UPP C5 Turbo Kit Instructions Please read this entire manual, and be in good understanding before attempting to install this kit. UPP assumes that the installer is well qualified and experienced, both with turbo charger performance, and the corvette platform. UPP takes no responsibility for the installation nor damages that may result as result. If anything is unclear, stop and call tech support before continuing. 719-575-0202 Additions/General Notes • Most gaskets have been supplied with this kit, but are optional for use. We recommend RTV sealant on any seal that comes in contact with oil. And 100% pure silicone for all exhaust mating surfaces. Silicone is made from silica-sand and has an extremely high melting point. We have occasionally seen issues using gaskets with increased heat/pressure created before the turbos, whereas the metal gaskets fail. Using no gasket, but silicone with a clean surface seem so completely eliminate any problems. CLOCKING THE TURBO: • The turbos provided will need to be “clocked” for optimal fitment. Clocking the turbo is rotating the three separate sections (turbine, cartage, compressor) independent from each other so that each is in proper alignment. There are six 13mm bolts on both the compressor and turbine housings, loosen these. This should allow all three sections to spin independent from one another. It is best to mock up the turbo kit with all these bolts loose, aligning the compressor and turbine as needed for fitment, and the cartage section so the oil return is facing downward, with as much vertical flow as possible. 1. Disconnect and remove the battery. 2. Remove the front bumper and two front fenders. 3. Cut the exhaust pipe aprox. 6” before the cat, this will be trimmed down later to ensure a good fit. If this is for racing purposes, and cats will not be used, you can make your cut after the cat. Remove the 3 bolts on each side mounting the exhaust to the headers and remove this section of exhaust, retain the nuts and exhaust gasket flanges (should be attached to the headers themselves) 4. Starting on the drivers side install the up-pipe to the headers using factory nuts leaving the nuts slightly loose for adjustability. Once the up-pipe is in position make a mark through the mounting bracket to the frame. The flex section of the exhaust should be in resting position, not under any load, including the load of the weight of the up-pipe. If this is your first install, you may want to secure the up-pipe with a small self tapping screw temporarily and mock up the rest of the exhaust (turbo and down-pipe), then return to this section and finish mounting with a bolt for final install. Placement of this is VERY IMPORTANT, if it is not properly done it could throw off alignment of the whole system. PLEASE MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS IN PLACE AND PROPER FITMENT BEFORE DRILLING/TAPPING THE FINAL HOLE! Drill and tap this with a M10x 1.25 tap. Be careful as the frame is very thin, and any angling will result in stripped threads. Install supplied M10x1.25 bolt to secure up pipe to frame. Before drilling and tapping, make sure the exhaust, both up pipes and down pipes fit freely and are not contacting anything that could cause damage or noise vibration (wiring or frame). Also make sure the down-pipe is close proximity to mating to the existing exhaust. With all the bolts slightly loose, there should be some adjustability and play room to move things around slightly to obtain the best clearance. 5. Once the drivers side is complete, you will have an understanding on the orientation of the passengers side. The passengers side will require relocation of the factory ECU. Disconnect the bracket holding the ECU, but leave all wiring intact. The ECU will be relocated to the battery’s old position. Feed it through the slot in the fender area, some trimming may be required, this is normal, and the under fender area will need to be trimmed for fitment of the turbo. 6. Finish installing the passenger side up pipe just as with drivers side, drilling, tapping, and fastening to the frame 7. Loosely mount the turbos to the up pipes using supplied bolts, nuts, and lock washers, trimming any additional plastic as needed. The compressor inlet should be facing towards the rear of the car. Hardware supplied is M10x1.5, notice 4 of the bolts are longer (40mm), these are mounted in the inner-most holes upside-down through the up-pipe first, acting as studs. This should make installation of the inner bolts a little easier. The outer holes use M10x1.5 30mm (short) bolts as normal through the turbo into the up-pipe. 8. Mock install the down-pipes, you will see a point on the pinch weld of the frame where the down-pipe will make contact. Mark this section and place a series of cuts into the pinch weld. Using a hammer, bend this pinch weld up. We are keeping the structural integrity of the frame, just relocating it. 9. Install the down pipes with the supplied v-band clamps. It is easiest to route the down pipe from under the car, and snake it upward into position going over the up pipe. At this point all connections should be left slightly loose for fitment, do not tighten. 10. It should be visible where the down pipes will be fitting up to the exhaust. Connecting the exhaust will vary from car to car, based off if an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system is already installed. We have supplied Additional V-band clamps and rings. The rings are to be welded to the existing exhaust and clamped to the down-pipes using the supplied clamps. Some cars, especially those with 3” exhaust, will require the rings to be welded to adapters that span from 2.5”-3”. Any local muffler shop should be able to build/install these. 11. Once everything is in place, and fitted, tighten down the fasteners in the following sequence: V-band (turbo to down pipe), v-band down pipe to exhaust, up-pipe to header bolts, up-pipe to turbo bolts. 12. Next install the external wastegates using the supplied M8x1.25 hex head bolts to the down pipes, and the dump tubes to the external wastegates as shown. 13. Routing of the vacuum lines for the wastegates will vary according to each setup and the presence of a boost controller. The most basic setup for the wastegate is running a line from the 90deg barb fitting on the turbo’s compressor cover directly to the lower nipple on the wastegate, and leaving the top one vented to atmosphere. The way the wastegates are designed is the pressure in the bottom port causes the wastegate to open and the turbo to stop spooling, pressure in the top does the opposite (closes the w/g and keeps the turbo spooling). By applying pressure directly to the bottom port, the turbos will stop spooling at a preset spring tension (depending on kit ordered, 6psi, 8psi, or12psi). Adding a boost controller to this will allow an increase in boost from this spring tension, but never a reduction. Majority of boost controllers are a bleed type system, causing the lower port on the w/g to read less boost than what is actually present in the manifold. Majority of these boost controllers will not require the use of the top port of the wastegate, in this case do NOT plug the top port of the waste gate, let it vent to atmosphere. 14. In the event that a boost controller is to be used, it is best to “T” the vacuum source from the two turbos together, then to the boost controller, then “T” from the boost controller back apart to the wastegates. This will help ensure that both wastegates are receiving the same boost reference signal. Boost Controller 15. For extremely high psi applications the top port of the wastegate can be used. Consult your boost controller manufacture for instructions on setting up and using both wastegate ports. INTERCOOLER INSTALL 16. Install the BOV’s to the intercooler, using supplied M6x1.0 hex-head bolts. (These are located in the boxes with the BOV’s). Mount the BOV’s with the horns facing down and outwards. Install the Intercooler into the car. Attach the intercooler to the radiator cradle using supplied (2) M8x1.25 bolts with washers and nuts. Align the intercooler center with the car, and mark on the cross sectional square tube the mounting locations, then drill. 17. Start assembly of the intercooler plumbing from the turbo side going to the intercooler. Start with a 45° silicone coupler to the 45° aluminum pipe. You’ll see where this contacts the inner fender liner. Using a 2” hole-saw drill a hole. 18. Next connect the long aluminum pipe with the 45° on one end using a 2” hump silicone connector. The 45° faces forward. For this to fit properly, part of the top of the inner fender will need to be trimmed. Using the same hole-saw aprox. 13” from the rear edge of the fender liner, drill a hole downward and cut the excess between the two holes, creating a valley for the pipe to merge from. This recesses the pipe up into the fender far enough to ensure the tires don’t rub. If you experience rubbing this pipe will have to be positioned up further. If you are lowered and cannot move the pipe up further, it may require flattening on the bottom edge at the apex of the tire. 19. The long pipe will now rest in this hole from the bottom side with the 45° bend facing forward and down. Next connect a 90° silicone coupler facing inward to the 90° aluminum pipe facing downward. This is one of the aluminum pipes that is symmetrical (equal length on both sides) To assist with holding long pipe in place you can drill a hole in the fender liner on each side of the turbo and insert a zip tie. 20. From here, connect a 45° coupler facing forward to the final 90° (non symmetrical) pipe into the intercooler. At the intercooler this is connected with a 2”-2 ½ “ silicone coupler. Intercooler Piping Layout MAF 21. Hold the 3.5” aluminum pipe in position going between the intercooler and throttle body, and mark where it crosses the radiator. Using a cutoff wheel carefully cut slots in the vertical section. Bend these sections over each other to allow for extra clearance. 22. From the intercooler connect the 3.5” aluminum pipe to the MAF using the supplied 3.5” silicone hump coupler. a. 97-00 Install the new IAT sensor into the aluminum pipe and connect to factory wiring. Connect the aluminum to the MAF using the 3.5” hump silicone connector and the MAF to T/B using the 3.5”-4” coupler. b. 01-04 Connect to the MAF using the 3.5”-3.75” silicone coupler, and the MAF to the T/B using the 3.5”-4” silicone coupler. 23. Once all plumbing is in place, secure using the appropriate sized t-bolt clamps. OIL LINE INSTALL 24. Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the oil temperature sensor housing (located next to the oil filter). Install the supplied oil housing extension with the new bolts. Make sure surfaces are smooth and clean, and apply a small amount of RTV sealant for a gasket. The 90° fitting should be pointed up facing rearward. 25. For ease of installation, the oil lines have been preassembled for you. The oil line facing up will go to the passenger side and the oil line facing down will go to the drivers side. Make sure to route them in a way that the line itself will not be in contact with any hot exhaust parts. 26. Route the oil lines to the top side of each turbo. Install the oil inlet adapters with the supplied M8x1.25 Allen head bolts. Attach oil lines. Make sure the oil lines are routed so they will not be touching moving parts or hot exhaust. OIL RETURN LINE INSTALL 27. Oil return lines are routed from the bottoms of the turbos to a “T” connector under the car, then from the “T” connector up past the oil filter housing and over the front sub-frame to the oil return pump. When installing the lines be sure to route them so they are not kinked in any manner, and have a predominantly vertical downward flow away from the turbos. The oil lines should “T” behind the exhaust as seen in the picture. Oil lines are secured to the bottom of the car via the rubber insulated oil line clamps. 28. Install the oil return adapters to the bottom of the turbos using supplied M8x1.25 Allen head bolts. 29. Attach the -10AN hoses to the turbo fittings and route downward. The 41” oil line goes to the passenger side, the 28” line goes to the drivers side. Connect each of these lines to the supplied -10AN T-fitting. Attach the final -10AN line (38”) to the T-fitting and route it towards the front of the car, up past the oil filter and over the cross member. Make sure this is away from moving parts (belts and sway-bar). 30. Remove the two 10mm bolts from the bottom side of the oil pan (rear most, very long bolts). Using the rubber insulated fastener clamps secure the oil return line coming from the passenger side up to the vehicle. Using two more fastener clamps secure the oil return hoses to the undercarriage using supplied self tapping screws. 31. Take care to ensure that the hose is not touching anything hot (exhaust) or moving parts (suspension and steering). 32. The TurboWerx pump will require a 90° brass elbow to be installed on the inlet side. You will notice that it does not readily screw in, but comes in contact with the heat shield. Because of this the shield must temporarily be removed for installation of the elbow. To remove the heat shield locate the 2 small Allen head screws located between the fins on the heat shield and remove them. The shield should now slide off and out of the way giving access to screw in the brass elbow. Once the elbow is in and tight make sure it is facing away from the main pump housing (as pictured) and reinstall the heat shield. 33. Mount the TurboWerx fluid transfer pump on the front right side of the aluminum sub frame. Mark the frame with the two lower holes on the pump. Drill out the holes and install the fluid transfer pump using the supplied M6x1.0 bolts, nuts and washers. 34. Connect the 3/8” MIP- -10AN fitting into the brass elbow. 35. Connect the -10AN line to the fittings installed on the oil pump. Connect the -6AN line to the top side of the oil pump (out) and route upwards toward the oil fill cap. 36. Remove the oil cap. Drill and tap the oil cap with and tap with a 1/4” NPT tap. Install the 90° -6AN fitting into the cap using Teflon tape. Install the oil return hose coming from the oil return pump to the oil cap fitting. 37. Wire in the supplied relay to the Tilton pump using an ignition source (on in start/run), in this case we tapped a fuel injector 12+ wire (if you tap this wire be sure it is the 12V+ wire, and not the injector signal wire). Make sure you use the relay, as the TurboWerx pump draws a lot of current, and could cause damage to your electrical system. For this part we are expecting general electrical knowledge on relay wiring, using crimp connectors etc. But we have supplied a basic schematic. To Ground To Battery 12V+ Not Used To Pump + To Switched Ign Source (Fuel Inj +12V) 38. Connect the wiring as shown and to the oil return pump. Connect the negative wire from the pump to a ground using supplied eyelet connector. COVERS 39. Install the front cover fascia over the radiator and intercooler area. Fit it so it is centered. Notice that there are no mounting holes in the front of it. Once the cover is centered temporarily place the bumper back on, marking the holes with where they align to the front bumper, and drill. Holes have intentionally not been placed to ensure the best fitment. When reinstalling the front bumper, the bumper goes over the cover fascia. BATTERY 40. To install the battery relocation kit, mount the battery in the rear, drill two holes (just large enough to fit the 4ga wiring) from the top down, along the edge of the compartment, such as they battery will not sit on top of them once installed. Generally the battery will fit in the rear compartment on the passengers side. Install a battery terminal to one end of the 4ga wiring, and an eyelet on the other, do this for both wires. The short wire goes between the negative terminal and the frame. The positive one is routed up to the front of the car and connected on the passengers side of the fuse box, at the positive lug. Cut the OEM battery terminal off and discard. Discard the small wire from the battery terminal to fuse box lug. The remaining large positive wire connects to the starter. Install a 4ga eyelet and terminate this at the fuse box lug (same place as positive wire from battery in trunk). For routing the wiring, it’s easiest to route it under the car, and through the passengers side rocker panel. Be sure to route it away from any hot or moving parts, and zip tie into place so it is not sagging. ***Note: If problems with the electrical system occur, check grounding wire. Paint may need to be sanded away to ensure a good clean ground. Also on rare occasion, an additional ground will need to be attached from the frame up front to the engine block for additional engine grounding. 41. Make sure the ECU and all associated wiring are secure in the battery compartment and will not come loose and fall onto the turbo. Use zip-ties if necessary. Install the battery compartment cover. Loosen the factory nut on the fender well and slide cover behind it. Carefully reach under cover and tighten nut. Install two self tapping screws on the inside drilling into the plastic battery compartment cover. 42. Install fuel injectors 43. Install the supplied filters onto the turbos. The smaller turbo is for the passenger side, as it requires less clearance. 44. Disconnect the vacuum line on the passengers side of the throttle body going to the valve cover and place a vacuum cap over the throttle side nipple (this prevents boost pressure from entering the crank case). 45. Again on the passenger side of the throttle body find the vacuum line that connects the throttle body to the crank case valley under the front side of the intake manifold and disconnect this line. The crank case side can be left open as a vent, or vented to a optional catch can system (not supplied). The throttle body side will now become the boost reference source for the turbos system. Connect this to the BOV’s, boost gauge, and any other accessories in need of a boost/vacuum reference signal (water/meth injection). It’s easiest to route a single vacuum line to the bov’s and “T” it between the two, making sure that both get proper boost/vacuum signal. Be sure to route the vacuum line and zip tie it away from all moving belts, accessories, and fans. 46. Reconnect the battery in the trunk. 47. It is recommended that the car be dyno-tuned prior to installing the fenders and front bumper, incase access to the turbos is needed. 48. Next the fenders will need to be trimmed to fit back onto the car. On the inside of the fender mark the scoop with tape as seen in the picture. Using cutoff wheel carefully cut away at the excess. Use a grinder and a sanding block to smooth and clean the edges. If you cut only on the inside, repainting will not be necessary. 49. Once it has been trimmed, check for fitment. This may take a few tries to make sure it is trimmed enough, but only cut a little at a time to ensure you don’t cut more than what is necessary. 50. Scuff and clean the inside of the fender near the scoop. Using 3M panel bonding adhesive, place a series of glue blobs on the inside of the scoop, and place a metal retaining clip into the blob. Spin the clip to ensure that the adhesive is sticking to it. Let it fully dry. When complete you should have a series of metal wire pins sticking inwardly from the fender. Place the grill mesh over the scoop and the wire tabs through the mesh. Gently form the mesh to the contour of the scoop, and bend the metal wire tabs over to secure the mesh in place 51. When done correctly it should have a factory shape and appearance with a grill mesh to conceal the turbos. 52. Once the fenders are reinstalled, it is optional (but recommended) that the fender liners be reinstalled as well, as to prevent debris and dirt building up on the turbos. In order to do this, you will have to trim the fender liners to make room for the down-pipes. Trim as necessary, leaving ¼” space between the down-pipes and liners. Part of the bottom section of the liner is what attaches the fender to the frame, try not to trim this piece off.
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