Silicones as Protective Agents in Thermal Treatments for Hair

Silicones as Protective Agents in Thermal Treatments for Hair
Silicones as Protective Agents in Thermal Treatments for Hair
Alvaro L.Gomes and Sueli S. Aguiar
Dow Corning Latin America
I - Introduction
Consumers want hair that looks healthy and is easy to manage; however, blow drying, hot
curling, straightening with irons and other styling treatments can generate heat that strips hair of
moisture, leaving it brittle and dry. Dow Corning has completed studies that demonstrate that
silicones can help protect hair from damaging thermal treatments.
II - Background
Silicones Protect Hair from Thermal Treatments and Prevent Moisture Loss
The importance of water on hair:
- Water gives hair a higher thermal capacity and helps maintain hydrogen bonding between
keratin chains.
- Preventing moisture loss may help avoid cuticle cracks and breaks.
- Water retention improves texture and sensory characteristics of hair.
How silicones can help:
The silicones spread easily on hair, provides a contiguous coverage promoting thermal
protection.
Silicones are thermally stable; the protective film that is formed helps prevent water loss.
Their low thermal conductivity prevents quick transfer of heat to inner hair structure.
A slow, even temperature increase gives better heat distribution along hair fiber.
Silicones that hold more water within hair are best for reducing temperature increases.
Silicone Solutions for Protective Products
Several silicones can protect hair from thermal treatments and prevent moisture loss. The
silicones that we have studied are the following:
- Silicone Quaternium-16 (and) Butyloctanol
- Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone
- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Amodimethicone
- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol
- { PAGE } III - Results
III.1 - TGA Demonstration of Moisture Retention
Thermo gravimetric analysis (TGA) was conducted to compare the ability of silicones to prevent
moisture loss.
III.1.a – Procedure:
0.125 g silicone per g of hair applied to hair tress.
Dynamic mode, 25ºC to 300ºC, heating speed = 10ºC/min. Results: traditional curves
(% mass X temperature) and derivatives.
III.1.b – Results:
TGA dynamic analysis
12.0%
Loss of mass
10.0%
70C
120C
160C
8.0%
6.0%
4.0%
2.0%
0.0%
No silicone
Amodimethicone
Aminopropyl Phenyl
Trimethicone
Silicone Quaternium16 (and) Butyloctanol
At 70ºC, 120ºC and 160ºC, TGA results show reduced weight loss from hair treated with
silicones.
III.2 - Sensory Evaluations Verify Protection
III.2.a – Procedure:
0.125 g silicone per g of hair applied to hair tress.
5 thermal stress cycles: 5 min brushing + 6 (15 sec) on steel plates; tips, middle and roots.
1 min water soak, 1 wash with SLES.
- { PAGE } III.2.b – Results:
Sensory Attributes - before shampooing
Reference tress - non treated
Sensorial feeling
5
Reference tress - thermally
treated
Aminophenyl Trimethicone
2.5
Shine
Detangling
0
Amodimethicone
Silicone Quaternium-16 and
emulsifiers
Static
Combability
Cyclopentasiloxane and
Dimethiconol and dimethicone
crosspolymer
Cyclopentasiloxane and
Dimethiconol
Before Shampooing:
Untreated reference tress: poorest performance in all attributes.
Thermally treated reference tress (w/o silicone): comparable to silicone-treated tresses in shine
and smoothness (the poorest performance for detangling, combability and static).
Three materials perform best in almost every attribute:
- Amodimethicone,
- Aminopropyl phenyltrimethicone, and
- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (and) dimethicone crosspolymer
After Shampooing:
Sensory Atributes - after shampooing
Reference tress - non-treated
Reference tress - thermally
treated
Sensorial feeling
5
Aminophenyl Trimethicone
2.5
Shine
Detangling
Amodimethicone
0
Silicone Quaternium-16 and
emulsifiers
Static
Combability
Cyclopentasiloxane and
Dimethiconol and dimethicone
crosspolymer
Dimethiconol and
Cyclopentasiloxane
- { PAGE } Thermally treated reference tress (w/o silicone): degraded in all parameters, especially shine and
smoothness.
Silicone-treated tresses maintained their sensory profiles.
Tress treated with amodimethicone improved in smoothness and detangling.
Best in detangling:
- Amodimethicone,
- Aminopropyl phenyltrimethicone, and
- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (and) dimethicone crosspolymer
III.3 - SEMs Illustrate Protection by Silicones
III.3.a – Procedure:
Samples of brown Caucasian hair were treated with 3 thermal stress cycles:
5 min brushing + 6 (15 seconds) on steel plates; tips, middle and roots
1 min water soak, 1 min wash with SLES
III.3.b – Results:
Without the silicone protection
With the silicone protection
Without Protection:
Cuticles of untreated hair appear rough and damaged.
Protected with Silicone: Cuticles of silicone-treated hair appear smooth and undamaged.
IV - Conclusion
Silicone Innovation for Next-Generation Hair Care
Silicones are multifunctional ingredients that protect hair against heat generated by thermal
treatments—and also prevent moisture loss. These versatile, high performance materials can
help formulators create the next generation of innovative hair care products that help hair retain
its moisture and sensory characteristics.
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