`Millie` R/C Fittings Kit

`Millie` R/C Fittings Kit
You will need to supply:-
‘Millie’ R/C Fittings Kit
This pack contains the following parts:1 Regulator servo mounting bracket.
A radio control set complete
with transmitter, receiver,
switch harness and one
micro Servo. You may also
require a servo extension
lead.
1 Regulator control rod (Push rod).
2 Pushrod connectors, screws &
Starlock washers.
1 Steam regulator (R/C type) &
washers.
1 Regulator arm & Allen Key.
2 M3 x 6 CH screws, Nuts & Washers.
If multi-channel equipment
is used, only one channel will
be
re quire d
fo r
this
locomotive.
A tender, truck or other
suitable wagon in which to
house the radio receiver,
switch and batteries.
Fitting Instructions.
If you have a full cab fitted, remove the cab roof and back for better access.
If you have a boiler top up system fitted, remove the gauge glass for safety.
A replacement R/C type regulator is supplied with this kit. Although
externally it looks the same as the manual type fitted to the loco,
internally it is quite different. It is designed to operate with a servo
where a small amount of movement must give full control from closed
to fully open. It also relies on an internal ‘O’ ring to ensure that it
closes fully with the minimum of force.
Disconnect the steam pipe from the regulator using a 2BA spanner
and then remove the regulator from the turret by unscrewing it. This
is fitted with a small amount of thread sealer so may be a little tight to
start off.
Using one or two of the new fibre washers fit the new regulator in
place of the old one. Ensure that the steam take off from the regulator
ends up pointing down to line up with the steam pipe connector. Two
fibre washers are provided. You may have to fit either one or both of
these. It may be necessary to file one of the fibre washers thinner by
rubbing on a file or emery paper until the correct position to line up
with the steam pipe is achieved.
Re-connect the steam pipe.
Fit a micro servo to the servo mounting bracket using the M3 x 6
screws, nuts and washers as shown in the diagram. Note that the
spindle and cable of the servo should be at the top.
Temporarily, connect the servo, switch and battery holder to the
receiver as detailed in the manufacturer’s instructions. If necessary,
remove the spring which self centres the left hand control arm (usually
channel 2) on the transmitter (see manufacturer’s instructions). Fit
batteries and switch on both transmitter and receiver.
Moving the left hand control arm on the transmitter up and down
should now cause the servo spindle to rotate. Set the left hand control
lever on the transmitter to the bottom and ensure that the trimmer at
the side of it is at the top. This will park the servo in its normally
closed position.
Prepare a servo horn with a single arm and a connector hole about
15mm from the centre of the mounting boss and then fit the servo
horn so that it is pointing to roughly halfway between 7 and 8 on a
clock face and fix it in place with its retaining screw. When the left
hand control lever is moved upwards, the servo horn should rotate
clockwise. If it travels anti-clockwise, use the servo reverse switch on
the transmitter then reset the horn as above.
Push one of the brass heavy-duty push rod connectors through the
hole in the arm from the opposite side to the mounting boss that fits
over the servo spindle. Push a star lock washer on from the back to
retain it then fit the push rod locking screw from the front.
Fit the push rod into the connector, making sure that the bend is
positioned as in the diagram, and tighten the lock screw.
The servo cable can be fixed to the side of the servo with insulating
tape so that when fitted, it sits in the space between the servo and
cab side.
Remove the front right hand cab handrail (two 8BA nuts) and sit the
servo and bracket into that side of the cab. There is a mounting lug on
the bottom of the bracket that fits into a short slot on the footplate
and the handrail knobs and nuts fix it to the cab side. The bottom nut
is a little tricky, but if you fit that one first and use a pair of tweezers
to place the nut, it will be much easier.
Pass the cable under the servo, across the top of the footplate and
down through the hole with the gas pipe. Remove the rear buffer
beam and file a small notch in its top edge, about 10mm left of centre,
so that the servo lead will sit in it with the plug on the outside. Re fit
the buffer beam.
Fit the second heavy-duty push rod connector, ‘Starlock’ washer and
lock screw to the regulator arm on its 4th hole, once again on the
opposite side to the mounting boss.
Turn the regulator spindle clockwise with your fingers to close it, but
do not force it. Fit the regulator arm to the spindle with the heavy
duty push rod connector pointing to the front of the loco, placing it
between 4 and 5 o’clock on a clock face, and nip up the grub screw
using the Allen key provided.
With the radio control switched on so that the servo is held in the fully
closed position, connect the regulator arm to the servo horn as shown
in diagram and nip up the push rod lock screw.
When the left hand control lever on the transmitter is moved upwards,
the servo horn will rotate upwards (clockwise) and push the regulator
arm up (anti-clockwise).
Re-fit the pressure gauge if applicable.
Re-fit gauge glass if applicable.
Setting and adjustment of the regulator is best done with the
locomotive in steam and with the chassis supported on two wooden
blocks to raise the wheels off the bench. Ensure that the regulator is
closed when raising steam.
With full working pressure raised, switch on both transmitter and
receiver and move the locomotive into gear by carefully rotating the
wheels one full revolution. Open the regulator by slowly moving the left
hand lever upwards and find the position at which the engine starts to
run. Move the arm backwards and forwards a few times to establish the
position at which it closes and leave it there. If the regulator does not
open or fails to close fully, slacken the grub screw holding the regulator
arm in place, remove the arm and turn the spindle manually (careful as
its hot!) to find the point at which it just closes.
Move the control lever on the transmitter to the bottom and replace the
regulator arm. Proceed as before to find its closing position and leave it
there. Carefully slacken the grub screw and move the control lever to
the bottom without moving the spindle. Nip up the grub screw. You can
make fine adjustments to the linkage now until the regulator closes fully
with the control lever at the bottom. Because of the ‘O’ ring used in the
R/C type regulator, you should aim for the wheels to start moving when
you have moved the control lever on the transmitter about halfway up.
This is because the ‘O’ ring will compress slightly into its seat when fully
closed. You may need to adjust the position of the arm on the spindle,
the control rod in the push rod connector, or both to achieve this. When
satisfied that all is adjusted correctly, tighten all screws, switch off the
gas burner and R/C equipment and disconnect battery clip.
The trimmer at the side of the control arm can be used in the future to
compensate for wear and compression of the ‘O’ ring. As time passes,
you may find that the regulator does not fully close when the control
lever is at the bottom. As this happens, the trimmer can be moved down
a little at a time to compensate.
When you are happy that all is well, the cab back and roof (if applicable)
can be re-fitted.
The receiver, batteries and switch should be housed in a suitable truck
or tender of your choice and the use of a servo extension lead may be
required depending on the length of the cable on the servo used.
Take care when positioning the aerial wire so that a good signal is
received. Do not place the aerial inside any metal shielding.
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road. Wheatley.
Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone: 01302 328035
Fax: 01302 761312
email: mail@roundhouse-eng.com
ONLINE
www.roundhouse-eng.com
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