and direct sunlight exposure.
PAINT:
If you need to clean your airplane, we recommend using a damp towel. The paint used on the canopy
and cowl is not safe for all cleaners. In particular, DO NOT use alcohol on these parts, it will remove
the paint.
Let’s get started!
Using a soldering iron or hobby knife, remove covering from forward fuselage areas.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Front Anti-rotation pin
Wing Safety Pin
Wingtip( Factory Cut)
Cut either one for aileron servo leads.
Wing bolt
Rear Anti-rotation pin
Next remove covering for the horizontal stabilizer bolts and front stab carbon tube.
Remove tail wheel assembly set screws one at a time and re-torque using blue loctite.
Install tail wheel assembly using 3x-4-40 bolts and washers. Use blue loctite on the bolts.
Contents of landing gear hardware bag.
The axles come pre-drilled and the pin is included in the hardware bag. To get the proper spacing you
will need 1 collar and one washer on the inside of the axle and then one washer on the outside of the
axle as shown.
Take note of the washer and wheel collar as discussed above.
Now attach the assembled wheel and pant to the landing gear with the included #4-40 bolts and nylon
lock nut. Remember to slide the landing gear cuffs on before attaching both wheel pants as well. The
screws holes should face towards the ground.
This is what the finished assembly should look like.
Make sure the wheel is centered in the pant. If adjustment is needed, you can rearrange the washers
and collar to achieve it.
Next attach the landing gear to the plane with the included 4mm bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts.
Use the Phillips head 3mm screw to attack the cuffs to the landing gear. The cuffs can also be used to
hold the landing gear cover plate in place.
Using a 3-32 allen wrench, be sure to make the already installed #4-40 bolts are tight.
The 106” has a long tunnel suitable for canisters or tuned pipes. We provide the parts for a variety of
setups. Vented covers are included for the tunnel which can be installed if desired. If using stock
mufflers, the covering over the tunnel can be left intact if desired.
First, if desired, the entire tunnel can be blocked off with this blockoff plate. Install with epoxy glue
and wood screws.
Here are the included panels. There are various canister/pipe mounts included, drilling template,
throttle servo box, and covers for various places on the airframe.
Remove the covering over the vent holes on the cover plates as shown.
Install the cover plates over the canister/pipe tunnel as shown using wood screws. This is a picture
from the 104” Slick so the panels may look slightly different.
Your kit includes two different kinds of ball links. The top one is used in between the phenolic control
horns. The bottom one, with the integrated spacer, is used on the servo arm end.
Pushrods on the 106” are assembled in this way, with a ball link on each end of a stainless-steel link.
Note that the links have left hand threads on one end and right hand threads on the other. Look very
carefully to determine left and right before screwing on your links.
Because the links are opposite threaded on each end, you can use the included link wrench in your kit
to change the pushrod length after they are installed on the airplane.
The control horns on the EDGE are the double-phenolic fiberglass style. The horns for the elevators
and ailerons are identical. The rudder horns are longer, double-sided.
Elevator and Aileron horns are installed as follows:
Using sand paper or something similar, rough up the areas that will be glued as shown.
Locate the two slots and use a single control horn to make sure each of the two slots are cleaned out.
Doing so will make installing the fully assembled horn much easier.
Assemble the control horn as shown. Temporarily install in the control horn and cut out around the
base of it as shown. Next, glue in the control horn using either 30min epoxy, or Gorilla Glue. This
same process is used for the elevators and ailerons.
The 106" Edge uses a pull-pull system for rudder servo location. Pull-pull cables are already
installed in the fuselage for ease of installation of this system.
View of the contents of the rudder hardware bag.
Installing the rudder control horn:
Assemble control horn as shown.
Temporarily install the control horn, cut out around the base like we did for the aileron and elevator
control horns. Once the covering is removed below the base plate, leave the horn in place and attach
the other ball link. Next, push the control horn in the slot in one direction until you can see the holes
in the center. Apply glue to the area and push the arm back to center. Make sure it is perfectly
centered using a ruler. The pics below are from the 104” slick but accurately illustrate this process.
Once the glue has set, install the rudder onto the fuse using the included hinge pin.
Install rudder onto vertical stabilizer and fuselage, slide rudder hinge wire into rudder from the top
and down into the recess slot on top of rudder as shown.
Install collar onto rudder hinge wire at bottom. Trim wire as needed.
Pull-pull cables are already installed into your fuselage. Complete rear end of pull wires on both sides
as shown, using double crimps and looping wire through crimps as shown.
Cross the pull-pull wires once inside the fuselage to form an “X” and complete the front end of the
cables also with double crimps. A typical servo installation with one 3” double-sided offset arm is
shown. Make cables snug, but not “banjo-string” tight. Only snug is necessary. Match your servos
properly according to the instructions of your radio equipment.
Here is a pic from the 104” Slick that illustrates a dual rudder servo setup in the pull pull
configuration.
Install your elevator servo into the horizontal stab of your choice as shown. Yes, this will take some
time and you will need a long screwdriver. Be patient.
Parts included in elevator hardware bag.
Install the servo arm and linkage as shown. You may want to lengthen the slot depending on which
arm you choose to use. A 1.75” arm is used in this picture.
Install both carbon stabilizer tubes into fuselage, and slide stabs on all the way. Attach with 4-40
screws and washers as shown. If stabs are to be permanent, use loctite.
Included engine mounting hardware
The location of the motor mounting bolts are etched into the firewall, but a template is included as
well. This template is for DA twin cylinder engines and 3W.
Template is shown here. Use tape to hold in place. Hole size is 1/4”
Use large washers on the back along with the nylon lock nuts. Also shown here is the throttle servo
mounted. You can used the included wooden servo rings to give the servo mounting screws more
wood to bite into.
The long standoffs plus one washer should give you the desired spinner to cowl gap. An extra washer
may need to be added, or this washer can be removed depending on the spinner gap you prefer.
DA-100 and DLE-111 mounted with shorter standoffs.
Included throttle linkage parts. NOTE: The link length included is approximate, it works well on DA100 and DLE-111, for DA-120 which mounts farther forward, you may need a longer link for best
geometry.
Installing link.
NOTE: A choke servo location is supplied on the bottom of the engine box AND a separate box-type
servo mount is included in the kit to allow you to mount a choke servo in any location. However, we
use and recommend a simple manual pull-type choke linkage which extends through the bottom of
the cowl. This linkage is not included, but is easily make from a short piece of steel wire or an unused
section of pushrod.
Measure and cut the needed areas for your specific muffler setup.
In this build we decided to close off the tunnel and cut cooling slots in the bottom of the cowling.
Here is an example layout of the throttle and fuel line setup. WARNING: make sure that the fuel line
cannot come into contact with the muffler. In the picture above, we used flame retardant heat shrink
over the tubing just in case it would ever touch the muffler.
Next attach the bottom half of the cowling using the included #4-40 screws and washers.
Note: We also highly recommend baffles to direct airflow over large electric motors and twin cylinder
gas engines. Below is an example of what this baffling may look like. We recommend using balsa, or
Depron foam.
Here is an example manual choke setup using a spare pushrod.
Here is an example layout of the RXs and where the RX packs would go.
NOTE: There are three servo locations in each wing panel. You can use one servo in the center
location, two in the inner and outer locations, or three servos. Be *extremely careful* if using only
one aileron servo, most twin-cylinder engines 100CC and up produce enough power to blow back or
even a flutter a single aileron servo. Flutter can destroy your aircraft and is not covered under any
warranty. We recommend two heavy duty metal gear aileron servos per wing.
NOTE: Pull Strings are pre-installed in your wing panels to facilitate pulling servo leads through the
wing panel.
The wings are attached using a 6mm nylon bolt and spring clip. The first few times you install the
wings, the holes for the spring clips will be tight to the fuselage side. This is by design, use a small tool
to clearance this fit before installing the clip. After a few cycles this will settle in at the proper
clearance.
Optional wing tip accessories. Installed using #4-40 screws.
The canopy hatch is supplied with the floor pre-installed. The rear of the hatch is left open so you can
easily install a pilot head and cockpit control panel. When you have completed any work inside the
cockpit, use a small amount of CA glue to install the balsa rear plate onto the canopy hatch. The
canopy hatch is held onto the fuselage with 3mm nylon thumbscrews. These thumbscrews require no
tools to install or remove. Please inspect these screws frequently for wear and fatigue.
Throws High Rate
Ailerons – 45 degrees
Elevator – 55-60 degrees
Rudder – Maximum throw available without interference
High rate controls typically use 50-75% exponential
Throws Mid Rate (if used)
Ailerons - 30 degrees
Elevators - 30 degrees
Rudder - Maximum throw
Throws Low Rate
Ailerons – 15 degrees
Elevator – 20 degrees
Ruder – 30 degrees
These starting throws are approximate and will need to be tuned to suit the individual pilot.
The preferred CG for this plane is at 5.5” back
from the leading measured at the wingtip. This
is the recommended CG to start with and can
then be tuned for a specific style of flying.
3D Hobby Shop wishes you the very best with your new 106” Edge!
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