PART II - Sport Guru

PART II - Sport Guru
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BICYCLE
WARNING
THIS MANUAL CONTAINS IMPORTANT SAFETY,
PERFORMANCE AND SERVICE INFORMATION.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new
bicycle, and keep it for reference.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR PURCHASE OF A
CANNONDALE BICYCLE.
our products:
1. We think riding a bike is fun! Which means all of us at Cannondale are lucky enough to
do what we enjoy. You’ll see that dedication to our craft in every bicycle we make.
2. Our dedication to craft includes dreaming up new ways to pioneer improvements for the
industry – things like System Integration and the BB30 Standard. Later, other manufacturers
often “borrow” our ideas, but that’s okay. After all, more people on bikes is good for everyone.
3. Because bike riding is so much fun, we encourage you to partake whenever the whim
strikes you: Going to the grocery store, going to work, going to school, or wherever you
go. Bikes are serious transportation, in addition to being outrageously good fun.
4. To keep your bike in top condition and to minimize risk, please read this manual before
your first ride and refer to this manual whenever you have questions about its operation.
5. We encourage you to visit your local Independent Bike Dealer. Many of us had our first jobs in
bike shops, and your local Cannondale dealer is an important source of information for you.
Use of this manual
Other Manuals & Instructions
Many of the components on your bike were not
made by Cannondale. When available from the
manufacturer, Cannondale packages these manuals
and/or instructions with our bikes for delivery to you.
We strongly recommend that you read and follow
all the manufacturer’s specific instructions included
with your bike.
Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual
This manual contains important information
affecting your safety and the proper use of bicycles.
It is a very important manual for every bike we make.
It is organized into two parts:
Authorized Cannondale Retailers
Your local Authorized Cannondale Retailer is your
primary contact for service and adjustment of your
bicycle, instruction in its use, and any warranty
questions.
PART I
Is a generic guide to the proper function and use
of bicycles. This generic information is used by
many bike companies. Most aspects of bicycles are
common or “generic.” PART I of this manual is the
10th edition of the generic manual.
Your new bike is to be delivered by a Authorized
Cannondale Retailer to you in a completely
assembled and properly adjusted condition,
complete with all required safety equipment,
Owner’s Manuals, any Cannondale Owner’s Manual
Supplements, and the available manufacturer’s
instructions (shipped by Cannondale) for parts and
components for your bike.
PART II
Contains information specific to Cannondale bicycles
and topics we feel you need to know and understand
about our bikes.
To find the Cannondale retailer closest to you, call
1-800-THE-BIKE-USA, or use our website dealer
locator at www.cannondale.com.
A manual alone cannot teach you how to ride, and a
manual the size of an encyclopedia could not cover
every combination of bicycle, rider and conditions.
Thus, as a reasonable person would expect, the
Cannondale manuals and supplements focus on the
bicycle, not teaching you to ride.
Use Only Genuine Replacement Parts
It is important to your safety and the performance
of your Cannondale bicycle that you use only
genuine Cannondale replacement parts in Headshok
and Lefty forks, Cannondale swingarms and rear
suspension assemblies, derailleur hangers and other
frame hardware.
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use,
service, repair or maintenance manual. It contains
no assembly instructions. This manual is not a
service manual for any parts of your bike. Please see
your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance.
Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes or
books on bicycle use, and maintenance.
These parts are described in Owners Manual
Supplements. This note does not apply to widely
used generic bicycle components such as derailleurs.
Owner’s Manual Supplements
Cannondale Owner’s Manual Supplements are
“supplements” to this manual providing important
additional model specific safety, maintenance, and
technical information. Cannondale Owner’s Manual
Supplements are not replacements for this or any
other manual for your bike.
You can download Adobe Acrobat PDF versions of
any Cannondale Owner’s Manual or Owner’s Manual
Supplements or Tech Notes from our website. Go to:
http://www.cannondale.com.
1
131264 (01/14)
CONTENTS
PART I
PART II
GENERAL WARNING..................................... 4
Section A. Important safety info....42-51
A Special Note For Parents.................... 4
3.A Stand Over Height............................................. 15
3.B Saddle Position.................................................. 16
3.C. Handlebar Height and Angle.............................. 18
3.D Control Position Adjustments........................... 19
3.E Brake Reach....................................................... 19
A Wide Range of Injuries Are Possible.....................42
Bicycles Cannot Protect You.....................................42
Bicycling Inherent Risk.............................................42
Warning Label..........................................................43
Riding in Traffic, Commuting....................................43
Riding at Night, Dusk, Dawn................................... 44
Refinishing.............................................................. 45
Modifications.......................................................... 45
Child Carriers............................................................ 46
Bicycles Have Sharp Surfaces.................................. 46
Bar Ends.................................................................. 46
Installing Accessories.............................................. 46
Aerodynamic Handlebars.........................................47
About Shimmy........................................................ 48
Toe Clip Overlap....................................................... 48
Tire Size................................................................... 49
Tire & Rim Pressure Compatibility ......................... 49
How to Check Wheel Rim Wear............................... 50
Understanding Disc Brakes on Road Bikes.............. 50
Brake Power Modulators.......................................... 51
Aftermarket Brake Systems..................................... 51
Aftermarket Power Systems.................................... 51
Section 4. tECH................................. 20 - 37
Section B. Intended Use.................... 52-60
4.A Wheels............................................................. 20
4.B Seat Post Cam Action Clamp.............................26
4.C Brakes................................................................27
Coaster Brakes.................................................. 30
4.D Shifting Gears.................................................... 31
4.E Pedals................................................................33
4.F Bicycle Suspension............................................34
4.G Tires and Tubes..................................................35
CONDITION 5 Gravity, Freeride,
Downhill, Dirt Jump..................................................59
Section 1. First...................................... 5-8
1.A Bike Fit.................................................................5
1.B Safety First...........................................................5
1.C Mechanical Safety Check......................................6
1.D First Ride............................................................. 8
Section 2. Safety..................................8-14
2.A The Basics...........................................................9
2.B Riding Safety..................................................... 10
2.C Off-Road Safety..................................................11
2.D Wet Weather Riding...........................................11
2.E Night Riding...................................................... 12
2.F Extreme, Stunt, or Competition Riding............. 13
2.G Changing Components Adding Accessories....... 14
Section 3. Fit .......................................15-19
This section also includes weight limit information.
CONDITION 1 High-Performance Road.....................53
CONDITION 2 General Purpose Riding.....................55
CONDITION 3 Cross-Country, Mararthon,
Hardtails...................................................................57
CONDITION 4 All-Mountain, Overmountain............ 58
Section 5. service...............................38-41
5.A Service Intervals................................................39
5.B If Your Bicycle Sustains an Impact..................... 41
2
APPENDIX
Section C. Mountain Bike Riding.......61-64
Off-Road Riding....................................................... 61
Bike Types................................................................. 61
Inspection and Maintenance Routines..................... 61
Suspension...............................................................62
Jumping....................................................................62
Stay In Control..........................................................62
Downhill and Lift-Serviced Riding............................62
Shifting Gears While Pedaling..................................63
Freeride and Downhill Riding.................................. 64
A. Cannondale BB30
Standard Bicycle Frames.................................... 90
B. Maximum Fork Length........................................ 91
C. Care And Maintenance Of
Carbon Fiber Seat Posts......................................92
D. Care And Maintenance Of
Carbon Fiber Forks And Stems............................96
E. Bicycle Racks.....................................................100
F. Using Bicycle Trainers........................................ 102
Trainers: Risks To Children
Section D. Inspect For Safety...........66-76
1. Understanding Metals...........................................67
2. Understanding Composites (Carbon Fiber)...........72
3. Understanding Components.................................74
Bicycle Lifespan........................................................76
Useful Life of Lightweight Frames...........................76
Section E. Maintenance..................... 77-82
30 Day Service.......................................................... 77
Cleaning.................................................................... 77
Preventing Corrosion................................................ 77
Lubrication...............................................................78
Tightening Torques...................................................78
Repair/Work Stands.................................................79
Protect From Extreme Temperatures.......................79
RIding Through Water..............................................79
Applying Frame Protection...................................... 80
Water Bottles.......................................................... 82
lated info
Check for re reas:
a
in all three
DIX.
the APPEN
RT II, and
PART 1, PA
Section F. LIMITED Warranty............... 83
Cannondale Limited Warranty.................................83
Product Registration............................................... 84
Serial Number.......................................................... 84
Authorized Distributors (01/14).............................. 85
Australian Consumer Law
(Limited Warranty/Australia)...................................87
Section g. PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST............... 89
3
PART I
GENERAL WARNING
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and
damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume
the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know
— and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible
riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper
use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of
injury.
WARNING
This manual does not cover Juvenile or BMX
bicycles.
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the
activities and safety of your minor child, and that
includes making sure that the bicycle is properly
fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe
operating condition; that you and your child have
learned and understand the safe operation of the
bicycle; and that you and your child have learned,
understand and obey not only the applicable local
motor vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also
the common sense rules of safe and responsible
bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual,
as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s
functions and operating procedures with your child,
before letting your child ride the bicycle.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and
“Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure
to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to
follow safe cycling practices.
and
The combination of the safety alert symbol
the word WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous
situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious
injury or death.
The combination of the safety alert symbol
and the word CAUTION indicates a potentially
hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result
in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against
unsafe practices.
WARNING
The word CAUTION used without the safety alert
symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided,
could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the
voiding of your warranty.
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR CHILD ALWAYS
WEARS AN APPROVED BICYCLE HELMET
WHEN RIDING; BUT ALSO MAKE SURE THAT
YOUR CHILD UNDERSTANDS THAT A BICYCLE
HELMET IS FOR BICYCLING ONLY, AND MUST BE
REMOVED WHEN NOT RIDING.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may
lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result in
serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat
the warning of possible injury or death.
A helmet must not be worn while playing, in
play areas, on playground equipment, while
climbing trees, or at any time while not riding
a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could
result in serious injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation
or condition which can occur while riding, this
Manual makes no representation about the safe use
of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks
associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot
be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole
responsibility of the rider.
4
section 1. first
1.B - Safety First
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding
your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for fit, use and care.
NOTE:
2. Do you have all the other required and
recommended safety equipment?
See SECTION 2. It’s your responsibility to
familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas
where you ride, and to comply with all applicable
laws.
We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its
entirety before your first ride. At the very least, read
and make sure that you understand each point in
this section, and refer to the cited sections on any
issue which you don’t completely understand. Please
note that not all bicycles have all of the features
described in this manual. Ask your dealer to point out
the features of your bicycle.
3. Do you know how to correctly operate your wheel
quick releases? Check SECTION 4.A.1 to make
sure. Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel
quick release can cause the wheel to wobble or
disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious
injury or death.
1.A - Bike Fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see SECTION
3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small for
you, You may lose control and fall. If your new
bike is not the right size, ask your dealer to
exchange it before you ride it.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless
(“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know how they
work (see SECTION 4.E). These pedals require
special techniques and skills. Follow the pedal
manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
and care.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see
SECTION 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height,
follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in
SECTION 3.B.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed
bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able to
contact the front wheel when a pedal is all
the way forward and the wheel is turned. Read
SECTION 4.E. If you have toeclip overlap.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A
correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle
movement in any direction. See SECTION 3.B.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check
SECTION 4.F. Suspension can change the way
a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension
manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
and care.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height
for you? If not, see SECTION 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not,
you may be able to adjust their angle and reach.
See SECTION 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new
bicycle? If not, before your first ride, have your
dealer explain any functions or features which
you do not understand.
5
PART I
1.C - Mechanical Safety Check
Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off
the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce
on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose?
Do a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike.
Any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them.
If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to
check.
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before
every ride.
Nuts, Bolts Screws & Other Fasteners
Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener
sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials,
often differing by model and component, the correct
tightening force or torque cannot be generalized.
Tires & Wheels
Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see SECTION
4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one
on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then
bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire
deflection. Compare what you see with how it looks
when you know the tires are correctly inflated; and
adjust if necessary.
To make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle
are correctly tightened. See page 78.
Always refer to the torque specifications in the
instructions provided by the manufacturer of a
component in question.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look
for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged
tires before riding the bike.
Correctly tightening a fastener requires a calibrated
torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with
a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on you
bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle,
you must use a torque wrench and the correct
tightening torque specifications from the bicycle
or component manufacturer or from your dealer. If
you need to make an adjustment at home or in the
field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the
fasteners you worked on checked by your dealer as
soon as possible.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake
clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel
wobbles side-to-side even slightly, or rubs against or
hits the brake pads, take the bike to a qualified bike
shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION
Note that there are some components which require
special tools and knowledge. In Sections 3 and 4, we
discuss the items which you may be able to adjust
yourself. All other adjustments and repairs should be
done by a qualified bike mechanic.
Wheels must be true for the brakes to work
effectively. Wheel trueing is a skill which
requires special tools and experience. Do not
attempt to true a wheel unless you have the
knowledge, experience and tools needed to do
the job correctly.
WARNING
CORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE ON FASTENERS
–NUTS, BOLTS, SCREWS– ON YOUR BICYCLE IS
IMPORTANT.
Too little force, and the fastener may not hold
securely. Too much force, and the fastener can
strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either
way, incorrect tightening force can result in
component failure, which can cause you to loose
control and fall.
6
Seat post
Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the
rims are clean and undamaged at the tire bead and,
if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface.
Check to make sure that any rim wear indicator
marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
If your seat post has an over-center cam action
fastener for easy height adjustment, check that it
is properly adjusted and in the locked position. See
Section 4.B.
Handlebar and Saddle Alignment
WARNING
Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel
to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough
so that you can’t twist them out of alignment. See
SECTION 3.B and 3.C.
BICYCLE WHEEL RIMS ARE SUBJECT TO WEAR.
Ask your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some
wheel rims have a rim wear indicator which
becomes visible as the rim’s braking surface
wears. A visible rim wear indicator on the side
of the wheel rim is an indication that the wheel
rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding
a wheel that is at the end of its usable life can
result in wheel failure, which can cause you to
loose control and fall.
Handlebar Ends
Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good
condition. If not, have your dealer replace them.
Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are
plugged. If not, plug them before you ride. If the
handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they
are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
Brakes
WARNING
Check the brakes for proper operation (see SECTION
4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake
quick-releases closed? All control cables seated
and securely engaged? Do the brake pads contact
the wheel rim squarely and make full contact with
the rim? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rim
within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you
apply full braking force at the levers without having
them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need
adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are
properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
LOOSE OR DAMAGED HANDLEBAR GRIPS
OR EXTENSIONS CAN CAUSE YOU TO
LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. UNPLUGGED
HANDLEBARS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CUT
YOU AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY IN AN
OTHERWISE MINOR ACCIDENT.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar
with the important information on the lifespan of
your bicycle and its components in PART II, SECTION
D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
Wheel Retention System
Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly
secured. See SECTION 4.A
7
PART I
1.D - First Ride
section 2. safety
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first
familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to
pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other
cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance
of your new bike.
WARNING
MANY STATES REQUIRE SPECIFIC SAFETY
DEVICES. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO
FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE LAWS OF
THE STATE WHERE YOU RIDE AND TO COMPLY
WITH ALL APPLICABLE LAWS, INCLUDING
PROPERLY EQUIPPING YOURSELF AND YOUR
BIKE AS THE LAW REQUIRES.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the
bike (see SECTION 4.C). Test the brakes at slow
speed, putting your weight toward the rear and
gently applying the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden
or excessive application of the front brake could pitch
you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard
can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose
control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can
happen when a wheel locks up.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations.
Observe regulations about bicycle lighting,
licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws
regulating bike path and trail use, helmet laws,
child carrier laws, special bicycle traffic laws.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice
getting in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4
above and SECTION 4.E.4.
It’s your responsibility to know and obey the
laws.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with
how the suspension responds to brake application
and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and
SECTION 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see SECTION 4.D).
Remember to never move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after
having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain
and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and
check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything
about the bike is not as it should be, consult your
dealer before you ride.
8
2.A - The Basics
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check
(SECTION 1.C) before you get on a bike.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the
latest certification standards and is appropriate
for the type of riding you do. Always follow the
helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use
and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle
injuries involve head injuries which might have
been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate
helmet.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your
bicycle: brakes (SECTION 4.C.); pedals (SECTION
4.E.); shifting (SECTION 4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects
away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the
moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks,
and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
pedals. Never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that
it can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by
objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eye wear, to protect against airborne
dirt, dust and bugs —tinted when the sun is
bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Unless you bicycle was specifically designed for
jumping, don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a
bike, particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can
be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable
stress on the bicycle and its components.
Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk
serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to
themselves. Before you attempt to jump, do
stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
understand SECTION 2.F.
Figure 1. Bicycle Helmet
Your helmet should be:
• U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
(CPSC) certified (look for the label on the helmet)
•
Properly Sized for You
•
Properly Fitted to You
•
Properly Attached to Your Head!
•
Undamaged
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions.
Increased speed means higher risk.
ASK YOUR RETAILER FOR HELP
WARNING
FAILURE TO WEAR A HELMET WHEN RIDING
MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
9
PART I
2.B - Riding Safety
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic
sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract
you from concentrating on what’s going on
around you, and their wires can tangle in the
moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose
control.
1. Obey all rules of the road and all local traffic
laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others
— motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists.
Respect their rights.
9. Never carry a passenger, and before installing a
child carrier or trailer, check with you dealer or the
bicycle manufacturer to make sure the bicycle
is designed for it. If the bicycle is suitable for a
child carrier or trailer, make sure that the carrier
or trailer is correctly mounted and the child
secured and wearing an approved and properly
fitted helmet.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do
not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road
or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind
you.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision
or your complete control of the bicycle, or which
could become entangled in the moving parts of
the bicycle.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another
vehicle.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks,
expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction,
debris and other obstructions that could cause
you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel or
otherwise cause you to lose control and have an
accident.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend
to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with
your bike despite our advice not to, read SECTION
2.F, Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now.
Think carefully about your skills before deciding
to take the large risks that go with this kind of
riding.
• The many other hazards and distractions which
can occur on a bicycle ride.
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves
that may surprise people with whom you are
sharing the road.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated
bike paths or as close to the edge of the road
as possible, in the direction of traffic flow or as
directed by local governing laws.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down
and look both ways at street intersections.
Remember that a bicycle always loses in a
collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to
yield even if you have the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence
of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when
visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the
dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these
conditions increases the risk of accident.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and
stopping.
10
2.C - Off-Road Safety
2.D - Wet Weather Riding
We recommend that children not ride on rough
terrain unless they are accompanied by an adult.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your
brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing
the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t
grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control
speed and easier to lose control.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of off-road
riding require close attention and specific skills.
Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your
skills. If your bike has suspension, the increased
speed you may develop also increases your risk
of losing control and falling. Get to know how to
handle your bike safely before trying increased
speed or more difficult terrain.
WARNING
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding
you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when
riding with others, make sure that someone
knows where you’re going and when you expect
to be back.
WET WEATHER IMPAIRS TRACTION, BRAKING
AND VISIBILITY, BOTH FOR THE BICYCLIST AND
FOR OTHER VEHICLES SHARING THE ROAD.
The risk of an accident is dramatically increased
in wet conditions.
To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely
in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your
brakes earlier and more gradually than you would
under normal, dry conditions. See also SECTION 4.C.
4. Always take along some kind of identification,
so that people know who you are in case of an
accident; and take along a couple of dollars in
cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency
phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals.
Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger
them, and give them enough room so that their
unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while
you’re riding off-road, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding
or race with your bike, read and understand
SECTION 2.F.
Off-Road Respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you
can ride off-road, and respect private property.
You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers,
equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights.
Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to
erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding.
Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own
trail or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is
your responsibility to minimize your impact on the
environment. Leave things as you found them; and
always take out everything you brought in.
11
PART I
2.E - Night Riding
WARNING
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous
than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very difficult
for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore,
children should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at
night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly
increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night
need to take extra care both riding and choosing
specialized equipment which helps reduce that
risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety
equipment.
DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT OR REAR
REFLECTORS OR REFLECTOR BRACKETS FROM
YOUR BICYCLE.
They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety
system.
REMOVING THE REFLECTORS MAY REDUCE
YOUR VISIBILITY TO OTHERS USING THE
ROADWAY. BEING STRUCK BY OTHER
VEHICLES MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR
DEATH.
WARNING
The reflector brackets may protect you from the
brake straddle cable catching on the tire in the
event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle
cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel
to stop suddenly, causing you to loose control
and fall.
REFLECTORS ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR
REQUIRED LIGHTS. RIDING AT DAWN, AT
DUSK, AT NIGHT OR AT OTHER TIMES OF POOR
VISIBILITY WITHOUT AN ADEQUATE BICYCLE
LIGHTING SYSTEM AND WITHOUT REFLECTORS
IS DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect
street lights and car lights in a way that may help you
to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION
Check reflectors and their mounting
brackets regularly to make sure that they are
clean,straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and
straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor
visibility, check and be sure you comply with all
local laws about night riding, and take the following
strongly recommended additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator
powered head and tail lights which meet all
regulatory requirements and provide adequate
visibility.
• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and
accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective
arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your
helmet, flashing lights attached to your body
and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or
light source that moves will help you get the
attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians
and other traffic.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors
are often designed as brake straddle cable safety
catches which prevent the straddle cable from
catching on the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its
yoke or breaks.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may
be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a
reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with
correctly positioned and securely mounted
reflectors.
12
WHILE RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK OR AT
NIGHT:
WARNING
ALTHOUGH MANY CATALOGS,
ADVERTISEMENTS AND ARTICLES ABOUT
BICYCLING DEPICT RIDERS ENGAGED
IN EXTREME RIDING, THIS ACTIVITY IS
EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, INCREASES YOUR
RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH, AND INCREASES
THE SEVERITY OF ANY INJURY.
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas, areas of heavy or fastmoving traffic.
•
Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
Remember that the action depicted is being
performed by professionals with many years of
training and experience.
IF RIDING IN TRAFFIC:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see
you and predict your movements.
Know your limits and always wear a helmet and
other appropriate safety gear. Even with stateof-the-art protective safety gear, you could
be seriously injured or killed when jumping,
stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in
competition.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the
unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in traffic often, ask your
dealer about traffic safety classes or a good
book on bicycle traffic safety.
2.F - Extreme, Stunt Or
Competition Riding
WARNING
Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations
with regard to strength and integrity, and this
type of riding can exceed those limitations or
dramatically reduce the length of their safe
use.
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North
Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing
or something else: if you engage in this sort of
extreme, aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you
voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury
or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding,
and those that are may not be suitable for all types
of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the
bicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of your
bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds
achieved by motorcycles, and therefore face similar
hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment
carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be
sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert
riders and race officials on conditions and equipment
advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear
appropriate safety gear, including an approved full
face helmet, full finger gloves, and body armor.
Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper
equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
13
(continued on next page...)
PART I
2.G - Changing Components
Or Adding Accessories
(continued from previous page...)
There are many components and accessories
available to enhance the comfort, performance and
appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change
components or add accessories, you do so at your
own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have
tested that component or accessory for compatibility,
reliability or safety on your bicycle.
We recommend against this type of riding because
of the increased risks; but if you choose to take the
risk, at least:
• Take lessons from a competent instructor first
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly
develop your skills before trying more difficult or
dangerous riding.
Before installing any component or accessory,
including a different size tire, make sure that it is
compatible with your bicycle by checking with your
dealer.
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping,
racing or fast downhill riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other
safety gear.
Be sure to read, understand and follow the
instructions that accompany the products
you purchase for your bicycle. See also
PART II, SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
• Understand and recognize that the stresses
imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may
break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the
warranty.
Be sure to read, understand and follow the
instructions that accompany the products you
purchase for your bicycle. See also PART II, SECTION
D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything
breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle when
any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or
ride in competition, know the limits of your skill
and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your
responsibility.
WARNING
FAILURE TO CONFIRM COMPATIBILITY,
PROPERLY INSTALL, OPERATE AND MAINTAIN
ANY COMPONENT OR ACCESSORY CAN RESULT
IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING
Changing the components on your bike
with other than genuine replacement parts
compromise the safety of your bicycle and may
void the warranty. Check with your dealer before
changing the components on your bike.
14
section 3. fit
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling
safety, performance and comfort. Making the
adjustments to your bicycle which result in correct
fit for your body and riding conditions requires
experience, skill and special tools. Always have your
dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if
you have the experience, skill and tools, have your
dealer check your work before riding.
WARNING
IF YOUR BICYCLE DOES NOT FIT PROPERLY,
YOU MAY LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
Figure 2. Stand Over Height
If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to
exchange it before you ride it.
WARNING
IF YOU PLAN TO USE YOUR BIKE FOR JUMPING
OR STUNT RIDING, READ SECTION 2.F AGAIN.
3.A - Stand Over Height
1. Diamond frame bicycles
Stand over height is the basic element of bike fit (see
fig. 2). It is the distance from the ground to the top of
the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is
when straddling the bike. To check for correct stand
over height, straddle the bike while wearing the
kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce
vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the
frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride
the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only
on paved surfaces and never take off-road should
give you a minimum stand over height clearance of
two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved
surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches
(7.5 cm) of stand over height clearance. And a bike
that you’ll use off road should give you four inches
(10 cm) or more of clearance.
15
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with
step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension
is determined by saddle height range. You must be
able to adjust your saddle position as described in
3.B. SADDLE POSITION without exceeding the limits
set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the
”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
on the seat post.
PART I
3.B - Saddle Position
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure
that the seat post does not project from the frame
beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark (fig. 4).
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in
getting the most performance and comfort from your
bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for
you, see your dealer.
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat
tube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see
whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube
far enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sight
hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark to make sure the seat
post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
visible through the sight hole.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and Down Adjustment
To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• Sit on the saddle;
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the
case on some suspension bikes, you must also make
sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame
so that you can touch it through the bottom of the
interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger
without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle.
Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
• Place one heel on a pedal;
• Rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel
on it is in the down position and the crank arm is
parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle
height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must
rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is
too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your
heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
WARNING
If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube
as described in B.1 above, the seat post may
break, which could cause you to lose control
and fall.
Figure 3. Saddle Position
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal
riding position and to show you how to make this
adjustment. If you choose to make your own saddle
height adjustment:
•
loosen the seat post clamp
•
raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
•
make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
•
re-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (See manufacturer’s
instructions).
Figure 4. Minimum Insertion Mark
16
NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension
seat post, periodically ask your dealer to check it. Ask
your dealer for recommended service intervals for
your suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a
substantial effect on performance and comfort.
To find your best saddle position, make only one
adjustment at a time.
WARNING
When making saddle angle adjustments with a
single bolt saddle clamp, always check to make
sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces
of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on
the clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing
you to lose control and fall.
Figure 5. Interrupted Seat Tube
2. Front and Back Adjustment
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to
help you get the optimal position on the bike.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal
riding position and to show you how to make this
adjustment.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque.
Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform.
Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of
the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
If you choose to make your own front and back
adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism
is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails
and is not touching the curved part of the rails,
and that you are using the recommended torque
on the clamping fastener(s) (See manufacturer’s
instructions).
WARNING
After any saddle adjustment, be sure that
the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly
tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or
seat post binder can cause damage to the seat
post, or can cause you to lose control and fall.
3. Saddle Angle Adjustment
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some
riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a
little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach
you how to do it.
A correctly tightened saddle adjusting
mechanism will allow no saddle movement in
any direction. Periodically check to make sure
that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly
tightened.
If you choose to make your own saddle angle
adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp
on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the
clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on
the mechanism to disengage before changing the
saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully
re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to
the recommended torque (See manufacturer’s
instructions).
(continued on next page...)
17
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height,
tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still
uncomfortable, you may need a different saddle
design. Saddles, like people, come in many different
shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help you
select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for
your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING
Some people have claimed that extended riding
with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted
or which does not support your pelvic area
correctly can cause short-term or long-term
injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even
impotence.
If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or
other discomfort, listen to your body and stop
riding until you see your dealer about saddle
adjustment or a different saddle.
3.C - Handlebar Height And Angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless”
stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer
tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the
steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If
you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your
bike has, ask your dealer.
WARNING
A QUILL STEM’S “MINIMUM INSERTION MARK”
MUST NOT BE VISIBLE ABOVE THE TOP OF THE
HEADSET.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig 6), your
dealer may be able to change handlebar height by
moving height adjustment spacers from below the
stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise,
you’ll have to get a stem of different length or rise.
Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this
yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If the stem is extended beyond the minimum
insertion mark the stem may break or damage
the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to
lose control and fall.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig 7), you can ask
your dealer to adjust the handlebar height a bit by
adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on
its shaft which designates the stem’s “Minimum
Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must
not be visible above the headset.
18
3.D - Control Position Adjustments
WARNING
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and
their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask
your dealer to make the adjustments for you.
On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem
height can affect the tension of the front brake
cable, locking the front brake or creating excess
cable slack which can make the front brake
inoperable. If the front brake pads move in
towards the wheel rim or out away from the
wheel rim when the stem or stem height is
changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted
before you ride the bicycle.
If you choose to make your own control lever
angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the
clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (See
manufacturer’s instructions).
3.E - Brake Reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted
for reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult
to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either
adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle
stem. If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem,
ask your dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do
not attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as
changing stem angle may also require adjustments
to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING
THE SHORTER THE BRAKE LEVER REACH, THE
MORE CRITICAL IT IS TO HAVE CORRECTLY
ADJUSTED BRAKES, SO THAT FULL BRAKING
POWER CAN BE APPLIED WITHIN AVAILABLE
BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL.
WARNING
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque.
Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform.
Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of
the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Brake lever travel insufficient to apply full
braking power can result in loss of control,
which may result in serious injury or death.
WARNING
AN INSUFFICIENTLY TIGHTENED STEM
BINDER BOLT, HANDLEBAR BINDER BOLT OR
BAR END EXTENSION CLAMPING BOLT MAY
COMPROMISE STEERING ACTION, WHICH
COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND
FALL.
Place the front wheel of the bicycle between
your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/
stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in
relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars
in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end
extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts
are insufficiently tightened.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the
handlebar or bar end extensions.
19
PART I
section 4. tech
If you do not have a bicycle with a through-axle
mounting system, it will have wheel secured in one
of the following three ways:
•
A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has an adjustable tension nut
on one end and an over-center cam on the other
(cam action system, fig.8a & 8b).
We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things
described in this section before you attempt them
yourself, and that you have your dealer check your
work before you ride the bike.
•
A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has a nut on one end and a
fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening
device on the other (through bolt, fig. 9)
If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether
you understand something in this section of the
Manual, talk to your dealer.
•
Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on
to or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, fig. 10)
It’s important to your safety, performance and
enjoyment to understand how things work on your
bicycle.
See also:
WARNING
PART I “Coaster Brakes”
PART II, SECTION B., INTENDED USE
PART II, SECTION D., INSPECT FOR SAFETY
PART II, SECTION E., MAINTENANCE
RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY SECURED
WHEEL CAN ALLOW THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE
OR FALL OFF THE BICYCLE, WHICH CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THEREFORE, IT IS
ESSENTIAL THAT YOU:
4.A - Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for
easier transportation and for repair of a tire puncture.
In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots,
called “dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some
suspension mountain bikes use what is called a
“through axle” wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through
axle front or rear wheels, make sure that your dealer
has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and
follow those when installing or removing a through
axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle
is, ask your dealer.
20
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you
know how to install and remove your wheels
safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique
for clamping your wheel in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check
that the wheel is securely clamped. The
clamping action of a correctly secured wheel
must emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securing method for the front wheel than for the rear wheel.
Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle, that you know
how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely
secures the wheel.
Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask for the manufacturer’s
instructions.
21
PART I
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention
Devices
2. Wheels with cam action systems
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a
secondary wheel retention device to reduce the risk
of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel
is incorrectly secured. Secondary retention devices
are not a substitute for correctly securing your front
wheel.
There are currently two types of over-center cam
wheel retention mechanisms: the traditional overcenter cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system
(fig. 8b). Both use an over-center cam action to
clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may
have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system
and a traditional rear wheel cam action system.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic
categories:
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism
(fig. 8a)
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer
adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of
the over-center cam pushing against one dropout
and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of
the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount
of clamping force is controlled by the tension
adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut
clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces
clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension
adjusting nut can make the difference between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined
into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary
retention device on your bike.
WARNING
DO NOT REMOVE OR DISABLE THE SECONDARY
RETENTION DEVICE.
WARNING
As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a
critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured
correctly, the secondary retention device can
reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from
the fork. Removing or disabling the secondary
retention device may also void the warranty.
THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS
NEEDED TO CLAMP THE WHEEL SECURELY.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute
for correctly securing your wheel. Failure to
properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage, which could cause you to
loose control and fall, resulting in serious injury
or death.
See also WARNING on page 20.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the
lever like a wing nut with the other hand until
everything is as tight as you can get it will not
clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts.
22
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8B)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will
have been correctly adjusted for your bicycle by your
dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every
six months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel
on any bicycle other than the one for which your
dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing And Installing Wheels
WARNING
IF YOUR BIKE IS EQUIPPED WITH A HUB BRAKE
SUCH AS A REAR COASTER BRAKE, FRONT OR
REAR DRUM, BAND OR ROLLER BRAKE; OR
IF IT HAS AN INTERNAL GEAR REAR HUB, DO
NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL.
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,
move the cam lever from the locked or CLOSED
position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b). If
your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel
retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns
counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench,
lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, disengage it . If your front fork
has an integral secondary retention device, and a
traditional cam action system (fig. 8a) loosen the
tension adjusting nut enough to allow removing
the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel
uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze
the cup and cam lever together while removing
the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary
with the cam-and-cup system.
The removal and re-installation of most hub
brakes and internal gear hubs requires special
knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can
result in brake or gear failure, which can cause
you to lose control and fall.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with
the palm of your hand to release the wheel from
the front fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
CAUTION
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake,
be careful not to damage the disk, caliper or
brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever
unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
See also Section 4.C.
If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in
touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors have
sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get
very hot during use.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,
move the cam lever so that it curves away from
the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If
your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel
retention, go to the next step.
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the
clearance between the tire and the brake pads
(See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
(continued on next page...)
23
PART I
WARNING
(continued from previous page...)
SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH
A CAM ACTION RETENTION DEVICE TAKES
CONSIDERABLE FORCE.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the
wheel between the fork blades so that the axle
seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The
cam lever, if there is one, should be on rider’s left
side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). If your bike has a
clip-on type secondary retention device, engage
it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism:
holding the cam lever in the ADJUST position
with your right hand, tighten the tension
adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger
tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you
have a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup
(fig. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area
of the fork dropouts and no adjustment should
be required.
See also WARNING on page 20.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it to
restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
brakes are operating correctly.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the
slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time
centering the wheel rim in the fork:
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position
(fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel
to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel.
To apply enough clamping force, you should
have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade
for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear
imprint in the palm of your hand.
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake rear
wheel
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur
gear system: shift the rear derailleur to high gear
(the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications
in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s
instructions.
NOTE:
If you can fully close the cam lever without
wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for
leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint
in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on
the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces
of the dropouts, the tension is insufficient.
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut
clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your
dealer or the hub manufacturer’s instructions
before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk
brake, go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the
clearance between the wheel rim and the brake
pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the
OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting
nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try
tightening the lever again.
(6) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications
in “PART II Tightening Torques” or the hub
manufacturer’s instructions.
24
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur
body back with your right hand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quickrelease lever to the OPEN position (fig. 8b). With
a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the
fastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever
or integral lever; then push the wheel forward far
enough to be able to remove the chain from the
rear sprocket.
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches
and remove it from the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake rear
wheel
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace
the chain on the chainring; pull the wheel back
in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame
and the chain has about 1/4 inches of up-anddown play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position
(fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel
to the seat stay or chain stay and curved toward
the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you
should have to wrap your fingers around the
seat stay or chainstay for leverage, and the lever
should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications
in PART II “Tightening Torques” or the hub
manufacturer’s instructions.
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake,
be careful not to damage the disk, caliper or
brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever
unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
NOTE:
(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
to the OPEN position (see fig. 8 a & b). The lever
should be on the side of the wheel opposite the
derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the
lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension
adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn
and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear
derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear,
position; then pull the derailleur body back with
your right hand. Put the chain on top of the
smallest freewheel sprocket.
SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH
A CAM ACTION RETENTION DEVICE TAKES
CONSIDERABLE FORCE.
If you can fully close the cam lever without
wrapping your fingers around the seat stay or
chain stay for leverage, the lever does not leave
a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the
serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss
the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is
insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try
again.
(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the
front sprocket, so that you have plenty of slack
in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel
sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.
See also WARNING on page 20.
(continued on next page...)
25
PART I
Adjusting The Seat Post Cam Action
Mechanism
(continued from previous page...)
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar
around the seat post to hold the seat post securely
in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled
by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension
adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever
from rotating increases clamping force; turning it
counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from
rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half
a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the
difference between safe and unsafe clamping force.
(
8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it to
restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
brakes are operating correctly.
4.B. Seat Post Cam
Action Clamp
WARNING
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat
post binder. The seat post cam action binder works
exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener
(Section 4.A.2) While a cam action binder looks like
a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the
other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to
firmly clamp the seat post (see fig. 8a).
THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS
NEEDED TO CLAMP THE SEAT POST SECURELY.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the
lever like a wing nut with the other hand until
everything is as tight as you can get it will not
clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING
WARNING
If you can fully close the cam lever without
wrapping your fingers around the seat post or a
frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not
leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand,
the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn
the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter
turn; then try again.
Riding with an improperly tightened seat post
can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause
you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you
know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique
for clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the
seat post is securely clamped.
26
4.C - Brakes
1. Brake Controls And Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and
remember which brake lever controls which brake on
your bike.
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim
brakes, which operate by squeezing the wheel rim
between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate
by squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two
brake pads; and internal hub brakes. All three can
be operated by way of a handlebar mounted lever.
On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake
is operated by pedaling backwards. This is called a
Coaster Brake and is described in “Coaster Brakes” in
this section.
Traditionally, in the U.S. the right brake lever controls
the rear brake and the left brake lever controls the
front brake; but, to check how your bike’s brakes are
set up, squeeze one brake lever and look to see which
brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same with
the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze
the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too
small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your
dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be
adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever
design.
WARNING
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn
brake pads, or wheel on which the rim wear mark is
visible is dangerous and can result in serious injury
or death.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release
mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the
tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When
the brake quick release is in the open position, the
brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure
that you understand the way the brake quick release
works on your bike (see figs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check
each time to make sure both brakes work correctly
before you get on the bike.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock
up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control
and fall. Sudden or excessive application of the
front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars,
which may result in serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig.
11) and linear-pull brakes (fig.12), Are extremely
powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with
these brakes and exercise particular care when
using them.
2. How Brakes Work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the
friction between the brake surfaces — usually the
brake pads and the wheel rim. To make sure that you
have maximum friction available, keep your wheel
rims and brake pads clean and free of dirt, lubricants,
waxes or polishes.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake
force modulator, a small, cylindrical device through
which the brake control cable runs and which is
designed to provide a more progressive application
of braking force. A modulator makes the initial
brake lever force more gentle, progressively
increasing force until full force is achieved. If your
bike is equipped with a brake force modulator, take
extra care in becoming familiar with its performance
characteristics.
(continued on next page...)
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended
use. Be careful not to touch a disc brake until it has
had plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for
installation, operation and care of your brakes. If
you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions,
see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only
manufacturer approved genuine replacement parts
27
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just
to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each
wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel
“locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once
the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping
force and all directional control. You need to practice
slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up
a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake
modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the
position where you think you’ll generate appropriate
braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively
increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel
begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep
the wheel rotating just short of lockup.
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount
of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at
different speeds and on different surfaces. To better
understand this, experiment a little by walking your
bike and applying different amounts of pressure to
each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping
are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer.
This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your
bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension
“dips” under braking, increasing the weight transfer
(see also SECTION 4.F). Practice braking and weight
transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other
hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces
or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the
wheels have less cornering and braking traction and
can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on
the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way
to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go
more slowly.
More info:
ROAD BIKES: DISC BRAKES
Now, go to PART II of this manual
and read “Understanding Disc Brakes
on Road Bikes”
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins
to slow, but your body wants to continue at the
speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer
of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking,
around the front wheel hub, which could send you
flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater
brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less
weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So,
as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred
forward, you need to shift your body toward the
rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the
rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both
decrease rear braking and increase front braking
force. This is even more important on descents,
because descents shift weight forward.
28
OPEN
Figure 11.
Figure 14.
OPEN
PUSH
Figure 12.
Figure 15.
OPEN
Figure 13.
29
PART I
cOaster BrakeS
1. How the coaster brake works
The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part of the bicycle’s rear wheel hub. The brake is activated
by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks (indicated by arrow above). Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly
horizontal position, with the front pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward foot pressure on
the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the brake. The more downward pressure you
apply, the more braking force, up to the point where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.
WARNING
Before riding, make sure that the brake is working properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle
checked by your dealer before you ride it.
WARNING
If your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively. A single rear brake does not have the stopping
power of front-and-rear brake systems.
2. Adjusting your coaster brake
Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt to
disassemble or service your coaster brake. Take the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.
30
4.D - Shifting Gears
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle
derailleur system design requires that the drive
chain be moving forward and be under at least some
tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling
forward.
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur
drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal gear hub
drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a
combination of the two.
CAUTION
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
Never move the shifter while pedaling backward,
nor pedal backwards immediately after having
moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and
cause serious damage to the bicycle.
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gearchanging mechanism will have:
•
a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
•
a rear derailleur
•
usually a front derailleur
•
one or two shifters
•
one, two or three front sprockets called
chainrings
•
a drive chain
b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.
The function of the rear derailleur is to move the
drive chain from one gear sprocket to another. The
smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher
gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires
greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater
distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks.
The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using
them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a
shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution.
Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear
cluster to a larger sprocket results in a downshift.
Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller
sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the
derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket to
another, the rider must be pedaling forward.
a. Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of
shifting controls: levers, twist grips, triggers,
combination shift/brake controls, push-buttons, and
so on. Ask your dealer to explain the type of shifting
controls that are on your bike, and to show you how
they work.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing.
A downshift is a shift to a “lower” or “slower” gear,
one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to
a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s
confusing is that what’s happening at the front
derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the
rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on
Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front
Derailleur below).
c. Shifting the Front Derailleur:
For example, you can select a gear which will make
pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one
of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to
a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to
a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster,
what is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The
way to keep things straight is to remember that
shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the
bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called a
downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the
centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an
upshift.
31
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left
shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and
smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller
chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift).
Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder
(an upshift).
PART I
d. Which gear should I be in?
WARNING
The combination of largest rear and smallest front
gears (fig. 16) is for the steepest hills. The smallest
rear and largest front combination is for the greatest
speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence.
Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for
your level of ability — a gear which is hard enough for
quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start
from a stop without wobbling — and experiment
with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for
the different gear combinations. At first, practice
shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or
other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence.
Learn not to use either the “smallest-to-smallest or
“largest-to-largest” gera combinations because they
can cause unacceptable stress on the drive change.
Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to
a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you
have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be
mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
A
NEVER SHIFT A DERAILLEUR ONTO THE
LARGEST OR THE SMALLEST SPROCKET IF THE
DERAILLEUR IS NOT SHIFTING SMOOTHLY.
The derailleur may be out of adjustment and
the chain could jam, causing you to lose control
and fall.
e. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails
to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances
are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take
the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain
works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the
gear changing mechanism will consist of:
B
•
a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an infinitely
variable internal gear hub
•
one, or sometimes two shifters
•
one or two control cables
•
one front sprocket called a chainring
•
a drive chain
1
4
2
a. Shifting internal gear hub gears
3
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply
a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated
position for the desired gear. After you have moved
the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease
the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the
hub to complete the shift.
5
Figure 16.
A. Hills
B. Greatest Speed
1. Smallest front
4. Largest front
2. Chain
5. Smallest rear
b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest
hills. The numerically largest gear is for the greatest
speed.
3. Largest rear
32
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to
a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an
upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to
an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is
not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,
find the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear
which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling
— and experiment with upshifting and downshifting
to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice
shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or
other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence.
Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to
a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you
have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be
mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails
to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances
are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take
the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
4.E - Pedals
the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of highperformance pedal, you must take extra care
to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp
surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level,
you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design,
or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can
show you a number of options and make suitable
recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet
correctly positioned and engaged with the
pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot
over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum
pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened,
keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation
cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give
some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work
most effectively with cycling shoes designed
for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain
how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep
treaded soles or welts which might allow the foot
to be trapped should not be used with toeclips
and straps.
WARNING
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front
wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer
while a pedal is in the forwardmost position.
This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is
avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the
outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
This technique will also prevent the inside pedal
from striking the ground in a turn.
GETTING INTO AND OUT OF PEDALS WITH
TOECLIPS AND STRAPS REQUIRES SKILL
WHICH CAN ONLY BE ACQUIRED WITH
PRACTICE.
Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique
requires concentration which can distract your
attention and cause you to lose control and fall.
Practice the use of toeclips and straps where
there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep
the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until
your technique and confidence in getting in and
out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic
with your toe straps tight.
WARNING
TOE OVERLAP COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE
CONTROL AND FALL. ASK YOUR DEALER TO
HELP YOU DETERMINE IF THE COMBINATION
OF FRAME SIZE, CRANK ARM LENGTH, PEDAL
DESIGN AND SHOES YOU WILL USE RESULTS IN
PEDAL OVERLAP.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in
pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely
in the correct position for maximum pedaling
efficiency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on
the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating
spring-loaded fixture on the pedal.
Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep
the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down
when making sharp turns.
(continued on next page...)
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that
have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.
These surfaces are designed to add safety by
increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and
33
PART I
4.F - Bicycle Suspension
(continued from previous page...)
Many bicycles are equipped with suspension
systems. There are many different types of
suspension systems — too many to deal with
individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a
suspension system of any kind, be sure to read
and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup
and service instructions. If you do not have the
manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or
contact the manufacturer.
They only engage or disengage with a very specific
motion which must be practiced until it becomes
instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats
which are compatible with the make and model
pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider
to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or
disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s
instructions, or ask your dealer to show you how to
make this adjustment. Use the easiest setting until
engaging and disengaging becomes a reflex action,
but always make sure that there is sufficient tension
to prevent unintended release of your foot from the
pedal.
WARNING
FAILURE TO MAINTAIN, CHECK AND PROPERLY
ADJUST THE SUSPENSION SYSTEM MAY
RESULT IN SUSPENSION MALFUNCTION,
WHICH MAY CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL
AND FALL.
WARNING
If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you
may develop also increases your risk of injury. For
example, when braking, the front of a suspended
bike dips. You could lose control and fall if you do not
have experience with this system. Learn to handle
your suspension system safely. See also SECTION
4.C.
CLIPLESS PEDALS ARE INTENDED FOR USE
WITH SHOES SPECIFICALLY MADE TO FIT THEM
AND ARE DESIGNED TO FIRMLY KEEP THE
FOOT ENGAGED WITH THE PEDAL.
DO NOT USE SHOES WHICH DO NOT ENGAGE
THE PEDALS CORRECTLY.
WARNING
Practice is required to learn to engage and
disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and
disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the
technique requires concentration which can distract
your attention and cause you to lose control and
fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless
pedals in a place where there are no obstacles,
hazards or traffic; and be sure to follow the pedal
manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If
you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see
your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
CHANGING SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT CAN
CHANGE THE HANDLING AND BRAKING
CHARACTERISTICS OF YOUR BICYCLE.
Never change suspension adjustment unless
you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension
system manufacturer’s instructions and
recommendations, and always check for changes
in the handling and braking characteristics of the
bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking
a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.
34
Suspension can increase control and comfort by
allowing the wheels to better follow the terrain. This
enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster;
but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities
of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider.
Increasing your skill will take time and practice.
Proceed carefully until you have learned to handle
the full capabilities of your bike.
WARNING
NEVER INFLATE A TIRE BEYOND THE
MAXIMUM PRESSURE MARKED ON THE TIRE’S
SIDEWALL OR THE WHEEL RIM.
If the maximum pressure rating for the wheel
rim is lower than the maximum pressure
shown on the tire, always use the lower rating.
Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure
may blow the tire off the rim or damage the
wheel rim, which could cause damage to the bike
and injury to the rider and bystanders.
WARNING
Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with
some types of suspension systems. Before
retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check
with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure
that what you want to do is compatible with the
bicycle’s design. Failing to do so can result in
catastrophic frame failure.
4.G Tires and Tubes
1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and
specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs
to tires designed to perform best under very specific
weather or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained
experience with your new bike, you feel that a
different tire might better suit your riding needs,
your dealer can help you select the most appropriate
design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some highperformance tires the specific recommended use,
are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see fig. 17).
The part of this information which is most important
to you is Tire Pressure. But some wheel rim
manufacturers also specify maximum tire pressure
with a label on the rim.
Figure 17.
The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tire to the
correct pressure is with a bicycle pump which has a
built-in pressure gauge.
(continued on next page...)
35
PART I
CAUTION
(continued from previous page...)
Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be
inaccurate and should not be relied upon for
consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead,
use a high quality dial gauge.
WARNING
THERE IS A SAFETY RISK IN USING GAS
STATION AIR HOSES OR OTHER AIR
COMPRESSORS.
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure
for the kind of riding you will most often do, and
have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure.
Then, check inflation as described in SECTION 1.C so
you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look
and feel when you don’t have access to a gauge.
They are not made for bicycle tires. They move
a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise
the pressure in your tire very rapidly, which could
cause the tube to explode.
Some tires may need to be brought up to pressure
every week or two. So, it is important to check your
tire pressures before every ride.
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure
or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under
different terrain or weather conditions depends
largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its
maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest
rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest
ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry
pavement.
Some special high-performance tires have
unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed
to work better in one direction than in the other. The
sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an
arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your
bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are
mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the
recommended pressure range, give the best
performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hardpacked clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as
deep, dry sand.
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the
riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by
allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the
inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
36
2. Tire Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves:
The Schrader Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle
pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to
the valve stems on your bicycle.
Schrader valve
The Schrader valve (fig. 18) is like the valve on a car
tire. To inflate a Schrader valve tube, remove the
valve cap and clamp the pump fitting onto the end
of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schrader valve,
depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the
end of a key or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve (fig. 18) has a narrower diameter and
is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve
tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the
valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem
lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it
up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head,
and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a Schrader
pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available
at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem
once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits into
the Schrader pump fitting. Close the valve after
inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the
valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.
Presta valve
Valve Stem
Locknut
Figure 18.
WARNING
We highly recommend that you carry a spare
inner tube when you ride your bike.
PATCHING A TUBE IS AN EMERGENCY REPAIR.
If you do not apply the patch correctly or apply
several patches, the tube can fail, resulting in
possible tube failure, which could cause you to
loose control and fall. Replace a patched tube as
soon as possible.
37
PART I
section 5. service
If you want to learn to do major service and repair
work on your bike, you have three options:
WARNING
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s
installation and service instructions for the
components on your bike, or contact the
component manufacturer.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle
repair.
TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES HAVE MADE
BICYCLES AND BICYCLE COMPONENTS MORE
COMPLEX, AND THE PACE OF INNOVATION IS
INCREASING.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle
repair courses in your area.
IT IS IMPOSSIBLE FOR THIS MANUAL TO
PROVIDE ALL THE INFORMATION REQUIRED TO
PROPERLY REPAIR AND/OR MAINTAIN YOUR
BICYCLE.
We recommend that you ask your dealer
to check the quality of your work the
first time you work on something and
before you ride the bike, just to make
sure that you did everything correctly.
Since that will require the time of a
mechanic, there may be a modest charge
for this service.
In order to help minimize the chances of an
accident and possible injury, it is critical that
you have any repair or maintenance which is not
specifically described in this manual performed
by your dealer. Equally important is that your
individual maintenance requirements will be
determined by everything from your riding style
to geographic location.
We also recommend that you ask your
dealer for guidance on what spare
parts, such as inner tubes, light bulbs,
etc. it would be appropriate for you
to have once you have learned how to
replace such parts when they require
replacement.
Consult your dealer for help in determining
your maintenance requirements.
WARNING
MANY BICYCLE SERVICE AND REPAIR TASKS
REQUIRE SPECIAL KNOWLEDGE AND TOOLS.
Do not begin any adjustments or service on
your bicycle until you have learned from your
dealer how to properly complete them. Improper
adjustment or service may result in damage to
the bicycle or in an accident which can cause
serious injury or death.
38
5.A - Service Intervals
4. AFTER EVERY LONG OR HARD RIDE OR AFTER
EVERY 10 TO 20 HOURS OF RIDING:
Some service and maintenance can and should be
performed by the owner, and require no special
tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in this
manual.
•
Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike
forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you
feel a clunk with each forward or backward
movement of the bike, you probably have a loose
headset. Have your dealer check it.
•
Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it
from side to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any
binding or roughness in the steering, you may
have a tight headset. Have your dealer check it.
•
Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from
the center line of the bike; then do the same with
the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have
your dealer check it.
•
Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look
worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time
to have the dealer adjust or replace them.
•
Carefully check the control cables and cable
housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have
your dealer replace them.
•
Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either
side of each wheel between your thumb and
index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If
any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel
for tension and trueness.
•
Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises.
Have your dealer replace them if necessary.
•
Check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings,
dents, and scratches. Consult your dealer if you
see any rim damage.
•
Check to make sure that all parts and accessories
are still secure, and tighten any which are not.
The following are examples of the type of service
you should perform yourself. All other service,
maintenance and repair should be performed in
a properly equipped facility by a qualified bicycle
mechanic using the correct tools and procedures
specified by the manufacturer.
1. BREAK-IN PERIOD: Your bike will last longer
and work better if you break it in before riding
it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may
stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used
and may require readjustment by your dealer.
Your Mechanical Safety Check (SECTION 1.C)
will help you identify some things that need
readjustment. But even if everything seems fine
to you, it’s best to take your bike back to the
dealer for a checkup.
Dealers typically suggest you bring the bike in
for a 30 day checkup.
Another way to judge when it’s time for the first
checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five
hours of hard off-road use, or about 10 to 15
hours of on-road or more casual off-road use.
But if you think something is wrong with the
bike, take it to your dealer before riding it again.
2. BEFORE EVERY RIDE: Mechanical Safety Check
(SECTION 1.C)
3. AFTER EVERY LONG OR HARD RIDE: If the
bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at
least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly
lubricate the chain’s rollers with a good quality
bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe off excess lubricant
with a lint-free cloth. Lubrication is a function
of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best
lubricants and the recommended lubrication
frequency for your area.
(continued on next page...)
39
PART I
WARNING
(continued from previous page...)
•
LIKE ANY MECHANICAL DEVICE, A BICYCLE
AND ITS COMPONENTS ARE SUBJECT TO
WEAR AND STRESS. DIFFERENT MATERIALS
AND MECHANISMS WEAR OR FATIGUE FROM
STRESS AT DIFFERENT RATES AND HAVE
DIFFERENT LIFE CYCLES.
Check the frame, particularly in the area around
all tube joints; the handlebars; the stem; and
the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or
discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused
fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of
its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also
PART II, SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
IF A COMPONENT’S LIFE CYCLE IS EXCEEDED,
THE COMPONENT CAN SUDDENLY AND
CATASTROPHICALLY FAIL, CAUSING SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH TO THE RIDER.
5. AS REQUIRED: If either brake lever fails the
Mechanical Safety Check (SECTION 1.C), don’t
ride the bike. Have your dealer check the
brakes. If the chain won’t shift smoothly and
quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur is out of
adjustment. See your dealer.
6. EVERY 25 (HARD OFF-ROAD) TO 50 (ON-ROAD)
HOURS OF RIDING: Take your bike to your dealer
for a complete checkup.
Scratches, cracks, fraying and discoloration
are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate
that a part is at the end of its useful life and
needs to be replaced. While the materials and
workmanship of your bicycle or of individual
components may be covered by a warranty for
a specified period of time by the manufacturer,
this is no guarantee that the product will last
the term of the warranty.
Product life is often related to the kind
of riding you do and to the treatment
to which you submit the bicycle.
The bicycle’s warranty is not meant to suggest
that the bicycle cannot be broken or will last
forever. It only means that the bicycle is covered
subject to the terms of the warranty.
Please be sure to read PART II, SECTION D.
INSPECT FOR SAFETY, “The Lifespan of Your
Bicycle and Its Components.”
40
5.B - If Your Bicycle
Sustains An Impact:
First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of
them as best you can. Seek medical help if necessary.
Next, check your bike for damage.
After any crash, take your bike to your
dealer for a thorough check.
Carbon composite components, including fames,
wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets, brakes, etc.
which have sustained an impact must not be ridden
until they have been disassembled and thoroughly
inspected by a qualified mechanic.
See also Bicycle Lifespan on page 76.
WARNING
A CRASH OR OTHER IMPACT CAN PUT
EXTRAORDINARY STRESS ON BICYCLE
COMPONENTS, CAUSING THEM TO FATIGUE
PREMATURELY. COMPONENTS SUFFERING
FROM STRESS FATIGUE CAN FAIL SUDDENLY
AND CATASTROPHICALLY, CAUSING LOSS OF
CONTROL, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
41
PART II
Section A. important
safety information
Bicycling Inherent Risk
WARNING
BICYCLING IS AN ACTIVE SPORT WITH
INHERENT RISK.
A Wide Range Of Bicycling
Injuries Are Possible
“Inherent risk,“ means that due to the nature of
bicycle riding, the situations you encounter while
riding expose you to the risk of serious injury,
paralysis, or death in an accident.
Many hazards are described, and we have attempted
to explain how to avoid or minimize the dangers.
Because any fall can result in serious injury, paralysis
or death we do not repeat the warning of these
potential consequences every time we call attention
to a hazard. Some low speed falls may result in
serious injuries, and some wild high speed falls may
result in none. The reality is that the exact nature
of the consequences of a fall or accident is not
predictable.
The risk cannot be taken away or eliminated.
You can minimize risk by doing the following:
■ Bicycle training & practice
■ Progressive step-by-step learning of new
cycling skills
■ The good judgement to ride in control
■ Bicycle experience, riding with experienced
riders
Bicycles Cannot Protect You
■ Use of a proper bicycle helmet and
appropriate protective gear
Bicycles are lightweight, human-powered vehicles.
Unlike a car, much like a motorcycle, there is no
restraint system for your body, no protective
structure around your body. Crash worthiness cannot
be a design criterion. A rider sits on a bicycle and
can be easily thrown off for many reasons including
overly hard use of the front brakes (See PART I,
SECTION 4.C Brakes) or striking an obstacle.
■ Reading and thinking about this entire
owner’s manual, all owner’s manual
supplements and instructions that came
with your bicycle are essential to your safety
and part of the learning process. Visit www.
cannondale.com/bikes/tech/manuals.
■ Riding within your own unique capabilities
and considering the conditions where you
are riding.
42
Warning Label
Riding In Traffic, Commuting
We urge you to locate the warning label on your
bike. It contains important information that you
and anyone else who rides your bike should read and
follow.
WARNING
RIDING IN TRAFFIC (AND COMMUTING) IS
HAZARDOUS AND YOU CAN BE SEVERELY
INJURED OR KILLED DOING IT.
Do not remove it. If you bought an older bike or
are refinishing one of our bikes, contact us for a no
charge replacement.
As noted in PART I of this manual, you must
learn and obey local traffic laws. Riding in traffic
is hazardous. We cannot teach you about all of
these hazards.
We suggest:
■ Effective Cycling (ISBN 0-262-06159-7) by
John Forester.
■ And, www.bicyclesafe.com by Michael
Bluejay “How to Not Get Hit by Cars:
Important lessons on Bicycle Safety”
Here are just some important topics you must
consider:
Traffic Law, Accidents,Intersections,
Commuting And Utility Cycling Where To Ride,
On Roadway,Changing Lanes In Traffic,Riding
At Night, Improving Your Odds With Safety,
Lighting , And Weather Equipment
Figure 19.
Many bike clubs conduct training programs
and workshops that focus on these and other
safe cycling topics. Ask at your local bike shop.
Seek the advice of an experienced bicycle
commuter at your retailer.
43
PART II
Riding At Night, Dusk, Dawn
Mountain Biking At Night:
Mountain biking at night is risky. Take the
challenges outlined in SECTION C. and add
another level of difficulty and risk. Seeing the
terrain is much more difficult at night. Mountain
biking at night is only for skilled mountain bikers,
on familiar terrain, with excellent light systems,
riding with other skilled mountain bikers, and
riding cautiously.
WARNING
RIDING AT NIGHT/DUSK OR AT DAWN IS VERY
HAZARDOUS.
Avoid riding at night. If you choose to ride at
night:
Adding Lighting:
■ Install front and rear lights.
Reflectors are not a substitute for proper lights. It
is your responsibility to equip your bicycle with all
national, state and locally mandated lights.
■ Install a blinker or strobe light.
■ Check your state or national laws. Lights
are required for riding at dusk, night, or
dawn.
Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times
of poor visibility without a bicycle lighting system
which meets local and state laws and without
reflectors is dangerous and may result in serious
injury or death.
■ Wear reflective clothing.
■ Stay alert, others may not see you.
■ Make sure your bicycle is equipped with
all required reflectors, lights, strobes, or
blinkers.
If you ride your bike before dawn or after dusk,
your bicycle must be equipped with lights so that
you can see the road and avoid road hazards,
and so that others can see you. Traffic laws treat
bicycles like any other vehicle. That means you
must have a white front and a red rear light
operating if you are riding after dusk. Your bike
dealer can recommend a battery or generator
powered lighting system appropriate to your
needs.
Required Reflectors
The location and type of each reflector on
your bike is required by a national authority,
in the US, the US Consumer Product Safety
Commission (CPSC). Your Cannondale bike must
be delivered with: 1. A front mounted forward
facing reflector 2. A rear mounted, rear facing
reflector, 3. A spoke mounted reflector on each
wheel, 4. Front and rear facing reflectors on the
left and right pedal. DO NOT REMOVE, BLOCK,
OR COVER REFLECTORS.
Flashing (blinker) and Strobe Lighting
We also strongly urges you to use a flashing light
or strobe. All of us at who ride at night or in
conditions of lower visibility use flashers. They can
save your life. (Yeah, we know there may be legal
issues with flashers in some areas. They can save
your life. Enough said.)
Much Higher Risks At Night
The risk of an accident, particularly being struck
by a motor vehicle, is much higher at night. If
you choose to accept this higher risk, improve
your odds with a proper lighting system, strobe
light, light colored reflective clothing and careful
riding. Seek the advice of an experienced bicycle
commuter at your retailer.
44
Refinishing
Modifications
WARNING
WARNING
WE KNOW THAT BIKE OWNER’S REFINISH
AND REPAINT BIKES. NO OWNER’S MANUAL
OR VOIDED WARRANTY WILL PREVENT THIS.
DO NOT MODIFY YOUR BIKE FRAME OR
COMPONENTS IN ANY WAY.
MODIFICATIONS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE LEADING
TO FAILURE AND ACCIDENT.
WE CAN’T PREDICT ALL THE THINGS THAT
COULD GO WRONG IN THE REFINISHING
PROCESS.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED OR KILLED.
Do not physically alter your frame in any way.
Don’t sandblast, shot blast or glass bead your
frame. Don’t use any coarse sandpaper on
your bike. Don’t grind, wire brush, file, scrape
or machine buff your frame. Don’t weld, braze
or let anyone touch your frame with a torch.
Don’t drill any holes in your frame. Don’t acid
dip or etch your frame. Don’t anodize or chrome
plate your frame. Any of these procedures will
seriously harm the structural integrity and/
or longevity of your frame, which could lead to
serious accident and injury.
WHAT WE HOPE TO COMMUNICATE TO YOU IN
THE FORM OF THIS WARNING IS THAT:
1. Incorrectly refinishing or repainting your bike
can lead to a serious accident.
2. Refinishing could hide structural damage
(fatigue cracks, dented or bent tubes, or
other structural problems) also leading to
an accident. You can be injured or killed.
PRECAUTIONS:
•
Chemicals that might be used in refinishing
might attack your frame and/or fork (carbon
fiber) and weaken them.
•
Removing original paint, decals (sanding,
scouring, scratching, or blasting) can actually
remove frame material possibly weakening
them.
•
Refinishing can not fix structural problems;
refinishing might conceal serious damage.
Modifications will void any applicable
warranty.
IF YOU DECIDE TO REFINISH: (suggestions)
•
Understand that your Cannondale warranty will
be voided
•
Go to a professional bicycle repainter (often a
frame builder).
•
Ask about the professional’s experience with
aluminum and/or carbon frames.
• Be sure your frame is never sanded with paper
coarser than 150 grit.
45
PART II
Child Carriers
Bicycles Have Sharp Surfaces
WARNING
WARNING
CHILD CARRIERS ADD WEIGHT AND RAISE THE
CENTER OF GRAVITY, MAKING BALANCE AND
CORNERING MORE DIFFICULT. IF YOU LOOSE
CONTROL, YOU AND YOUR CHILD PASSENGER
CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED OR KILLED.
BICYCLES HAVE EXPOSED SHARP SURFACES.
Exercise caution with chainrings and pointed,
aggressive platform pedals, as they have sharp
and potentially dangerous surfaces. Use caution
when working on your bike. If you slip or fall you
could be injured.
We urge you NOT to install child carriers on
bicycles. If you choose to install a child carrier,
have an experienced bicycle mechanic install it.
Install only on a compatible bicycle. If you insist
on using a child carrier we urge that you confirm
with both the carrier rack manufacturer and the
child carrier manufacturer that the two products
are safely compatible. Always use caution when
riding with a child carrier.
Bar Ends
We urge consumers not to install “Bar Ends” on
bicycles. Some handlebars are designed to take
the added stress of bar ends, others are not. Very
lightweight handlebars may be particularly poorly
suited for bar ends. If you want bar ends, consult
your authorized dealer about suitable choices,
read and follow instructions and warnings that
accompany the ­handlebars and bar ends, and inspect
the handlebars and bar ends regularly.
Some saddles are equipped with coil springs. If
you use a rear rack mounted child carrier there
is a risk that a child’s fingers could be injured if
trapped in the coil springs when the rider hits a
bump and the springs compress. Be sure that
the child cannot reach the springs when properly
strapped in the carrier.
Installing Accessories
We encourage use of trailers for children. Be very
careful when towing a trailer. Remember that
braking distances increase, and the trailer will
track inside the line of the bicycle when making
turns. Children should always wear helmets
when riding in a child carrier or trailer. Use of
bicycle helmets on children is required by law in
many areas.
Have all accessories mounted by your authorized
dealer. Be sure that any accessory you or your
authorized retailer fits to your bike does not block or
interfere with nationally required reflectors or lights.
WARNING
INCOMPATIBLE ACCESSORIES OR POORLY OR
IMPROPERLY MOUNTED ACCESSORIES CAN
ADVERSELY AFFECT THE P
­ ERFORMANCE OF
YOUR BICYCLE AND MAY BE UNSAFE.
46
Aerodynamic Handlebars
WARNING
Aerodynamic or “Triathlon” handlebar extensions
are fitted to some triathlon or racing bikes. They are
also added by customers. Understand that when
riding on these extensions your steering and braking
are adversely affected. When on the extensions,
most riders find it hard to look back over their
shoulder without swerving, inadvertently steering.
Some riders find it harder to move their head/neck
to see forward. Be sure to practice riding with
aero handlebar extensions on hazard and traffic
free roads. Practice the transition from having your
hands on the extensions to having your hands on the
regular handlebars and brake levers.
DO NOT RIDE ON THE AERO HANDLEBAR
EXTENSIONS IN TRAFFIC OR ON DIFFICULT
ROADS.
Ride on the aero handlebar extensions only
when the road is clear of traffic and hazards and
you have a long line of sight.
When using the extensions understand that you
are compromising steering and braking in favor
of speed. If you need to take evasive steering or
braking action while on the extensions you could
have an accident, with risk of serious injury,
paralysis or death.
Aerodynamic handlebars and extensions are a
design trade-off which positions you further
forward than on a conventional road bike, so:
CONVENTIONAL ROAD
■ Overly hard use of the front brakes will pitch
you forward, off the bike, more easily.
■ Rear braking performance will not equal that
of a conventional road bike.
AERODYNAMIC
When braking hard on any bike, including
time trial or triathalon, you must shift weight
back to allow front brake use without pitching
yourself forward, off the bike. Shifting weight
back allows more rear braking effect before the
rear wheel begins to skid when braking hard, or
braking on a steep downhill. See PART1 Section
4C. of this manual.
extensions
Aerodynamic handlebars and extensions are
intended for racing and competition in time
trial and triathalon and are poorly suited for
riding in cities or congested urban areas where
conflicts with cars will frequently require panic
braking.
brake levers
Lower/ forward
on extensions
47
PART II
About Shimmy
Whether or not you have overlap, or how much
overlap you have can be changed. Be aware that toe
clearance can be increased or decreased by changes
in crank arm length, size of pedals or toe clips used,
size of tires used, addition of fenders, size/design of
shoes worn.
Some cyclists have experienced disturbing “shimmy”
or “vibration” at certain speeds. This symptom is
rarely reported and there is no agreement among
experts as to the cause. Among the proposed causes
of shimmy are: a loose headset, frame alignment
problems, weight of front wheel magnets for cycle
computers, and spoke tension.
Larger riders on larger frames are thought by some to
be more likely to experience such vibration.
If you experience such a vibration, gently apply the
brakes and slow down. Another suggestion is to
press your leg against the top tube as you slow down.
FRONT
TIRE
TURNED
WARNING
TOE CLIP
OVERLAP
LEFT OR
RIGHT
PEDAL
IF YOU EXPERIENCE “SHIMMY,” DO NOT RIDE
CONTINUE TO RIDE YOUR BIKE. TAKE THE
BICYCLE TO YOUR RETAILER FOR INSPECTION,
SERVICE, OR CHANGES.
Figure 20.
Toe Overlap or toe
clip overlap
WARNING
TOE CLIP OVERLAP COULD CAUSE YOU TO
LOSE CONTROL OF YOUR BIKE, FALL AND BE
SERIOUSLY INJURED, PARALYZED OR KILLED.
What is It?
What is It? “Toe overlap” or “Toe clip overlap”
describes the toe of your shoe, your shoe attached to
a clipless pedal or your toe clip contacting the front
tire (or front fender). This may occur when a pedal
is all the way forward and the front wheel is turned
sharply to a position where the toe or toe clip can
contact the tire (or fender). If you ride with clipless
pedals, attach your riding shoes to the pedals and
check for front tire clearance. If you ride with toe
clips, check for front tire clearance.
Please consult with your retailer on the simple
steps you must follow to avoid an accident.
Insist that your retailer work with you to
determine if your own combination of bicycle,
shoe(s) and components have this common
design feature.
“Toe clip overlap” is common on small frame size
bicycles. It is simple to avoid any contact with the
front tire: have the inside pedal up before beginning
a turn. As you turn to the left, the inside (left)
pedal should be positioned at twelve o’clock. As
you turn to the right, the inside (right) pedal should
be positioned at twelve o’clock. Having the inside
pedal up will prevent any toe clip-to-tire contact and
maximize cornering ground clearance. Learn to make
it your habit on any sized bike.
48
TIRE SIZE
TIRE & RIM PRESSURE
Compatibility
WARNING
WARNING
Mounting the wrong size tires can result in the
tires hitting the fork or frame when riding. If
this happens, you can lose control of your bike
and you can be thrown off, a moving tire can be
stopped because it touches the fork or frame.
MAXIMUM TIRE PRESSURE MAY BE LIMITED
BY RIM DESIGN.
Do not mount oversized tires, ones that rub or
hit the fork or frame, ones that result in too little
clearance, or ones that can hit the fork or frame
when the suspension is fully compressed or
when riding.
2. NEVER inflate tire above maximum rim
pressure.
1. ALWAYS check both tire sidewall and rim
pressure markings.
In the rapidly evolving area of disc brake specific
lightweight and carbon fiber rims, some rim
manufacturers have specified maximum tire
pressure.
Take care that the tires you select are
compatible with your bike’s fork or frame design.
Also, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations of your front fork and rear
shocks.
Of course a customer might choose any tire, and
a tire may have a maximum pressure listed on
the sidewall that is higher than the maximum
pressure listed on the rim. You must never
exceed the maximum air pressure marked on
the rim.
When you are considering tires for your bike
consider...
The actual measured size of a tire may be
different than its sidewall marking. Each time
you mount a new tire, take the time to inspect
the actual clearance between the rotating tire
and all parts of the frame. The U.S. Consumer
Product Safety Commission (CPSC) requires at
least 1/16” (1.6 mm) tire clearance from any part
of the bike. Allowing for lateral rim flex and a
wheel or rim that is out-of-true will likely mean
choosing a rear tire that provides even more
clearance than the CPSC recommends.
Excess pressure could lead to rim failure, and
an accident, with risk of serious injury, paralysis
or death. If you have any doubt or question,
contact the rim manufacturer or insist that your
Retailer contact the rim manufacturer.
ASK YOUR AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR THE
RIGHT TIRES FOR YOUR BIKE AND ITS
PARTICULAR COMPONENTS!
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED
OR KILLED IN AN ACCIDENT IF YOU IGNORE
THIS WARNING.
49
PART II
How to Check Wheel
Rim Wear
UNDERSTANDING DISC
BRAKES ON Road BIKES
Check the condition of wheel rims wear before
every ride.
Brake
Disc
It is important to your safety, that, you also check
the surface wear of the wheel rims (in addition to
brake pad wear). This is the area of the wheel where
the brake pads contact the rim. Rims can wear out.
How Can You Check Rim Wear?
Some wheels have wear indicators built in. Some
indicators are depressions in the rim lower that the
surface where the pads touch. When the surface
reaches this depression the wheel is worn out. Other
indicators are visible markings or signs that are
exposed to view when the braking surface is worn
out.
Brake
Caliper
Contact Patch
Consult the wheel manufacturer’s instructions/
manuals for information on how to check wear for
your specific wheels.
WARNING
WARNING
Some road bikes are equipped with disc brakes.
Relative to conventional rim brakes, disc brakes
are less affected by water, do not wear or heat
the rims and therefore are more consistent. Disc
brakes also may be more powerful.
Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear and
damage. A worn-out or damaged wheel rim has
reached its maximum usable life and must be
replaced.
To minimize risk of injury or accidents:
■ Riding on unusable “worn-out” or damaged
wheels can lead to braking or wheel failure.
■ Understand that road bikes have a relatively
small tire contact patch (part of the tire
that touches the road). In order to apply
the brakes safely and effectively, you may
need more or less braking force in different
situations. You need to take into account
various road and weather conditions that
can affect traction.
■ Replace your wheel when they become
worn-out or damaged.
■ Do not ride your bike when the wheels are
damaged or worn-out.
■ Ask your Dealer for help with inspecting the
rim wear of your wheels.
■ Disc brakes are excellent, but not some
kind of magic. Take some time riding
your new disc brake road bike in lower risk
circumstances to get used to the feel and
performance of the disc brakes and tires.
You can be severely injured, paralyzed or killed
in an accident if you ignore this message.
You can be severely injured, paralyzed or killed
in an accident if you ignore this message.
50
Brake Power Modulators
Aftermarket Brake Systems
Your bike may be equipped with a brake modulator,
a device installed between the front brake lever and
the front brake to reduce initial front braking force.
(Brake power modulators are also used on the rear
brake of some bicycles.)
WARNING
DO NOT MODIFY YOUR BIKE IN ANY WAY TO
MOUNT BRAKES SYSTEMS. MOD IF CATIONS
CAN DAMAGE YOUR BIKE LEADING TO AN
ACCIDENT. YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED OR
KILLED.
If a rider applies the front brake too strongly or too
suddenly, these devices can help reduce the risk of
locking the front wheel or throwing the rider. Once
the modulator device is bottomed out, the front
brakes have the same power, and the same risks
of overly hard use, as brakes without a modulator.
Modulators are a small help in giving a rider more of
a chance to react correctly.
Choose only brakes that mount to the frame,
swingarm, or fork using only the existing disc
brake, V-brake or cantilever mounts. Do not
modify the existing mounts or clamp, weld, or
in any other way add new or different mounts.
Any modification will void the warranty and may
weaken or damage the frame. For installation
instructions and other warnings, read the
literature provided by the brake manufacturer.
Modulators are not a substitute for practicing and
learning to brake correctly. See PART I, SECTION 4.C.
WARNING
When choosing replacements, please ask your
Authorized Dealer Have your bike’s brakes
installed and adjusted by a professional bike
mechanic.
A BRAKE MODULATOR WILL NOT PREVENT
WHEEL LOCK UP OR BEING THROWN OFF
THE BIKE DUE TO OVERLY HARD OR FAST OR
ABRUPT APPLICATION OF THE BRAKES.
Aftermarket Power Systems
It is important that you understand modulators are
not an intelligent, sophisticated system. Modulators
ARE NOT anti-lock braking systems (ABS). Bicycle
brake modulators are not like ABS in a car. Unlike
automotive ABS there is not an intelligent system of
sensors and computer control. Unlike an ABS system
in a car you cannot just jam on the brakes and let the
system take over. There is no system to think or act
for you.
WARNING
DO NOT INSTALL A POWER SYSTEM (GAS OR
ELECTRIC TYPE) ONTO YOUR BIKE.
Your bike may not have been not designed or
intended for use with any type of aftermarket
power system.
Some people, including sales people, may try to
explain brake modulators on bicycles by saying
that they are “like ABS”. This is misleading and
inaccurate.
There are many types of power systems from
many different manufacturers. We simply can’t
predict what all can go wrong by installing one.
We urge you to ask your retailer to confirm if you
have a brake modulator on your bike. We urge you
to ask your retailer to demonstrate how it works.
We urge you to work with the front brake lever
while standing still to understand how it works. We
urge you to read any brake and brake modulator
instructions that came with your bike.
We can say that installing an aftermarket power
system represents a MAJOR modification of your
bike. It will change the way your bike handles
and fundamentally alter its operation.
When combined with your bike, the power
system can be become dangerous to operate..
For example, the brakes may not be adequate
for higher speeds.
51
PART II
SECTION b. INTENDED USE
WARNING
UNDERSTAND YOUR BIKE AND ITS INTENDED USE. CHOOSING THE WRONG BICYCLE FOR YOUR PURPOSE CAN
BE HAZARDOUS. USING YOUR BIKE THE WRONG WAY IS DANGEROUS.
No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Your retailer can help you pick the “right tool for the job” and help
you understand its limitations. There are many types of bicycles and many variations within each type. We make
many types of mountain, road, racing, hybrid, touring, cyclocross and tandem bicycles.
There are also bicycles that mix features. For example we have road/racing bikes with triple cranks. These bikes
have the low gearing of a touring bike, the quick handling of a racing bike, but are not well suited for carrying
heavy loads on a tour. For that purpose you want a touring bike.
Within each of type of bicycle, one can optimize for certain purposes. Visit your bicycle shop and find someone
with expertise in the area that interests you. Do your own homework. Seemingly small changes such as the choice
of tires can improve or diminish the performance of a bicycle for a certain purpose.
Consult your Authoried Dealer about how you intend to use your bike.
In addition to this section, please consult any Owner’s Manual Supplements or components manufactuer’s
instructions for information on intended use.
Intended Use
Intended Use tables on the following pages contain information from Cannondale, the ASTM International
(ASTM), as well as information required by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). All table
information is part of the picture of intended use for your bike.
Conditions 1-4 are part of the ASTM F 2043-09 voluntary standard in use by the bicycle industry. The tables
include the graphic and description text directly from the standard. Condition 5 is not presently part of the
ASTM voluntary standard although it is in use in the bicycle industry.
ASTM F2043
ASTM F2043
Suitable for
road riding
(only)
ASTM F2043
For off-road
riding and
jumps less than
12” (30cm)
ASTM F2043
For rough
off-road riding
and jumps less
than 24” (61 cm)
For extreme
off-road riding
For extreme riding
User caution advised
Model names listed in the “MODELS” heading includes several recent model years and model variations in
component and color. (e.g., SuperSix Team, SuperSix DI2, SuperSix RED, SuperSix 105, etc.)
If you have any questions, about intended use or the information presented in the tables, please ask your
Authorized Dealer.
For information on the F-2043-09 ASTM International standard, see http://www.astm.org.
52
High-Performance Road
MODELS
SuperSix EVO, Super Six, System Six, Slice Carbon, Six Carbon, Six,
Slice, Synapse Carbon, Synapse, CAAD 10, CAAD9, CAAD 8, CAAD 7,
Ironman, CAPO, All Road Tandems (see next page)
ASTM Condition 1
ASTM F2043
“This is a set of conditions for the operation of a bicycle on a regular
paved or smooth surface where tires may unitentionally lose ground
contact.”
Suitable for
road riding
(only)
Graphic: “Suitable for road riding (only)”
INTENDED
To be ridden on paved roads only.
NOT INTENDED
For off-road, cyclocross, or touring with racks or panniers.
TRADE OFF
Material use is optimized to deliver both light weight and specific
performance. You must understand that (1) these types of bikes
are intended to give an aggressive racer or competitive cyclist a
performance advantage over a relatively short product life, (2) a less
aggressive rider will enjoy longer frame life, (3) you are choosing
light weight (shorter frame life) over more frame weight and a
longer frame life, (4) you are choosing light weight over more dent
resistant or rugged frames that weigh more. All frames that are
very light need frequent inspection for cracks that would indicate
that the frame is worn out from fatigue. These frames are likely
to be damaged or broken in a crash. They are not designed to take
abuse or be a rugged workhorse.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
* Seat Bag / Handlebar Bag Only
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
275/125
10/4.5*
285/126
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53
PART II
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High-Performance Road
MODEL
All Road Tandems
INTENDED
Are designed to be ridden on paved roads only. They are not
designed for mountain biking or off-road use. Road tandems are
designed for touring with racks and panniers.
NOT INTENDED
Road tandem should not be taken off-road or used as a mountain
tandem.
Please read your Tandems Owner’s Manual Supplement. It contains
important safety information specific to tandem riding!
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
500 / 227
75 / 34
575 / 261
54
GENERAl purpose riding
MODEL
Hooligan, Street, Touring, Trekking, Adventure, Comfort, Quick,
Quick Full Carbon, Bad Boy, ON
All Cyclocross (see next page)
All Street and Mountain Tandems (see next page)
ASTM Condition 2
ASTM F2043
For off-road
riding and
jumps less than
12” (30cm)
“This is a set of conditions for the operation of a bicycle that
includes Condition1 as well as unpaved and gravel roads and trails
withmoderate grades. Contact with irregular terrain and loss of
tire contact with the ground may occur. Jumps should be limited to
30cm (12in.) or less.”
Graphic: “For off-road riding and jumps less than 12” (30cm)”
INTENDED
For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in good condition, and
bike paths.
NOT INTENDED
For off-road or mountain bike use, or for any kind of jumping.
Some of these bikes have suspension features, but these features
are designed to add comfort, not off-road capability. Some come
with relatively wide tires that are well suited to gravel or dirt paths.
Some come with relatively narrow tires that are best suited to
faster riding on pavement. If you ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry
heavier loads or want more tire durability talk to your dealer about
wider tires.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT1
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
300 / 136
30 / 14
330 / 150
55/25
355/161
Touring/Trekking
300/136
(continued on next page...)
55
PART II
(continued from previous page...)
MODEL
All Cyclocross
INTENDED
For cyclocross riding, training and racing. Cyclocross involves riding
on a variety of terrain and surfaces including dirt or mud surfaces.
Cyclocross bikes also work well for all weather rough road riding and
commuting.
NOT INTENDED
For off road or mountain bike use, or jumping. Cyclocross riders and
racers dismount before reaching an obstacle, carry their bike over
the obstacle and then remount. Cyclocross bikes are not intended
for mountain bike use. The relatively large road bike size wheels are
faster than the smaller mountain bike wheels, but not as strong.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
300 / 136
30 / 13.6
330 / 150
MODEL
All Street and Mountain Tandems
INTENDED
The challenges of mountain biking are obvious, but are outlined in
PART II, SECTION C. MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDING of this manual . The
added challenges of tandem riding, mean that you should limit offroad tandem riding to easy-moderate terrain.
Please read your Cannondale Tandems Owner’s Manual
Supplement. It contains important safety information specific to
tandem riding!
NOT INTENDED
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
For very agressive mountain bike riding. Mountain tandems are
most definitely NOT for Downhill, Freeriding, North Shore. Choose
terrain with the abilities of both the Tandem’s captain and stoker
in mind.
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
500 / 227
75 / 34
575 / 261
56
Cross-Country, Marathon, Hardtails
MODEL
Trigger 26, CO2, 29’ER, Rush Carbon, Rush, Taurine, Caffeine,
Scalpel, F-Series, Law Enforcement, Flash, Trail, Trail SL
ASTM Condition 3
ASTM F2043
For rough
off-road riding
and jumps less
than 24” (61 cm)
“This is a set of conditions for the operation of a bicycle that
includes Condition 1 and Condition 2 as well as rough trails, rough
un-paved roads, and rough technical areas and unimproved trails.
Jumps of 60 cm (24 in.) or less are anticipated.”
Graphic: “For rough off-road riding and jumps less than 24” (61
cm)”
INTENDED
For cross-country riding and racing which ranges from mild to
aggressive over intermediate terrain (e.g., hilly with small obstacles
like roots, rocks, loose surfaces and hard pack and depressions).
There are no large “sick drop” or drop offs, jumps or launches
(wooden structures, dirt embankments) requiring long suspension
travel or heavy duty components. Cross-country and marathon
equipment (tires, shocks, frames, drive trains) are light-weight,
favoring nimble speed over brute force. Suspension travel is
relatively short since the bike is intended to move quickly on the
ground and not spend time in the air landing hard and hammering
through things.
NOT INTENDED
For use in extreme forms of jumping/riding such as hardcore
mountain, Freeriding, Downhill, North Shore, Dirt Jumping, Hucking
etc.
TRADE OFF
Cross-Country, bikes are lighter, faster to ride uphill, and more
nimble than All-Mountain bikes. Cross-Country, trail, and Marathon
bikes trade off some ruggedness for pedaling efficiency and uphill
speed.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
* Seat Bag Only
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
300 / 136
5 / 2.3*
305 / 138
Front suspension frames manufactured w/ original equipment
seatstay and dropout rack mounts only.
300 / 136
55 / 25
57
355 / 161
PART II
ALL MOUNTAIN, OverMountain
MODELS
Trigger 29, Prophet, Jekyll, Rize, RZ, Moto, Scarlet, Claymore
ASTM Condition 4
ASTM F2043
For extreme
off-road riding
“This is a set of conditions for operation of a bicycle that includes
Conditions 1,2, and 3 and downhill grades on rough trails as speeds
in excess of 40km/h (25 mph) or extreme jumping or both. Use of a
bicycle in these conditions is strongly dependent on rider experience
and skills.”
Graphic: “For extreme off-road riding”
INTENDED
For trail and uphill riding. All-Mountain bicycles are: (1) more heavy
duty than cross country bikes or trail bikes, but less heavy duty than
Freeride bikes, (2) lighter and more nimble than Freeride bikes,
(3) heavier and have more suspension travel than a cross country
bike, allowing them to be ridden in more difficult terrain, over larger
obstacles and moderate jumps, (4) intermediate in suspension
travel and use components that fit the intermediate intended use,
(5) cover a fairly wide range of intended use, and within this range
are models that are more or less heavy duty. Talk to your retailer
about your needs and these models.
NOT INTENDED
For Hardcore Freeriding, Extreme Downhill, Dirt Jumping, Slopestyle,
or very aggressive or extreme riding.
TRADE OFF
All-Mountain bikes are more rugged than cross country bikes, for
riding more difficult terrain. All-Mountain bikes are heavier and
harder to ride uphill than cross country bikes. All-Mountain bikes
are lighter, more nimble and easier to ride uphill than Freeride bikes.
All-Mountain bikes are not as rugged as Freeride bikes and must
not be used for more extreme riding and terrain.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
* Seat Bag Only
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
300 / 136
5 / 2.3*
305 / 138
58
GRAVITY, FREERIDE, DOWNHILL, DIRT JUMP
MODELS
Gemini, Perp, Judge
Includes Chase dirt jump models (see next page)
For extreme riding
User caution advised
CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or aggressive riding
on rougher surfaces, or landing on flat surfaces. However, this type of
riding is extremely hazardous and puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle
which may overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you choose to ride in
Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety precautions such
as more frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment. You
should also wear comprehensive safety equipment such as a full-face
helmet, pads, and body armor.
Graphic: “For extreme riding,” “User caution advised”
INTENDED
For riding that includes the most difficult terrain that only very skilled
riders should attempt.
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill are terms which describe hardcore
mountain, north shore, slopestyle. This is “extreme” riding and the
terms describing it are constantly evolving.
Gravity,Freeride, and Downhill bikes are: (1) heavier and have more
suspension travel than All-Mountain bikes, allowing them to be ridden
in more difficult terrain, over larger obstacles and larger jumps, (2) the
longest in suspension travel and use components that fit heavy duty
intended use. While all that is true, there is no guarantee that extreme
riding will not break a Freeride bike.
THE TERRAIN AND TYPE OF RIDING THAT FREERIDE BIKES ARE
DESIGNED FOR IS INHERENTLY DANGEROUS.
Appropriate equipment, such as a Freeride bike, does not change this
reality. In this kind of riding, bad judgment, bad luck, or riding beyond
your capabilities can easily result in an accident, where you could be
seriously injured, paralyzed or killed.
NOT INTENDED
To be an excuse to try anything! Read our “Freeride & Downhill”
warning. See page 64.
TRADE OFF
Freeride bikes are more rugged than All-Mountain bikes, for riding more
difficult terrain. Freeride bikes are heavier and harder to ride uphill than
All-Mountain bikes.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
* Seat Bag Only
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
300 / 136
5 / 2.3*
305 / 138
(continued on next page...)
59
PART II
(continued from previous page...)
MODELS
All CHASE dirt jump models
INTENDED
For man-made dirt jumps, ramps, skate parks other predictable
obstacles and terrain where riders need and use skill and bike
control, rather than suspension. Dirt Jumping bikes are used much
like heavy duty BMX bikes.
A Dirt Jumping bike does not give you skills to jump! Read our
“Freeride & Downhill” warning. See page 64. The same message is
true.
NOT INTENDED
For terrain, drop offs or landings where large amounts of
suspension travel are needed to help absorb the shock of landing
and help maintain control.
TRADE OFF
Dirt Jumping bikes are lighter and more nimble than Freeride bikes,
but they have no rear suspension and the suspension travel in the
front is much shorter.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER (lbs/kg)
LUGGAGE (lbs/kg)
TOTAL (lbs/kg)
300 / 136
0
300 / 136
60
SECTION C.
MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDING
Bike Types
WARNING
PICK A MOUNTAIN BIKE FOR HOW YOU WILL
RIDE.
See also APPENDIX B. Maximum Fork Length.
See also SECTION B. Intended Use.
There are now many different kinds of
“mountain bikes.” Cannondale makes mountain
bikes ranging from the light, nimble Rush and
Scalpels, designed for cross country (XC) racing,
to our rugged, long-travel freeride bikes. A
Scalpel is not designed for freeride! If you
try using your bike for something it was not
intended, you may break it with risk of serious
injury, paralysis or death.
Off-Road Riding
Off road riding usually involves many, many
variables such as constantly changing traction,
obstacles, changes in line of sight, up hill, down
hill, soft surfaces, dry surfaces, wet surfaces.
Off road riding requires managing a complex and
constantly changing rider–to-bicycle feedback
loop of traction, weight distribution, application
of power, application of brakes and steering driven
by the conditions one encounters. The complexity
and ever-changing nature of off road riding requires
focus, concentration, strength, fitness and learning
to read the trail. The art of managing all this while
surrounded by nature makes this a challenging and
wonderful sport.
Matching the intended use of any kind of
mountain bike to your expected riding is import.
Read PART II SECTION B. INTENDED USE.
Inspection and
Maintenance Routines
If you have ridden your mountain bike on a paved
road, or on a gravel or dirt road, you have done
very little in the way of learning to mountain bike.
Learning to ride off road is a process. It does not
automatically occur because you have a mountain
bike. Learning to ride off road does not come from
watching “extreme” mountain bike videos or TV.
In fact the riders in those films are professional
entertainers and/or daredevils, not teachers.
WARNING
MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDING IS VERY HARD ON
BIKES.
MOUNTAIN BIKES NEED FREQUENT CLEANING,
MAINTENANCE AND INSPECTION.
Clean your bike after every ride and conduct a
pre-ride inspection before every ride. Detailed
inspection as outlined in PART II SECTION D. in
this manual is needed more often than for road
bikes. Failure to keep up with maintenance and
inspection increases the risk of an accident, with
risk of serious injury, paralysis or death.
WARNING
MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDING IS VERY DIFFERENT
FROM RIDING A BIKE ON THE ROAD.
For starters, it is almost certain you will fall off.
Get training! Join a club and find experienced
people to teach you. It is likely that your retailer
can hook you up with local rides. Practice and
learn to stay in control. Carefully, progressively,
learn to expand your limits, but always ride
within them.
61
PART II
Suspension
Stay In Control
Suspension will increase the handling capabilities
and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability
may allow you to ride faster, particularly on rough
or bumpy surfaces. As common sense tells you,
increased speed brings increased risk.
WARNING
FAILURE TO RIDE IN CONTROL COULD RESULT
IN A FALL LEADING TO SERIOUS INJURY,
PARALYSIS, OR DEATH.
WARNING
While the risks inherent to this sport cannot be
eliminated, you can minimize the risks by riding
in control and wearing a helmet. The reality is
that simple, and that challenging.
DO NOT CONFUSE THE BUILT-IN CAPABILITIES
OF A SUSPENSION BIKE WITH YOUR OWN
CAPABILITIES, WHICH MUST BE LEARNED.
Increasing your skill will take time and practice.
Stay in control, and carefully, gradually learn the
feel and handling of your suspension bike.
Downhill And LiftServiced Riding
When you apply the front brakes on a
suspension bike, the front of the bike will fall
or dip as weight shifts forward. This is normal.
(The front of your car dips when you apply the
brakes.) You must learn to anticipate this weight
shift and compensate by shifting your body
weight back.
WARNING
TO RIDE DOWNHILL AT SPEED OR IN
COMPETITION IS TO VOLUNTARILY ASSUME A
VERY LARGE RISK. YOU COULD BE SERIOUSLY
INJURED, PARALYZED, OR KILLED.
When riding downhill such as at a ski area,
on trails or access roads, or on dirt roads such
as fire roads, you can reach speeds seen on
motorcycles, with similar hazards and risks.
Jumping
WARNING
Wear appropriate safety gear, including a
full face helmet, full finger gloves, protective
clothing, and body armor. Have your bicycle and
equipment carefully inspected by a qualified
mechanic and be sure it is in excellent condition.
Consult with expert riders and/or race officials
on conditions and equipment advisable at any
site where you plan to ride downhill. Experienced
riders often pre-walk or carefully and slowly
pre-ride a downhill course before attempting it
at any speed.
JUMPING IS VERY RISKY. YOU COULD HAVE A
FALL LEADING TO SERIOUS INJURY, PARALYSIS
OR DEATH.
Jumping a mountain bike is fun, but it puts
extreme stress on your bike. Perhaps most
vulnerable to jumping-related damage is your
fork. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes
risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as
themselves.
62
Shifting Gears
While Pedaling
CAUTION
Shifting under extreme pedaling pressure puts
a great amount of stress on components. While
most components can withstand an occasional
“power shift,” continual power shifting will most
assuredly damage some part of your drivetrain.
Whenever possible, ease up on your pedals when
shifting.
63
PART II
Freeriding & Downhill
WARNING
FREERIDING AND OTHER FORMS OF “EXTREME RIDING” RE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. YOU CAN BE
SEVERELY INJURED OR KILLED IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT.
Freeriding, jumping, hucking, dirt jumping, mountaincross, downhill, slalom, slopestyle, urban or street
riding or other evolving forms of extreme or hard core mountain biking are inherently dangerous and can
lead to serious accidents. Wear all safety gear and be sure your bike is in excellent condition. Follow all the
instructions and warnings below. These steps will reduce, but not eliminate, the inherent risks. Even with
state of the art protective safety gear you could be seriously injured, paralyzed or killed. If you do not want
to take these risks, do not engage in this type of riding.
Fundamental Risk
Freeriding, jumping, hucking, dirt jumping, mountaincross, downhill, slalom, slopestyle, urban or street
riding. It seems that everywhere you look, from Mountain Dew® commercials to the X-Games® to the Red
Bull®Rampage, riders are grabbing big air and sticking sick drops. And it sure looks fun.
But what the videos and bike magazines and ads don’t always tell you is that extreme riding takes an
amazing amount of skill. Some of the riders you see are well-paid pros who have gradually built up their
skills through endless hours of practice, and who have also had their share of stitches, concussions and
busted bones (and bikes). Others are daredevils who have chosen to accept or ignore the risks. Would you
allow anyone to say that you are so weak in the head, and have such poor judgment that you copy those
you see in the media without thought of the serious risks?
The stakes are high if you screw up. Realize too late that you aren’t up to the challenge, and you run the
risk of major injury or even – say it aloud – death, paralysis. In short, extreme riding carries a high degree of
fundamental risk, and you bear the ultimate responsibility for how you ride and what you attempt to pull
off. Do you want to avoid these significant risks? Then do not ride this way.
Product Limitations
Problems of pilot error aside, hard-core riding also beats the heck out of your equipment. Although we
build and test our bikes to make them tough, there’s no way that we can guarantee they’ll survive your
umpteenth six-foot drop. For starters, there is no industry “jumping” standard. The many circumstances
of takeoff, landing, speed, rider technique, etc. are unique. The judgment, lack of judgment or insanity of
a rider who may ride a Cannondale bicycle cannot be completely predicted, so it’s flat-out impossible to
predict how anyone’s equipment is going to hold up.
(continued on next page...)
64
(continued from previous page...)
Let’s get another thing straight. Buying a Freeride bike does not make you any better. Do not confuse the
built-in capabilities of equipment with your own capabilities, which must be learned.
Keeping your bike and all its components in good working order is critical, and it’s up to you to maintain
and inspect it. Even so, your sweet rig isn’t going to last forever. Nothing does, particularly bikes and parts
that are built to minimize weight and then are subjected to abuse. Cannondale frames carry a warranty, but
that’s to cover issues with workmanship and/or materials. (See the Cannondale Limited Warranty in this
manual). The warranty doesn’t mean that they’re going to last forever. They’re not. The warranty certainly
doesn’t mean that the bicycle can in any way protect you from injury.
Use of Specialized Protective Gear
Cannondale has long urged the use of helmets. As riskier, extreme downhill and freeriding became part
of the sport we communicated frankly about the risks in this freeride warning. We have recently become
aware of neck braces, designed for mountain biking and motocross riding, fitted between the rider and
helmet, that can decrease the risk of paralysis, spinal cord and neck injuries. As the manufacturer clearly
states, these braces cannot prevent all injuries. We urge riders, particularly riders into challenging and risky
riding, to investigate and consider prophylactic neck braces (For example, see http://www.leatt-brace.
com/). A prophylactic neck brace might save your life or keep you out of a wheelchair.
In Conclusion
I­ f you’re going hard-core, be smart about it. Always wear a full face helmet, state-of-the-art neck brace,
body armor, full-finger gloves, and protective clothing. Choose a bike that’s right for you, your riding and
terrain, and check it often for signs of fatigue or other trouble. (Your dealer can help you on both fronts.)
Read PART II, SECTION B. MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDING. And most importantly, know your limitations. Practice.
Stay in control, and carefully, gradually expand your limits – but ride within them.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED, OR KILLED IF YOU IGNORE THIS WARNING.
65
PART II
section d.
inspect for safety
WARNING
FREQUENT INSPECTION OF YOUR BIKE IS
IMPORTANT TO YOUR SAFETY. FOLLOW THE
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST BEFORE EVERY RIDE.
In this section, we will do our best to outline some
material science basics and explain how they relate
to your bicycle, some of the trade offs made in
designing your bicycle, what you can expect from
your bicycle and provide important, basic guidelines
on how you maintain and inspect it.
See the back cover of this manual.
Periodic, more detailed inspection of your bicycle
is important. How often this more detailed
inspection is needed
depends upon you.
Carbon fiber bikes and components are becoming
more common.
You, the rider/owner, have control and
knowledge of how often you use your bike, how
hard you use it and where you use it. Cannondale
does not. We design rugged and light bicycles
and test them extensively. But, because we
cannot track your use, you must be responsible
for inspection and maintenance. Most
customers will have a retailer do all inspection
and maintenance.
In addition to 2. Understanding Composites (Carbon
Fiber) in this section, see also:
APPENDIX A, page 90
APPENDIX C, page 92.
APPENDIX D, page 92.
If you are not interested in the “hands on”
aspects of your bicycle, and do not wish to
perform inspection or maintenance on your own
bike, then you must make your retailer a partner
in maintaining and inspecting your bicycle. Work
with your retailer to determine a maintenance
and inspection schedule appropriate for your
riding. PART I, SECTION 5. A provides some
general guidelines on service intervals.
APPENDIX E, page 100
APPENDIX F, page 102
For your safety, understanding and
communication with your retailer, we urge you to
read this section. The materials used to make
your bike determine how to inspect it properly.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED,
OR KILLED IF YOU IGNORE THIS WARNING.
66
1. Understanding Metals
Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough cycles
of use, at high enough loads, metals will eventually
develop cracks that lead to breakage. It is very
important that you read Metal Fatigue 101 next.
Steel is the traditional material for building
bicycle frames. It has good characteristics, but in
high performance bicycles, steel has been largely
replaced by aluminum and some titanium. The main
factor driving this change is interest by enthusiast
customers in lighter bicycles.
Properties of Metals
Please understand that there is no simple statement
that can be made that characterizes the use of
different metals for bicycles. What is true is how
the metal chosen is applied is much more important
than the material alone. One must look at the
way the bike is designed, tested, manufactured,
supported along with the characteristics of the metal
rather than seeking a simplistic answer.
Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion.
Steel must be protected or rust will attack it.
Aluminum and Titanium quickly develop an oxide
film that protects the metal from further corrosion.
Both are therefore quite resistant to corrosion. The
6000 series aluminum alloys Cannondale has used
for years are commonly used in marine applications.
Aluminum is not perfectly corrosion resistant and
particular care must be used where it contacts other
metals and galvanic corrosion can occur.
Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means
bending, buckling and stretching before breaking.
Generally speaking, of the common bicycle frame
building materials steel is the most ductile, titanium
less ductile, followed by aluminum.
Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit
of material. Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams
per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3,
aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers
with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 grams/cm3.
67
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, fallen cyclist
or other object. First, read the Important warnings at
the beginning of SECTION A: Bicycles Cannot Protect
You. At any speed above a fast walk your body will
continue to move forward, momentum carrying you
over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not
stay on the bike and what happens to the frame and
fork is irrelevant to what happens to your body.
What should you expect from your metal frame? It
depends on many complex factors, which is why we
tell you that crash worthiness cannot be a design
criteria. With that important note, we can tell you
that if the impact is hard enough the fork or frame
may be bent or buckled.
See Figure A on page 68. On a most all steel bikes,
the steel fork may be severely bent and the frame
undamaged. Aluminum is less ductile than steel,
but you can expect the fork and frame to be bent or
buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may be broken
in tension and the down tube buckled. Hit harder
and the top tube may be broken, the down tube
buckled and broken, leaving the head tube and fork
separated from the main triangle.
PART II
When all metal bikes are crashed you will usually see
some evidence of this ductility in bent, buckled or
folded metal.
It is now common for the main frame to be made
of metal and the fork of carbon fiber. See the
composites 101 section below. The relative ductility
of metals and the lack of ductility of carbon fiber
means that in a crash scenario you can expect some
bending or bucking in the metal but none in the
carbon. Below some load the carbon fork may be
intact even though the frame is damaged. Above
some load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
Metal Fatigue 101
Common sense tells us that nothing that is used
lasts forever. The more you use something, and the
harder you use it, and the worse the conditions you
use it in, the shorter its life.
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue
life is nearly infinite. This requires a lot of material
and a lot of weight. Any structure that must be light
and strong will have a finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race
cars, motorcycles: all have parts with finite fatigue
lives. If you wanted a bicycle with an infinite fatigue
life, it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold
today. So we all make a trade-off: the wonderful,
lightweight performance we want requires that we
inspect the structure.
In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a
sign that the part has been worn out, a sign the part
has reached the end of its useful life. When your car
tires wear down to the point that the tread bars are
contacting the road, those tires are not defective.
Those tires are worn out and the tread bar says
“time for replacement.” When a metal part shows a
fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack says “time for
replacement.”
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated
damage to a part caused by repeated loading. To
cause fatigue damage, the load the part receives
must be great enough. A crude, often-used example
is bending a paper clip back and forth (repeated
loading) until it breaks. This simple definition will
help you understand that fatigue has nothing to
do with time or age. A bicycle in a garage does not
fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
FIGURE A
So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On
a microscopic level, a crack forms in a highly stressed
area. As the load is repeatedly applied, the crack
grows. At some point the crack becomes visible to
the naked eye. Eventually it becomes so large that
the part is too weak to carry the same load that,
without the crack, it could carry. At that point there
can be a complete and immediate failure of the part.
68
THIS IS A
THIS IS A
BENT
COMPLETELY BROKEN
METAL FORK.
CARBON FORK.
A few things to think about:
ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND GROW FAST.
Think about the crack as forming a pathway to failure. This means that any crack is potentially
dangerous and will only become more dangerous.
SIMPLE RULE 1: If you find crack, replace the part.
CORROSION SPEEDS DAMAGE.
Cracks grow more quickly when they are in a corrosive environment. Think about the corrosive
solution as further weakening and extending the crack.
SIMPLE RULE 2: Clean your bike, lubricate your bike, protect your bike from salt, remove any salt
as soon as you can.
STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR NEAR A CRACK.
Such staining may be a warning sign that a crack exists.
SIMPLE RULE 3: Inspect and investigate any staining to see if it is associated with a crack.
SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS OR SCORING CREATE STARTING POINTS FOR
CRACKS.
Think about the cut surface as a focal point for stress (in fact engineers call such areas “stress
risers,” areas where the stress is increased). Perhaps you have seen glass cut? Recall how the
glass was scored and then broke on the scored line.
SIMPLE RULE 4: Do not scratch, gouge or score any surface. If you do, pay frequent attention to
this area or replace the part.
SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY MAKE CREAKING NOISE AS YOU RIDE.
Think about such a noise as a serious warning signal. Note that a well-maintained bicycle will be
very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks.
SIMPLE RULE 5: Investigate and find the source of any noise. It may not a be a crack, but
whatever is causing the noise should be fixed before riding.
69
PART II
Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable
Science
Aluminum Frame Inspection
Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but
we can give you some general factors to help you
determine how often you need to inspect (or have
your retailer inspect) your bicycle. The more you fit
the “shorten product life” profile, the more frequent
your need to inspect. The more you fit the “lengthen
product life” profile, the less frequent your need to
inspect.
2. Inspect the whole frame carefully for cracks.
Pay particular attention to the underside of the
downtube where it intersects the headtube
1. Clean the bike and remove the wheels.
3. Next carefully inspect the area where the
crankset and rear wheel come closest to the right
chainstay, particularly on the innermost part
of the chainstay and the outermost part of the
chainstay. Next look at the welds that join all
of the tubes. Be sure to look at the inside of the
rear triangle or swingarm while the wheel is out,
including the dropouts.
Factors that shorten product life:
•
Hard, harsh riding style
•
"Hits," crashes, jumps, other "shots" to
bike
•
High mileage
•
Higher body weight
•
Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider
•
Corrosive environment (wet, salt air,
winter road salt, accumulated sweat)
•
Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand,
soil in riding environment
4. Finally check all mounting points such as disc
brake caliper brackets and water bottle and rack
mounts.
Smooth, fluid riding style
•
No "hits," crashes, jumps, other "shots"
to bike
•
Low mileage
•
Lower body weight
•
Less aggressive rider
•
Non-corrosive environment (dry, saltfree air)
•
Clean riding environment
TOPTUBE
DO
W
NT
Factors that lengthen product life:
•
E
B
DTU
HEA
UB
E
Inspect this area for cracking
Figure 21.
70
Other Suspension Forks
WARNING
If you have a fork made by a third party, please read
and follow the inspection instructions contained in
the manual that covers that fork. If you do not have
the third party’s manual, get one now.
DO NOT RIDE A FRAME OR FORK WITH ANY
CRACK, EVEN A SMALL ONE. RIDING A
CRACKED FRAME OR FORK COULD LEAD TO
YOUR FRAME/FORK BREAKING, WITH RISK
OF ACCIDENT, SERIOUS INJURY, PARALYSIS OR
DEATH.
WARNING
RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY SECURED
WHEEL CAN ALLOW THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE
OR FALL OFF THE BICYCLE, WHICH CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THEREFORE, IT IS
ESSENTIAL THAT YOU:
Fork Inspection
1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Clean the fork.
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you
know how to install and remove your wheels
safely.
3. Carefully inspect the whole fork for cracks. Pay
particular attention to the fork crown area and
the area where the dropouts meet the fork
blades. Look on the inside of the fork while the
wheel is out. Check the area around the brake
pivot bosses or caliper mount.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique
for clamping your wheel in place.
HEADSHOK, LEFTY, or SUPERMAX
In addition to the general information in this manual,
you must follow the specific maintenance and
inspection instructions for the HEADSHOK, LEFTY, or
SUPERMAX.
If you do not have the product soecific owner’s
manual supplement, get one now. You can ask your
Cannondale Dealer, or go to our website for a free
Adobe Acrobat version of any supplement.
Go to http://www.cannondale.com/manuals/.
71
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check
that the wheel is securely clamped. The
clamping action of a correctly secured wheel
must emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
See also PART I, SECTION 4. A Wheels.
PART II
2. Understanding
Composites (Carbon Fiber)
What Are The Limits Of Composites?
Well designed “composite” or carbon fiber bicycles
and components have long fatigue lives, usually
better than their metal equivalents.
All riders must understand a fundamental reality of
composites. Composite materials constructed of
carbon fibers are strong and light, but when crashed
or overloaded, carbon fibers do not bend, they break.
While fatigue life is an advantage of carbon fiber,
Cannondale still urges you to regularly inspect your
carbon fiber frame, fork, or components.
Carbon fiber composites are not ductile. Once a
carbon structure is overloaded, it will not bend; it will
break. At and near the break, there will be rough,
sharp edges and may be delamination of carbon fiber
or carbon fiber fabric layers. There will be no bending,
buckling, or stretching.
What Are Composites?
The term “composites” refers to the fact that a part
or parts are made up of different components or
materials. You’ve heard the term “carbon fiber bike.”
This really means “composite bike.”
Carbon fiber composites are typically a strong, light
fiber in a matrix of plastic, molded to form a shape.
Carbon composites are light relative to metals. Steel
weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter),
titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3.
Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite
at 1.45 grams/cm3.
If You Hit Something Or Have A Crash,
What Can You Expect From Your Carbon
Fiber Bike?
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, fallen cyclist
or other object. First, read the Important warnings at
the beginning of PART II Section A. Bicycles Cannot
Protect You in this manual.
The composites with the best strength-to-weight
ratios are made of carbon fiber in a matrix of epoxy
plastic. The epoxy matrix bonds the carbon fibers
together, transfers load to other fibers, and provides
a smooth outer surface. The carbon fibers are the
“skeleton” that carries the load.
At any speed above a fast walk, your body will
continue to move forward, the momentum carrying
you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will
not stay on the bike and what happens to the frame
and fork is irrelevant to what happens to your body.
Why Are Composites Used?
What should you expect from your carbon frame? It
depends on many complex factors, which is why we
tell you that crash worthiness cannot be a design
criteria. With that important note, we can tell you
that if the impact is hard enough, the fork or frame
may be completely broken. See Figure A on page 68.
Note the significant difference in behavior between
carbon and metal. 1. Understanding Metals in this
section. Even if the carbon frame was twice as
strong as a metal frame, once the carbon frame is
overloaded it will not bend, it will break completely.
Unlike metals, which have uniform properties in all
directions (engineers call this isotropic), carbon fibers
can be placed in specific orientations to optimize the
structure for particular loads. The choice of where
to place the carbon fibers gives engineers a powerful
tool to create strong, light bicycles. Engineers may
also orient fibers to suit other goals such as comfort
and vibration damping.
Carbon fiber composites are very corrosion resistant,
much more so than most metals. Think about carbon
fiber or fiberglass boats.
Our carbon frames/fork/components are designed
for normal riding loads with a factor of safety. These
frames/fork/components will be broken by some
crash or impact loads.
Carbon fiber materials have a very high strength-towieght ratio.
See “Composite Frame, Fork, And Component
Inspection” on next page.
72
Composite Frame, Fork, and Component
Inspection
•
Cracks:
Inspect for cracks, broken, or splintered areas. Any
crack is serious. Do not ride any bicycle or component
that has a crack of any size.
Delamination:
Delamination is serious damage. Composites are
made from layers of fabric. Delamination means that
the layers of fabric are no longer bonded together.
Do not ride any bicycle or component that has any
delamination. These are some delamination clues:
•
•
A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks
different from the ordinary undamaged areas.
Undamaged areas will look glassy, shiny, or
“deep,” as if one was looking into a clear liquid.
Delaminated areas will look opaque and cloudy.
A difference in sound when tapping the surface.
If you gently tap the surface of an undamaged
composite you will hear a consistent sound,
usually a hard, sharp sound. If you then tap
a delaminated area, you will hear a different
sound, usually duller, less sharp.
Unusual Noises:
Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking
noises while riding. Think about such a noise as a
serious warning signal. A well maintained bicycle
will be very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks.
Investigate and find the source of any noise. It may
not be a crack or delamination, but whatever is
causing the noise must be fixed before riding.
WARNING
DO NOT RIDE A FRAME OR FORK WITH ANY
DELAMINATION OR CRACK. IF YOU RIDE A
DELAMINATED OR CRACKED FRAME/FORK/
COMPONENT IT MAY COMPLETELY BREAK
APART WITH RISK OF ACCIDENT, SERIOUS
INJURY, PARALYSIS OR DEATH.
Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination
occurs, the surface shape may change. The
surface may have a bump, a bulge, soft spot, or
not be smooth and fair.
Damage caused by a handlebar rotating
and striking the top tube is common.
The resulting impact cracks and breaks
the top tube.
This is not a warranty.
The frame is not safe to ride.
Any impact or crash damage can produce
serious damage to the frame. This
chainstay was cracked in a crash.
This is not a warranty.
The frame is not safe to ride.
73
PART II
3. understanding
components
A great slogan to discuss with your retailer as you
consider changing components: “Strong, Light, Cheap
– Pick two.”
It is often necessary to remove and disassemble
components in order to properly and carefully inspect
them. Most customers will use this component list as
a checklist. The intention here is to tell you what parts,
and what area of each part, most need inspection. Insist
that your mechanic do such inspections. Our intention is
definitely not to teach bicycle mechanics.
■ Original Equipment Components
Cannondale tests the fatigue life of many of the
components that are original equipment on your bike.
This means that the designs many original equipment
components have met our test criteria and have
reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean that the
original equipment components will last forever. They
will not.
WARNING
■ Stem
FAILURE TO DISASSEMBLE OR REASSEMBLE
BICYCLE COMPONENTS PROPERLY COULD RESULT
IN AN ACCIDENT, WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY,
PARALYSIS OR DEATH.
Clean and inspect carefully for cracks. Pay particular
attention to the underside of the stem. If the stem is of
welded construction, examine the edges of each weld.
See also the closely related handlebar section below.
There are many special tools and techniques
required. Unless you are a very experienced and
skilled bicycle mechanic, we urge you to have this
work done by a professional bicycle retailer.
■ Handlebars
Remove from stem. With road bars, you will need to
remove the handlebar tape. Remove any handlebar
mounted components. Clean and inspect carefully for
cracks. Pay particular attention to the area where the
handlebar emerges from the stem. This is the area where
virtually all handlebars will eventually break. Periodic
replacement of all handlebars is strongly recommended.
How often they need to be replaced depends upon the
many factors outlined above.
IF YOU SEE ANY CRACK, OR ANYTHING YOU
ARE UNSURE OF, PLEASE TAKE YOUR BICYCLE
TO A RETAILER. IF YOU RIDE A DELAMINATED
OR CRACKED FRAME/FORK/COMPONENT IT
MAY COMPLETELY BREAK APART WITH RISK
OF ACCIDENT, SERIOUS INJURY, PARALYSIS OR
DEATH.
IF YOU HAVE CARBON FIBER COMPONENTS,
YOU MUST READ PART II, SECTION D. 2.
UNDERSTANDING COMPOSITES.
Be sure that you do not scratch or score the surface
of the handlebars with either the stem or the brake
or shifter levers. As noted above, any such damage
will reduce the life of the handlebar and could lead to
breakage.
DO NOT ride any component with a crack, even a
small one. Replace the component before riding.
Break or saw in half any component you replace so
that no one uses it again.
■ Aftermarket “Super Light”
Components
Think carefully about your rider profile as outlined above.
The more you fit the “shorten product life” profile,
the more you must question the use of super light
components. The more you fit the “lengthen product
life” profile, the more likely it is that lighter components
may be suitable for you.
Discuss your needs and your profile very honestly
with your retailer. Take these choices seriously and
understand that you are responsible for the changes.
74
If you find that there is a sharp edge or burr on
the inside of the stem, right where the handlebars
emerge, it must be smoothed out with fine
sandpaper (220 grit or finer) before the new
handlebars are installed. Such a sharp edge or burr
could cause a scratching or scoring of the handlebar.
As noted above, any such damage will reduce the life
of the handlebar and could lead to breakage.
■ Seat Post
■ Pedals
Remove from seat tube and remove from saddle.
Disassemble the head/saddle clamp assembly. Clean
and inspect all parts carefully for cracks.
Remove both from the crankset. Clean and inspect
carefully for cracks. Pay particular attention to the pedal
axle. See clipless pedal manufacturer’s instructions for
information on cleat wear and replacement.
Pay particular attention to the bolt (or bolts) that clamp
the saddle in place. If the bolt looks stretched, bent or
in any way damaged, replace it. Note that these bolts
have been known to be broken due to fatigue when
not properly tightened. They must be tightened with a
torque wrench.
■ Crankset
Remove both sides from the bottom bracket. Clean and
inspect all parts carefully for cracks. Examine both inside
and outside surfaces. Pay particular attention to edges,
shapes and changes of shape that are a part of your
particular crankset design. Also check the area around
the pedal mounting holes.
The threads of the seat post bolts be greased before
reassembly.
Be sure the clamp assembly is clamped only to the
straight parallel part of the saddle rails.
■ Wheels
Clean the wheels. Inspect the hub flange, where the
heads of the spokes are hooked (or otherwise attached)
to the hub flange, for cracks. Inspect the rim where the
spokes meet the rim. It is not uncommon to see cracks
form where the spokes meet the rim.
■ Seat Post Lubrication
Clean and apply the following to a seat post before
inserting into the frame.
FRAME MATERIAL
SEAT POST
LUBRICATION
SEAT TUBE
SEAT POST
ALLOY
ALLOY
GREASE
ALLOY
CARBON
CARBON GEL
CARBON
ALLOY
CARBON GEL
CARBON
CARBON
CARBON GEL
■ Brake Track of Wheel Rim
The brake track is the surface of the rim where the
brake pads make contact. While not related to fatigue,
this surface can be worn out. We urge you to inspect
the brake tracks on your rims. They can wear out quite
quickly on a mountain bike used in abrasive conditions.
Many rims have brake track wear indicators; please ask
your retailer to show you this feature.
GREASE - A high-quality bicycle bearing grease
Some brake pads are very aggressive and speed up wear.
If you see a noticeable amount of wear relative to the
nearby surface untouched by the brake pads, speak to
your retailer about possible replacement. Severely worn
brake tracks can lead to a broken wheel.
CARBON GEL - Is a gel like lubricant formulated for use
with carbon fiber components (Cannondale p/n KF115/).
■ Saddle
While the saddle is off the seat post, clean and
inspect the rails carefully for cracks. Check the
saddle rails to the saddle body; make sure that the
rails are firmly attached.
WARNING
DO NOT RIDE ON A RIM THAT HAS BEEN WORN
OUT!
If the wear indicator shows that the rim is worn out,
there is a danger that the rim could be broken due
to tire pressure and/or riding loads.
IF THE RIM BREAKS WHILE YOU ARE RIDING
YOU COULD HAVE AN ACCIDENT, WITH RISK OF
SERIOUS INJURY, PARALYSIS OR DEATH.
75
PART II
Bicycle Lifespan
Useful Life of Lightweight Frames
Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your
Bike
When the useful life of your bike or its components is
over, continued use is hazardous.
Every Cannondale bicycle frame and the components
attached to the frame have a finite, limited useful
life. The length of that life will vary with the
construction and materials used in the frame and
components, the maintenance and care the frame
and components receive over their life and the type
and amount of use the frame and components are
subjected. Use in competitive events, trick riding,
ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on
severe terrain, riding in severe climates, riding with
heavy loads, commercial activities and other types
of non-standard use can dramatically shorten the
life of the frame and components. Any one or a
combination of these conditions may result in an
unpredictable breakage.
ALL FRAMES AND COMPONENTS SHOULD BE
PERIODICALLY CHECKED BY AN AUTHORIZED
CANNONDALE RETAILER for indicators of stress
and/or potential breakage , including cracks,
deformation, delamination, creaking sounds,
corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other
indicators of potential problems, inappropriate use
or abuse. These are important safety checks and very
important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury
to the rider and shortened product life. (See PART I,
Section 5 Service and PART II, Section D. Inspect For
Safety)
76
Lightweight frames and components usually have
shorter lives. For example, all aspects of use being
identical, a lightweight Super Six, System Six, CAAD7
or CAAD8 frame will have a shorter life than a heavier
CAAD3 frame.
In selecting lightweight frames and components
you are making a trade-off, favoring the higher
performance that comes with light weight over
longevity. So, If you choose lightweight, high
performance equipment, be sure to inspect it
frequently.
Section E. Maintenance
Cleaning
Use only water and dishwashing liquid.
On suspension forks and shocks, cover adjustment
knobs and air filter (if equipped) with a clean plastic
bag secured temporarily with a rubber band or
masking tape.
WARNING
INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE ARE
IMPORTANT TO YOUR SAFETY AND THE
LONGEVITY OF YOUR BICYCLE.
Before wiping away dirt, use an ordinary water hose
to gently spray off heavy soils and dirt.
Any part of a poorly maintained bike can break
or malfunction leading to an accident where
you can be killed, severely injured or paralyzed.
CAUTION
DO NOT power wash or spray water under
high pressure to clean. Power washing will
force contaminants into parts where they will
promote corrosion, immediately damage, or
result in accelerated wear.
Please ask your Cannondale Dealer to help you
develop a complete maintenance program, a
program which includes a list of the parts on
your bike for YOU to check regularly. Frequent
checks are necessary to identify the problems
that can lead
to an accident.
DO NOT use compressed air to dry.
DO NOT use abrasive or harsh chemical
cleaner/solvents which can damage the
finish or attack and destroy both the outside
and internal parts.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED
OR KILLED IN AN ACCIDENT IF YOU IGNORE
THIS WARNING.
When rinsing, avoid directing the spray directly
at shock/fork adjusters or bearings.
30 Day Service
Many retailers offer a special on the first service of
your new bike. Whether it is free or not, please be
sure to have this first service done. The first service
is very important. Many parts of the bike will break
in, bed in, stretch or seat themselves through use.
This is true even with a perfectly assembled new
bike. The first service is the chance to make all the
small adjustments that will enhance the safety,
performance and durability of your new bike.
Preventing Corrosion
After cleaning and drying it is a good idea to lightly
coat the water bottle bosses with a water displacing
lubricant such as Tri-Flow or WD40 to minimize
corrosion from sweat and salt. This is particularly
important on bicycles used in coastal salt air
environments and those drenched in sweat on an
indoor trainer.
This is as important as the first oil change on a
new car. This first service also gives you the perfect
opportunity to ask questions arising from reading
the manuals and actually riding your new bike, take
steps to fine tune your fit and comfort on the bike,
and add accessories to suit your needs.
To thoroughly clean the frame it is desirable to
remove components. This is best done in conjunction
with a periodic overhaul by an authorized Cannondale
retailer.
77
PART II
Lubrication
Tightening Torques
After cleaning your bike you should lubricate it. The
chain should be lubricated. Consult with your retailer
to choose among the many types of chain lubes best
suited to your climate and riding conditions. The
pivot points on your derailluers should be lubricated.
Apply a small drop of oil to each pivot point and wipe
off the excess.
Correct tightening torque for the fasteners (bolts,
screws, nuts) on your bicycle is very important to your
safety. Correct tightening torque for the fasteners is
also important for the durability and performance
of your bicycle. We urge you to have your Dealer
correctly torque all fasteners using a torque wrench.
If you decide to torque fasteners yourself always use
a torque wrench.
Periodically, depending upon how, how often, and
where you ride and the design of the components
on your bike, other lubrication must be part of your
maintenance. Some of you will know how to perform
the procedures on this check list, while others will
need to take the bike to a dealer. If you are not an
experienced and skilled bicycle mechanic, take your
bike to a retailer.
Find Tightening Torque Information
for Your Bike
The wide range of bicycle models and
components used means that a listing of
tightening torque would be out of date by the
time it was published. Many fasteners should
be installed with a thread locking adhesive such
as Loctite ®.
Other Lubrication Checklist
• Derailleur cables
To determine correct tightening torque and
any adhesive application for a fastener we ask
you to check:
• Brake cables
• Brake pivots
■ Markings on the component. Many
components are marked. On-product
marking is becoming common.
• Headset bearings
• Bottom bracket bearings
• Hub bearings
■ Torque specs in the component
manufacturers instructions shipped with
your bicycle.
• Freehub
• Seat post to seat tube, See page 74.
■ Torque specs listed on the websites of
component manufacturers.
• Stem to steering tube
• Headshok or lefty or supermax see
the owner’s manual supplement.
■ With your Dealer. Dealers have access to
current data and have experience with
correct torque for most fasteners.
78
Bicycle Repair / Work Stands
The clamping jaws of a bike stand can generate a
crushing force strong enough to seriously damage
your frame. See next figure.
CAUTION
Never place your bike in a bike stand by clamping
the frame.
Incorrect
Place your bike in a stand by extending the seat
post and positioning the stand clamp on the
extended seat post. Don’t extend beyond the
MINIMUM INSERT line marked on the seat post.
Since your carbon seat post can also be damaged
by clamping force, adjust the stand clamp for
the minimum clamping force needed to secure
the bike.
Correct
Also, before clamping, clean the post and
protect the seat post finish with a rag.
Riding Through Water
CAUTION
Figure 22.
“Sealed” components (such as HeadShok
and Lefty and SUPERMAX, headsets, bottom
brackets and hubs) are effective at keeping mud
and grit out of your bearings.
Protect Carbon Bikes From Extreme
Temperatures
However, any bike that is submerged or
exposed to large amounts of water will require a
complete bearing overhaul to prevent extensive—
and expensive—damage.
• Protect your carbon bike from extreme
temperatures when storing or transporting it.
• Allow your bike to cool off or warm-up before
you ride
• Do not store your bike in places where the
temperature will exceed 66.5C° (150°F).
79
For example, do not leave your bike lying flat in
a black pickup truck bed in the desert sun, or,
under the glass of a hatchback auto.
PART II
APPLYING FRAME PROTECTION
Some areas of your bicycle require protection from
abrasion. If protection is not in place, damage can
result. Please consult with your Cannondale Dealer
about the replacement location and position of these
various frame protections.
Also, adhesive frame guards are not a fix for
incorrectly installed or routed cables or lines. If you
find that applied guards are wearing out very quickly,
consult with your Cannondale Dealer about the
routing on your bike.
NOTE: Damage to your bike resulting cable rub is
not covered under your warranty. Make sure the
protections indicated below are in place whenever you
ride your bike. Ask your Cannondale Dealer for help.
Housing and Cable Guides
Normal line and cable movement against the frame
can wear away painted finishes and decals.
Figure 24.
THIS PHOTO SHOWS A TYPICAL USE OF GUARD
MATERIAL AT A CONTACT POINT.
■ Headtube area
■ Seattube
■ Pivots areas
■ Anywhere a control cable or housing
may contact the frame.
Figure 23.
To apply the guard material:
CAUTION
1. Clean the frame with a mild detergent and wipe
dry with a clean towel. Do not use solvents or
harsh chemicals to clean the frame. OPTIONAL:
Trim the adhesive guard material to the shape
required.
Over time, cable rubbing can wear into the
frame itself causing very serious frame damage.
Check over your bike after your first few rides.
Apply the guard material where rubbing is
found. When applied correctly and renewed
when worn, the guard material is good
protection for your bike.
2. Remove the backing and position the guard
under the cable/ line.
3. Rub the guard firmly against the frame with
your fingers to fix it in place.
4. Periodically, recheck the guards and other areas
of the frame as you continue to ride. Replace the
guards if they wear out.
80
Right Chainstay Plate
Chainstay Protector
On mountain or road bikes, the chainstay plate (1)
is located on the right chainstay (2) just behind
the chainrings (3). This plate protects the carbon
(composite) chainstay from damage in the event the
chain is dropped from the chainring.
On mountain or road bikes, the chainstay protector
is a clear, adhesive film applied to the upper surface
of the right chainstay. This protector can prevent
damage to the chainstay caused by the chain.
Figure 27.
Figure 25.
On mountain bikes, a wrap-around or snap on
type protector (1) can be installed as additional
protection.
Downtube Protector
On mountain bikes, placement on the down tube
protector (1) on the downtube (2) reduces the
potential for damage caused by debris thrown by
the wheel. For some bikes, the protector is a fitted
adhesive backed material. Some bike models may
have light weight plastic formed guards.
Figure 28.
Figure 26.
81
PART II
Water Bottles
Side impacts to a water bottle or cage can result
in damage threaded inserts due to the leverage
on a very small area. In a crash, certainly the last
thing you should be worried about is saving the
threaded inserts in your frame. However, when you
are storing or transporting your bike, take steps to
prevent situations where a water bottle may be hit or
bumped by a strong force that would cause damage.
Remove bottle and cage when you are packing your
bike for travel.
Periodically check the attachment of the bottle cage;
tighten the cage bolts if necessary. Don’t ride with
a loose bottle cage. Riding with loose cage bolts
can produce a rocking motion or vibration of the
attached cage. A loose cage will damage the insert
and possibly lead to the inserts to pull out. It may
be possible to repair a loose insert, or install another
insert only if the frame is undamaged. Replacement
requires the use of a special tool. If you notice
damage to the threaded insert, please ask your
Cannondale Dealer for help.
CAUTION
WATER BOTTLES - An impact, crash, or loose
bottle cage can result in damage to your frame.
This kind of damage is not covered by the
Cannondale Limited Warranty.
82
section F.
CANNONDALE limited
warranty
alteration, modification, an accident or other abnormal,
excessive, or improper use.
This limited warranty applies only to bicycles purchased in
fully assembled and adjusted condition from Authorized
Cannondale Retailers or other outlets specifically authorized
by Cannondale to distribute Cannondale bicycles.
Damage resulting from normal wear and tear, including
the results of fatigue, is not covered. Fatigue damage is a
symptom of the frame being worn out through normal use.
It is one kind of normal wear and tear, and it is the owner’s
responsibility to inspect his/her bicycle. See Section 5. and D.
The specific warranty covering your Cannondale bicycle is
governed by the law of the state or country in which it was
purchased, and applies only to bicycles purchased from
Authorized Cannondale Retailers.
Damage resulting from corrosion is not covered.
FRAMES: (frame, fork structure, swing arm): Cannondale
frames (except frames for Freeride, and Dirt Jumping bikes,
see below) are warranted by Cycling Sports Group,
Inc., 761 Main Avenue, Building G 2nd Floor, Norwalk CT,
06851 against manufacturing defects in materials and/or
workmanship for the lifetime of the original owner.
Damage resulting from improper assembly or maintenance,
or from installation of parts and accessories not compatible
with the Cannondale bicycle, is not covered.
All labor charges for warranty service, including the transfer
of components and/or any installation of new components,
are the responsibility of the bicycle’s owner.
Cannondale frames for Freeride & Dirt Jumping bikes
(such as Gemini, Gemini DH, Judge, Perp and Chase) are
warranted against manufacturing defects in materials and/
or workmanship for a period of three (3) years from the
date of original retail purchase. The Freeride / Dirt Jumping
warranty does not cover any Freeride / Dirt Jumping bike
purchased and used for rental purchase. The Freeride / Dirt
Jumping warranty differs from the warranty as stated in
the Cannondale Owner’s Manual only in its term. All other
conditions apply.
Due to product evolution and obsolescence, some
components may not be available for older models. In
these cases, sourcing and paying for components is the
responsibility of the bicycle owner.
COMPONENTS: All other components, including HeadShok
and Lefty internal parts, suspension parts, frame fixtures
and finishes (paint and decals) are warranted against
manufacturing defects in materials and/or workmanship for
a period of one year from the date of original retail purchase.
Components used on rental fleet bikes are not covered by
this one year warranty.
Suspension forks (other than those made by Cannondale)
are not covered by this limited warranty, but are separately
covered by the stated warranty of their manufacturer.
TERMS OF LIMITED WARRANTY:
This limited warranty is not meant to suggest or imply that
the bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever. It does mean
that the bicycle is covered subject to the terms of the limited
warranty.
This limited warranty applies only to the original owner of
a Cannondale bicycle and is not transferable to subsequent
owners.
During the duration of this limited warranty, CYCLING
SPORTS GROUP, INC., will either repair any defective frame
or component, or, at our option, replace any defective frame
or component with the same or most nearly comparable
model or component then available. THIS IS THE EXCLUSIVE
REMEDY UNDER THIS WARRANTY. ANY AND ALL OTHER
REMEDIES AND DAMAGES THAT MAY OTHERWISE BE
APPLICABLE ARE EXCLUDED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED
TO, INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR
PUNITIVE DAMAGES.
THIS IS THE ONLY WARRANTY MADE BY CYCLING SPORTS
GROUP, INC., ON ITS FRAMES AND COMPONENTS, AND
THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES WHICH EXTEND BEYOND
THE DESCRIPTION HEREIN. ANY WARRANTIES THAT
MAY OTHERWISE BE IMPLIED BY LAW INCLUDING,
BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF
MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE, ARE EXCLUDED.
Please refer to the documents included with your bicycle for
possible further restrictions.
This Limited Warranty gives the consumer specific legal
rights. The consumer may also have other legal rights which
vary from state to state or country to country. Some states
and countries do not allow the exclusion or limitation of
incidental or consequential damages or warranties, so the
above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. If it
is determined by a court of competent jurisdiction that a
certain provision of this limited warranty does not apply,
such determination shall not affect any other provision of
this limited warranty and all other provisions shall remain
in effect.
For any warranty claim to be considered, the bicycle must be
brought in to an Authorized Cannondale Bicycle Retailer on
the same continent on which the bicycle was purchased. The
bicycle must be in assembled condition and accompanied by
the original, dated sales receipt for the bicycle. (Be sure to
keep your receipt in a safe place.)
This limited warranty is void if the bicycle is subjected to
abuse, neglect, improper repair, improper maintenance,
(01/14)
83
PART II
Product Registration
Serial Number
We encourage you to register your bike with us.
The serial number for your bike is located :
Registration helps us ensure your continued
satisfaction as well as enabling us to contact you
with important product recall safety information at
a later time.
• On the bike’s bottom bracket. It is a 7-character
barcoded label like the one shown below.
• The serial number should also appear on your
original sales receipt.
Please obtain the bike serial number and visit our
website to complete the online questionaire :
Please note that you must have your original proof of
purchase (sales receipt) when presenting a warranty
claim. Be sure to keep it in a safe place.
http://www.cannondale.com/register
The serial number also appears on a “Warranty
Card.” The card, attached during assembly, also
contains other information used when your bike was
manufactured. We encourage you to keep this card
as a reference .
WARNING
Please register your bike with us. If you don’t,
we may not be able to contact you directly with
important safety recall information.
The other number stamped into the bottom bracket
in the same area are NOT unique to your bicycle
although, they could be helpful to authorities in theft
recovery. These numbers are used in our factory.
We respect your privacy, see http://www.
cannondale.com/privacy for details.
2FS2S
945255P006546
N230200
WRITE YOUR BIKE’S SERIAL NUMBER HERE:
7-CHARACTER
BARCODE
Under bottom bracket
84
Authorized Distributors
SLOVENIA: Sport trade 2000 d.o.o., Celovska 280, Ljubljana, 1000, tel:
+386-15104940, fax: +385-151 82163,
email: [email protected], http://www.funsports.si
The following lists are subject to change
without notice:
SLOVAKIA: Aspire Sports s.r.o., Karasek 11, Brno, 62100,
tel: +420 532 199 540, fax: +420 532 199 554,
email: [email protected], http://www.aspire.cz
BELARUS: Sinij Medved, Osipenko 2, 92, 220053, Minsk, tel: +375 29 621
86 07, email: [email protected]
TURKEY: Delta Bisiklet HQ, BosnaHersek Cd. 20/D, 06510, Emek
Ankara, Turkey, tel: +90312 2236027, fax: +90312 2223492, email: [email protected]
deltabisiklet.com, http://www.deltabisiklet.com
BULGARIA: KCP Group, 50 Sfakion STR 12131, Greece, tel: +30 210
5317960, fax: +30 210 5317961, email: [email protected], http://www.kcp.gr
UKRAINE: Veloplaneta, Enakievskaya 2E, 61158 Kharkov,Ukraine, tel:
+380504023705, fax: +38057 7544 981, email: [email protected],
www.veloplaneta.com.ua
CROATIA: Keindl Sport, Reljkoviceva 2, 10000 Zagreb, tel: +385 1 3711
711, fax: +385 13708324, email: [email protected], http://www.
keindl-sport.com
EUROPEAN DISTRIBUTORS: [email protected], tel: 0041 61
4879387, fax: 0041 61 4879385 0031-541-573587, fax: 0031-541-514240
CZECH REPUBLIC: Aspire Sports s.r.o., Karasek 11, Brno, 62100, tel: +420
532 199 540, fax: +420 532 199 554, email: [email protected],
http://www.aspire.cz
CYPRUS: KCP Group, 50 Sfakion STR 12131, Greece, tel: +30 210 5317960,
fax: +30 210 5317961, email: [email protected], http://www.kcp.gr,
ESTONIA: Extreme Sport AS, Merivälja tee 1, 11911 Tallinn, tel: +372 650
8686, fax: +372 650 8687, email: [email protected],
http://www.extreme.ee
GREECE: KCP Group, 50 Sfakion STR 12131, Greece, tel: +30 210 5317960,
fax: +30 210 5317961, email: [email protected], http://www.kcp.gr
HUNGARY: Mali Bicycle Technology, Szinesfem u. 22-24, 1211 Budapest,
tel: +36-1420-5032, fax: +36-142-0532, email: [email protected]
EUROPEAN TOURISM/RESORTS: [email protected], tel: 0041
61 4879387, fax: 0041 61 4879385, 0031-541-573587,
fax: 0031-541-514240
EUROPEAN APPAREL/ACCESSORIES DEALERS:
[email protected], tel: 0041 61 4879387,
fax: 0041 61 4879385
INTERNATIONAL SALES: 172 Friendship Village RD, Bedford, PA 15522
USA, tel: 814-623-4391, fax: 814-623-2107, email: [email protected]
cannondale.com
ARGENTINA: Lauro Competicion, Avda. San Pedrito 577, Buenos
Aires, Argentina 01406, tel: 4613-8859, fax: 54-11-4612-8805, email:
[email protected], http://www.cannondaleargentina.com
ICELAND: GA Petursson Ltd., Faxafen 7, 108 Reykjavik, Box 8176, tel:
+354 5200 200, fax: +354 5200 301, email:[email protected],
http://www.gap.is
ARGENTINA: 10X SRL, Mexico 3662 PB 35, Buenos Aires Argentina 1223,
tel: 54-11-49316003
KAZAKHSTAN: Limpopo Outdoor, 534 Seifallin Str., Alamaty, 050022. tel:
73272617061, fax: 73272617265, email: [email protected],
http://www.limpopo.kz
BERMUDA: The New Winners Edge, 34 Church Street, Hamilton HM11,
Bermuda, tel: 441-295-6012, fax: 411-292-1904
BOLIVIA: Visal Import & Export, Avenida Banzer #656,
Santa Cruz, Bolivia, tel: (591-3) 341 4141, fax: (591-3) 341 4600
LATVIA: IKS SPORTS, Dzutas str 8, Riga, Lv1006, www.xsports.lv, [email protected]
xsports.lv, tel. 0037167545537, fax 0037167545523
BORNEO: Cannasia, 101 Frankel Ave., Singapore
tel/fax: 65-6441-4772, http://www www.cannasia.com
LITHUANIA: EGMINDA UAB, Ukmerges g. 283A, LT06313 Vilnius, Tel (8~5)
2323080, [email protected]
BRAZIL: Cannondale Brasil, Av. Prof. Sylia Matos, 370, CEP 04182-010 Sao
Paulo Brazil, tel: 2264-2167/2264-2143, http://www.cannondale.com.br
MALTA: Pedal Power, 56 Triq Is-Stazzjon, B’Kara BKR 12, Malta, tel: +356
212 27265, fax: +356 212 227265, email: [email protected],
http://www.pedpowermalta.com
BRUNEI: Cannasia, 101 Frankel Ave., Singapore, 458224,
tel: 65-6441-4772, email: [email protected], http://www.
cannasia.com
POLAND: PGR Sp. Z.O.O., ul Rydygiera 8/bud.20B, lok 227, Warszawa
01-793, tel: +48 22 6699690, email: [email protected], http://www.
grupapgr.pl
CAMBODIA: Flying Bike Shop, No. 8 Street 114, Phnon Pehn Cambodia
12000, tel: 855-128-06035, email: [email protected]
ROMANIA: Maros Bike, Aurel Vlaicu no. 120, Cluj Napoca, tel: +40 2644
10779, email: [email protected], http://www.marosbike.ro
(continued on next page...)
RUSSIA: SLOPESTYLE, 15, Proektnaya Street, Gagarin´s Microdistrict,
Balashikha, Moscow Region, 143900, tel: 007‐495‐9684908, email:
[email protected], website: http://slopestyle.ru
SERBIA: Planet Bike Co. doo, Milosa Obilica 9-11, 37000 Krusevac, tel:
+381 37 420000, fax: +381 37 420011,
email: [email protected],http://www.planetbike.rs
85
PART II
CHILE: Inversiones Intercycles Ltda., Av. Neuva Las Condes, 12.270 #101,
Santiago, Chile, South America, tel: 562-215-3470, fax: 562-217-3167,
email: [email protected]
NEW ZEALAND: WH Worrall, 43 Felix Street, Penrose, Auckland, New
Zealand; tel: (649) 636 0641; email: [email protected]
PANAMA: Latin Bikes S.A., Calle 50 Final y Vía Cincuentenario, Edificio
Adelina, Local #1, San Francisco, Panama, tel: (507) 60902002
COSTA RICA: Xcesso S.A., San José, Costa Rica, tel: 506-2290-5696, fax:
506-2290-3412, email: [email protected]
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC: Aro & Pedal, 27 de Febrero #112, Santo Domingo,
Dominican Republic, tel: (809) 686-5861, fax: (809) 687-6548, email:
[email protected]
ECUADOR: BikeLife, Shirys N41-206 e Isla Floreana, Quito Ecuador tel:
593-99-217050, fax: 593+22-440312
PERU: Inversiones Intercycles Ltda., Av. Nueva Las Condes, 12.270 #101
Santiago, Chile, tel: 562-215-3470, fax: 562-217-3167, email: [email protected]
cannondale.cl
PUERTO RICO: Bikeworks, 1500 Bori St Suite 4, San Juan Puerto Rico
00927, tel: 787-763-4369
EL SALVADOR: Grupo Extremo, Blvd Santa Elena Atrium Plata 5y6 Antiquo
Cuscattan San Salvador, El Salvador, tel: 502-228-99636
PHILIPPINES: Newton Multi-Sales, 689-D Del monte Ave., SFDM Quezon
City, Metro Manila, Philippines, 1100, tel: (0632)3725127-28 & 3717231,
5595301, 5595311, fax: (0632) 3735439, email: [email protected]
GUAM: Hornet Bicycles, PO Box 8294, Tamuning, Guam 96931, tel: 671646-9191, fax: 671-646-1900, email: [email protected]
PUERTO RICO: TL Bicycle Distributor Inc, Jose A. Lugo, Edif. Mar de Isla
Verde Apt 10-Q, San Juan Puerto Rico, 00979, tel: 787 613 1040,
GUATEMALA: Bike Center, S. A., 20 Calle 24-67 Zona 10, Paris Plaza, Local
2-3, Guatemala City Guatemala, tel: 502-333-4388, fax: 502-333-7394,
email:[email protected]
SINGAPORE: Cannasia Pte. Ltd., 101 Frankel Avenue, Singapore 458224,
tel: 65-6441-4772, [email protected], http://www.cannasia.com
SOUTH AFRICA: Omnico (PTY) Ltd, Unit 1 B Kimbult Industrial Park,
8 Zeiss Road, Honeydew, South Africa, 2170, Lionel Dippenaar, tel:
+27(0)117943808, Mobile : +27(0)832587777, [email protected],
http://www.omnico.co.za
HONDURAS: Hondubikes, Col.Humuya Av.Sabana Tegucigalpa, Honduras,
tel/fax: 504-239-2192
HONG KONG: Flying Ball Bicycle, Unit G58 Lai Sun Commercial Center,
680 Cheung Sha Wan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong, tel: 852-238-13661, fax:
852-239-74406, http://www.flyingball.com
TAIWAN: Three Peaks Bicycle Company, No. 222 Jin-Xian 8th Rd, Taichung
Taiwan, tel: 886-424-368842, http://www.threepeaks.com.tw
THAILAND: Cycoholic 45/39 Soi Atthakrawee 1, Sukhumvit 26 Road
(Soi Aree) Bangkok, Thailand 10110 tel:+66815678886 email: [email protected]
cannasia.com, http://www.thaicannasia.com
INDIA: Tube Investments of India, PO Box 5, MTH Rd Ambattur, Chennai
60053, India, tel: 914 428 553492, fax: 914 -428-553757
INDONESIA: Cannasia Pte. Ltd., 101 Frankel Ave., Singapore, 458224, tel:
65-6441-4772, email: [email protected], http://www.
cannasia.com
TRINIDAD: Motorcycles Etc., 89 Eastern Main Road, Barataria, Trinidad
and Tobago, tel: 868-675-2453, fax: 868-675-3816,
email: [email protected]
ISRAEL: O.R Cycling Ltd., 6296,Netanya 42160, tel: +972-(0)-891-7395,
email: [email protected], http://www.cannondale.co.il
TRINIDAD: Sports & Games 47 Tissue Drive Trincity, Trinidad, tel: 868640-2507, fax: 868-640-0505
JAMAICA: Hi Tech Industries LTD., 8 Dumfries Road Kingston 10 Jamaica
W. Indies, tel: 876 855 8888 , fax: 876 978 7414
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES: Prozone P.O. Box # 123500 Dubai (United Arab
Emirates) tel: +9714 33-88644, fax: +009714 3385552, email: [email protected]
prozoneltd.com, http://www.dubaicycles.com
KOREA: Sanbada Sports, 1F Gungdo Building 278-19, NonHyun-Dong,
Seoul, Korea, tel: 822-543-6390, fax: 822-3442-6391, email: [email protected]
unitel.co.kr
LEBANON: BAROODY GROUP S.A.L., Baroody Building, Mkalles, P.O. Box
110-153, Beirut, Lebanon, tel: + 961 1 486 395/6/7/8, fax: +961 1 486 399,
email: [email protected], http://www.baroodygroup.com
MALAYSIA: Cannasia Pte. Ltd., 101 Frankel Avenue, Singapore, 458224,
tel: 65-6441-4772, [email protected], http://www.cannasia.com
URUGUAY: Motociclo SA, AV Sayago 1385-CP 12400, Montevideo,
Uruguay, tel: 5982 354 20 80
VENEZUELA: Bici Bikes, 2A AV., Ed. Artelito local 5 (WINDCTR) Los Palos
Grandes, Caracas, Venezuela 1041, tel: 58-212-286-0285; fax: 58-212283-7466
VENEZUELA: Puff, CA, Av. Jovito Villalba, Am Centro Empressarial, Piso 1,
OFC. 1-2. Porlamar Margarita Venezuela 6301, tel: 582-869-626155, fax:
584-148-672749, email: [email protected]
MAURITIUS: Emcar Ltd, Old Moka Road , Bell Village, Republic of
Mauritius, tel: 230-208-6335, fax: (230) 212-5952
VIETNAM: Jett Cycles, 348-350 Tran Phu, Ho chin Minh Vietnam 12345, tel:
848-385-39018, email: [email protected]
MEXICO: Bicicletas Mercurio S.A. DE C.V., Carretera Central 422 Zona
Industrial, San Luis Potosi, Mexico 78090, tel: 5201-444-144-2403
NETHERLAND ANTILLES: Tri-Sport N.V., #14B Airport Blvd Simpsonbay, St.
Maarten, Netherlands Antilles, tel: (599)545-4385, fax: (599)545-4384,
http://[email protected]
NEW CALEDONIA: Royal Motors SA., 9, route de la Baie des Dames B.P.
2548, Nouméa, New-Caledonia, 98846, tel: 687 285 912, fax: 687 286
320, http://[email protected]
WORLD WIDE MILITARY SALES: tel: 814 623 4391; fax: 814 623 2107,
[email protected]
WORLD WIDE TOURISM & RESORTS: tel: 814 623 4391; fax: 814 623
2107, [email protected]
(01/14)
86
Australian Consumer Law
Frame Warranty (frame, fork structure, swing arms)
Limited Warranty Statement for
Australia
(applies to goods sold after 1 January 2012)
Cannondale frames (except frames for Freeride, and
Dirt Jumping bikes- see below) are warranted by Cycling
Sports Group Australia Pty Ltd against manufacturing
defect (defined as a defect in materials or workmanship
as delivered with the product) for the lifetime of the
original owner.
Our goods come with guarantees that cannot be
excluded under Australian Consumer Law. According
to these guarantees you are entitled to a replacement
or refund for a major failure of the goods and for
compensation for any other reasonably foreseeable
loss or damage. You are also entitled to have the goods
repaired or replaced if the goods fail to be of acceptable
quality and the failure does not amount to a major
failure’
Cannondale frames for Freeride and Dirt Jumping bikes
(such as Gemini, Gemini DH, Judge, Perp and Chase) are
warranted against manufacturing defect for a period of
3-years from the date of original purchase. The Freeride
/ Dirt Jump warranty does not cover any bike purchased
and/or used for rental purposes. The Freeride / Dirt
Jump warranty differs from the warranty as stated in the
Cannondale Owner’s Manual only in its terms. All other
conditions apply.
A major failure will exist when the item:
Components
-
has a problem that would have stopped someone
from buying the item if they had known about it;
-
is unsafe;
-
is significantly different from the sample or
description; or
All other components, including Headshok and Lefty
internal parts, suspension parts, frame fixtures and
finishes (paint and decals) are warranted against
manufacturing defects in materials and/or workmanship
for a period of one (1) year from the date of original
retail purchase.
-
it does not do what we said it would, or what you
asked for and cannot be easily fixed.
If the problem is not a major problem, we will repair the
item within a reasonable time. If it is not repaired in a
reasonable time you can choose a refund or replacement.
In addition to these guarantees, your purchase includes
the following limited warranty which is in lieu of all other
express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the
initial consumer/ purchaser and gives that consumer/
purchaser specific legal rights. You may have other
legal rights which vary between States and Territories,
some of which do not allow the exclusion or limitation
of claims for incidental or consequential damages or
limitations on how long implied warranties last, so the
above limitations or exclusions may not apply.
Suspension forks (other than those made by
Cannondale) are not covered by this limited warranty,
but are separately covered by the stated warranty of
their manufacturer.
Most non-proprietary components have a limited
warranty offered by the component manufacturer
directly. Please contact your authorised Cannondale
dealer for additional information on making a warranty
claim on such a part. All other parts except Normal Wear
Parts (see definition below) are guaranteed against a
defect in materials or workmanship for a period of one
(1) year from the date of original purchase, subject to
the terms and conditions of this limited warranty. If
failure of a part should occur during the warranty period,
the part will be replaced. Please contact an authorised
Cannondale dealer to initiate a warranty claim on your
behalf. All parts must be returned for inspection at the
customer’s expense and be accompanied by a copy
of the original and dated proof of purchase. Normal
Wear parts, defined as grips, tubes, tyres, cables, brake
shoes, and saddle covering have a thirty (30) day limited
warranty. Claims against Normal Wear parts and missing
parts must be made within thirty (30) days of purchase.
Please contact your local authorised Cannondale dealer
for warranty assistance on components.
(continued on next page...)
87
PART II
For frame replacement under the limited warranty,
please contact the authorised Cannondale dealer from
which the bicycle was purchased and that authorised
Cannondale dealers will contact us to initiate a warranty
claim on your behalf. Frames must be returned for
inspection at the customer’s expense and include a copy
of the original and dated purchasing receipt.
(continued from previous page)
Terms of Limited Warranty
This limited warranty is not meant to suggest or imply
that the bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever.
Please note: The fork is not part of the frame and
bushings and other pivot hardware on rear suspension
frames are not part of the frame.
This limited warranty applies only to the original owner
of a Cannondale bicycle and is not transferable to
subsequent owners.
Exclusions from Limited Warranty
For any warranty claim to be considered, the bicycle
must be brought to an authorised Cannondale dealer on
the same continent on which the bicycle was purchased.
The bicycle must be in an assembled condition and
accompanied by the original receipt for the bicycle.
The limited warranty does not cover paint damage, rust,
any modification made to the bicycle, normal wear and
tear, improper assembly or maintenance, installation of
parts or accessories not originally intended or compatible
with the bicycle as sold and costs of installation,
assembly and disassembly. The warranty does not apply
to damage or failure due to accident, abuse, misuse,
neglect or theft. Claims involving these issues will not
be accepted.
This limited warranty is void if the bicycle is subjected to
abuse, neglect, improper repair, improper maintenance,
alteration, modification, an accident or other abnormal,
excessive or improper use.
Please retain and refer to your Cannondale Bicycle
Owners Manual for other relevant information regarding
your bicycle.
This limited warranty applies only to bicycles
purchased in fully assembled and adjusted condition
from authorised Cannondale dealer or other outlets
specifically authorised by Cannondale to distribute
Cannondale bicycles.
Apart from the consumer guarantees referred to above
(which cannot be excluded under Australian Consumer
Law), these are the only warranties given by Cycling
Sports Group Australia Pty Ltd. Any warranty that might
otherwise be implied by law including, but not limited to,
the implied warranty of merchantability and the implied
warranty of fitness for a particular purpose are limited
strictly to the applicable length of this limited warranty.
Damage resulting from normal wear and tear, including
the results of fatigue, is not covered. Fatigue damage is
a symptom of the frame being worn out through normal
use. It is one kind of normal wear and tear, and it is the
owner’s responsibility to inspect his/her bicycle. All
bicycles and frame sets should be periodically checked
by an authorised Cannondale dealer for indications of
potential problems, inappropriate use and/or abuse.
If you wish to make a claim under your consumer
guarantees or under the express warranties, you should
contact your original place of purchase or your nearest
authorised Cannondale dealer with proof of purchase- eg
receipt details.
Damage resulting from corrosion is not covered.
All labour charges for warranty services are the
responsibility of the bicycle’s owner.
Distributed in Australia by:
If frame failure should occur due to faulty materials or
workmanship during the guarantee period, the frame
or component will be replaced with the same or most
nearly compatible frame or component then available. If
a frame is replaced under these provisions, the warranty
period applicable to this replacement expires at the
expiry date applicable to the original frame’s warranty
time limit.
Cycling Sports Group Australia Pty Ltd
Unit 8, 31-41 Bridge Road
Stanmore NSW 2048
phone 02 8595 4444
www.cannondale.com
88
section G.
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST
Are your tires properly inflated? Tires must inflated
to the recommended pressure.
(See PART I, Section 4.G Tires and Tubes).
Are your wheels true? Lift each end of the bike and
spin each wheel. Does the space between the rim
and the brake pads, or the tire and the frame, remain
nearly the same size as the wheel turns? Are your
spokes tight? (See PART I, Section 1.C Mechanical
Safety Check).
WARNING
FOLLOW THIS CHECKLIST BEFORE EVERY RIDE.
IF YOU HAVE ANY REASON TO SUSPECT THAT
YOUR BICYCLE IS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY,
DO NOT RIDE IT.
Are your wheels’ quick-releases properly fastened?
Be sure to read the section on proper operation
of quick-release skewers (See PART I, Section 4.A
Wheels).
Have it inspected by an Authorized Cannondale
Retailer. To locate your nearest Authorized
Cannondale Retailer call 1-800-BIKE-USA. Failure
to follow this checklist and to have any potential
problem inspected could lead to an accident, with
risk of serious injury, paralysis or death.
Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate
equipment and clothing, such as protective glasses
and gloves? Do not wear loose clothing that could
become entangled in the bicycle (See PART I, Section
2.A The Basics).
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened?
Twist the handlebars firmly from side to side while
holding the front wheel between your knees. The
stem must not move in the steering tube. Similarly,
the seatpost must be secure in the seat tube (See
PART I, Section 3. Fit).
Are your front and rear brakes functioning
properly? With V-brakes, the quick release “noodle”
must be properly installed. With cantilever brakes,
the quick release straddle cable must be properly
attached. With caliper brakes the quick release lever
must be closed. With any rim brake, the brake pads
must make firm contact with the rim without the
brake levers hitting the handlebar grip (See PART I,
Section 4.C Brakes).
With hydraulic disc brakes, check that the lever feels
firm, does not move too close to the handlebar grip,
and there is no evidence of leaking brake fluid. With
cable actuated disc brakes, check that the lever feels
firm and does not move too close to the handlebar
grip. With any disc brakes, the brake pads must
make firm contact with the rotor without the brake
levers hitting the handlebar grip (See PART I, Section
4.C Brakes).
How do your clipless pedals work today? Clip in and
out of your pedals before you begin. Experienced
cyclists do. The connection between cleat and pedal
is affected by dozens of factors including dirt, mud,
lubrication, spring tension and wear. By clipping in
and out you will check the function and have a fresh
memory of how they feel (See PART I, Section 4.E
Pedals).
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at
dusk, dawn or at night, you must make yourself
visible to motorists. Use front and rear lights and
a strobe or blinker. Reflectors alone do not provide
adequate visibility. Wear reflective clothing (See
PART I, Section 2.E Night Riding and PART II, A.
Important Safety Information).
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your
braking distances will increase, and your tires’ grip
on the road will decrease. Remember that motorists’
visibility decreases with bad weather (See PART
I, Section 2.D Wet Weather Riding and PART II, A.
Important Safety Information)
How recently were your frame, fork and
components inspected? Never ride a frame, fork or
components with any crack or damage. (See PART II,
- Section D. Inspect For Safety)
89
PART II
APPENDIX A.
Cannondale BB30 Standard Bicycle Frames
Certain Cannondale bicycle frames are manufactured using the BB30 standard. See http://www.
BB30standard.com/. It may be possible to convert a BB30 frame for use with standard English/68mm or
73mm bottom bracket cranksets using the appropriate Cannondale frame adapter. Other adapters, ones not
specifically approved for use by Cannondale, may void your warranty.
Figure 31. BB30 Bottom Bracket Shell
CAUTION
All Adapters must be installed by a professional bike mechanic. No adapter should be used as a frame
repair part. Adapters should only be used in undamaged frames in good condition. Improper installation
or removal can result in damage and void applicable frame warranty.
The adapter is removable, however, repeated removal and reinstallation could result in damage to the SI BB
shell and is not recommended. Damage caused by improper removal is not covered under your warranty.
90
APPENDIX B.
Maximum Fork Length (Mountain Bikes)
Maximum Fork Length is an important frame safety testing specification for front suspension mountain bikes.
You must observe the measurement when installing headset parts, headset adapters, installing and adjusting
a fork, and selecting replacement forks.
FROM
BOTTOM OF FRAME
HEAD TUBE
Headset
MAXIMUM
FORK
LENGTH
TO CENTER OF
THE FORK AXLE
WARNING
YOU MUST SELECT A REPLACEMENT FORK NOT ONLY BASED ON HEAD TUBE DIAMETER BUT THE
CRITICAL FACTOR OF FRAME MAXIMUM FORK LENGTH
DO NOT EXCEED MAXIMUM FORK LENGTH. Exceeding the MAXIMUM FORK LENGTH limit can overload
the frame causing it to break while riding.
Your retailer MUST follow observe this specification for your bike. For Maximum Fork Length specifications
for Cannondale bicycles, see http://www.cannondale.com/
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED OR KILLED IN AN ACCIDENT
IF YOU IGNORE THIS WARNING.
91
PART II
APPENDIX C.
Care And Maintenance Of
Carbon Fiber Seat Posts
3 Position the seat binder on the seat tube with
the binder slot (A) opposite the seat tube
slot (b). Locating the binder slot opposite
the seat tube slot reduces the chances of
cracking from deformation or accidental
overtightening. Inserting the Seat Post
Check the seat tube (1) opening , and slot (2)
carefully for sharp edges or burrs. Anything that can
scratch, score, gouge, or cut the seat post can cause
serious damage leading to breakage of the seat
post.
Sharp edges or burrs can be removed by hand by
lightly sanding with a very fine sandpaper (400 grit).
The should feel very smooth without jagged edges
or nicks.
(1)
4. Insert the seat post and tighten the seat binder
to the specified torque with an accurate torque
wrench. Consult the seat post manufacturer’s
instructions for torque information.
5. Check tightening torques of the saddle to
seat post clamp bolts. Too much torque may
break the bolts. Too little torque will result
in movement which leads to fatigue and bolt
breakage.
(2)
Figure 32.
Figure 33.
1. Make sure the seat post, seat binder, and seat
tube are clean.
2. Apply small amount of a carbon seat post gel
(Cannondale part number KF115/ to seat post
surface. The gel adds desirable friction and
minimizes corossion. It will help keep your seat
post in place.
92
Periodic Seat Post Inspection
Frequent seat post checks are necessary to identify
the problems that can lead to an accident. Regularly
or in conjunction with your regular bike maintenance
routine, do the following:
4. KEEP THE SEAT POST’S “MINIMUM INSERT”
BELOW THE TOP OF THE SEAT TUBE.
5. USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN SEAT
POST BINDER AND ALL SADDLE MOUNTING
FASTENERS.
1. Remove the seat binder from the frame seat
post. Clean the binder, the seat post, and inside
the seat tube. Use a clean dry towel. Do not use
solvents.
2 Carefully inspect the seat post for damage (e.g.,
cracks, scratches, scrapes, gouges, splintering).
If the seat post is damaged in any way, (cracks,
scratches, scrapes, gouges, splintering), do not
ride it; discard it. Replace it with a new one.
3. Always properly torque saddle to seat post clamp
bolts. Too much torque may break the bolts.
Too little torque will result in movement which
leads to fatigue and bolt breakage.
WARNING
To avoid seat post or frame damage:
1. FOLLOW THE SEAT POST MANUFACTURER’S
INSTRUCTIONS If you do not have the
manufacturer’s instructions for your seat post,
obtain and read them before using the seat post.
2. INSPECT AFTER ANY CRASH, FALL, OR
IMPACT - Remove and inspect the seat post for
damage (eg., cracks, scratches, scrapes, gouges,
splintering). If you find damage, replace it with
a new one. STOP RIDING A DAMAGED SEAT
POST IMMEDIATELY GO TO PART II, Section
D. Inspect For Safety. Read “Understanding
Composites” for information on carbon fiber
3. NEVER FORCE A SEAT POST INTO THE SEAT
TUBE. The seat post should always be a slide
fit. If the seat post is difficult to install, there is
a serious problem. Do not shorten or cut a seat
post. Ask your Cannondale dealer for help in
properly fitting and adjusting your seat post.
93
6. NEVER USE LIGHT OR SPRAY OILS TO
LUBRICATE A SEAT POST OR INSIDE THE SEAT
TUBE. Never use solvents, or chemical spray
cleaners to clean the inside of the seat tube.
Wipe out the seat tube with a clean dry towel
only. Light oils (WD40 and oils typically used in
honing) and solvents, and including chemical
cleaners can attack and weaken composite bonds
holding the frame together leading to breakage.
Follow the seat post and frame manufacturer
instructions. See also page 74.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED
OR KILLED IF YOUR IGNORE THESE WARNINGS.
PART II
How does it affect my bike?
The seat post must not be forced beyond the limit
depth. Attempting to insert the seat post beyond
the limit can damage the seat post and/or frame.
Seat Post Insert Limit
To fit some riders who require a lower seat it may be
necessary to cut the seat post. This must be done by
a professional mechanic who will: Carefully measure,
Cut with the proper tools, Smoothly finish the new
lower edge of the shortened seat post, Re-mark the
CPSC required minimum insertion line on the seat
post, Install with the proper lubricant or carbon gel.
SEAT POST
(Saddle not shown)
WARNING
SEAT TUBE
DON’T CUT A SEAT POST YOURSELF.
“MINIMUM INSERT”
(of seat post)
If the seat post requires cutting, have it done by
a professional bike mechanic with experience
cutting high performance carbon or alloy
compoments..
Saddle height
adjustment range
This will help ensure that:
SEAT POST INSERT LIMIT
(for frame)
1. The seat post is cut properly.
What is it?
2. The seat post adjustment range in the frame
is correct and the saddle height fits you
Some frames have designs that limit how far into the
frame the seat post can be inserted.
3. The seat post is correctly re-marked with its
“MINIMUM INSERT.”
Such a seat post insert limitation is a physical limit
and will affect seat posts made of any material.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED
OR KILLED IF YOUR IGNORE THIS WARNING.
Such a seat post insert limit will be marked on
the frame, via a frame decal and/or in the owner’s
manual supplement as “seat post insert limit” in the
Geometry/Specifications section.
1. The seat post is cut properly.
2. The seat post adjustment range in the frame is
correct and the saddle height fits you
3. The seat post is correctly re-marked with its
“MINIMUM INSERT.”
94
Minimum Seat Post Insert Depth
How Does It Affect My Bike?
You must always have at least the required minimum
length of seat post inserted inside the frame.
WARNING
SEAT POST
(Saddle not shown)
IF YOUR FRAME HAS A MINIMUM SEAT
POST INSERT DEPTH, MAKE SURE THE
SPECIFIED LENGTH SEAT POST IS INSTALLED
INSIDE THE SEAT TUBE AT ALL TIMES. ASK
YOUR CANNONDALE DEALER ABOUT THIS
SPECIFICATION.
SEAT TUBE
MINIMUM
SEAT POST
INSERT DEPTH
(for frame)
TOP TUBE
Failure to insert the seat post correctly can
improperly stress the frame and/or the seat post
10
causing the frame to break while riding.
YOU MUST ALSO BE AWARE THAT bicycle
seat posts are permanently marked by the
manufacturer with a “MINIMUM INSERT” line
on the seat post itself. You must not rely on this
marking as an indication of the proper MINIMUM
SEAT POST INSERTION DEPTH.
What is it?
Some frames have designs that require no less than
a specified length of the seat post to be inserted
inside the frame. This requirement is more common
on high performance carbon fiber mountain bikes,
but can exist for other designs. The frame and
the seat post work together, support each other.
Inadequate overlap of these parts can lead to failure
in high load situations.
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED
OR KILLED IN AN ACCIDENT IF YOU IGNORE
THIS WARNING.
Such a minimum seat post insert limit will be marked
on the frame, via a frame decal and/or in the owner’s
manual supplement as “minimum seat post insert”
in the Geometry/Specifications section.
95
PART II
APPENDIX D.
Care And Maintenance Of Carbon Fiber Forks & Stem
WARNING
ALWAYS SEEK PROFESSIONAL SERVICE - Incorrectly installing, adjusting, servicing, or assembling the wrong
parts (handlebar stem, compression assembly, brake bolt, spacers and spacer positions) on your bicycle fork can
cause serious damage to it. Any failure in the fork, headset, handlebar stem, or compression assembly while
riding can cause you to have a serious accident. All adjustments, maintenance, and any changes must be made by
your Cannondale Dealer.
STOP RIDING A DAMAGED FORK & STEM IMMEDIATELY Your fork can be seriously damaged in any crash or
impact. Damage can be concealed and requires very carefully inspection by a professional bike mechanic. A
damaged fork and/or handlebar stem can fail without warning. Go to PART II, Section D. Inspect For Safety. Read
“Understanding Composites” for information on carbon fiber
REPLACE THE FORK WITH A NEW ONE IF THE DROPOUT TABS ARE MISSING OR DAMAGED. The dropout tabs
located at the bottom of the fork dropout act as a secondary wheel retention device and can reduce the risk of the
wheel disengaging from the fork if the quick release is not correctly adjusted and closed. It is possible for the tabs
to become worn out or damaged through repeated wheel installation and removal, car rack use, etc. Do not file,
disable or remove the secondary retention devices. If they are damaged or severely worn, replace the fork.
DO NOT MODIFY THE FORK IN ANY WAY. Do not drill holes or install mechanical clamps.
BRAKE NUT ENGAGEMENT The brake mount is the attachment point of the front brake. A correctly size brake
bolt (recessed allen nut) must be used to ensure adequate thread enagement ( a minimum of 5mm) with the
brake caliper mounting post. Ask your cannondale dealer to help you. obtain the correct brake nut.
DO NOT EXCEED THE MAXIMUM STACK HEIGHT (55mm) OR LOCATE SPACERS ON TOP OF THE STEM.
MAXIMUM STACK HEIGHT is a distance spacers may be stacked between the top of the head tube and the
bottom of the stem. Exceeding this distance with spacers or locating spacers on top of the handlebar stem can
place significant stress on the steerer tube. It could break.
All Cannondale carbon road forks with a carbon steerer tube must use the SI Compression Assembly - KP017/.
No star nuts, no other compression devices may be used, no exceptions. The SI compression assembly must be
assembled and installed inside the steerer tube according to the instructions. See page 95.
OLDER FORKS & STAR NUTS - Cannondale carbon forks (2001-2008) utilized the various star nut and top caps
systems. Systems in these forks should not be changed. Do not use the Si Compression Assembly in a fork
with a star nut.
Always tighten fasteners of the headset/stem system and brake with a torque wrench. Observe the
manufacturer’s torque limits and loctite (thread locking compound) recommendations for each component of the
fork, stem, brake and handlebar system. Ask your cannondale dealer to help you. Over-tightening may cause
damage and lead to fork or component failure.
For technical information and specifications, see http://www.cannondale.com
YOU CAN BE SEVERELY INJURED, PARALYZED OR KILLED IN AN ACCIDENT IF YOU IGNORE THESE
WARNINGS.
(continued on next page...)
96
PARTS OF A TYPICAL ROAD STEM
PARTS OF A TYPICAL CARBON ROAD FORK
COMPRESSION
ASSEMBLY
STEERER TUBE
CROWN RACE
(A Headset part)
BRAKE BOLT
STEERER TUBE
HANDLEBAR STEM
SPACERS
55mm
BRAKE
MOUNT
CROWN
HEADSET
TOP
CAP
HEAD TUBE
MAXIMUM
STACK
HEIGHT
LEG
NOTE: Carbon fiber bicycle forks and stems
come in many different shapes. The basic
parts common to most carbon forks and
handlebar stem systems are shown here.
Your fork appearance and shape may vary from
what is shown.
If you have any questions about your fork, ask
your Cannondale Dealer.
DROPOUT
DROPOUT
NOTE: DROPOUTS, STEERER, and
HANDLEBAR STEM can be made from carbon
fiber, metals or both in a “carbon fiber” fork.
TAB
Figure 34
TAB
97
PART II
(continued from previous page)
Oem vs. Aftermarket Fork Parts Compatibility
What You Have To Know When Installing Or
Adjusting Any Handlebar Stem
Your bicycle was shipped by Cannondale with a
compatible component specification. The fork, the
handlebar stem, the headset parts (i.e. spacers,
bearings, crown race), and the compression
assembly are parts of the system. Other handlebar
stems, headset parts, and compression assemblies
available to you from sources other than Cannondale
may not be compatible.
The steerer tube length for any Cannondale carbon
fiber fork with a carbon steerer is limited to the
MAXIMUM STACK HEIGHT of 55mm. This affects
the height adjustment of the stem. No spacers may
be used on top of a stem. The stack measurement
method is shown on the following page. If the
steerer tube is cut to accommodate a lesser spacer
stack height, please observe the following:
The Cannondale SI Compression Assembly - KP017/
1. Cutting must be done by a professional bike
mechanic experience d with carbon components.
Only the SI Compression Assembly KP017/
may be used in Cannondale carbon forks with a
carbon steerer tube. You may not use any other
compression assemblies: star nuts, expanding
wedge, or stems with an integrated compression
device or anything else. Incompatible parts can
cause serious damage (cracking, splitting, scoring, or
deformation) of the steerer tube.
2. To produce a straight cut, use a fork cutting jig
(e.g., Park Tool SG-6). See http://www.parktool.
com/tools/SG_6.shtml.
3. Do not clamp steerer tube directly in vice jaws
and/or cut the steerer free hand. Vice jaws
can crack or damage the surface of the steerer.
Locate the jig on the cut off end of the steerer
tube to avoid placing a clamping force on the
steerer tube which could produces cracks.
Alternatively, you can clamp the steerer in
grooved wooden blocks positioned in vice. Do
not over-tighten the vice.
A double flanged star nut may only be used in a
carbon fork with an alloy (metal) steerer tube.
Aftermarket Handlebar Stems
Many handlebar stem designs from many different
manufacturers are available. It is impossible
to provide a listing of compatibility based on
availability. Don’t think availability means
compatibility. Here are some factors affecting
compatibility:
4. Additionally, when cutting a carbon steerer
tube, use composites hacksaw blade (tungsten
carbide gritted) or a very fine toothed (36
toothed) new blade. To minimize fraying of the
carbon fibers, wrap the area of cut with masking
tape. Make only one clean complete cut. Do not
scratch, score, or mark the steerer tube surface
other than the complete cut. Scratching, scoring
or making other marks on the tube surfaces
other than the complete cut, or cutting the
steerer tube to an incorrect length for a specific
stem/headset can compromise the strength of
the steerer tube. After the steerer tube is cut,
round the cut edges smooth and remove any
burrs with fine sand paper (220 is ideal).
1. A compatible handlebar stem must be
compatible for use with the Cannondale SI
Compression Assembly KP017/.
2. The stem must be designed for use with carbon
forks having an 1 1/8 steerer tubes, without
adaptation or alteration of the stem or the
steerer tube. The surfaces must mate correctly.
3. The inside diameter of the stem clamping
surface must be smooth, free of burrs. It
must fit the outside diameter of the steerer
tube snugly with the clamp bolts completely
loosened. The stem surfaces in contact with the
steerer must be smooth, without interruptions
(large openings or holes). When clamped to the
recommended tightening torque, the stem must
not pinch or cause other impressions or cuts in
the steerer tube. Smooth and remove any burrs
with fine sand paper (220 is ideal).
WARNING
We urge you to consult closely with your local
Cannondale Dealer. This will help to make sure
that any aftermarket choices you make are
compatible with your bike’s OEM parts and will
not cause serious damage to your bike.
4. Wedge clamping stems must not be used.
98
INSTALLED CORRECTLY
48 mm
Do not grease.
KP017/
REV. 1
6Nm, 53InLbs
Expander at
lower stem bolt
2 - 3 mm
STEERER TUBE
Top cap at
upper stem bolt
STEM
55mm
HEADSET SPACERS
HEADSET TOP CAP
EXPLODED VIEW
HEADTUBE
MAXIMUM STACK HEIGHT
Measure from the top edge of the
headtube to the bottom edge
of the stem.
REV. 2
4Nm, 35InLbs
TOP CAP
EXPANDER BOLT
EXPANDER
SI Compression Assembly KP017/ Instructions
The following procedure should only be completed by a professional bike mechanic.
1. Assemble the fork, headset, spacers, and stem without tightening the stem bolts onto the head tube.
When the system is assembled, the carbon steerer tube should be 2-3 mm below the top stem. All spacers
must be located below the stem and within the maximum stack height as shown. No spacers may be
used above the stem.
2. Set-up the compression assembly before inserting it. Adjust the length so that the expander is located at
lower stem bolt. The top cap and the expander end provides critical support to the carbon steerer when
tightening the stem bolts. Adjust the length by threading the top cap on the expander parts.
3. When the assembly is the correct length, insert it into the steerer tube. It is designed to fit snugly inside
the steerer. Insert an Allen key through the access hole in the TOP CAP and into the EXPANDER BOLT.
Tighten the to the specified torque.
4. Now, to set bearing preload, insert a 6mm allen key into the hex shape in the TOP CAP itself. Turn the
entire top cap clockwise to increase preload. Turning it counter-clockwise will decrease the preload. When
the headset preload feels correct, turn the stem to align the handlebar and tighten the stem fork clamp
bolts to the torque specified for the stem. Consult the stem manufacturer’s instructions. The torque
values for components are often marked on the part.
99
PART II
APPENDIX E.
Bicycle Racks
Bicycle automobile racks are available from many different manufacturers and many different rack designs
exist. They are convenient devices to transport your bike. However, any bicycle rack has the potential to
seriously damage your bicycle. Damage can occur immediately due to some aspect of an incompatible or poor
rack design. Damage can occur after repeated mounting, and dis-mounting. Damage can also happen while
the the bike is being transported in the rack. We can’t cover all the possible ways in which a rack can cause
damage to your bike.
WARNING
READ AND FOLLOW THE RACK MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE MOUNTING TO YOUR BIKE.
Both carbon and aluminum frames and forks can be damaged (crushed, cracked, or dented) by the clamps
and support systems of a bike rack. Both carbon and aluminum can suffer serious abrasion damage by the
movement of the bike in the rack during transport. yAll damage to your bike is very serious, that is why
you must take extra care when choosing a bike rack and when actually mounting your bike in the rack.
WHEN MOUNTING YOUR BIKE ON A RACK:
■ Remove all bags, panniers, water bottles etc. To minimize wind resistance, loading, and avoid chafing
damage.
Ask your Cannondale Dealer for help choosing and using a bike rack.
See the table on the following page for more rack information.
CAUTION
WHEN USING A RACK WITH FORK DROPOUT CLAMPS:
■ Make sure that both fork dropouts are engaged in the rack before clamping.
■ Make sure both dropouts are clamped with equal force. If only one dropout is engaged and the bike
tips over, the leverage can exert great force that may damage the dropout.
■ If your bike tips over, have the dropouts examined by a retailer.
100
TYPE OF RACK DESIGN
RECOMMENDATION & CAUTIONS
CLAMPS ON TIRES / WHEELS ONLY
Suitable for both carbon and aluminum frames
This type does not use clamps on any
other part of the frame or fork.
This is the best system design because there is no potential
cracking or crushing damage to the frame or fork. Chafing wear
is avoided.
FLOATING FORK MOUNT & REAR
WHEEL TRAY
Suitable for both carbon and aluminum frames
This design functions exactly as a
quick release on your bike. The rear
wheel is clamped in a tray. No other
clamps are used on any other part of
the frame.
WHEEL CLAMPS & UPRIGHT ARM
CLAMP
In this design, wheels are clamped in
a wheel tray and the bicycle is held
upright by and arm clamping the
downtube.
NON-FLOATING FORK MOUNT
& REAR WHEEL TRAY
Be sure quick release on rack is properly adjusted and tightly
closed.
The Thule Echelon with ETC Equalized Twin Cam is suitable as it
has an axle floating mechanism, like a standard quick release.
Do not use on bikes with carbon fiber downtubes.
When clamp is tightened the carbon downtube can be broken.
When clamp is looser, chafing can cause structural wear.
A loose clamp can allow movement and possible chafing
damage. Clean the clamping area to eliminate abrasive particles,
pad the clamping area and properly tighten the clamp.
Not recommended for either carbon or aluminum bikes.
example: Thule Peloton.
If one dropout is slightly thicker than the other dropout, all
the clamping force is applied to the thicker dropout. The high
force on the one thicker dropout may crack a carbon dropout.
The thinner dropout may move in the rack causing wear and
abrasion, The fork blade attached to the thicker dropout takes
most of the loads caused by 70 mile per hour wind and bumps.
The result may be damage to your fork.
HANGER RACK
Not recommended for either carbon or aluminum bikes.
On this type the bicycle hangs on
two arms projecting aft from a trunk
mounted rack
Do not use on bikes with carbon fiber tubes.
With this type, a mechanism pulls the
two sides of the fork in at the same
time, and pulls both sides in the same
distance.
The point loading where the arms contact the underside of the
tubes may crack the tubes. Additionally the lower part of the
bike is difficult to secure, and it may move, causing chafing
and structural wear. Additionally when two bikes are mounted
on these racks the contact points between the bikes may be
cracked or chafed, causing structural damage.
101
PART II
APPENDIX f.
USING Bicycle Trainers
Trainers: Risk To Children
WARNING
Potential Damage
KEEP CHILDREN AWAY FROM BICYCLES
MOUNTED ON STATIONARY TRAINERS, EVEN
WHEN THE BICYCLE IS NOT IN USE.
CAUTION
Improperly mounting a bike in a trainer, or using
one that is not compatible with your particular
bike frame can cause serious damage.
Spinning wheels attract children’s attention and
present a serious risk to young fingers.
Children have also been known to rotate
cranks by hand on bicycles left unattended on
stationary trainers, putting themselves at risk
of serious injury.
This kind of damage is not covered by the
Cannondale Limited Warranty.
Ask you dealer for help with trainers, the right
one and the correct way to use it.
If you ride a trainer that requires removal of the front
wheel and clamps the fork dropouts: Be sure your
fork quick release is tight! Relative movement will
wear parts, weaken and damage your bike.
If you ride a trainer that holds the bike up by
clamping the rear quick release between two cones:
Take off the nice, lightweight quick release that came
with your bike. Substitute a heavy, classic all steel
quick release and clamp it tight! Relative movement
will wear parts, weaken and damage your bike. Note
that many modern quick releases will not fit the
clamping cones in this kind of trainer because their
shapes are incompatible.
Be particularly cautious with a carbon frame or fork.
Carbon is relatively soft, not abrasion resistant. If
there is any relative movement, carbon will wear
quickly.
If you ride a trainer a lot, consider using an old bike:
Corrosion from sweat will take it’s toll. Weight is
irrelevant. Save wear on your expensive components.
102
CANNONDALE AMERICAS
Cycling Sports Group, Inc.
761 Main Avenue, Building G 2nd Floor,
Norwalk CT, 06851, USA
(Voice): 1-800-BIKE-USA
(Fax): 814-623-6173
[email protected]
CANNONDALE EUROPE
Cycling Sports Group Europe, B.V.
mail: Postbus 5100
visits: Hanzepoort 27
7570 GC, Oldenzaal, Netherlands
Tel: +41 61.4879380
Fax: +31 54.1514240
Email: [email protected]
CANNONDALE UK
Cycling Sports Group
Vantage Way, The Fulcrum, Poole,
Dorset, BH12 4NU
Tel: +44 (0)1202 732288
Fax: +44 (0)1202 723366
Email: [email protected]
CANNONDALE AUSTRALIA
Cycling Sports Group
Unit 8, 31-41 Bridge Road
Stanmore NSW 2048
Tel: +61 (0)2 8595 4444
Fax: +61 (0)2 8595 4499
Email: [email protected]
FRANCAISE - Si vous parlez Francais, veuillez contacter Cannondale
Europe a l’adresse indiquee ci joint pour recevoir une copie du
manuel en Francais. Vous pouvez egalement visiter le website www.
cannondale.com http://www.cannondale.com pour visualiser le
manuel en francais.
ITALIANO - Se la sua lingua è l’italiano la preghiamo di contattare
Cannondale Europe al recapito che trovate qui sotto per per ottenere
una copia in italiano di questo manuale. Il manuale può anche
essere visualizzato sul sito Internet
www.cannondale.com/ manuals <http://www.cannondale.com/
manuals> .
DEUTSCH - Wenn Deutsch Ihre Muttersprache ist nehmen Sie bitte
mit Cannondale Europe unter unten angebenen Adresse auf für eine
deutschsprachige Kopie der Anleitung. Sie können auch auf: www.
cannondale.com/manuals
<http://www.cannondale.com/manuals> gehen für eine Anleitung
in Deutsch.
NEDERLANDS - Indien uw moedertaal Nederlands is, neemt u dan
a.u.b. contact op met Cannondale Europe op onderstaand adres
om een gratis copie van deze handleiding in het Nederlands aan te
vragen. U kunt ook onze website
www.cannondale.com/manuals <http://www.cannondale.com/
manuals> bezoeken om zo de Nederlandse versie te bekijken.
ESPANOL - Si su idioma es el español, por favor póngase en
contacto con Cannondale Europe en la dirección mencionada abajo
para obtener una copia gratuita del manual en español. Usted
también puede visitar a nuestra web
www.cannondale.com/manuals <http://www.cannondale.com/
manuals> para ver el manual en español.
CANNONDALE JAPAN
Namba Sumiso Building 9F,
4-19, Minami Horie 1-chome,
Nishi-ku, Osaka 550-0015, Japan
Tel: 06-6110-9390
Fax: 06-6110-9361
Email: [email protected]
CANNONDALE CHINA
Cycling Sports Group China Co., Ltd.
Room 208, No. 3203, Minhang District
Hongmei Road, Shanghai 201103, China
Tel: 86 21 6446 8999
Fax: 86 21 6465 6570
Email: [email protected]
WWW.CANNONDALE.COM
©2014 Cycling Sports Group, Inc.
This manual meets: 16 CFR 1512 and
EN Standards 14764, 14766, and 14781.
Vélo certifié conforme aux exigences du décret
N 95-937 du 24 août 1995 norme NFR030
131264 (01/14)
WARNING
FOLLOW THIS CHECKLIST BEFORE EVERY RIDE. IF YOU HAVE ANY REASON TO SUSPECT THAT YOUR BICYCLE IS NOT FUNCTIONING
PROPERLY, DO NOT RIDE IT.
Have it inspected by an Authorized Cannondale Retailer. To locate your nearest Authorized Cannondale Retailer call the 1-800-BIKE-USA.
Failure to follow this checklist and to have any potential problem inspected could lead to an accident, with risk of serious injury, paralysis
or death.
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST
Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate equipment
and clothing, such as protective glasses and gloves? Do not
wear loose clothing that could become entangled in the bicycle
(See PART I, Section 2.A The Basics).
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened? Twist the
handlebars firmly from side to side while holding the front
wheel between your knees. The stem must not move in the
steering tube. Similarly, the seatpost must be secure in the seat
tube (See PART I, Section 3. Fit).
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at dusk, dawn or
at night, you must make yourself visible to motorists. Use front
and rear lights and a strobe or blinker. Reflectors alone do not
provide adequate visibility. Wear reflective clothing (See PART
I, Section 2.E Night Riding and PART II, A. Important Safety
Information).
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your braking
distances will increase, and your tires’ grip on the road will
decrease. Remember that motorists’ visibility decreases with
bad weather (See PART I, Section 2.D Wet Weather Riding and
PART II, A. Important Safety Information).
Are your tires properly inflated? Tires must inflated to the
recommended pressure. (See PART I, Section 4.G Tires and
Tubes).
Are your wheels true? Lift each end of the bike and spin each
wheel. Does the space between the rim and the brake pads,
or the tire and the frame, remain nearly the same size as the
wheel turns? Are your spokes tight? (See PART I, Section 1.C
Mechanical Safety Check).
Are your wheels’ quick-releases properly fastened? Be sure to
read the section on proper operation of quick-release skewers
(See PART I, Section 4.A Wheels).
Are your front and rear brakes functioning properly? With
V-brakes, the quick release “noodle” must be properly installed.
With cantilever brakes, the quick release straddle cable must
be properly attached. With caliper brakes the quick release lever
must be closed. With any rim brake, the brake pads must make
firm contact with the rim without the brake levers hitting the
handlebar grip (See PART I, Section 4.C Brakes).
With hydraulic disc brakes, check that the lever feels firm,
does not move too close to the handlebar grip, and there is no
evidence of leaking brake fluid. With cable actuated disc brakes,
check that the lever feels firm and does not move too close to
the handlebar grip. With any disc brakes, the brake pads must
make firm contact with the rotor without the brake levers
hitting the handlebar grip (See PART I, Section 4.C Brakes).
How do your clipless pedals work today? Clip in and out of
your pedals before you begin. Experienced cyclists do. The
connection between cleat and pedal is affected by dozens of
factors including dirt, mud, lubrication, spring tension and wear.
By clipping in and out you will check the function and have a
fresh memory of how they feel (See PART I, Section 4.E Pedals).
How recently were your frame, fork and components
inspected? Never ride a frame, fork or components with any
crack or damage. (See PART II, Section D. Inspect For Safety).
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