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FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
FB Jets/ Feibao
T33 Construction Manual
Written by Tyson Dodd in Collaboration with Fei Bao Jets
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
DISCLAIMER
THIS IS NOT A TOY. This is a high-performance miniature aircraft, capable of high speeds and
damage to life, limb, and property. The manufacturer and its distributors cannot control how you
assemble this model, what equipment you use to fit it out, or how you fly it, and can assume no
liability whatsoever for any damages that may occur when you fly your aircraft. By assembling this
model, you are agreeing to indemnify and hold blameless the manufacturer and/or his agents
from any and all torts and liability associated with the use of this product. Please inspect all parts
before beginning assembly.
If any parts appear to be suspect, contact your dealer or the manufacturer for repair or
replacement BEFORE you begin. Once you have assembled the aircraft, you are the pilot in
command and assume any and all responsibility for the use of the model and any damages that
might occur by flying or attempting to fly this aircraft. R/C model jets require a high level of skill in
both their assembly and their flying. If you do not feel confident in either your building or flying skills,
PLEASE seek assistance from more experienced modellers. It is a wise idea, no matter what level of
skills you possess, to have a second experienced modeller go over your installation after assembly.
A second set of eyes may spot a problem you have missed. If you have not flown a model like this
before, it is HIGHLY recommended that you get an experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden
flight. Very often, the first few seconds of a maiden flight are critical until the aircraft is trimmed out,
and having an experienced pilot at the controls can make the difference between a wrecked
aircraft and once that enjoys many hundreds of flights. Be sure to select a suitable field for
flying...take the time to find a large paved runway if at all possible, especially for test flights, until
you feel comfortable getting the aircraft in and out of smaller grass fields.
Before you begin keep this in mind as you proceed:
Look at EVERY assembly step you finish, and ask yourself:
"Is this going to crash my airplane?" A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and this is a high
performance aircraft that will be very intolerant of sloppy assembly techniques. Even the smallest
component is important and can cause the loss of your airplane, so take the time to do things right.
Or redo them if they are wrong. Careful work will result in a long lasting plane that gives you years
of pleasure, one loose component could result in the complete loss of the aircraft and all the
components inside it, and someone can even get hurt. So pause every once in a while when
building it and double-check your workmanship.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Table of Contents
DISCLAIMER........................................................................................................................................................ 2
Introduction ....................................................................................................................................................... 4
Adhesives ........................................................................................................................................................... 4
Construction....................................................................................................................................................... 5
Preliminary steps ........................................................................................................................................... 5
Step 1: Check Forward Fuselage .................................................................................................................... 6
Step 2: Prepping the Fuel System .................................................................................................................. 6
Step 3: Tank Installation................................................................................................................................. 7
Step 4: Nose gear ........................................................................................................................................... 7
Step 5: Nose Doors......................................................................................................................................... 8
Step 6: Vertical Fin and Rudder ..................................................................................................................... 9
Step 7: Horizontal Stabilizers .......................................................................................................................11
Step 9: Speed Brake Setup ...........................................................................................................................11
Step 10: Engine and Pipe .............................................................................................................................11
Step 12: Main Landing Gear and Doors .......................................................................................................12
Step 13: Aileron and Flap Servos .................................................................................................................13
Step 15: Cockpit ...........................................................................................................................................15
Step 16: Radio Programming .......................................................................................................................15
Step 17: Weight and Balance .......................................................................................................................15
Step 18: Test Flight.......................................................................................................................................15
Equipment Installation Photos.....................................................................................................................16
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Introduction
You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of ARF technology and factory testing with
the new manufacturing processes implemented by FB Jets. While there is not a lot of building to do
in comparison to traditional modelling techniques, there is enough to keep you busy for quite a few
evenings. Even if you have assembled other ARF jets, we highly recommend following our
assembly sequence and procedures anyway. Chances are it will save you a lot of time or having
to redo sections given some specific sequences and will prevent you from running down dead
ends, and perhaps remind you of a few small things that might end up saving your aircraft.
I have assembled this manual to try and keep things moving wile you are awaiting for glue to dry
before you can proceed to the next step. Just because the model is almost completely built does
not mean you can rush through the final assembly. This is still an airframe that required minor
assembly and general complete building techniques. You need to employ fine craftsmanship
every step of the way, turbine models are critical. Keep this in mind with everything you do, every
part you install...look at the work you just did, evaluate it critically, and ask yourself "is this going to
potentially crash my airplane? I continually ask myself during the building of any jet and if there is
any doubt about the work you have done, please back up, and re-do it properly. We have
included as many pictures as possible to give you an idea of the ultimate location of components
within the airframe you minimise any balance work for perfect CG.
Adhesives
The correct adhesive to use for all procedures is Loctite Hysol 9462. This is a very strong white epoxy
that is thixotropic. "Thixotropic" means it does not run at all, but stays only where you put it. It is
infinitely superior to regular epoxy, even slow-setting epoxy, for our purposes, because of this
characteristic. Regular epoxy will run downhill with gravity as it dries, taking it away from where it is
supposed to be. A good example is in the hinges or control horn ...using regular epoxy, a good
portion of the glue will migrate down away from the hinge into the inside of the wing as it dries, and
you won't even know it is happening. Hysol stays where you put it. The downside of Hysol is it takes
overnight to dry properly, but we have tried to arrange things to keep you busy while waiting for
glue to dry.
We also highly recommend that you only use a proper Hysol dispensing gun, and the long-type
mixing nozzles where needed. You can buy a complete Hysol setup with a gun, nozzles, and two
cartridges of glue from your dealer for approximately $60. Consider it a great investment; the glue
is the best you can use to finish you kits from FB Jets. One cartridge should be plenty to assemble
your Large FB Jets T33, however depending on how you prefer your setup; it is a good idea to have
spare available.
Working with pneumatic systems the T33 uses pneumatic brakes and retracts if you have chosen
this feature from FB Jets. Some kits have the option of electric retractable undercarriage. If you
follow a few tips, you should have very reliable, leak-free operation. Neatness counts. All airlines
should be secured to the airframe to keep them from flopping around or getting kinked. Use tie
wraps for this.
The other very important thing is to cut off the end of each airline dead square before installing it
on the nipple. This is VITAL. You can either purchase a professional tubing cutter from your dealer
(they are approximately $10), or you can make up a little jig to hold the airline and keep a sharp,
new razor blade perfectly upright as you cut. Either one works, just ensure that all ends of all airlines
are cut off dead square. Make sure all airlines are pushed ALL THE WAY onto their nipples. They
should not need to be secured otherwise, but you can add fine wire safety wraps if you like. Make
sure all left and right matching airlines are the same length, particularly the brake lines, or you will
get uneven retraction or braking action. It's worth taking the time to get everything pneumatic
right the first time, as having your landing gear fail to retract is not THAT bad, but having it fail to
deploy can really ruin you day and the paint on the bottom of your model.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Construction
Preliminary steps
The following setup is recommended by FB jets for all kits that they manufacture and request the
modeller to conduct these quick and simple steps to not only make your build easier, but cleaner.
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Clean and inspect all parts. Inventory them against the parts list at the end of the manual
and notify the kit supplier of any missing components as soon as possible.
If the paint scheme you have selected is glossy, it is recommended that you apply a coat
of wax. This will help resist dirt, stains and fingerprints during construction, and will provide
some limited protection against errant glue.
Vacuum out the remnants of packing materials that remain in the fuselage.
While the kit is comprehensive, there are additional parts required, as follows:
• Recommended Servo List (JR or Hitec) We have used a mixture for this build however it is
not recommended to use servos less than 14kg torque
• Elevators: (2) 8411 or 8911
• Aileron: (2) 8411
• Rudder: (1) 8411 or 8911
• Nose Steering: (1) 8411
• Retracts: depends on retract and door solution selected (a 5 function valve can be utilised
on this aircraft)
• Brakes: (1) 351 or equivalent, or an electronic brake unit in a combination unit
• The abovementioned servo list is ideal. However given the quality of the kit manufactured
by FB Jets, there is sufficient room for all servos required for this build.
Other Parts
• Intairco UAT
• Fuel tank vent bulkhead fitting
• Festo fuel shutoff valve *2
• Wire twist tie (optional)
• Blue Loctite
• Red Loctite
• Glues: Thin CA, 30 minute epoxy, Hysol,
• Electronic gear sequencer, I have used REECB Sequencer and 2 dual action valves for the
retracts, doors and brakes
• Or Brake valve
• Batteries, regulator and switch
• Matchboxes, Powerbox, Smartfly EQ10 or Spectrum Power Safe (I have utilised a JR 12
channel RX with a Power box competition dual regulator device to assist with simple and
quick servo matching for this build.
• Servo extensions (length may vary, depending on receiver placement) This Model is one of
the largest T33’s on the market. You will need a number of quality extension leads for your
servos given the length and wings span of the model.
General Construction Notes:
The order of construction may be changed to suit your personal preference; however, the model is
more easily worked in a tight space if work is completed on each fuselage section before they are
joined. The tail surfaces must be attached before the aft fuse is joined to the forward fuse, as the
pipe must be in place during this step and it blocks access for wiring.
The retract system doors operate in two different ways. The main gear doors and the large nose
gear door open, the landing gear cycle down, and the main gear doors close again and the nose
wheel door stay open. It is also ok to maintain the main gear doors open when the gear is down to
save an additional air valve.
You will likely need to match twin rudder, twin flap and twin elevator servos for this model
This may be accomplished with servo reversing “Y” harnesses, JR Matchboxes, the Smartfly EQ10, a
Competition Powerbox or equivalent.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Step 1: Check Forward Fuselage
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Remove the fuel tanks from the fuselage.
Also remove the forward component boards. Now would be a good time to put a coat of
paint on these parts if you would like to protect the wood surfaces.
Vacuum and thoroughly clean the fuselage completely including light sanding on the
mould joins to ensure there are no internal burrs (unlikely given the construction process).
These are painful if they “bite” you during building and could potentially cause an air leak
to tubing or damages to servo wires etc.
If the nose gear was installed at the factory with bolts and lock washers, check these for
security now. I also recommend checking the functioning of the nose gear now with a
hand pump. Make sure the extension and retraction of the nose wheel is smooth before
final installation. The Nose steering however needs to be set up before final installation with
your chosen servo.
Once the nose gear and servo is done, install but place a very small dab of thin CA into the
screw hole first. A small toothpick helps limit the amount of glue applied if you don’t have
limiting tip on you CA bottle.
Check the nuts and connections of the gear doors. If required place a small amount of
thick CA on the nuts to secure.
Repeat this step for the three nuts that attach the door cylinders to their respective
mounting blocks.
Check all door hinges for security.
Step 2: Prepping the Fuel System
Disassemble and inspect the tank cap hardware. The process used to cut the tubes may leave
behind a rim that constricts fuel flow and could result in excess tank pressure and leakage. Given
the optional use of three tanks that we have opted for be sure to pressure check and fill prior to
installation in your model. Every care is taken at construction, however sometimes a pin hole leak
within the glass weave may occur. Checking this prior to installation will save cleaning and time for
pulling the tanks back out of your airframe.
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Loosen the Philips head screw and remove the stopper assembly from the tank.
Use a small, round Perma-Grit rat tail file or a knife to remove the excess metal. You will
need to inspect the ends of all tubes and ensure that there are no loose filings.
When finished, make sure to blow out the metal fragments and clean up any sharp edges.
While the components are apart, check the Tygon pickup line for equal lengths in both
saddle tanks. They should be long enough to reach the back of the tanks without being so
long as to restrict their ability to move to the top of the tank when the aircraft is inverted.
Allow a small amount of play to allow the tubes to stretch slightly over time.
You should also notch the vent tube with a small file to provide for continued air flow should
the tube come into contact with the top of the tank.
Make sure the bends to the vent tubes applied at the factory have not restricted airflow to
any significant extent. Also, check the Tygon for any nicks or cuts and secure to the tubing
with wire ties before re-assembly.
Reassemble and mark the tank for vent and fuel for later reference.
Once the tanks are back together, they should be leak checked before installation in the
aircraft. Connect extra lengths of fuel tubing to the fuel and vent lines and submerge the
tank in water. Pinch off one line and gently pressurize the tank by blowing into the other,
looking for signs of air bubbles. If the tank shows evidence of air leakage around the vent
cap, tighten the Philips head screw and check again. If you have a stubborn leak, you can
re-tap the inner plate for a slightly larger 6/32 cap head bolt.
Additionally, you can connect them in either series or parallel (whichever is your preferred
method) and use your field pump to fill the tanks. Leave them sit for a couple of hours and
inspect to ensure no leaks are evident.
If you find any leaks you can repair these by two suggested ways. Internal mix a thin mixture
of 30min epoxy and place inside the tank. Rotate tank until the epoxy has coated the
inside area of the leak identified. Place the cap back into the tank and pressurise with a
compressor quickly then release. This will force epoxy into the leak and leave to cure.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
External clean the area down with e sanding dremel. Place a thin layer of epoxy over the
leak area and then lay some thin fibreglass cloth over the leak area. Using your fuel pump,
draw the air out of the tank so that the glass and epoxy are drawn into the leak from the
outside then release and allow it to cure.
Step 3: Tank Installation
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Attach the Tygon tubing to the main tank. Exercise care not to break the tanks while fitting
the Tygon. Slowly wiggle the tubing into place. Wire tie for security.
As photo 1&2 shows, the tanks fit in nice and tight.
You will need to make a front tank support from scrap ply and fit to the base of the fuse for support.
If you are going to make the saddle tanks easily removable, using hysol glue a mounting board to
them so they can be secured to one of the mounting formers.
The front main tank needs to slide to the rear of the front bay right up against the intake ducting as
pictured so that the scale cockpit can fit later.
• Temporarily install the engine bypass and thrust tube for fit so that the saddle tanks fit easily
• This will also assist in the stabilisation of the trust tube and help to centre this with the thrust
line of the engine.
• Connect the fuel tank and UAT together. As I prefer to run my fuel tanks in series when using
multiple tanks, the sequence of filling of tanks is as follows:
1. Intairco UAT
2. Front Tank.
3. Left hand saddle tank
4. Right Hand Saddle Tank.
• Check the position of the tanks once more with the engine bypass in place. When satisfied,
tack glue the tanks in pace with silicon, hot glue of goo.
• If you prefer to establish the tanks in parallel first:
o Check the fuel lines for nicks and cuts as you proceed through the next steps.
o Connect the fuel pickup from the front tank to the optional UAT or to the fuel pump.
I have located the UAT at the front of the component board which has worked well
with the balance of the model as the UAT should always be full.
o IMPORTANT if you are going to establish the saddle tanks in parallel, ensure ALL the
lengths of fuel tubing are identical length for both tanks to both the “t” pieces for
the vent and fuel in and the clunk pickups. This preciseness here will ensure that
both saddle tanks drain at the same rate.
Step 4: Nose gear
To ensure a smooth operation nose steering and retraction function on your T33 nose wheel, it is
ideal to pull the front nose retract from the airframe to work on it. In doing this your can check the
retraction function of the nose wheel assembly with ease and add silicon stray if needed for
prolonged smooth operation. As the T33 leg retract backwards, a smooth functioning nose leg is
important as it will need to push against the air pressure on extension.
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Install your nose wheel steering servo. Remember not to use the rubber grommets and
depending on the servo you use, you may need to remove the fillet at the secure points
with a sharp knife. Connect the arm of the servo to the steering arm of the nose wheel and
centre with the nose wheel extended.
Connect your servo to your RX, centre the servo and while it is powered up, check the
retraction of your nose wheel with a hand pump if needed.
When you are satisfied with the function of the nose retract and the servo arm etc, re-install
the front retract into the airframe and check function again with a hand pump.
Remember to not use rubber grommets and make sure to use Loctite on the screws.
If your servo has a reinforcing fillet on it as previously indicated, on the mounting tab, you
will need to remove it with a razor knife to allow the servo to sit flat and have direct line of
torque to the nose wheel steering.
When satisfied, use a small drop of thin CA on each clevis to lock it on to the threaded rod.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Step 5: Nose Doors
It will be helpful at this point to ensure that you are happy with the function of the nose door. The
manufacturing process on this model is very high and we did not have to change or tighten
anything at all with the nose wheel gear doors.
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Refer to the general construction tips for an explanation on gearing up the air systems.
Install two air tanks in the space in front and below the component compartment, we
found that they tucked into the space beside the front nose wheel bay.
Photo 1 – air tanks placed in forward fuselage. Location of your air tanks is optional.
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Use several dots of silicone glue such as Zap-a-Gap-a-Goo. Don’t overdo the glue,
however, as you may want to remove the tanks in the future.
When the glue is dry, run air system lines to the tanks. In our T33, all air and fuel fill lines are
run to the front hatch of the airframe together with the fuelling points etc for easy of service.
Layout the air system components on the front or rear board and then bolt the board into
place with four small wood screws. Your layout on this area is optional.
Run air lines to the nose gear and nose door cylinders. A little patience and good skills with
a forceps will be required. Test each line as you go with a hand pump for leaks. It will also
help to follow a colour coding scheme for future line identification and trouble shooting.
Be sure to locate the main undercarriage air tubing clear of the engine and with the
modification of the bypass protection of the air tubes to the main undercarriage can be
achieved.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Photo 2 – air lines colour coded and run to the centre area of the component boards. The Speed
brake air lines have been run to this spot too.
Step 6: Vertical Fin and Rudder
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Before attaching the aft section of the fuse, the vertical fin and horizontal stabilizers need to
be attached and the wires run from the servos that are fitted into the tailplane and fin for
the elevators and rudder. This will make it easier.
In most kits, the hinges are preinstalled in the control surfaces, but must be glued into the
flight surface. This however is not true for the rudder and fin and elevators as FB Jets has
utilised the screw pin method. The servos for the rudder and elevator fit nicely into both the
fin and the tailplane making it easy for you to install the servo arms and pushrods together
with the control horns.
Trial fit the rudder into the vertical stab and makes sure the screw pin is securely fitted.
When we installed the rudder servo, we marked the cut in the fin that we needed to make
for the rudder servo arm to move freely.
Trim and sand to achieve the maximum throw your servo arm will allow.
Trial fit the servo into the fin ready for the final attachment. Be sure to power up the servo
here and centre it before completing the final fit. Position the brackets such that the spindle
of the servo faces forward when installed in the servo well. Do not use the rubber grommets
supplied with the servo, but bolt it directly to the brackets. Use Loctite as required.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Photo 3 – Rudder Servo and push rod.
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Run the servo wire out of the bottom of the vertical stab.
Trial fit the phenolic control arm in the slot routed in the rudder at the factory. You may
need to use a small carbide cutter to enlarge the slot slightly for a good fit. Be careful to
NOT route through the other side of the control surface. A small piece of tape wrapped
around the cutter at the proper depth will help prevent a mishap.
Roughen the surface of the control arm where it will glue into the rudder with 100 grit
sandpaper.
Tape around the slot with masking tape and apply a liberal amount of Aeropoxy or Hysol
into the slot to ensure it is secure but with no glue on your surfaces.
Locate lock clamp in the fuse rear section and slide the fin into place while routing the
servo wire through the hole. Tighten the clamp.
Install a servo extension of the proper length to reach your receiver and secure the
connection with a large piece of heat shrink or tape.
Photo 4 – additional front screw to the front pin of the vertical stab.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Step 7: Horizontal Stabilizers
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The horizontal stabs build up in a similar fashion to the vertical stab in terms of the servo
installation. Install your servos in the space provided and modify slightly as required if your
selected servo does not fit. Repeat all steps, including the installation of the servos.
Before installing the servos, use your Matchmaker or equivalent to centre the servos and
match the positions of the control arms.
Remember that the servos are mount reverse but need to move the same which required
either a matchbox servo matching in the powerbox.
If you are using JR Heavy Duty Arms and the positions don’t match, try rotating one arm 180
degrees before deciding which half of the arm to trim off.
Install the elevator servos into each tailplane and connect to the control arm attached to
the elevator mechanism.
This is an important step to ensure that the installation is tight and all screws and fasteners
are tight and installed with Loctite.
Do not use the rubber grommets as they may cause flutter if there is too much play.
Attach a 36" heavy-duty 22-gauge extension to each servo. Heat shrink the connections for
safety.
Copy these steps for the other elevator and then centre and match both elevators to the
RX system.
Run the elevator servo extensions from the rear of the fuse forward. I tend to run these
extensions and the rudder extension lead through a Teflon tube for heat protection from
the thrust tube. With the ceramic Teflon tubing, the servo wires will be protected from heat
and abrasion for the life of the model.
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With control arms in the vertical position and the control surface centred, adjust the
linkages to the proper length for both elevators and the rudder.
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With the two elevator servos activated through the Matchmaker, set the length of control
linkage such that the elevators are equally cantered and attach. Make sure not to over
tighten the bolts such that the arm binds.
Step 9: Speed Brake Setup
• I setup the speed brakes at this stage. Do this while before you install the engine.
• Setup the air ram connected to your dual action air valve. I used a dual action Xicoy air
valve for simplicity, however the manual valve supplied with the kits is perfect for this
function. Using this valve, operate the air ram to ensure all function is working.
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Re-install the air ram into the holder and mount as pictured above and secure.
Attach it to the Speed brake function and test the ram using the manual valve to setup.
Check that the Speed brake opens and closes nicely with appropriate pressure to stay
closed.
Step 10: Engine and Pipe
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Clean the fuselage thoroughly before installing the engine. If you need to trim the intake for
engine clearance, use a vacuum while you work. This will reduce the chance of a foreign
object finding its way into your engine later on the first run;
Drill a hole in the thrust pipe mounting tabs at their mid-point.
Position the pipe on the rear of the lower bypass. The tabs are slightly offset to one side of
the pipe this is the top.
With the pipe fully on the lower bypass, and the mounting tabs equally spaced from the
top, drill holes through the engine block mount and attach/secure the pipe tabs to the
block. If needed glue additional ply blocks for greater support of the pipe.
Note that for additional support we have placed two Stainless Steel pop rivets through the
front of the thrust tube and the rear of the by-pass.
Install the engine now on the mounting rails. Using a Kingtech k170, we did not have to
make any adjustments at all to the engine mounting rails. If you are putting a Jetcat in your
model, the additional Jetcat engine rails are provided
These were perfect and the engine centred perfectly in the trust tube.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Photo 5 – mounting thrust tube, bypass and engine.
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Adjust the location of your engine to obtain the clearance specified by the manufacturer
between the exhaust cone and the pipe mouth. It is likely it will extend into the intake.
Shim the engine as necessary to make sure it is centred in the pipe and is aligned with the
slope of the pipe from front to rear.
When you are satisfied, bolt the engine to the side frames with wood screws. Remove the
screws and coat the thread holes with thin CA. This will harden the wood.
Connect service lines to the turbine and bolt permanently in place (photo 7).
Complete the installation of engine components and mount where necessary depending
on your engine.
Remember to leave clearance for the cockpit above the component board at the front of
the fuse.
Resist the temptation to hide wires away under the component boards, as it will make
future maintenance more difficult. Keep things neat but accessible.
Step 12: Main Landing Gear and Doors
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Extend main gear and unscrew and move to once side.
Put a drop of thin CA into each screw hole to strengthen the ply in the area of the bolts.
If not already done, attach air lines to the main gear and check for leaks with a hand
pump.
Attach brake line and check for operation of the brakes and leaks with a hand pump.
Attach air lines to the door cylinder from inside the fuse if not already accomplished. Test for
leaks.
Put a drop of thin CA on the small nuts at both door cylinder bolt locations to reduce the
risk that they loosen over time.
Route all air lines to the nose and ensure they cannot be damaged by other components.
Reinstall main gear. Check for smooth operation with a hand pump.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
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Wire tie the brake line to the main strut and check operation of the gear once more to
make sure brake line has adequate length and clearance.
Photo 6: Main gear
Step 13: Aileron and Flap Servos
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Remove the aileron servo covers. Mark the inside front of the covers so you will know how to
orient them for reassembly.
Attach the aluminium L brackets to the servos as you did for the tail surfaces. The servos will
face in opposite directions and the servo spindle is positioned toward the front of the wing.
Using your receiver or JR Matchmaker, power box or the like, find servo neutral and attach
the heavy-duty servo arms to obtain matching positions. If you are using a double-sided
arm, you may find that rotating the arm 180 degrees achieves a better match, so complete
this step before trimming off the unused side of the arm.
The ailerons will already be fitted to your plane with the screw pin hinging. A small flat
screw drive and do this then fingers.
Position the servos onto the mounting tabs, paying attention to the position of arm relative
to the control horn slot marked on the control surface. Using great care not to pierce
through the top of the wing, drill and bolt the servos in place.
You will need to use an extension on the aileron servo lead.
Make sure to tape or heat shrink the connection for security and that this connection does
not come loose.
The servo covers shouldn’t need trimming given the high level of manufacturing.
Repeat for the other wing.
Measure the throws for ailerons. Make sure you can achieve 25-30 mm in either direction on
the ailerons. Carefully trim away the gap cover if needed to get the appropriate travel.
Also make sure there is no binding at the ailerons.
With a small carbide cutter, route out the slots for the control horns.
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
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Rough up the mounting surface of the control horn, tape around the slot and glue the horn
into each control surface with Aeropoxy or Hysol.
Set the wings aside for the glue to cure. Double check to make sure there are no
fingerprints or excess glue on the wing surfaces. (cigarette lighter fluid will help remove
fingerprints)
When the glue has cured, install the linkages.
Insert the wing tips into the mounting holes. When the pins are fully inserted, tighten the
locking clamp bolts through the small holes in the top of the fuse. If you are installing
navigation lighting do this now before you permanently install the wing tips.
Photo 7: Servo installation
Photo 8: Servo installation
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Step 15: Cockpit
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Trim the edges of the cockpit area so that the tubs sit inside the canopy. We fitted the
scale cockpit supplied into the canopy to make start-up easier and preparation easier.
We suggest trial fitting the cockpit to the fuselage and trimming where necessary.
Make sure it is smooth to install and remove as once you secure into the canopy this is
important.
Once happy with the fit of the cockpit, place it inside the cockpit. Place a small amount of
Hysol or the like along the join of the cockpit and canopy.
Place a large sheet of gladwrap or similar flexible think material over the entire cockpit area
of the fuse. This will protect the fuse from any glue on the cockpit when you install the
canopy to the fuse.
Now install the fuse so the right shape of the Cockpit and canopy is achieved while this
glue is drying.
The use of about a dozen rare earth magnets will also assist in this process.
Make sure that the cockpit tubs are clear of any electronic gear sitting on the component
boards.
At this point, you may wish to paint the tub, instrument panel and glare shield with flat black
paint.
Step 16: Radio Programming
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Complete the installation of your radio gear and batteries. In our T33, the switches were
mounted in the front access hatch while the RX, ECU shut down, valves, ecu etc. are locate
on the front component board.
The front board has the air equipment and the UAT however the fill valves are located on
the front access hatch area;
Batteries were mounted to the nose forward and above the front nose wheel so they can
be removed for charging if required. We used 2* 4000mAh 7.4v Lipo’s for the RX and a 7.4
4000mAh for the Turbine ECU.
Set your radio for the following throws:
Ailerons: 25-30 mm in either direction
Elevators: 25-30 mm in either direction
Rudder: max throw allowable for nice controlled knife edge manoeuvres
Step 17: Weight and Balance
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Test fuel the aircraft. Check for leaks, then drain.
Set your CG. For the initial flights, the plane should balance slightly nose down with the CG
which resulted in approximately 220mm from the LE, fuel in the UAT only, with the gear
down.
Adjust CG as necessary.
Step 18: Test Flight
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Before any test flight, make sure all systems are fully tested on the ground and there are no
known problems. The gear is essentially important to ensure that it is functioning correctly.
Try to conduct test flights under ideal weather conditions, at a flying facility that offers
plenty of “outs” in case of problems. The T33 will enjoy any wind but a head wind on take
off and landing will make for very slow controlled landings and smooth short take offs. We
deactivated the speed brakes for a first flight and actually found that this model by FB jets
slows up superbly even without speed brakes.
During the first flight, spend the majority of time on slow flight and approaches. Your primary
goal in the first few flights is to get a good feel for throws, CG and most importantly, the nice
controlled landing characteristics of the aircraft.
This is a heavy aircraft, so make sure to carry sufficient power to touchdown to avoid wear
and tear on the airframe. Land with a little speed. The T33 will slow nicely and maintain
good forward speed and the T33 will respond to the final flare very well.
Ailerons = 25-30mm 0% expo
Elevator = 30mm up 10% expo – 30mm down 10% expo
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Equipment Installation Photos
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Equipment, including fuelling tubes, switches, air fill, air gauges and remote ECU board were
all installed in on the component boards to have as much weight forward as possible. Also,
the wiring for the ECU and for the servos was run down opposite sides of the fuselage to
avoid interference. The receiver was mounted on the front component board. This is a
good location for both conventional receivers and 2.4 GHZ units, due to the central
location, high mounting point and absence of carbon fibre in the area. If you are using
multiple 2.4 receivers, this general location allows for additional units both fore and aft. The
positioning also allows for the shortest run of extension wires.
Parts List
• Forward Fuselage and Component Boards
• Aft Fuselage
• Engine Hatch
• Canopy
• Horizontal Stabs, Elevators (2)
• Vertical Fin, Rudder
• Wings, Ailerons (2)
• Main Landing Gear (2)
• Nose Gear with Integrated Steering Bracket
• Cockpit Tub, Rear Instrument Panel
• Dual Wall Exhaust Pipe with Mounting Tabs
• Upper and Lower Bypass
• Linkage Assemblies (8)
• Air Support Kit
• Hardware Kit
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
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