Tube Screamer TS808 / TS9

Tube Screamer TS808 / TS9
Tube Screamer
v4.0
Tube Screamer
TS808 / TS9
Contents of this document are ©2016 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
Schematic + BOM
R1
R2
R3
R5
R6
R7
R8
R9
R10
R11
R12
R13
R14
R15
R16
R17
R18
R22
RLED
1K
510K
10K
10K
4K7
51K
1K
10K
10K
220R
510K
10K (100K)
10K
100R (470R)
10K
1K
1K
1M
1K - 4K7
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
C6
C7
C8
C9
C10
C11
C12
C13
22n
1u
47n
47p
.22u tant
See bass mod
47u (4.7u)
1u
.22u tant
100n
10u
100u
See bass mod
IC
4558
Q1,2
2N3904
D1,2
D3
D4
1N4148
Jumper*
1N4001
TONE 20KW***
DRIVE 500KA
LEVEL 100KA
S1
SPDT**
Parts listed are for the TS808 version.
For TS9 substitute parts in blue.
*Optional extra diode spot for asymetrical clipping. See overleaf.
**Optional switch for More Bass mods - see overleaf.
***The Tone pot on the original is a special W-taper. 20KB will work fine.
Be very careful when soldering the
transistors and diodes. They’re very
sensitive to heat. You should use
some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip
or reverse action tweezers) on each
leg as you solder them. Keep
exposure to heat to a minimum
(under 2 seconds). Use a socket for
IC1, or be super careful.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic caps go to the square pads. C7 and C12 can be laid flat as
shown in the cover image to give you extra clearance in the enclosure.
Negative (cathode) legs of the diodes go to the square pads.
You should solder all other board-mounted components before you solder the pots. Once they’re in
place you’ll have no access to much of the board. Make sure your pots all line up nicely. The best
way to do that is to solder a single pin of each pot in place then melt and adjust if necessary before
soldering in the other two pins. If your pots don’t have protective plastic jackets ensure you leave a
decent gap between the pot body and the PCB otherwise you risk shorting out the circuit.
If you aren’t using the optional More Bass switch there’s no need to do anything with the pads for
S1. Ignore them.
There are two sets of pads for LEVEL and DRIVE. This gives you the option to place these controls
further down the enclosure if you’re using the More Bass switch. If not, use the top ones to get the
best control spacing.
More Bass mods
C6 and C13 are extra caps for the More Bass mod. Use one cap spot along with a SPDT ON-ON
switch for a single extra bass setting. If you use C6, the extra bass will be engaged when the
switch is up. Use C13 for extra bass in the down position.
For two extra settings use both cap spots and a SPDT ONOFF-ON switch.
Recommended values are 47n for much more bass, 22n for a
little more bass, or use both if you’re going for two settings.
Clipping
D3 is included so you can easily add asymetrical clipping
which changes the nature of the tone. If you want this, just
put a 1N4148 in D3 instead of a jumper.
PCB Layout ©2016 Pedal Parts Ltd.
The power and signal pads on the
PCB conform to the FuzzDog Direct
Connection format, so can be paired
with the appropriate daughterboard
for quick and easy offboard wiring.
Check the separate daughterboard
document for details.
Test the board!
BATTERY
IN
IN
9V GND
OUT
OUT
Your nice, new circuit board
INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help be
offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on
the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run.
If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND,
IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs
together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect
the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you
know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry
about the switch etc.
Wire it up
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BOARD
GND
IN
BOARD
GND
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
+
BOARD
OUT
L
LE
ED
D
+
OUT
BOARD
LED+
BATTERY
Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug
from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.
The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You
can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to
the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),
and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
PedalParts.co.uk
Drilling template
No Switch
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots
Jacks
Footswitch
DC Socket
Toggle Switch
Hammond 1590B
7mm
10mm
12mm
12mm
6mm
60 x 111 x 31mm
It’s a good idea to drill the
pot and toggle switch holes
1mm bigger if you’re
board-mounting them.
Wiggle room = good!
32mm
21mm
This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
PedalParts.co.uk
Drilling template
with Switch
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots
Jacks
Footswitch
DC Socket
Toggle Switch
Hammond 1590B
7mm
10mm
12mm
12mm
6mm
60 x 111 x 31mm
It’s a good idea to drill the
pot and toggle switch holes
1mm bigger if you’re
board-mounting them.
Wiggle room = good!
5mm
32mm
18mm
This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
PedalParts.co.uk
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