model 91 catalytic unit - New Buck Chimney Sweep

model 91 catalytic unit - New Buck Chimney Sweep
MODEL 91
CATALYTIC UNIT
Buck Stove
FIREPLACE INSERT & FREESTANDING
FEATURES
PREPARATIONS
INSTALLATION
OPERATION
MAINTENANCE
SAFETY
SAFETY NOTICE
IF THIS HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
FOR YOUR SAFETY, FOLLOW THE
INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS.
CONTACT THE AUTHORITY HAVE JURISDICTION ( SUCH AS MUNICIPAL
BUILDING DEPARTMENT, FIRE DEPARTMENT, FIRE PREVENTION BUREAU,
ect.) SHOULD BE CONSULTED BEFORE INSTALLATION TO DETERMINE THE
NEED TO OBTAIN A PERMIT. KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE USE.
TESTED AND LISTED BY:
ITS/WARNOCK HERSEY, MIDDLETON, WI
MANUFACTURED BY NEW BUCK CORPORATION - SPRUCE PINE, NC 28777
Revised: October 2008
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I
Room Heater Features ................................................................................................... 3
Important Statements .................................................................................................... 3-6
SECTION II
Masonry Insert Installation ........................................................................................... 7-11
SECTION III
Residential Freestanding Heater Installation............................................................... 12-18
SECTION IV
Wood Heater Safety .................................................................................................... 19
SECTION V
Operation ..................................................................................................................... 20-21
SECTION VI
Preventive Maintenance / Parts Replacement ............................................................. 22-25
SECTION VII
Troubleshooting .......................................................................................................... 26-27
WARRANTY ............................................................................................................. 28
Page 2
SECTION I
The New Buck Corporation room heater Model 91 Bay is one of the safest and most efficient heating systems
available when installed and operated as specified in these instructions and as stipulated on the operation and
installation labels affixed to the unit. The unit is designed to burn wood fuel only.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. Failure to follow instructions
may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
Throughout the manual, you will see this symbol.
Please make a special note of these areas.
This indicates areas of importance regarding safety.
Install and use only in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation and operating instructions. Do not connect
this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance. This unit is not designed for installation into Mobile Home.
This unit has been safety tested by ITS (Warnock-Hersey) to UL Standards 737 and 1482.
ROOM HEATER FEATURES
Before attempting to install or operate your heater, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the features and
operating controls of the unit.
OPERATING CONTROLS
WARNING: Model 91 Bay Heater was not designed for fire grates.
NOTE: “Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on hearth.”
1.
Bypass Damper: The bypass damper control is located in the top center of the heater front just under the top.
It is operated by pushing or pulling the rod. The damper is fully open when the handle is pulled out and fully
closed when it is pushed in. The damper must by OPEN before the door is opened.
2. Blower Control: The blower control (Rheostat) is located on the side of the unit. The rheostat is used to
vary the speed of the blower. It can be set at any position. It must be turned on to activate the automatic
thermostat on the stove.
3. Primary Air Controls: The primary air intake draft controls are located at the left and right bottom side of
the hearth. They are operated by moving the handle out to open (to allow air into the firebox) or in (to
control or close off) the air into the firebox. Right side primary air and air wash control (3A). Left side, (3),
also called shot gun air control, allows air to the center of the firebox of the stove.
4. Warm Air Outlets: Provides heat extraction from the top of the firebox.
5. Baffles: Directs air flow around the unit for maximum heat transfer.
6. Air Inlet: Allows cool air near the floor to be circulated through the blower and back into the warm air
chamber of the heater.
7. Door: Provides an “airtight” feature. The door allows a much higher burning efficiency than can be
obtained with an open firebox.
8. Hearth Extension: Offers protection from spilled ashes and cinders.
9. Power Cord: Provides electrical power to operate the blower.
10. Catalyst: Enables the unit to burn cleanly and efficiently.
11. Catalyst Probe: Probe is located to the right of the bypass damper rod. It is used to determine (catalyst)
temperature.
12. Automatic/Off/Manual Switch: Located at the bottom right corner of stove. In the “Manual” position, the
blower operates continuously. In the “Automatic” position, the blower is controlled by the internal
thermostat which reacts to the temperature of the air between the stove walls. (Not the same as the
temperature showing on the Catalyst Probe.)
SAFETY STANDARD COMPLIANCE
The Model 91 Bay catalytic solid fuel (wood) burning combination room heater/fireplace stove manufactured by
New Buck Corporation complies with US 1482-1994 and UL 737-1995 for residential freestanding and masonry
fireplace insert installations when constructed and installed in accordance with ITS approved documentation.
Page 3
EPA COMPLIANCE STATUS
This manual describes the installation and operation of the New Buck Corporation Model 91 Bay wood heater.
These heaters meet the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Emission limits for wood heaters sold after July
1, 1992. Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from
approximately 10,000 to 54,500 BTU/hr for the Model 91 Bay.
MODEL 91 WOOD STOVE IDENTIFICATION
1
39
41
11
4
20
32
16
15
7
5
37 & 38
10
13
21
14
40
18
33
31
8
19
3
12
3A
35
2
9
30
24
28
3a.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
26
36
6
1.
2.
3.
25
29
34
22
23
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
Bypass Damper & Brass Spring Handle
Blower Control (Rheostat)
Primary Air Control Air Wash Rod for Both
Sides
Shot Gun Air Control
Warm Air Outlets
Baffles (Interior of Stove)
Air Inlet
Door
Hearth Extension
Power Cord
Catalyst (Interior Firebox)
Catalyst Probe
Automatic / Off / Manual Switch
Brass Cap
Hinge Block
Brass Overlays
Brass Overlay Mounting Screws
Door Glass & Logo
Glass Clips
Hearth Brass
Page 4
Door Gasket
Side Glass
Leveling Screws
Firebrick
Motor
Motor Mount Bracket
Cover Door
Cover Door Screws
Shot Gun Air Box
Ash Pan
Disc Thermostat
Door Handle & Brass Spring Handle
Air Wash Screen
Glass Gasket
Cover Door Hinge
Magnet Holder
Cover Door Magnet
Door Latch
Door Latch Screw
Lower Heat Shield
Hinge Pins
8" Flue Exit
CATALYST EQUIPPED
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper
operation. It is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in
this manual or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
CATALYST WARRANTY
The combustor supplied with this heater is a set of (3) (2"x3-1/2"x6"x25" cells). Consult the catalytic combustor
warranty also supplied with this heater. All warranty claims should be addressed to:
Applied Ceramics
Customer Service Department
P.O. Box 29664
Atlanta, GA 30359
770-448-6888
See enclosed catalyst warranty for instructions. New Buck Corporation does not handle catalyst replacements.
Customer can order direct form Applied Ceramics.
PROPER FUEL SELECTION
For best results, this heater is designed to burn (dry), natural wood. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions
generally result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut
hardwoods. Green or freshly cut hardwoods (wood with high moisture content) will not product the BTU’s
needed to heat your home. The result will be low temperature reading on the catalyst probe, thus low BTU
output.
DO NOT BURN:
1) Treated Wood
3) Garbage
5) Solvents
7) Trash
2) Coal
4) Cardboard
6) Colored Paper
Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in release of toxic fumes and may
poison or render the catalytic combustor ineffective.
Burning coal, cardboard, or loose paper can produce soot, or large flakes of char or fly ash that can coat the
combustor, causing smoke spillage into the room and rendering the combustor ineffective. (Not covered under
warranty.)
ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF
The temperature in the stove and the gases entering the combustor must be raised to between 700o F to 900o F for
catalytic activity to be initiated. The temperature can be determined by the Catalyst Monitor Probe. During the
start up of a cold stove a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for about 20 minutes. This can be
achieved by starting the fire with dry kindling, paper, and small split wood. Have the Bypass Damper fully open
(pulled out). This ensures that the stove, catalyst, and fuel are all stabilized at proper operating temperatures.
Even though it is possible (and likely) to have gas temperatures reach 600o F within two to three minutes after a
fire is started, if the fire is allowed to die down immediately it may go out or the combustor may stop working.
Once the combustor starts working, heat generated in it by burning the smoke will keep it working.
ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF WHEN REFUELING
During the refueling and rekindling of a cool fire, or a fire that has burned down to the charcoal phase, operate the
stove at a medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to ensure that the catalyst reaches approximately 800o
F.
Page 5
CATALYST MONITORING
It is important to periodically monitor the operation of the catalytic combustor to ensure that it is functioning
properly, and to determine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of
heating efficiency, and an increase in creosote and emissions.
See Troubleshooting section for detailed
instructions BEFORE attempting to remove catalyst.
This catalytic heater is equipped with the means to monitor catalyst operation. Properly functioning combustors
typically maintain temperatures in excess of 1000o F. If catalyst temperatures are not in excess of 500o refer to
Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual.
CAUTION AGAINST OVER-FIRING
Do Not Over-fire This Heater.
Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in permanent damage to
the heater and to the catalytic combustor.
ASH REMOVAL
Whenever ashes build up in the firebox and when the fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess ashes.
Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help maintain a hot charcoal bed. To
remove ashes the dump is located at the left inner bottom. By lifting the dump door, place the ashes through the
dump opening. The ashes fall directly into the ash pan. The ash pan is located at the left side under the hearth
behind the cover door.
NOTE: Be sure to turn the room air blower off before removing ashes. Open cover door and slide ash pan out.
NOTE: Fueling and ash removal door (s) must remain closed when in operation.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be
placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal.
The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
NOTE: Be sure to turn room air blower back on when job is completed.
NOTE: The room heater is not to be connected to any air distribution duct.
CREOSOTE - FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapor, which combined with expelled moisture
forms creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a
result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
NOTE: SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.
Page 6
SECTION II
MASONRY INSERT INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION OPTIONS
This unit (appliance) may be installed into an all masonry fireplace, built in accordance with the Uniform Building Code
and the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 211).
NOTE: Check with local building officials for any permits required for installation of this stove and notify your insurance
company before proceeding with installation.
OPTION A. See Below
At a minimum, a starter pipe reaching from the stove flue exit to the base of the existing code approved
masonry chimney (flue-liner) and an airtight face seal.
OPTION B. See Page 8.
Direct connection: In accordance with NFPA-211-9-4.5, Connection to Masonry Fireplaces. A solid fuel-burning
appliance such as a stove or insert shall be permitted to use a masonry fireplace flue where the following conditions
are met:
Exception: Listed fireplace accessories shall be permitted to use a masonry fireplace flue.
1. There is a connector that extends from the appliance to the flue liner.
2. The cross-sectional area of the flue is no more than three times the cross-sectional area of the flue collar of the appli
ance.
3. If the appliance vents directly through the chimney wall above the smoke chamber, there shall be a noncombustible
seal below the entry point of the connector.
4. The installation shall be such that the chimney system can be inspected and cleaned.
5. Means shall be provided to prevent dilution of combustible products in the chimney flue with air from the habitable
space.
OPTION C. See Page 8.
It may be necessary to positive connect this unit to enhance the performance, if any of the following conditions exists:
1. Poor Drawing Flue
3. Double Flues
5. Stone Front Fireplace/ or damaged flue liner
4. Ash Dump
6. Chimney that does not exceed 12’
2. Oversized Flue (17” x 7)
Check with your dealer if any of the above conditions exist, before installing your stove. Proper installation is critical to
the performance of the Model 91.
Use Fireplace Kit PA FP91 for installation. An optional oversized fireplace kit is available for larger fireplaces. Check
with dealer.
SAFETY NOTICE
If this appliance is not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety, follow the installation directions.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
OPTION (A)
AIRTIGHT INSULATED CLEANOUT
STARTER PIPE
SEAL TRIM PANELS WITH INSULATION / AND OR HIGH TEMPERATURE
CAULK
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE
IT OPEN
NOTE: New Buck Corporation grants no
warranty, implied or stated, for the installation
or maintenance of your appliance, and assumes
no responsibility of any consequential damage
Page 7
OPTION (B)
OPTION (C)
NOTE: Follow installation
instruction with Positive
Connection Kit.
(Kit sold separately)
NOTE: Follow installation instruction
with Direct Connection Kit.
(Kit sold separately)
INSTALL A NON-COMBUSTIBLE
COVER PLATE TO PREVENT
WATER FROM ENTERING THE
CHIMNEY
STAINLESS
STEEL
CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR MUST
EXTEND 1’
PAST THE
BLOCK-OFF
PLATE OR
TO THE
FLUE LINER
SEAL TRIM PANELS
WITH INSULATION /
AND OR HIGH TEMPERATURE CAULK
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE
IT OPEN
BLOCK-OFF PLATE
OR DAMPER
ADAPTER
INSTALLATION (Fireplace Insert)
Minimum Clearances to Combustible Materials (in inches)
MANTEL
30"
20"
15"
20"
24"
HEARTH EXTENSION
Page 8
THE LINER MUST
BE STAINLESS
STEEL CONNECTOR OR FLEXIBLE
VENT. FOLLOW
THE LINER MANUFACTURE’S INSTRUCTIONS FOR
INSTALLATION
AND SUPPORT.
TRIM PANELS
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE IT
OPEN
8"
FLUE
LINER
AIRTIGHT
INSULATED
CLEAN-OUT
AIRTIGHT
INSULATED
CLEAN-OUT
FIGURE 1
FIREPLACE INSERT
CAP(PREVENTS
WATER FROM
ENTERING)
MINIMUM CLEARANCES:
The Model 91 Bay Fireplace Insert is intended for installation in accordance with the standard for chimneys, fireplaces,
vents, and solid-fuel burning appliances. NFPA-211 Code: NOTE-This model is not intended for installation into Zero
Clearance or pre-fabricated fireplace.
1. The hearth must be of masonry construction and must extend a minimum of 24" in front of the firebox opening and a
minimum of 8" to either side of the firebox opening.
2. Floor protector must be 3/8" minimum thickness non-combustible material or equivalent.
3. If your fireplace has wood trim above it, the wood trim musts be at least 20" above the top of the unit and may be a
maximum of 1/2" thick.
4. If your fireplace has a wood mantel, the mantel or mantel supports must be located at a height of 30" above the top
REQUIRED FIREPLACE DIMENSIONS
Minimum fireplace dimensions:
Height
Min.
Model 91 Bay
23 1/2"
Width
Min.
31 3/4"
Depth
Min.
15 1/2"
POSSIBLE TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
If you decide to install your own stove, there are several hand tools you may need to do the job. If you do not already have
them, they are readily available at most hardware stores.
Caulking gun
Large adjustable wrench (may not be needed)
Drop cloths or newspapers
Vacuum cleaner or whisk broom
Flashlight
1 tube of RTV silicone, Code 103 or 106, or high temperature rubber cement rated between 450o F- 600o F.
7/32" drill bit and drill
Socket/Rachet Set
Insulation (Provided in Trim Kit package)
INSTALLATION PREPARATION
Fireplace:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Locate furniture and other materials away from the front of the fireplace to allow free access to the fireplace.
Cover the hearth and adjacent floor areas with the drop cloths to protect from soiling or marring the surface.
Remove the existing fireplace damper plate.
Thoroughly clean the fireplace of ashes and soot.
Have your existing chimney inspected before inserting this unit. Some chimneys must be relined or replaced before
they are safe to use.
Check the chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildups of creosote or soot. Also, check for obstructions, such
as bird’s nests. If the chimney is excessively dirty, clean it, or have someone clean it professionally BEFORE installing or using the room heater.
If the fireplace has an ash dump or outside air provision, these must be sealed off with metal or tightly packed noncombustible insulation to prevent cold air from entering the fireplace chamber.
Heater:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.
Check the primary air draft controls to ensure that they slide freely.
Check the operation of the damper control to ensure it will open and close properly.
Check the Manual/Automatic Switch to ensure that motor is working. *Place switch in the “MANUAL” position.
(Plug in stove.) You cannot check the motor in the “AUTOMATIC” position, unless a heat gun is used to heat the
internal thermostat.
Page 9
POSITIONING THE HEATER
When positioning the heater, the following conditions MUST be met! (See Figure 2.)
1. The front of the damper opening must be positioned BEHIND the rear edge of the lintel to ensure proper
draft. (See Figure 2.)
2. The vertical plane of the fireplace front must fall BEHIND the side panels of the unit. (In other words, it is
possible to have the heater too far in as well as not far enough.)
3. Center the heater in the fireplace opening.
CENTER
LINE
VERTICAL PLANE
DAMPER
OPENING
LINTEL EDGE
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3 MOUNTING TRIM PANELS
POSITIONING
MOUNTING THE TRIM PANELS
After the unit is positioned, mark the mounting position of the trim panels as follows:
1.
Set the side trim panels in place, flat against the face of the fireplace. Mark down the inside edge of the
trim panel to make a vertical reference line. (See Figure 3.)
2.
Set the top (long) trim panel in place on top of the unit. The panel should be flat against the outside face
of the fireplace, and standing vertically. Mark along the lower edge of the trim panel with a pencil to make
a reference line for mounting.
3.
Slide the unit out of the fireplace far enough to work behind the trim panel reference lines.
4.
Mount the side trim panels. (See Figure 3.)
a. Position the trim panel on the reference line.
b. Drill mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets to allow for adjustment in
and out if necessary.
c. Mount the trim panel using the self-tapping screws provided.
5.
Place top panel back on reference mark. Take top trim panel mounting bracket supplied with unit. Position
bracket so it overlaps rear lip of top trim panel. Drill mounting holes in top of stove using holes in bracket as
guide. Tighten down screws.
6.
Now, follow the installation procedures in the listed direct connect or positive connect kit you are using and
Page 10
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels are properly positioned and lie flat
against the front of the fireplace. If one or more of the panels is out of position, slide the unit out and reset by
loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot.
Reinstall the top trim panel by sliding the rear lip of the top trim panel underneath the front lip of the
mounting bracket already secured to top of unit.
NOTE: Mount the top trim panel so that it sits in front of the top of the side trim panels..
Obtain the brass trim kit provided with unit and slip over the top and sides of trim panels. (Top ends of brass
may need to be trimmed to fit.)
Insure that the starter pipe or connector is properly secure in the stove flue exit, and aligned with the chimney
flue.
Mount top trim panel by drilling mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets, with top end side
of top panel overlapping side panel.
Using insulation provided, peel and stick to back of panels overlapping fireplace dimensions by 1" on each
side and top. (See Figure 3.)
Next using high heat silicone or furnace cement run heavy bead of caulking around where panels meet the
stove. (See Figure 3.)
Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels (and brass) are properly
positioned and lie flat against the front of the fireplace. If panels are out of position, slide the unit out and
reset by loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot. With bar lift stove up in front. Place
insulation across front and the surface of hearth or bottom of fireplace to make complete seal.
To check seal of panels, use candle flame and go around the entire area sealed by silicone and insulation. If
flame leans toward inside of fireplace, add additional insulation. This ensures an airtight seal.
FINAL CHECK
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Recheck the specified clearances.
Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.
Open the primary air draft; shot-gun air draft, and damper bypass, make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.
Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light paper and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws
properly through the primary drafts.
Check for smoke leaks around the door.
Open the door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates
a defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting
newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats us, a
proper draft can usually by obtained.
NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of the heater, but
with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.
If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not solve your problem,
contact your dealer for assistance. If the homeowner installed the unit himself, there generally is a charge for
dealer to service the stove and inspect the installation.
The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three
firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR THE
HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)
You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is
normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a
window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape.
Page 11
SECTION III
RESIDENTIAL FREESTANDING ROOM HEATER
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION PRECAUTION
Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as freestanding stoves when
vented into a masonry chimney that include the following:
1.
A rain cap is installed on the chimney.
2. Height of chimney is at least 15 feet high.
3. Location of chimney is interior. (Not on an outside wall)
Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than listed above. However, draft problems are
possible if a hot chimney is not maintained.
Use Leg Kit # FA FS2191 for Model 91
CAUTION: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Page 12
MODEL 91 BAY
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
The New Buck Corporation Model 91 Bay must be installed in compliance with the instructions contained in this
manual.
Clearance from combustible walls and ceilings. (Using single wall chimney connector)
The minimum lateral distance between any part of the room heater and combustible walls is shown in Figures 1 and 2.
BACK WALL
C
BA
CK
B
F
D
B G
W
AL
F
B
SIDE WALL
C
L
GCF
E
A
E
E
D
G
D
AA
FIGURE 1
MODEL 91
A
B
C
24”
23”
16” 26”
50”
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
D
E
F
G
8”
3”
16”
FIGURE 2
FLOOR PROTECTION
If a freestanding model is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed below it to
protect the floor from burning material from the stove. The pad must be 50 inches wide. NOTE: The floor must
extend 16" from door opening in front of the stove, 8" from the front side of top, and should be under the chimney
connector. Floor protector must by 3/8" in minimum thickness, non-combustible material or equivalent.
The unit must be positioned on the pad so that there is a minimum of 16" from the front of the door opening to the
front of the pad, and a minimum of 8" measured horizontally from the front side of top to the sides of the pad.
NOTE: For clearance reductions using wall protectors, refer to the NFPA-211 Code.
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
Drop Cloth
Electric Drill with 7/32" drill bit
1/2" - 9/16" combination wrench
3/8" magnetic socket chuck adapter, 3/8" wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench
Socket Set
Tape Measure
Pencil
Level
Screw Driver
Page 13
PREPARING THE STOVE FOR INSTALLATION
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.
Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly. You cannot check the motor when the switch is in the “Off” or “Automatic”
position, unless a heat gun is used to heat the internal thermostat.
Check the primary air draft controls to ensure that they operate freely.
Check the operation of the bypass damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.
To attach legs, remove any items within firebox. Spread drop cloth on the floor behind the heater. Tilt the
heater so that back is on the drop cloth. Attach legs to pre-drilled holes in bottom of heater. If using optional
pedestal, mounting holes will need to be drilled.
Reposition the heater to the upright position.
CHIMNEY
Ceiling Exits:
The Model 91 Bay is designed for connection to: 1)
Simpson Dura-Vent, 2) Security, 3) Selkirk Metal
Bestos, 4) Metal Fab, 5) Air Jet, listed as 2100o pipe and
parts.
CEILING
SUPPORT BOX
“Follow chimney and chimney connector manufacturers
instructions and local building codes for installation
through combustible walls or ceilings.” This heater can
only be installed freestanding by using one of the
following requirements: 1) must use a brand of chimney
pipe, as listed above, complying to the requirements for
Type HT chimneys in the standard code for chimneys,
Factory-Built, Residential Type and Building Heating
Appliance, UL 103 or 2) a code approved masonry
chimney with a flue liner.
CAUTION: Certain installation types require the use of
certain chimney types. Please follow these instructions
exactly.
DETERMINING
LOCATION
THE
3.
4.
OPTIONAL NBC
CAST CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
CHIMNEY
A. Ceiling Exit (Using Single Wall Pipe and UL 103
HT type chimney system listed with manufacturer in this section of manual)
1. Suspend a plumb bob from the ceiling above
the unit so that the weight is hanging in the
center of the flue exit. (A small weight on a
2.
SINGLE WALL
PIPE
FIGURE 3
string will serve as a plumb bob.) Mark the ceiling where the string is suspended to locate the center of
the chimney.
After locating the center of the hole, install the ceiling support box, chimney, flashing, and rain cap per
the chimney manufacturer’s instructions.
Connect the stove to the ceiling support box by using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel chimney
pipe. (DO NOT use galvanized pipe.) Each section should fit into the section below or into the opening
on the stove, for drip-free operation. Secure each section together by using at least three (3) sheet metal
screws or rivets.
You may secure chimney pipe to stove two (2) different ways.
a. With Optional NBC Cast Chimney Connector, See Figure 3.
b. Mounting clips attached to heater and chimney pipe, See Figure 7 on Page 16.
Page 14
CLOSE CLEARANCE INSTALLATIONS (in inches)
Close clearance installation is possible by using the following brands of black, double-wall chimney pipe. (See
Figure 4 and Figure 5 for clearances.)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Simpson Dura-Vent double wall chimney connector “Type DVL” and 8" Simpson Dura-Vent 2100o HT “Type
DP” chimney
8" Security Type DL double wall connector and 8" Security Type “ASHT” High Temp Chimney.
8" Selkirk Metal Bestos Model “DS” double wall connector-8" Selkirk Metal Bestos Model SSII type HT
Chimney System.
8" Metal Fab type “DW” double wall connector - 8" Metal Fab 2100o HT chimney.
8" Air Jet
BACK WALL
C
BA
CK
B G
B
F
D
B
SIDE WALL
C
E
A
E
E
D
G
D
AA
FIGURE 4
MODEL 91
A
B
C
D
14”
14”
12” 16”
W
AL
F
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
E
F
G
8”
8”
16”
FIGURE 5
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
Drop Cloth
Electric Drill with 3/32" drill bit
5/16" combination wrench
5/16" magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16"
wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench
Pencil
Socket Set
Level
Tape Measure
Screw Driver
1/4” Rise Per. FT.
Wall Exit into Metal Tee-Box (Using
Single Wall Pipe)
1.
Mark the plumb line on the wall directly
behind the center of the heater. (See Figure
6.)
NOTE: When using #24 ga. min. blued or black
steel pipe, maintain 18" between pipe and
ceiling.
2. Place the vertical portion of the heater pipe
and the elbow in position and project a point
onto the plumb line level with the center of
the elbow.
FIGURE 6
Page 15
L
GC F
3.
4.
5.
Measure up so there will be at
least 1/4" rise per foot of
horizontal connector pipe, maintaining clearances to the ceiling as
noted in Figure 7. This will give
you the center of the hole for the
chimney penetration.
After locating the center of the
penetration, install the tee-box
and chimney as per the chimney
manufacturer’s specifications.
Connect the chimney pipe to the
tee-box using #24 ga. minimum
blued or black steel pipe. (DO
NOT use galvanized pipe.) Each
section should fit into the section
below or into the opening on the
stove, for drip-free operation.
Secure each section together by
using at least three (3) sheet metal
screws or rivets.
1/4” Rise Per. FT.
Wall Exit Into Masonry
(Using Single Wall Pipe)
1.
Before connecting the Model 91
Bay to a masonry chimney,
determine if the masonry fireplace wall pass-through connector
FIGURE 7
thimble meets the NFPA-211 Code and local building codes and is a minimum of 18" from the ceiling. If the
connector thimble does not meet these codes, the pass-through connector must be modified.
Connectors may pass through walls or partitions constructed of combustible material if the connector is:
(a) either listed for wall pass-through or is routed through a device listed for wall pass-through and is
installed in accordance with the conditions of the listing.
(b) Selected or fabricated in accordance with the conditions and clearances as stated in NFPA 211-Code.
Any unexposed metal that is used as part of a wall pass-through system and is exposed to flue gases shall
be constructed of stainless steel or other equivalent material that will resist corrosion, softening, or
cracking from flue gases at temperatures up to 1800o F.
In addition, a connector to a masonry chimney shall extend through the wall to the inner face or liner but not
beyond, and shall be firmly cemented to masonry.
EXCEPTION: A thimble may be used to facilitate removal of the chimney connector for cleaning, in which case
the thimble shall be permanently cemented in place with high temperature cement.
2.
Once the through-the-wall thimble codes are met, simply connect the chimney pipe to the wall pass-through
connector using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel pipe as follows:
(a) Maintain 1/4" rise per foot (horizontal length) from the appliance to the chimney.
(b) Each section of pipe should fit into the section below or into the opening on the stove for drip-free
operation.
(c) Secure each section to each other using at least three (3) sheet metal screws or rivets.
Page 16
Ceiling Exit - Close Clearance
1.
2.
3.
Suspend a plumb bob from the ceiling above the
unit so that the weight is hanging in the center of
the flue exit. (A small weight on a string will
serve as a plumb bob.) Mark the ceiling where
the string is suspended to locate the center of the
chimney hole.
After locating the center of the hole, install the
ceiling support box, chimney, flashing, and rain.
Install Double Wall Connector and chimney
system per manufacturer’s written operating
instructions. See manufacturer’s list of tested
pipes.
CEILING
SUPPORT BOX
SINGLE WALL
PIPE
OPTIONAL NBC
CAST CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
(COLLAR)
CAUTION: Because of the high efficiency and
low flue gas temperature, freestanding catalytic
heaters connected to masonry chimneys with
oversized flue liners may encounter drafting problems
A positive flue liner (optional) may be necessary to
help draft. A poor drafting chimney may result in poor
performance from the Model 91. This is not a defect
of the Model 91 but a defect in the chimney. This is
not a warranty problem with the Model 91. Contact
dealer for possible solutions for chimney.
FIGURE 8
Example: The rear clearance for the Model 91 from page 13 is 18". (See Figure 1.) This clearance may be reduced
by 50% to 9" by using either of the wall protection devices mentioned below.
ALTERNATIVES FOR WALL PROTECTION
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
AIR SPACE
1"
BRICK CLEARANCE REDUCTION SYSTEM
NAIL OR
SCREW
ANCHOR
BRICK WALL
SPACED OUT I
INCH FROM
PROTECTED
SURFACE
1 INCH NON-COMBUSTIBLE SPACER SUCH AS
STACKED WASHERS, SMALL DIAMETER PIPE, TUBING
OR ELECTRICAL CONDUIT.
LEAVE I INCH
CLEARANCE FOR
AIR CIRCULATION
FLOOR
AIR CIRCULATION
MINIMUM
24 GAUGE
SHEET
METAL
DO NOT USE FASTENERS DIRECTLY BEHIND CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR OR STOVE.
BRICK WALLS MAY BE ATTACHED TO COMBUSTIBLE WALLS USING WALL TIES
IF BRICK IS USED. BE SURE FLOOR CAN WITHSTAND WEIGHT OF BRICK.
TOP VIEW
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
WOOD STOVE
MINIMUM 24 GAUGE
SHEET METAL
CLEARANCE REDUCTION STEM SPACED
OUT 1 INCH
FIGURE 9
Page 17
FLOOR PROTECTOR
NON-COMBUSTIBLE
SPACERS
Tested and Listed Wall Protector
Clearances to combustibles may be reduced if a tested and listed wall protector is installed over a combustible
surface when the following conditions exist:
1. A dead air space of 1" separates the listed and tested wall protector from the combustible surface.
2. The tested and listed wall protector extends form floor to ceiling with a 1" clearance for air circulation at both
the floor and ceiling.
3. The 1" spacers (preferably ceramic rather than metal) must be located at the corners rather than behind the
heater or the chimney connector.
Unlisted and Untested Wall Protector
Wall protectors may be constructed of masonry, 24 gauge or thicker sheet metal, or non-combustible 1/2" thick
insulation board. Conditions 2 and 3 above must be observed but the air space in condition 1 must be increased to
1 1/2".
FINAL CHECK
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Recheck the specified clearances.
Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.
Open the primary air draft; shot-gun air draft, and damper bypass. Make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.
Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light paper and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws
properly through the primary drafts.
Check for smoke leaks around the door.
Open the door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates
a defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting
newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats up, a
proper draft can usually be obtained.
NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of the heater, but
with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.
If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not solve your problem,
contact your dealer for assistance. If the homeowner installed the unit himself, there generally is a charge for
dealer to service the stove and inspect the installation.
The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three
firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR THE
HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)
You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is
normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a
window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape.
Page 18
SECTION IV
WOOD HEATER SAFETY
Certain safety hazards are inherent in any wood heater installation. You should be aware of these so that a safe
and proper installation can be made.
1.
2.
FAULTY CHIMNEY: An older masonry chimney should be thoroughly checked to be sure there are
no holes or weak spots which could allow sparks or hot gases to escape. If any of these are present, a
positive liner should be installed before heater is installed.
HEAT CONDUCTION: Placing combustible materials too close to a heater or chimney can be a fire
hazard.
By keeping these particular hazards in mind as you install and use your room heater you can ensure a safe,
reliable installation.
The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once a month during the heating season to determine if
a creosote buildup has occurred. Any buildup of soot should be removed to prevent the risk of a chimney fire.
To remove chimney or chimney connector, remove screws and/or fasteners. Remove pipe and clean with a steel
wire brush. Replace chimney or chimney connector and replace screws and/or fasteners.
CAUTION: NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar
liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in the heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the stove when it is in
use. All fluids of this type give off volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE!! Don’t take a chance with the
safety of your home and family.
WARNING: Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away from stove. Contact may cause
skin burns.
HELPFUL HINTS
CURING THE PAINT ON YOUR HEATER: During the first several firings, burn small fires to cure the paint
and to prevent damage to the finish. It is a good idea to flip the toggle switch to “Manual” position during these
first firings so the blower will run continuously. This will allow the paint to cure at a slower rate and creates a
better overall finish.
CAUTION: Never remove ashes from your heater with the blower running.
TIPS ON FIRE BURNING
GREEN WOOD vs. SEASONED WOOD-Green wood has a high moisture content, and therefore requires a
hotter ignition temperature. Seasoned wood-cut at least one year before use-allows for a quicker, prolonged burn
and more complete combustion.
SPLIT WOOD vs. ROUND WOOD-Split wood burns easier and more rapidly, whether it’s seasoned or green.
If used after starting a fire, it should be packed tightly to achieve a longer burn.
Round wood burns longer, but requires more effort to start. Inserting a round piece over a bed of red coals with
the damper and drafts open will help it catch fire. Round wood should be used to accomplish an all-night burn.
Page 19
SECTION V
OPERATION
This section of the manual is to help you get maximum efficiency and maximum smoke (particulate) reduction
from your heater. If you should experience any difficulty or have questions concerning your heater, contact your
dealer for assistance.
Manufacturer’s recommendation for peak performance and long catalyst life is to burn seasoned hardwood (wood
dried 6-12 month) and place wood from front to back position in the heater.
Build a fire for maximum efficiency. This model burns wood and extracts heat so efficiently, a large fire is not
necessary. A large fire not only wastes energy, it usually results in the home being too warm for comfort. The
following steps will serve as a guide for operating your stove.
GUIDE TO THE DIFFERENT BURNING QUALITIES OF WOOD
Type of
Wood
Apple
Ash
Beech
Birch
Cherry
Cedar
Elm
Hemlock
Hickory
Locust
Maple
Oak
Pine
Ease of
Starting
Poor
Fair
Poor
Good
Poor
Excellent
Fair
Good
Fair
Poor
Poor
Poor
Excellent
Coaling
Qualities
Excellent
Good
Good
Excellent
Excellent
Poor
Good
Low
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Poor
Amount of
Sparks
Few
Few
Few
Moderate
Few
Many
Very Few
Many
Moderate
Very Few
Few
Few
Moderate
The Main Audubon Society recently charted the heat produced by a wood fire. They noted that the heat produced
by a wood fire varies greatly with the kind of wood burned. Beech is considered the best wood for a fire. A cord of
well-seasoned Beech will produce as much heat as 169 gallons of fuel oil; Sugar Maple and Red Oak produce as
much heat as 166 gallons of fuel oil; followed by White Ash 154; American Elm 130; White Birch 124; and White
Pine 94.
Page 20
BUILDING A FIRE:
1.
Place the “Manual/Off/Automatic” switch in the “Automatic” (bottom) position for thermostat control
operation. Turn rheostat knob clockwise (it will click from “Off” position to “On”) so you can vary the speed
of motor.
2. Open the door.
3. While looking inside firebox, operate the damper bypass plate in and out observing the movement. This
should operate freely and close completely. Open the damper bypass.
4. Open the air controls on each side of stove (pull out).
5. Twist 4 or 5 pieces of non-colored newspaper in a roll and place on the floor of the firebox.
The Model 91 Bay is not designed for use with grates, andirons or other methods of supporting the fuel.
NOTE: “Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on hearth.”
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Lay several pieces of dry kindling on top of the newspaper.
Place three or four small pieces of firewood, 2-3" in diameter, on top of the kindling.
Light the newspaper, close and latch the door. Don’t leave the fire unattended at this point. The draft should
start quickly. If not, it may be necessary to preheat the chimney to get the draft started. To do this, open the
door and add newspaper to the top rear of the wood. Light or let this paper ignite and allow to burn while
holding the door slightly open. Do not leave the stove unattended with the door open! Once the draft has
started, close and lock the door. A direct connect (option) usually solves this problem. Check with your
dealer.
After embers and a coal bed have been established, load the heater with wood. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE
ROARING FIRE! Initially, build 2-3 small fires in order to cure the paint on your stove.
Within the 20 minute time frame, you can begin to add your wood. Remember—DO NOT FILL firebox
during your first 2 to 3 fires!
Once your fire is burning well, close the bypass damper completely (push in). Gradually close the primary air
controls (push in). You will have to experiment with the primary air controls to accommodate your draft. If
you close them too soon, your fire may die down too quickly and go out. Close them gradually, a little at a
time, until you can close completely.
BURN RATES
A. Low Burn Rate: Set primary air controls (both) almost closed - leave open about 1/8". Set the rheostat
for fan control between the low to medium speed. This burn rate is the most desired and most efficient,
but can only be achieved after a fire has been established and burning on its own controlled air. Close
the bypass damper (push in).
B. Medium-Low Burn Rate: Partially close primary air controls (push halfway in). Close the bypass
damper (push in). Set the rheostat for the fan control halfway between low and high.
C. Medium-High Burn Rate: Set the primary air controls almost fully open. Close the bypass damper.
Set the rheostat for the fan control between the medium position and the high position.
D. High Burn Rate: Set primary air controls wide open. Have the damper closed. Set the rheostat for the
fan control all the way on high. USE CAUTION! Close shotgun air control after 5 minutes.
E. Wood Loading: During refueling, open (pull out) the bypass damper to allow smoke in the firebox to
escape - wait a few seconds, slowly add wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Open
primary air control wide open for 2 minutes to charge the wood. After most of the wood has burned and
if you are not planning on reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open damper bypass, then the
door, and rake the wood and coals into a pile near the front center of the firebox. (Be certain wood
chunks are pulled out of the rear corners.) Close the door and the damper bypass. This step will assure
continued combustion and thorough burning of the wood.
You will have to experiment with the fire rate until you find the particular setting for heating your home.
Chimney drafts, tightness of the house, doors, windows, insulation in the house, and atmospheric conditions all
influence which setting you must have, so it may take several firings to learn the setting necessary for your
installation. Heating capacity is based on BTU output and the conditions listed above. These conditions will
affect the heating capability of your heater.
Although the catalytic stoves decrease ash residue, routine removal of excess ash is still necessary.
Page 21
SECTION VI
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE / PARTS REPLACEMENT
THE CATALYSTS
The catalysts in your stove are designed for many years of use. If after several years of use, the efficiency of the
stove decreases or if a notable amount of smoke is observed, the catalysts may need to be replaced. See the
Catalyst Warranty prior to replacement. The following points are some general guidelines from the catalyst
manufacturer.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Do not “hot fire” the stove. For many years retailers and installers have advised customers to build an extra
hot fire to burn creosote deposits in the fire system. This advice may be acceptable for non-cat stoves, but
can be death to a catalyst. Why? Because the catalyst is reducing the particulate, or creosote buildup,
therefore the need to “hot fire” is eliminated. Proper chimney cleaning procedure should be followed.
Direct Flame contact is death to a catalyst. A catalyst burns the by-products in the smoke. The gases such as
CO, HC, and O2 ignite with each other in a chemical reaction in the presence of the catalyst (while passing
through the honeycomb configuration). Direct flame inhibits this reaction by changing the chemical make-up
of the catalyst breaking down the substrate or ceramic. This problem is called flame impingement. Today’s
modern stoves are designed so that flame impingement is unlikely. However, a strong, fast draft can pull the
flame into the catalyst. Or, a hot fire, with all the air controls and/or the ash door open can literally torch the
catalyst. The remedy for the hot fire related flame is to advise customers not to “hot fire” the stove. The
customer will enjoy their catalysts longer and with better performance if these guidelines are followed. Fly
ash problems also can be reduced by controlling the draft.
The “Glow” Misconception: A catalyst can glow during certain stages of combustion. The determination
that a catalyst is not working simply because it does not glow is inaccurate. During the low burn cycle, when
the catalyst is doing the bulk of its work, it usually does not glow. Also, extremely dry wood (oak, ash, etc.)
can burn clean enough not to produce a glow in the converter. In most new stoves, you cannot see the
catalyst.
Light Off Temperature: CO conversation in the Applied Ceramics catalyst begins at a very low
temperature. Usually, a normal start up to produce a coal bed will produce more than sufficient temperatures
to begin catalytic combustion.
The catalyst is not consumed or “used up”. The nature of a catalytic reaction is defined as follows, by the
American Heritage Dictionary, Second College Edition: cat.a.lyst n “1. Chem. A substance, usually present
in small amounts relative to the reactants, that modifies and especially increases the rate of a chemical
reaction without being consumed in the process.” This means your catalyst is always there. This also means
that gases that would normally go out the flue system and pollute the environment are being burned to create
more heat from less wood.
Why does a catalyst stop working? Most catalyst that are returned are either destroyed by flame
impingement, broken due to accidents or mishandling, or have nothing wrong with them but fly ash build-up.
A catalyst can be “saturated” with by-products of wood burning such as potassium. This is chemical
saturation. The prohibitive chemical will fill in the chemical “holes” that the gases normally use for reaction.
This process of saturation can be slowed by regular maintenance of the catalyst. Saturation can take several
years since there are units in use for over five years. Burning garbage, painted woods, or large amounts of
colored paper can poison your unit. Poisoning, however, is very difficult to do. Burning colored paper
causes more of a fly ash problem than a risk of poisoning. NEVER BURN RUBBER OR PLASTIC.
Burn only seasoned dried wood. Wood should be dried for at least 12 months prior to burning. The wood
should be FREE of any moisture such as RAIN or SNOW. Wet wood creates water vapor which can drop the
temperature of the catalyst. The results can be plugging, clogging, and thermal shock to the catalyst. When a
catalyst has ceased to be effective, you will notice increased fuel usage and your chimney sweep will notice
increased creosote in your system. Before you replace the unit, review this section. If you find that your
catalyst should be replaced, follow the instructions for warranty replacement that were provided when your
unit was purchased.
Page 22
8.
Cleaning the catalyst with plain water can reduce build-up of the catalyst-retarding chemicals. Nothing but a
soft brush, low pressure air or plain water should be used to clean a catalyst. The ceramic unit is fragile in
comparison to the rest of the stove, so it should be handled with care. A soak in warm or hot (not boiling)
water for 20 minutes is ideal. Then, allow the unit to cool at room temperature and rinse under medium
pressure under a faucet. Allow the unit to thoroughly dry before reinstalling it or you will damage it. Finally,
reinstall the unit. A cleaning once every year is sufficient for most users. Clean it when you have your flue
system cleaned.
CATALYST REPLACEMENT (Off-Season Replacement Recommended)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Spread a drop cloth in front of the stove.
Open the door and clean out any ash.
Using penetrating oil, generously lubricate the eight (8) bolt threads holding the catalyst housing in place.
Allow oil to penetrate.
Using a 9/16" wrench or 9/16" socket, loosen the eight (8) nuts and remove the catalyst housing (drop down)
and place in a suitable work area. BE CAREFUL removing the 8 nuts. If you break the bolt, you will have to
drill out the bolt (difficult) and wait for your dealer to order one! You do not want this to happen during the
cold weather!
Using needle nose pliers, grasp the front edge of the stainless steel “cans” which houses the catalytic element
and pull upward. Reposition pliers to another position and pull upward. Repeat procedure until the catalyst
can be removed from the housing.
Using a small putty knife or scraper, remove any gasket that may have adhered to the catalyst housing.
Now, obtain the new catalysts and wrap the stainless steel “can” with interam gasket and tape ends together
using scotch tape or masking tape. IMPORTANT: BEFORE STARTING TO REPLACE CATALYST,
contact your dealer and order the INTERAM gasket and the CATALYST HOUSING Gasket. Gaskets not
covered under warranty. It may take your dealer several days to receive the gaskets.
Insert the new catalysts into the catalytic housing and push down until they are seated on the top of the
stainless steel wire mesh supports.
Reinstall the catalyst housing into the stove and secure in place with the bolts.
The stove is now ready for use.
DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT (Cold Heater)
To replace deteriorated gaskets, the following steps must be taken to ensure proper installation of gaskets.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Obtain the proper gaskets and silicone glue from your local dealer.
Using pliers, remove any worn and deteriorated gaskets.
Using a scraper, wire brush, and sandpaper or steel wool, clean glue and gasket residue from the door frame.
Measure and cut gaskets to length. Care should be taken not to stretch the gaskets. What you want is a full
and loose gasket weave after attachment to the framing.
5. Obtain the silicone glue and run a 3/16" bead inside the door frame.
6. Obtain the gasket (s) and place in the gasket channel areas. Use a technique which assures that the gasket is
applied in a loose like manner. DO NOT STRETCH GASKETS.
7. After gasket (s) are applied to the glue, use your finger and go over all the gasket gently pressing the gasket
to the channel. Use the same pressure against the gasket so that the final result is an evenly applied gasket.
8. Leave door open and allow at least one hour for the glue to dry.
9. Once gaskets are checked, the heater is ready for use.
10. This should be done annually. Allowing gaskets to deteriorate can cause over-firing and shorten the burn
time.
Page 23
MOTOR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
(Motor, Thermostat, Rheostat, Wiring Harness)
1.
Unplug the heater from the 115V AC outlet.
2.
To replace the motor you must first take the cover door off. Do this by removing the two screws holding it in
place.
3.
Next, you will find a wire cage protecting you from the electrical components of this unit. By looking to the
right of the ash pan, you will find the two screws that hold the wire cage in place. Remove the two screws.
You will also find a screw at the bottom right of the wire cage. Remove this screw. It will be easier to
remove the cage if you first take the knob and nut from the rheostat that is hooked to the cage. Lay the cage
aside.
4.
To remove the motor simply unhook the wire servicing the motor. Take the two screws holding the motor
bracket out.
5.
Gently slide the motor out, and while pulling it out moving the rear of the motor facing you from right to left
in a counterclockwise motion.
6.
To replace the thermostat follow steps 1 through 3 and then gently push the thermostat up out of the bracket.
7.
To rewire the motor, rheostat, and thermostat see Figures 10.
8.
To replace the motor turn the motor so that the 4"x4" air discharge opening is pointing toward the rear of the
stove. The flat part of the motor housing is turned up. With the air discharge opening pointing in the 2
o’clock position, start in toward the unit rotating the rear of the motor clockwise. The air discharge opening
of the motor housing fits in a cavity in the rear of the unit that will direct the air flow to the proper location.
Make sure the air discharge opening is located firmly in the opening. Replace motor bracket to the motor.
9.
Hook up the wiring to all three components if you have replaced or unhooked them.
10. Replace rheostat on to the screen housing. Fasten the screen housing to the vertical bar to the right of the ash
pan. Also fasten the motor bracket to the bar at the same time.
11. Replace screw at the bottom of the screen guard. Replace cover door.
12. Plug heater back into a 115V AC outlet.
Page 24
WIRING SCHEMATIC
OFF
AUTO/MAIN
SWITCH
Page 25
SECTION VII
TROUBLESHOOTING
Operation of any wood heater can create problems. While the use of a catalytic-combustor equipped stove will
substantially lessen some of these problems– such as creosote formation– other traditional wood heater problems
may remain.
The following guidelines apply to operation of all wood heaters, with problems related to catalytic heater
addressed where appropriate.
HEATER RELATED
PROBLEMS
1.
Problem
Sluggish heater Performance
2. High Fuel Consumption
1.
Possible Cause
Obstruction in chimney
1.
2.
Improperly sealed trim kit or
direct connect kit
2.
3.
Manual damper in chimney is
closed
3.
4.
4.
5.
Closing bypass or exhaust
damper too soon
Poor chimney draft
6.
Combustor is plugged
6.
5.
7. Wet or unseasoned wood being
burned
7.
1.
Inexperience in catalytic
operation
1.
2.
Improper regulation of draft or
inlet air
2.
3.
Air leaking around door frame
and/or glass
Bypass damper open
3.
4.
Page 26
4.
Solution
Check cap and chimney and
remove obstruction.
Check trim kit gasketing or
direct connect kit seal to
fireplace and gasket as necessary to seal unit. Gasket
under stove if needed. Check
seal or direct connect and
correct.
Open manual damper and wire
shut with stainless steel wire or
remove damper.
Follow New Buck instructions
for proper firing procedures
Flue may need extension.
Oversized flue may need direct
connect or positive liner.
See section in “Combustor
Related Problems”
Burn dry, seasoned wood
Operate stove with desired heat
output in mind. Do not be
overly concerned with
maintaining light-off
temperatures
Close inlet air control as much
as possible to maintain desired
heat output. Check gaskets,
reinstall fiberglass gasketing
around doors and glass as
necessary
Check door gasket. Check
adjustment of door latch.
Close bypass damper
3.
4.
Backpuffing
Smoke Rollout when Heater
Door is Opened
1.
Gusts of wind / windy day
1.
2.
Hot combustor. (Above 1400o F)
2.
1.
2.
Bypass damper is closed
Opened door too soon after
opening bypass damper
1.
2.
If flue cap not on chimney,
install one.
Increase the amount of
combustion air slowly
Open bypass damper
Open bypass damper– wait 15
-30 seconds before slowly
opening door
Install flue cap
3. Wind gusts blowing
3.
1.
Bypass is open
1.
2.
Light-off not obtained
2.
3.
Fuel charge is spend
3.
4.
Combustor coated with fly ash or
soot
Heater dampered down too much
4.
1.
Burning materials that produce a
lot of char and fly ash
1.
2.
Burning wet, pitchy wood or
burning large loads of smalldiameter wood with the
combustor in the operating
position without light-off taking
place
2.
Catalyst Peeling
1.
Extreme temperatures at
combustor surface can cause the
catalyst to peel. Over-firing and
flame impingement are primary
causes
1.
If severe, remove and replace
catalysts. See “Catalyst
Replacement” Section VI.
Avoid extreme temperatures
3. Catalyst Masking
1.
Not maintaining light-off
temperatures
1.
See Section VI and review
operating instruction.
5.
Low Catalytic Temperature
5.
5.
Once light-off temperatures
have been reached and unit is
stabilized, close bypass
Follow manufacturer’s
operating instructions
Refuel as necessary for
combustor operation
See Section VII “Preventive
Maintenance”
Ensure that proper air mixture
and draft are available for
wood pyrolysis to continue
COMBUSTOR-RELATED
PROBLEMS
1.
2.
Plugging
Page 27
Do not burn materials such as
garbage, gift wrap or
cardboard
Burn dry, seasoned wood.
Don’t place the combustor in
the operating position until
high temperatures are high
enough to initiate light-off
NEW BUCK CORPORATION (NBC)
“LIMITED WARRANTY” FOR NBC RELATED PRODUCTS
PLEASE READ THIS WARRANTY CAREFULLY
PRODUCTS COVERED
This warranty covers the new heating unit so long as it
is owned by the original purchaser, including optional
and standard accessories purchased at the same time,
subject to terms, limitations, and conditions herein set
out.
PRODUCTS NOT COVERED
This warranty does not cover the following:
Glass;
Refractory material such as refractory cement or
firebrick
Gaskets;
This Warranty will also not cover any damage and/or
failure caused by abuse or improper installation of the
Products Covered.
WARRANTY TIME PERIODS
(A) Period I
For one (1) year from the date of purchase, NBC
will replace or repair, at its option, any part defective in
materials or workmanship. The costs of parts only are
included. The customer pays any labor or transportation
charges required.
Thereafter
(B) Period II
For the period after the first year from the date of
purchase and extending for five (5) years as long as the
related product is owned by the original purchaser,
NBC will repair or replace, at its option, any part
defective in materials or workmanship, with the
exception of: electrical motors, wiring, switches, and
components; optional and standard accessories; and all
parts not permanently attached to the heating unit.
Parts not permanently attached to the heating unit are
defined as those items designed to be removed from the
unit, including those removable with common hand
tools. The cost of parts only are included. The customer
pays any labor or transportation charges required.
PROCEDURE
Should you feel that your heater is defective, you
should contact any NBC dealer for the name of your
nearest authorized heater service representative, who
will instruct you on the proper procedure, depending on
which Warranty Time Period (Period I or Period II)
applies.
If for any reason you are dissatisfied with the suggested procedures, you may contact us in writing at:
NEW BUCK CORPORATION
Customer Service Department
P. O. Box 69
Spruce Pine, NC 28777
CONDITIONS AND EXCLUSIONS
(A) Replacement of parts may be in the form of new
or fully reconditioned parts, at NBC’s option.
(B) There are no other warranties express or implied
including warranties of Merchantability, Fitness
for Purpose or Otherwise except those warranties
expressly stated herein.
(C) New Buck Corporation is not liable for indirect,
incidental, or consequential damages in
connection with the use of the product including
any cost or expense or providing substitute
equipment or service during periods of malfunction or non-use. Some states do not allow the
exclusion of incidental or consequential
damages, so the above exclusion may not apply
to you.
(D) All warranty repairs under this warranty must be
performed by an authorized Buck Stove service
representative. Repairs or attempted repairs by
anyone other than an authorized service
representative are not covered under this
warranty. In addition, these unauthorized repairs
may result in additional malfunctions, the
correction of which is not covered by warranty.
OTHER RIGHTS
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and
you may also have other rights, which vary from state
to state.
OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
The attached Owner Registration Card must be
completed in its entirety and mailed within 30 days
from the date of purchase or from the date of
installation, if installed by a factory certified installer,
to New Buck Corporation, in order for warranty
coverage to begin.
PLEASE NOTE: The Owner Registration Card must
contain the Authorized Dealer Code Number and the
Certified Installer’s number (if applicable) for
warranty coverage to begin.
Page 28
To be completed by selling distributor or dealer for customer:
OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
We are sorry, the registration card is not
available in the online version of this
manual. Please call our Customer Service
department if your NEW stove unit did not
come with a registration card or manual.
Thank you for choosing Buck Stove!
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