Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
November, 2014
Contains October, 2014 Minutes
NO MEMBERS OR VISITORS SHALL ENTER OR
EXIT THE CAMP VIA THE CHRISTMAN ROAD ENTRANCE. MEMBERS MUST ENTER AND EXIT
FROM MT.PLEASANT ROAD.
Our volunteers this year were Ray Marr, Lee Grant,
Dave Wells, Harold McMillian, Ben Fix, and Bill Stone.
Next year the topics will be based on education issues.
BUCKEYE WOODWORKERS
AND WOODTURNERS
October 11, 2014
Today we will have a 4 stage demo with lathes spotted
around the room. The purpose of today's demo will
be to show how to make some Christmas ornaments
for the upcoming season. Dave Wells, Mark
Stransky, Ben Fix, and Jerry Schaible will provide the
demos.
Anyone wishing to submit pictures for the
newsletter please send them to the editor within
two days of the meeting
The meeting was called to order by Pres. Bill
Seabolt at 9 AM. He requested that any visitors
should identify themselves and there were five visitors in attendance. He wished that they would have
a good time at our meeting and encouraged them to
join our club if they desired.
Pres. Seabolt informed the club that the Tennessee
Woodturners will be having a symposium in January
2015. He encouraged members to pick up the flyers
that are available for further information about the
event.
It was noted that North Coast Woodturners had a representative from the Pittsburgh wood turning club visit
them and explained that the AAW Symposium will be
held in Pittsburgh in the coming year. They requested that any volunteers from the Cleveland group
would certainly be appreciated to help put on this
symposium. The representative has requested to
speak to the Buckeye Woodturning group in the near
future. This request is being taken under advisement
by the executive committee.
Bill Stone, VP, gave a summary of the Paul Bunyan
Show in Cambridge Ohio. He stated that it was a 3
day event at the county fairgrounds. Our presence
was in support of Jim Doll and his staff as they put on
the festivities. We volunteer our time so that we can
do some wood turning and also represent our club.
The November meeting will be held on Nov. 8, and
Dave Hout will be presenting a metal spinning demo.
There will be a Hands On activity in the afternoon for
those who are interested and submit the $5 fee to
Mark Stansky, Treasurer. Dave will share some of
the closely held secrets of the metal spinning community. You will be making a wood form on which you
will be spinning the flat piece of metal. Several people signed up for the afternoon event during the meeting. If you are interested in this hands on activity,
contact Mark Stransky to sign up.
Pres. Seabolt informed the group that we received a
Thank You note from Becky McCardel. She said that
“Larry was always proud to belong to the BWWT club”.
She also thanked the members for helping with the
sale of all his tools and machines for woodturning.
Bill Stone, a member of the nominating committee,
stated that Richard Rohr was nominated for V. Pres.
of BWWT. Treasurer, Mark Stransky, and Sec. Jerry
Schaible, had indicated that they would run again for
their respective offices. There will be a vote taken in
the Nov. meeting, at which time nominations from the
floor will be taken. It was noted that if anybody wished
to nominate an individual outside of the current slate
that they had to get their permission prior to the Nov.
meeting date. The elected officials will then be able
to sit in at the Executive Meeting in December and
begin to take office in January of 2015.
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Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
The name tag drawing was won by Dave Conroy and
he received a gift certificate to Hartville Hardware.
well as some wood from the Larry McCardel inventory
sale.
There was a request by some individual to turn a cabbage stomper. If interested, you should see Bill
Seabolt or Bill Stone.
The Show and Tell part of the meeting was held and
Bob Stone, Chuck Nunley, and Tom Nellis were
asked to explain their projects for this month. Bob
Stone selected his 12” diameter piece which was a
maple bowl with bark inclusions. He had put two
coats of sanding sealer on the piece and stated that
he will add some shellac later to increase the finished look.
Treasurer, Mark Stransky, reported our balance on our
BWWT account. He also stated that there is some
tool steel for sale and that annual dues are to be paid
in Nov. and Dec.
The raffle was held and a total of 48 winners selected
their prizes of the month.
Chuck Nunley described his segmented vase. He
indicated that this was the first time he had completed a segmented piece. He used a poly wipe on
finish for a gloss look.
Respectfully submitted
Jerry Schaible, Sec.
Tom Nellis showed his Ambrosia maple platter that
was turned from a blank that was 11” by 2” and
eventually produced a 10” piece. He had 4 coats of
poly on the piece as well as one coat of Renaissance
wax. He said that he used the Beall Buffing System
to buff out the piece. He used brown tripoli, and
white diamond compounds to buff the piece.
Dave Wells……Acorn Birdhouse
Bill Stone indicated that he had some very nice Yew
wood from two trees that were offered by a friend of
the club. He said that he will be able to pick them
up in a couple of weeks and that the pieces should
be ready for the next meeting or possibly the December meeting at the latest. He indicated that he had
read some very nice aspects about this wood and
that he would try to get as much as he could for the
members.
Pres. Seabolt indicated that there were a couple of
dates that we should keep in mind. On October 27,
28, and 29, there will be a 20% off bag sale at Hartville Hardware. Anything that you can put in this
bag, will receive the sales discount. On November
21 & 22, Hartville Hardware will have their Tool Sale,
with all machinery and tools discounted by the manufacturers. There will also be factory reps on hand to
explain the attributes of their equipment. Our club
will have a booth where we can demonstrate woodturning techniques.
Pres. Seabolt stated that we do have brochures
available to read about the value of belonging to the
AAW. He encouraged anyone that is interested in
joining the national wood turning organization to see
Mark Stransky.
It was made known by the president that much of the
wood on the raffle table was given by Jim Doll as
The following instructions were submitted by Dave to
construct an Acorn Birdhouse with an icicle…...
1. Select a hardwood blank that is straight grained. It
should be cut to measure 1.5” X 1.5” X 7” long. Locate the center of each end of the blank.
2. Place the spindle between centers with a drive center at the head stock and a ball bearing center at the
tailstock. Using a half inch spindle gouge or a roughing gouge, turn down the corners to provide a round
spindle. Make a tenon on both ends of the spindle.
3. Remove the turned down spindle from the lathe and
remove the drive center from the headstock. Place a
4 jaw chuck of choice on the headstock and place a
tenon end of the spindle in the chuck.
4. Drill at the top end with a 5/64 inch drill bit placed in
a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock. Drill a hole about 1
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Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
½ inches to 2 inches deep.
5. Turn the spindle, end for end, in the chuck so that
the 5/64 inch hole is in the scroll chuck and bring up
the tailstock.
6. Begin forming the finial / icicle with a small spindle
gouge and sand smooth.
7. Complete the icicle in ¾” or 1” increments. Sand
each section before moving on to the next section.
8. Shape the acorn.
9. Drill a birdhouse opening in the acorn. Use a ¼”
brad point drill bit and drill about ½” deep.
10. Below the opening, drill a small hole for the
perch. Use a 3/32” drill bit for the perch hole.
11. Shape the acorn cap and undercut the bottom.
12. Texture the acorn cap with a chatter tool, if you
so desire.
13. Sand the acorn to desired finished surface.
14. Shape the acorn stem and stand.
15. Part off the lathe with a parting tool.
16. Glue the perch and wire eyelet or screw eye in
the acorn stem.
17. Apply finish of choice.
Jerry Schaible….. Hollow Christmas Ornaments
Jerry turned the hollow ornaments using limb wood
that was fresh cut or using dry wood will work just as
well. A blank was selected that was curly maple.
Other woods with unique grain patterns or irregularities will make very nice ornaments also. The wood
segment is placed between centers using a multi
spur drive center or one can also use a 4 pronged
drive center in the head stock and a ball bearing
center in the tailstock. If any bark is present, it is
removed using a ½ inch spindle gouge, or a roughing
gouge. Once the bark was removed, he took a special
ground parting tool and made a tenon at one end of
the blank. He cut a dovetail tenon so that it would fit
in the scroll chuck. The blank was mounted in the
scroll jaws and the ball bearing drive center from the
tailstock was brought up for support and a safe turning
procedure. The turning blank was turned to approximately 2 ½ inches in diameter. I pencil was used to
mark off the length of the globe at approximately two
inches. A somewhat squatty appearance is desired
rather than a completely round design. Leave a tenon of about 1 inch to the waste block for support
when hollowing is begun. After the globe has been
shaped, then it is sanded with 120 grit and then moving through all the grits until 320 grit is reached. The
globe could be finished with shellac or HUT finish if
desired. Jerry prefers to
wait until the complete ornament is made and then finish
is applied with a spray can of
poly. The hollowing of the
globe will be the next step.
He measures the exterior of
the globe height and subtracts the wall thickness.
This distance is marked on
the 3/8” or ½” drill bit. This
drill bit is mounted in the Jacobs chuck and placed in the
tail stock for the drilling procedure. He drills out the
center of the globe with the
drill and removes the chips
as he is drilling so that he does not overheat the interior of the globe. He then removes the tailstock and
drill from the lathe for safety while hollowing the interior of the globe. The tool rest is placed slightly above
the opening of the drill hole. He uses a ¼” bedan that
was made from tool steel sold at the club meetings.
The bedan has a 45 degree bevel on the front and a
convex grind along the lower corner of the tool. This
is so that it will not interfere with the interior of the
rounded globe walls. He used a push cut into the
side of the drill hole and swung the tool towards the
center of the hole with a sweeping style of cut. He
continued the same technique until he reached the
wall thickness desired on the interior. He stopped
several times to clean out the chips that had built up
on the inside. This happens more frequently on wet
wood then dry. These chips will have to be removed
or they will pack against the interior wall and cause a
catch of the tool and possibly break the thin walls of
the globe. It is important in the hollowing experience
that the fulcrum of the tool occurs at the opening of the
hole and not on the tool rest or near the fingers. In any
case, do not allow the shank of the tool to touch the
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Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
sides of the hole opening or it will widen the hole or
possibly break the thin globe walls. After the globe
hollowing has been complete, then it is time to cut
the globe free from the waste block. Use the same
drill as before, and mount it in the tailstock which
has been placed back on the lathe. Insert the drill
into the hole and drill the hole 1 inch deeper and
then back out the drill slightly. Use a skew with the
long point down, and cut away at the tenon until
there is a smooth appearance and surface at the top
of the globe. The last cut should be near the globe
and push the toe of the skew into the motionless drill
bit. This technique will not hurt the skew since neither one is in motion……it is the globe that is turning.
The next step is to make the icicles Jerry places
them between centers on the 4 pronged drive center
or the multi-spur drive. He turns the top cap first on
the tailstock end of the blank which measures ¾ x ¾
x 7 inches long. He will stop the lathe and measure
the opening of the globe hole to the tenon on the top
icicle. When a good fit occurs, he will turn a simple
top of two
beads, one
smaller than the
other. There
should be a
tight fit between
the icicle and
the globe or one
may have to
undercut the
flange somewhat. The
lower icicle is
turned with a
small 3/8” spindle gouge. He
uses to beads near the top. One half bead next to
the tenon, a small bead below that, and another half
bead as a gradual sloping moves to the bottom of
the icicle. There will be a very small ball turned on
the extreme bottom or tip of the icicle. After turning
the icicle, it is sanded through the grits and then is
ready to be removed from the lathe with a parting
tool. The three parts are glued together and set
aside to dry. A spray lacquer or spray poly is used
to cover the piece. Usually five thin coats of finish
are used or until one is satisfied that all parts are
covered. Several days are allowed for the drying
time. Later they are given a Beall buffing with brown
Tripoli or white diamond compound. A small eyelet
is made from 20 or 22 gauge wire and molded over
an 8 penny nail. The bottom of the eyelet is twisted
until the wire is tight. These are very delicate and
work well in design as opposed to the eyelets that
one can purchase. They seem to be rather heavy in
appearance.
Give an ornament to a friend and watch their eyes
light up. They will be much appreciative. Write your
name on the bottom of the globe as well as the date
and the name of the wood species used.
Next up is a George Raeder Style Christmas
Tree Ornament submitted by Mark Stransky.
Materials
 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 4” spindle blank
 5mm screw eye
Finish of choice
Tools and equipment
 Safety glasses or face shield
 4 jaw chuck
 Spindle roughing gouge
 ½” spindle gouge
 3/8” spindle gouge
 1/16” narrow parting tool
 3/16” parting tool
 Pin drill with very small drill bit
 Small carving gouge
Sandpaper – 100, 150 and 220 grit
The process
 USE ALL REQUIRED SAFETY AND PERSONAL
PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT!
 Securely mount the spindle blank in the 4 jaw
chuck. Make sure the blank does not contact the tool
rest while the blank is spinning.
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Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
 Use the spindle roughing gouge and ½” spindle
gouge to turn the blank round.
 Use the ½” spindle gouge to shape the rounded
blank in the approximate shape of a pine tree.
 Shape the top of the tree as desired. Be sure to
make a detail that will accommodate the screw eye
that will be on the top.
 Sand the shape of the tree and the top of the
tree through all of the sanding grits.
Ben Fix ornaments submitted by Jerry
Schaible, Sec.
Ben produced several small miniature ornaments for use during the holiday season.
 Use the 1/16” narrow parting tool to cut into the
shape of the tree down to the trunk diameter. Space
the cuts into the tree as desired. I usually make
them about 1/16” to 3/32” or whatever the spacing
works out to.
 Use the 3/16” parting tool to turn the trunk at the
bottom of the tree and also the diameter of the tree
base.
 Sand the edges of the grooves to remove any
sharp or rough edges.
 Use the pin drill and small drill bit to drill a hole
in the top of the tree to accept the 5mm screw eye.
 Shape the base at the bottom of the tree as desired.
 Sand the base of the tree as desired. You may
want to leave the trunk unsanded to show the grain
of the tree bark.
 Apply the wood finish as desired.
 Begin to part off the tree from the blank below
the tree base. Sand the edge of the base where you
started the parting cut to remove any sharp edges.
Apply the wood finish as needed to that area.
 Complete parting the tree from the blank. Use
the small carving gouge to trim any leftover from the
parting cut.
 Assemble the screw eye to the top of the tree.
Hang your new tree ornament where it will look best.
Miniature Acorn.
1. First Ben collected some small acorn caps that
had fallen to the ground during the fall of the
year. He needed the caps so that he could fit
them on the small body of the acorn that he
was going to turn from hardwood. The hardwood that he selected was a soft maple.
2. He cut some blanks that were about 1” X 1” X
6” in length. He placed them between centers using a small muli-toothed spur center for
the headstock and a ball bearing drive center
for the tailstock. He would use a small spindle
gouge or a small roughing gouge to remove
the corners of the blank.
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Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
3. Then he turned the body of the acorn so that
it would fit inside the cap of the true tree
acorn. This dimension would be approximately ¾”, however a test fit would be a
more appropriate measurement.
4. When the body of the acorn fit properly, then
he would finish cut the acorn body with a
small spindle gouge and put a small taper
on it to get the shape of an acorn at the bottom. This would be sanded and then finished.
5. He then made a small eyelet from 20 gauge
wire bent over a small 8 penny or 16 penny
nail. He would use a 1 ½” length of wire
and twist the loose ends / tails until the eyelet was formed. Then he would drill a very
small hole with a drill bit and twist the end of
the eyelet into the hole. This hole was
placed next to the stem on the natural acorn
cap. The eyelet was glued into position.
The wire can be purchased in a roll from
JoAnn Fabrics, Pat Catans, or Michaels.
November 2014
small 3/8” spindle gouge for this step. Sand
the complete bulb until it is smooth. Use fine
0000 steel wool to shine up the brass tube
fitting.
7. Before parting the bulb from the rough spindle,
color the bulb with a bright color. Using
marking pencils purchased at the craft store
and with the lathe running, place the tip of the
color pen against the bulb and allow the color
to transfer to the wood. Then with a contrasting color, mark some thin lines around the
bulb and make sure that they are evenly
spaced.
8. Drill a small tiny hole in the top of the bulb. This
hole should be just big enough to allow the
eyelet stem to be inserted. With some glue of
choice…..glue the eyelet in position.
Miniature Angel
1. Cut a blank that is 1 ¼” X 1 ¼” X 6 inches long
from a fancy type wood, like birdseye maple,
or curly maple or curly cherry.
Miniature Christmas Lights.
1. Cut a blank that is 1” X 1” by 6 inches long.
Use a straight grained hardwood. Soft maple would be an excellent choice.
2. Use a spindle gouge or roughing gouge to remove the corners and conclude by making a
round spindle.
2. Place blank between centers, using a small
multi spur center in the head stock and a
ball bearing center in the tailstock.
3. Turn the spindle until it is 1 1/8” in diameter.
4. Mark off a pencil line that is two inches from the
end near the tailstock. Manually spin the
hand wheel to make a circle completely
around the spindle.
3. Lay out the measurements so that there is
mark at approximately 1 ¾ inches from the
end. This will be approximately the full
length of the light bulb.
5. Using a small 3/8” bowl gouge, turn a small ball
at the end of the spindle that is 5/8” in diameter. This will represent the had of the angel.
Narrow the cut to the neck of the angel.
4. Turn a tenon on the end so that it is approximately ½” long and 3/8” in diameter.
6. Create a shoulder coverlet that will drape down
over the shoulder of the angel. This is a tapered cut that is slopping down toward the
shoulders and creates a diameter of 1”.
5. Use a small brass tube with a 3/8” inside
measurement and cut a ½” long segment.
Test fit the tenon so that the small tube segment will fit over the end. This will replicate
the threaded fitting of a light bulb that
screws into a socket.
4. Use a parting tool to cut the bottom of the
shoulder coverlet. Push the parting tool toward the upper body of the angel at 7/8 inch
below the top of the head. The upper body or
6. Turn a tear drop light bulb shape on the remaining 1 ¼” of the spindle stock. Use a
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Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
chuck. Drill a hole of approximately 1 inch
deep.
top of the angel gown should have a diameter slightly larger than ½”.
8. At 1 ¾” down from the top of the angel head,
draw another line around the spindle. This
is the widest diameter of the flared gown.
Use a small 3/8” spindle gouge and pivot the
tip from the widest part [ 1 1/8” ] of the gown
to the narrow shoulder area in a sweeping
style cut or arc.
9. Use a small spindle gouge to cut a small
sweeping cut for the under skirt or gown
area. This is approximately 3/16” thick under the widest part of the gown. Make the
sweeping bottom cut to finish out with a ¼”
tenon at the feet of the angel. Sand all
parts to a smooth finish. Make a parting cut
here with a parting tool to create a flat spot
for the angel to sit upright without rolling on
the table top.
10. Create a small flat area with a sander on the
head area to represent the face of the angel.
Make this flat spot at a 45 degree angle to
the center of the piece.
11.Wipe the completed angel with finish of
choice.
Miniature Ornament Stand
1. Cut a blank that is 3” X 3” X 6” long. True
up the spindle blank with a spindle gouge or
a roughing gouge so that it makes a 3 inch
cylinder. Measure off a ¼” segment from
the tailstock end of the lathe.
2. Use a pencil to make a mark completely
around the cylinder by spinning the hand
wheel.
3. With a ball bearing center in the tailstock and
used for support, cut a taper on the end of
the cylinder so that it comes back to the
edge with about a 1/8” taper to the cut.
Sand and finish this outside surface.
4. Drill a small 1/16” hole in the center of the
spindle with a drill bit held in a Jacobs
Page 7
5. Bring up the tailstock for support. Using a parting tool, cut a groove into the spindle at the
line previously marked at ¼”. This cut
should be slightly tapered or recessed so that
it will stand firm at the end of the rim on a table and therefore not rock back and forth.
Make this a clean cut. This will be the base
to the ornament stand.
6. Cut an 8 or 9 inch piece of decorative wire.
This can be purchased from any craft supply
store. Make sure that it is about 20 gauge or
thicker to make a supportive stand for the ornaments.
7. Bend the wire so that it will fit down into the
center hole of the base and then sweep upwards in a wide curve. Make a hook effect
curl at the top so that the eyelet can fit over
the wire and stay secure in the hanging. Glue
the wire in position at the base with thick CA
glue to hold it secure.
Buckeye Woodworkers & Woodturners Newsletter
November 2014
Calendar of Events
PLEASE NOTE
BWWT MEETINGS ARE HELD ON
THE SECOND SATURDAY OF EACH
MONTH BEGINNING AT 9:00AM
BWWT OFFICERS
FOR 2014
President
Bill Seabolt
330-517-7070
lazybolt@GMAIL.com
November 8, 2014 ….Dave Hout will demo
“metal spinning” Hands - on to follow.
December 13, 2014……Ben Fix, Skew
demo
Vice President
Bill Stone
330-896-3687
wilsto@neo.rr.com
January 10, 2014……Tim Niewiadomski,
Square bowl
February 14, 2014….George Raeder, vacuum chucks
Secretary
Gerald Schaible
330-673-6512
gschaible001@neo.rr.com
March 14, 2014……Dave Wells, using a
bearing to support spindle turning.
Treasurer
Mark Stransky
330-688-1690
mastran@neo.rr.com
NO MEMBERS OR VISITORS
SHALL ENTER OR EXIT THE
CAMP VIA THE CHRISTMAN
ROAD ENTRANCE. MEMBERS
MUST ENTER AND EXIT FROM
MT.PLEASANT ROAD.
Librarian
Dirk Falther
330-310-4570
dfalther3@att.net
Librarian
Bob Hasenyager
330-334-8314
bobhasenyager@gmail.com
Equipment For Sale:
Newsletter Editor
Bob Stone
330-928-3221
bstone@neo.rr.com
1. A DeWalt 13 inch, two speed planer. Model
DW735 X …New price of $650……asking $450.
2. A Powermatic 6” jointer with an extra set of
blades...New price of $1019….asking $500.
Web Master
John Adams
440-838-1122
JADAMS@NACS.NET
If interested contact lifetime BWWT Member, Leslie Smith at 330-852-6011
Membership Admin.
Phil Brower
330-688-7244
fbtoad@aol.com
Page 8
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