You can refer to the following article if you want to set up the bi

You can refer to the following article if you want to set up the bi
You can refer to the following article if you want to set up the bi-amp your
speakers with two Trends TA-10 amplifiers:
Biwire or Biamp, Bi Golly!
Many of you have probably heard the terms biwire or biamplify, but may not
realize what they mean or understand the significance of their application. The
use of either spells clearer, purer, and more articulate sound for those of you
whose speakers will allow you to employ these sonic upgrades. Unfortunately,
not everyone may be able to apply these methods right now. The first thing to
check is the back of your speakers. If they have two sets of binding posts, two
red input terminals and two black, then you’re ready to try something that the
manufacturer of your speakers hoped you would utilize. After all,
manufacturers wouldn’t just include a back-up set of speaker inputs, would
they?
As you may have noticed when you checked for twin sets of binding posts on
the back of your speakers, the common-colored posts are "strapped" together
by a jumper of some nature. Those jumpers are provided to link the speaker’s
internal crossovers, since not everyone wants to be bothered with biwiring or
biamping. The crossover is nothing more than a specialized filter, consisting of
coils, capacitors, resistors and diodes. Its purpose is to sort and direct the
full-frequency audio signal provided by the amplifier. In a two-way speaker, it
divides the music into highs and lows, based on the manufacturer’s
pre-determined flex point. Frequencies above that point are only allowed to
pass on to the tweeter, while everything below that flex point is passed on to
mid-woofer.
The term biwire simply refers to the fact that you will be running two sets of
loudspeaker cables from your amplifier to each of your speakers. To get
started, you will first need to acquire a second set of speaker cables. They can
be the same as the ones you use now, or different if you don’t have two
identical pairs. More on that later. They should be the same length, however.
Next, you need to remove the strapping or jumper connection between the two
sets of posts on your speakers. These dual posts are usually located one
above the other, but
there are some other
less
likely
configurations (such
as for the Celestions
shown). If you are
unsure exactly how
to do this, consult your
speaker manual. For
most
speakers,
removing
the
connection will be
obvious.
One
jumper ties both red
terminals together
and one unites both
black terminals. You
simply back off the
nuts on the binding
posts and remove the
strapping device, usually two flat bars or wires. Un-strapping the posts allows
separate paths to the individual crossover for each driver or group of drivers. If
you own a speaker with three or more drivers but with only two sets of binding
posts, you’re still fine.
Head next to the back of your amplifier or receiver. If it is equipped with the
traditional five-way binding posts, the next step should pose no significant
problem. The idea is to hook both sets of speaker cables to only one set of
corresponding terminals on the back of the amp. This means that both of the
positive ends for the two right sets of cables are connected to the single plus
terminal of the right speaker output and both of the negative ends from the two
right sets of cables are connected to the single minus terminal of the right
speaker output. Do exactly the same for the left channel with the other two sets
of loudspeaker cables and we’re ready for the next step.
If your chosen loudspeaker cables use the banana-type connections or if your
amplifier or receiver uses the push spring-clip type of connections, try the
following. First, see if your receiver or amp has a second pair of speaker
outputs. These are usually labeled A and B or something similar. If so, you can
insert one set of wires into the A speaker output and one set into the B output.
Don’t forget to switch both outputs on from the front of your receiver or
amplifier (if necessary) or you will only be powering half of the speaker
compliment. If you do not have that A and B output option, then you will have
no choice but to use wires that are unterminated. In this case you will have to
twist the bare-wire ends of the pairs together and carefully insert them into the
push spring-clip terminals. BE VERY CAREFUL not to let any stray wire touch
any terminal other than the one into which it should be inserted, or your amp
COULD GO UP IN SMOKE! You may choose to pass on trying to biwire if that
is the case. If you proceed, you do so at your own risk and assume all liability
for any damage that may occur.
Once you’re done at the amp end, run both doubled-wire sets to the back of
the respective speakers. All that is left to do now is to attach one set of speaker
cables to the high-frequency terminals and the other set to the low frequency
inputs of each speaker. Now power everything up and enjoy the fruits of your
tweak. There should be more clarity and detail to the midrange and high
frequencies. Often the bass becomes less fat in nature, becoming both a bit
faster and tighter. Focus and staging should improve nicely as well. You may
notice less congestion in dynamic or complex passages. In all, this is a very
effective and desirable improvement and only requires the investment in a
second set of speaker cables.
Biwiring works by reducing of the tendency for strong bass signals to
overwhelm the rest of the audio signal. The larger, more powerful bass signal
can greatly affect the integrity of the much lower-energy components of both
the midrange and fragile treble information. Running separate wires from the
amplifier can have a profound impact on relieving the tweeter circuit from the
back flush of EMF (elector-motive force) generated by the woofer. When the
audio signal to the woofer ceases, such as when a loud bass note is finished,
the woofer tries to stop moving. In trying to stop, it actually goes through a
process of "settling" because it is too massive to just stop instantly. As it settles,
it moves forward and backward repeatedly until it can completely come to rest.
During this movement, as the voice coil is moving through the field of the
magnet, it generates its own signal. That generated signal is sent backward up
the woofer wires and into the crossover, where it corrupts the rest of the music
signal.
Biwiring also affords you another grand luxury. Aside from helping to eliminate
distortions, it also permits you to select specific wires for each frequency
application. If you have been in this hobby/sport/disease for any length of time,
you will have at least heard by now that all wires, both loudspeaker and
interconnect, possess their own characteristic sound. When biwiring, you have
the ability to match a wire that is open and airy, but is perhaps lean in the bass
region, to the tweeter. By the same token, some of the best bass performance
is delivered from wires that aren’t so revealing or extended in the high
frequencies. So hitch up the low-frequency drivers with that wire. Now you’ve
got the best of both worlds!
Taking the next step, or biamplifying, affords you even more advantages while
admittedly greatly increasing the overall cost. In the standard configuration,
you use one amp to reproduce the high frequencies and one to reproduce the
low frequencies. Since this requires two amplifiers, it is not as cost-effective as
just biwiring. In this
application you
may
use
two
identical amps or,
again taking treble
and
bass
performance
of
separate
amplifiers
into
consideration,
you can select an
extended
and
articulate
performer for the
highs and a strong
bass performer
for the lows.
Whatever pair of
you must now get
amps you select,
the preamplifier
output of both left and right channels to both amps. If you are lucky enough to
have a preamplifier with two sets of outputs, you’re home free. If not, this is
most easily accomplished with the use of what is known as a Y-adapter, which
consists of one male RCA jack that is terminated with two female RCA plugs.
Y-adapters come in two varieties: one made from cable and the other
fashioned from a solid piece of metal. The cable version is made up of short
lengths of cable, and the solid-body job is a machined metal splitter. Exercise
care when choosing your Ys. The dollar-ninety-niners at Radio Shack or
Circuit City are certain to degrade the overall performance of your system
more than enough to negate the advantages you hope to gain by biamping.
Travel to an audio shop and pick out two good-quality, well-terminated
Y-adapters. Inserting one of these Y-adapters into both the left- and
right-channel outputs of your preamplifier will give you the necessary two
outputs for each channel.
Now you will need to use two pair of interconnects, one set to carry the stereo
signal for the high-frequency amp, the second pair to do the same for the
low-frequency amp. The speaker outputs of the amp chosen for the highs are
then connected to the respective high-frequency terminals of both speakers.
That is, the left output from this amp feeds the left speaker’s high-frequency
input terminals, while the right output from the same amp feeds the right
speaker’s high-frequency input terminals. Duplicate these connections from
the other amplifier to both speakers’ low-frequency inputs and you are ready to
go.
Some people choose to use an electronic crossover between their preamplifier
and pair of power amps. This active crossover pre-filters the audio signal at a
low-voltage level and sends only predetermined bass frequencies to the bass
amp and high frequencies to the tweeter amp. While this is desirable for a
number of reasons, it is not mandatory to enjoy the benefits of biamplifying.
Advantages to biamping are identical to those of the simpler biwire application,
with added benefits. Since you have probably doubled the power you were
using with just one amp when biwiring, it will provide even more clarity and
detail as well as providing more power to the speaker system. This will likely
aid in such areas as dynamic contrasts, individual voicing of instruments and
deep-bass performance.
The second method of biamplification is known as the vertical configuration.
This differs from the standard method in how the output of the two power amps
is applied. In the vertical biamp, one amp is used to power only the left speaker
and the second for only the right speaker. For this arrangement, the use of
identical amplifiers is imperative.
In this case, each amplifier will still receive two channels of information from
the preamplifier, but they will both
be the same. The amplifier
dedicated to the left speaker will
now receive a pair of left-channel
outputs from the preamplifier to
feed both its right and left channel.
The second amplifier, dedicated
exclusively to the right speaker, will
then receive a pair of right-channel
outputs from the preamp for both its
left and right input. This can be
achieved in the same manner as
used in the standard configuration, but by simply changing how the two patch
cables are connected to the Y-adapters at the back of the preamp.
You then use each amplifier to run its own speaker rather than having the
tweeters driven by one amp and the woofers by another. You would, for
example, use the left output of the left amp to drive the left speaker’s highs and
the right channel of the left amp to drive the left speaker’s lows. The right side
being a mirror image of the left. No, it is not necessary to use the left channel
for highs and the right for lows, I simply chose them in order to describe the
hook-up.
This method has a distinct advantage over the standard configuration.
Cross-talk (the tendency for one channel to "bleed through" to the other and
thereby cause distortion) in the power amplifiers has effectively been
eliminated. Both channels of each amplifier see identical information, so even
if there is any kind of spurious leak-through of audio between left and right,
because it is the same signal, it cannot create harmonic or inter-modulation
distortions. This configuration offers the highest potential for left and right
separation available from a biamplified setup.
Give it a try. Just adding a second set of speaker cables can uncover
tremendous clarity and increase the focus, staging and imaging in even the
most modest of systems. If you happen to be fortunate enough to have a
second amp lying around, or can afford to add one, go for the biamp method.
You will have moved one step closer to musical nirvana.
...Greg Weaver
gregw@soundstage.com
http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize031998.htm
Contact:
ITOK Media Ltd (Trends Audio)
Unit E, 13/F, World Tech Centre,
95 How Ming Street, Kowloon, Hong Kong.
Tel: (852) 2304 0730
Fax: (852) 2566 5740
Email: sales@TrendsAudio.com
http://www.TrendsAudio.com
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