blb city bicycles - Brick Lane Bikes

blb city bicycles - Brick Lane Bikes
BLB CITY BICYCLES
OWNERS MANUAL
BLB CITY BICYCLES
OWNERS MANUAL
BLB CITY BICYCLES
OWNERS MANUAL
1: TERMS AND CONDITIONS
Congratulations! You are the proud
owner of a BLB bicycle! The following
pages will help you ensure you get the
most out of your new bike. Please keep
this booklet safe and refer back to it if
you need to.
The Brick Lane Bikes Bicycle that you have just acquired may be
supplied 85% assembled in box. In order to make the bicycle road
worthy a professional bike mechanic must check it and have all parts
supplied assembled according to local regulations.
We are responsible for loss or damage you suffer that is a foreseeable
result of our negligence or any defects in material or workmanship.
Loss or damage is foreseeable if it was a foreseeable result of our
negligence or if it was contemplated by you and us at the time of
delivery of the bike to you.
1: TERMS AND CONDITIONS
3
2: BEFORE RIDING
5
3: SERIAL NUMBER
6
4: ASSEMBLY CHECK LIST AND MECHANIC SIGNATURE
7
5: BIKE ANATOMY
9
6: ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
11
7: BICYCLE MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR
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8: TROUBLESHOOTING
74
9: CONDITIONS OF USE
77
10: WARRANTY
78
We do not exclude or limit in any way our liability for death or
personal injury caused by our negligence. Our liability for all other
loss or damage suffered by you is excluded to the fullest extent
permissible by law. You agree that you will have the assembly or setup of the bike carried out, or inspected and approved by a suitably
qualified professional bike mechanic.
For the avoidance of doubt we exclude our liability to you for any loss
or damage suffered by you as a result of your failure to assemble the
components in the manner set out in this manual or your failure to
have the assembly or set-up of the bike carried out, or inspected and
approved by a suitably qualified professional bike mechanic.
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2: BEFORE RIDING
Please keep below signed Declaration and Mechanic checklist safe,
as you will be required to produce it in the event of a claim.
Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then
partially disassembled for shipping. The following instructions will
enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. For
more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment
of any area please refer to the relevant sections in this manual. If you
have questions about your ability to properly assemble this bicycle,
please consult a professional bicycle mechanic before riding.
Owners declaration:
I fully understand that the Brick Lane Bikes bicycle I have just acquired
is not to be used for riding purposes until it has been fully checked by
a qualified professional bike mechanic. Ensuring that all parts including
brakes and reflectors were assembled according to local regulations.
Customer name:
Date:Location:
Signature:
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OWNERS MANUAL
3: SERIAL NUMBER
4: ASSEMBLY CHECK LIST AND MECHANIC SIGNATURE
The following bike safety check list must be completed
by a qualified professional bicycle mechanic:
Record your serial number
Each bicycle has a serial number stamped into the bottom of the
frame (see illustration below). Record this number here to keep for
future reference. This number can be helpful to reclaim your bike if
ever lost or stolen. THIS INFORMATION IS ONLY AVAILABLE ON THE BICYCLE
ITSELF. There is no record of your serial number at the store purchased
or with our company. It is your responsibility to record this information.
Pre-delivery inspection
Frame/fork checked for damage and scratches
Components inventoried for missing or incorrect components
Wheel system
Wheel nuts correctly secured
Tyre pressure checked
Check hubs for correct adjustment
Quick release levers correctly secured
Your serial number:
Drive train system
Crank arm bolts securely tightened
Chainwheel bolts secured
Chain checked and lubricated
Grease pedal axles and cranks pedal threads
Serial number location
(bicycle shown upside down)
Steering system
Headset adjusted
Headset locknut or Ahead stem secured
Check brake lever security by load-testing
Handlebar binder bolt greased and secured
Stem bolt, wedge and interior of steerer tube greased
Stem secured and minimum insertion line not showing
Load test the handlebars and stem
Serial number
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5: BIKE ANATOMY
Brake system
Pad alignment checked and secured
Cable system stress tested by pulling brake lever
Cable adjusted for easy cable guide insertion
Cable barrels adjusted correctly
Cable end caps fitted
Single speed bicycle
Names of the components referred to throughout this booklet:
1Saddle
2 Seat post
3Stem
4 Seat tube
5 Seat clamp
6 Top tube
7 Down tube
Gear system
Shifters mounted, secured and checked by load-testing
Cables pre-stressed, checked and lubricated for smooth action
Check front and read derailleur alignment
Saddle and seat post
Seat post checked for smooth installation
Seat post binder/clamp bolt threads greased and tightened
Frame seat tube greased
Saddle angle set level and ensure minimum insertion line not showing
1
8 Head tube
9Tyre
10Pedal
11Cranks
12 Brake caliper
13Fork
14Hub
2
6
7
3
15Handlebars
16Rim
17 Brake lever
18Chain
19 Brake cable
15
5
17
4
8
9
Mechanic name:
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Date:Location:
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10
Stamp and/or signature:
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8
11
19
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6: ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Geared bicycle
Names of the components referred to throughout this booklet:
1Saddle
2 Seat post
3Stem
4 Seat tube
5 Seat clamp
6 Top tube
7 Down tube
1
8 Head tube
9Tyre
10Pedal
11Cranks
12 Brake caliper
13Fork
14Hub
2
6
7
3
Preparation
It is important that you read this owner’s manual before you start
to assemble your bicycle. WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU CONSULT A
PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE MECHANIC IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS OR CONCERNS
AS TO YOUR ABILITY TO PROPERLY ASSEMBLE, REPAIR, OR MAINTAIN
YOUR BICYCLE. Remove all parts from the shipping carton. Check to
make sure no parts are loose on the bottom of the carton. Carefully
remove the front wheel which is attached to the side of the bicycle for
shipping. Carefully remove all other packing material from the bicycle.
This includes zip ties, axle caps and material protecting the frame.
15Handlebars
16Rim
17 Brake lever
18Chain
19 Brake cable
20Derailleur
15
5
17
4
8
9
13
14
12
10
20
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11
19
16
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Front Wheel
1. R
emove the nuts, washers and wheel retainers from the front wheel
axle, if necessary. If these are not on the wheel axle, they will be
included in the hardware bag.
2. Slide the wheel onto the open ends of the fork. Slip an axle retainer
onto each end of the axle, and hook the retainers into the holes in the
fork end. Loosely install the washer onto each end of the axle (serrated
end toward the retainer), then install the hex nut. (Note: there may be
a washer head nut in place of the washer and hex nut).
3. C
entre the wheel in the fork and tighten the axle nuts securely,
alternating from one side to the other.
4. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centred in the fork and does not
wobble. If the wheel is not centred, loosen the nuts and try again.
Quick release front wheel
Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick Release
(QR) mechanism. This allows easy wheel removal without the need
for tools. The mechanism uses a long bolt (called a skewer) with
an adjusting nut on one end, and a lever operating a cam-action
tensioner on the other.
With the quick release lever in the open position, insert the front wheel into
the open ends of the fork. Turn the adjusting nut so that the locking lever
is moved to the closed position with a firm action. At the halfway closed
position of the quick release lever, you should start to feel some resistance
to this motion. Do not tighten the quick release by using the quick
release lever like a wing nut. If the quick release lever is moved to the
closed position with no resistance, clamping strength is insufficient. Move
the quick release lever to the open position, tighten the quick release
adjusting nut, and return the quick release lever to the closed position.
Torque requirement: 16-20 ft lbs.
Adjusting nut
Quick release
axle (skewer)
Washer
head nut
Quick release
cam lever
Wheel axle
Wheel retainer
Hub axle
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Hub
Spring
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Correct quick release axle setting
1. T o set, turn the lever to the open position so that the curved part
faces away from the bicycle.
2. W
hile holding the lever in one hand, tighten the adjusting nut until
it stops.
3. P
ivot the lever towards the closed position. When the lever is
halfway closed, there must be firm resistance to turn it beyond
that point. If resistance is not firm, open the lever and tighten the
adjusting nut in a clockwise direction.
4. Continue to pivot the lever all the way to the closed position so that
the curved part of the lever faces the bicycle.
Kickstand
Your bike will be equipped with either a standard kickstand, rear
mount kickstand or no kickstand. Please follow the instructions below
that correspond with your bike.
1. Place the bicycle in an upright position.
2. Remove the top plate from the kickstand.
3. From the left side of the bicycle (opposite side from chainring),
place the kickstand in position beneath the two rear fork legs.
4. Place the top plate, flange down, onto the mounting bolt.
5. Replace the washer and nut onto the mounting bolt. Hold the
kickstand arm in an up position aligned with the frame stay, then
securely tighten the mounting bolt.
6. Leave the leg of the kickstand down so it will support the bicycle
during the rest of the assembly process.
Closed position
WARNING! THE KICKSTAND IS DESIGNED TO SUPPORT THE BICYCLE ONLY,
NOT THE BICYCLE AND RIDER.
Open position
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Rear mount kickstand
Your bike will be equipped with either a standard kickstand, rear
mount kickstand or no kickstand. Please follow the instructions below
that correspond with your bike.
Pedal installation
1. Apply a small amount of grease to the threads of each pedal.
Look for the letter “L” or “R” on the side or end of each pedal
spindle (see illustration). Turning the spindle clockwise by hand
(see illustration), thread the pedal marked “R” into the crank arm
on the right (drive) side of the bicycle. Make sure that you are not
“cross-threading”. which can strip the threads in the crank arm. If
the threads do not turn easily, don’t force them. Back the spindle
out and start over. Once the pedal is threaded into the crank arm,
tighten the spindle securely to the crank arm with a 15mm open
end or an adjustable wrench.
2. Turning the spindle counterclockwise by hand, thread the pedal
marked “L” into the crank arm on the left side of the bike. Make
sure that you are not “cross-threading”. which can strip the threads
in the crank arm. If the threads do not turn easily, don’t force them.
Back the spindle out and start over. Once the pedal is threaded
into the crank arm, tighten the spindle securely to the crank arm
with a 15mm open end or an adjustable wrench.
1. L ean the bike against a wall for support, so that the right side
(chainring side) is facing the wall and the left side of the bike is
facing out.
2. Remove the rear axle nut and washer from the left side rear wheel.
3. S lide the kickstand plate onto the axle, so that it is seated against
the rear dropout.
4. Slide the washer and nut back onto the axle and tighten securely.
5. L eave the leg of the kickstand down so it will support the bicycle
during the rest of the assembly process.
WARNING! THE KICKSTAND IS DESIGNED TO SUPPORT THE BICYCLE ONLY,
NOT THE BICYCLE AND RIDER.
WARNING! IMPROPERLY INSTALLED AND TIGHTENED PEDALS CAN WORK
LOOSE, DAMAGING THE BICYCLE AND CAUSING POSSIBLE SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH TO THE RIDER.
Torque Requirement 15-18 ft. lbs.
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Pedal installation
Handlebar and stem installation
Quill stem assembly
1. Loosen the stem expander bolt, if necessary, so the wedge nut is in
line with the stem body. See illustration.
2. Insert the stem into the head tube past the minimum insertion line
indicated on the stem.
WARNING! THE HANDLEBAR STEM MUST BE INSERTED INTO THE HEAD
TUBE UNTIL THE MINIMUM INSERTION LINE INDICATED ON THE STEM IS
COMPLETELY COVERED.
3. Face the handlebar stem forward directly in line with the front
wheel. Make sure the fork is in the correct position (facing forward)
before tightening the expander bolt (see illustration).
4. Tighten the expander bolt securely (turning in a clockwise direction).
Recommended torque is 20 ft lbs.
WARNING! THE ASSEMBLER IS CAUTIONED AGAINST THE DANGER OF
DAMAGING THE HANDLEBAR STEM ASSEMBLY AND POSSIBLE INJURY TO THE
RIDER IN OVERTIGHTENING THE EXPANDER BOLT AND EXPANDER WEDGE.
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Quill stem assembly
A-head stem assembly
1. Insert the stem pillar into the fork tube to the minimum insertion line
indicated on the stem pillar.
2. Tighten the 6mm stem pillar bolt to a torque of 15 ft. lbs.
Cap bolts
WARNING! THE HANDLEBAR STEM MUST BE INSERTED INTO THE HEAD
TUBE UNTIL THE MINIMUM INSERTION LINE INDICATED ON THE STEM IS
COMPLETELY COVERED.
3. Loosen the two 5mm Allen screws on the handlebar stem and slide
onto the stem pillar. Align the top of the handlebar stem with the
top of the stem pillar (not the stem cap). Face the handlebar stem
forward directly in line with the front wheel.
4. Tighten the two 5mm Allen screws on the handlebar stem to a
torque of 7 ft. lbs.
Expander bolt
Stem
Minimum insertion line
WARNING! THE ASSEMBLER IS CAUTIONED AGAINST THE DANGER OF
DAMAGING THE HANDLEBAR STEM ASSEMBLY AND POSSIBLE INJURY TO THE
RIDER IN OVERTIGHTENING THE STEM PILLAR BOLT.
Wedge nut
Head tube
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A-head stem assembly
Handlebar installation
1. Loosen the stem clamp bolts.
2. Insert the handlebar into the stem.
3. Tighten the stem clamp bolts securely.
4. Check the handlebar for tightness. If you can move it forward or
backward, the clamp bolts are not tight enough.
5. Check steering by straddling the front wheel and trying to turn the
handlebar. If you can turn the handlebar without turning the front
wheel, the stem is too loose. Align the handlebar with the front
wheel. Retighten the stem pillar bolt to a torque of 15 ft lbs.
Stem pillar bolt
Clamp bolts
Stem
Stem pillar
Minimum insertion line
Wedge nut
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Saddle and seat post assembly
1. Loosen the seat clamp nuts.
2. Insert the top portion of the seat post into the seat clamp.
Be sure the seat post is completely inserted into the seat clamp
and butted tightly against the underside of the saddle.
3. Tighten seat clamp nuts securely.
4. Insert the seat post (with seat attached) into the bike frame. Be sure
that the seat post is inserted past the minimum insertion line.
5. Tighten the seat post binder bolt securely at the desired height.
6. A
djust the angle of the saddle so that the top of the seat is parallel
to the ground or comfortable to the rider.
7. R
etighten the seat clamp nuts securely. Check for tightness by
attempting to twist the saddle. If the saddle is loose, be sure
to tighten the clamp nuts and binder bolt securely. Torque
requirement 15-20 ft. lbs.
WARNING! THE SEAT POST “MINIMUM INSERTION” / “MAXIMUM HEIGHT”
MARK SHOULD NOT BE VISIBLE WHEN THE SEAT POST IS INSERTED INTO THE
SEAT MAST OF THE BIKE. DO NOT RAISE THE SEAT POST BEYOND THIS MARK.
THE SEAT POST MAY BREAK CAUSING YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
WARNING! ALWAYS CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE SEAT POST ADJUSTING
MECHANISM IS TIGHTENED SECURELY BEFORE RIDING. RIDING WITH AN
IMPROPERLY TIGHTENED SEAT POST CAN ALLOW THE SEAT TO TURN OR
MOVE AND CAUSE THE RIDER TO LOSE CONTROL.
Saddle height
In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the best
possible pedaling efficiency, the saddle height should be set correctly
in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height should not
allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should not rock from
side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle with one pedal
at it’s lowest point, place the ball of your foot on the pedal. The correct
saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly bent in this position.
To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not over extend his or her
reach when riding. There should be a slight bend in the rider’s elbows.
Seat post
Seat post clamp
Seat post binder bolt
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Saddle and quick release (QR) seat post assembly
1. Loosen the seat clamp nuts.
2. Insert the top portion of the seat post into the seat clamp. Be sure
the seat post is completely inserted into the seat clamp and butted
tightly against the underside of the saddle.
3. Tighten seat clamp nuts securely.
4. Insert the seat post (with saddle attached) into the bike frame.
Be sure that the seat post is inserted past the Minimum Insertion
Line. Review saddle height guidelines on the previous page.
5. Tighten the tension adjusting nut by hand and move the quick
release lever to the closed position. NOTE: Turning the tension
adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the lever from rotating reduces
clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut
can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe
clamping force. You should feel considerable resistance while
moving the lever. If not, re-open and retighten the lever, then move
it to the closed position so it is in line with the top tube of the frame.
6. Adjust the angle of the seat so that the top of the seat is parallel to
the ground or comfortable to the rider.
7. R
etighten the seat clamp nuts securely. Check for tightness by
attempting to twist the seat. If the seat is loose, be sure to tighten the
clamp nuts and binder bolt securely. Torque requirement 15-20 ft. lbs.
WARNING! THE SEAT POST “MINIMUM INSERTION” / “MAXIMUM HEIGHT”
MARK SHOULD NOT BE VISIBLE WHEN THE SEAT POST IS INSERTED INTO THE
SEAT MAST OF THE BIKE. DO NOT RAISE THE SEAT POST BEYOND THIS MARK.
THE SEAT POST MAY BREAK CAUSING YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
WARNING! ALWAYS CHECK TO MAKE SURE SEAT POST ADJUSTING
MECHANISM IS TIGHTENED SECURELY BEFORE RIDING. RIDING WITH AN
IMPROPERLY TIGHTENED SEAT POST CAN ALLOW THE SEAT TO TURN OR
MOVE AND CAUSE THE RIDER TO LOSE CONTROL.
Quick release (QR)
binder bolt
Seat post
Quick release (QR)
seat post lever
Seat post
Seat post clamp
Quick release (QR)
seat post lever
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Tension
adjusting nut
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Hand brakes
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
the appropriate assembly instructions. If your bike comes equipped
with a foot brake ONLY, no brake adjustment is required. For more
information on brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to the
maintenance section of this manual.
Side pull caliper brake
Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it.
Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the
brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts
on the brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim.
Tighten the nuts securely. Pull down on the end of the brake cable
with pliers, hold taut and securely tighten the cable anchor nut. Spin
the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any point
and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides. Make
sure all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake levers
20-25 times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to tightly
secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.
NOTE: A greater force is required to activate the rear brake due to
longer cable length. It is advisable to mount the rear brake on the
side of the stronger hand. It is important to become familiar with the
use of hand brakes. When properly adjusted, hand brakes are an
efficient braking system. Keep the rim and brake shoes clean and
free from wax, lubricants and dirt at all times. Keep brakes properly
adjusted and in good working condition at all times.
WARNING! WHEN ASSEMBLING OR ADJUSTING THE BRAKES, MAKE SURE
THE CABLE ANCHOR IS TIGHT. FAILURE TO SECURELY TIGHTEN THE NUT
COULD RESULT IN BRAKE FAILURE AND PERSONAL INJURY.
Open the brake lever and place the nipple end of the short brake
cable into the lever, then close the lever. Secure the ferrule against
the lever using the cable adjusting barrel.
Cable adjusting barrel
Brake lever
Centre bolt
Nipple
Brake arm
Ferrule
Cable adjusting barrel
Cable anchor nut
Handlebar
Brake shoe
Handlebar grip
Fixing nut in back
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V-brake assembly and adjustment
If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box
and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing
will then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through
the cable lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the
noodle to fit into the lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable
and position it between both brake arms.
When the brake lever is engaged, the brake shoe should hit the
rim flush (never the tyre) with the front brake pad touching the rim
slightly before the rear. This is called “toeing-in” your brake shoe. If this
position is not achieved, adjustments to the brake shoe are required.
Loosen the brake shoe hardware and reposition the brake shoe. It
may take several shoe and cable adjustments before the required
position is accomplished.
Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt at the end of the right brake arm
and slide the cable under the retaining washer. Pull the slack out of
the cable making sure a distance of 39mm or more remains between
the end of the lead and the start of the anchor bolt. Once the cable
is secured to the brake arms, engage the brake lever several times,
checking the position of the brake shoes at the rim. The brake shoes
should be 1mm away from the rim when in a relaxed position.
Brake noodle
Anchor bolt
Brake arm
Brake shoe
Tension screw
Pivot bolt
Outer cable lead
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Tyres and tubes
After assembling your bike, it will be necessary to inflate the tyres.
Check the sidewall of the tyre for the correct tyre pressure (PSI) and
inflate tyres accordingly with a MANUAL BICYCLE PUMP. Improper
inflation is the biggest cause of tyre failure. Due to the slightly porous
nature of bicycle inner tubes, it is normal for your bike tyres to lose
pressure over time. For this reason it is critically important to maintain
the proper tyre inflation on your bike.
Tyre pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure
range. How a tyre performs under different terrain or weather
conditions depends largely on tyre pressure. Inflating the tyre to
near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling
resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work
best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low pressures, at the bottom of
the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on
smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose
surfaces such as deep, dry sand. Tyre pressure that is too low for your
weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube
by allowing the tyre to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube
between the rim and the riding surface.
1. Your bicycle has been equipped with tyres which the bike’s
manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value
for the use for which the bike was intended. The tyre size and pressure
rating are marked on the sidewall of the tyre. CAUTION: Pencil type
automotive tyre gauges and gas station air hose pressure settings can
be inaccurate and should not be relied upon for consistent, accurate
pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.
Some special high-performance tyres have unidirectional treads: their
tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the
other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tyre will have an arrow
showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional
tyres, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
WARNING! NEVER INFLATE A Tyre BEYOND THE MAXIMUM PRESSURE
MARKED ON THE Tyre’S SIDEWALL. EXCEEDING THE RECOMMENDED
MAXIMUM PRESSURE MAY BLOW THE Tyre OFF THE RIM, WHICH COULD
CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE BIKE AND INJURY TO THE RIDER AND OTHERS. THE
BEST WAY TO INFLATE A BICYCLE Tyre TO THE CORRECT PRESSURE IS WITH A
BICYCLE PUMP. GAS STATION AIR HOSES MOVE A LARGE VOLUME OF AIR
VERY RAPIDLY, AND WILL RAISE THE PRESSURE IN YOUR Tyre VERY RAPIDLY. WE
DO NOT RECOMMEND USING GAS STATION AIR HOSES.
2. The tyre valve allows air to enter the tyre’s inner tube under
pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. There are
primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and
the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting
appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle. The Schraeder is
like the valve on a car tyre, this is the type of valve stem you should
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have on your bike. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the
valve cap and push the air hose or pump fitting onto the end of
the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the
pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other
appropriate object.
Schraeder valve
Reflectors
Your bike is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel
(white) reflectors and four pedal (orange) reflectors. These are an
important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely
fitted and in good condition at all times. Periodically, inspect all
reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or
damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will
require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the
following section for instructions on all types of bicycle reflectors.
Presta valve
WARNING! REFLECTORS ARE IMPORTANT SAFETY DEVICES WHICH
ARE DESIGNED AS AN INTEGRAL PART OF YOUR BICYCLE. FEDERAL
REGULATIONS REQUIRE EVERY BICYCLE TO BE EQUIPPED WITH FRONT,
REAR, WHEEL, AND PEDAL REFLECTORS. THESE REFLECTORS ARE DESIGNED
TO PICK UP AND REFLECT STREET LIGHTS AND CAR LIGHTS IN A WAY THAT
HELPS YOU TO BE SEEN AND RECOGNISED AS A MOVING CYCLIST. CHECK
REFLECTORS AND THEIR MOUNTING BRACKETS REGULARLY TO MAKE SURE
THEY ARE CLEAN, STRAIGHT, UNBROKEN AND SECURELY MOUNTED. HAVE
YOUR DEALER REPLACE DAMAGED REFLECTORS AND STRAIGHTEN OR
TIGHTEN ANY THAT ARE BENT OR LOOSE.
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Fork mount reflectors
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the
reflector bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer
onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten
bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position.
Front reflector mount on handlebar
1. Remove the clamp screw from the reflector bracket.
2. Push open the bracket loop and slide in over the handlebar tube.
If there is a sizing insert included with the bracket, please be sure it
is inside the clamp loop before mounting.
3. Position the reflector bracket on the handlebar between the grip
and crossbar, about 5” from the end of the handlebar.
4. Tighten the clamp screw securely.
CAUTION: Be sure the reflector is vertical to the ground. If the reflector
is aimed up or down, oncoming headlights may not reflect properly
in the reflector.
CAUTION: Be sure the reflector is vertical to the ground. If the reflector
is aimed up or down, oncoming headlights may not reflect properly
in the reflector.
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Rear reflector mount on seat post
First attach the reflector to the bracket with the reflector screw, see
the top diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the
clamping reflector bracket. Place the clamping reflector bracket
around the seat post. If the clamp is too loose, insert the shim inside
the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold the reflector assembly in
place. Finally adjust the reflector assembly in place and ensure that it
is upright and facing away from the bike.
Rear reflector mount on seat stay bracket
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the
reflector bracket and then through the seat stay bridge bracket. Next,
insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt
behind the seat stay bridge bracket. Tighten bolts until snug. Finally adjust
the reflector assembly in place and ensure that it is upright and facing
away from the bike.
CAUTION: Be sure the reflector is vertical to the ground. If the reflector
is aimed up or down, oncoming headlights may not reflect properly
in the reflector.
CAUTION: Be sure the reflector is vertical to the ground. If the reflector
is aimed up or down, oncoming headlights may not reflect properly
in the reflector.
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Flip flop rear hub
If your bike is equipped with a flip flop hub, please read the
information below.
Rear cogs/sprockets
The rear cogs are attached to the rear hub with threads. Freewheel
mode requires that your bicycle have hand brakes. Fixed-gear
mode requires that a lockring is in place to prevent the cog from
unthreading when braking/slowing down with the pedals.
Your bike has been equipped with a very unique feature, a “flip flop”
or double sided hub. A flip flop hub has sprockets on either side
of the hub, there is a fixed-gear sprocket on one side and a single
freewheel on the other side.
If the rear cog unthreads from the hub, the chain will not be directly
attached to the rear hub, allowing the chain to become tangled
in the wheel, and backpedaling will not work. A loose chain, or an
inability to backpedal, could cause you to lose control and crash.
Never ride in fixed-gear mode without a properly installed and
tightened hub lockring.
When you purchase your bike the fixed-gear sprocket will be on the
right (chain) side of the bike. Most of the time you will use the fixed
gear but if you find yourself tired of the constant pedaling, simply flip
the wheel and use the freewheel.
Rear cogs/sprockets inspection
Once a month check that the rear cogs are clean, free of rust, and
properly oiled. If you hear a grinding noise or your rear cog stops
immediately after spinning the rear wheel, the rear cog may need
adjustment or replacement; take your bicycle to a qualified bicycle
mechanic for service.
There are two benefits from using the freewheel:
1. The lower gear will make it easier to climb hills.
2. The freewheel will let you coast on descents.
WARNING! IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO USE THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKES
WHEN THE FREEWHEEL IS USED.
Rear cogs/sprockets cleaning
Once a month clean the rear cogs. To clean the cassette or
rear cogs, remove the surface dirt around the cogs teeth with a
degreaser or a similar solvent, and a brush.
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Fixed-gear
The rider controls his or her speed by resisting the motion of the
pedals with their legs. This requires additional strength, skill, and
reflexes. If the rider disregards this requirement for any reason, two
things can happen: if they stiffen their legs suddenly the bicycle
may throw them over the handlebars, and if they don’t control their
speed they may run into something. Do not attempt to ride your
fixed-gear bicycle without hand brakes until you have mastered the
fixed-gear technique and learned the reflexes necessary to control
the bicycle. Even after you have mastered this skill, do not ride a
fixed-gear bicycle on public roads or paths unless your bicycle has
hand-operated caliper brakes – riding without brakes is only suitable
for a velodrome or special bicycle track. A pedal retention system
(toe-clips and straps or clipless/SPD) is also highly recommended.
How to flip the wheel
1. Remove the axle nuts from the rear axle.
2. Slide the wheel forward so that the axle is free of the frame
dropouts, and slip the chain off of the rear sprocket.
3. Flip the wheel around and slide the chain onto the new sprocket.
4. Slide the wheel back into the frame dropouts, until the axle is in the
proper location and the chain is tight.
5. Attach the axle nuts and tighten securely.
Pedal/toe-overlap
If the bicycle is in fixed-gear ‘mode’, when riding slowly do not pedal
if the handlebar is turned. The bicycle may use a short-wheelbase
design, with the front wheel close to the pedals. It may be possible
at very slow speeds when the handlebar is turned for your foot or
toe-clip to contact the front wheel. At normal riding speeds the
handlebar does not turn enough for this to occur.
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Shifting gears
If your bike is a speeded bike, please read the information below to
familiarize yourself with the basics of shifting gears. Your multi-speed
bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal
gear hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a
combination of the two.
What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front derailleur is the
opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the
instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur
below). For example, you can select a gear which will make pedaling
easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain
down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear
“steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is
called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight
is to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centre line of the
bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving
the chain out or away from the centre line of the bike is for speed and
is called an upshift. Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle
derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be moving forward
and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are
pedaling forward.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing
mechanism will have:
• A rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• A rear derailleur
• Usually a front derailleur
• One or two shifters
• One, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• A chain
CAUTION: Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal
backward immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam
the chain and cause damage to the bicycle.
A brief note about shifting gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist
grips, triggers, combination shift/brake controls, push-buttons, and so on.
If you are not comfortable shifting gears, ask your local bike mechanic
to explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show
you how they work. The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing.
A downshift is a shift to a “lower” or “slower” gear, one which is easier to
pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear.
Shifting the rear derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the
rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear sprocket to
another. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher
gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling
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effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the
pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using
them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter distance
with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller
sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a downshift.
Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results
in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to move the chain from one
sprocket to another, the rider must be pedaling forward.
you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical
adjustment. See your local bike mechanic for help.
WARNING! Never shift a derailleur to the largest or the smallest
sprocket if the derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may
be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.
WARNING! Do not force the shift levers. Shift only when pedaling
forward and without strong force. Do not backpedal. Backpedaling
and shifting while not pedaling can damage the sprockets and
stretch the cable wire.
Shifting the front derailleur
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the
chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain
onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting
to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth
shift to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of
adjustment. Take the bike to your bike mechanic to have it adjusted.
Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front gears is for the
steepest hills; the smallest rear and largest front combination is for the
greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,
find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of ability (a gear
which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let
you start from a stop without wobbling) and experiment with upshifting
and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At
first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other
traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the
need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If
Hills
Speed
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2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing
mechanism will consist of:
• A 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an infinitely variable internal
gear position
• One, or sometimes two shifters
• One or two control cables
• One front sprocket called a chainring
• A drive chain
At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or
other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate
the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too
steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be
mechanical adjustment. See your local bike mechanic for help.
What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a
smooth shift to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is
out of adjustment. Take the bike to your local bike mechanic to
have it adjusted.
Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of
moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear.
After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice,
ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to
complete the shift.
Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically
largest gear depending on the number of speeds of your hub, is for
the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a
harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a
harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift.
It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting
gear” for the conditions.
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7: BICYCLE MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR
Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure a longer life
for your bike and a safer ride for you.
Schedule 1: Lubrication
Every time you ride your bike, its condition changes. The more
you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be required. We
recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks.
The following schedules will assist you in knowing what tasks need to be
performed and how often. If you have any doubts about your abilities
to accomplish these tasks, we recommend you take your bike to a
professional bicycle mechanic periodically to have them done.
FREQUENCY
COMPONENT
LUBRICANT
HOW TO LUBRICATE
WEEKLY
CHAIN
DERAILLEUR WHEELS
DERAILLEURS
BRAKE CALIPERS
BRAKE LEVERS
CHAIN LUBE OR LIGHT OIL
CHAIN LUBE OR LIGHT OIL
OIL
OIL
OIL
BRUSH ON OR SQUIRT
BRUSH ON OR SQUIRT
OIL CAN
3 DROPS FROM OIL CAN
2 DROPS FROM OIL CAN
MONTHLY
SHIFT LEVERS
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
DISASSEMBLE
EVERY SIX MONTHS
FREEWHEEL
BRAKE CABLES
OIL
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
2 SQUIRTS FROM OIL CAN
DISASSEMBLE
YEARLY
BOTTOM BRACKET
PEDALS
DERAILLEUR CABLES
WHEEL BEARINGS
HEADSET
SEAT PILLAR
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
LITHIUM BASED GREASE
BICYCLE MECHANIC
DISASSEMBLE
DISASSEMBLE
BICYCLE MECHANIC
BICYCLE MECHANIC
DISASSEMBLE
Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with use in
wet or dusty conditions. Do not over lubricate – remove excess
lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate
your chain (WD-40™)
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Schedule 2: Service checklist
Tools required for maintenance
• Open ended wrench or ring wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm,
13mm, 14mm, 15mm
•O
pen end or pedal wrench 15mm
•A
llen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm
•A
djustable wrench
• S tandard flat head screwdriver
• S tandard Phillips head screwdriver
• S tandard slip joint pliers
• T yre pump
• T ube repair kit
• T yre levers
FREQUENCY
TASK
BEFORE EVERY RIDE
CHECK WHEEL AND PEDAL TIGHTNESS
CHECK TYRE PRESSURE
CHECK BRAKE OPERATION
CHECK WHEELS FOR LOOSE SPOKES
MAKE SURE ALL FASTENERS ARE TIGHTENED SECURELY
AFTER EVERY RIDE
QUICK WIPE DOWN WITH DAMP CLOTH
WEEKLY
LUBRICATION AS PER SCHEDULE 1
MONTHLY
LUBRICATION AS PER SCHEDULE 1
CHECK DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT
CHECK BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
CHECK BRAKE AND GEAR CABLE ADJUSTMENT
CHECK TYRE WEAR AND PRESSURE
CHECK WHEELS ARE TRUE AND SPOKES TIGHT
CHECK HUB, HEAD SET AND CRANK BEARINGS FOR LOOSENESS
CHECK PEDALS ARE TIGHT
CHECK HANDLEBARS ARE TIGHT
CHECK SEAT AND SEAT POST ARE TIGHT AND COMFORTABLY ADJUSTED
CHECK FRAME AND FORK FOR TRUENESS
CHECK ALL NUTS AND BOLTS ARE TIGHT
EVERY SIX MONTHS
LUBRICATION AS PER SCHEDULE 1
CHECK ALL POINTS AS PER MONTHLY SERVICE
CHECK AND REPLACE BRAKE PADS, IF REQUIRED
CHECK CHAIN FOR EXCESS PLAY OR WEAR
YEARLY
LUBRICATION AS PER SCHEDULE 1
Travel Tools
We suggest you take the following items with you when going on a
long bike ride:
• Spare tube
• Patch kit
• Pump
• Tyre levers
• Multi-tool
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WHEELS AND TYRES
Loose hub bearings
Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to
side. If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride
the bicycle. Adjustment is required.
Wheel Inspection
It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly
maintaining your bicycle’s wheels will help braking performance and
stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:
Axle nuts
Check that these are tight before each ride.
Dirty or greasy rims
These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or
greasy materials. When cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy
water, rinse and air dry. Don’t ride while they’re wet. When lubricating
your bicycle, don’t get oil on the rim braking surfaces.
Quick release
Check that these are set to the closed position and are properly
tensioned before each ride. Maintain the closed position and the
correct adjustment. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.
Wheels not straight
Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked
or out of true. If wheels are not straight, they will need to be adjusted.
This is quite difficult and is best left to a professional bicycle mechanic.
Broken or loose spokes
Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or
damaged. Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly
an accident if not corrected. Again, spoke repairs are best handled
by a mechanic.
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Tyre inspection
Tyres must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability.
Check the following areas:
Valves
Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt.
A slow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can lead to a flat tyre, and
possibly a dangerous situation.
Inflation
Ensure tyres are inflated to the pressure indicated on the sidewall of the
tyre. Improper inflation is the biggest cause of tyre failure. Due to the
slightly porous nature of bicycle inner tubes, it is normal for your tyres
to lose pressure over time. For this reason, it is critically important to
maintain the proper tyre inflation on your bike.
Recommended tyre pressures
The recommended pressure moulded on the sidewall of your bicycle
tyres should match the following chart. Use this as a general guide.
BMX
MTB
Road Touring
Road Racing
Hybrid/Crossbike
Caution: Use a hand or foot pump to inflate tyres. NEVER inflate tyres
with an air compressor at a gas station. This can cause the tubes to
over inflate and blowout.
35-50 p.s.i.
40-65 p.s.i.
70-90 p.s.i.
110-125 p.s.i.
60-100 p.s.i.
Bead seating
When inflating or refitting the tyre, make sure that the bead is properly
seated in the rim.
Tread
Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots,
and that there are no cuts or other damage.
Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tyres should be replaced.
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How to fix a flat tyre
If you need to repair a tyre, follow these steps:
• Before the tyre is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim
to make sure the tyre can sit squarely in position.
• Fit the rest of the tyre, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your
thumbs. Note: Avoid using tyre levers as these can easily puncture
the tube or damage the tyre.
• Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tyre
bead at any point.
• Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tyre begins to take
shape, and check that the tyre bead is evenly seated all the way
around the rim. When properly seated, fully inflate the tyre to the
pressure marked on the sidewall.
• Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes
and quick release levers are properly adjusted.
• Remove the wheel from the bicycle.
• Deflate the tyre completely via the valve. Loosen the tyre bead by
pushing it inward all the way around.
• Press one side of the tyre bead up over the edge of the rim. Note: Use
tyre levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may damage the rim.
• Remove the tube, leaving the tyre on the rim.
• Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit or replace the tube.
Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size stated on
the tyre sidewall and that the valve is the correct type for your bicycle.
• Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tyre to locate the
possible cause and mark the location on the tyre.
• Remove the tyre completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and
remove if located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there
are no protruding spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the
rim tape which covers the spoke ends.
• Remount one side of the tyre onto the rim.
• Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.
• Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube
into the tyre. Note: Do not let it twist.
• Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tyre by pushing
the edge toward the centre of the rim. Start on either side of the
valve and work around the rim.
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HUBS AND HEADSET
Adjustment
Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the
reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger
tight. Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and tighten the lock
nut using a suitable wrench.
Hub bearing adjustment
When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require
adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.
• Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.
• To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on one
side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same side
with bicycle cone wrench or flat, thin open end wrench.
• Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.
• Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.
• Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.
Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur.
WARNING! ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THE HEADSET IS PROPERLY ADJUSTED
AND THAT THE HEADSET LOCKNUT IS FULLY TIGHTENED BEFORE RIDING.
WARNING! OVER TIGHTENING THE STEM BOLT OR HEADSET ASSEMBLY MAY
CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE BICYCLE AND/OR INJURY TO THE RIDER.
Headset inspection
The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month. This
is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the frame, and
if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident. While standing
over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground, apply the
front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you detect
any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment. Check that the
headset is not over tight by slowly rotating the fork to the right and left. If
the fork tends to stick or bind at any point, the bearings are too tight.
Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see a
qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.
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CABLES AND CABLE HOUSING
Lubrication
The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with 2-3
drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth operation
and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along their en tyre
length, after removing them from their casings, at least every six months.
Always grease new cables before fitting.
Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on the
bicycle. The first indication that your cables and housing need to be
replaced is an increased amount of pressure needed to operate the
brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there are no kinks or frays
in the cables and housing. Check that the brake cables are correctly
routed and not wrapped around the stem or frame in a manner that
prevents smooth operation or hampers control of the bicycle. Also
check that the housing is seated properly into each cable stop of the
bicycle. It is recommended that the cables and housing are replaced
at least every riding season to prolong the life of your bike.
Adjustment – sidepull calipers
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting barrel,
usually located at the upper cable arm.
Caution: The brake cable adjusting barrels are for minor adjustments
only. For major adjustments see the appropriate section in the manual
for the type of brakes on your bicycle.
WARNING! DO NOT RIDE A BICYCLE THAT IS NOT OPERATING PROPERLY.
To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the locknut
and turn the adjuster. Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm
from the rim. When correct, retighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot be
set close enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to adjust the
cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way in, squeeze the
pads against the rim, undo the cable anchor bolt and pull the cable
through with pliers. Retighten the cable anchor bolt and apply full force to
the brake lever to test, then fine tune using the barrel adjuster. If one pad
is closer to the rim than the other, loosen the fixing nut at the back of the
brake, apply the brake to hold it centred, and retighten the fixing nut.
WARNING! ALWAYS CHECK THE BRAKE CABLE ROUTING TO ENSURE
SMOOTH AND FREE APPLICATION OF THE BRAKES. CABLES THAT ARE
KINKED, FRAYED OR OTHERWISE DAMAGED, OR CABLES THAT ARE
WRAPPED AROUND THE STEM OR FRAME MAY AFFECT BRAKING POWER
OR CAUSE UNINTENDED SUDDEN STOPS AND LOSS OF CONTROL.
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WARNING! Ensure the brake fixing nut is secured tightly. Failure to do this
may cause the brake assembly to dislodge from the fork/frame.
DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS
The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift
levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which must function
correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different
types of derailleur systems but all operate using similar principles. Your
new bicycle may be fitted with a standard ‘friction’ type system where
you will need to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with
an ‘index’ system (e.g. SIS) which links each different gear position
to a positive click mechanism in the shifter, and makes shifting very
simple and precise.
Brake lever
Brake lever housing
Lock nut
Cable adjusting barrel
Inspection
The operation of the derailleur system should be checked at least
every month. Check the operation of the rear derailleur first, then the
front. The rear derailleur should shift the chain cleanly from one cog
to the next without hesitation. On Index System equipped bicycles,
each notched position in the shifter must equate to a new gear
position. After shifting, the rear derailleur should not rub on the chain.
The derailleur should never cause the chain to fall off the inner or
outer freewheel cogs. The front derailleur should also shift the chain
cleanly and without hesitation between each chainring. When the
chain has been positioned onto a new chainring, it should not rub
on the front derailleur. The chain should not fall off a chainring at
anytime. Derailleur control cables are a critical component that must
be well maintained for accurate shifting performance. Check them
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for any sign of rust, fraying, kinks, broken strands, and any damage to
the cable housing. If you find any problems, the cables may need
replacing before you ride.
6. Some shifters may have an adjusting barrel. Use the adjusting
barrel to fine tune the ejectments of the chain location. Turn the
adjusting barrel clockwise will move the derailleur outboard – away
from the frame, while turning it clockwise will direct the chain
inboard - towards the frame.
Adjustment – front derailleur
1. S hift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift the
front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the front
derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain
on the smallest chainwheel.
2. M
ake sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer
chainwheel on the crankset. There must be a 3-5mm gap
between the bottom of the derailleur cage and the top of the
outer chainwheel teeth to ensure the derailleur will clear the
chainwheel when shifting.
3. A
djust the low limit screw so the chain is centred in the middle of
derailleur cage. Pull all slack out of the cable by pulling it taut, then
reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
4. S hift the front shifter into the largest gear and pedal the bike so
the chain jumps to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not
shift onto the largest chainwheel, you will need to turn the High
limit screw counter-clockwise until the chain moves to the largest
chainwheel. If the chain falls into the pedals, the High limit screw
has been turned too far. You will need to readjust the High screw
clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until the chain no longer falls off.
5. S hift through each gear ensuring all are achieved quietly and
without hesitation.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired
positioning.
Cable fixing bolt
Low adjusting screw
High adjusting screw
Chainguide clearance
of 3-5mm
Outer chainguide
Inner chainguide
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Lubrication
All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be
lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any
excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting
cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease
every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.
4. Shift the chain onto the largest sprocket; adjust the low limit screw so
the chain and the largest cog are lined up vertically. If you are unable
to get the chain to the largest cog, turning the Low limit screw counterclockwise will enable the chain to move towards the wheel.
5. Shift through the gears ensuring each gear is achieved quietly and
without hesitation.
Adjustment – rear derailleur
The Low limit screw determines how far the rear derailleur will travel
toward the wheel of the bicycle, while the High limit screw determines
how far the cage will travel toward the frame.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
NOTE: Some bicycles may be equipped with a rear derailleur
mechanism that works in REVERSE to the directions above.
1. S hift the rear shifter to the largest number indicated, disconnect the
rear derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain
on the smallest sprocket.
2. Adjust the High limit screw so the chain and the smallest sprocket are
lined up vertically. Remove any slack in the cable by pulling it taut, then
re-connect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
3. S ome derailleurs have an adjusting barrel (see drawing). Use the
adjusting barrel to fine tune the adjustment of the chain location.
Turning the adjusting barrel clockwise will move the derailleur
outboard – away from the wheel – while turning it clockwise will
direct the chain inboard – towards the wheel.
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PEDALS
Lubrication and adjustment
Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the internal
bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject a little oil onto
the inside bearings, and this should be done every six months. If the pedal
is the type that can be fully disassembled, then the bearings should be
removed, cleaned and greased every six to twelve months. Because of
the wide variety of pedal types and their internal complexity, disassembly
procedures are beyond the scope of this manual and further assistance
should be sought from a professional bicycle mechanic.
Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and
each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals can
be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet correctly
positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well as downward
pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps requires practice to
acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.
Inspection
Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the
following areas:
Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread
and are not interchangeable. Never force a pedal into the incorrect
crank arm. Check for the right (R) and left (L) letters on each pedal and
crank arm. Match the appropriate pedal to each crank (right to right and
left to left) for assembly. Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and
begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed all
the way in, securely tighten using a 15mm narrow open-ended wrench
so that the shoulder of the pedal spindle is securely tightened against the
crank arm. If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must
be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting. If replacing
the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread
is compatible with the cranks on your bicycle.
• Check that the pedals are tightened securely against the crank
arm. If pedals are allowed to become loose, they will not only be
dangerous but will also cause irreparable damage to the cranks.
•C
heck that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the pedals
up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by hand. If
you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings then
adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.
• Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and
securely fitted.
WARNING! NEVER RIDE WITH LOOSE PEDALS. ALWAYS WEAR SHOES.
Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a
bicycle crank.
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special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length.
We recommend that you go to a local bicycle mechanic to
replace or change the length of your chain.
CHAIN
Inspection
The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in
order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if
it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that
there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.
FREEWHEEL
Inspection
Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well lubricated.
If the chain has become worn and needs replacing, then it is likely
that the freewheel will also have become worn and should also be
replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and rotate it with your
hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the freewheel stops suddenly
after spinning it, it may need adjustment or replacement. Such action
is beyond the scope of this manual and you should consult a local
bike mechanic.
Lubrication
The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or
after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions. Take care to wipe off
excess oil, and not to get oil on the tyres or rim braking surfaces.
Adjustment and replacement
On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions
the chain. To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub
braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:
1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted)
and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to tighten, in
the frame.
2. W
hen correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately
10mm of vertical movement when checked in the centre between
the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Centre the wheel in the frame
and re-tighten the axle nuts after any adjustment. Chains require a
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8: TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
GEAR SHIFTS NOT
WORKING PROPERLY
• DERAILLEUR CABLES STICKING/STRETCHED/
DAMAGED
• FRONT OR REAR DERAILLEUR NOT ADJUSTED
PROPERLY
• INDEXED SHIFTING NOT ADJUSTED PROPERLY
• LUBRICATE/TIGHTEN/REPLACE
CABLES
• ADJUST DERAILLEURS
• ADJUST INDEXING
FREEWHEEL DOES
NOT ROTATE
• FREEWHEEL INTERNAL PAWL PINS ARE JAMMED
BRAKES NOT
WORKING
EFFECTIVELY
• EXCESSIVELY WORN/CHIPPED CHAINRING OR
FREEWHEEL SPROCKET TEETH
• CHAIN WORN/STRETCHED
• STIFF LINK IN CHAIN
• NON COMPATIBLE CHAIN/CHAINRING/FREEWHEEL
• REPLACE CHAINRING, SPROCKETS
AND CHAIN
• REPLACE CHAIN
• LUBRICATE OR REPLACE LINK
• SEEK ADVICE AT A BICYCLE SHOP
• BRAKE BLOCKS WORN DOWN
• BRAKE BLOCKS/RIM GREASY, WET OR DIRTY
• BRAKE CABLES ARE BINDING/STRETCHED/
DAMAGED
• BRAKE LEVERS ARE BINDING
• BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
• LUBRICATE. IF PROBLEM PERSISTS,
REPLACE FREEWHEEL
• REPLACE BRAKE BLOCKS
• CLEAN BLOCKS AND RIM
• CLEAN/ADJUST/REPLACE CABLES
• ADJUST BRAKE LEVERS
• CENTRE BRAKES
CHAIN JUMPING OFF
FREEWHEEL
SPROCKET OR
CHAINRING
• CHAINRING OUT OF TRUE
• CHAINRING LOOSE
• CHAINRING TEETH BENT OR BROKEN
• REAR OR FRONT DERAILLEUR SIDE-TO-SIDE TRAVEL
OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
• RE-TRUE IF POSSIBLE, OR REPLACE
• TIGHTEN MOUNTING BOLTS
• REPAIR OR REPLACE CHAINRING/SET
• ADJUST DERAILLEUR TRAVEL
WHEN APPLYING
THE BRAKES THEY
SQUEAL/SQUEAK
• BRAKE BLOCKS WORN DOWN
• BRAKE BLOCK TOE-IN INCORRECT
• BRAKE BLOCKS/RIM DIRTY OR WET
• BRAKE ARMS LOOSE
• REPLACE BLOCKS
• CORRECT BLOCK TOE-IN
• CLEAN BLOCKS AND RIM
• TIGHTEN MOUNTING BOLTS
KNOCKING OR
SHUDDERING WHEN
APPLYING BRAKES
CONSTANT CLICKING
NOISES WHEN
PEDALING
• STIFF CHAIN LINK
• LOOSE PEDAL AXLE/BEARINGS
• LOOSE BOTTOM BRACKET AXLE/BEARINGS
• BENT BOTTOM BRACKET OR PEDAL AXLE
• LOOSE CRANKSET
• LUBRICATE CHAIN / ADJUST
CHAIN LINK
• ADJUST BEARINGS/AXLE NUT
• ADJUST BOTTOM BRACKET
• REPLACE BOTTOM BRACKET AXLE
OR PEDALS
• TIGHTEN CRANK BOLTS
• BULGE IN THE RIM OR RIM OUT OF TRUE
• BRAKE MOUNTING BOLTS LOOSE
• BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
• FORK LOOSE IN HEAD TUBE
• TRUE WHEEL OR TAKE TO A BIKE
SHOP FOR REPAIR
• TIGHTEN BOLTS
• CENTRE BRAKES AND/OR ADJUST
BRAKE BLOCK TOE-IN
WOBBLING WHEEL
• PEDAL BEARINGS TOO TIGHT
• BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS TOO TIGHT
• CHAIN FOULING DERAILLEURS
• DERAILLEUR JOCKEY WHEELS DIRTY/BINDING
• ADJUST BEARINGS
• ADJUST BEARINGS
• ADJUST CHAIN LINE
• CLEAN AND LUBRICATE
JOCKEY WHEELS
• AXLE BROKEN
• WHEEL OUT OF TRUE
• HUB COMES LOOSE
• HEADSET BINDING
• HUB BEARINGS COLLAPSED
• QR MECHANISM LOOSE
• TIGHTEN HEADSET
• REPLACE AXLE
• TRUE WHEEL
• ADJUST HUB BEARINGS
• ADJUST HEADSET
• REPLACE BEARINGS
• ADJUST QR MECHANISM
SLIPPING CHAIN
GRINDING NOISE
WHEN PEDALING
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9: CONDITIONS OF USE
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
STEERING NOT
ACCURATE
• WHEELS NOT ALIGNED IN FRAME
• HEADSET LOOSE OR BINDING
• FRONT FORKS OR FRAME BENT
• STEM WEDGE BOLT NOT TIGHT
• ALIGN WHEELS CORRECTLY
• ADJUST/TIGHTEN HEADSET
• TAKE BIKE TO A BIKE SHOP FOR
POSSIBLE FRAME REALIGNMENT
FREQUENT
PUNCTURES
• INNER TUBE OLD OR FAULTY
• TYRE TREAD/CASING WORN
• TYRE UNSUITED TO RIM
• TYRE NOT CHECKED AFTER PREVIOUS PUNCTURE
• TYRE PRESSURE TOO LOW
• SPOKE PROTRUDING INTO RIM
• REPLACE INNER TUBE
• REPLACE TYRE
• REPLACE WITH CORRECT TYRE
• REMOVE SHARP OBJECT
EMBEDDED IN TYRE
• CORRECT TYRE PRESSURE
• FILE DOWN SPOKE
Riding a bicycle in a manner other than its intended use can cause the
bicycle to fatigue or fail, and can void any warranty. Bicycles, or their
parts, can be broken or damaged by riding in a manner more stressful
than the intended use of the bicycle. If the bicycle is damaged, you
could lose control and fall.
Do not ride beyond the design limits of the bicycle. If you are unsure of
the limits of the bicycle, please consult a qualified bicycle mechanic.
Riding conditions
Your Brick Lane Bikes bicycle is designed for riding on paved surfaces
or smooth gravel roads where the tyres do not lose ground contact.
Before riding fast or in more difficult conditions, learn the function
and performance of all the mechanisms of your bicycle by riding
at slower speeds in a flat, empty space such as an empty carpark.
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10: WARRANTY
•U
sed in any competitive sport.
•U
sed for stunt riding, jumping, aerobatics or similar activity.
• Installed with a motor or modified in any other way.
•R
idden by more than one person at a time.
•R
ented or used for commercial purposes.
•U
sed in a manner contrary to the instructions in this Owners Manual.
This Warranty extends only to the original retail purchaser, who
must produce proof of purchase in order to validate any claim.
This warranty is not transferable to anyone else. In order to validate
your warranty it is necessary to have your bicycle assembled and/
or checked by a professional bike mechanic.
What does this Warranty cover?
This Limited Warranty covers all parts of the bicycle to be free of
defects in workmanship and materials.
Brick Lane Bikes will not be liable for incidental or consequential loss or
damage, due directly or indirectly from use of this product.
What must you do to keep the Warranty in effect?
This Warranty is effective only if:
• The bicycle is completely and correctly assembled and/or checked
by a professional bike mechanic.
• The bicycle is used under normal conditions for its intended
purpose, by a person that properly fits and is capable of controlling
the bicycle.
• The bicycle receives all necessary maintenance and adjustments.
For how long does this Warranty last?
The frame is warranted for the usable life of the bicycle. Brick Lane Bikes
bikes will replace the frame at no charge, should it fail in any weld point
when the cycle has been used in a normal manner, and determined by
our inspection. Brick Lane Bikes will also replace the bicycle fork if it should
fail at any weld point. You must receive prior authorisation from Brick Lane
Bikes Customer Service, before returning any product or parts. All other
components are warranted against defects for six months from the date
of purchase when properly assembled and used in a normal manner.
What is not covered by this Warranty?
This warranty does not include labour and transportation charges. The
bicycle is designed for general transportation and recreational use only.
This Warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, paint, rust, normal
maintenance items, personal injury, or any damage, failure, or loss that
is caused by accident, improper assembly, maintenance, adjustment,
storage, or use of the bicycle. This Warranty will be void if the bicycle is ever:
What will Brick Lane Bikes do?
We will replace, without charge to you, any frame, fork, or
component found to be defective by Brick Lane Bikes. Consumer
must pay all labour and transportation charges connected with the
repair or warranty work.
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79
BRICK LANE BIKES
118 Bethnal Green Road
London E2 6DG
T: +44 (0)20 7033 9053
[email protected]
bricklanebikes.co.uk
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