UltraCraft Kitchen Cabinets, Darlington cabinet Installation Tips
Below you will find brief information for Kitchen Cabinets. It is a comprehensive guide on installing Kitchen Cabinets. This document covers essential information for installing cabinets. It is essential for properly installing cabinets, ensuring they are plumb and level and securely attached to the walls. The document includes tips for attaching cabinets to each other and to adjacent walls, adjusting doors and drawer fronts, and installing decorative hardware.
Advertisement
Advertisement
Installation Tips
Important Please Read Before Going Further!
Installation of Kitchen Cabinets is NOT a Do-It-Yourself project for those without extensive experience in finish carpentry. If you are not a professional carpenter please seek help from a trained professional. This guide is meant to be used as a supplement to carpenters who are trained and familiar with cabinetry installation techniques, it is not meant to be a stand alone installation guide.
Version 1.0 - 2009
TABLE OF CONTENTS
• Terms and Tools
• Common Construction Details
• Pre-Installation
• Common Layout Heights
• Installation Tips
• Installation Steps
• Molding Tips
• Final Finishing Tips
• Hinge & Drawer Adjustments
• Special Darlington Installation Instructions
CABINET INSTALLATION
Cabinet installation requires special skills and tools. If you are uncertain of any part of these basic instructions, terms or lack the minimum listed tools, consult with your cabinet supplier for recommended professional cabinet installation mechanics.
An error during installation can result in costly repairs and delays.
TERMS TO KNOW
Level: A horizontal plane at right angles to the plumb.
Plumb: A true vertical line. If something is “out of plumb” it is not exactly straight up and down.
Square: All lines parallel and at 90° to each other.
Rail: A horizontal framing member of a cabinet door.
Stile: A vertical framing member of a cabinet door
Stretcher: A horizontal member of a cabinet case used to maintain square assembly. Also used to support and mount countertops on base cabinets.
Shim: A thin wedge of wood (usually a shingle) for driving into crevices between cabinets and walls to plumb cabinets, and between cabinets and floor to level cabinets.
Strapping: Wood strips, normally 1”x3”x8’, used to support wall cabinets during installation or used to construct a soffit above cabinets.
Scribe: Cutting or trimming a cabinet to follow the contours of adjacent floor or walls.
Soffit: The closed space between the top of the wall cabinets and the ceiling.
Stud: An upright framing member inside a wall or partition spaced 16” or 24” apart, center-to-center.
T-Brace: A temporary brace – constructed on site to be 54
1
/
4
” tall and 16” wide – used to wedge under wall cabinets to support them during installation.
COMMON INSTALLATION TOOLS
For professional results have the tools you need at hand and ready. Here’s a tip: save changeover time by having two cordless screwguns – one with a drill bit for predrilling screw holes and another with a screw tip.
• Power Drill
• Drill Bits
• Carpenter’s Levels (2’ & 4’)
• Carpenter’s Square
•Tape Measure (1”x25’)
• Step ladder
• Nail Set
• Extension Cord(s)
• Screwdrivers
(Regular & Phillips)
• Saws
(Hand, Power, Jig, Table & Miter)
• Sand Paper
• Block Plane
• Clamps
• Caulking
• Chalk Line
• Mitre Box
• Marking Tools
• Stud Finder
• Utility Knife
• Pencils
• Hammer
For a finished look and secure installation use joining and installation screws. Other options, such as drywall screws with a fierce thread pitch, may appear to be a quicker alternative but may result in screwheads not ending up flush with the material. Make sure screws adequately penetrate both parts when joining cabinetry together. Take precautions not to pierce exposed parts or adjacent cabinet interiors. Cabinet installation screws or similarly-sized screws should be used to affix cabinets to the wall. Predrilling of any screw hole is essential for a finished, professional look. Finishing washers and/or cover caps should be used to complete the installation.
2 1 ⁄
2
”
Joining
Screw
1”
1
CABINET INSTALLATION
Cabinet installation requires special skills and tools. If you are uncertain of any part of these basic instructions, terms or lack the minimum listed tools, consult with your cabinet supplier for recommended professional cabinet installation mechanics.
An error during installation can result in costly repairs and delays.
TERMS TO KNOW
Level: A horizontal plane at right angles to the plumb.
Plumb: A true vertical line. If something is “out of plumb” it is not exactly straight up and down.
Square: All lines parallel and at 90° to each other.
Rail: A horizontal framing member of a cabinet door.
Stile: A vertical framing member of a cabinet door
Stretcher: A horizontal member of a cabinet case used to maintain square assembly. Also used to support and mount countertops on base cabinets.
Shim: A thin wedge of wood (usually a shingle) for driving into crevices between cabinets and walls to plumb cabinets, and between cabinets and floor to level cabinets.
Strapping: Wood strips, normally 1”x3”x8’, used to support wall cabinets during installation or used to construct a soffit above cabinets.
Scribe: Cutting or trimming a cabinet to follow the contours of adjacent floor or walls.
Soffit: The closed space between the top of the wall cabinets and the ceiling.
Stud: An upright framing member inside a wall or partition spaced 16” or 24” apart, center-to-center.
T-Brace: A temporary brace – constructed on site to be 54
1
/
4
” tall and 16” wide – used to wedge under wall cabinets to support them during installation.
COMMON INSTALLATION TOOLS
For professional results have the tools you need at hand and ready. Here’s a tip: save changeover time by having two cordless screwguns – one with a drill bit for predrilling screw holes and another with a screw tip.
• Power Drill
• Drill Bits
• Carpenter’s Levels (2’ & 4’)
• Carpenter’s Square
•Tape Measure (1”x25’)
• Step ladder
• Nail Set
• Extension Cord(s)
• Screwdrivers
(Regular & Phillips)
• Saws
(Hand, Power, Jig, Table & Miter)
• Sand Paper
• Block Plane
• Clamps
• Caulking
• Chalk Line
• Mitre Box
• Marking Tools
• Stud Finder
• Utility Knife
• Pencils
• Hammer
For a finished look and secure installation use joining and installation screws. Other options, such as drywall screws with a fierce thread pitch, may appear to be a quicker alternative but may result in screwheads not ending up flush with the material. Make sure screws adequately penetrate both parts when joining cabinetry together. Take precautions not to pierce exposed parts or adjacent cabinet interiors. Cabinet installation screws or similarly-sized screws should be used to affix cabinets to the wall. Predrilling of any screw hole is essential for a finished, professional look. Finishing washers and/or cover caps should be used to complete the installation.
2 1 ⁄
2
”
Joining
Screw
1”
1
CABINET & DRAWER CONSTRUCTION
Wall Cabinet
Medicine
Cabinet
Tall Cabinet
1 ⁄
4
” Deep
11 5 ⁄
16
”
15
1
⁄
8
”
17 5 ⁄
8
”
21
7
⁄
16
”
24
26
1
⁄
2
”
30 1 ⁄
4
36
1
⁄
2
”
41 9 ⁄
16
”
”
4
1
⁄
16
” Deep
Shelves
30
1
⁄
4
”
36 1 ⁄
2
”
41
9
⁄
16
”
30
1
⁄
4
”
36 1 ⁄
2
”
41
9
⁄
16
”
22 3 ⁄
16
” Deep
Shelves
12
1
⁄
8
”
5”
Geneva
Geneva
Base Cabinet
Vanity Base Cabinet
15 3 ⁄
4
”, 17 11 ⁄
16
” Deep
2 1 ⁄
2
”
Vanity
Wall Hung Cabinet
15 3 ⁄
4
”, 17 11 ⁄
16
” Deep
71 3
3
⁄
4
”
79 ⁄
4
”
86”
91”
Fixed Shelf
21 11 ⁄
16
” Deep Drawer Box
34
1
⁄
2
”
22 3 ⁄
16
” Deep
Shelf
30 1 ⁄
4
”
16 1 ⁄
8
”, 19 1 ⁄
8
”
27 3
30 1
⁄
4
”
⁄
4
”
32”
34 1 ⁄
2
”
16
1
⁄
8
”, 19
1
⁄
8
”
23 15 ⁄
16
”
76”
84”
90 1 ⁄
4
95
1
⁄
4
”
”
8” minimum
18”, 21”
8
1
⁄
16
”, 10
9
⁄
16
”
Heights
2 5 ⁄
8
”
4
1
⁄
4
”
21
3
⁄
8
”
24”
15 3 ⁄
8
”, 18 3 ⁄
8
”
18”, 21”
2 5 ⁄
8
”
Notes:
Geneva Door Has 5/8” Overhang On Wall Cabinets.
Geneva Door Style Requires End Panels (pages 121) And C-Channel (page 136).
Wall Hung Vanities Require Field
Supplied Pedestal Base Support.
4 1 ⁄
4
”
4
1
⁄
4
”
2
5
⁄
8
”
9”, 15 3 ⁄
8
”, 18 3 ⁄
8
”,21
12”, 18”, 21”, 24”
3
/
8
”
On tall cabinets install platform first- level plumb and square- then install cabinet on top of platform.
For flush mount toe kick, pull platform from the wall and away from the side of the adjoining cabinet- block these voids.
Melamine Drawer
20 3 ⁄
8
” Inside Depth
Wood Dovetail Drawer
19 3 ⁄
4
” Inside Depth
3 3 ⁄
4
” Inside Height
3 1 ⁄
4
” Inside Height
5/8” Melamine All Four Sides
1/4” Fully Captured Bottom
75# Side Mount Glides or
Optional 75# Full Extension Side Mount Glides
Drawer Front Is Attached To Drawer Case With A 4mm Adjustment
Dovetail
Front & Rear
5/8” Solid Wood Dovetail All Four Sides
1/4” Fully Captured Bottom
75# Undermount Glides or
Optional 75# Full Extension Undermount Glides
Drawer Front Is Attached To Drawer Case With A 4mm Adjustment
18
Check cabinets for damage and verify the cabinets are indeed the correct style and finish before installing. Do not install damaged cabinets without calling your designer.
Check your designer’s plans for notes and the proper placement of cabinets. Verify all the cabinets and parts are there!
If a stacked molding is shown- verify with the designer proper placement of moldings.
Re-installing stacked moldings is very costly.
Before installing any cabinets- check your plans for finished ends and identify where they are.
Now is the time to verify your appliances- make sure they fit before installing cabinets!
Wall cabinets can have odd heights- verify where the top of your installation chalk lines are! For example: a 36” high wall cabinet is 36-9/16” inches
Designers in some cases order panels with only some of the edges finished. Be sure to verify which sides you need before cutting.
Find the touch-up kit. You will find it easier in some cases to touch up a part immediately after cutting it rather than waiting to the end. Place the kit where it is easily found.
Open the molding tubes by cutting the plastic plug out or pulling the plastic off with pliers- don’t waste time trying to remove the staples.
If some glue has leaked onto the inside of the cabinet, use a hard, plastic putty knife to scrape off- do not use a
METAL putty knife to remove glue it can scratch the finish.
If ¾ Inch shelves were ordered- they are in separate boxes to be installed at the end of the job
Packaging straps are easily removed by turning them over and peeling them apart at the seam
PRE-INSTALLATION CHECKLIST
Ceiling Line
Furring line
Measure And Lay Out Entire Installation Before Beginning
12" (+/-)
Optional nailer area
30 1 /
4
"
36 1 /
2
"
41 13
/
16
"
53 3 /
4
"
Soffit
Minimum Depth 13”
84"
1 /
4
"
95
1 /
4
"
30
1
/
4
"
36 1 /
2
"
41 13 /
16
"
19 1 /
4
"
Adjust Soffit Height
& Depth To Allow For
Moldings
Use moldings to fit top of wall cabinets to irregular soffit.
Bottom of wall cabinets
Typical countertop is
1
3 /
4
" thick
Top of base cabinets
34 1 /
2
"
Mark Stud Locations
16” or 24” Center-To-Center
Measure up from high point of floor and draw a level line at 34 1 ⁄
2
”.
#1 mistake is forgetting to use shims!
You can pull the cabinets out of square!
INSTALLATION TIPS
SHIMMING
Purchase a bundle of good-quality wood shingles.
They make the best shims. Screw through the cabinet, through the shim and into the wall or floor to insure a shim will be permanent. Should
CUTTING
Be prepared to make professional cuts for fitting of cabinet finishing materials, like fillers. Rough cuts can be made on a table saw with sharp finishing blades. Test-cut the material first to see what degree of surface damage can occur. Cut edges a shim slip or be knocked loose the cabinet will eventually sag or shift. Trim any exposed shim with a sharp utility knife blade or fine-toothed hand saw.
which will be visible in the room should be precisely scribed and trimmed with a sharpbladed saw. Make adjustments for final fitting with a belt sander or plane.
14
PRE-INSTALLATION CHECKLIST
Understand how the full-access cabinet system is designed to go together. The goal is a perfectly-aligned, plumb, level and square set of cabinets. Walk through the entire installation before proceeding. Every dimension must be reviewed to ensure that the set of cabinets going in will fit properly. Think ahead to the trades, like floor covering installation, that will follow cabinet installation.
All floor and wall sections need to be checked first for level and plumb, and second for any bowing or cupping. In order to make the installation plumb, level and square you may have to shim or scribe the cabinets.
�
Using a straight edge and level, find the high spot in the floor where base cabinets are to be installed. From the high spot, draw a level line 34
1
/
2
” on each wall where cabinets will be fastened. The top of the base cabinets will be mounted flush with this line.
�
From the 34
1
/
2
”-high level mark on the wall, measure up the specific distance for your size cabinets and put a mark.
The top of the wall cabinets will be mounted flush with this line.
�
Locate and mark studs with a stud finder. Draw plumb lines at each stud location.
�
Carefully check all cabinetry before the start of installation.
Confirm sizes, colors, finish and condition prior to removal of existing cabinetry.
As an option, attach a plywood nailer to the wall. This is installed by removing the sheet rock and replacing it with
1/2" or 5/8" plywood. This creates a fastening area for cabinets that fall between the studs.
�
Remove and label all doors, drawers and shelving. Store them away from the work area and extremes in temperature and humidity. The cabinet will be lighter during installation and decorative surfaces will be less likely to be damaged.
�
Assure the layout works, especially the vertical alignment of base and wall cabinets, and that appliances will fit in the designed openings.
�
Determine size and location of fillers to assure proper alignment and hardware clearance. A filler or starter strip is recommended next to the wall. This will allow doors and drawers adequate clearance to open fully.
�
Measure twice; cut once.
�
Turn off all water, gas and electricity to the work area.
�
If tall cabinets are in the design, check for vertical clearance for ceiling, soffit and light fixtures.
�
Remove all appliances from the kitchen.
�
Remove old cabinets.
�
Check for overhang of moldings. Determine how far crown molding or counter tops will overhang cabinetry.
�
Remove baseboard moldings and other objects on the wall where cabinets are to be installed. If replacing the floor, remove old floor covering.
�
Plumbing, electrical and heating systems, if affected, should be dealt with according to state and local building and safety codes.
Ceiling Line
12" (+/-)
Optional nailer area
30 1 /
4
"
36 1 /
2
"
41 13 /
16
"
Furring line
53 3 /
4
"
Soffit
Minimum Depth 13”
30 1 /
4
"
36 1 /
2
"
41 13
/
16
"
84"
1 /
4
"
95
1
/
4
"
19 1 /
4
"
Adjust Soffit Height
& Depth To Allow For
Moldings
Use moldings to fit top of wall cabinets to irregular soffit.
Bottom of wall cabinets
Typical countertop is
1
3 /
4
" thick
Top of base cabinets
34 1 /
2
"
Mark Stud Locations
16” or 24” Center-To-Center
Measure up from high point of floor and draw a level line at 34 1 ⁄
2
”.
Measure And Lay Out Entire
Installation Before Beginning
2
INSTALLATION TIPS
SHIMMING
Good-quality wood shingles make the best shims. Screw through the cabinet, through the shim and into the wall or floor to insure a shim will be permanent. Should a shim slip or be knocked loose the cabinet will eventually sag or shift. Trim any exposed shim with a sharp utility knife blade or fine-toothed hand saw.
CUTTING
Make professional cuts for fitting of cabinet finishing materials, like fillers. Rough cuts can be made on a table saw with sharp finishing blades. Test-cut the material first to see what degree of surface damage can occur. Cut edges which will be visible should be precisely scribed and trimmed with a sharp-bladed saw. Make adjustments for final fitting with a belt sander or plane.
BLIND CORNER CABINETS
Make sure a blind corner cabinet is pulled out from the corner the distance called for in your kitchen plan. If decorative handles are to be used, add a filler on the adjacent cabinet and pul the corner cabinet further out of the corner. This allows adjacent cabinet doors to open a minimum 90°.
Blind panels are designed to have 2
1
/
8
" of blind panel exposed when installed tight against the wall before pulling. A 3" filler and matching overlay are to be ordered with each corner to be used as an extension of the adjacent unit and cut as necessary.
SOFFITS
Soffits should be constructed and installed prior to installing the cabinets. Allow for adequate clearance for light fixtures and decorative molding.
Installing Without a Soffit
Measure up 19
1
/
4
” from the 34
1
/
2
” base-level-reference line.
Place a mark on the wall, and with a level and straight edge, continue around the room drawing a line parallel to the baselevel line. The bottoms of 30”-high standard wall cabinets will be installed along this line. You may attach 1” x 2” strapping along this line to help support the cabinets until they are securely fastened to the wall studs.
Installing With an Existing Soffit
If wall cabinets are to be installed against an existing ceiling soffit, use a straight edge and level to locate its low spot. Mark a level line at this low point. Tops of wall cabinets will installed along this line. Be sure that this mark will allow opened and closed cabinet doors to clear lighting fixtures, and overhangs have equal reveals.
Trim molding along the edge where the cabinets meet the soffit, and crown molding where the soffit meets the ceiling, not only adds wonderful detail but can conceal any irregularities in the soffit and ceiling. For slight irregularities, use a good-quality matching caulking.
MOLDINGS
Before installing detail trim, like moldings, inspect the materials for any inconsistencies. Use a professional-quality mitre saw and make several trial cuts to test the fit of the joint.
To nail the trim in place, use a professional air gun or pre-drill to avoid splitting.
Thermofoil or MDF moldings may be joined using molding glues, such as Mitre Bond.
TM
These offer professional-looking joints without nails. Check with local woodworking supply centers for this product.
Cuts in wood molding should be “colored” with a touch-up pen or stain in the same finish color as the cabinetry to minimize the effect of shrinkage should it occur.
If lighting is to be installed behind moldings, run a bead of caulking at the seam between the molding and the cabinetry.
This will prevent light from being seen through the joints.
DOORS AND DRAWERS
Before installing handles, knobs, pulls or other decorative
hardware, replace doors and drawers to their proper positions in your new cabinets. Adjust doors to perfect alignment using the 6-way-adjustable hinges. Adjust drawer heads to align perfectly with adjacent doors by loosening or tightening the screws inside the drawer box.
Standard margins between cabinet doors and drawer fronts is approximately 4mm or the thickness of two dimes. This space will vary slightly to accommodate each unique installation.
6-WAY ADJUSTABLE DOOR HINGE
Remove the cover cap if present.
Side Adjustments: Turn screw
“A” in or out to adjust the door horizontally from left to right.
Range: 4mm (5/32”)
B
A
Depth Adjustments: Loosen screw “B” one turn, adjust door
A B in or out to desired position, tighten screw. Range 4mm (5/32”)
Height Adjustments: Loosen both screws “C” on mounting plate, adjust door up or down to desired position, tighten screws. Range 6mm (5/16”)
FINISHING TOUCHES
Use a good-quality putty or caulking to fill nail holes and conceal joints. Using the proper touch-up materials and techniques will ensure a professional installation. Remember that quality of workmanship is judged by its smallest details.
3
Cabinets are to be installed without shelves, doors, or drawers left in them- you should have an empty box. Be careful to set these parts on something soft as not to damage them.
Remove all doors and drawers before installation. Number them for easy replacement by writing on a roll of blue painters tape and then sticking to cabinets. Write on the roll first before putting on the part to prevent imprinting your writing onto the parts.
Use connecting bolts or 1 ¼” Coarse Thread screws and a cup washer to connect the cabinets
You may find it to be an advantage to screw several boxes together at a time before attaching to the walls.
It is very common join to join the right and left cabinet to a corner cabinet and then install.
Line up the fronts- flush faces- then using hand squeeze clamps (usually two at a time) clamp in place.
After installing screws at the face, move the clamps to the next area to be screwed together. You may find it beneficial to have a long bar clamp to join certain area’s. Trying to screw cabinets together without clamping is very frustrating as they tend to push apart during the screwing and you will find it hard to get the sides tight to each other. NEVER USE NAILS to install cabinets to walls- over time they will pull out.
Attach side cabinets to corner base cabinets and slide into place. Use shims as necessary next to walls- do not pull cabinets out of square by forcing the cabinets to the walls without shims!
Corner bases are shipped with an adjusting foot at the back. Adjust BEFORE screwing the cabinet to the wall. It is very hard if not impossible to do after!
Thermofoil door styles are shipped with Heat-Shields. A diagram of how to install is shipped on the outside of the shipping tube. Not installing the heat shields properly will void the warranty against heat damage.
Roll Out Trays are adjustable- you may find it easier to do before the counter tops are installed because you have access down through the cabinet.
Loosen Tilt Tray screws before tops go on. Do not install decorative hardware through them- the trays are removable for cleaning into the dishwasher.
Hanging vanities must be supported at least 8” out from the wall under the bottom with solid support across the bottom. Failure to do so will cause the cabinet to fail when using heavy tops.
If the homeowner will be “heavy loading” the wall cabinets-add more screws to the installation. The whole back is a hanging rail.
Corner triangle wall cabinets use PP117 shelf clips and screw through the bottom into the shelf. For glass shelves silicone the shelves for permanent installation by applying a dab of silicone to the top of the shelf clip.
Identify your filler parts. The overlay profile fillers are sized to the cabinet doors- there are colored sub fillers that get screwed flush with the boxes. the profile fillers are installed on top of them. If your sub filler does not seem to be the right height leaving a small gap either top or bottom, chances are you have the profile filler not the sub filler!
When installing profile fillers, set the sub filler flush with the side of the cabinet. Scribe your profile filler to the wall leaving a space to the cabinet door. Remove sub filler and place 6 door bumpers on the back of the profile filler. Screw through the back of the sub filler into the profile filler. Reinstall the sub filler using the same screw holes.
Tall cabinets-level, plum and square the platform and then place the cabinet on it. The platform is setup for a recessed toe application. For a flush toe, pull the platform to the side of the cabinet box.
Decorative end panels are installed by clamping the panel on the cabinet side and installing drywall screws with cup washers. Be careful on raised panel door styles not to install screws so they blow through the face panels where the door is thinnest.
Wall Peninsula’s must have support either to the counter or to the ceiling- they cannot hang in mid-air alone!
Never install Peninsula cabinets as stand alone cabinets.
Columns have removable fronts- from the top of the column insert a flat blade screwdriver or stiff metal blade putty knife and pop it off. To re-install simply push it back on. Split posts and ½ posts can be screwed through the backs of the column faces so there are no fasteners showing in the faces.
Most decorative hoods have removable tops for field scribing. They are screwed on.
Decorative Hoods (DRH series) have a removable front face panel for access to trades.
When installing a Tilt-Out Range Hood-install it with the cabinets as you move along the run-do not leave a space and plan to install later-they are not adjustable.
Hoods are supplied to fit liner/blower units. Some after market hoods may require adding a panel inside the hood for mounting.
INSTALLATION STEPS
WALL CABINETS
Install wall cabinets before installing base cabinets.
It may be desirable to build a T-Brace from scrap or have a support mechanism to assist in hanging the wall units.
UltraCraft’s construction quality yields a heavier cabinet than a typical framed counterpart.
Cabinets must be installed with a minimum of two screws into each stud or every 16” on center with toggle bolts or wall anchors. UltraCraft 5/8” solid, flush, rabbeted back allows for additional screws to be easily installed if necessary.
Step 1: Measure from the corner of the room to the first stud mark and transfer this measurement to the inside of the cabinet to be installed in the corner.
Step 2: Mark the next studs and repeat as necessary.
Step 3: Before raising cabinets in place, drill holes through the inside of the cabinet between 3/4" and 4" down from the top and up from the bottom of cabinet at each stud location.
The UltraCraft cabinet features a full 5/8” thick captured back that allows you to place the mounting screws in the most convenient location. Drill from inside the cabinet to prevent visible chipout from the drill bit.
Step 4: Raise the cabinet in place aligning bottom of cabinet with the line previously drawn on the wall. See illustration.
Place any necessary shims. Drill pilot holes (through shims) into the wall through the holes made on the inside of the cabinet. Using cabinet installation screws, fasten the cabinet to the wall. Do not thoroughly tighten the cabinet to the wall until the adjacent cabinet is fastened and properly shimmed. Trim any exposed shims.
Step 5: When two cabinets are mounted to the wall, use clamps to hold the end panels tightly together aligning tops, bottoms and/or face edges. Connect the two cabinets with either a connecting bolt or a joining screw. To use a connecting bolt, drill a pilot hole from inside first cabinet through both cabinet walls into the next cabinet. Insert and tighten the bolt.
To use a joining screw, drill a pilot hole from inside the first cabinet through one cabinet wall and partially into the second wall. Do not penetrate through the second wall into the next cabinet. Insert joining screw.
Step 6: Continue installing wall cabinets next to one another in a similar fashion. After all cabinets are loosely secured to the wall and connected together, tighten the entire run to the wall. Check for level, plumb and square as you go.
BASE CABINETS
Step 1: Set the sink cabinet first if it is to be centered under a window. If not, begin with the base corner cabinet.
Step 2: Set next cabinet in place and use a clamp to align and join together. Drill pilot holes and join using connecting bolts or joining screws. Cabinets may be joined together before installing to the wall. Do not join more cabinets together than can be safely lifted.
Step 3: After all base cabinets have been joined together, use shims to bring the cabinets level with the 34
1
/
2
” mark on the wall and plumb against the wall.
Step 4: Predrill through the inside of the cabinet, through shims, into wall studs. Install each base cabinet with a minimum of two installation screws through the back of the cabinets into the wall studs. More screws may be used for larger cabinets.
Step 5: Before all base cabinets are securely fastened to the wall, check each cabinet for proper alignment. Tighten the entire run of base cabinets to the wall. Adjust doors and drawers using the six-way adjustable door hinges and the 2mm drawer cam.
Step 6: Predrill a hole through the top stretchers (horizontal members) of the base cabinets to attach countertop (watch drill depth and screw length). If setting a solid surface top, use manufacturer’s recommended setting material.
4
INSTALLATION STEPS
WALL CABINETS
Install wall cabinets before installing base cabinets.
It may be desirable to build a T-Brace from scrap or have a support mechanism to assist in hanging the wall units.
UltraCraft’s construction quality yields a heavier cabinet than a typical framed counterpart.
BASE CABINETS
Step 4: Raise the cabinet in place aligning bottom of cabinet with the line previously drawn on the wall. See illustration.
Place any necessary shims. Drill pilot holes (through shims) into the wall through the holes made on the inside of the cabinet. Using cabinet installation screws, fasten the cabinet to the wall. Do not thoroughly tighten the cabinet to the wall until the adjacent cabinet is fastened and properly shimmed. Trim any exposed shims.
Cabinets must be installed with a minimum of two screws into each stud or every 16” on center with toggle bolts or wall anchors. UltraCraft 5/8” solid, flush, rabbeted back allows for additional screws to be easily installed if necessary.
Step 1: Measure from the corner of the room to the first stud mark and transfer this measurement to the inside of the cabinet to be installed in the corner.
Step 2: Mark the next studs and repeat as necessary.
Step 5: When two cabinets are mounted to the wall, use clamps to hold the end panels tightly together aligning tops, bottoms and/or face edges. Connect the two cabinets with either a connecting bolt or a joining screw. To use a connecting bolt, drill a pilot hole from inside first cabinet through both cabinet walls into the next cabinet. Insert and tighten the bolt.
To use a joining screw, drill a pilot hole from inside the first cabinet through one cabinet wall and partially into the second wall. Do not penetrate through the second wall into the next cabinet. Insert joining screw.
Step 3: Before raising cabinets in place, drill holes through the inside of the cabinet between 3/4" and 4" down from the top and up from the bottom of cabinet at each stud location.
The that allows you to place the mounting screws in the most convenient location. Drill from inside the cabinet to prevent visible chipout from the drill bit.
Step 6: Continue installing wall cabinets next to one another in a similar fashion. After all cabinets are loosely secured to the wall and connected together, tighten the entire run to the wall. Check for level, plumb and square as you go.
Wall hung peninsula units must be supported to either the countertop or ceiling!
Do not hang cabinets just screwed to each other.
Step 1: Set the sink cabinet first if it is to be centered under a window. If not, begin with the base corner cabinet.
Step 2: Set next cabinet in place and use a clamp to align and join together. Drill pilot holes and join using connecting bolts or joining screws. Cabinets may be joined together before installing to the wall. Do not join more cabinets together than can be safely lifted.
Step 5: Before all base cabinets are securely fastened to the wall, check each cabinet for proper alignment. Tighten the entire run of base cabinets to the wall. Adjust doors and drawers using the six-way adjustable door hinges and the 2mm drawer cam.
Step 6: Predrill a hole through the top stretchers (horizontal members) of the base cabinets to attach countertop (watch drill depth and screw length). If setting a solid surface top, use manufacturer’s recommended setting material.
Step 3: After all base cabinets have been joined together, use shims to bring the cabinets level with the 34
1
/
2
” mark on the wall and plumb against the wall.
Step 4: Predrill through the inside of the cabinet, through shims, into wall studs. Install each base cabinet with a minimum of two installation screws through the back of the cabinets into the wall studs. More screws may be used for larger cabinets.
Please note:
Blind Corner Cabinets are 3” smaller than specified size. Example: BLB39 is 36” wide.
Stand alone base peninsula cabinets are not recommended.
If they must be used, additional bracing is required to stop the cabinet from being pushed sideways and collapsing
4
MOLDING TIPS
Sub rail is to be pulled almost flush with the door faces. If you inspect the bottom edge of the sub filler- you will see where it is finished and where raw wood shows- raw wood should never show after installation.
Always plan all your molding cuts first- know how much stock you have. Check your wood grains and match pieces for longer runs so they look good together. Because each piece of molding can have a slighter tone color due to base wood color- pair pieces on color too.
5 ½” Architectural moldings need to be cut with a 12” compound mitre saw.
Standard splay angles don’t work when trying to cut the molding laying flat.
Always cut into the face of the molding with the saw.
On dark finishes- sometimes you get a better looking joint when using the touch up pen on the backsides of the mitre cuts at the face before joining.
When using a wax crayons, use a lighter to first soften the wax. Then buff off the excess wax with a soft cloth.
Always check your panels for finished edgebanding and where the finished sides go.
Mitre bond sets in approximately 20 seconds and is intended for MDF moldings only.
Cut and dry fit all moldings first. Using the bottle, apply a thin line away from the face of the molding,
Spray the other end liberally. Then on a flat surface carefully align and join the moldings- hold for 20 seconds. Mitre bond on wood works only temporarily. You must micro nail after using Mitre bond on wood moldings- failure to do so will probably cause the molding to fall apart at a later date.
Install moldings either pulled out slightly from sides of cabinets or pushed back in slightly- try to not line moldings up flush with sides- create a shadow lines!
Toe kicks have end caps-check before cutting.
FINAL FINISHING TIPS
Do not reinstall doors or drawers unless you plan to adjust them right then. Unadjusted doors and drawers will in some cases bother the homeowners who do not understand they still need to be adjusted.
Doors have 6 way adjustable hinges- see next page for alignment instructions.
Drawer adjustment – be sure all drawer heads are adjusted before installing Deco hardware!
Loosen the two screws at the back of the drawer heads and re-align if necessary.
Deco hardware should go through the drawer box. If it is being installed above the drawer box, add extra drywall screws to the box.
The Darlington inset drawer head also has a white block under the drawer box for an in/out adjustment.
When drilling for Decorative Hardware- always open the doors and check for swing before drilling- don’t ruin a door assuming you know which way it opens.
For glass doors, heat the gasket in the microwave if available for 20 seconds to make it soft and pliable.
When installing VISION decorative glass in to doors- use silicone only and allow glass to dry 24 hours before standing doors upright.
High Gloss Doors- Remove peel coat before installing decorative hardware
Perth Amboy door Style-
Hardware is installed on the inside rail!
Verify with your designer where it mounts.
Using a standard hardware installation template will ruin every door!
Low voltage light transformers have six slots- however UltraCraft uses 20 watt bulbs so only three light fixtures may be plugged into a transformer.
Euro Style Legs (ELEG) are adjustable by screwing the black foot in and out.
Always remove drawer slide hardware before cutting granite tops in place for cook tops.
Granite dust will destroy the ball bearings in the hardware.
Darlington Installation Guide
Please read through this entire document prior to the installation of
Darlington cabinets.
Cabinet Attachment and Installation
Darlington cabinetry should be installed according to generally accepted practices for installing Frameless cabinetry. It is particularly important that all cabinets be hung plumb and level due to the tight tolerances for beaded inset cabinetry.
UltraCraft recommends that all doors and drawers be removed prior to installation and marked appropriately so that they can be reinstalled after the cabinet boxes have been hung. (See instructions at right.) It is not necessary to remove the beaded frame from the cabinet box.
Please note that the beaded inset frame on the Darlington cabinetry is a decorative item and lends no structural integrity to the cabinet box itself. Therefore, it is important that cabinets are attached through the end panels, not the decorative frame.
WARNING
Attachment of cabinets to each other and to adjacent walls should be accomplished by screwing through the cabinet end panels. DO NOT attach cabinets to each other or
to adjacent walls via the decorative beaded frame.
Doing so will render warranty null and void.
Door Attachment and Adjustment
Doors are attached inside the cabinet to the cabinet side with hinges and hinge plates. Hinge plates are extra thick to provide clearance around the frame and are attached with screws into the 5mm holes in the cabinet side. Hinges are attached first with two screws into pocket holes in the door and then to the hinge plates.
Doors should be adjusted and aligned prior to the installation of decorative hardware.
Door Removal
Release the lever under the hinge arm.
Door Installation
Place the hinge on the mounting plate and push the back. “Clip” sound confirms secure attachment.
Side-to-Side Adjustment
Turn the front screw to move door left and right (±2mm).
Frame Attachment and Adjustment
Each frame is attached to the cabinet box by four L-shaped brackets and may be adjusted for proper alignment. For side-to-side adjustment, loosen the screws which attach the frame brackets to the frame. The frame can be moved side-to-side 2mm in each direction.
Once adjustments are made retighten screws. For height adjustment, loosen the screws which attach the frame bracket to the cabinet box.
The frame can be moved up or down 4mm in each direction. Once adjustments are made retighten screws.
Frame
Bracket
Cabinet Top
Frame
Adjusting
Screw
Cabinet
Side
Height Adjustment
Rotate cam screw on mounting plate to move door up and down
(±2mm). On non-cam mounting plates, loosen screw, adjust door and retighten screw.
Depth Adjustment
Turn rear spiral-tech cam screw to move door in and out
(+3mm, -2mm). For CLIP, loosen rear screw, adjust and retighten.
9/10/2006 Page 1
Darlington Installation Guide
Please read through this entire document prior to the installation of
Darlington cabinets.
Cabinet Attachment and Installation
Darlington cabinetry should be installed according to generally accepted practices for installing Frameless cabinetry. It is particularly important that all cabinets be hung plumb and level due to the tight tolerances for beaded inset cabinetry.
UltraCraft recommends that all doors and drawers be removed prior to installation and marked appropriately so that they can be reinstalled after the cabinet boxes have been hung. (See instructions at right.) It is not necessary to remove the beaded frame from the cabinet box.
Please note that the beaded inset frame on the Darlington cabinetry is a decorative item and lends no structural integrity to the cabinet box itself. Therefore, it is important that cabinets are attached through the end panels, not the decorative frame.
WARNING
Attachment of cabinets to each other and to adjacent walls should be accomplished by screwing through the cabinet end panels. DO NOT attach cabinets to each other or
to adjacent walls via the decorative beaded frame.
Doing so will render warranty null and void.
Door Attachment and Adjustment
Doors are attached inside the cabinet to the cabinet side with hinges and hinge plates. Hinge plates are extra thick to provide clearance around the frame and are attached with screws into the 5mm holes in the cabinet side. Hinges are attached first with two screws into pocket holes in the door and then to the hinge plates.
Doors should be adjusted and aligned prior to the installation of decorative hardware.
Door Removal
Release the lever under the hinge arm.
Door Installation
Place the hinge on the mounting plate and push the back. “Clip” sound confirms secure attachment.
Side-to-Side Adjustment
Turn the front screw to move door left and right (±2mm).
Frame Attachment and Adjustment
Each frame is attached to the cabinet box by four L-shaped brackets and may be adjusted for proper alignment. For side-to-side adjustment, loosen the screws which attach the frame brackets to the frame. The frame can be moved side-to-side 2mm in each direction.
Once adjustments are made retighten screws. For height adjustment, loosen the screws which attach the frame bracket to the cabinet box.
The frame can be moved up or down 4mm in each direction. Once adjustments are made retighten screws.
Frame
Bracket
Cabinet Top
Frame
Adjusting
Screw
Cabinet
Side
Height Adjustment
Rotate cam screw on mounting plate to move door up and down
(±2mm). On non-cam mounting plates, loosen screw, adjust door and retighten screw.
Depth Adjustment
Turn rear spiral-tech cam screw to move door in and out
(+3mm, -2mm). For CLIP, loosen rear screw, adjust and retighten.
9/10/2006 Page 1
Drawer Front Adjustment
Drawers should be adjusted and aligned prior to the installation of decorative hardware.
Side-to-Side Adjustment
For side-to-side adjustments loosen the two screws which attach the drawer box to the drawer front, adjust drawer front and retighten attachment screws.
Height Adjustment
For height adjustments loosen the two screws which attach the drawer box to the drawer front, adjust drawer front and retighten attachment screws. Or (for upward adjustment only) use the drawer locking device located under the dovetail drawer box: press down on latch, then push latch towards back of drawer.
Fixed Frame Doors
On certain cabinets such as Diagonal Corner Wall cabinets and very narrow cabinets such as a Tray Base 9” wide, the doors and frames will be one piece. This is called a “fixed frame” door and both the beaded frame and door open together. Please see the illustration below.
A True Frame is attached to the front of the cabinet box and is flush on all four sides. A Fixed Frame/Door is not flush and allows a 1/16” reveal of the cabinet box. There will be a 1/16” space between the frame and moldings placed above or below the cabinet. Also, when a cabinet with a Fixed Frame/Door is placed next to a cabinet with a
True Frame the frames will not align.
Depth Adjustment
Turning the screw gives up to 4mm adjustment (outward only).
TRUE FRAME
FRAME ATTACHED TO CABINET FRONT
TRUE FRAME
FIXED FRAME/DOOR
FRAME ATTACHED TO DOOR
FIXED
FRAME/DOOR
1
/
16
”
Tilt Adjustment
Rotate tab on rear hook.
1
7
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
FRAME DIMENSIONS
1
7
/
16
”
1
7
/
16
”
1
9
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
Once doors and drawer fronts have been completely adjusted and aligned, decorative hardware can be installed.
1
7
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
1
/
16
”
If you have any questions or concerns, please contact your dealer or local UltraCraft representative.
Page 2
Advertisement
Key features
- Detailed installation guide
- Tips for plumbing and leveling
- Information on attaching cabinets
- Door and drawer front adjustment
- Installing decorative hardware
