M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant Page 1 of 9 1 Supplemental Information & Instructions for 2 231-710 or RFK10 Revotec Electric Fan Kit 3 TR 2, 3, 3A, 4 Negative Ground Only 4 Why an Electric Fan Kit? 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 There are generally two reasons for considering an electric fan conversion. The Triumphs are not well known for “keeping their cool” and anytime you boost performance, you generate more heat. If your cooling system was adequate, modifications that boost horsepower will often push it over the edge. When we started developing the Moss Supercharger System for the TR3-4A, we immediately ran into a problem with cooling. Horsepower related cooling problems aside, modifications like the Moss Rack & Pinion Conversion eliminate the stock fan altogether, so looking at fan options quickly becomes looking a electric fan options. There are many to choose from, with wide differences in price. When choosing a fan for the early TR, the first problem is the radiator- it is narrow. Add to that the limited room for a fan between the radiator and the engine, and your choices are really limited. A quick survey of the available fan kits left us looking for something with more air flow and better control. As luck would have it, our English R & D group had already solved our problem. 16 Why a Revotec Fan Kit? 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 It is about value. Revotec and Moss Europe have co-designed a high quality, complete electric fan kit specifically for the TR2-4. Most fan kits are “universal” in that they use fan blades that will pull or push air so they can be mounted in front of or behind the radiator core. Such a fan is a real compromise in terms of performance, but they are convenient and they keep the costs down. We found they just did not move enough air. The Revotec fan in this kit is designed to pull air, not push it, and it moves a large volume of air very efficiently, while drawing about 8.5 amps. Every electric fan uses a temperature sensitive switch to turn the fan on. Most kits use a simple contact sensor, or a probe that pokes through the radiator fins. Neither solution gives accurate readings, but they are inexpensive. Revotec uses a temperature pickup in an aluminum sleeve installed in the radiator hose. This unquestionably provides the fastest and most accurate readings. A short coupler hose and hose clamps are included so you can easily install the sleeve. It is the best (and most costly) way to plumb the sensor, but it is without a doubt the best way to do it. The kits also include an electronic thermostatic controller to enable precise and easy adjustment of the temperature at which the fans come on. Unlike other fan kits that use universal mounting systems, this Revotec kit has custom designed laser cut brackets that mount directly to the stock radiator mounts, making this kit specific to the applications listed. We also include a set of “through-the-radiator” mounts so you can actually install the fan without removing the nose section, should you prefer to do so. This kit also includes the special bolt and spacer needed to replace the standard crank mounted fan and fan extension. The list of the bits included in this kit is long, much longer and more specific than any other kit on the market. 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Understanding Fan Performance Data All fan manufacturers publish performance data. The real testing is done to industry standards, generally using a AMCA Standard 210 Double Chamber. This measures how much air can the fan move, and how much air the fan can move if the air flow is restricted. Air flow is measured in cubic meters per hour (M3/h) and/or cubic feet per minute (cfm). Please refer to Appendix 1 (last page of these instructions) The table starts off with a Static Pressure of zero, meaning there is no restriction on the airflow. This fan will move 1250 cubic meters per hour, or 738 cubic feet per minute under those conditions. As the restriction of the air flow increases, static pressure goes up and the fan moves less air. The reason this second factor matters is that the air flow is restricted in an engine compartment after the air gets through the radiator core. There are no “real world” comparisons of performance of various fans in a car, but this table does provide is a way of comparing fans from different manufacturers, assuming that they are all playing fair. Be wary of performance figures given without reference to static pressure; the numbers may not reflect real world performance. M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 Page 2 of 9 As with all instructions, please read through these carefully before you begin. If you feel that this project is outside your “confidence zone”, please have the installation done by a professional, or enlist the assistance of a fellow TR Club member. If you are not a member of a Club, consider joining. This is the kind of project than many clubs would take on as a “Tech Session” for the benefit of the members. You still have to do the work, but you will have help and knowledgeable advisors to assist. Please use the illustrated list of components to inspect your kit. Identifying each piece now will make assembly much easier. Should you find that you are missing a part, or if you believe you have received something in error, please call Moss Technical Services at (805) 681-3411. Because the contents of this kit are subject to periodic review and revision, any discrepancy noted is probably due to a change in the kit and the content information is out of date. Nevertheless, we need to know so that the instructions may be updated. Contents of the Kit 1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1g 1f 1a 1h 1i 1j 1k 1p 1l 1o 1q 1t 1r 1s 1n 1m M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant 106 Contents of the Kit (October 2010) Ref Moss US 1a NA 1b NA NA 1c NA 1d NA 1e NA 1f NA 1g NA 1h 1i 1j 1k 1l 1m 1n 1o 1p 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 Page 3 of 9 1q 1r 1s 1t NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA Moss Europe NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA TT11321 LWZ410 BH610121 Description Wire, black Female spade connectors Black plastic plug for female spade connectors Sleeve, black plastic Bracket #1 (smaller of the 2) Fasteners, for securing fan directly to radiator core Fan Assembly Female Spade connectors, insulated Ring Connectors, insulated Hose clamps, 32-50mm "Jubilee" (solid band, not perforated) Zip-Ties, 10" Hose, 1 1/2" ID x 2" long Wiring, temp sensor/controller & fan power relay Temp Sensor & Adjustable Electric Fan Controller (EFC) Black Plug, for Controller Relay, fan power Wiring Clip Screws, securing fan to brackets Washers, for screws Nyloc nuts, for screws Bracket #2 (larger of the 2) Spacer, Pulley to Crank Washer, Star, internal tooth, 5/8 BOLT 5/8 UNF X 1.5IN Qty 39" 2 1 1 1 4 sets 1 2 2 3 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 4 4 1 1 1 1 Converting your Triumph from Positive to Negative Ground In order install an electric fan, your car will need to be converted to negative ground.. • Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery • If you have an original radio, remove it. • If you have an ammeter, you’ll need to reverse the wires connected to it. • Some non-original distributors may have a diode across the points rather than a condenser. Reverse the connections to the diode. • If you have converted to an electric fuel pump, make certain it can be reconfigured to work in a negative ground electric system. • Reverse the connections going to the ignition coil: Connect the (-) side of the coil to the wire going to the distributor and the (+) side of the coil to the wire going to the ignition switch. • Check the output of the heater fan; if it is reduced after the conversion, reverse the connections to the heater fan motor. • Take a look at the battery terminals, noting which one is negative. Replace the battery so that the negative battery terminal is closest to the cable strap that attaches directly to the body/chassis. This will be 180º from the orientation of the battery when you removed it. • Re-polarize the Generator. Look at the two wires connected to the generator. Locate the F terminal on the generator; it is the one the smaller brown with a green stripe wire is connected to. Disconnect the two wires from the generator. Temporarily connect one end of a spare piece of wire to the positive terminal of the battery. Touch the other end of this wire to the F terminal on the generator several times, very briefly. You’ll get a few small sparks and that’s ok. This repolarizes the field windings so you get the proper output for a negative ground vehicle. • Reconnect the battery, and reconnect the two wires to the generator they way they were before your disconnected them. Verify that the charging system is functioning properly. Note: It is not necessary to change the leads at the starter motor. The starter uses a series-wound motor that will always rotate the correct way with either polarity. M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant Page 4 of 9 134 Installing the Fan 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 For any TR2-4, the radiator must come out before you can remove the original fan and fan extension. Pulling the radiator means the front apron of the TR2-3B body will have to be removed. Once the original fan is gone, the electric fan can be mounted on the radiator. Preparation – Removing the Original Fan (refer to your workshop manual) • Disconnect the battery and drain the cooling system. • TR2-3B: remove the front apron, bonnet & radiator. • TR4: remove the radiator. • Remove the mechanical fan and fan extension. You will need a 1 1/8” socket for the large bolt on the end of the fan extension. Once the center bolt is loose, you can pull the entire assembly out and put it on the bench. • Loosen the six nuts securing the pulley (2a) and fan extension to the hub (2c) using a 7/16” socket and combination wrench. New bolts (320-080) and nyloc nuts (310-100) are available if needed. • Install the spacer (2d), lock washer (2e), and new center bolt (2f) supplied in the kit. • Reinstall the six bolts, lock washers and nuts (2b), securing the two halves of the pulley (2a) and the spacer (2d) to the hub (2c). • Refit the pulley & hub assembly to the front of the engine. • Thread the center bolt (3a) into the nose of the crank. Tighten the center bolt to 40 lbs /ft. 2a 2b 2c 2e 2f 2d This kit includes the pieces necessary to mount the fan two different ways. The more generic “through-the-core” pins can be used to install the fan (Method 1), or the lasercut steel brackets specifically designed for the Triumph may be used (Method 2). Method 1: Mounting the Fan Using the Through-the-Core Pins (Fig 4) • Hold fan in desired position on rear face of radiator. Push the mounting pins through the lugs on the fan and though the core. • Push the four foam pads and the ratchet buttons onto the tail of each pin which are now protruding through the front of the radiator core. • Pull the tip of the pin toward you as you push the ratchet buttons home. Pull tight until the fan is solidly mounted. With the fan mounted, follow the instructions for fitting the Electronic Fan Controller. They begin immediately below the instructions for mounting the fan using the laser-cut brackets on the next page. 3a Fig 4 M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 Method 2: Mounting the Fan Using the Laser-Cut Brackets 204 REVOTEC ELECTRONIC FAN CONTROL 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 216 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 227 228 229 230 231 232 This unit is intended for use on Negative Ground vehicles only. As with all instructions, read through these carefully before attempting to install the controller on your vehicle. Page 5 of 9 • When reinstalling the radiator, leave the top radiator stays off and leave the bottom radiator mounting bolts loose. • Mount the brackets to the fan using the four bolts, washers and nuts supplied in the kit. Note that the brackets are mounted on the rear of the fan lugs so the fan will be as close to the radiator as possible. • Slide the bottom bracket between the lower radiator mounting points and the chassis mount points (making sure the fan is on the engine side of the radiator!) and push the fan flat up against the radiator. • Pinch the lower mount bolts to hold the assembly in place. • Re-attach the upper stays with the upper fan bracket sandwiched between them and the radiator. With the fan mounted, follow the instructions for fitting the Electronic Fan Controller. 5a 5d 5c INTRODUCTION This sub-kit contains all of the necessary parts to ensure a professional quality installation. There are two main parts which are connected by a wiring harness. The Electronic Fan Control, or EFC (5a) will be mounted in a coolant hose, and 5b the harness connects it to the Fan Power Relay (5b), which will supply the switched 12V feed for the electric fan. The temperature setting is fully adjustable (5c) to suit the requirements of your particular vehicle. Before you begin, ensure that the Revotec controller tube size (5d) is correct for your radiator hose. Note: The direction of coolant flow through the controller is not important. Failure to use the controller with the relay included will void the warranty. Which Hose? Normally, Revotec suggest installing the EFC in the upper radiator hose. However, in the Triumph TR2-4 the upper radiator hose is quite short, and the OE type upper hose (6a) has very pronounced ridges. In addition, the outlet on the engine and the inlet on the radiator are often not perfectly lined up. These factors (individually or collectively) make installing the EFC in the upper hose virtually impossible. The lower hose installation is altogether neater and less obtrusive. The instructions cover the installation of the EFC in the lower hose based on our experience with the Moss TR3. 6a M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant Page 6 of 9 233 Installing the EFC 234 235 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 250 The cooling system was drained as the first step in installing the fan; unless you have refilled it, you can begin. • Remove the steel water return pipe. • Measure 2 ½ inches (65 mm) from the top lip of this pipe and mark it. • Cut the pipe on your mark with a hacksaw. • De-burr the cut edge of the pipe with a suitable file. • Refit the steel tube (7a). • Fit the 2 inch long piece of hose supplied in the kit onto the lower end of the EFC. Secure it with one of the hose clamps supplied in the kit. • Attach the EFC (7c) with the short section of hose (7b) to the shortened steel tube. • Attach the upper hose (7d) between the EFC and the water pump housing. • Tighten all the clamps. • Top up the coolant and check for leaks. 251 Understanding the Wiring and Electrical Connections 252 253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 Before you begin hooking up wires, it will be helpful to understand how this system works. 7 e 7 d 7c 7 b 7 a 8a 4a 8b 8a 8b 8b 4a 8d 4a 8c 8e FAN 8f 8h 8d 8g 12 V Supply 8j 267 268 269 Electric Fan Controller (EFC) 8i 4 M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant Page 7 of 9 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 The power relay (8a) for the fan comes with the electrical plug (8b) attached, and the plug comes with the wiring attached at the relay end. The kit comes with a 39” long piece of black wire (8c), and a bag containing a black plastic plug (8d) and two metal female spade connectors for that plug. The 39” long piece of black wire is simply the ground for the fan. Suitable ring connectors (8e) are included in the kit so you can terminate the ground wire. The terminals are not installed so you can trim the wire to the exact length you need for your installation. The thick blue wire (8f) from the relay is the power wire for the fan. The thick red wire (8g) supplies 12V to the fan relay when the ignition switch is on. The fan is pre-wired with a blue (power) and a black (ground) wire that terminate in a plug with two male spade connectors (8h). The plug is usually marked with a “+” indicating which male spade is attached to the blue power wire; it is a good idea to identify the blue-wire spade before you connect the fan. The Electric Fan Controller or EFC (8i) is the “switch” that trips the relay, sending power to the fan when the temperature reaches the level you set, and cutting the power off when the temperature drops. By powering the fan through the relay, the control unit is protected from the current that would otherwise flow through it on the way to the fan. The control unit is grounded to the chassis through a black wire with a ring connector (8j). 284 Installing the Relay, Connecting the Fan 285 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 316 317 For safety reasons disconnect the vehicle battery when you are carrying out this installation procedure. While there are any number of alternate ways of wiring the fan, bear in mind that this is an engineered package, with components carefully selected to provide the best possible results. Failure to adhere to the recommended wiring instructions will necessarily void the warranty. • • • • • • • • Choose a position for the relay. Ensure that the wire harness with the relay connector will reach your chosen position allowing you route the harness with no strain on the wiring. Keep the wiring away from excessive heat. We mounted the relay to the firewall below the pedal assembly. Mount the relay (8a) using an existing screw, or drill a hole for a suitably sized self tapping screw. Connect the black wire (8j) from the control unit harness to the vehicle chassis. If the mounting screw for the relay is suitable, the ground wire may be secured there. Connect the RED wire (8g) to a fused and switched 12v power supply. It is recommended that the feed is from a “switched” (meaning an ignition switch controlled power supply) so that the controller will not operate when the engine is switched off. If the red wire is connected to an unswitched supply, the controller will continue to operate after the engine is switched off. The fan will either stay on after the key is switched off, or come on if the temperature rises above the temperature set in the controller. This is not unusual as the hot engine will continue to dump heat into the coolant after shut down. The water will continue to circulate slowly, driven by the temperature differential. This may drain the vehicle battery if the fan runs for a long time. Look at the plug attached to the fan motor. (Fig 9) The blue wire is Fig 9 power, the black is ground. Find the bag with the two female spade connectors and the plastic plug. This male plug will plug into the female plug attached to the fan. Connect one of the female spade terminals to the BLUE wire (8f). Pop the connector into the plastic plug (8c) so that the BLUE wire from the relay will connect to the blue wire going to the fan motor. Connect the second female spade terminal to the length of BLACK wire (8c) supplied loose in the kit. Pop this connector into the plastic plug (8d) so that the BLACK wire will connect to the black wire going to the fan motor. Determine where you will ground the black wire (8c). Trim it to length, strip the end, and crimp on one of the ring connectors provided. Secure the fan ground wire. Secure the wiring harness with the cable ties provided. Reconnect the vehicle battery. M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant Page 8 of 9 318 Adjusting the Controller 319 320 321 322 323 324 325 326 327 328 329 330 331 332 333 334 335 336 The operating temperature for the fan is adjusted by turning the small screw (10a) inside the body of the unit. The adjustment screw has a total rotation of just over 3/4 of a turn, which corresponds to a temperature range is 70°C to 120°C (158º F to 248º F). It increases as you rotate the screw in a clockwise direction. Turn the adjuster by hand, using a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver. Do not use excessive force! You can easily damage the controller. • Rotate the screw slowly counterclockwise until it stops. • Start the vehicle and allow the engine to warm up. The fan will come on 10a when the engine coolant temperature reaches about 70°C (158 º F). • Verify the fan controller is working properly by slowly rotating the adjustment screw clockwise until the fan stops. • Continue to increase the setting until the fan remains off when the engine is at normal running temperature. The fan will then come on when the engine temperature exceeds normal. When the temperature recovers, the fan will shut off. Note: This procedure assumes that you have a functioning and accurate temperature gauge; it won’t hurt to verify your temp readings with an infrared temperature sensor or a thermometer in the top tank. • When you have finished with the adjustment and the fan control is operating at the desired temperature fit the black plastic dust cap into the rectangular opening, covering the controller. 337 PLEASE NOTE 338 339 340 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 348 349 350 351 352 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 This fan kit will move enough air to keep a TR2-4 within normal operating temperatures under normal conditions. The premise of this kit is that you have an engine properly tuned and a cooling system that is in good working order. An electric fan is being installed because a) you are installing components (alternator conversion, rack & pinion steering) that require the removal of the stock crank-mounted fan or b) the stock engine driven fan is not capable of moving enough air at idle or in stop-and-go traffic (possibly due to modifications that have boosted the power output). Fig 10 An electric fan absolutely will not cure a chronic overheating problem due to a mechanical problem, tuning issue, or other defects. The Revotec fan and controller cannot compensate for fundamental problems with the engine and/or cooling system. If you think you may have an overheating problem, please download the article on Overheating Triumphs and take the time to figure out exactly what is wrong, and fix it or have it fixed. The article is available on our website www.mossmotors.com. Go to the TR2-4A cooling system web page and open the link. If you have trouble finding the article, contact Moss Technical Services at (805) 681-3411. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and clarity of this information, errors and/or omissions on our part are almost inevitable. Any suggestions that you may have that will improve the information (especially detailed installation notes) are welcome. Please use the simple email form on the “Contact Us” page on the Moss website: http://www.mossmotors.com/AboutMoss/ContactUs.aspx If you prefer, you may call our Technical Services Department at 805-681-3411. So many people call us for help that we are often not able to answer the calls as fast as we’d like, and you may be asked to leave a message. We apologize in advance for the inconvenience. We will get back to you within 2 business days. Moss Motors, Ltd. 440 Rutherford Street, Goleta, California 93117 In the US & Canada Toll Free (800) 667-7872 FAX (805) 692-2510 (805) 681-3400 Moss Europe Ltd. Hampton Farm Industrial Estate, Hampton Road West, Hanworth, Middlesex, TW13 6DB In the UK: 020-8867-2020 FAX: 020-8867-2030 Instruction Sheet 231-710_RFK10 November 2009, Revised October 2010 M:\Product Information\231-710_RFK10\Docs\231-710_RFK10_Supplemental Information.rtf Created by Michael Grant on 10/14/2010 9:17:00 AM Revised 20 October 2010 by Michael Grant Page 9 of 9 Appendix 1: Fan Specifications AXIAL FANS 12V DC 10" 255mm SLIM-LINE PULLER/SUCKER General CAB Part No: 90050223 Revotec No: 255S53 Static Pressure mm H2 O 0 2.5 5 7.5 10 12.5 15 17.5 20 360 361 Airflow M³/h cfm /h 1250 1170 1050 930 850 740 620 500 400 738 690 620 549 502 437 366 295 236 PUSHER/BLOWER General CAB Part No: 90050224 Revotec No: 255B53 Current Amp. Static Pressure mm H2 O 8.5 8.6 8.8 8.6 8.5 8.5 8.6 8.8 9.1 0 2.5 5 7.5 10 12.5 15 17.5 20 Airflow M³/h cfm /h 1220 1110 1070 1020 926 750 694 490 393 720 655 631 602 546 443 409 289 232 Current Amp. 8.4 8.4 8.3 8.5 8.6 8.8 9.2 9.3 9.5
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