lightning bicycle limited warranty

lightning bicycle limited warranty
INTRODUCTION
This manual contains information on how to properly adjust
and operate your Lightning bicycle for maximum comfort,
safety, and performance.
The recumbent position and seat require alternate
adjustment methods. The unconventional design and
closeness of the front wheel to your feet require that new
riding skills must be acquired.
Carefully follow the instructions, and after a short
period of time, you will have the new habits needed to
ride your Lightning successfully.
CONTENTS
1.0 THE PHANTOM ASSEMBLY
2.0 ADJUSTMENTS BEFORE RIDING
3.0 LEARNING TO RIDE
3.9 SAFE RIDING
4.0 ACCESSORIES
5.0 MAINTENANCE
FIG. 1-0
1.0 THE PHANTOM ASSEMBLY
A) Remove all items from the box and unwrap. Be careful to
support the handle bars so that the cables are not kinked.
B) Install the steering column onto the tilt steering mechanism.
C) Place the tilt steering mechanism in a vertical position and
engage the locking lever.
WARNING!
Ensure the tilt mechanism locking serrations are aligned
before fully engaging the locking lever. See Fig. 2-2.
Failure to follow this step could cause clamp failure
while you are riding, resulting in a loss of control!
D) Install the rear derailleur.
E) Install the wheels in the dropouts, and check the tire pressure.
F) Connect the seat to the frame using the plastic quick release
clamps. (See Fig. 1-1).
G) Install the seat foam into the seat bottom pocket, with the
thicker foam portion toward the front.
H) Install the bottom bracket extension into the frame,
and secure it’s clamp screws
I)
Front shifter connection/ adjustment:
Rotate lever until cable is fully released and thread cable to
Derailleur. Figure 1-2 shows the cable installation for the front
derailleur.
J) Install the pedals.
Note: The left side pedal has reverse (left hand) threading.
K) Install the chain, see Figure 1-3 for proper chain routing.
L) Re-check the headset, brakes, and derailleurs for proper
adjustment and operation.
FIG. 1-1
FIG. 1-2
FIG. 1-3
2.0 ADJUSTMENTS BEFORE RIDING
2.1 CRANK ADJUSTMENT:
On Lightning Bicycles, the cranks are moved to accommodate
differences in leg length. Adjust the cranks as follows:
NOTE:
Do not apply any grease to the bottom bracket extension
tube, otherwise it might rotate under pedaling pressure.
A) Loosen the two Allen head bolts under the crank tube with a
5 mm Allen wrench.
B) Slide the cranks in or out until your legs are slightly bent at their
furthest extension. (See Fig. 2-1). It's better to have the cranks
too close when making the initial adjustment than too far away.
C) Verify the crankarms/chainrings are vertical using the
alignment lines, then tighten the two Allen head bolts.
FIG. 2-1
2.2 HANDLEBAR ADJUSTMENT:
A) Slightly loosen the stem clamp using a 5 mm Allen wrench.
B) Adjust the handlebars up or down so that there is
approximately 2 inches (for V-bars) or 1/2 inch ( for drop bars)
of clearance between your knees and the handlebars
(see Fig. 2-1).
C) Verify the handlebars are at right angles to the front wheel,
then tighten the stem clamp.
D) Slide the cable housing on the stem up or down to prevent any
tight cables during turning.
E) At this point you can adjust the handlebars forward or rearward
using the tilt mechanism, then repeat steps A) thru D) above
as needed (see Fig. 2-2).
FIG. 2-2
WARNING!
DO NOT engage the clamp locking lever beyond the
20 degree forward position. If you tilt the handlebars
forward for entry and exit, leave the lever fully released.
Also ensure the tilt mechanism locking serrations are
aligned before fully engaging the locking lever.
Failure to follow these steps could cause clamp failure
while you are riding, resulting in a loss of control!
2.3 CHAIN LENGTH ADJUSTMENT:
NOTE:
If the optional chain tensioner is install it will normally
take up any chain slack resulting from fore and aft bottom
bracket adjustments, thus this section can be skipped.
After adjusting the cranks, check and adjust the chain
length. The chain should be long enough to permit shifting onto
the large front chain wheel-large rear sprocket combination, and at
the same time, not so long that it goes slack when shifted onto
small chain wheel-middle rear sprocket combinations.
This can be accomplished by adjusting the chain length so that
the rear derailleur is in the position shown in Fig. 2-3 with the
chain on the large chain ring-large rear sprocket combination.
NOTE:
The derailleur does not normally have sufficient take-up
capacity to allow use of the small chainring-small rear
sprockets.
CAUTION:
If the chain is not long enough to shift onto the large front
chain ring-large rear sprocket combination; the rear derailleur
and the chain will break.
FIG. 2-3
3.0 RIDING
Find a straight, level road without much car traffic for learning
how to ride. DO NOT attempt any U-turns or other sharp turns
until you have mastered slow speed turning, explained in Step 3.3.
Keep your speed at 10-15 mph, as this will prevent your feet from
hitting the front wheel and is more stable than slower speeds.
Finally, look into the distance, not at the front wheel.
3.1 PEDAL TYPE:
The Phantom comes with platform pedals which make learning
to ride easy. If you install clipless pedals, follow these tips:
A) Don't engage when first learning how to ride.
B) Practice unclipping a few times before riding with clipless
pedals. It is best if you practice this while leaning against a
wall, or while someone is holding you up.
3.2 STARTING:
A) If this is your first experience with a recumbent bicycle, it is
suggested that a friend helps you balance by holding onto the
seat when starting.
B) For starting by yourself, the trick is to have one pedal in the
straight up (power) position, with one foot on this pedal, and
the other foot on the ground. Push hard against the upright
pedal to get moving, then bring your other foot up and catch
the other pedal.
3.3 SLOW SPEED TURNING:
WARNING!
During slow speed turns, the front wheel can be turned far
enough so that your feet will hit it if youare pedaling. Practice
the following carefully, and always pay attention to the front
wheel when making U-turns, turning into a driveway, etc.
A) The easiest solution is to coast through the turn, and keep your
foot on the side you are turning in the up position. For example:
for a right turn, keep your right foot up. (See Fig. 3-1). This
method requires you to have sufficient speed to coast through
the turn.
B) To make turns and apply power, have your feet as in (A) and
make short 1/3 rotation, back and forth pedal strokes. This
method must be used when you are starting out and turning at
the same time, such as a sharp right turn after stopping at a
stop sign.
Both methods take some practice to master, but it will
eventually become second nature. The interference is a problem
only at speeds below 6 mph. Above this, the wheel is not turned
enough to be a problem. Also, optional pedal extenders are
available which make this interference less of a problem.
FIG. 3-1
3.4 HANDLING AND STABILITY:
A Lightning bicycle has fair stability and responsive steering. It
is not necessary to aggressively hold onto the handlebars. A
relaxed grip is best for riding in a straight line. One hand on the
bars is adequate for relaxed cruising. As speed increases, the
stability actually improves if maximum power is not applied to the
pedals.
WARNING!
DO NOT apply excessive force to the handlebars.
There is no reason to pull extremely hard on them, as it will
not make you go any faster. Large forces repeatedly applied
to the handlebars may cause the stem to fail. If you want to
lift your butt off the seat, do it by pushing down on the seat
frame with one hand, NOT by pulling on the handlebars!
3.5 BUMPS:
For going over bumps or railroad tracks, follow these hints:
Lean forward in the seat slightly so your back is not touching. This
prevents the rear wheel impact from being transmitted to your
back. A relaxed grip on the handlebars will allow the bike to move
under you, thus transmitting less force from the bump. For some
"wheel eating" potholes, the only solution is to slow down, or avoid
them if possible. Another good solution is the optional suspension,
which can be added anytime.
3.6 STOPPING:
Before you stop, shift down to a low gear. Being in a low gear
makes it much easier to get started again. In emergencies, or just
for fun if you want, the low center of gravity normally makes it
possible to brake as hard as you want without any fear of flipping
the bike. However, be careful of applying full braking on wet or
sandy roads, as this could cause the tires to slip out.
3.7 CLIMBING HILLS:
Use a lower gear and spin! If your pedaling speed drops below
60 rpm, then your power also drops off. Pulling on the handlebars
does not help any. One trick to try on long and/or steep hills for
relief or extra power is this: Steer with one hand and push on your
knee with your other hand as you pedal. As one arm gets tired,
trade off and use the other one.
This "arm power" can add 10% more speed for short period. If
you want to do extra training in order to climb hills better, then
weight lifting (both upper and lower body), and one legged
pedaling on the flats (to develop your backstroke muscles) help
significantly
3.8 MUSCLE CONDITIONING:
A) DO NOT immediately ride your bike for long distances as it
takes some time for your muscles to become accustomed to
the recumbent position. Ride 5-10 miles on the first day, then
increase by 5-10 miles per day thereafter. Your quadriceps
and rear end muscles may be mildly sore while you are getting
used to the bike. This is normal and should disappear once the
daily miles you ride stabilize.
B) If your knees hurt constantly, this could be caused by improper
crank adjustment. Try adjusting the cranks in or out slightly
and see if the condition improves. Also, low rpm gear mashing
can cause your knees to hurt.
3.9 SAFE RIDING
A) If for some reason you fall over while moving, DO NOT PUT
YOUR FOOT DOWN! It can be drawn underneath the seat,
causing severe injury to your leg and knee. Instead, keep
your feet on the pedals, and let the seat take the impact.
B) WEAR A HELMET! If your head is worth less than $50 (the
price of a good helmet); you don't need one.
C) WET WEATHER: Your brakes do not work as good in this
condition, so allow for more stopping distance on down hills.
Also, BE CAREFUL when cornering!
D) BE CAREFUL when cornering fast on unfamiliar roads. Any
gravel in the corner may cause a slide out. Because of the low
Lightning seat position, it is possible to lean over more in a
corner than a standard bike without realizing it.
E) PLEASE OBSERVE ALL TRAFFIC LAWS. Cars like it when
you are predictable, so don't make any sudden moves, and
always signal your intentions.
F) WHEN RIDING IN HEAVY TRAFFIC, bright colored clothes
are a big help. A warning flag may also be a good idea.
G) FOR NIGHT RIDING, buy a good lighting system. NightSun
has the best lights for dark roads at Lightning speeds.
H) USE A MIRROR to see traffic behind you, this is much easier
and safer than turning around.
I)
BE CAREFUL on roads that have been repaved, leaving a lip
where the new pavement drops off onto the old pavement at
the shoulder. The small front wheel occasionally has problems
negotiating this lip.
4.0 ACCESSORIES
4.1 WATER BOTTLE:
One set of water bottle braze-ons are standard under the seat.
A second is standard on the stem extension. We recommend
using a heavy duty (6mm) aluminum cage or rib type cages.
4.2 REAR RACK:
The custom Lightning specific rack works best, other similar
racks also work with some bending of the attaching arms.
Use the aft set of threaded holes in the rear dropouts for
attaching racks and fenders.
Attach the upper rack struts to the seat stay pinch bolts
(see Fig. 4-1).
FIG. 4-1
4.3 PANNIERS
The best panniers to use are the Lightning Zero Drag type.
They give better weight distribution and do not increase drag like
other panniers. They easily mount on most rear racks. However,
any pannier that fits your rack will work.
4.4 SEAT BAG:
The best option is the Lightning seat bag. It has a large
capacity, and is easily slipped on. It also has pockets for 1 or 2
hydration bladders.
4.5 MIRROR:
For safe riding we highly recommend using either a helmet
mounted mirror or the Lightning brake lever mounted mirror as
shown below.
5.0 MAINTENANCE
5.1 THE SEAT
The seat as received on new Lightning Bicycles is fairly tight.
After an initial break-in period of riding, the seat will loosen up due
to stretching of the material. The seat back should be tightened by
taking the slack out of the string that runs along the sides.
CAUTION:
It is possible to wear a hole in the seat back, if it
becomes loose enough to contact the rear tire.
The foam padding in the bottom of the seat is easily
removable for washing the bike or any other reason.
5.1.1 SEAT ANGLE ADJUSTMENT
The angle of the seat back can also be adjusted to better suit
your riding style. We recommend the seat be kept more upright
when you are first learning how to ride, as it is easier to balance.
Later on, the seat can be reclined backward for less wind
resistance, or perhaps improved comfort. However, be aware that
visibility and controllability are reduced somewhat with the seat
reclined.
To adjust the seat back angle (ref. Fig. 1-1):
A) Slightly loosen the four plastic seat quick release clamps and
the seat stay clamp bolts.
B) Adjust the seat to the desired angle.
C) Retighten the seat stay clamp bolts and seat quick release
clamps.
After adjustment, the cranks may have to be moved slightly,
since adjusting the seat angle also moves your legs forward or
backwards. Finally, BE SURE THE SEAT MESH IS TIGHT, to
prevent the seat mesh from contacting the rear tire while riding.
5.2 THE CHAIN IDLER:
The chain idlers have sealed bearings and do not normally
require maintenance. The idler under the seat will develop a wear
pattern to match the chain after a few hundred miles. This is
normal and nothing to worry about. After about 10,000 miles or so
it might show excessive wear or make excessive noise, at that
point it should be replace. A replacement idler is available from
Lightning Cycles.
5.3 OPTIONAL CHAIN TENSIONER
Perform the following steps to remove and install the chain
tensioner. Refer to figure Fig. 5-1.
CAUTION:
The coil spring is under tension. To prevent the
spring from losing tension, hold the back plate
against the tensioner arm at all times.
REMOVAL:
A) While holding the back plate against the tensioner arm,
remove the black nut and washer.
B) While the tensioner is off the frame, temporarily re-install the
black nut and washer to keep the back plate in place.
INSTALLATION:
A) Remove the black nut and washer, then verify the small silver
spacers are down in the back plate recess.
B) Place the tensioner onto the frame mounting plate, with the roll
pin inserted into the small roll pin hole.
C) Reinstall the black nut and washer and tighten.
D) Verify the tensioner smoothly pivots. If it does not the black
nut may have to be slightly loosened until smooth operation is
achieved.
Roll Pin
Back Plate
Spacer
Tensioner
Arm
..
FIG. 5-1
5.6 PAINT
The paint on the frame is a very tough urethane powder
coating which is highly resistant to scratching. It also maintains its
luster for a long time but can be waxed with ordinary auto type
waxes if desired.
5.7 BIKE PARTS
All of the other parts are standard bicycle components, and
can be easily serviced by your local bicycle shop. The chain
should be periodically lubricated. The brakes and control cables
should be monitored and adjusted when necessary. Once a year,
the headset, bottom bracket, pedals and hubs should be checked
for smooth operation, and adjusted if needed. See Fig. 5-4 for
rear derailleur cable routing instructions.
5.8 TILT MECHANISM
The tilt mechanism lever securing nut needs to be kept tight, to
a torque of 50 to 100 in-lbs (See Fig. 2-2). Torque this nut at least
once a year to ensure it is tight.
5.9 ZZIPPER FAIRING
Lexan is an extremely tough and crack resistant material. The
Zzipper fairing will withstand a great deal of abuse, even crashes,
without breaking or cracking. However, it scratches easily. Thus,
to preserve its appearance, these steps should be followed:
A) Clean the Zzipper fairing with Windex or a mild detergent
solution and a soft rag. Never use solvents of any kinds. Tooth
paste is a good compound for smoothing out minor scratches.
B) Remove the Zzipper fairing when placing the bike on a bicycle
carrier rack.
FIG. 5-4
5.10 FORK O-RING
An O-ring is installed between the fork and steerer tube, inside
the frame (see Fig. 5-5). This O-ring slows down the steering
response of the bike. If you want quicker steering, remove the Oring. If you want even slower steering a second O-ring can be
installed. Reinstall the O-ring(s) any time the fork is removed.
Grease the O-ring and verify it is correctly positioned during reassembly.
FIG. 5.5
FOR YOUR RECORDS
FRAME S/N: ...........................................................................
BOUGHT FROM: ...................................................................
DATE OF PURCHASE: .........................................................
SERVICING:
DATE
ITEM
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LIGHTNING BICYCLE LIMITED WARRANTY
Lightning Cycle Dynamics (Lightning), a California Corporation, makes the
following limited warranty concerning Lightning bicycles and framesets:
1) WARRANTEE: This limited warranty is effective ONLY :
* To the original purchaser of the bicycle or frameset, thus it is not transferable
* If the original purchaser weighs less than 220 lbs for Small/Medium, or 250
lbs for Large/X-Large, size bicycles and framesets.
2) All parts (including suspension parts, bushings, shock units, and fasteners),
are warranted to be FREE from defects in materials and workmanship for one
year from the date of purchase. The frame and seat frame are warranted to be
FREE from defects in materials and workmanship for five years from the date
of purchase. During the limited warranty period, all original parts determined by
Lightning to be defective will be repaired or replaced, at the sole option of
Lightning, free of charge. Lightning will additionally pay during these periods
reasonable dealer labor charges arising solely due to replacement of defective
parts /frames, and ground shipping of replacement parts/frames from Lightning.
3) All claims under this limited warranty must be made through a Lightning
dealer or Lightning Cycle Dynamics during the warranty period.
4) THIS LIMITED WARRANTY ONLY APPLIES upon the bicycle being
operated under normal conditions of use, and properly maintained. This limited
warranty DOES NOT APPLY to normal wear and tear, and also DOES NOT
COVER failure due to abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper
maintenance, alteration, collision, crash, misuse, or installation of unauthorized
replacement parts. The installation of large motors, jumping, riding on severe
terrain, severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities, or any
similar activities, WILL NEGATE this limited warranty. Bending of frames,
forks, handlebars, and rims is a sign of abuse or use inconsistent with the
bicycles intended use, and IS NOT COVERED BY THIS LIMITED
WARRANTY.
5) Lightning's liability under this limited warranty shall be no greater than the
amount of the original purchase price of the bicycle or frameset, and in no event
shall Lightning be liable for personal injuries, consequential, incidental, or
special damages, nor for unauthorized transportation or incidental dealer labor.
6) Lightning does not authorize anyone, including it's authorized dealers, to
extend any other warranties, express or implied, for Lightning.
7) This limited warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have
other rights which vary from state to state.
March 2007
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