RCU Review: AeroWorks 50CC Pitts Python QB ARF

RCU Review: AeroWorks 50CC Pitts Python QB ARF
 RCU Review: AeroWorks 50CC Pitts Python QB ARF
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Research Airplanes Research Boats Research Cars Research Helicopters Research Engines & Motors Research Radio Equipment Contributed by: Mike East | Published: May 2008 | Views: 59074 |
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Review by: Mike East Email Me Flight pics and Video by: Bob Scheppele
First Look
Photo Shoot
Flight Report
Contact Information
Here we go on to the next chapter the folks at Aeroworks mission
to provide us with the fastest building and yet still some of the
highest quality ARF's in the business.
In this article we will review the new 50CC Pitts Python QB ARF
from Aeroworks, and what a QB it is.
401 Laredo St Unit "D"
Aurora, Co 80011
Phone: (303) 366-4205
Final Approach
Window Media Player
Aeroworks Pitts Python
What I could see as soon as I started unpacking was the same
high level of quality, yet found that it was possible to have an even
more complete QB than the Pythons predecessors.
I found an even more predrilled, preglued, precut and
pre-thought-out assembly than the last time I put together a QB.
Ultracote covering Sturdy construction Very complete
accessory kit.
Pre installed cowl and
Pre hinged surfaces.
I don't want to give it away too soon and at this point I honestly
have not built the thing yet, so let's get started and see if its as
good as it looks.
Name: 50CC Pitts Python ARF QB
Hard to make
advertised weight Price: $729.95
Wingspan: 70 in
Wing Area: 1725 sq in (129 sq dm)
Length: 72 in total with spinner
Flying Weight (advertised): 17-18 lb
Flying Weight: (actual)19 lb
Engine: 50-60cc gas
Engine Used: Desert Aircraft DA50
Battery Used: Duralite Batteries
1-2000mah 7.4V Ignition; 1-4800mah Servos and Receiver
1-2000mah 7.4V Ignition; 1-4800mah Servos and Receiver
Radio Used: Futaba 9C with TM7 2.4GHz module
Servos Used: Hitec 5955's Channels Used: 8 total - (2)Elevator, (4)Aileron, (1)Rudder,(1)
Throttle with Standard Throttle Servo
Props Used:Vess Props , 22B
Items Used To Complete
8 Channel Radio (Minimum) w/ 7 high torque metal gear
servos and 1 standard for the throttle
(7) High Torque High Speed Metal geared servos
(7) 1 1/4' or 1 1/2" servo arms depending on your preference.
(1) Minimum 2700mah servo/receiver battery packs and (1)
1500mah ignition battery pack.
(9) 6" Servo Extensions
(2) 24" Servo Extensions
(2)12" Y Harness Extensions
ZAP CA Adhesives
Pacer 5 and 30-min Epoxy
Various Standard Shop Tools
You can see in the first picture that the commitment to quality was there. Both boxes were lined in
plywood to protect the precious cargo within.
Upon opening the boxes you find the contents safely tucked away and wrapped in foam. Every
piece was totally pristine with not a blemish anywhere to be found.
The fuselage is a beautiful work of art and the attention to detail is apparent everywhere you look.
All of the pre installation is clean and straight with no loose or missing parts to be found.
Even the cutouts in the Ultracote covering are razor sharp and precise.
You can see below that as usual this QB comes with a pre installed cowl that requires nothing more
than bolting into place. The Pitts does come with a baffle cover for the cowl that can be cut as
needed to provide the proper ventilation for your engine.
The stabs are not airfoiled but they are beautifully constructed and arrow straight. The Robart type
hinges are pre drilled and installed, but must be removed and then reinstalled and permanently
glued in place once the stabs have been installed on the fuselage.
Through the rest of the first look you can see all of the beautiful hardware that is provided with the
setup. All of the hardware is in the kit including a smoke tank, all the foam, Velcro and zip ties. The
only thing that I did not find were the firewall bolts for the engine standoffs but that's not a big deal
and allows me to pickup the grade 8 socket head bolts that I prefer to use anyway.
You can see all of the pushrods and metal control horns that are provided with all the necessary
hardware to install.
The landing gear is ready to bolt on. All the holes are drilled for you, the shafts are cut to the
proper length. All you have to do is bolt it up!
The tailwheel is a nice aluminum construction. All of the hardware is provided.
As a final touch, Aeroworks provides us with a deflection meter for setting up throws and a large
protractor to aid in the setup as well.
In typical Aeroworks fashion this is about as complete of an
assembly manual as you are going to see. There is no
shortage of pictures and detail in the manual that is provided
on Compact Disc. Just pop it in your PC and go or you can go
to the Aeroworks site and download the manual in PDF
Click on the pic above to go
to the manual.
Let's go check it out!
Time to complete the stab and rudder installation: 1 hour. For this step I will need my Pacer
30 minute Z Poxy. This will be used for gluing the stab and vertical fin in place as well as
installing the Robart hinges.
The first step is to locate the stab and slide it carefully into the fuselage. You must also install the
lower wing for alignment purposes. With the wing installed, slide the stab into place and measure
from each wingtip and adjust the stab position until the measurements match exactly for each side.
Once you get the stab located dead center and even, use a sharpie or pen to mark the point
where the stab meets the fuselage on each side. Then slide the stab out partially and place a thin
coat of 30 minute Epoxy on the bare wood of the top and bottom of the stab. Carefully slide into
place, realign with the pen lines and allow to dry. Be sure to check the stab to level as the glue
dries, it should line up parallel to the wing when viewed from the tail of the plane.
Next install the vertical fin. Lightly coat the tail post and vertical fin hole in the fuselage with 30
minute Epoxy. It does not take much, just a very thin coat is plenty.
Simply slide the vertical fin into place, wipe away the excess epoxy from the covering with
denatured alcohol or 91% rubbing alcohol and allow to dry.
Finally all you have to do is install the elevators and rudder using the provided Robart hinges.
This is a very simple process. Apply a drop of Vaseline right on the hinge point of each Robart
hinge being careful not to get any on the shaft, just a tiny bit on the hinge point is all you need.
Work the Vaseline into the joint by flexing it a few times. Then simply apply a very light coat of 30
minute epoxy in each hole for the surface and on the hinge shaft so that a tiny bit oozes out as you
slide the hinge into place.
Now as the hinges come together push them together as tightly as possible but wipe away the
excess glue from the Ultracote with a paper towel wet with Alcohol as it oozes out. Once the hinge
gap is tight, wipe the hinge line with alcohol to remove any epoxy until the hinge line is nice and
clean. As the glue begins to set be sure that the hinge line remains tight and also that the hinges
are moving. The Vaseline that you applied earlier should ensure that you have nice free hinges.
Once the glue is almost dry, carefully place a tiny droplet of Acetone right on the hinge being
careful not to overdo it. The acetone will cut any residual epoxy from the hinge. Just be certain that
the Acetone stays on the hinge only or it could loosen the glue on the hinge shafts in the surfaces.
Then reapply a drop of oil and you are ready to go!
Time to install all the landing gear 30 minutes.
This went extremely quickly. To install the landing gear the first step is to remove the forward
cover from the underside of the fuselage.
Once I got that done all I needed to do was locate the hardware pack and get my Pacer blue
thread locker. The landing gear will only mount one way so it's impossible to put them on
backward. Simply line up the bolt holes, apply some thread locker and secure the gear into place.
The next step is to bolt up the shafts and install the wheels. Simply bolt the shafts on and alight the
outside hub so that the flat sides of the hub are perpendicular to the ground. This will align the
wheel pants when the time comes.
Next just slip on the inner wheel collar and let it float free. Slip the wheel on and mark the outside
edge of the wheel hub so you can grind a flat on the shaft for the outer wheel collar to rest.
Finally using blue thread locker, screw the outer collar onto the shaft to secure the wheel into
place. Line up the wheel pants, use the supplied hardware and thread locker to secure. That's all
there is to it.
Now for the tail wheel. The holes are already drilled in the bottom of the fuse and rudder for the
tailwheel which is a really cool detail. Therefore all I had to do was harden the holes with a little
Zap Thin CA and screw it and the T bar for the rudder into place.
The final step is to install the springs in the tailwheel. All you have to do is slip them onto the T and
give them a couple of wraps and trim the excess.
Then line up the tailwheel and rudder and attach the spring to the tailwheel on one side. When you
attach the second spring be sure to line up the rudder with the fuse and the wheel with the rudder.
The springs should be just barely tight, not too tight.
Here you can see how nice the gear looks. Everything is clean and sharp and most importantly,
well constructed. The wheel pants and sturdy but light and should last a long time.
Looks great!
This plane has a neat feature, it comes with tail wires. They are pretty light and only add about an
ounce or so of weight in the tail. As you can see they are functional and provide support to the tail
section of the plane.
The installation is really easy. The holes in the stabs and rudder are predrilled through and the
hardware is provided for installation. Best of all they are already assembled and the correct length!
Once the wires are installed you can easily adjust the tension with the turnbuckle adjusters. They
are smartly designed so that as you rotate the wire on both ends the wire loosens or tightens
without twisting.
Looks cool and functional too!!
Estimated Time: 2 Hours. Here is what the control surfaces assemblies looks like. Everything is
good quality, solid hardware that is more than enough to get the job done. The double control
horns are nice and light and will provide a nice precise connection to the servo.
All the ball connectors are provided as is the hardware for installation.
As you can see, the holes for all the horns are predrilled to make the setup as easy as possible
and to ensure perfect alignment and geometry.
The rudder control horns are held in place by nut and bolt per the instructions I secured each of
the nuts in place with a little Zap CA glue.
Here is a look at the basic tail layout. Simple but effective should work great!
As is true with all the servos, there are pull strings already in place at the exit locations. Just tape
the string to the end of the servo lead and pull it on through.
Here are a few pics of the installation. The pic on the right above is of the connector for the rudder
pull pull. Just thread them halfway into the ball connector and you are ready to install the provided
pull pull cables.
The elevator setup is very straight forward and just super easy to set up. As with the rudder,
during setup tape the surfaces at the neutral position so that they cannot move. Turn on the radio
system with the servos at center and adjust the pushrod length and connect to the servo arm using
the provided hardware. If you follow the instructions it's pretty much impossible to mess up.
Its important that you remember to install the supplied tapered bushings on the servo arm
connections as shown in the above right picture to ensure a proper fit and smooth operation of the
Below is a look at the aileron setup. Very straight forward, simple installation. All of the hardware you see is provided and fits perfectly. I
kept it simple and got all of my electronics stuff from Duralite. As you can see they don't just do batteries and powerboxes, they have
extensions and just about anything electrical related that you can think of that you will need to power up your plane.
That's about it for control surface setup. Moving right
Desert Aircraft 50CC Engine
Go to the DA Website The Famous "DA 50"
Engine installation: 2 hours.
This installation is very simple
since the plane is designed and
built around the DA 50. There is
a template provided so all we
need to do is align the template
on the firewall and drill the
mounting holes.
The DA 50 has become the staple engine for
airplanes in the 15-18 pound class. With
unbelievable reliability, rock solid performance
and incredible ease of operation the DA 50 has
rightfully earned its place at the top of the list
among engines in its class.
Key Features
Next, install the DA 2.5"
Standoffs on the firewall using
1/4-20 hardware and Blue
Thread locker.
For 50CC models Proven Workhorse in 50CC class Easy to start and run
Walbro carburetor
Great DA Service
Includes everything needed for installation Displacement: 3.05 ci (50 cc) Output: 5.0 hp Weight:
2.94 lbs (1.33 kilos) Weight w/Standoffs: 3.13 lbs (1.42
kilos) Bore: 1.6771 in (42.6 mm) Stroke: 1.3779 in (35
mm) Length: 6.7 in (170 mm) Specs
Type: 2 - Stroke
Displacement:3.05 ci (50 cc)
Output:5.0 hp Weight:2.94 lbs (1.33 kilos) Bore:1.6771 in (42.6 mm)
Stroke:1.3779 in (35 mm) Length:6.7 in (170 mm) RPM Range: 1000 to 7400
Warranty: 2 Year
Muffler Type: canister or standard muffler
Download the Manual in PDF Format- Click Here
I used fender washers and lock
washers on the inside of the
firewall for reinforcement and a
little added security without
adding any substantial weight.
With that done simply bolt the
engine to the standoffs using the
provided hardware and again
some Blue Thread locker.
Be sure that you get enough thread locker on the threads and they are properly tightened to ensure
they that don't loosen up after a while.
The next step is to install the throttle servo. The instructions guide us on how to use the supplied
hardware for the throttle linkage but this does require a little silver soldering. If you don't like to
solder you can make your linkage up with a long turnbuckle, carbon fiber or your favorite technique.
If you go with the ball connectors on each end of the linkage you will have to remove and drill the
hole in the control arm on the carb to fit whatever screw size you use, or you can use a clevis.
The next step will be to connect the ignition and battery setup. There are places provided for all of
the above already setup for us on the plane. Just locate the tie down slots, use the provided Velcro
and secure into place!!
We are almost done. The last step is to install the choke arm that will extend out in front of the cowl.
This is a very simple and easy setup. All you have to do is secure a zip tie around the standoffs and
then feed the pushrod in between. Finally tighten the setup against the pushrod by installing small
zip ties above and below the pushrod. Snip it off so that when the choke is pulled out it will be just a
little short of the backplate and most importantly, the prop!!
The final pic above is of the DA50 prop drill guide. They sure do make getting the holes nice and
straight a lot easier.
Fuel Tank Installation Time- 15 minutes. Here is the tank installation. The plane also comes
with a fully equipped smoke tank, but in the interest of weight savings I am going to forego using
the smoke tank in this setup. As you can see the tank is setup for a 2 line system and so I will be
using an Excel Fueler dot from Slimline products.
There is really nothing to it, just assemble tank stopper assembly which includes a couple of
solder on barbs that need to be silver soldered into place on the ends of the fuel pickup tube.
Once you get the tank assembled just slip it into place and secure using the provided foam and zip
ties. There are supposed to be supplied grommets for installing the vent tube out of the fuselage
but mine were missing. No big deal, I just used a tried and true method of getting the vent out of
the bottom of the plane and it was on to the next step.
the bottom of the plane and it was on to the next step.
For this review I wanted a muffler that was a little quieter and may possibly offer a few more
RPM's so I decided to go with the JTEC large inverted pitts muffler from www.jtecrc.com. This
muffler has a slightly larger diameter can than a standard Pitts but it should be a good bit quieter
and make the plane compliant at field with noise restrictions.
The really cool part about this muffler is that it's a custom built muffler made to fit this plane. That's
the way JTEC does it. You call em' up and they get a couple of measurements from you and if a
standard cut fits then great but if its a little too close they will custom fit the muffler so that it will lay
right in under the motorbox with just the right fit.
Had I gone with the standard version the regular off the shelf version would have worked but since I
went with the large, the fit was a little close so Al had to slightly tilt the header down to clear the
motorbox. The nice part was that this only took a day or so which is pretty typical. That's right, even
though it's a custom fit it will still ship out about as fast as an off the shelf version.
You can see that it's a really nice looking muffler and it fits nicely in this plane which does not have a
real large diameter cowl. I did have to trim out a little more to get it to fit, but as you can see it's still a
great looking muffler and should perform well.
After a few flights here is my take. This is a great muffler. It is markedly quieter than the other Pitts
mufflers at the field and it does seem to have less restriction than a standard muffler. Right off the bat
I was getting 6900 or so RPM's on the 22B on a brand new DA which is great. So the mufflers does
what its supposed to do and that is reduce noise and it looks like it might provide a little more exhaust
flow. Time will tell if we steal a few more RPM's once the engine is broken in.
Cowl installation time: 2 hours total. The cowl is already ready to mount so all we need to do is
cut the cowl and install the faux radial front to fit our engine. This requires makings a small
opening in the faux front and trimming the underside of the cowl to accommodate the engine and
The first step is with the muffler removed to make a template to cutout the underside of the cowl.
This is very clearly laid out in the instruction manual and is very simple to do. The first step before
you install the engine is to find the center of the cowl and mark it on a piece of tape. This will be
used later in the process.
Once you get the engine installed there is a simple layout plan for a template that is used to locate
the point where the cowl needs to be trimmed for the engines head. After you have plotted out the
template just tape it to the underside of the fuse, scribe the outline of the head and then remove
the template.
Next you draw out a box on the template that will make room for your Pitts muffler. Once the box is
drawn you will need to draw lines that intersect with the engine cutout and then cut out for the
muffler on the template.
Now just tape the template to the cowl using the center reference you made earlier and mark and
cutout the cowl with a cutting disc on your handy dandy Dremel tool.
Next is the installation of the faux radial engine front. But before you install you need to remove a
section at the bottom to provide airflow to cool the engine. As you can see as the pics progress, I
opted to create another small opening at the base of the cowl to make sure that the engine gets
plenty of airflow. Better safe than sorry.
Once you get the cut out done, there is a jig provided that helps to make the lineup a little easier.
All you have to do is tighten the jig around the cowl and faux front and center it up. Then I simply
All you have to do is tighten the jig around the cowl and faux front and center it up. Then I simply
glued it from the inside with ZAP thick CA. Rocco also recommends in the instructions that you
place a thin bead of silicon around the inside of the front, but I am going to take my chances and
trust that I glued it well enough that I don't need the silicon to save a little weight in the nose.
Now you are ready to install the cowl, but as you do you will need to mark a drill a hole for the
choke lever to stick through the front. I just drilled a 1/4" hole. Once you get the cowl bolted on you
can trim the choke lever to the optimal length and after you grind a flat, install a collar to give you
something to hold on to manipulate the choke.
as you can see this is a very nice installation that is really simple. Just take your time and there is
nothing to it.
Once again I have gone to my friends at Tru Turn for the perfect spinner for my plane. Not
surprisingly they were able to come up with a nice blue anodized P51 spinner to match this plane.
All I had to do was tell them what prop and what engine I intended to use and within a few days I
had exactly what I had asked for. As usual it was a perfect fit so all I had to do was slide it in place
and bolt it up. You just cannot ask for better service or quality than these guys, you really can't.
For the prop I decided to go with a VESS 22B (essentially a 22x10) propeller. I have found that
these props are reasonably quiet and they turn up very well. Once the engine is broken in we will
move it up to a 23" version.
While I was waiting on the muffler and electronics to come in I decided to go ahead and install the
graphics package that Kirbys Custom Graphics is making for Aeroworks to go along with this
The cost of the package is $99, but if you know Dennis Kirby's work this is a steal for the quantity
and quality of what you get. Included are an incredible number of single and multiple layer,
multiple color, and some reflective graphics that really make the plane look sharp that include your
name to go in the pilots name location on the plane.
Just so you are not intimidated I thought I would show you how these work. What you get are
single colors and where applicable a second color that just lays over the background color.
All you need to do is decide where you want to put it (locations are layed out for you in the
instruction manual and in the graphics package itself). Next carefully remove the backing and the
vinyl will stick to the frisket paper that allows you to place it on the surface. There is a spray that
you can get from Kirby's that will allow you to work with the vinyl after it is on the surface. Just
follow the instructions on the bottle if you go that route. Okay, the edges of the frisket paper are cut
specifically to help you line up the graphic in line with the lines of the plane. So carefully lay the
vinyl in place on the plane and run your fingertip or a piece of the backing over the decal to make
sure that it is all stuck just leaving an edge loose so you can peel it off.
Then start to sloooooowly pull the paper back upon itself, do not pull straight away. As you peel
the paper back watch the edges and make sure that as you peel everything is sticking. Once the
paper is removed carefully go over the decal again and make sure that it is down tightly.
As you can see these are some really spectacular looking vinyl graphics that add a lot to the look
of the plane. Remember that you do not have to use them all and even if you do not you are still
getting your moneys worth without a doubt. The finished product is really nice.
www.duralitebatteries.com Powerbox 40/16 Evolution Key Features
This is me taking the leap to
A123 technology. Duralite
is now selling A123 battery
lightweight, 4.05oz, 115g Compact Design 3.66" x 2.3" x .75" Can be purchased for Nickel or Lithium Batteries
Failsafe switch comes with Powerbox
2 - onboard 20amp switching regulators
16 servo inputs
5 outputs channels
Isolates the receiver from possible RF noise
Fully Buffered Signal Line for Each Servo
2 remote low voltage warning lights
5 pulse amplifiers
Digiswitch (Ignition) Key Features
Built in 5.5 volt regulator
Will handle up to 5 amps load
External LED Voltage indicator
Extremely lightweight
Fiberglass filled plastic case virtually indestructible
Excellent for ignition applications
These are really neat packs
that have an incredible
discharge capability that
exceeds what your servos
will ever ask for. Plus the
packs are stable and do not
require the care that other
Lithium packs require. You
can also see in the pic
above that the packs are
equipped with a circuit
board that will shutoff the
charge when the correct
peak voltage is reached. All
you do is plug it into your
7.4V Lithium charger and
let it go. The pack will stop
the charge at the right time.
Go to the Duralite Website! - Click here
Here is a look at my setup. I have 2 A123 packs and a 7.4V Lithium Ion pack for the ignition. The
system will be centered around the Duralite Powerbox 40/16 Evolution. This system has 40 amp
capability and has room for 16 inputs from 5 different channels. Not to worry, you don't need all
those other channels with a Powerbox because you can plug both elevator servos into on
channel. Same thing for multiple aileron servos. Left and right ailerons still require separate
channels but the Powerbox will allow you to plug in as many as 3 aileron servos and 4 rudder
servos to one channel. That eliminates the need for Y harnesses and all that other stuff.
That's not to mention that the Powerbox is regulated for "6V" performance so you don't need
regulators. Also, these units come with a really neat fail safe switch that plugs right in, you can see
it in the pic on the far right. This switch is a fail safe that fails in the on position if something goes
wrong. It also comes with LED indicators that can be mounted in the fuselage that will tell you if
the system is on and if you are getting below safe voltage. Overall the system weighs about the
same as regulators, Y harnesses and all that other junk so there is not much, if any weight
In the middle pic you can see the Digiswitch from Duralite. This is a lightweight, regulated switch
that is perfect for your ignition. Once again there are lights on the switch that can tell you whether
the switch is in Nickel or Lithium mode and is you are operating in safe voltage range. This switch
is great for ignitions as well as models with up to 6 servos.
Now for the most important part, the flight report.
So let's just start at the beginning. The plane taxi's and
handles very nicely on the ground. As is true with most
biplanes, you have to be a little careful when you are
taxiing down wind as the wind can catch the tail and pick
it up. This is especially true in taller grass. Really not a big
deal just typical bipe behavior.
I put everything in the airplane exactly where the
instruction manual said. Because I trust these guys and
just to see how good their planning really was, I rolled the
dice and did not check the actual CG location before the
first flight. Lo and behold on takeoff the balance was
perfect for the maiden flight. The plane rolled out smooth
and straight and required no elevator trim for level flight.
So hats off to Aero Works for getting it right for us!
Once in the air I had to trim the rudder and ailerons just a
couple of clicks and we were off. As far as just general
flight, the plane flies very well. Take off and landing are
very easy and the plane has no unpredictable or bad
characteristics. The recommended throws are spot on for
basic aerobatic flight and the plane handles nicely there.
The plane flies really well. I think that my plane is just very
slightly nose heavy for my style of flying but overall the
plane is very responsive and stable. It tracks nicely in
level flight as well as in vertical lines. Rolls are beautiful,
nice and straight and very easy to manage. The plane
snaps great and is surprisingly easy to stop for a biplane.
In my experience bipes can tend to over rotate if you over
do the rudder in a snap, but this plane stops wherever you
want it to.
Spins are awesome, inverted spins are just insane and 3D
spins are all pretty easy to get into.
The only thing that was not as crisp as I like were
maneuvers like the wall and parachute. The plane just
would not pop into a wall or parachute, this could possibly
be because the plane is slightly nose heavy and I will
figure that out in time.
However, once I found the sweet spot on the elevator
stick I found that the plane harriers nicely and will
transition into a hover easily. It was pretty windy on the
days I had to do the initial flight testing and so it was a
little tricky. But the plane would settle into a hover and just
sit there for as long as you were willing to let it. I had a lot
of fun pointing the nose up at about 80 degrees and
watching the plane slide backward like a harrier in
Finally my favorite, high alpha rolls. I found that the plane
rolls nicely in high alpha. Rolling harriers were great but I
was surprised that I had to dial up the aileron throw a little
to get the roll response I wanted in high alpha. Low rate
was not quite enough and of course high rate is lightning
fast. Once I got the roll rate and expo where I wanted
them I could not have asked for a higher fun factor.
Words really can't describe what an absolutely beautiful
airplane this is. I have reviewed and seen a lot of
airplanes and this has to be one of the best looking I have
seen on the ground and in the air. The color scheme really
appeals to me and I like a little flash, so with the graphics
package the plane is a real show stopper.
Check out the video to see her in action!
50CC Pitts Python
Flight Video 1 (33mb)
50CC Pitts Python
3D Flight Video (35 mb)
In summary I just want to say thank you to Aero Works for having me do this review. Again they
have put together a high quality package that I can pretty much guarantee you will not disappoint.
As far as the actual flying weight being a little over advertised, as far as I was concerned "so
what?". At 19 pounds the plane flies great, the DA had absolutely no problems throwing it around
even with a 22" break in prop and a brand new engine. Once the engine breaks in and we switch
to the 23B prop, look out. The plane flies absolutely great at this weight and did most everything,
98% of what I asked of it in aerobatic flight and 3D. Don't get stuck on the number, just fly the
plane and you will see what I mean.
If you are looking for a great flying plane, that is incredibly quick and easy to assemble and is
absolutely gorgeous then the AeroWorks 50CC Pitts Python is the one for you..
401 Laredo St. Unit "D"
Aurora, Co 80011
Phone: (303) 366-4205
Desert Aircraft Engines
Distributed through Desert Aircraft
1815 South Research Loop
Tucson, Az 85710
Phone: 520.722.0607
Duralite Flight Systems
Email Address: support@duraliteflightsystems.com Web Address: www.duralitebatteries.com
Vess Propellers
Distributed by Desert Aircraft
1815 South Research Loop Tucson, Az 85710
Phone 520.722.0607 Website: www.desertaircraft.com/
ZAP and Pacer Adhesives
Distributed by Frank Tiano Ent.
3607 Ventura Drive E.
Lakeland, Florida 33811
Phone 863-607-6611
Website: http://www.franktiano.com
JTEC Mufflers
P.O Box 1847
Mooresville, NC 28115
Phone (704) 799-1658
Kirby's Custom Vinyl Graphics
903 Settlemire Road
Lebanon, Ohio, 45036
Phone: 513-932-2422
Kirby's Website
Tru Turn
100 West 1st Street
Deer Park, Texas 77536
Phone: (281) 479-9600
Comments on RCU Review: AeroWorks 50CC Pitts Python QB ARF
Posted by: cosmospho on 05/21/2008
Profile Ok, all reviews are just perfection to the most here in RCU, but give me a break.... Am I supposed to believe that on a
2000 dollar plus plane you did not even check the CG ?? Either that is outright dangerous to your fellow flyers or plain
Posted by: MikeEast on 05/22/2008
Profile Well, I have assembled and flown several of Roccos QB planes and they were always really close on the CG. With that
experience, I have a lot of confidence in his ability to build the planes so that they balance on the design CG if you
install all of the gear in the planes exactly as the instructions recommened so I knew that the CG was right without
having to get a good CG check. I would never recommend that anyone test this, but since I pretty well knew what to
expect and wanted to empahasize the true consistancy of the construction of these planes I thought it would be fun to
emphasize this positive point. Trust me, before I flew the plane I knew that the CG was good. Posted by: cosmospho on 05/23/2008
Profile Heh, that sounds better.... If you know and built same planes with same servos, batteries and engines it makes sense.
I agree with plans, but sometimes a heavier spinner or heavier servos on the tail can change the CG a lot... But its
explained thanks... You should say ("guys don't do this at home, but I flew without checking my CG").
Posted by: bowlzippy on 05/28/2008
Profile thank you... because of this review i will be buying this airplane next... great flying and proving the quality of the
aircraft by not checking the CG was a nice touch.. demonstrates the trust you have in this manufacturer..
aircraft by not checking the CG was a nice touch.. demonstrates the trust you have in this manufacturer..
Posted by: MikeAndersonCA on 06/11/2008
Profile There doesn't seem to be any provision for a canister muffler. (No obvious tunnel in fuselage) Is that right?
Posted by: frednjess on 06/19/2008
Profile I don't care how good the manufacturer is, CHECK THE CG. Every time! You just spent $2000 and spent a fair
amount of time assembling a great plane. How long does a CG check take? 5 minutes, max. Not checking is just dumb.
Page: 1 The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply
generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in
products like the one featured in the review. EMAIL THIS ARTICLE OR CHECK OUT THESE OTHER GREAT REVIEWS!
Ok, enough about Paul because this article is
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