UPP C5 Turbo Kit Instructions

UPP C5 Turbo Kit Instructions
UPP C5 Turbo Kit Instructions
Please read this entire manual, and be in good understanding before attempting to install this
kit. UPP assumes that the installer is well qualified and experienced, both with turbo
charger performance, and the corvette platform. UPP takes no responsibility for the
installation nor damages that may result as result. If anything is unclear, stop and call tech
support before continuing. 719-575-0202
Additions/General Notes
Most gaskets have been supplied with this kit, but are optional for use. We
recommend RTV sealant on any seal that comes in contact with oil. And 100% pure
silicone for all exhaust mating surfaces. Silicone is made from silica-sand and has an
extremely high melting point. We have occasionally seen issues using gaskets with
increased heat/pressure created before the turbos, whereas the metal gaskets fail.
Using no gasket, but silicone with a clean surface seem so completely eliminate any
The turbos provided will need to be “clocked” for optimal fitment. Clocking the
turbo is rotating the three separate sections (turbine, cartage, compressor)
independent from each other so that each is in proper alignment. There are six 13mm
bolts on both the compressor and turbine housings, loosen these. This should allow all
three sections to spin independent from one another. It is best to mock up the turbo kit
with all these bolts loose, aligning the compressor and turbine as needed for fitment,
and the cartage section so the oil return is facing downward, with as much vertical flow
as possible.
1. Disconnect and remove the battery.
2. Remove the front bumper and two front fenders.
3. Cut the exhaust pipe aprox. 6” before the cat, this will be trimmed down later to ensure a
good fit. If this is for racing purposes, and cats will not be used, you can make your cut after
the cat. Remove the 3 bolts on each side mounting the exhaust to the headers and remove
this section of exhaust, retain the nuts and exhaust gasket flanges (should be attached to the
headers themselves)
4. Starting on the drivers side install the up-pipe to the headers using factory nuts leaving the
nuts slightly loose for adjustability. Once the up-pipe is in position make a mark through the
mounting bracket to the frame. The flex section of the exhaust should be in resting position,
not under any load, including the load of the weight of the up-pipe. If this is your first
install, you may want to secure the up-pipe with a small self tapping screw temporarily
and mock up the rest of the exhaust (turbo and down-pipe), then return to this section
and finish mounting with a bolt for final install. Placement of this is VERY
IMPORTANT, if it is not properly done it could throw off alignment of the whole
with a M10x 1.25 tap. Be careful as the frame is very thin, and any angling will result in
stripped threads. Install supplied M10x1.25 bolt to secure up pipe to frame. Before drilling
and tapping, make sure the exhaust, both up pipes and down pipes fit freely and are not
contacting anything that could cause damage or noise vibration (wiring or frame). Also
make sure the down-pipe is close proximity to mating to the existing exhaust. With all the
bolts slightly loose, there should be some adjustability and play room to move things around
slightly to obtain the best clearance.
5. Once the drivers side is complete, you will have an understanding on the orientation of the
passengers side. The passengers side will require relocation of the factory ECU.
Disconnect the bracket holding the ECU, but leave all wiring intact. The ECU will be
relocated to the battery’s old position. Feed it through the slot in the fender area, some
trimming may be required, this is normal, and the under fender area will need to be trimmed
for fitment of the turbo.
6. Finish installing the passenger side up pipe just as with drivers side, drilling, tapping, and
fastening to the frame
7. Loosely mount the turbos to the up pipes using supplied bolts, nuts, and lock washers,
trimming any additional plastic as needed. The compressor inlet should be facing towards
the rear of the car. Hardware supplied is M10x1.5, notice 4 of the bolts are longer (40mm),
these are mounted in the inner-most holes upside-down through the up-pipe first, acting as
studs. This should make installation of the inner bolts a little easier. The outer holes use
M10x1.5 30mm (short) bolts as normal through the turbo into the up-pipe.
8. Mock install the down-pipes, you will see a point on the pinch weld of the frame where the
down-pipe will make contact. Mark this section and place a series of cuts into the pinch
weld. Using a hammer, bend this pinch weld up. We are keeping the structural integrity of
the frame, just relocating it.
9. Install the down pipes with the supplied v-band clamps. It is easiest to route the down pipe
from under the car, and snake it upward into position going over the up pipe. At this point
all connections should be left slightly loose for fitment, do not tighten.
10. It should be visible where the down pipes will be fitting up to the exhaust. Connecting the
exhaust will vary from car to car, based off if an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system is
already installed. We have supplied Additional V-band clamps and rings. The rings are to
be welded to the existing exhaust and clamped to the down-pipes using the supplied clamps.
Some cars, especially those with 3” exhaust, will require the rings to be welded to adapters
that span from 2.5”-3”. Any local muffler shop should be able to build/install these.
11. Once everything is in place, and fitted, tighten down the fasteners in the following sequence:
V-band (turbo to down pipe), v-band down pipe to exhaust, up-pipe to header bolts, up-pipe
to turbo bolts.
12. Next install the external wastegates using the supplied M8x1.25 hex head bolts to the down
pipes, and the dump tubes to the external wastegates as shown.
13. Routing of the vacuum lines for the wastegates will vary according to each setup and the
presence of a boost controller. The most basic setup for the wastegate is running a line from
the 90deg barb fitting on the turbo’s compressor cover directly to the lower nipple on the
wastegate, and leaving the top one vented to atmosphere. The way the wastegates are
designed is the pressure in the bottom port causes the wastegate to open and the turbo to stop
spooling, pressure in the top does the opposite (closes the w/g and keeps the turbo spooling).
By applying pressure directly to the bottom port, the turbos will stop spooling at a preset
spring tension (depending on kit ordered, 6psi, 8psi, or12psi). Adding a boost controller to
this will allow an increase in boost from this spring tension, but never a reduction. Majority
of boost controllers are a bleed type system, causing the lower port on the w/g to read less
boost than what is actually present in the manifold. Majority of these boost controllers will
not require the use of the top port of the wastegate, in this case do NOT plug the top port
of the waste gate, let it vent to atmosphere.
14. In the event that a boost controller is to be used, it is best to “T” the vacuum source from the
two turbos together, then to the boost controller, then “T” from the boost controller back
apart to the wastegates. This will help ensure that both wastegates are receiving the same
boost reference signal.
15. For extremely high psi applications the top port of the wastegate can be used. Consult your
boost controller manufacture for instructions on setting up and using both wastegate ports.
16. Install the BOV’s to the intercooler, using supplied M6x1.0 hex-head bolts. (These are
located in the boxes with the BOV’s). Mount the BOV’s with the horns facing down and
outwards. Install the Intercooler into the car. Attach the intercooler to the radiator cradle
using supplied (2) M8x1.25 bolts with washers and nuts. Align the intercooler center with
the car, and mark on the cross sectional square tube the mounting locations, then drill.
17. Start assembly of the intercooler plumbing from the turbo side going to the intercooler.
Start with a 45° silicone coupler to the 45° aluminum pipe. You’ll see where this contacts
the inner fender liner. Using a 2” hole-saw drill a hole.
Next connect the long aluminum pipe with the 45° on one end using a 2” hump silicone
connector. The 45° faces forward. For this to fit properly, part of the top of the inner fender
will need to be trimmed. Using the same hole-saw aprox. 13” from the rear edge of the
fender liner, drill a hole downward and cut the excess between the two holes, creating a
valley for the pipe to merge from. This recesses the pipe up into the fender far enough to
ensure the tires don’t rub. If you experience rubbing this pipe will have to be positioned up
further. If you are lowered and cannot move the pipe up further, it may require flattening on
the bottom edge at the apex of the tire.
19. The long pipe will now rest in this hole from the bottom side with the 45° bend facing
forward and down. Next connect a 90° silicone coupler facing inward to the 90° aluminum
pipe facing downward. This is one of the aluminum pipes that is symmetrical (equal length
on both sides) To assist with holding long pipe in place you can drill a hole in the fender
liner on each side of the turbo and insert a zip tie.
20. From here, connect a 45° coupler facing forward to the final 90° (non symmetrical) pipe into
the intercooler. At the intercooler this is connected with a 2”-2 ½ “ silicone coupler.
Intercooler Piping Layout
21. Hold the 3.5” aluminum pipe in position going between the intercooler and throttle body,
and mark where it crosses the radiator. Using a cutoff wheel carefully cut slots in the
vertical section. Bend these sections over each other to allow for extra clearance.
22. From the intercooler connect the 3.5” aluminum pipe to the MAF using the supplied 3.5”
silicone hump coupler.
a. 97-00 Install the new IAT sensor into the aluminum pipe and connect to factory
wiring. Connect the aluminum to the MAF using the 3.5” hump silicone
connector and the MAF to T/B using the 3.5”-4” coupler.
b. 01-04 Connect to the MAF using the 3.5”-3.75” silicone coupler, and the MAF to
the T/B using the 3.5”-4” silicone coupler.
23. Once all plumbing is in place, secure using the appropriate sized t-bolt clamps.
24. Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the oil temperature sensor housing (located next to the
oil filter). Install the supplied oil housing extension with the new bolts. Make sure surfaces
are smooth and clean, and apply a small amount of RTV sealant for a gasket. The 90° fitting
should be pointed up facing rearward.
25. For ease of installation, the oil lines have been preassembled for you. The oil line facing up
will go to the passenger side and the oil line facing down will go to the drivers side. Make
sure to route them in a way that the line itself will not be in contact with any hot exhaust
26. Route the oil lines to the top side of each turbo. Install the oil inlet adapters with the
supplied M8x1.25 Allen head bolts. Attach oil lines. Make sure the oil lines are routed so
they will not be touching moving parts or hot exhaust.
27. Oil return lines are routed from the bottoms of the turbos to a “T” connector under the car,
then from the “T” connector up past the oil filter housing and over the front sub-frame to the
oil return pump. When installing the lines be sure to route them so they are not kinked in
any manner, and have a predominantly vertical downward flow away from the turbos. The
oil lines should “T” behind the exhaust as seen in the picture. Oil lines are secured to the
bottom of the car via the rubber insulated oil line clamps.
28. Install the oil return adapters to the bottom of the turbos using supplied M8x1.25 Allen head
29. Attach the -10AN hoses to the turbo fittings and route downward. The 41” oil line goes to
the passenger side, the 28” line goes to the drivers side. Connect each of these lines to the
supplied -10AN T-fitting. Attach the final -10AN line (38”) to the T-fitting and route it
towards the front of the car, up past the oil filter and over the cross member. Make sure
this is away from moving parts (belts and sway-bar).
30. Remove the two 10mm bolts from the bottom side of the oil pan (rear most, very long bolts).
Using the rubber insulated fastener clamps secure the oil return line coming from the
passenger side up to the vehicle. Using two more fastener clamps secure the oil return hoses
to the undercarriage using supplied self tapping screws.
31. Take care to ensure that the hose is not touching anything hot (exhaust) or moving parts
(suspension and steering).
32. The TurboWerx pump will require a 90° brass elbow to be installed on the inlet side. You
will notice that it does not readily screw in, but comes in contact with the heat shield.
Because of this the shield must temporarily be removed for installation of the elbow. To
remove the heat shield locate the 2 small Allen head screws located between the fins on the
heat shield and remove them. The shield should now slide off and out of the way giving
access to screw in the brass elbow. Once the elbow is in and tight make sure it is facing
away from the main pump housing (as pictured) and reinstall the heat shield.
33. Mount the TurboWerx fluid transfer pump on the front right side of the aluminum sub frame.
Mark the frame with the two lower holes on the pump. Drill out the holes and install the
fluid transfer pump using the supplied M6x1.0 bolts, nuts and washers.
34. Connect the 3/8” MIP- -10AN fitting into the brass elbow.
35. Connect the -10AN line to the fittings installed on the oil pump. Connect the -6AN line to
the top side of the oil pump (out) and route upwards toward the oil fill cap.
36. Remove the oil cap. Drill and tap the oil cap with and tap with a 1/4” NPT tap. Install the
90° -6AN fitting into the cap using Teflon tape. Install the oil return hose coming from the
oil return pump to the oil cap fitting.
37. Wire in the supplied relay to the Tilton pump using an ignition source (on in start/run), in
this case we tapped a fuel injector 12+ wire (if you tap this wire be sure it is the 12V+ wire,
and not the injector signal wire). Make sure you use the relay, as the TurboWerx pump
draws a lot of current, and could cause damage to your electrical system. For this part
we are expecting general electrical knowledge on relay wiring, using crimp connectors etc.
But we have supplied a basic schematic.
To Ground
To Battery
Not Used
To Pump +
To Switched Ign Source (Fuel
Inj +12V)
38. Connect the wiring as shown and to the oil return pump. Connect the negative wire from the
pump to a ground using supplied eyelet connector.
39. Install the front cover fascia over the radiator and intercooler area. Fit it so it is centered.
Notice that there are no mounting holes in the front of it. Once the cover is centered
temporarily place the bumper back on, marking the holes with where they align to the front
bumper, and drill. Holes have intentionally not been placed to ensure the best fitment.
When reinstalling the front bumper, the bumper goes over the cover fascia.
40. To install the battery relocation kit, mount the battery in the rear, drill two holes (just large
enough to fit the 4ga wiring) from the top down, along the edge of the compartment, such
as they battery will not sit on top of them once installed. Generally the battery will fit in the
rear compartment on the passengers side. Install a battery terminal to one end of the 4ga
wiring, and an eyelet on the other, do this for both wires. The short wire goes between the
negative terminal and the frame. The positive one is routed up to the front of the car and
connected on the passengers side of the fuse box, at the positive lug. Cut the OEM battery
terminal off and discard. Discard the small wire from the battery terminal to fuse box lug.
The remaining large positive wire connects to the starter. Install a 4ga eyelet and terminate
this at the fuse box lug (same place as positive wire from battery in trunk). For routing the
wiring, it’s easiest to route it under the car, and through the passengers side rocker panel.
Be sure to route it away from any hot or moving parts, and zip tie into place so it is not
***Note: If problems with the electrical system occur, check grounding wire. Paint may
need to be sanded away to ensure a good clean ground. Also on rare occasion, an
additional ground will need to be attached from the frame up front to the engine block
for additional engine grounding.
41. Make sure the ECU and all associated wiring are secure in the battery compartment and will
not come loose and fall onto the turbo. Use zip-ties if necessary. Install the battery
compartment cover. Loosen the factory nut on the fender well and slide cover behind it.
Carefully reach under cover and tighten nut. Install two self tapping screws on the inside
drilling into the plastic battery compartment cover.
42. Install fuel injectors
43. Install the supplied filters onto the turbos. The smaller turbo is for the passenger side, as it
requires less clearance.
44. Disconnect the vacuum line on the passengers side of the throttle body going to the valve
cover and place a vacuum cap over the throttle side nipple (this prevents boost pressure from
entering the crank case).
45. Again on the passenger side of the throttle body find the vacuum line that connects the
throttle body to the crank case valley under the front side of the intake manifold and
disconnect this line. The crank case side can be left open as a vent, or vented to a optional
catch can system (not supplied). The throttle body side will now become the boost reference
source for the turbos system. Connect this to the BOV’s, boost gauge, and any other
accessories in need of a boost/vacuum reference signal (water/meth injection). It’s easiest to
route a single vacuum line to the bov’s and “T” it between the two, making sure that both
get proper boost/vacuum signal. Be sure to route the vacuum line and zip tie it away from
all moving belts, accessories, and fans.
46. Reconnect the battery in the trunk.
47. It is recommended that the car be dyno-tuned prior to installing the fenders and front bumper,
incase access to the turbos is needed.
48. Next the fenders will need to be trimmed to fit back onto the car. On the inside of the
fender mark the scoop with tape as seen in the picture. Using cutoff wheel carefully cut
away at the excess. Use a grinder and a sanding block to smooth and clean the edges. If
you cut only on the inside, repainting will not be necessary.
Once it has been trimmed, check for fitment. This may take a few tries to make sure it
is trimmed enough, but only cut a little at a time to ensure you don’t cut more than what is
50. Scuff and clean the inside of the fender near the scoop. Using 3M panel bonding adhesive,
place a series of glue blobs on the inside of the scoop, and place a metal retaining clip into
the blob. Spin the clip to ensure that the adhesive is sticking to it. Let it fully dry. When
complete you should have a series of metal wire pins sticking inwardly from the fender.
Place the grill mesh over the scoop and the wire tabs through the mesh. Gently form the
mesh to the contour of the scoop, and bend the metal wire tabs over to secure the mesh in
When done correctly it should have a factory shape and appearance with a grill mesh
to conceal the turbos.
52. Once the fenders are reinstalled, it is optional (but recommended) that the fender liners be
reinstalled as well, as to prevent debris and dirt building up on the turbos. In order to do this,
you will have to trim the fender liners to make room for the down-pipes. Trim as necessary,
leaving ¼” space between the down-pipes and liners. Part of the bottom section of the liner
is what attaches the fender to the frame, try not to trim this piece off.
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