110" YAK-54 V2 - Extreme Flight

110" YAK-54 V2 - Extreme Flight
110" YAK-54 V2
Assembly Manual
Copyright Extreme Flight 2015
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Please take a few moments to read this instruction manual before beginning
assembly. We have outlined a fast, clear and easy method to assemble this aircraft
and familiarizing yourself with this process will aid in a quick, easy build. Please
read the following paragraph before beginning assembly of your aircraft! THIS IS
NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result
from the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight is providing you, the consumer,
with a very high quality model aircraft component kit, from which you, the
consumer, will assemble a flying model. It is beyond our control to monitor the
finished aircraft you produce. Extreme Flight RC will in no way accept or assume
responsibility or liability for damages resulting from the use of this user assembled
product. This aircraft should be flown in accordance with the AMA safety code. It
is highly recommended that you join the Academy of Model Aeronautics in order
to be properly insured and operate your model at AMA sanctioned flying fields
only. If you are not willing to accept ALL liability for the use of this product,
please return it to the place of purchase immediately. Extreme Flight RC, Ltd.
guarantees this kit to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for a period
of 30 DAYS from the date of purchase. All warranty claims must be accompanied
by the original dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the original
purchaser of the aircraft kit only. Extreme Flight RC in no way warranties its
aircraft against flutter. We have put these aircraft through the most grueling flight
tests imaginable and have not experienced any control surface flutter. Proper servo
selection and linkage set-up is absolutely essential. Inadequate servos or improper
linkage set up may result in flutter and possibly the complete destruction of your
aircraft. If you are not experienced in this type of linkage set-up or have questions
regarding servo choices, please contact us at info@extremeflightrc.com or 770887-1794. It is your responsibility to ensure the airworthiness of your model.
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Congratulations on your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC 110” Yak 54 EXP
ARF! The Yak is loaded with unique features, including first rate hardware,
components and thorough instructions to ensure a trouble free assembly and set-up.
Weight saving components are used throughout, such as carbon fiber structural
reinforcement, carbon fiber wing and stab mounting tubes, carbon fiber landing
gear, titanium pushrods and a carbon fiber tail wheel assembly, all ensuring the
lightest, most high performance aircraft possible. You will notice there is a box
built into the bottom of the fuselage. This is apipe tunnel and will accommodate
most canister mufflers and tuned pipes sold for the current makes gas engines.
The performance ability of the Extreme Flight RC Yak-EXP is phenomenal! This
airframe is completely unlimited in its ability to perform the full range of full stall
high alpha maneuvers and aggressive gyroscopic tumbling maneuvers. Rock solid
in all aspects of current 3D maneuvers, the Yak will give those that fly on the
bleeding edge the confidence and capability to push through and break new ground
in expanding the rapidly evolving 3D flight envelope. Utilizing the same
lightweight interlocking laser cut construction and carbon reinforcement as our 104
inch Extra, the Yak is capable of handling the most punishing maneuvers
imaginable. We have spent a great deal of time and effort to provide you, the
discriminating aerobatic enthusiast, with the highest quality, most complete
package possible. We are very proud of the end result of our labor and wish you
great success with the assembly and flying of your Extreme Flight RC 110 inch
Yak 54!
Items needed for completion:
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Masking or painters tape.
Hobby knife with #11 blades.
Fresh Thin and medium CA. We highly recommend Mercury M5T thin and
M100XF medium formulas as well as the Mercury glue tips.
Fresh 30 minute epoxy. Mercury Adhesives Epoxies have worked very well for
us.
Blue and Red Loctite thread locking compound.
Electric drill with an assortment of small drill bits.
Small flat head and Phillips head screw drivers.
Standard and needle nose pliers.
Side cutters.
Metric ball driver or allen key set. (especially 2.5 and 3mm drivers)
Sanding block and sandpaper.
7 400oz (min) torque servos. (8 servos if you use 2 rudder servos)
1 x standard size servo for the throttle.
4 x 1.5” single aluminum Servo Arms for the ailerons (half arms)(6 half arms if
utilizing the 3rd/center aileron option)
2 x 2” single aluminum arms for the elevators (3 if using a tail mounted rudder
servo and 4 for two rudders servos)
1 x 4.5” double offset aluminum arm for the rudder if using pull-pull rudder setup.
2 x 36” for outboard aileron Servos Extensions (Inboards are close enough to not
need any extensions
2 x 48”- 60” Servo Extensions. If you need to remove the stabs frequently for
transport use 54”-60". May need 3 (or 4) if using tail mounted rudder servo(s).
5” Spinner, 85cc-120cc gas engine and recommended prop.
Engine standoffs, 1.75” length if using the recommended DA120
Some type of engine muffling (stock, cannisters or tuned pipes and headers)
Receiver, batteries, switches, fuel tank, fuel dot and tubing.
Tips for Success:
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1. Before starting assembly, take a few minutes to read the entire instruction
manual to familiarize yourself with the assembly process.
2. Go over all the seams on the aircraft with a covering iron on a medium heat
setting. Also, due to climate changes, wrinkles may develop in the covering. These
are easily removed with a little bit of heat. Use a 100% cotton tee-shirt and your
heat gun and
heat the covering while gently rubbing the covering onto the wood with the t-shirt.
Be careful not to use too much heat as the covering may shrink too much and begin
to lift at the edges. Take your time, and a beautiful, paint-like finish is attainable.
3. Apply CA to high stress areas such as servo mounting trays, landing gear
mounts, anti-rotation pins, wing and stab root ribs, and motor box joints etc.
4. By the time your aircraft arrives at your door step, it will have been handled by a
lot of people. Occasionally, there are small dings or imperfections on some of the
surfaces. An effective method to restore these imperfections to original condition is
to use a very fine tipped hypodermic needle and inject a drop of water under the
covering material and into the ding in the wood. Apply heat to the area with a
sealing iron and the imperfection will disappear. Deeper marks may require that
this process be repeated a couple of times to achieve the desired result, but you will
be surprised at how well this technique works.
5. Use high quality, fresh epoxy for installing the composite control horns and
hinges. We highly recommend Mercury Adhesives 30 minute Epoxy as well as
Pacer Hinge Glue. We are very pleased with the results and ease of application and
cleanup of these products.
6. Take the time to properly balance and trim your aircraft and set up rates with
exponential values. Your flying experience will be greatly enhanced once your
plane is properly dialed in.
7. Extreme Flight now has their own Vimeo channel and we highly recommend
viewing the assembly videos on this resource. There are many assembly videos
providing extreme detail on certain aspects of the assembly of this very model and
performed by Jeff Williams. However, if you are assembling a different Extreme
Flight model many of these videos are still applicable as some aspects are the same
regardless of the aircraft type. https://vimeo.com/user40004054
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Here are the included kit components:
Hardware packages
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Let's begin:
1. Locate the wing panels/ailerons and horizontal stabilizers/elevators and
associatedhardware bags. We will begin by hinging all of these at one time. I
suggest you scuff/roughthe surface of the hinges, they are slick from the
manufacturing process and the glue willadhere better to a non-slick surface. Using
100-150 grit sandpaper works well to do this, be sure you don't sand the barbs off
the hinge, you just want a little scuffing on the hinge, do not sand at the pivot
point. I strongly recommend 30 minute (or slower curing) epoxy for installing
hinges. I apply 3-4 drops of glue in the hinge hole and then using a toothpick, or
similar, suave the glue around the insides of the hinge hole. Do this on just one
surface, either the wing/horizontal or aileron/elevator it does not matter which is
first. Mix only enough glue to work with one panel at a time. Before applying any
glue to the hinge itself, I highly recommend you protect the hinge pin (pivot point)
from glue. I use Vaseline, but tape will work however it is harder to remove later,
in any case apply a protectant to the center of the hinge so gluecannot penetrate
that pin, it will cause binding. Once you have the holes lathered withglue, apply a
small amount to the hinge barbs and insert into the hinge hole twirling it as you
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insert it until the pin is even with the hinge line. Be sure your hinge pivots freely
and is perpendicular to the hinge line. Allow to dry, then mate to the appropriate
surface (wing toaileron/horizontal stabilizer to elevator) and allow that to dry.
Refer to figure 1 for the 3 clipped horizontal stabilizer hinges, all other hinges are
normal length.
NOTE: All hinges are the same, except the 3 most inner hinges on the horizontal
stabilizer. The stabilizer tube socket necessitates the trimming of these 3 hinges, be
sure to follow Figure 1 and that those hinges are in the correct holes.
Figure 1
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At this point you should have the both wings/horizontal stabilizer and
ailerons/elevators hinged. Now check that each hinge moves freely, if not then
work the hinge till it does move freely. If it is still binding, apply a very small drop
of 3in1 oil to the pin only. Again work the hinge in both directions and it should
now move freely. (It is acceptable to also install the rudder hinges into the vertical
stabilizer only at this time, we will mate the rudder and do other assembly later.)
2. Locate your control horns, base plates, ball links, 3mm bolts so we can install
the control horns. Again it is fine to perform this on the wings/ailerons and
horizontal/elevators at the same time. Figure 3 shows the elevator hardware for this
step. The aileron hardware is nearly identical, except the control horns are location
specific. The horns with the lowest hole for the ball link are the inner most, the
ones with the highest holes go to outer most location. If using the middle/3rd
aileron servo then the remaining horn with the hole in the middle of the horn would
be for that location. See figure 2.
Figure 2.
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Figure 3.
Now is the time to decide if you will run 2 or 3 aileron servos. If you are running
servos that have at least 400oz inches of torque, two should be sufficient. We
chose the MKS777HV for our ailerons. You can always add the middle aileron
servo later if you find it necessary. We will describe how to install a 2 servo
operation. Find the inner most slots in the aileron for the control horns. They are
approximately 5.25” from the root of the aileron measured along the hinge line.
See figure 4. The outer aileron horn slot is 7.5” from the tip, see figure 5.
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Figure 4.
Figure 5.
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5.25” inner aileron slot
7.5” outer aileron slot
Remove the covering to expose ONLY the slots. Now take the control horns and
trial fit them thru the base plate and then into the slots. Now use blue tape or other
method to determine how much covering to remove from under the base plate to
attain a base plate to wood joint. I typically leave 1/16” or 2mm of covering that
will stay under the outer edges of the base plate. Once you are happy with this take
the base plate and horns back out and scuff the lower section of the horn that will
insert into the slot and the back side of the base plate, this will provide better
adhesion. Now drop 2-4 drops of 30 minute epoxy in the slots and thoroughly coat
the portion of the control horn that will be inserted in the slot and install the base
plate and control horns.
TIP: install the ball link with the 3mm bolt while these control horns dry, this will
keep them properly aligned.
3. The horizontal stabilizers/elevator control horns are installed the exact same
way. Now is a good time to install those also.
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4.Gather your aileron and elevator servos, all servo arms and hardware so we can
install those items. I will discuss the elevator installation, but the ailerons install
very similarly. I found it is easier to mount the servos without the servo arm
attached, so install your elevator servo into the slot and secure with the
manufacturers recommended screws. You will need to retrieve the servo wire back
thru the hole in front of the servo, hemostats are very handy for this. The outer
aileron servo will require a 36” extension.See figure 6 for our installation.
Figure 6
5. Now that the elevator and aileron servos are installed, lets hook up the pushrods
and ball links. Locate the pushrods/ball links/3mm bolts/nylon insert nuts/washers
from the respective hardware bags.
This procedure will serve as the direction for all servo to control horn linkages on
this plane. First, electronically center your servos. Now thread the ball links onto
the pushrod, note that one will thread on with right hand threads and the other has
left hand threads. It does not matter which ball link you use, just thread them on
according to the thread direction. Make sure they are on at least 10 complete turns,
however I noted that there were only a few threads showing once I centered
everything during my setup. Now put the ball link in between the control horns and
insert the 3mm bolt with washer thru the control horn and ball link. Now install a
washer, blue thread lock and the nylon insert nut. Now install the ball link into the
servo arm using the same sequence as the control horn. Figure 8 shows a
completed elevator setup.
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Figure 8.
Finish the remaining elevator and aileron servo pushrod installations, this will
complete the wing/aileron and horizontal/elevator assemblies.
6. If you did not install the hinges into the vertical stabilizer in step 1, glue them in
now and then mate the rudder to the vertical using the same methods as the
wing/aileron. Do not install the control horns unless you are sure if you will run a
pull pull or direct drive system. These control horns are located in different places,
consult step 18 if you are sure which rudder setup you will use.(Do this only if you
are very experienced and understand the process.)
7. We will install the gear and tailwheel assembly next. It really does not matter
which you do first, for me I did the tailwheel assembly first as I felt it is easier to
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install without the main landing gear installed. So locate your tailwheel parts bag.
Figure 9 shows all the landing gear parts.
Figure 9
Main landing gear
Tailwheel assembly
tailwheel
cuffs
hardware
spats
axles
See figure 10 for the parts layout of the tailwheel assembly.
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main tires
Figure 10
wheel collars
3mm bolts/washers
tailwheel wire
ball link tailwheel bracket
tailwheel
tiller
bolt housing/nut
Begin assembly of the tailwheel by taking the bolt housing/nylon insert nut and
installing the bolt into the tailwheel bracket and the nut. The nut goes onto the
bottom, tighten use blue thread lock (which I will not abbreviate to BTL). Now put
one wheel collar onto the tailwheel wire, then the tailwheel and align the wheel so
it is centered and then tighten the wheel collar and then put the other wheel collar
on the other side of the wheel, use BTL. Now slide the last wheel collar over the
top of the wire but do not tighten, then slide the wire up thru the bolt housing and
install the tiller onto the tailwheel wire and tighten, use BTL. Now compress the
tiller to the top of the bolt housing and slide the wheel collar up to the bottom of
the bolt housing/nylon insert nut and tighten, use BTL.
8. Measure from the rudder hinge line back 4”/102mm and drill a 1/8”/3mm hole
in the bottom of the rudder. Now epoxy the ball link into that hole, be sure to scuff
the ball link portion that will be glued. Now slide the tiller thru the ball link and
using the 3mm bolts/washers tighten the bracket to the bottom of the fuselage.
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The factory already installed the blind nuts during their assembly, so just apply
BTL and tighten. See figure 11 for a completed tailwheel assembly.
Figure 11
9. There are two ways to install the main landing gear (MLG). You can either put
the wheels/spats on first then bolt the MLG to the fuselage or bolt the MLG to the
fuselage and then install the wheel/spats. I think it is easier to install the wheels
and spats first. Locate all hardware for the wheel assembly, this will include the
tires/axles/wheel collars/spats/bolt. Insert the axle thru the pre-drilled hole then
install the washer and nylon insert nut, use BTL and tighten. See figure 12.
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Figure 12
NOTE: the washers used on the axles have a slightly larger hole than the washers
for the MLG, please differentiate this before proceeding.
Now slide the spat onto the axle and over the hex head of the axle, then install the
3mm bolt/washer into the blind nut and tighten, use BTL.
If the spat does not have a predrilled hole you will need approximately a 5/8” hole
to fit over the hex head of the axle. I hold the spat onto the tire to approximate
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where this large would be, once you are satisfied stick a marking device thru the
wheel center and mark a spot. See figure 13 for aligning the spat.
Figure 13
Now drill out that out and I suggest you begin with a small drill bit and
progressing upwards till you get a 5/8” hole to slide over the hex on the axle. If the
spat does not have a predrilled hole for the 3mm bolt/washer, then once you have
the 5/8” hole you can further align your spat then drill a 1/8”/3mm hole and install
the blind nut on the tire side and the bolt/washer and tighten using BTL. Now slide
one wheel collar onto the axle but do not tighten, now slide the tire on the axle.
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Align the tire within the spat, there should be no rubbing anywhere, once this is as
desired then tighten the wheel collar and use BTL. Now install the remaining
wheel collar and tighten using BTL. Repeat for the other side to complete the
wheel/spat installation. See figure 14.
Figure 14.
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10. I found it easiest to lay the fuselage on its’ side to install the main landing gear
(MLG). Locate the 4mm bolts/washers/nylon insert nuts and associated tools. I
suggest you have these items nearby as the gear is so large it can be a handful to
coordinate all of this. It does not matter if you put the bolts in from the top or thru
the bottom up thru the carbon gear, let your tools decide this. I put the bolts in from
the top and installed the washer/nylon insert on the bottom of the gear. Either way,
you must first be sure to orient the gear with it sweeping forward. Simply trial fit
the gear against the fuselage’s gear plate and you can easily tell which way it will
sweep forward. Once you have that, then put the 4mm bolt and washer into the predrilled holes, then apply the washer and nylon insert nut to the other side, use BTL.
NOTE: it is acceptable to cut out the pipe access plate, it has been mostly laser cut
but has a few ties to keep it in place. Simply cut those and then you will have
easier access to the gear bolts/nuts, if you are running cannisters/pipes you will
take this off anyway. If running stock mufflers you my want to reinstall it.
11. Now locate the gear cuffs and desired glue. You could use epoxy,
welders adhesive or similar glues. I trial fit the cuff by fitting it onto the gear about
an inch or more from the fuselage and then sliding it up to the fuselage. I find a
spot where I am happy with the fit, which for me was just before it touches the
fuselage. You could allow it to touch but consider that the gear flexes many times
during takeoffs and especially landings, you may want to keep a small space so the
cuffs do not puncture or scrape the covering. Now take a small piece of blue tape
and apply it to the gear at the bottom of the cuff, this will show you where the cuff
ends so you don’t apply glue to an area that will show. I recommend you sand the
back of the cuff and even lightly sand the gear for better adhesion. Now apply glue
and I suggest you tape these in place to allow a full cure. See figures15 and 16.
Figure 15
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Figure 16
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12. We will illustrate the DA120 with stock muffler option, but there are
many power plant/muffler options you could use. The DA120 will require
1.75” standoffs, this will yield 1” of clearance between the back of the
spinner and the front of the cowl. You could go down to ¾” but 1” is
preferred. We suggest drilling ¼” holes and using 3” long ¼ X 20 bolts with nylon
insert nuts and washers. Here I would recommend red thread lock (RTL). See
figures 17 and 18.
Figure 17
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Figure 18
13. Now install your throttle servo, we use the MKS1250. It mounts inside the
motor box just behind the engine’s firewall in a precut mount. Locate your
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hardware package and thread the white ball link onto the threaded end of the
pushrod. Now approximate where your pushrod should go thru the firewall and
drill a 1/8” hole. You may need to bend the pushrod to fit around your unique
engine standoff/installation, this is fine to do if needed. I use a 1” or 1.25” servo
arm and now install the easy connector. This is best done by putting a washer on
the easy connector, then thru the servo arm, then installing another washer
followed by BTL and the nut. Tighten but allow the easy connector to swivel. Now
connect the ball link onto the carburetors’ arm and secure with the 2mm bolt,
washer and nut, tighten and use BTL. Next cut the pushrod to length if
needed/desired and make a final check of the easy connector, don’t over tighten,
and use BTL. See figures 19, 20 and 21. At this time you may also install the
motor box hatch with the screws shown in figure 19.
Figure 19
Figure 20
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Figure 21
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14. The cowling is already drilled and the mounts are in place, to install simply
slide it onto the mounts and install the supplied 3mm bolts. However, with stock
mufflers you will need to cut holes in the bottom of the cowl to accommodate the
muffler outlets. Also the cowling needs to have the front baffle installed, I
recommend you trial fit the cowl and see where you will need to make holes for
the muffler downspouts first. Then install the front baffle. See figures 22 and 23
for how my muffler holes are cut.
Figure 22
Figure 23
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You will also need to cut exit air holes in the cowling. Follow your engine
manufacturers recommendations, but rule of thumb is three times the inlet air area
is how big your exit air area needs to be. Now you can install the front baffle plate.
I first cut a center hole for the engines prop shaft, I simply followed a small
circular pattern that was already formed into the baffle. See figures 24 and 25.
Figure 24
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Figure 25
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Now you can glue the baffle into the front of the cowl using epoxy, welders
adhesive or similar glues. I recommend sanding that portion of the baffle plate that
will not be seen to allow better adhesion. There are two ways to hold the baffle
plate in place with pressure. One way is once you have all the adhesive applied lay
the baffle in place, then take a small balsa stick and put it thru the hole and tie a
string to it and suspend it from the baffle hole in an upright position. The weight
will help keep it in place. Secondly, and the way I did it is to set the baffle in place
with all the adhesive applied, lay the cowling on its’ front side down on a level
surface, then put a lid from a 5 gallon bucket inside the cowl with any desired
weights to hold it in place while the glue cures. See figure 26 for a completed
cowling including the openings for the engine cylinder head inlet air.
Figure 26
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15. Next mount your tank. We used the new Extreme Flight Flowmaster tank and
Flowmaster fuel tubing. The tank is ready to install upon receipt of it, however I
chose to install the small brass tubing on the inner pickup line, this defends against
the clunk wrapping itself around to the front of the tank. See figures 27,
28 and 29.
Figure 27
Figure 28
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Figure 29
16. Now install the Extreme Flight fuel dot. I chose the forward switch location on
the right side of the fuselage. You will need to cut a hole ¾” diameter and I located
that in the center of that switch’s cutout. See figure 30 for the location I used.
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Figure 30
Now cut
the hole for the Extreme Flight fuel dot and install it using the screws with BTL.
See figures 31 and 32 for my installation.
Figure 31
Figure 32
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Now run all your fuel lines, the outlet nipple of the Flowmaster tank goes to the
carburetor, the top elbow with the fuel line connected is your fuel/defuel line and it
goes to the fuel dot, the remaining top elbow is your vent line. I recommend
looping it around your tank then out the bottom of the airplane, typically we go out
the bottom of the cowling.
17. Now is a good time to install your receiver, batteries and locate your switches
as desired, I recommend using the precut switch locations.
18. I saved the rudder servo installation for last, the reason is due to the center of
gravity. Inevitably this airframe will have every engine combination from a 80cc
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range to the 150cc range and it would be impossible to write a manual to
accommodate every scenario. Therefore, I recommend installing all your radio
components, assembling the airplane and then put the rudder servo(s) in the middle
tray and see how it balances. A good starting CG is the middle to aft section of the
wing tube. If you are nose heavy then tape the servo(s) to the tail where they would
mount for a direct drive option and see how it balances. For the DA120, as we
have demonstrated in this manual, we will use a pull pull system and a MKS
HBL380 single servo in the tray. For those using the direct drive option I will have
that section also. I am covering the pull pull system first, it is important to note
that the pull pull versus the direct drive have different control horn locations.
BE SURE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH YOUR DESIRED CG/ RUDDER
SERVO LOCATION BEFORE PROCEEDING. There are only one set of rudder
control horns included, so you must determine whether you are going pull pull or
direct drive. See figure 33 for the cable outlet slot and control horn location(s) for
both rudder options.
Figure 33
hinge line
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pull pull cable outlet slot here, 7” forward of the rudder
Lower control horn location for direct drive
upper slots for pull pull
If you have not installed your rudder control horns in earlier steps, do this now
using the same process as the wings/ailerons.
OK let’s proceed with the way to setup the pull pull system, which is the likely
choice if using a DA120. Figure 34 shows all the rudder components, please
familiarize yourself with these parts.
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Figure 34
cable
pushrods for direct drive 60mm length
Ball links
rigging couplers
coated
crimps
The rudder pull pull system is started by gluing the included double rudder tray to
the middle tray area if you are using standard size servos. The tray, as is, has one
enlarged slot in case you wanted to use a larger case servo, then you would not use
the optional double rudder tray. Once you determine this you can mount your
servo(s). Plan on using the aft servo bay in the rudder tray for standard case servos,
this will yield more cable working length. Figure 35 shows the rudder tray for
larger case servos and the optional double rudder tray for standard case servos.
Epoxy the optional tray in place over the larger tray if using standard case servos.
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Figure 35
It does not matter which end you begin, the servo or the control horn. Take one end
of the cable and slide a crimp onto it then thread it thru the eye of the rigging
coupler and leave about 4-5” of excess cable beyond the rigging coupler.
NOTE: For a clean appearance I use heat shrink tubing and slide it over the crimp
and coupler for a finished look. If you choose this then slide the heat shrink tubing
on first, it may be too difficult to put it on later.
Take that excess and slide it down thru the crimp again, now slide the crimp
toward the rigging coupler till there is about ½” to 1” distance. You will have what
looks sort of like a teardrop in the cable, then loop it back thru the crimp once
more. If you are satisfied with this then using a pliers, or similar tool, squeeze the
crimp till it is flattened against the cable. See figures 36, 37 and 38.
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Figure 36
Figure 37
40
Figure 38
You may trim the excess cable, I left about 3/8”. Optionally, from the other end of
the cable I slid a piece of heat shrink over the crimp area to protect from any
fraying and to leave a clean appearance.Be sure you cross the cable as it runs thru
the fuselage to the other hookup. Now slide the heat tubing (optional), a crimp and
the rigging coupler onto the other end of the cable. Estimate the location for the
rigging coupler to be such that it will yield a taut cable.Then repeat the process for
securing the crimp/rigging coupler as above.See figure 39 for a final hookup only
leaving the heat shrink tubing to be slid over the crimp/rigging coupler and shrunk.
Figure 39
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If you are doing the direct drive/push-pull option then locate the servo bay and
remove the covering to expose location. Looking at Figure 39 you can see the
servo bay is approximately 3” forward of the rudder hinge line. In that same figure
39 you can see how the controls horns are in very different locations to
accommodate each rudder setup. Be sure you use the lower control horn location
for this direct drive setup. Not install your servo in this bay, if you choose two
rudder servos and direct drive, the other side of the fuselage has the same servo
bay. If using a single servo in direct drive, it does not matter which side you use.
Now using the 60mm long pushrod install the ball links and hook up the servo to
the control horn using the same methods as we did on the wing and horizontal. I
finished direct drive setup is in figure 40. I have elected to use a 2” servo arm.
Note that in figure 40 I have not hooked up the nylon insert nut to the control horn
or installed the servo mounting screws, this is simply to show how it would
basically look since we used pull pull on this model. The control horn is blue
because I airbrushed them, yours will be the stock G10 opaque color, but you too
can add this touch.
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Figure 40
This completes the assembly of the model, please read the remaining sections and
you will find some very useful information.
Setup and flying: I installed my batteries and receiver in the rudder tray, but you
can locate your batteries as needed if the rudder servo method in step 18 did not
yield the desirable CG location.
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The desired range is:
Forward limit CG - front of wing tube
Most desirable CG – Midpoint of wingtube to trailing edge of wing tube
Aft limit CG – up to .5" behind the trailing edge of the wing tube
One way to test your CG is to fly inverted and see if it climbs or descends. If it
climbs while inverted you are tail heavy, if it descends quickly you are nose heavy.
We typically fly a plane that exhibits a slight descent while inverted, such that a
small amount of down elevator is required for level flight. This CG seems to fit
most styles of aerobatic flying, a rear CG is not required for 3D flight. Also while
upright pitch to a 45°upline and fly for about a 100’ then roll inverted and see if the
plane will hold that same line. If it climbs it is tail heavy and if it pitches down
quickly it is too nose heavy, it may pitch slightly down but only after holding that
45° line for some time, then exhibit a slight descent.
13. Once you have the desired CG you are ready to fly. Be sure to follow all AMA
safety codes to include your local flying field rules.
Below are some recommended starting throws in degrees:
Low middle/medium High
Elevator 20
45
55
Aileron 25
32
38
Rudder 3" L/R
As desired for middle and high rates but don’t touch the
elevators
Expo 30-35
35-45
40-50
*NOTE* rudder low throw is measured at the bottom most aft portion of the
rudder. A high quality digital angle/throw meter will provide a more accurate
setup. Also be sure both elevators and ailerons match each other in terms of
degrees of throw. Here are some of the items I used on the model used in this
guide: 1 receiver capable of handling high amp draw. Two 2S 3300mah lipos for
the receiver, 1 2S 2600mah lipo with regulator for the DA120 ignition. The rudder
and each elevator have one MKS HBL380 servo, the ailerons have 1 MKS777HV
each for a total of 4. All extensions are 22AWG. A Falcon 29X9 prop with Omega
5” carbon fiber spinner.
A charge/switch for the ignition and a failsafe switch for the receiver. All other
components are in this manual.
Helpful hints:
If you need to make a repair and have the yellow/blue/silver scheme they are:
bright yellow HANU872
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silver HANU881
midnight blue HANU885
The other scheme is deep blue HANU873
true red HANU866
white HANU870
silver HANU881.
These can be found at most any hobby shop.
Here are some dimensions of the airframe.
Dimensions:
Wingspan = 110”
Fuselage length from the front of the motor to the most aft point on rudder = 97”
(Note this does not include the spinner)
Ground to top of rudder = 27.5”
Ground to top of canopy = 28”
Horizontal/elevator span = 43.5”
Gear span from outer edge of cuff to other cuff = 30.5”
Front of firewall to front of cowling = 7”
Cowling inner diameter = 13.75”
THANKS and we hope you enjoy your new Extreme Flight RC 110” Yak 54.
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