Garrett Grand Master Hunter, Green Machine Metal Detector User guide
Below you will find brief information for Metal Detector Grand Master Hunter, Metal Detector Green Machine. This guide discusses common metal detector problems and how to fix them. It also includes tips on how to use your detector effectively and how to keep your detector in good condition.
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You Can AVOID Detector Problems INTRODUCTION Modern metal detectors are precision electronic instruments that have been specifically designed with many new components that can help point treasure hunters to valuable targets while eliminating specific items of metallic “trash.” Of course, the preceding paragraph as well as the remainder of this Garrett Guide pertain only to QUALITY metal detectors, such as those designed and manufactured by Garrett Electronics and other respected manufacturers. Quality must be engineered into a detector … then built into it at the factory. No amount of expertise in the technique of its operator can transform a poorly designed detector into a quality instrument for finding treasure! Any quality detector is built to withstand rugged treatment in the field. It is a piece of outdoor equipment, designed to help you find treasure anywhere and under almost any conditions. You should always remember, however that your detector is a precise electronic instrument and handle it with as much care as possible at all times. By all means, use it to the fullest, but only as it was intended. Treat it as you would any piece of precision electronic equipment and always protect it from mist, rain or blowing sand. Take time to clean it after each treasure hunting expedition and try to keep it as clean as possible, especially when not in use. If you will spend just a minimum amount of time caring for your detector on a regular basis, you can AVOID many of the problems presented in this Garrett Guide. Still, some problems or difficulties occur to everyone. While suggesting how you can avoid some of them, this handbook will also discuss how you can deal effectively with most of these situations. This Garrett Guide is designed to answer three questions for owners and operators of electronic metal detectors: -What difficulties have others experienced? -How can I avoid or easily overcome them? -What field repairs can I successfully make? Owner’s Manual Before discussing individual areas of potential problems, a universal bit of advice on the following subject must be given: Study your Owner’s Manual. The successful treasure hunter never takes any detector into the field until first carefully studying all literature supplied with it by the manufacturer. The following “Owner’s Manual Test” is one that should be applied to any detector, regardless of manufacturer: Exactly what does the Owner’s Manual tell you about that particular detector? Does it tell you how to use that detector? Does it answer your questions? Or, does it contain merely statistics and diagrams? (You don’t buy a detector so that you can repair it; you buy it to hunt!) Is the Owner’s Manual pocket-sized or in some format suitable for taking into the field with you, or is it designed for a desk drawer? In other words, is the Owner’s Manual designed to be used or to be filed and forgotten? Before you buy a detector, ask to see the Owner’s Manual that accompanies it. You may be surprised! BATTERIES Batteries are the major source of detector problems! There is no way that I can over emphasize the above statement. Our technicians at the Garrett factory are continually amazed at the number of detectors sent to us for repair when all they need is a new set of batteries! So, whenever you find your detector inoperable…whenever it will not respond properly… whenever it is just plain “broke”…check your batteries. Without a doubt, weak or worn-out batteries or batteries that have jarred loose are the single, major cause of detector break-down. I don’t intend to suggest that new batteries will always cure your detector’s problems, but batteries many times are at least one source of the problem whenever stops working. Always carry a fresh set of batteries with you whenever you are hunting. Even though your detector’s meter or tone indicator reports that you batteries are satisfactory, test the detector with fresh batteries any time it fails. Whenever you change batteries, make certain the new ones are inserted properly and test satisfactorily. Regularly check your detector’s battery and power system. Inspect terminals for corrosion and tightness. Look for wires that might have been pinched when they were pulled out earlier for changing batteries. These pinched wires can set up a problem that leads to failure later in the field. If your detector’s rechargeable battery compartment (or any part of the instrument, for that matter) is sealed at the factory, never try to open it. You may ruin your detector; at best, you’ll void your warranty. Four types of batteries are in general use in modern electronic metal detectors: Carbon zinc batteries cost the least and deliver current for the shortest period of service. They operate most efficiently at fahrenheit temperatures from about 32 (freezing) to just over 100 degrees. They are more prone to leak than any other type of battery. Heavy duty (zinc chloride) batteries are generally more expensive than carbon zinc, but will give longer service. They are more prone to leak than alkaline or NiCad batteries. Alkaline (alkaline manganese) batteries cost more than carbon zinc and heavy duty types but they generally provide current for considerably longer periods of time. Furthermore, they last longer in storage, are less susceptible to leakage and perform better in extreme temperatures. Their use is probably cheaper in the long run than carbon zinc or heavy duty types. NiCad (nickel cadmium) rechargeable batteries are more expensive than the other types because they are designed to be recharged easily. (Some manufacturers claim that they can be recharged on thousand times.) Maximum life and best performance can be achieved if they are used often and recharged immediately at room temperature. Always remember that NiCad batteries will generally “take a set” if repeatedly used the same length of time. For example, if you repeatedly use your NiCad batteries for just one hour before recharging them, they will “take a set” of one hour, and that is the maximum length of time they will ever deliver current. For this reason you should occasionally let your NiCad batteries run down completely before recharging. In fact, you will extend the life of NiCad batteries if you will completely discharge and restore full charge to NiCad batteries at least once every three months. NiCad batteries will generally power a circuit only 40 to 50% as long as carbon zinc batteries. NiCads will power it from eight to ten hours. Since NiCad operating voltage is less than that of the other types, they register at a lower level on meters and lights designed to check batteries on detectors. GROUND BALANCE This metal detector feature is probably the one of most importance today for treasure hunters. Ground balance is an area of considerable concern-and some difficulty- to users of metal detectors…at least, if we are to measure by the volume of calls received at the factory. And, our dealers tell us that their customers also appear to have problems. While I can understand why ground balance should concern so many hobbyists, I can’t help but be a little amused. For, you see, in just a few years ground balance will be of absolutely no concern to operators of new detectors. The instruments now being designed will provide precise ground balance automatically and instantly, no matter what type of terrain or material is below the searchcoil. The hobbyist need not even consider it. At Garrett we have already made great strides in this effort with our first Grand Master. I can also tell you truthfully that progress since production of the first Grand Masters in 1988 has been truly phenomenal! Yet, I believe that ground balance, whether performed automatically or manually, will always be one of the most important features of a metal detector. Many would argue the importance of depth, and some might opt for discrimination. The simple fact remains, however, that without precise ground balanceperformed either automatically or manually-treasure hunting, as we know it today would not be possible in most soils. Why not? Because most soils contain just too darned much mineralization. Beginning treasure hunters, accustomed to the satisfactory automatic ground balance now available on many modern detectors may take this feature for granted. Please don’t! Some of the old-timers are still in awe at the ease with which today’s automatic detectors ground balance themselves. These veterans will assure you that ground balance is very important, and as you progress in the hobby, you will soon agree. In fact, there will be many times when precise ground balance will be demanded if you are to achieve optimum results. Learn how to ground balance your particular detector. It will probably be as important as anything you ever do after you turn on the instrument and set the audio. The following instructions will apply to Garrett detectors with manual ground balancing capabilities and to most other instrument as well, but you are urged to read the Owner’s Manual for your detector and to read especially carefully the section concerning ground balance. Now, let’s review ground balancing a detector in the field! Begin by holding the detector with the searchcoil away from any metal and about tow or three feet above the ground. If your instrument offers both manual and automatic ground balancing, activate the appropriate controls for automatic ground balance. Now, lower the searchcoil to operating height. Ideally, the automatic ground balance will have proved effective and the audio signal will remain the same, indicating that your detector is properly ground balanced. If the audio signal grows or fades to any degree, you will require manual ground balancing. This procedure, of course, differs from instrument to instrument. Basically, however, if the audio signal grows louder, turn down the ground balance control dial or press the button on your manual ground balance controls marked minus (-) several times. Lift your searchcoil again and lower it to operating height. If the sound level now decreases, you have made too great a negative adjustment. It will be necessary for you to press the touchpad marked plus (+) a few times or turn up your control dial. Remember that with the dial on a Garrett or other quality detector you are dealing with a 10-turn control for precise adjustment. Don’t be afraid to turn it several times! Repeat these procedures until the audio does not change or changes only slightly when the searchcoil is lowered to operating height. When searching extremely mineralized ground, we recommend that you operate the searchcoil two inches or more above the ground. You will not lose depth, but will actually detect deeper because ground mineral influence is greatly reduced. DISCRIMINATION You can minimize digging and still not miss valuable targets by using discrimination properly. It’s sometimes difficult for those of us who have been hunting with metal detectors for a quartercentury or more to accept the ease and precise nature of modern discrimination circuits. We remember when any discrimination was considered “too much,” and many veterans still urge you to “dig all targets.” Yet, I must admit that many of these same old-timers can be found dialing in “just a little” discrimination to permit them to miss some of the trash that always seems to be present in the soil. The Grand Master Hunter and many other of the modern detectors feature two basic modes of operation-Discriminate and ALL Metal. In the Discriminate mode the operator can utilize discrimination controls to be designate the type metal targets that are desired. In the All Metal mode, of course, all targets are audio-detected. But remember this one every important point: In both modes the target ID meter continues to identify ALL detected targets. Several Garrett detectors, as well as those of other manufacturers, feature dual discrimination controls. Such controls offer multiple selectivity and the ability to reject and accept targets in both the ferrous-iron, or course-and non-ferrous ranges. The two controls split the full range of discrimination between ferrous and non-ferrous. Detection of iron objects such as nails, some foil, iron bottlecaps and small pieces of junk is controlled by one knob. The other control governs discrimination of such nonferrous items as aluminum pulltabs and aluminum screwtops. Each of the two controls operates independently of the other. The setting of one has no effect whatsoever on the other. If you wish to detect all ferrous materials, rotate the ferrous control of your detector to zero (fully counter clockwise on Garrett detectors). As you advance the control back to the right to higher numbers, you will reject more and more ferrous materials. The control operates cumulatively; that is, if you have it set at bottlecap rejection, most nails and some foil will be rejected along with bottlecaps. We urge that you advance this control. NO FARTHER CLOCKWISE than necessary to eliminate the troublesome ferrous junk material in the ground you are searching. Operate your non-ferrous materials will be rejected. To eliminate, say, pulltabs, rotate the control clockwise to the manufacturer’s suggested setting for them. Keep in mind, however, that there seem to be as many different kind of pulltabs as there are canning companies. Some few pulltabs, especially those that are bent or broken, seem to be acceptable to any detector at any setting. Set your controls for those you are finding just in the area where you are hunting. Here’s how to set those dual discrimination controls – or that single discrimination controlprecisely; Collect examples of that junk you want to reject-a nail, bottlecap, pulltab and, perhaps, small pieces of iron trash. Place your detector on a non-0metallic, preferably wooden, surface with the searchcoil at least three feet away from all metal. Make certain you are wearing no rings or jewelry on your hands or arms that could be detected. Rotate both (or only one, if your instrument is so designed) control knobs fully counterclockwise to their lowest settings. Turn the detector on and listen for the tone telling you it is ready to operate. Adjust the audio control for threshold sound. Pass the iron bottlecap across the bottom of your searchcoil about two inches away from it. Your detector will probably make a signal. Rotate the ferrous control to the approximate bottlecap reject position or the setting suggested by your manufacturer, and pass the cap across the searchcoil’s bottom again. You should hear nothing more than, perhaps, a slight blip. You may be able to rotate the control counterclockwise back to a lower number and still not detect the bottlecap. Practice so that you can set your control as far to the left as possible because you always want to use the lowest setting that is required. Using the same technique, adjust the non-ferrous control just far enough clockwise that you do not detect the aluminum pulltab. This should be approximately the manufacturer’s suggest setting point, which should probably prove to be your optimum pulltab setting, with the settings necessary for other style pulltabs being both above and below this one determined point. Again, let us stress that you should rotate these controls no higher than necessary to reject the junk items in the ground where you are searching. Dual discrimination controls such as those on Garrett detectors offer a greater dynamic adjustment range than single controls. You have more resolution which allows you to set the controls precisely to reject specific junk targets. A most important feature is that you can reject most aluminum pulltabs while accepting the majority of gold and silver rings. When searching for rings on a pulltab-infested area such as a beach, set your non-ferrous control no farther clockwise than necessary to eliminate most of the pulltabs. Rings with a higher conductivity and, especially, mass than pulltabs will be accepted. Remember, however, that some rings will fall into the lower, or ferrous, range. Thus, dual discrimination lets you select rings that register both “above” and “below” pulltab rejection. So, don’t advance either control any farther clockwise than absolutely necessary. There is another important reason for setting your discrimination controls conservatively. When a modern detector locates a junk target that you have asked it to discriminate against, it cancels out this junk target with a negative audio response that you normally cannot even hear. As you know, however, good targets generate a positive response, which you love to hear. If both positive and negative targets are beneath your searchcoil simultaneously, the two responses tend to cancel one another, and you may miss a good find. Of course, the situation is rarely that simple. Depth of targets, their metallic content, size and many other factors must be considered. So, simply remember this; never use more discrimination than you absolutely need. PINPOINTING well. Electronic pinpointing can hasten your recovery of targets and make it far more pleasurable as Most veteran treasure hunters pride themselves in their ability to pinpoint targets using only the detector’s normal search modes. Modern instruments make pinpointing so much easier that we old timers should swallow our pride and take advantage of the electronic assistance available to us. Who knows? The time we save might let us recover that “big one” that’s always just around the corner. Of course, you should check the Owner’s Manual of your detector for proper use of its pinpointing function. But, a button or trigger somewhere on the detector will usually activate pinpointing circuitry. After you have detected a target, move the searchcoil off to the side, press and HOLD the Pinpoint touchpad (or switch) and scan your target area again. You will notice that signals have probably grown sharper to aid you in more precise pinpointing. Here’s a tip for the ultimate in target pinpointing. Once you have determined the surface location where you believe the target to be buried, place your searchcoil lightly on the ground above it and activate the pinpoint control. Continue holding this control and slide the searchcoil back and forth over the target at the same operating height. You will notice very slight blips when the target is directly beneath the center of your searchcoil. If you can’t notice these blips at first, perhaps you have elevated the searchcoil from its level when you first selected the Pinpoint mode. Try the procedure again a few times. Maintain constant searchcoil height and you’ll be amazed at your precise electronic pinpointing ability. Warning: this technique requires PRACTICE…but practice pays off! METERS Understanding your detector’s meter will make you more knowledgeable and vastly increase the pleasure you can derive from the hobby. Meters, of course, vary from detector to detector. Some are simple, and some are complex. Some are far more effective and useful than others. The five-scale target identification meter on Garrett’s new Grand Master Hunter is one of the finest in the industry. In discussing meters, therefore, I will use the meter on this new detector to illustrate effective use of meters. At the same time, I will be trying to answer any question you might have concerning the meter on your detector. The purpose of this section in the Guide is also to offer some guidance concerning what you should expect from a meter generally. Reading up from the bottom of the Grand Master Hunter’s meter, its five scales report Battery Condition, Coin Depth, Metal Identification, Target Identification and Comparative Mineral Density through linear readings. The scale at the bottom concerns battery condition with NiCads reported in one section, and all others in a higher range. Batteries are checked each time the detector is turned on or any time the ON touchpad is pressed. When the meter swings into the white/yellow range, or white section only for NiCads, batteries are satisfactory. The meter scale above batteries reports coin depth in inches, calibrated for a standard (8 ½-inch) searchcoil. Other size searchcoils result in slight variations. Also, objects considerably smaller than coins will read deeper than their true depth. Next scale above is the identification range. Three classes of metal conductivity-iron, gold and silver-can generally be read very accurately. Keep in mind, however, that there are countless numbers of alloys that combine these and other metals. Readings on this scale will depend largely upon which metals are predominant in the alloys represented by detected targets. The next scale upward, target identification includes such words as foil, bottlecap, nickel, pulltab and penny. Below penny you will see the letters ZN for zinc and CU for copper to differentiate between the two kinds of pennies. Most coins will read accurately regardless of how they are lying in the ground. Targets not shown on this scale will be identified according to metal content. Of course, large objects like aluminum cans will read high upon the scale since aluminum is a very good conductor. Whenever the target is quite deep or very small, the meter will either not respond or will move up only slightly into the extreme left range, which is marked “Out of Target ID Range.” We suggest that such a target always be dug since it could be a coin buried very deeply. At the top of the meter on the Grand Master is a linear scale marked zero to 100. This roughly measures the mineral content of the ground over which the detector is scanning, but it also has several other uses. Detector Care Unless you take care of your detector you can’t benefit fully from all the quality built into it. Quality detectors are truly “macho” machines. But, don’t overdo it. Never forget that your detector is a sensitive electronic instrument. True, it is designed and manufactured to withstand rugged outdoor use, but you should always handle it as carefully as possible. Try to avoid temperature extremes as much as possible, such as storing the detector in an automobile trunk during hot summer months or outdoors in sub-freezing weather. For periods of storage longer than approximately one month, remove the batteries from the detector. Some hobbyists always remove batteries whenever the detector is not in use. Before submerging ANY PART of your detector in water for ANY REASON, make certain that it is designed so that it cannot be damaged by submersion in water. If you are uncertain, question your dealer; call the manufacturer, if necessary. All Garrett searchcoils (and most of those of other quality manufacturers) submersible to the cable connector. Unless specifically noted, however, the control housings must always be protected from mist, rain or blowing surf. Oh, that’s not to say that a drop or two (or, even three) of water or salt spray will damage a Garrett detector. Ours are made tough. But, once again-don’t overdo it! Remember that fresh water will probably ruin the electronic components of any detector and salt water certainly will! Protect your control housing at all times. Never place a metal detector or searchcoil in a heated oven for drying. Normal temperature is sufficient. Keep your detector clean. Always wipe the housing after use and wash the coil when necessary. Protect your instrument from dust and sand as much as possible. There will be times, especially after beach hunting, when your detector needs special cleaning. When it gets this dirty, you can follow these instructions: Completely disassemble the detector stem and flush it with fresh water. A soapy solution can be used to aid removal of stubborn materials. Lubricants are not recommended under any circumstances unless they are positively non-sticky and will not attract dust particles or grit. The searchcoil can be cleaned with a garden hose. Never let water get into the cable connector. Protect the cable from sharp blows at all times and be careful from sharp blows at all times and be careful to avoid kinking it. Wipe the control housing with a damp cloth. Open any portals and battery doors and check the interior. Clean out foreign material such as sand or leaves. Never use forced air to clean a detector. Air that is blown into a detector control housing can force dust and other debris to become lodged in electrical controls and cause them to fail. Never use spray cleaners or lubricants on the printed circuit board or controls. Such materials leave harmful residues. Never us e any petroleum products on or in your detector. When using your detector, inspect all exposed connectors daily. Each time you change the batteries, inspect all battery and clip connections. Any contamination and corrosion can usually be removed with a pencil eraser. Be careful, however, not to short the terminals of the battery with the metal casing of the eraser. Any spring clips that appear to have been forced open should be closed, using only the pressure of your fingers. Visually inspect all detector components during maintenance and cleaning operations. FIELD MAINTENANCE to think. Most detector “failures” can be attributed to batteries that refuse to work or operators who refuse You may be surprised at how many areas there are in which you can determine the reason for your detector’s problem. You can even remedy some of these problems; for others, you can devise “field expedients” that will let you continue hunting temporarily. Of course, if any of these problems continue to occur, you should contact your dealer or the manufacturer immediately. Basis Tips-Make sure you insert new batteries correctly and t hat they test satisfactorily. Regularly give your detector a thorough visual examination. Check battery terminals for tightness. Carefully examine the detector by looking through any doors and portals and observe every component for damage. Look for pinched wires. When panels are replaced in changing batteries, wires can be pinched. Often, there is no immediate problem, but the potential exists for a failure in the field. Searchcoil/Speaker Contamination-foreign items such as dirt, black magnetic sand, small metal particles or other matter can work into a searchcoil cover or speaker to cause erratic sounds. These sounds are annoying and may cause you to think your detector’s circuitry is faulty. You can easily clean your searchcoil cover. If magnetic particles are sticking to the speaker cone, hold the detector in such a position to let the particles fall out. Test you detector by activating it. Sometimes, the vibration of the speaker cone will loosen particles that have become magnetically attached to it. A small magnet can also be used to pull out sticky particles. Cable Connector Inspection-Erratic sounds can result when your cable is slightly twisted at the point where it enters the cable connector clamp. To check for this problem remove the connector cable clamp screws, remove the clamp and visually inspect the wiring. Rotate the wire slightly to test for broken connections. If you have some knowledge of electronics or soldering, you can repair these immediately with a soldering iron. A s soon as possible, however, let a reputable technician check your emergency repairs. Incidentally, some detector connectors are factory molded, which virtually eliminates broken connections. Testing Searchcoils/Cables-Erratic operations or complete absence of audio can be the fault of the searchcoil and/or the cable. With your detector turned on gently twist the searchcoil back and forth. Pay close attention to the connection of the cable’s point of entry into the searchcoil. Gently tug the cable to determine if wiring is broken. If wires break in the field, you can sometime tape the searchcoil cable to bring the loose wires together so that you can finish that day’s searching permanent repairs will be necessary, however, and I urge you to have them made as soon as possible. Never expect a field expedient to provide a permanent solution to your problem. Generally, a broken cable cannot be repaired; the searchcoil must be replaced. Intermittent Sounds-Check your battery connections, even if you have been inspecting them regularly. Check closely for corroded batteries. Sometimes batteries will leak a small amount of acid, creating corrosion on the contacts. Non-detection-If your detector will not detect metal-even a coin lying on top of the ground-make certain that your detector is properly ground balanced. Also, check to see if you have turned your trash elimination control(s) too high. Audio Threshold Drift-If your audio threshold won’t hold but drifts up and downs check your batteries. In addition, some detectors will require warm-up time. In addition, some detectors will require warm-up time. Make sure you have allowed adequate time (five minutes or so) for the detector’s circuitry to warm up. When you take a detector from an air-conditioned car and operate it in hot sunlight, components can heat too rapidly, necessitating a few minutes warm up time. Detector “Quits” When Searchcoil Is Submerged-Even searchcoils that are guaranteed submersible to the cable connector have been know to leak. Sometimes the cable or searchcoil covering has been punctured by careless handling or by thorns or other sharp pointed objects. Searchcoils can be punctured under water by coral. Water then seeps into the searchcoil, causing the searchcoil to fail temporarily. (Depending on how the detector is positioned, water can also flow through the stem into your control housing, which will RUIN it) Searchcoils have been known to leak when taken from a hot car and immediately submerged in extremely cold water. When hot air in the searchcoil is cooled quickly by the water, a vacuum forms and pulls in water through even the tiniest crack in the cable or searchcoil. If you suspect water seepage in your searchcoil, let it dry for a few days in a warm place (NOT an oven!). if you can locate where the water has seeped into the cable or coil, you can make permanent repairs with liquid silicone. Apply it generously to the puncture and let dry thoroughly before using. Searchcoil covers (or, skidplates) are recommended because they will protect your coil against accidental punctures. Water in Detector Housing-This is awful! At best you will have to return your instrument to the factory for thorough inspection and overhaul. At worst…well, you can imagine. Even if you carefully protect your detector while searching in or around water or while working in the rain, there’s a way water can still get into some housing. If you’ve been in or close to water, never elevate the searchcoil above the level of the control housing because any water in the stem may flow right back into your housing. Always check the stem for accumulated water and carefully drain it. Intermittent Audio/Unsteady Threshold-You’ll probably find this caused by operating too near high voltage power lines, radio/TV transmission facilities or lines, airports or another metal detector. Even CB radios can cause you a problem! Try changing your detector’s frequency, if it has this capability. Otherwise, move to another location. You might also unplug your headphone to see what sound your detector’s speaker provides. Perhaps the wires to your headphones have been damaged. If so, you can try to continue searching with only the speaker. Short Battery Life-If this happens with NiCads read the Battery section of this Guide and note the comments about a “set.” If normal batteries are being used, change to a set that you know is absolutely fresh and keep careful records on their useful life. Headphones require far less power than your detector’s speaker. When you use them, your detection efficiency will increase as well. No Detection Depth-if your batteries are strong; if your detector is correctly ground balanced; if you have good audio, the problem probably lies not with your detector…but, with you. Of course, searchcoils have been known to fail. Try using a different one. If you still can’t get very much depth, go back to your Owner’s Manual. Read it again and follow its instructions carefully. When It Must Return to the Factory-Pack the detector and defective searchcoil(s) carefully with lots of insulation. Do not return stems or headphones unless you suspect they are part of the problem. Always return at least one searchcoil (the one you use the most) even when you are convinced they operate satisfactorily. Of course, always return the battery tray, if your detector is so equipped. Do not pack digging tools, which only increase weight. By all means enclose a letter with your name, address and a complete but concise description of your problem; i.e., how often it occurs and the special conditions that seem to cause it. PROBLEM CHECKLIST (After You Have Check Batteries!) Reminder: These are general instructions. Not all of these checkpoints and procedures will apply to all detector models. CHECK YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL! NO OPERATION (Power on) Battery checks zero: Check battery holder and battery cable connectors. NORMAL OPERATION Battery checks zero: Check joints at battery check switch and other wiring points. No Meter operation or batter check: Check for disconnected wire to meter; check for defective meter; check joints at battery-check switch and other wiring points. No sound: Check for disconnected speaker connector; check for loose wires at speaker; check for damaged headphone jack or plug; check to see if jack springs have opened. Constant sound: Substitute a good coil; check push-button or master control switch and associated cables. Meter operation unsatisfactory: Check for pinched wire. Will not audio tune: Substitute a good coil; check push-button or retune switch and associated wiring; clean connector pins with eraser. Intermittent operation: Check for loose batteries and loose terminals on the battery holder or the batteries themselves; check for tarnish on coil connector pins. BATTERIES (HOLDER) DIFFICULT TO INSTALL Look for restricted wiring; use small file on battery holder or try to smooth out nicks in runners, etc., check for bent or misaligned battery tray and mating connector pins. MODES REVERSED Check to see if control switch is connected backwards; check to see if wires reversed in control switch cable connector. ERRATIC OPERATION Substitute a good coil; check for excessive stem movement; clean coil cable connector pins; check for loose connector and housing screws. Move away from television sets, high voltage power lines and other potential power sources, and check your detector again. CONCLUSION If all of the above procedures fail and your quality-made detector still will not operate, you may require repairs that must be performed at the factory or a service center. If away from home for an extended period, perhaps you can locate a local dealer who will examine your detector. Many Garrett dealers are factory-trained in detector repair. Be prepared to pay a small service charge, but don’t overlook this possibility to get back into the field. It’s also possible that you can rent a detector from a dealer while he ships yours back to the factory. Never hesitate to call the Customer Service Department at Garrett (214) 278-6151 if you ever have any questions concerning your detector or need instructions on returning it to the factory for repairs. Let’s hope that your detector never fails in the field, but don’t try to protect the instrument by “babying it.” USE YOUR DETECTOR! I know that Garrett detectors are built to stand up under rugged conditions during many years of hard work. Maybe the next time you’re using a Green Machine… I’ll see you in the field! You can purchase a Garrett Detector at Kellyco Detector Distributors 1085 Belle Ave. Winter Springs, Fl. 32708 Phone (407) 699-8700 Fax (407) 695-6671 or Website http://www.kellycodetectors.com Reprinted with Permission by Charles Garrett ">

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Key features
- Ground Balance
- Discrimination
- Pinpointing
- Meter readings
- Detector care
- Field maintenance
- Problem checklist
Frequently asked questions
The most important thing is to take care of your detector and handle it with care. Remove the batteries whenever you are not using your detector. Always check your batteries and inspect the terminals for corrosion. Also, avoid using your detector near high voltage power lines and radio/TV transmission facilities or lines.
Begin by holding the detector with the searchcoil away from any metal and about two or three feet above the ground. If your instrument offers both manual and automatic ground balancing, activate the appropriate controls for automatic ground balance. Lower the searchcoil to operating height. Ideally, the automatic ground balance will have proved effective and the audio signal will remain the same, indicating that your detector is properly ground balanced.
You can minimize digging and still not miss valuable targets by using discrimination properly. The Grand Master Hunter and many other of the modern detectors feature two basic modes of operation-Discriminate and ALL Metal. In the Discriminate mode the operator can utilize discrimination controls to be designate the type metal targets that are desired. In the All Metal mode, of course, all targets are audio-detected.