PC-Plus User Guide
Polymaker PC-Plus™ is a polycarbonate based filament designed specifically for desktop FDM/FFF 3D
printing. It offers superior printing quality, excellent mechanical strength and heat resistance, with
moderate printing temperatures and great warping resistance.
Polymaker PC-Plus™ offers better heat resistance than
almost all other 3D printing materials currently in the
market. It can withstand temperatures well above 110 º C.
Normalized Mechanical Strength (%)
Tensile Strength
Bending Strength
Polymaker PC-Plus
Tested with 3D printed specimens (100% infill)
Parts made with Polymaker PC-Plus™ shows much improved
mechanical strength compared to ABS and PLA under almost any
Polymaker PC-Plus
Tested with 3D printed specimens (100% infill)
deformation test.
Polymaker PC-Plus™ shows good optical clarity, rendering parts with an attractive
crystal shine!
Intrinsic flame retardance (V2 based on UL94:2006)
Good chemical/solvent resistance
High printing quality
Before you start printing with Polymaker PC-PlusTM for the first time, check to
make sure the following conditions are met:
 The extruder of your 3D printer can operate in the temperature range of 250 – 270 º C
(While printing at less than 250 º C is also possible, it is recommended that Polymaker PC-Plus™ be printed
at 250 º C or above for better layer adhesion and consistency)
 Your printer is equipped with a heated build plate (HBP)
(Printing with a non-heated build plate is possible, but a HBP is generally
 The build plate is covered with a BuildTak™ sheet
(Required. Other build surfaces such as the blue tape, Kapton
tape, glass, etc., are not recommended for Polymaker PC-Plus™ )
BuildTak™ is an ideal 3D printing surface for FFF
3D printers. It works with all Polymaker filaments!
 Your printer is well calibrated
(Special care should be taken to ensure that the “zero” distance between the
nozzle and the build plate is not overly small; 0.3 – 0.4 mm or 1-2 “business card
thickness” should be good)
Recommended but not required:
 Your printer is equipped with an enclosed printing chamber
(It is not a must, but having an enclosed printing chamber can lead to more
consistent prints. If an enclosed printing chamber is not available, try to
avoid large variations in environmental temperatures during printing)
Design by Daniel Noree
 Temperature settings
 Model cooling fan
 Nozzle temperature (for 0.2 mm layer height):
 If your printer is equipped with a model cooling fan,
250 - 270 º C
turn it off completely or disable it in your slicer.
(255 º C was found to be optimum on most
(Unlike PLA, Polymaker PC-Plus™ solidifies rapidly
printers we have tested and is therefore a good
and therefore does not need extra fan-cooling; over-
starting point)
cooling can lead to poor interlayer adhesion)
 HBP temperature: ~ 80 º C
 Raft settings
 Printing speeds
 Always print with a raft
 Various depending on printers; in general 30 - 90
A raft ensures both good adhesion and easy
removal from the build plate
(In most circumstances the default speed
 Separation distance between the raft and the
part: 0.2 - 0.3 mm
settings of your printer should be good for
Polymaker PC-Plus™)
This relatively large value is to ensure easy
removal of the raft after printing
Ver. 3.0
 Temperature Settings
• Set the extruder
temperature to 255 º C
• (Note: you have to delete
the old settings first)
• Set the HBP
temperature to 80 º C
 Cooling Settings
• Disable the model cooling fan
by setting the speed to “0”
 Raft Settings
* Only key settings are shown here; you can
adjust other settings (e.g. speeds, Infill,
shells, etc.) based on your needs
• Check to enable
the use of raft
• Important: set the separation distance
to between 0.2 - 0.3 mm for easy
removal of the raft after printing
 My printed parts appear stringy, any suggestions?
 That means either the retraction settings are insufficient, or your printing temperature is too high. First check your
retraction settings, and if needed, reduce your printing temperature.
The “fine positive features” model by Andreas Bastian is a good testing model for retraction settings:
 I found it difficult to remove the part from the build plate, what shall I do?
As we mentioned earlier, you should always print a raft with Polymaker PC-Plus™ . If the part is difficult to remove
even with a raft, try increasing the initial nozzle-plate distance.
 Why is the removal of the raft from the printed part so difficult?
 You need to correctly set the distance between the raft and the model (~ 0.3 mm recommended). Under the correct
settings the raft should peel off easily. If you still experience difficulty with removing the raft, try increasing the
distance (e.g. by 0.05 mm increment) until the result is satisfactory. However the distance cannot be overly large as
adequate adhesion between the part and the raft is still needed to prevent part warping.
 I printed a tall part and found the interlayer adhesion in certain areas to be rather poor, what shall I do?
 For tall parts (> 10 cm), as there is less heat compensation from the HBP for taller sections, it is recommended that
the printing temperature be slightly raised (e.g. 260-270 º C) to ensure better interlayer adhesion. Or if the slicer allows,
you can increase your printing temperature with increasing heights.
Having an enclosed printing chamber can greatly minimize this issue, and therefore is essential for getting consistent
results particularly for large, tall parts.
Model shown in the background:
Design by loubie
Shanghai - New York - Utrecht - Tokyo
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