Manual - You have reached

Island Wings Select
59.5 in
430 in2
[27.7 dm2 ]
3– 3.25 lb
[1360–1470 g]
16–17 oz/ft2
[49– 52 g/dm2]
38.5 in
radio system
40mm dia.
850kV outrunner,
40A ESC,
12x6 propeller
Flyzone guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Flyzone’s liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Flyzone reserves the
right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
In that Flyzone has no control over the final assembly or material
used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit as possible.
© 2016 Hobbico®, Inc. All rights reserved.
FLZA4020/FLZA4022/FLZA4024 Mnl v2
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Academy of Model Aeronautics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
FAA Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Transmitter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
LiPo Battery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Charger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
KIT INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Mount the Landing Gear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Mount the Floats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Mount the Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizer . . . . . . . 6
Mount the Wings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Install the Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Failsafe Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Failsafe Function. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
ESC Operation/Startup. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Throttle Calibration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Brake Setting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Hook Up the Rudder and Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hook Up the Flaps and Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
FINAL FLIGHT PREPARATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Check the Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Mount the Propeller and Spinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Motor Safety Precautions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Check the C.G. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
POWERING UP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Back Cover
is your responsibility to operate this vehicle safely following
the FAA rules. Please contact your local authorities to find
out the latest rules and regulations.
Thank you for purchasing the Flyzone 1/10th-scale de
Havilland DHC-2 Beaver RTF/Tx-R/Rx-R. For anybody
who enjoys flying float planes or who aspires to do so for
the first time, the Flyzone Beaver is the perfect choice
because it maneuvers and flies off the water so well—you
virtually can’t mess up a takeoff or landing unless you try!
Of course, the Beaver is almost just as much at home on
dry land as it is in the water. And with the flaps extended
you can set your Beaver down on water or on land as light
as a feather.
In the United States, please visit:
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
the Beaver, visit the Flyzone site at www.flyzoneplanes. 1. Your de Havilland Beaver should not be considered a toy,
com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the “Beaver”. but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
Academy of Model Aeronautics
capabilities, the Beaver, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join!
and damage to property.
The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and
membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects 2. You must assemble the Beaver according to the instructions.
modelers’ rights and interests and is required to fly at most Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in
an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions
R/C sites.
may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the
Academy of Model Aeronautics
written instructions should be considered as correct.
5151 East Memorial Drive
3. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
this type of model before, we recommend that you get
Tele. (800) 435-9262
the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club
Fax (765) 741-0057
for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
Or via the Internet at:
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area
whose membership includes experienced pilots.
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to 4. Check the operation of the model and all components
avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or before each flight.
over groups of people.
5. DO NOT install the propeller UNTIL you have
completed ALL FOUR of the following steps!
A. You MUST confirm that the radio system included with
FAA Information
the RTF version (or the radio system you provide for
the TX-R or RXR) is functioning properly according
As a new owner of an unmanned aircraft system (UAS), you
to pages 10-11.
are required to place your FAA number on or in your plane. It
❍ Flyzone 3S (11.1V) 1800mAh 20C LiPo battery
B. Understand the operation of the motor/failsafe/ESC
in all possible operation scenarios.
C. Learn how to properly power up and power down for
each flight (see back page).
D. Complete all of the steps in this manual up to the prop
installation on page 15..
Install the propeller only AFTER you have completed
these four steps.
❍ Flyzone 3S (11.1V) 2100mAh 20C LiPo battery
Spare batteries may also be purchased and charged at
home ahead of time, eliminating the wait between flights
for batteries to charge at the field.
6. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, or
if a motor or battery larger than ones in the recommended The RTF comes equipped with a Great Planes 3S LiPo
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to balancing Smart Charger, but the Tx-R/Rx-R requires a
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware charger to be purchased separately. The Smart Charger is a
more suitable for the increased stress.
safe way to charge your LiPo battery, but it’s very basic and
just enough to get you started. The Smart Charger charges
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
at a rate of .8 Amps, so it will take at least one-and-a-half
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
hours or more to charge your battery. For those who have
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
the RTF and wish to upgrade their charger, or those with
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
the Tx-R/Rx-R who must purchase a charger, the Duratrax®
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
Onyx™ 235 AC/DC Advanced Peak Charger (DTXP4235) is
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
recommended. The Onyx is perfect for 3S batteries used with
the performance or safety of your completed model.
the Beaver and may be powered either by an external DC
power source (such as a 12V battery), or a 110V AC outlet.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions The Onyx also has an adjustable charge rate to charge your
to end up with a well-built model.
batteries in as little as a half-hour or less (depending on the
condition of your batteries and the manufacturer’s specified
charge rate). The Onyx can also charge larger batteries
and batteries other than LiPos, so it is a versatile charger
Other than a #1 and #2 Phillips screwdriver and a few drops you can grow into. Finally, the 235 features an LCD digital
of non-permanent threadlocker (GPMR6060), no adhesives display screen, so you can see how much capacity it took to
or anything extraordinary is required to assemble the recharge the battery (required for monitoring the condition
Beaver. The RTF is fully equipped with a complete radio of your batteries and calculating how long you can fly).
control system, LiPo battery and charger, so no other NOTE: For use with the Onyx 235, LiPo batteries that
accessories are required, but the following items are come with a Star connector (such as the Flyzone batteries
required to complete the Tx-R and Rx-R editions:
recommended) require a banana plugs-to-Star charge lead
(GPMM3148). This can also be used for batteries equipped
with a Deans connector.
The Tx-R includes the Tactic™ TR624 6-Channel 2.4GHz
receiver, so you’ll need either a Tactic TX610 6-channel
2.4GHz transmitter, or any other 5-channel (or more)
transmitter compatible with the Tactic AnyLink™ 2.4GHz
radio adapter*. Using the AnyLink allows any compatible
transmitter to work with the Tactic receiver.
Before assembly, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure
they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or
are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance
with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting
❍ TX610 6-channel transmitter (TACJ2610)
defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as
❍ AnyLink radio adapter* (TACJ2000)
they are written in the Contents list.
Ph: (217) 398-8970 ext. 5
*In addition to the AnyLink radio adapter, some AnyLink- Flyzone Product Support
Fax: (217) 398-7721
compatible transmitters may also require additional adapter 3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1
cables. Visit to see the AnyLink compatibility Champaign, IL 61822
chart or contact Product Support at the contact information
on this page.
LiPo Battery
Replacement parts for the Flyzone de Havilland Beaver
RTF/Tx-R/Rx-R are available using the order numbers in
the Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer
or mail-order company.
The RTF edition of the Beaver includes a Flyzone 3S (11.1V)
1800mAh 20C LiPo battery and the same is recommended for
the Tx-R/RX-R, but a 2100mAh battery is also an option for
slightly longer flight times (more about flying time on page 16).
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Flyzone web site at www. Click on the Storefront icon at the top
of the page to load the Flyzone Dealer Locator. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Mail parts orders
and payments by
personal check to:
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed
in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Fuselage Set
Wing Set
Horizontal Stab
Vertical Stabilizer
Main Landing Gear
Float Set
Float Brackets
Hatch Set
Main Wheels
Wing Strut Set
Decal Sheet
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@flyzoneplanes.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
Fuselage Set
Wing Set
Horizontal Stabilizer
Vertical Stabilizer
Main Landing Gear
Float Set
Float Brackets
Hatch Set
3-1/2" [90 mm]
Tundra Wheels
Wing Strut Set
Decal Sheet
Tail Wheel Set
12x6 Propeller
Prop Adapter
Water Rudders
Wing Clips
41-19-850 Motor
40 Amp ESC
Flyzone LiPo Battery 3S
11.1V 1800mAh 20C
Tactic TTX610 6Ch SLT 2.4GHz
Radio System No Servos
Tactic TR624 6-Channel
SLT 2.4GHz Receiver
Great Planes AC/DC 3S LiPo
Balancing Smart Charger
Left Wing
Right Wing
Main Landing Gear
Float Brackets
Wing Struts
Vertical Stabilizer
Propeller/Spinner Assembly
Top Hatch
Horizontal Stabilizer
Mount the Floats
NOTE: This instruction manual applies to all versions
of the DHC-2 Beaver (Rx-R, Tx-R, and RTF), simply skip
the steps that do not apply.
Mount the Landing Gear
❑ 1. Use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to fasten both main landing
gears to the fuselage with three M3x16 screws in each side.
❑ 1. Connect the floats to each other with the horizontal
struts and four M2.5x20 machine-thread screws.
❑ 2. Mount the tail gear with two M2.5x8 screws, then fasten
the pushrod wires as shown. Make sure the tail wheel is
perpendicular with the steering arm and tighten the screws.
❑ 4. Connect a small rubber band to the inside side of
each float and water rudder as shown.
❑ 2. Use eight M2.5x8 screws to fasten the braces to the
floats, matching the labels printed or molded into the end
of each brace to each mount location on each float.
❑ 5. Fasten the wire hooks on the end of each rudder
line to the connectors in the steering arm. As best as you
can, adjust the tension in the lines to center the water
rudders—the rudders don’t have to be perfectly centered,
because over time they may drift anyway, and the rudders
are forgiving and overall water handling is easy.
Mount the Horizontal
and Vertical Stabilizer
❑ 3. Fasten the float braces to the fuselage with one
M3x16mm screw and two M2.5x8mm screws in each side
of the fuselage. No screw is installed in the third strut at
this time.
❑ 1. Fasten the vertical stabilizers to each end of the
horizontal stabilizer (stab) with M2x6 screws.
❑ 2. Connect the elevator pushrod to the bottom hole in
the elevator horn as shown.
❑ 4. Key the rudder torque rod down into the receptacle
while fitting the vertical stabilizer (fin) into the fuselage.
Tightly press the assembly down into position.
❑ 3. Rotate the stab upward and key it into the fuselage.
❑ 5. Secure the stab and fin with the M3x22 screw.
Mount the Wings
❑ 2. Guide the wires from the right wing into the fuselage,
then slide the wing joiner tube and the flap pushrod wire
through the corresponding holes. Also guide the flap pushrod
wire into the screw-lock connector on the flap servo. Guide
the joiner tube through the hole in the left side of the fuselage,
then tightly “CLICK!” the wing onto the wing clips.
❑ 1. Fasten the wing clips to both sides of the fuselage
with four M3x10 screws.
Install the Battery
❑ 3. Mount the left wing the same way.
❑ 1. Cut two 1” [25mm] strips from the rougher, “hook”
side of the included adhesive-back hook-and-loop material.
Apply the strips inside the fuselage where shown and press
them down tightly so they adhere.
❑ 4. Mount the top of each wing strut to the wing with a
M2.5x8 machine-thread screw.
❑ 2. Cut a 3” [76mm] strip from the softer, “loop” side and
attach it to the battery so the larger “discharge” wires will
be on the right side as shown. (This will position the wires
opposite the receiver for a better fit.)
Receiver Installation (Rx-R ONLY)
Install your receiver into the fuselage, connecting the servos
according to the labels attached to the wires. Follow the
radio manufacturer’s recommendations for set-up. Once
connected, skip to Throttle Calibration on page 11.
❑ 5. Mount the bottom of each strut to the fuselage over
the third float strut (or over the main landing gear) with a
M3x16 screw.
6. Press the LINK button
on the TR624 receiver
(Tx-R, RTF versions)
and hold for 2 seconds.
The red LINK light
should blink and then
stay on.
Failsafe Setting & Function (RTF/Tx-R Only)
IMPORTANT: Before installing the propeller, it’s
important for safety reasons to ensure that the
failsafe on the receiver is at the 0% throttle preset
position as indicated in the instructions below.
The included (Tx-R, RTF versions) Tactic TR624 receiver
has a failsafe feature which engages in the event that the
radio signal from the transmitter is interrupted. If radio
contact is broken, this safety feature causes the servos
to automatically move either to a certain position, or hold
their last position to prevent the model from moving in
an erratic manner. Channels 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 will enter
a “hold” mode, whereby the servos will lock in their last
recognized position.
The failsafe is now set. In the event that the receiver loses
signal from the transmitter the throttle will revert to 0% or
to the preset position. To confirm the desired setting of
the failsafe, move the throttle stick to the minimum position
(“beep”) and turn the transmitter switch to “OFF”. Once
the failsafe setting is confirmed, turn the transmitter “ON”
to regain complete control of the model. Always remove
the propeller from the aircraft before adjusting or
testing the failsafe.
The servo or ESC connected to Channel 3, normally being
the throttle control, will move to a pre-set position. The
factory default failsafe position for Channel 3 is to move
to 0% throttle. Motor/prop movement should stop if the
receiver loses signal from the transmitter. The throttle
servo’s failsafe position can be manually re-set to any
other position if desired, as follows:
NOTE: If you replace the ESC with a different ESC which
has a signal loss feature, the pre-set failsafe position is
irrelevant as the signal loss feature will cease the throttle
operation if the signal is lost.
ESC Operation/Startup
1. Install the AA batteries into the included transmitter.
Throttle stick is in the
0% (minimum) position!
2. Make sure the throttle
stick is in the minimum
position or 0% throttle.
OR Move the throttle
stick to the desired
position for the throttle
control to revert to if the
receiver goes to failsafe.
3. Power on the transmitter.
4. Make sure the servo
reversing switch for
CH3 throttle (located on
the front of the TTX610
transmitter OR in the
battery compartment in
the rear of the TTX610
transmitter) is in the
“ON” position as shown.
NOTE: If using an SLTcompatible transmitter
or a transmitter with
AnyLink, make sure
the throttle channel
reversing switch is in
the “reverse” position.
5. Plug in the battery to
the aircraft.
Seek the assistance of an experienced pilot if new to
electric motor operation.
1. Before powering up the model to run the motor or fly,
always lower the throttle stick to 0% and turn on the
transmitter first before connecting the battery to the
ESC (similarly, always disconnect the battery from the
ESC before turning off the transmitter).
2. Always securely hold onto the model when connecting
the battery. Holding the model and expecting the
propeller to turn will prevent an accident or injury.
Each time you connect the battery to the aircraft, the ESC
will send electrical pulses to the motor causing it to chime
three times (“ 1 2 3”) followed by a single, longer beep
(“beeep”), followed by either one or two more short beeps
depending on whether the brake is On or Off (more on the
motor brake below). Now the model is ready to fly and the
propeller will turn when the throttle is advanced.
Turn on Tx
& Connect
the Battery
“‘1 2 3”
One or Two
Short Beeps
“beep” or
“beep beep”
If the transmitter is not turned On before the battery and
ESC are connected (so the receiver is not receiving a signal)
the motor will still chime three times (“ 1 2 3”), but then will
sound consecutive beeps (“beep,” “beep,” “beep,”….) until
the transmitter is turned On, at which time it will resume
the starting sequence of the single, long beep (“beeep”)
and one or two short beeps.
If the throttle stick is not all the way down when the battery is
connected to the ESC, the motor will beep rapidly (“beep, beep,
beep, beep, beep…”) until either the battery is disconnected
or the throttle stick is returned to the Off /0% position. Then
the normal beep sequence will resume.
If the chime sounds followed by continuous, slow beeps
(“beep…beep…beep…beep…”), then the receiver is not
receiving a signal from the transmitter. You may need to
link the receiver to the transmitter, or check the connection
between the ESC and the receiver.
C. To change the brake setting (on or off) reconnect
the battery to the ESC with the transmitter on and
the throttle stick all the way up. Lower the throttle
stick after the single short beep to turn the brake
off; or lower the throttle stick after the two short
beeps to turn the brake on:
Throttle Calibration
If you connect the battery to the ESC and hear the three
chimes (“ 1 2 3”), but then the motor beeps rapidly (beep,
beep, beep, beep, beep, beep….) and does not run when
you move the throttle stick, the ESC is not detecting the
end points of the throttle stick and requires calibration.
Recalibration may also be required if you ever switch to
a different transmitter, or if you adjust the throttle trim
or throttle end points in your transmitter:
1. Remove the propeller.
2. Turn on the transmitter and advance the throttle to the
“up” position.
3. Connect the battery to the ESC and hear the chime
followed by two long beeps (“beeep, beeep”) indicating
that the ESC has read the top of the throttle range.
4. Move the throttle stick to the low position and again
hear a single long beep (“beeep”) (signaling that the ESC
has read the bottom end of the throttle range) followed
by one or two short beeps signaling the completion of
the procedure. Now the throttle has been calibrated.
“‘1 2 3”
Two Long
the throttle
1 or 2
“beep” or
“beep beep”
“‘1 2 3”
Two Long
2 Short
– OR –
“beep beep”
(Brake Off)
(Brake On)
D. After the throttle stick is lowered to turn the brake
on or off, the single, long beep will sound (“beeep”)
followed by a single short beep (brake off) or two
short beeps (brake on) depending on how you just
programmed the brake.
Hook Up the Rudder and Elevator
Note: If this recalibration does not work, increase or
decrease the throttle trim or end point for low throttle on
your transmitter and repeat the procedure.
❑ 1. Turn on the transmitter, lower the throttle stick all the
way to 0%, and center the trims.
Brake Setting
The ESC is preset from the factory with the motor brake
off, but if you inadvertently turn on the brake, or if the ESC
was not set correctly, follow these instructions to turn on
or off the brake:
1. Remove the propeller.
2. Turn on the transmitter and move the throttle stick all
the way up.
3. Connect a battery to the ESC to power up the ESC
and radio.
A. Hear the chimes (“ 1 2 3”) followed by two long
beeps (“beeep, beeep”) followed by a pause, a short
beep (“beep”), another pause, then two more short
beeps (“beep, beep”).
B. If you do nothing, the brake will not be changed.
Disconnect the battery from the ESC.
❑ 2. Connect the battery to the ESC. If all is working
properly, the ESC will send three, short, electrical pulses
to the motor causing it to chime three times (“ 1- 2- 3”)
followed by a longer, single, lower tone beep (“BEEEP”)
followed by a shorter, higher tone beep (“beep”). If the
chimes and beeps do not sound in this manner refer to
“FAILSAFE/MOTOR/ESC OPERATION” on page 10 to setup
the transmitter and ESC correctly.
❑ 5. Reinstall the screw, but do not tighten yet. With the
transmitter and receiver on, center the elevator and tighten
the screw to lock the pushrod down.
A magnetic screwdriver, or a small magnet stuck to a
screw driver to make it magnetic, will be helpful for the
next couple of steps.
❑ 6. Repeat the same procedure for the rudder, making
sure it is centered. Lock the pushrod in place on the servo
arm with the screw and threadlocker.
❑ 7. Disconnect the battery and turn off the transmitter.
❑ 3. Remove the screw from the connector on the elevator
servo arm.
Hook Up the Flaps and Ailerons
❑ 4. Lightly wet the threads of the screw with threadlocker.
❑ 3. Move the dial or switch on your transmitter that
controls the flaps to the “up” position, rotating the flap
servo arm clockwise. Remove the screw in the flap servo
arm, wet the threads with threadlocker, and then reinstall
and tighten the screw so the flaps will be in their fully
retracted (“up”) position.
❑ 1. Connect the wing lighting wires and the aileron servo
wires to the lighting aileron and flap wiring harnesses
coming from the receiver.
❑ 4. With the system still on, make sure the ailerons are
centered and aligned with the wing tips. If necessary, apply a
few clicks of aileron trim to get the ailerons centered. If more
than a few clicks of trim are required, or if you cannot get
both ailerons neutralized, a small screwdriver may be used
to pop off one or both aileron servo covers to access the
pushrods. Adjust the pushrods in the connectors to get the
ailerons centered. When finished, replace the cover, press
into position, and hold in place with tape or a dab of glue.
❑ 2. Turn on the transmitter and install and connect the
battery. Then install and secure the hatch.
Check the Control Throws
Because the servos and pushrods are factory-installed
the control throws should already be correct, but because
of the effect the control throws can have on a model, it’s
always a good idea to check them anyway.
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP (Standard Mode 2)
Recommended Control Surface Throws
❑ 1. Confirm that the controls are responding in the correct
direction according to control inputs from the transmitter.
If necessary, use the servo reversing program in your
transmitter to change the servo direction of any controls
that are moving the wrong way.
❑ 2. If your de Havilland Beaver is configured with wheels,
use a small box or something similar to prop up the bottom
of the fuselage under the tail so the wings and stab are
level (or nearly level).
Recommended Control Surface Throws
8 mm
8 mm
13 mm
13 mm
10 mm
10 mm
32 mm
32 mm
22 mm
22 mm
Recommended Control Surface Throws
10 º
10 º
20 º
20 º
26 º
26 º
❑ 3. Measure and set the control throws according to the
measurements below. The throws are measured at the
widest part (front-to-back) of each surface.
More Control Throw
Farther Out
Mount the Propeller and Spinner
Less Control Throw
Farther In
❑ 4. If any of the control throws require adjustment use the
programming in your transmitter to increase or decrease
the throws accordingly. If the programming isn’t enough or
if your radio doesn’t have adjustable throws, the pushrod
connectors on the servo arms can be relocated in different
holes inward or outward to increase or decrease the throw—
moving the pushrods inward on the servo arms decreases ❑ 1. Secure the backplate, propeller, washer and nut. Make
the throw and moving the pushrods outward on the servo sure the assembly is secure to the aircraft.
arms increases the throw.
Motor and Prop Safety Precautions
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in
severe injury to yourself and others.
● Wear safety glasses whenever in the proximity of a
spinning propeller.
● Do not operate the motor in an area of loose gravel or
sand; the propeller may throw such material in your
face or eyes.
● Keep spectators as well as your own face and body
out of the plane of rotation of the propeller.
● Never connect the battery to the ESC while indoors
with the propeller installed.
● Always remove the propeller when testing or making
repairs to the model.
● Always stay behind the arc of the propeller when
handling the model.
● Always assume the motor may start unexpectedly when
the flight battery is connected.
● Always remain outside the arc of the propeller when
installing and/or removing the flight battery.
● Keep all loose clothing, long hair or any other loose
objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall
out pockets away from the propeller.
❑ 2. Tighten the two Phillips head screws to the spinner.
Check the C.G.
Same as the control throws, the C.G. has a great effect on
how every model flies, so do not skip this procedure. If the
model is tail-heavy it may be too instable and respond too
quickly to the controls. If the model is nose-heavy it may be too
stable and not respond fast enough—in either case possibly
causing a crash. Do not overlook this important procedure.
64 mm
4. Lift the model by your fingers between the lines
indicating the balance range. As long as the Beaver sits level
with your fingers on the forward or aft lines or anywhere
between the lines it is properly balanced and ready to
fly. If you have to move your fingertips outside the lines
the Beaver is out of balance and should not be flown. If
necessary, add squares of stick-on lead to the nose or tail
to get the Beaver to balance within the specified range.
When powering up, make sure the throttle stick is in
the minimum (0%) position. Always turn the transmitter
ON before plugging the battery into the plane.
The Beaver flies mostly the same as any similar-type, highwing airplane, but you may find that the roll rate is a little
slower. This suits the Beaver well as it is a scale-like, STOL
(Short TakeOff and Landing) craft. Just give yourself more
time and altitude before trying your first full roll.
❑ 1. Mark the forward and aft C.G. limits on both sides of
the bottom of the wing 2" and 2-1/2" [51mm and 64mm]
back from the leading edge where shown—using narrow
strips of tape will allow you to feel the marks when lifting
the model with your fingertips to balance.
The only peculiarity arises when the flaps are extended—if
you extend the flaps too soon before the Beaver has lost
enough flying speed the nose will pitch up. The way to avoid
this is first by making sure you have given the Beaver enough
time to slow after cutting the throttle. You can also roll in
the flaps gradually. If you have a computer radio you could
also mix in some down elevator with flaps. In any regard,
once the Beaver reaches “equilibrium” and has initiated a
gliding descent the nose will resume a normal, downward
glide angle. Similarly, when powering up the throttle with
the flaps extended the nose will pitch up, so be ready to
counter with down elevator.
Taken verbatim from our flight log book… “Flying the Beaver
from water with floats can be described with many adjectives
including astonishing, easy, fun, smooth, remarkable, etc.”
Unless weather conditions are poor, you should have no
trouble flying the Beaver from either rough or calm water.
The water rudders direct the Beaver well and they don’t have
to be perfectly centered to be effective (so don’t spend an
exorbitant amount of time on the work bench working on
them!). The Beaver turns more tightly at idle speeds, so if
you need to do a U-turn throttle back to bring the Beaver
around. At higher speeds during a takeoff run the water
rudders have the correct amount of effectiveness to steer
the Beaver on its intended path. Takeoffs can be long and
graceful or short and steep—either way the floats handle
❑ 2. Install the battery, battery hatch and cabin hatch. At
this point the Beaver must be in ready-to-fly condition with
everything attached and installed including the floats or
wheels and battery and propeller.
the water well. If the winds are really high the Beaver can
still be flown from water, but avoid turning it directly across
the wind. Otherwise, the wind can get under the wing and
flip the Beaver over. In the air, the only effect of the floats
is that the Beaver flies slightly slower.
Parts damaged beyond repair can be purchased separately.
The full replacement part list is printed in the front of the
manual on page 4. Often though, parts can be repaired
and you can get your Beaver back into the air with a little
glue and ingenuity.
Flying “normally” (using half-throttle for general cruising
and full-throttle only when required) the Beaver consumes
about 200mAh/minute for recommended flight times of
about 7 minutes with an 1800 mAh battery and about 8.5
minutes with a 2100 mAh battery. Flying more aggressively
using higher throttle settings, the current draw increases
closer to 260 mAh/minute for recommended flight times
of 5.5 minutes with an 1800 mAh battery and 6.5 minutes
with a 2100mAh battery.
The Beaver is made from injection-molded EPO (expanded
polyolefin) foam which can be glued with just about anything.
Most people use regular CA. With CA no clamping is required,
but some prefer softer, more flexible adhesives such as
white glue or canopy glue. These will require clamps or
tape to hold the parts together while the glue dries.
To find out for yourself how long you can fly, set your timer
to a conservative 5 minutes. Fly until the timer sounds, then
land. Use a charger with a digital display to find out how
much capacity it took to recharge the battery (indicating how
much capacity was used). To avoid over discharging your
LiPos use only 80% of your battery’s capacity, so multiply
your battery’s capacity by .8 to find out how much you
have available. Compare the capacity used to 80% of your
battery’s capacity and adjust your flight time accordingly.
For example: If using the recommended 1800mAh battery,
your target capacity to use for a flight is 1440 mAh (1800 mAh
x .8 = 1440 mAh). If you fly for five minutes and it takes
1000 mAh to recharge your battery, you still have 440 mAh to
go before you should land, so adjust your timer to increase
your flight time accordingly until you reach your 1440 mAh
target. (You could also divide 1000 mAh by five minutes
to figure a current consumption rate of 200 mAh/minute.
Divide 1440 mAh by 200 mAh/minute to conclude that you
can fly for 7.2 minutes [7 min. 12 sec.]—but round down
to 7 minutes.)
When powering down, always unplug the battery from
the plane before turning the transmitter OFF.
One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve
run out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should
be deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going
to do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top,
and make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low
rates). A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing
your model just because of poor planning and impulsive
moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fly in a safe manner.
This model belongs to:
It’s also a great idea to use a LiPo battery checker
(HCAP0275) to check the battery before each flight (to
make sure you haven’t inadvertently grabbed a discharged
battery) and to check the battery after flight to make sure
you haven’t over discharged your battery by flying too long.
A safe, conservative, minimum voltage is 3.65V – 3.7V per
cell right after a flight.
City, State, Zip
Phone Number
FAA Number
AMA Number
Follow these steps in powering your model:
Throttle stick in the
minimum position!
ALWAYS turn the transmistter
“ON” BEFORE plugging in the
battery into the plane.
When finished flying:
ALWAYS unplug the battery
from the plane BEFORE
turning the transmitter “OFF”.
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