STEVENS racing bicycle, cyclocross bicycle User manual
Racing bicycles and cyclocross bicycles are designed for a maximum overall weight of 115 kg including rider, luggage and bicycle. It is important to be familiar with the brake system, gear system and proper saddle and handlebar adjustment before riding. Be sure to practice using the brakes off public roads!
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B E D I E N U N G S A N L E I T U N G
HANDBUCH
RACING MACHINES
CYCLOCROSS
Racing bicycles – EN 14781
STEVENS USER MANUAL
PLEASE OBSERVE THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS:
Read pages 7 and 8 before your first ride
Have the bike card signed by your dealer
Observe the notes on warranty and maintenance from page 66 on
B
Editor
STEVENS Vertriebs GmbH
Asbrookdamm 35
D-22115 Hamburg
Phone: +49 (0)40-716070-0
Fax: +49 (0)40-465314 [email protected]
www.stevensbikes.de
The author
At Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH everybody is focused on bicycles.
As a publicly appointed and sworn bicycle expert managing director
Dirk Zedler elaborates expert’s reports for courts, insurance companies, companies and private customers. In Germany’s specialist magazine TOUR, Europe’s biggest road bike magazine he publishes test reports and reports for technicians.
In addition, the mechanical engineer advises manufacturers on technical matters relating to security and supports them in development and research. On the basis of the maxim “Not only in theory, but also in practice” Dirk Zedler uses his bicycle or the train for nearly all ways. In his spare leisure time you see him regularly on his mountain bikes or road racing machines.
Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH
Phone: +49 (0)7141-29 99 27-0 • Fax: +49 (0)7141-29 99 27-30 [email protected] • www.zedler.de
Imprint
Edition 14, 2014
Editor: STEVENS Vertriebs GmbH
© Text, concept, photos and graphic design: Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH
Technical details in the text and illustrations of these operating instructions are subject to change.
Liability of the editor, the editorial team and other third parties for contributions in this booklet and resulting damage whatsoever shall be excluded, unless in the event of gross negligence. No part of this publication may be reprinted, translated, copied or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, by hand or otherwise for another business purpose without prior written permission of the author and the editor.
1
Table of Contents
Component Description ...................................................................4
1. General Safety Instructions ....................................................5
1.1. Before Your First Ride ...................................................................... 7
2. Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads ........................ 9
3. Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider ......................................... 11
3.1. Sloping Geometry – How to Determine or Measure the Frame Size ......11
3.1.1. Rule of Thumb to Determine the Suitable STEVENS Road Racing Frame Size: ..... 12
3.1.2. Rule of Thumb to Determine the Suitable Saddle Height: .................................. 12
3.2. Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height .......................................12
3.3. Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars ............................................14
3.3.1. Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset®-System* .................................... 14
3.4. Correcting the Fore-to-Aft Position and Tilt of the Saddle ...................16
3.5. Adjusting the Pressure Point of the Brake ........................................17
3.6. Adjusting the Tilt of the Handlebars and Brake Levers ........................17
4. The Pedal Systems ............................................................... 19
4.1. Functioning of Step-In Pedals .........................................................19
4.2. Adjustment and Maintenance ..........................................................20
5. The Brake System ................................................................ 21
5.1. Functioning and Wear of Rim Brakes ................................................21
5.2. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing Racing and/or Side-Pull
Brakes ...........................................................................................22
5.3. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing Cantilever Brakes ...............23
5.4. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing Mini V-Brakes .....................24
5.5. What to Bear in Mind with Brake Levers on Cyclocross Bicycles ............26
5.6. Mechanical and Hydraulic Disc Brakes ...............................................27
5.6.3. Checking and Readjusting in the Case of Mechanical Disc Brakes ....................... 28
5.6.4. Checking and Readjusting in the Case of Hydraulic Disc Brakes .......................... 29
6. The Gears ............................................................................ 31
6.1. General Information on Derailleur Gears ..........................................31
6.2. Functioning and Operation ..............................................................32
6.3. Checking and Readjusting the Mechanical Gears ................................34
6.5. Chain Maintenance .........................................................................38
7. The Wheels ......................................................................... 39
7.1. Tyres, Tubes, Rim Tapes, Valves, Inflation Pressure .............................39
7.2. Rim Trueness, Spoke Tension ...........................................................41
2
7.3. Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases ..............................................41
8. The Headset ........................................................................ 48
8.1. Checking the Bearing Play ...............................................................48
8.2. Adjusting the Threadless Headset: Aheadset® Headsets ......................48
9. Special Characteristics of Carbon and Framesets ..................... 50
9.2. Aluminium and Carbon Framesets ....................................................51
9.3. STEVENS Carbon Forks .....................................................................53
9.3.2. Mounting Forks with CRP Steerer Tube from the STEVENS Frameset .................. 54
9.4. STEVENS Scorpo and Campagnolo Carbon Wheels ...............................55
9.4.1. What to Bear in Mind When Braking With Carbon Wheels ................................. 55
9.5. Ritchey Handlebars Made of Carbon .................................................57
9.6. Ritchey Seat Posts Made of Carbon ...................................................59
10. Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling .................. 60
10.2. Transporting Luggage .....................................................................60
10.4. Bicycle Transport by Car ..................................................................61
10.5. Bicycle Transport in a Bicycle Case or in a Sturdy Bicycle Carton ...........62
11. Warranty and Guarantee for STEVENS Bicycles ........................ 66
11.3. Warranty Rules of STEVENS Vertriebs GmbH .......................................67
12. General Notes on Care and Servicing ...................................... 69
12.1. Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle ..................................................69
12.2. Safekeeping and Storing the Bicycle ................................................69
13. Service and Maintenance Schedule ....................................... 70
14. Recommended Torque Settings ............................................. 72
14.1. Recommended Torque Settings for Disc Brakes and Hydraulic
Rim Brakes ....................................................................................74
14.2. Maximum Torque Settings of Standard Bolts .....................................75
15. Service Schedule ................................................................. 76
Bike Card ..................................................................................... 78
Handover Report .......................................................................... 79
Imprint .........................................................................................1
3
Seat post
Seat post clamp
Rear wheel brake
Cassette sprockets
5
4
Saddle
3
Component Description
Stem Frame
1 Top tube
2 Down tube
3 Seat tube
4 Rear stay
5 Chainstay
6 Head tube
6
1
Handlebars
2
Brake lever/shifter
Headset
Front wheel brake
Valve
Quick-release
}
Hub
Tyre
Rim
Spoke
Wheel
4
Rear derailleur Chain Front derailleur Crankset
1. General Safety Instructions
Dear Customer,
In purchasing this STEVENS bicycle you have chosen a product of high quality and technology. Each component of your new bicycle has been designed, manufactured and assembled with great care and expertise.
Your STEVENS dealer gave the bicycle its final assembly and adjustment to guarantee proper operation and many enjoyable riding experiences with complete peace of mind from the very first metres.
This manual contains a wealth of information on the proper use of your bicycle, its maintenance and operation as well as interesting details about bicycle design and engineering. Please read this brochure thoroughly; you will find it worth your while; even if you have cycled all your life and feel like a veteran with your new bike. Bicycle technology has developed at a rapid pace during recent years.
Therefore, before setting off on your new bicycle, be sure to read at least the chapter “Before Your First Ride“.
To have as much fun as possible during cycling, be sure to carry out the minimum functional check described in chapter “Before Every Ride” before setting off.
When doing any maintenance and repair work, be aware that the detailed instructions provided in your manual only refer to this bicycle. The information included here is not applicable to any other bicycle. Due to numerous designs and model changes, it may be that some of the routines are not described in every detail.
Be sure to also observe the instructions of the component suppliers on the STEVENS CD-ROM that you have received from your STEVENS dealer.
Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, depending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work. For some jobs you may require additional (special) tools or supplementary instructions.
Before you set off, let us point out a few things that are very important to every cyclist: Always ride carefully on public roads so as not to endanger yourself or others. Always observe the traffic rules and make sure not to meet the discontent of other road users. Please respect nature when riding off-road with your cyclocross bicycle. Only use your bicycle on signposted, well maintained and hard-surface trails. Observe the legal regulations concerning off-road cycling. These regulations may differ in each country. Never ride without a properly adjusted helmet and take care to always wear suitable clothing. As a minimum you should wear straight cut trousers and shoes matching the step-in pedals. Have a lot of fun with your new STEVENS bicycle!
General Safety Instructions
Caution:
For your own safety, never do any work unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt, ask your
STEVENS dealer for help!
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General Safety Instructions
1. General Safety Instructions
First we would like to familiarise you with the various components used on your bicycle.
Please unfold the cover of this manual. Here you will find the illustration of a bicycle showing all the essential components. Leave the page unfolded as you read. This means that you can quickly find in the text the component that is being referred to.
Today’s bicycles come in various types that are designed for specific uses and fitted accordingly. This user manual includes the following bicycle types:
• Road racing bicycles
• Cyclo-cross bicycles
• Triathlon/time trial bicycles
• Track racing machines
Before Your First Ride
1.1. Before Your First Ride
a. Our STEVENS road racing and cyclocross bicycles are designed for a maximum overall weight of 115 kg including rider, luggage and bicycle. The following weight limits for the rider including equipment and
STEVENS bicycle apply to special racing wheels:
Citec, Scorpo, Mavic, Fulcrum: 110 kg
DT Swiss RC 38 Spline C and Lightweight Meilenstein: 100 kg
For Campagnolo and Miche wheels it is recommended from a rider’s weight of 82 kg on to shorten the service intervals in agreement with your STEVENS dealer.
Caution: Comet SL 85 kg!
b. Always use your bicycle for its intended and typical use. Road racing,
triathlon bicycles and time trial machines are intended to be used on public roads and trails with tarred or paved surface. Observe the traffic rules when riding on public roads.
Cyclocross bicycles are also suitable for off-road cycling on gravel field and forest tracks, however, not for rough terrain. They are not suitable for mountain bike use, namely for all mountain enduro, downhill (DH), freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc.
Due to their design and fittings cyclocross bicycles are not suitable for being used on public roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle on public roads, it must be fitted with the devices and equipment prescribed for this purpose (see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads”).
Track bicycles are true-bred sports bikes and only intended for use on enclosed race tracks. The use of track bicycles on public roads or lanes is not permitted.
c. Are you familiar with the brake system? Have a look at the bike card and check whether the brake lever of the front brake is on the side you are used to (right or left). If it is not, you will need to train to get used to the new configuration, as inadvertent use of the front brake can throw you off your bike. Or ask your STEVENS dealer to change the brake levers. Your new bicycle is equipped with modern brakes which may be far more effective than those you were used to so far. Be sure to first practise using the brakes off public roads! d. If your bicycle is assembled with carbon components, also keep in mind the characteristics of the material, in particular with regard to the adjustment and the braking with carbon wheels. For more information see chapter “Special Characteristics of Carbon”. For more information see chapter “The Brake System”.
e. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears? If not, make yourself familiar with the new gears in a place clear of traffic.
For more information see chapter “The Gears“.
f. Are both saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? The saddle should be set to a height from which you can just reach the pedal in its lowest position with your heel. Check whether your toes reach to the floor when you are sitting on the saddle. Your STEVENS dealer will be pleased to help you, if you are not happy with your seating position.
For more information see chapter “Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider”.
g. If your bicycle is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals: Have you ever tried the shoes they go with? Do not set off until you have practised engaging and disengaging the shoes from the pedals in stationary. For more information see chapter “The Pedal Systems“. Also read the operating instructions of the pedals that you have received from your STEVENS dealer.
Danger: A lack of practice when using step-in pedals or too much spring tension in the mechanism can lead to a very firm connection, from which you cannot quickly step out!
Danger:
Trailers are not permitted for all mentioned bicycles.
Danger:
Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases, while riding with your hands on the top handlebars. The brake levers are not within easy reach.
Note:
If you cyclocross bicycle has the additional Oxygen brake levers braking from the top handlebars is possible.
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Before Every Ride
Danger:
Improperly closed quick-releases can cause components of your bicycle to come loose and result in serious accidents!
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Danger:
During use your bicycle is undergoing stress resulting from the surface of the road and through the rider’s action.
Due to these dynamic loads, the different parts of your bicycle react with wear and fatigue. Please check your bicycle regularly for wear marks as well as for scratches, dents, bent parts and incipient cracking. Components which have reached the end of their service life may break without previous warning. Let your
STEVENS dealer maintain and service your bicycle regularly and in cases of doubt it is always best to replace components.
1.2. Before Every Ride
Check the following points before you set off: a. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear wheel properly closed? For more information on how to use quick-releases see chapter
“Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases”.
b. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure?
Check the pressure with a manometer or a stand pump with indicator.
For more information see chapter “The Wheels“.
c. Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Watch the gap between brake pad and rim, which should remain the same over the entire rim circumference. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with ruptured sides or broken axles or spokes. For more information see chapter “The Wheels“.
d. Test the brakes while standing by firmly pulling brake levers towards the handlebars. The brake pads must hit the rim with their entire surface. They must not touch the tyres. You should not be able to pull the lever all the way to the handlebars! For more information see chapter
“The Brake System“.
With disc brakes you should directly get a positive braking response. If you have to actuate the brake lever more than once to get a positive braking response, have the STEVENS bicycle checked by your STEVENS dealer.
e. If you want to ride on public roads, make sure your bicycle is equipped according to the regulations of your country. Riding without lights and reflectors in dark or dim conditions is very dangerous because you will be seen too late or not at all by other road users. Turn on the lights as soon as dusk sets in. For more information see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads”.
f. Let your bicycle bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is any rattling, see where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolts, if necessary.
g. Various parts of your new bicycle, such as the chain drive, always need to be well lubricated. Make sure not to dirt your clothes and protect your trousers with a trouser clip whenever you set off on your bicycle.
Note: Do not forget to take a high quality D- or chain lock with you on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your bicycle against theft is to lock it to an immovable object.
Danger: Do not use your bicycle, if it fails on one these points! If you are in doubt, ask your STEVENS dealer for help. Riding a defective bicycle can result in serious accidents!
Legal Requirements
2. Legal Requirements for Riding on
Public Roads
If you want to use your STEVENS bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of the respective country.
Pay particular attention to your STEVENS bicycle being equipped with the required set of lights and reflectors.
Ask your bicycle dealer to inform you about the regulations in force in the country where you use your STEVENS bicycle. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regulations for riding on public roads and off-road.
Note:
If you want to use your bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of the respective country. Ask your STEVENS dealer for the laws and regulations applicable in your country or in the country you intend to use the STEVENS bicycle.
Danger:
For your own safety, be sure to switch on the light as soon as dusk sets in.
Danger:
Keep the lighting set clean and check its functioning at regular intervals.
Note:
When riding on public roads cyclists must in general observe the same regulations as car drivers. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regulations of your country.
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Legal Requirements
10
3. Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Your body height and proportions are decisive for the frame size of your bicycle. Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle quickly.
3.1. Sloping Geometry – How to Determine or
Measure the Frame Size
STEVENS road racing frames of the latest model series have a “sloping geometry”. This means that the top tube inclines towards the seat tube and is not in parallel to the ground.
This gives the frame a more compact appearance and more stiffness in the area of the bottom bracket. For this reason sloping frames can also be used under certain circumstances by riders who have problems getting on and off their bicycle with a level top tube due to a bigger standover height
(standover clearance when standing over the bicycle). Even though the optical proportions of the bicycle may appear mismatching due to the deeply inserted seat post, the selection of a sloping frame is a reasonable alternative.
The sloping design requires a modified formula to determine the frame size.
In the case of STEVENS road racing frames the frame size is normally measured from the bottom bracket centre to the upper edge of the top tube.
The size of today’s “sloping top tube“ frames is measured in a different way than a few years ago when the seat tube length was the decisive measure. The seat tubes are now shorter in general; the “nominal measure” of seat tube and top tube are therefore considered to determine the optimal frame size. These are quasi theoretical dimensions with an imaginary straight top tube.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
In the case of the sloping top tube frames, the frame size (nominal seat tube length) is measured from the bottom bracket centre to the upper edge of the nominal top tube. This may be the same as the length to the top tube of the seat tube, but it need not be.
STEVENS road racing frames sized 56 cm would have a 56-cm-long seat tube (measured from the bottom bracket to the upper edge of the top tube), if the top tube were in parallel to the ground. The seat tube is now a little shorter; this does however not affect the seating position and the length of the frame. These measures can hardly be measured; in our geometry tables on the internet you find the values for the nominal top tube as well as for the real seat tube measures.
As a general rule, if you had a 56 cm frame (bottom bracket centre -– upper edge of top tube) of the traditional design with horizontal top tube before, you should opt for a sloping frame at STEVENS size 56 cm now, as well. Because the frame proportions, such as the nominal top tube length, remained the same. The only difference is the junction between top tube and seat tube which was lowered a little. If you have determined your frame size at 56 cm (bottom bracket centre – upper edge of top tube), you should choose a road racing frame sized 56 cm and not a larger one.
Note:
Do not take the length “bottom bracket centre to upper edge seat tube” as frame size!
Note:
To check the frame size take the separate geometry tables as reference! You find them on the internet at www.
stevensbikes.de with the individual bicycles.
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Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Note:
3.1.1. Rule of Thumb to Determine the Suitable STEVENS
Road Racing Frame Size:
Due to the shorter seat tube on sloping frames the seat post must be pulled out further than in the case of standard frames. For this reason it is advisable to use a longer seat post to make sure 80 mm of the seat post at least remain in the seat tube.
Frame size stv = Inseam (length of inside leg, barefoot) x 0.66 + 2 cm
3.1.2. Rule of Thumb to Determine the Suitable Saddle
Height:
Saddle height = Inseam (length of inside leg, barefoot) x 0.885
By choosing a specific type of road or cyclocross bike you already roughly determine the posture you will be riding in. However, some components of your bicycle are designed in a way that you can adjust them to your proportions up to a certain degree. These include the seat post, the stem and the brake levers.
3.2. Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height
The saddle should be set to a height which gives maximum pedalling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the ball of your big toe should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindle. With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely straight at the lowest point. If the saddle is too high, you will have trouble passing through the lowest point and your pedalling will become awkward. You can check the height of your saddle in the following, simple way. To do so be sure to wear flat-soled shoes, or even better cycling shoes.
• Sit on the saddle and put one of your heels on the pedal at its lowest point. In this position your leg should be fully stretched. Make sure your hips remain horizontal.
• To adjust the saddle height loosen the binder bolt or quick-release lever (inform yourself beforehand on how to use quick-releases in chapter “Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases”). Use a suitable tool to release the seat post binder bolt by turning it anticlockwise.
Danger:
Never grease a carbon seat post or the seat tube of a carbon frame. This would reduce the friction and render any clamping with acceptable clamping forces impossible.
Use special carbon assembly paste to increase the clamping force.
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Danger: If you have a very small frame, there may be the danger of your foot colliding with the front wheel.
Therefore, make sure your cleats are properly adjusted.
• Now you can adjust the saddle height to the desired position. Do not pull the seat post out as far as to let the mark on the shaft come into view. In the case of frames with long seat tubes which continue beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the height of the top tube or the rear stay! This can mean a minimum insertion length of 100 millimetres or more.
• Make sure the part of the seat post inside the seat tube is always well greased. Exception: frames and seat posts made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic (carbon); in this case the seat post must be mounted without grease. Use special carbon assembly paste, if necessary. If the seat post does not move easily inside the seat tube, ask your STEVENS dealer for advice. Do not use brute force.
• Align the saddle with the frame by using the saddle nose and the bottom bracket or top tube as a reference point.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• Clamp the seat post again by turning the seat post binder bolt clockwise. You do not need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post sufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post does not match the frame.
• Check the tight clamping of the seat post by taking hold of the saddle at both ends and then trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat tube. If it does not move, the seat post is firmly seated.
• Does the leg stretch test now produce the right result? Check by moving your foot and pedal to the lowest point. When the ball of your foot is exactly above the pedal centre in the ideal pedalling position, your knee should be slightly bent. If it is, you have adjusted the saddle height correctly.
Danger:
All the tasks described require experience, appropriate tools and manual skills. Make it a rule to tighten the bolted connections carefully by using a torque wrench. Increase the torque values bit by bit, checking the fit of the component in between. Do not exceed the maximum torque values! You will find the values in chapter
“Recommended Torque
Settings” and in the operating instructions of the component manufacturers on the enclosed STEVENS CD-ROM.
Danger: Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond the limit, maximum, or stop mark! In the case of frames with long seat tubes which continue beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the height of the top tube or the rear stay! In case of non-observance the seat post might break or cause severe damage to the frame.
Note:
With children who are still growing it is advisable to check the seating position every two to three months.
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Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• Check whether you can balance safely on your bike while sitting on the saddle by stretching your feet to the floor. If you cannot, you should lower the saddle a little, at least to begin with.
After any assembly work, be sure to make a short functional check as described in chapter “Before Every Ride” and do a test ride in an area free of traffic. This will allow you to safely check whether everything is in good order.
If you are unsure about how to do something, it will be better just to check your seating position. Ask a specialist if you want something changed.
They will see to your wishes the next time you leave your bicycle at the workshop, e.g. for the first inspection.
Note:
Spacers can only be removed by shortening the steerer tube at the same time. This shortening is irreversible. Have this shortening only done by your
STEVENS dealer when you are absolutely sure about the position.
3.3. Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars
The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upper body. The deeper the handlebars, the more inclined the upper body. This means a more streamlined position for the rider and more weight to bear on the front wheel, but the extremely inclined position proves less comfortable, as the strain on wrists, arms, upper body and neck will increase.
3.3.1. Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset®-
System*
*Aheadset® is a registered trademark of the Dia-Compe company.
STEVENS road racing and cyclocross bicycles are fitted with threadless headset systems (Aheadset®). In the case of this system the stem also serves to adjust the bearing preload. If you change the position of the stem, you have to readjust the bearing (see chapter “The Headset”). The vertical setting range is limited by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers. With flip-flop stem models it is also possible to mount the stem the other way round to alter the handlebar height.
Danger:
In case you turn the stem around, the cables may be too short. In this case riding on your bicycle is dangerous.
Ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
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• Release the bolt at the top of the fork steerer tube which serves to adjust the initial bearing pressure and remove the Ahead cap.
• Release the stem clamping bolts on either side of the stem and pull the stem off the fork. Caution, the fork is no longer firm in the frame!
• Now you can remove the spacers.
• Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube and slip the spacers you have removed above the stem.
• In case you want to turn the stem around: To do so release the bolts of the stem front plate clamping the handlebars and remove them carefully. Refasten the handlebars after you have turned the stem.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Check whether the handlebars are firmly seated in the stem by trying to rotate the handlebars downwards. Also check whether the handlebars/ stem unit can be turned relative to the fork. Do this by taking the front wheel between your knees and trying to twist the handlebars. If the parts can still be moved, the bolts must be carefully tightened once again and the tight fit must be checked once again. Do not exceed the maximum torque values.
STEVENS recommend that you always use handlebars and stem of the same quality from the same manufacturer.
Danger:
Note that the bolted connections of the stem and the handlebars have to be tightened to specified torques. Otherwise the handlebars or stem may come loose or break. You will find the respective values in chapter “Recommended
Torque Settings”, in the operating instructions on the
STEVENS CD-ROM or directly on the components.
• Centre the handlebars accurately in the stem clamp, i.e. the drops should be in parallel to the ground or point with the ends slightly downwards. Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench by observing the correct torque values.
• Readjust the headset and retighten the stem to the recommended torque value after you have aligned it (see also chapter “The Headset”).
Caution: Please note that in the case of full carbon forks sufficient clamping forces are mostly already reached below the maximum torque values indicated by the stem manufacturer! Please note that in the case of CRP-forks (CRP = carbon fibre reinforced plastic = carbon) one spacer always remains above the stem to ensure the biggest clamping surface possible of the stem. Too high torque values can destroy the steerer tube.
Danger:
Stems come in very different lengths and shaft and binder tube diameters. A stem of inappropriate dimensions can become a serious source of danger: Handlebars and stem may break, causing an accident in the process. Make sure the stem clamp (the handlebar clamping) and the steerer tube clamping are free of sharp edges. Your STEVENS dealer will be pleased to help you.
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Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
3.4. Correcting the Fore-to-Aft Position and Tilt of the Saddle
Danger:
Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be tightened to the specified torque values. You will find the values in chapter “Recommended Torque Settings” and in the operating instructions on the STEVENS CD-ROM or on the components.
The inclination of your upper body, and hence your riding comfort and pedalling power, are partially influenced by the distance between the grips of the handlebars and the saddle as well as by the tilt of the saddle. This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post clamp. However, this also influences your pedalling. Depending on whether the saddle is positioned more to the front or more rearwards, your legs will reach the pedals to a greater or lesser extent from behind.
You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed manner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
Note:
The setting range of the saddle is very small; replacing the stem allows you to make far bigger adjustments to the rider’s fore-to-aft position, as stems come in different lengths. Replacing the stem allows you to make far larger changes to the fore-to-aft position, because stems come in lengths differing by more than ten centimetres. In most of the cases the length of the cables must be adjusted.
For these changes ask your
STEVENS dealer for help!
An inappropriate saddle position or unsuitable saddle models may numb your crotch and cause blood flow disorders in your genital area. Ask your
STEVENS dealer for advice.
3.4.1. Adjusting Saddle Position and Tilt
With patent seat posts a single bolt or two parallel bolts fix the clamping mechanism, which controls both the tilt and the horizontal position of the saddle. Some seat posts have two bolts which allow a still more precise adjustment of the angle position.
• Release the bolt(s) at the top of the seat post. Release the bolt(s) two to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart.
• Move the saddle forward or backward by sliding its rails in the loosened seat post clamp. You may have to give it a light blow to move it.
• Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal as you retighten the bolt. The bike should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.
• Tighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench.
• After fastening the saddle check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands on the tip and once at the rear end.
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3.5. Adjusting the Pressure Point of the Brake
In particular, riders with small hands should ask their bicycle dealer to adjust the brake lever position, i.e. the position where the brake starts to be effective, to the length of the rider’s fingers directly after purchase. The adjustment is performed either by optimizing the brake lever position on the handlebars or by means of the cable clamping at the brake bodies.
Adjusting bolts located in this area only serve to compensate brake pad wear.
3.6. Adjusting the Tilt of the Handlebars and
Brake Levers
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
In the case of road racing bikes the straight piece of the drops should be in parallel to the ground or point with the ends slightly downwards.
The ends of the brake levers should meet an imaginary extension of the bottom line of the drops. Shifting the brake levers is a job best left to a specialist, as it involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.
• Release the Allen bolt(s) at the bottom or front side of the stem.
Be sure to check whether there is still enough free travel for the brake levers to move a little before the brake pads hit the rims. Check the point, when the brake pads touch the rims. If this point is reached after the lever has only travelled a short distance, the brake may drag along the rim, e.g. when riding out of the saddle (see chapter “The Brake System”).
If you have disc brakes, regularly check the braking response and the condition of the brake cables while pulling on the lever. Do you get a clearcut braking response in the case of an emergency braking, and does the lever remain clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull?
• Turn the handlebars to the desired position.
• Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
• In the case of stems with two or four bolts make sure the upper and bottom slots are identical in width.
Note:
Shimano offers special shifters for some gear systems. Ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
Danger:
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars. Your maximum braking force must be reached short of this point!
17
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Danger:
Note that the bolted connections of stem, handlebars and brakes have to be tightened to their specified torques. You will find the respective values in chapter “Recommended
Torque Settings“. If you disregard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.
3.6.1. Triathlon Handlebars
• In the case of stems with four-bolt clamping, be sure to retighten the bolts evenly and alternately to the prescribed torque value. The clamping slots in the top and bottom area as well as on the right and on the left must be evenly and of identical width.
• Carefully retighten the clamping bolt(s). Try to turn the handlebars relative to the stem. Retighten the bolted connections, if necessary.
Observe the maximum torque value (see also chapter “Recommended
Torque Settings”).
In triathlon sport where a particularly aerodynamic seating position is important, aero bars are used usually. With these aero models the shift levers are often positioned at the ends of the handlebars. When you ride with your back in a horizontal position, the brake levers are out of reach and the reaction time is longer, which makes your stopping distance longer. For this reason it is very important to anticipate problems when riding.
Within certain limits the position of the handlebars can be adjusted according to your personal preferences. That means that the straight part of the handlebars should point only slightly downwards or upwards by maximal 30 degrees.
Make sure your forearms are always comfortably rested, i.e. your elbows should project a little towards the rear.
Note:
Ask your STEVENS dealer to help you optimizing your seating position.
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The Pedal Systems
4. The Pedal Systems
Not all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used for cycling should have a stiff sole and provide a firm support for your feet. For the usage of step-in pedals special cycle shoes are not only recommendable, but also a must.
You find a wide range of models in specialist shops. Ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
Due to the numerous advantages, today’s road racing bikes are almost exclusively fitted with systems that provide a lock and release mechanism for your shoe, known as step-in pedals. The firm connection between shoe and pedal prevents your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or when riding over rough ground. Besides this, it enables you not only to push but also to pull the pedals, which makes your pedalling more fluent. A further advantage is that the ball of your big toe comes to rest biomechanically just at the right place on the pedal spindle and that you do not block unintentionally the front wheel with the tips of your feet during steering.
An older system almost no longer on the market is the strap pedal system.
With this kind of pedal the shoe tip is held by a bracket. A strap running over the bridge of the foot fixes the shoe.
4.1. Functioning of Step-In Pedals
Step-in pedals come with a special type of cycling shoe which locks onto the pedal similarly to a ski binding.
To engage with the pedal is to turn it to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat (the plate on the sole of the shoe) and then rest your foot on it. The shoe engages with the pedal with a click which you will hear and feel clearly. With all commercially available systems the shoe is disengaged from the pedal by twisting the heel outward. Lean against a wall or ask someone to hold you when you try to engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal. Functional differences between the pedal systems concern the shape of the cleat, the release angle and the rigidity of the connection. Cyclists predisposed to knee trouble should choose a pedal system that has some “float”, so that the heel can move sideways a little while the shoe is engaged with the pedal. Some step-in pedals have cleats embedded into the sole which is a great advantage, as it ensures stable walking.
Danger:
Taking up the pedals, engaging the shoes and disengaging them by turning the heel outward should first be practised while stationary. Later you can refine your technique in a place clear of traffic.
Note:
Read the operating instructions of the pedal and shoe manufacturers carefully. In case of inquiries, ask your
STEVENS dealer for advice.
19
The Pedal Systems
4.2. Adjustment and Maintenance
Current pedal systems can show considerable differences in design. Nevertheless, there are some general rules for adjustment which apply to all of them:
Danger:
Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage smoothly. A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make the shoe disengage from the pedal.
Risk of falling!
20
• The cleat has to be fastened to the shoe in such a position that the ball of the foot comes to rest on the pedal axle.
• Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling. For most people this means that the heels will point inward a little. Make sure the fastening bolts are properly tightened, as you will find it almost impossible to disengage your shoe from a loose plate!
• Adjust the required releasing force according to your needs. It is advisable to adopt a low releasing force setting to begin with. Turn the small Allen bolt and examine the change in releasing force when you engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.
• Exposed springs and other components that attract dirt have to be cleaned and regreased regularly.
• Squeaking or creaking cleats can often be silenced by applying a little grease to the point of contact between cleat and pedal. These noises may also be signs of wear.
• Check the cleats regularly for wear, especially in case of plastic cleats.
• If your shoe wobbles on the pedal, the cleat or the sole of your shoes might be worn.
Note: Before mounting the pedals, check the marking on the pedal axles first. “R” stands for right pedal and “L” for left pedal. Note that the left pedal has a left-handed thread that has to be tightened contrary to the direction you are accustomed to, i.e. anticlockwise.
The Brake System
5. The Brake System
In general the brakes of your bicycle are necessary to adjust your speed to the traffic situation. However, in an emergency the brakes must be able to bring your bicycle to a halt as quickly as possible. Such emergency braking is also a study in physics. In the process of braking, the rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel. With good road conditions, the rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of overturning and only in the second place by the road grip of the tyres.
Such a problem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill. In the event of an emergency braking you have to try to put your weight back as far as possible.
Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that due to the weight transfer the front brakes can achieve a higher braking force.
With rim brakes long lasting braking or permanent dragging of the brake pads can overheat the rim. This can affect the inner tube negatively or cause the tyre to slip on the inner rim. Sudden loss of pressure while cycling can result in a serious accident.
With disc brakes prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can overheat the brake system. This can result in a loss of braking force, even to the point of total brake failure, provoking serious accidents.
Therefore, check your riding manners and make it a habit to brake hard and then to open the brake again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows it. It is better to stop for a moment and let the rim cool down rather than to risk anything.
5.1. Functioning and Wear of Rim Brakes
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating braking surface, and the resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are rubbed against each other.
When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why rim brakes respond at a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. In order to maintain their effectiveness brakes need to be checked and readjusted from time to time.
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and soiling hasten wear on both engaging surfaces. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can cause a fall!
See your STEVENS dealer and ask them to examine the remaining thickness of the rims when you have worn through your second set of brake pads at the latest. Your bicycle dealer has special measuring devices for determining the remaining thickness of the rims.
Danger: Be careful while getting used to the brakes.
Practise emergency stops in a place clear of traffic until you are comfortable controlling your bicycle. This can save you from having accidents.
Danger:
The assignment of brake lever to brake pad, e.g. left lever acts on front brake, can vary.
Make yourself familiar with the lever-to-brake assignment or ask your STEVENS dealer to change the brakes as you want them.
Danger:
Actuate the brakes carefully when riding on wet or slippery roads, as the tyres can easily slip away. Therefore, reduce your speed in general when riding in such conditions.
21
The Brake System
Danger:
Wet weather, snow and ice reduce your braking effect.
Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in the rain!
Danger:
Damaged brake cables that are for example frayed should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing a crash.
Some rims are provided with wear indicators. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the brake indicator becomes visible in form of small slots or a permanent strip or disappears (according to the model). In this case you should also go and see your STEVENS dealer at once and have your rim replaced.
If you have mounted carbon wheels, be sure to observe the information given in chapter “What to Bear in Mind When Braking With Carbon
Wheels“.
5.2. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing
Racing and/or Side-Pull Brakes
With side-pull brakes the brake arms are suspended from a common point, thus forming an integral system. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.
5.2.1. Functional Check
• Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still sufficiently thick.
• Make sure both brake arms hit the rim simultaneously when pulling the brake lever.
• Do you get a clear-cut braking response in the case of an emergency braking, and does the lever remain clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull? A successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly adjusted brake.
Note:
Clean the brake pads at regular intervals.
5.2.2. Vertical Adjustment of the Brake Pads
• Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two complete turns.
Danger: When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use marked brake pads matching your rim. Your
STEVENS dealer will be pleased to help you. Ensure that braking surfaces are absolutely free of wax, grease and oil. Ask an expert to check the rims at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads or when the wear indicators are visible. Worn down rims may make the inner tube burst and result in a fall! Ask your STEVENS dealer for help.
22
Danger:
Please observe the unusual brake behaviour of carbon rims. A lack of practice and unsuitable brake pads can result in falls and damage to the rim. Ask your STEVENS dealer for help.
The Brake System
• Push the brake pad to the correct height, i.e. the brake pad must fully hit the braking surface. Make sure the brake pad is in parallel to the rim and pull the brake lever to fix the brake pads. Retighten the fastening bolt of the brake pad to the recommended torque value.
• In case you have Scorpo wheels, observe the mounting instructions on the rim!
5.2.3. Synchronizing and Readjusting Side-Pull Brakes
• Furthermore, check whether the bolt connecting the brake to the frame is still tightened properly.
• With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) screw, located at the side or on top of the calliper and holding against the base plate of the brakes, until the left and right brake pad are at the same distance from the rim.
5.3. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing
Cantilever Brakes
Cantilever brakes are used on cyclocross bicycles. They are compatible with the common shift/brake levers from Shimano, Sram and Campagnolo.
Actuating the brake lever creates a pull on the brake cable which draws the arms towards each other. On this occasion the brake arms turn slightly inwards around the suspension point, a friction of the brake pads being generated on the rim sides.
5.3.1. Functional Check
• As with all rim brakes, the brake pads should be accurately aligned with the rims and be sufficiently thick.
• Furthermore, the brake pads should touch the rim with their front part first. At the moment of the first contact the rear part of the brake pad should be a millimetre away from the rim. Seen from the top the brake pads form a “V” with the trough pointing to the front. This V-shaped setting prevents screeching when the brakes are applied.
• When you pull the brake lever, both brake arms must contact the rim simultaneously.
• The brake levers must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars, even in the event of an emergency braking.
• Turn the knurled nut or bolt according to the manufacturer through which the brake cable passes at the brake calliper until the travel of the brake lever suits your needs.
Danger:
Always test the brakes’ function while stationary after adjusting them. Make sure the brake pads hit the rim and the brake lever cannot be pulled all the way to the handlebars.
Brake failure or defective tyres may otherwise result in an accident.
23
The Brake System
Danger:
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
5.3.2. Synchronizing and Readjusting Cantilever Brakes
• For synchronizing the brake, almost all cantilever brakes have an bolt located on the side of one brake calliper to adjust the spring preload.
Screw this bolt until the clearance between brake pad and rim is the same on either side.
• To readjust the brake, release the knurled lock ring located at the cable hanger or brake lever.
• Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. This shortens the free travel of the brake lever.
• Keeping the adjusting bolt fixed, tighten the lock ring against the brake lever mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming loose by itself.
• Ensure that the slot of the bolt faces neither forward nor upward, as this would permit water or dirt to enter.
5.4. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing
Mini V-Brakes
The mini V-brakes are the shortened version of the V-brakes usual on mountain bikes; they have two brake arms mounted separately on either side of the rim. The brake arms of mini V-brakes are shortened and compatible with the common shift/brake levers from Shimano, Sram and
Campagnolo.
Actuating the brake lever creates a pull on the brake cable which draws the arms towards each other. On this occasion the brake arms turn slightly inwards around the suspension point, a friction of the brake pads being generated on the rim sides.
Danger:
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting them, making sure the brake pads engage fully with the rim when you pull them hard.
24
5.4.1. Functional Check 5.4.2. Vertical Adjustment of the Brake Pads
• Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still sufficiently thick. You can tell this by the grooves in the brake pads.
If the pads are worn down, it is time to replace them.
• Furthermore, the brake pads should touch the rim with their front part first. At the moment of the first contact the rear part of the brake pad should be a millimetre away from the rim. Seen from the top the brake pads form a “V” with the trough pointing to the front. This V-shaped setting prevents screeching when the brakes are applied.
• When you pull the brake lever, both brake arms must contact the rim simultaneously.
• The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not be able to pull it all the way to the handlebars, even in the event of an emergency braking.
• Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly adjusted brake.
• Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two complete turns.
• Push the brake pad to the correct height and align it in a way that the front part hits the rim before the rear part. Hold the brake pad in this position. Retighten the fastening bolt of the brake pad to the recommended torque value.
The Brake System
Danger:
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to your STEVENS dealer.
25
The Brake System
5.4.3. Synchronizing and Readjusting the Mini V-Brakes
• For synchronizing the brake almost all cantilever and mini V-brakes have a bolt on the side of one brake calliper to adjust the spring preload. Screw this bolt until the clearance between brake pad and rim is the same on either side.
• To readjust the brakes, release the knurled lock ring located at the point where the brake cable enters the additional brake lever on the handlebars.
• Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. This shortens the free travel of the brake lever.
• Keeping the adjusting bolt fixed, tighten the lock ring against the brake lever mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming loose by itself.
• Ensure that the slot of the bolt faces neither forward nor upward, as this would permit water or dirt to enter.
5.5. What to Bear in Mind with Brake Levers on
Cyclocross Bicycles
Some bicycles of the cyclocross model series are fitted with special Oxygen additional brake levers on the handlebars which allow braking from a safe grip position on the top handlebars when riding over difficult terrain.
These brake levers can be used on equal terms with the other road bike brake levers. The simultaneous usage of both brake levers for one brake is not possible.
They are also available for road bicycles with standard handlebars (no oversize diameter 31.8 mm).
Danger:
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting them, making sure the brake pads engage fully with the rim when you pull them hard.
26
The Brake System
5.6. Mechanical and Hydraulic Disc Brakes
5.6.1. Functioning and Wear
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a stationary brake pad or two moving brake pads to be pressed against a rotating braking surface, and the resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are rubbed against each other.
In the wet, disc brakes respond much faster and more forcefully than rim brakes. They also require fairly little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. One drawback of disc brakes is that they tend to be noisy when they are wet.
When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why disc brakes respond at a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rotors! Frequent rides in the rain hasten wear on both engaging surfaces.
Danger: Leakages in the lines of hydraulic brakes may render them ineffective. Remove such leakages immediately, otherwise risk of accident!
Danger: Disc brakes are susceptible to overheating during braking. Therefore, do not touch the disc or brake calliper after extensive usage of your brake, e.g. after riding downhill.
Caution: Ensure that rotors and brake pads are absolutely free of wax, grease and oil. Brake pads, once contaminated with oil cannot be cleaned, but have to be replaced!
Danger:
Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Risk of accident!
Note:
Wet conditions and/or a heavily clogged brake can lead to squeaking noises during braking.
Note:
When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use marked original spare parts matching your brake.
27
The Brake System
5.6.2. Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach 5.6.3. Checking and Readjusting in the Case of
Mechanical Disc Brakes
With disc brakes the brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, too, allowing you to operate them with optimal effectiveness. In most cases this is done by means of a small Allen bolt located directly at the hand lever.
Regularly check the braking response and the condition of the brake cables while pulling on the lever.
Do you get a clear-cut braking response in the case of an emergency braking, and does the lever remain clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull?
To a certain extent, an increasing lever travel due to the wear on the brake pads can be compensated, if necessary, directly at the brake calliper, or with the adjusting bolt at the brake lever. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable runs and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired travel. Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slit of the bolt head does not face upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high amount of water or dirt to enter.
Danger:
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever or brake calliper only can drastically reduce the maximum braking effect. After adjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.
Note:
Some systems must be readjusted directly at the brake calliper to compensate wear.
Be sure to read the operating instructions of the brake manufacturer on the STEVENS
CD-ROM.
28
The Brake System
Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads are still sufficiently thick. The wear of the pads can be checked at the inspection window on the upper side of the brake calliper. If the gap between the sheet metal brake pad backing plate and the rotor has decreased to approx. 1 mm, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s operating instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.
After readjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake calliper change its position. This can make the brake less effective and result in a complete brake failure in an extreme case. Risk of accident!
Some models offer further ways of adjusting the brakes directly at the brake calliper, though this requires a certain amount of skill.
5.6.4. Checking and Readjusting in the Case of Hydraulic
Disc Brakes
Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks while pulling on the lever. If hydraulic oil or brake fluid leaks out, you should take appropriate measures immediately, as a leak can render your brakes ineffective. Risk of accident!
Most of the brake models are equipped with a mechanism which automatically compensates for the wear. Before every ride, check whether you get a clear-cut braking response before the lever touches the handlebars.
Note:
In any case, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM before adjusting the brakes.
Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads are still sufficiently thick. The wear of the pads can be checked at the inspection window on the upper side of the brake calliper. If the gap between the sheet metal brake pad backing plate and the rotor has decreased to approx. 1 mm, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s operating instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.
Caution:
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by the manufacturer.
29
The Brake System
The brake models of some manufacturers include transport locks with cut-outs. The brake pads of these brakes must be replaced as soon as they fit into these cut-outs.
Only use original replacement pads and follow the operating instructions of the brake manufacturers. If you have the slightest doubt, leave this job to a skilled mechanic.
Danger:
Loose connections and leaky brake lines drastically impair braking effect. If you find leaks in the brake system or buckled lines, contact your
STEVENS dealer.
Danger:
Do not transport your
STEVENS bicycle with saddle and handlebars upside down
– risk of brake failure.
30 leaks out.
Caution: Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid can be very unhealthy and damaging to the paint if it
Note: New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their optimal braking performance. Accelerate your STEVENS bicycle in a place free of traffic 30 to 50 times to around
30 kph (18 mph) and bring it to a halt each time.
Danger: Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Risk of accident!
Note: With the wheels dismounted, do not actuate the brake levers. This would cause the brake pads to be pushed together, making it difficult to remount the wheel. Mount the enclosed transport locks after dismounting the wheels.
The Gears
6. The Gears
The gears on your bicycle serve to adjust your pedalling power to the terrain you are riding on and the desired speed. The gears do not reduce the physical work to be performed which remains the same with the identical distance to be performed at identical speed, but the pedalling force per crank rotation. That means: A low gear (where in the case of derailleur gears the chain runs on the small chainring and a large sprocket) allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You must, however, pedal relatively fast.
High gears (large chainring, small sprocket) are for riding downhill. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres forward at correspondingly high speed.
To ride economically you frequently have to shift gears. As with a motor vehicle, your “engine” wants to be kept within a certain speed range, if it is to give its best performance. On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a minute.
Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between 90 and 110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbing uphill, your cadence will naturally fall off somewhat. Your pedalling should, however, always remain fluid.
Finely graduated adjustments as well as an easy operability of modern bike gears are the best preconditions for an efficient riding. In addition, it reduces chain and sprocket wear as well as the strain on your knee joints.
6.1. General Information on Derailleur Gears
Derailleur gears are currently the most effective type of power transmission on bicycles. About 97 to 98 percent of the pedalling force performed is transmitted to the rear wheel with well-maintained and greased derailleur gears.
With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and clear-cut lever positions, shifting gears has become very easy.
Danger:
Be sure to always wear straight cut trousers or use trouser clips or the like to make sure your trousers do not get caught in the chain or the chainrings thus provoking a fall.
31
The Gears
6.2. Functioning and Operation
Gear shifting starts by pressing a shifter or a brake lever/shifter unit.
6.2.1. Brake Lever/Shifter Systems
On road racing bicycles the shifters are integrated in the brake lever control. By pressing inward the entire Shimano brake lever you shift to the larger sprockets. By pressing only the small lever inward the chain moves to the small sprockets.
In the case of Campagnolo the lever positioned behind the brake lever is designed to shift to the larger sprockets, by pressing this lever with the index or middle finger inward. By pressing with the thumb on the button on the inner side of the control the chain is shifted to the smaller sprockets.
Danger:
Practise shifting gears in a place free of traffic until you are familiar with the functioning of the different levers. If you do so in road traffic, your attention might be drawn off from possible risks.
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Shimano Di2
With a Di2 you must only press control buttons, instead of pressing the entire brake lever or the lever positioned behind inward as is the case with usual dual control shifters from Shimano. Shift to the larger sprockets by pressing the long control button on the side of the brake lever.
Press the triangular control button behind the brake lever to make the chain move to the smaller sprockets.
Campagnolo Sram
In the case of Sram brake lever/shifter controls there is only one shifter on the left and right positioned behind the brake lever. A short movement of the right lever moves the chain to the next smaller sprocket. Pressing the lever further makes the rear derailleur shift one to three sprockets higher. The front derailleur works likewise by actuating the left shifter.
The Gears
6.2.2. Bar End Shifters
With Shimano and Campagnolo bar end shifters for triathlon and time trial use the shifter is pressed downward to move the chain to the smaller sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the smaller chainrings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling upward the shifter you shift to the larger sprockets in the rear and to the larger chainrings in the front.
Road and cyclocross bicycles are usually fitted with two or three chainrings and up to eleven sprockets at the rear wheel hub. According to the combination this provides nominally a gear with 18, 20, 22, 27 or 30 speeds. Some gears with particular chain run should be avoided. Gears with an extremely oblique run of the chain may cause noises and result in an increased inner friction, which reduces the power transmission efficiency and hastens wear of the chain.
An unfavourable run of the chain is when the smallest chainring (front derailleur) is used with one of the two or three outermost (smallest) sprockets (rear derailleur) or when the largest chainring is used with one of the inmost (largest) sprockets.
Note:
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain.
The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the rear derailleur via
Bowden cable. Then the rear derailleur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the next sprocket. It is therefore important when changing gears to continue pedalling smoothly without force as long as the chain is moving between sprockets or chainrings! On today’s bicycles there are, however, special guides in the chainrings which allow for changing gears under force. Shifting gears under load shortens, however, the service life of your chain considerably.
Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chainstay and chainrings. Therefore, avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in particular when changing gears with the front derailleur.
Danger:
Shifting gears under load, i.e. while pedalling hard, can make the chain slip. At the front derailleur the chain may even slip off the chainrings when shifting under load.
Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chainstay and chainrings. This can result in a fall. This will at least shorten the service life of the chain and damage the frame.
33
The Gears
Caution:
If your bicycle has tipped over or the rear derailleur received a blow, the rear derailleur or its mount might be bent. It is advisable to check its range of movement and readjust the limit screws, if necessary, after such an incident or after mounting new wheels on your bicycle.
6.3. Checking and Readjusting the Mechanical
Gears
The derailleur gears of your bicycle were carefully adjusted by your
STEVENS dealer before delivery. The Bowden cables may, however, give way or compress the cable housings on the first kilometres making gear changing imprecise. This will result in the chain not wanting to climb onto the next larger sprocket.
6.3.1. Rear Derailleur
In the case of imprecise shifting increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which the Bowden cable runs into the rear derailleur or at the cable stop in the area of the down tube. To do so, shift to the smallest sprocket and turn the clicking bolts anticlockwise in half turns until the cable is slightly tensioned.
After tensioning the Bowden cable check whether the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To find out you either have to turn the cranks by hand or ride the bicycle and change gears.
If the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it also readily shifts to the small sprockets when you change to a higher gear. You may need several tries to get the derailleur system properly adjusted.
6.3.2. Adjusting the Limit Stops
The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws which limit the swivel range of the rear derailleur, thus preventing the rear derailleur and chain from colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping off the smallest sprocket. The limit screws are adjusted by your STEVENS dealer. They do not alter their position during normal use. After a fall you should however always check the proper adjustment.
• Shift with the right shifting lever to the highest gear. The inner cable is then totally relaxed and the chain will run on the smallest sprocket.
Look from the rear of the bicycle at the cassette and check whether the teeth of the smallest sprocket and the teeth of the guide pulley are all in a perfectly vertical line.
• If necessary, correct the position by means of the limit screws. The limit screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low gear. In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e. with the chain running on the smallest sprocket.
• If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error. Turn one of the screws counting the number of turns and watch the rear derailleur. If it does not move, you are turning the wrong one.
Turn back the counted rotations to find its original position.
34
Caution:
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced mechanic.
Be sure to also read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM. If you have any problems with the gears, please contact your STEVENS dealer.
The Gears
• Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel and anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.
• Continue by shifting the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket. Be careful as you do so, as not to let the rear derailleur collide with the spokes.
When the chain runs on the biggest sprocket, see whether you can take the rear derailleur even further by moving the shift lever to the end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleur further towards the spokes by hand. Spin the wheel. If the derailleur cage moves towards the spokes or if the chain begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, the derailleur movement range needs to be limited. Turn the limit screw marked
“L” clockwise until the rear derailleur is clear of the spokes.
6.3.3. Front Derailleur
Adjusting the front derailleur is a delicate job. The range within which the front derailleur keeps the chain on the chainring without itself touching the chain is very small. It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than to risk having the chain fall off the chainring, which would block the drive. The swivelling range is reduced in the same way as with the rear derailleur, i.e. by turning the limit screws marked “H“ and
“L“. This is a job you should leave to your STEVENS dealer.
As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.
If necessary, shift to the small chainring and increase the tension of the
Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes in the area of the down tube.
Caution:
Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the front derailleur are still parallel to the chainrings!
Danger:
Adjusting the front derailleur is a very delicate job. Improper adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting suddenly the drive force. This can cause a fall!
Danger:
Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjusting the gears of your bicycle.
35
The Gears
Danger:
Before using your new Di2 be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic and read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM.
36
6.4. Shimano Di2
Shimano’s Di2 is the electronic version of the high-end drive groupset from Shimano. Instead of cables the signal is transmitted by wires. The rear and the front derailleurs are moved by small electrical motors. In case of an oblique run of the chain the Di2 front derailleur is readjusted automatically to avoid dragging noises and unnecessary wear.
The power supply is provided by a rechargeable battery that is mounted to the frame or in the seat post.
In case you want to change the function of the control buttons, ask your bicycle dealer for help. The change has to be done with a special test device from Shimano which is also used for troubleshooting.
6.4.1. Checking and Readjusting the Electric Gears
Clamp your bicycle into a workstand or ask a helper to hold your bicycle.
Turn the crank slowly and press the one of the two shifting switches repeatedly until the chain runs either on the outer or on the inner sprocket.
Adjust the limit stop to make sure the chain does not move beyond the sprocket. Repeat the aforementioned procedure in the other extreme position.
Shift the gear to the largest sprocket and to the smallest chainring. Turn the crank slowly backwards and check whether there is enough space between the pulley and the large sprocket. If this is not the case, turn the bolt positioned in the rear clockwise.
Leave the chain on the chosen gear and adjust the front derailleur with the bolt positioned towards the outside. The inner guide plate must be positioned close enough to the chain to make sure the chain doesn’t fall down and with sufficient place to make sure it doesn’t drag.
Shift to one of the medium gears. Press the button at the front switch under the handlebars until the control lamp illuminates red. The rear derailleur can be finely adjusted now. Turn the crank and listen to the noise of the chain while running. If the chain doesn’t roll off noiseless, press the front button. With every push the rear derailleur moves inward by one decimillimeter. If the noise gets louder, press the rear button.
The rear derailleur moves towards the outside in steps of one decimillimeter. Once the chain runs quietly press the button at the switch once again – the red lamp goes off. Finish by shifting through all the gears to check the proper functioning.
To adjust the limit stops follow the instructions described in chapter
“Checking and Readjusting the Mechanical Gears”.
The Gears
6.4.2. Rechargeable Battery 6.4.3 Charging the Rechargeable Battery
The range of a new, fully charged rechargeable battery is approx. 2,000 km (1,200 miles). With a loading capacity of approx. 25 % the range is reduced to approx. 250 km (150 miles).
With a weak rechargeable battery the front derailleur stops working first and then the rear derailleur stops. When the rechargeable battery is empty, the rear derailleur remains in the last chosen gear. Shifting into another gear is no longer possible!
You can check the battery’s state of charge at any time. To do so press one of the control buttons and keep it in this position for half a second at least.
The LED on the control unit indicates the state of charge:
- green light illuminates for about 2 seconds – rechargeable battery is charged 100 %
- green light flashes 5 times – rechargeable battery is charged about
50 %
- red light illuminates for about 2 seconds – rechargeable battery is charged about 25 %
- red light flashes 5 times – rechargeable battery is empty
The capacity of the rechargeable battery reduces over the time, thus reducing the possible range. This is unavoidable. When the realisable range no longer meets your requirements, you must replace the rechargeable battery.
The seat post battery must not be removed for charging. It is charged via a USB-port on a module at the handlebar.
The rechargeable battery mounted to the frame must be removed for charging. To do so unfold the lever and press the button at the battery base on the down tube. Remove the rechargeable battery by pulling it with the other hand from its mounting. Re-mount the rechargeable battery after charging by also pressing the button and sliding the battery into its mount. Re-fold the lever into its original position; this will pull the battery back into its seat.
Danger: Charge your battery only with the supplied charger.
Do not use chargers of another manufacturer, not even when the connector of the charger matches your rechargeable battery.
Danger:
Rechargeable batteries which remain unused for a longer period of time must be stored in a dry and cool place. Keep them out of the reach of children! Check the state of charge after six months at the latest. Protect the contact areas of your rechargeable battery with the protective covers before storing the battery.
Note:
For more information see www.shimano.com
37
Chain Maintenance
Danger:
An improperly joined, insufficiently locked or heavily worn chain can break and result in a fall. Have the chain replaced by your STEVENS dealer.
6.5. Chain Maintenance
It’s all that simple: Proper lubrication makes for enjoyable riding. What counts is, however, not the quantity, but the distribution and regular application of lubricant.
• Clean your chain from dirt and lubricant with an oily rag from time to time. There is no need to use special degreasers.
• Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links.
• To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers while you turn the crank. Once this is done, turn the cranks a few more times; then let the bicycle rest for a few minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.
• Finally rub off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around or attract dirt during riding.
6.5.1. Chain Wear
Although the chain is one of the wearing parts of your bicycle, there are still ways of influencing its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which run the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chainrings and get in the habit of high cadence pedalling. Chains running on derailleur gears are often worn out as early as after about 1,000 to 3,000 km (600 to 1,800 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively expensive compared with the costs of a new chain.
It is therefore advisable to check the condition of the chain at regular intervals. For this purpose shift the chain on the large chainring. Take the chain between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the teeth.
If you can lift it off clearly, it is seriously lengthened and probably in need of replacement.
Your STEVENS dealer has accurate measuring instruments for precise chain inspection. Replacing the chain should be left to an expert, as some of the modern chains are not equipped with a master link. Instead they often have a continuous design and require special-purpose tools for mounting. If you need help, ask your STEVENS dealer to select and mount a chain appropriate to your gear system.
Note:
For the sake of the environment, only use biodegradable lubricants. Bear in mind that some of the lubricant can end up on the ground, especially in wet conditions.
38
The Wheels
7. The Wheels
The wheels of your bicycle create the contact to the road or track you are riding on. They are subject to considerable stress through the weight of rider, the luggage and through bumpy road surfaces or ground. Although the wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes from losing a little tension on the first kilometres. Ask your STEVENS dealer to true up the wheels after you have bedded them in over about 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles).
Check the wheels regularly after you have run them in. It will rarely be necessary to tighten the spokes.
The wheel consists of hub, spokes and rim. The tyre is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running around the base of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the spoke nipples and the edges of the rim base, which are often sharp.
7.1. Tyres, Tubes, Rim Tapes, Valves, Inflation
Pressure
If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the actual size of the old tyre. It is marked on the side of the tyre. There are two designations:
One of the sizes is the standardised size in millimetres which is more precise, the number sequence 23 - 622 means that the tyre is 23 mm wide when fully inflated and has an inner diameter of 622 millimetres. The other designation for this tyre reads 23 x 7/8 which refers to inches.
Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure in order to work properly. Adequately inflated tyres are also more resistant to flats. An insufficiently inflated inner tube can easily get pinched (“snake-bite”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.
The tyres provide grip on the road which is absolutely necessary for braking, accelerating and taking turns. In addition, they provide smooth running and riding comfort by absorbing inferior shocks. The cross-country mobility or the inclination of the road depends on the nature of the tyre carcass and the tyre tread. As some of the requirements are mutually exclusive, there are many different tyre types for different uses. Ask your
STEVENS dealer to inform you about the best tyre for you.
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of the tyre or on the type label. The lower of the two pressure specifications makes for better cushioning and is therefore best for light-weigh riders riding over uneven roads. Rolling resistance decreases with growing pressure, but so does comfort. A high tyre pressure is therefore best heavyweight riders riding on tarred roads. A higher pressure hardly means a lower resistance, it only makes the tyre harder.
Caution:
Observe the specifications on the maximum pressure in the operating instructions of the rim manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM.
39
The Wheels
Danger:
Always ride your bicycle with the prescribed tyre pressure and check the pressure at regular intervals.
40
On road racing bikes it is usual to use Sclaverand or race valves. It is designed to withstand extremely high pressures
This valve is provided with a plastic cap to protect it from dirt. With race valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and press it in carefully until air starts to escape. With this valve type it may happen that the valve body is not screwed in properly and that air leaks out slowly.
Check the seat of the valve body in its stem.
Caution:
If you have a bicycle with tubular tyres, please read the instructions of the tyre or rim manufacturer on the STEVENS
CD-ROM.
Danger:
Treat your tyres well, in particular avoid sharp edges where possible! Never inflate your tyres beyond the maximum permissible pressure, otherwise they might burst or come off the rim during the ride. Risk of falling!
Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi
(pounds per square inch). The table gives the most common pressure values in terms of three systems.
Conversion table for tyre pressure psi in bar psi
30
40
50
60 bar
2.1
2.8
3.5
4.1
psi
70
80
90
100 bar
4.8
5.5
6.2
6.9
psi
110
120
130
140 bar
7.6
8.3
9.0
9.7
The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Therefore, an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure. The tube is pumped up via a valve.
An exception to this are tubeless tyres and tubular tyres. In the case of tubular tyres which must be glued to the rim the tyre provides an airtight design without inner tube. In case of a puncture there is no inner tube to be removed or repaired. This particular design requires special rims without rim flanges. Read if necessary the respective operating instructions on the STEVENS CD-ROM before working on such kind of tyres.
Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres to the necessary pressure. A better choice is a stand or foot operated pump equipped with a manometer which enables you to check the pressure at home.
Replace tyres with a worn tread or brittle or frayed sides. Dampness and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure. Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately. In the extreme case, the inner tube may suddenly burst!
The Wheels
7.2. Rim Trueness, Spoke Tension
The spokes connect the rim to the hub in the middle of the wheel. An even spoke tension makes for the true running of the wheel. If the tension of individual spokes changes, e.g. as a result of riding too fast over a kerb or due to spoke breakage, the tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no longer run true.
The functioning of your bicycle may even be impaired before you notice the wobbling appearance of a wheel that has gone out of true.
With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An untrue wheel can impair the braking effect.
It is therefore advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel from the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the gap between rim and brake pads. If the gap varies by more than a millimetre, you should ask a skilled mechanic to true up the wheel.
7.3. Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases
The wheels are fastened with the hub axles to the frame. Each axle is clamped tight in its drop-outs by means of a quick-release.
If you have a quick-release, you do not need any tool. Just release the lever, unscrew it a few turns, if necessary, and take out the wheel. This is just as easy for a potential thieve!
For this reason you can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key.
The front wheel has normally drop-out catches which are intended to hold the wheel safe in case the fastening gets loose.
Although the use of quick-releases is theoretically very easy, they have repeatedly been the cause of accidents as a result of a wrong handling.
Quick-release retention mechanisms essentially consist of two manipulable parts:
1. The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force via a cam when you close it.
2. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which the preload on the threaded rod is set.
Danger:
Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-side wobbles, the brake pads can miss the rim and get caught in the spokes!
This normally results in an immediate blocking of the wheels. Risk of falling!
Note:
Truing wheels is a difficult job which you should definitely leave to your STEVENS dealer!
41
The Wheels
Danger:
Never ride a bicycle without having first checked whether the wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose during the ride will throw you off your bicycle!
Danger:
Make sure the levers of both quick-releases are always on the side opposite the chain drive. This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way round.
7.3.1. How to Securely Fasten the Wheel
• Open the quick-release. You should now be able to read “Open” on the lever.
• Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read
“CLOSE” on the outside of the lever. From the start of the closing movement up to about the first half of its travel the lever should move very easily, i.e. without clamping the wheel.
• Over the second half of its travel, the force you need to move it, should increase considerably. Towards the end of its travel the lever should be very hard to move. Use the ball of your thumb while your fingers pull on an immovable part such as the fork or the rear frame, but not on a spoke. In its end position the lever should be parallel to the bike, i.e. it should not stick out to the side. The lever must lie close to the frame or fork so that it cannot be opened accidentally.
• To check whether the lever is securely locked try to turn it while it is closed. Press on the end of the lever from the front side.
• If you can turn the lever around, the wheel is not securely fastened.
Open it and increase the preload. Screw the tightening nut on the opposite side clockwise by half a turn.
• Close the lever again and check it again for tightness. If the lever can no longer be turned, it is properly fastened.
• Finally lift the bike a few centimetres from the ground so that the wheel is suspended and hit the tyre from above. If it is properly fastened, the wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the frame.
Note:
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.
42
The Wheels
7.3.2. Repairing Punctures
Tyre punctures can happen to any cyclist. As long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and tubes and a spare tube or a tyre repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle tour, however. For bicycles with quick-releases all you need in addition are two plastic tyre levers and a pump.
7.3.2.1. Wheel Removal
• In the case of road bike rim brakes open the release lever of the brake (Shimano) or move the pin in the brake lever/shifter unit on the handlebars (Campagnolo).
• In the case of cantilever brakes and mini V-brakes on cyclocross bicycles you first have to disengage the brake cable from the brake arm.
To do this grip around the wheel with one hand and press the brake pads and arms together. In this position the usually barrel shaped nipple can easily be disengaged.
Cantilever brakes Mini V-brakes
• If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the medium or small chainring or to the smallest sprocket before removing the wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel and the chain tension is not too high.
• Open the quick-release, as described in chapter “Wheel Fastening with
Quick-Releases”. If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever or nut, it is probably still being held in place by drop-out catches.
They come as projections which jut into the drop-outs. In these cases, just release the quick-release adjusting nut by a few turns and slip the wheel past the catch.
• You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, if you pull the rear derailleur rearwards a little.
• Lift the bicycle off the ground and give the wheel a gentle tap with your hand so that it drops out.
If you have disc brakes, check the position of the brake pads. This will help you to verify subsequently, whether the brake pads are still in the proper position after dismounting. Read the operating instructions of the brake manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM.
Danger:
Do not file off the drop-out catches!
43
The Wheels
7.3.2.2. Removing Clincher and Folding Tyres
• Screw the valve cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate the tyre completely.
• Press the tyre over its entire circumference from the sides towards the centre of the rim. This will ease the removal.
• After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever around the whole circumference.
• Now you can pull out the inner tube. Take care the valve does not get caught, as this can damage the inner tube.
Note:
If you have a puncture while riding, do not pull out the inner tube completely. Leave the valve sticking in the rim and first look for the hole where the air escapes. Pump up the inner tube. When you have found the hole, look for the corresponding place on the tyre and examine it. Often you will find the foreign body sticking in the tyre.
44
• Apply the tyre lever to one bead of the tyre close to the valve and lever the tyre out of the rim in this area. Hold the tyre lever tight in its position.
• Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a point about ten centimetres beyond the first one and lever the next portion of the bead over the edge of the rim.
• Inspect the inflated tube and look for the puncture. A bucket of water may help you.
• Repair the puncture according to the operating instructions of the repair kit manufacturer.
• After having removed the tyre, you should check the rim tape. The tape should be sound, without cracks and fit evenly on the rim base, covering all spoke ends and holes. In the case of double wall rims the tape must cover the entire rim base, but it should not be so broad as to stand up along the inside edges of the rim trough. For this type of rim only use rim tapes made of fabric or durable plastic. In case you are in doubt about the rim tape, contact your STEVENS dealer.
7.3.2.3. Mounting Clincher and Folding Tyres
When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter such as dirt or sand gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube.
• Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your thumbs, press the bead over the edge of the rim over the entire circumference. You should be able to do this without any tools, regardless of the type of tyre. Stick the valve of the tube through the hole in the rim.
• Check again the proper seat of the inner tube inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim by using the balls of your thumb. It will help you to bring the wheel to rest on your hip.
• If this does not work, you will have to use tyre levers. Make sure the blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.
• Press the valve deep into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught between rim and tyre beads. Does the valve stand upright? If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube. To make sure the tube does not get pinched between rim and bead, inflate the tyre a little and then flex it along the entire tyre circumference. While doing this you can also check whether the rim tape has been displaced.
• Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is indicated on the side of the tyre.
• Check the proper seat of the tyre by means of the “witness line” on the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim. Make sure the witness line is even with the rim edge all the way around the tyre.
• Inflate the inner tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the tube.
• To finish mounting the tyre start at the point opposite the valve. Using your thumbs, press the second bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as far as you can. Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and squashed between tyre and rim. This is prevented by pushing the inner tube into the tyre hollow with a finger as you work along.
• Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically from both sides. Towards the end you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part of the rim base. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
The Wheels
45
The Wheels
Note:
Read the operating instructions of the wheel, tyre and inner tube manufacturer.
Note:
If your bike has carbon rims, you have to use special tubular tyre glue (e.g. from
Continental). Before using it, be sure to read the operating instructions or ask your
STEVENS dealer.
46
7.3.2.4. Removing Tubular Tyres
Deflate the tyre completely. To dismount the tyre, start opposite the valve by pushing the tyre to the centre of the rim until there is a gap and the tyre starts to come off. If the tyre remains tight, stick a tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off the rim.
Replacing an individual tube is impossible. Instead you have to mount a complete tubular tyre. En route the tyre cannot be glued and is consequently not tight on the rim even when inflated.
Therefore, be sure to ride back very slowly and carefully by taking the shortest way possible. Back home, you have to glue the tubular tyre, as described in the following.
7.3.2.5. Mounting Tubular Tyres
To ensure a durable fit, a tubular tyre needs to be mounted carefully. The mounting needs to be carried out in several steps and may require a little time. A little practice and experience with the glue you are using and the respective tubular model can speed up the job.
There are two possibilities of gluing a tubular tyre to the rim, i.e. with adhesive tape or with liquid tyre glue. Using adhesive tape will speed up the mounting, the tyre, however, will not fit as reliable as with liquid glue. In the event of a puncture the tape remains often on the dismounted tyre and your spare tyre may not stick to the rim sufficiently well.
A better alternative is to apply several layers of liquid tyre glue. The layer of glue will remain on the rim even after tyre removal and fix the spare tyre still sufficiently for your ride home.
Afterwards, however, the spare tyre has to be removed and fixed with a new layer of tyre glue. Tyre glue also sticks to fingers and clothing. Put on old working clothes when mounting tyres.
Remove the protective valve cap and screw a valve extension, if necessary, to the valve head unscrewed before, if you intend to mount the tyre on a deep rim.
The Wheels
Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and then stick the valve through the hole in the rim.
Starting from the valve and working in both directions, press the tyre into the tyre bed all the way round, as described further below.
If you are unable to mount the tyre completely on the rim or only with excessive forces, you may not be able to mount it properly. Do not stretch the tyre by putting your foot in the tyre and pulling it forcefully upwards with both hands. Ask instead some one to help you.
Please note that you must be careful when riding with a tyre that is not glued.
7.3.2.6 Mounting Wheels
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the fork legs or the rear and chainstays.
Check the proper seat of the quick-release and the drop-out catches and hook in the brake cable immediately or close the release lever or the pin.
If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between the brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators in their correct position. Make sure you guide the rotor between the brake pads carefully.
Danger: Before you set off again connect the brake cable, if necessary, and check whether the brake pads hit the braking surfaces. Make sure the wheel is properly seated and firmly fixed in the drop-outs. After mounting the wheel make sure the brake pads or the rim are free of grease or other lubricants. Be sure to do a brake test!
Inappropriate wheel mounting can make you loose control of your bicycle and result in an accident!
Danger:
With a tyre changed en route be sure to ride back carefully.
Danger:
A poorly glued tyre can come off the rim. Risk of accident.
Caution:
For your own safety, have a tubular tyre mounted by a
STEVENS dealer.
47
The Headset
Danger:
Riding the bike with a loose headset increases the stress on fork and bearing. This can result in fork breakage with severe consequences!
Caution:
Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience and should therefore be left to your STEVENS dealer.
If you want to try it on your own, be sure to read the operating instructions of the headset manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM before doing any adjusting.
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8. The Headset
The headset connects fork, stem, handlebars and front wheel to the frame, but allows them to turn freely as a unit. It must turn with virtually no resistance, if the bicycle is to run straight, stabilising itself as it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the headset to considerable levels of stress. It may therefore happen to become loose and maladjusted.
8.1. Checking the Bearing Play
• Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head cup.
• Pull the front brakes with your other hand and push the bicycle firmly back and forth with the wheel remaining on the ground.
• If there is play in the bearing, the upper head cap will move noticeably relative to the lower cup and you will feel a jerk.
• Another way to check the headset is to lift the front wheel a little off the ground and then let it drop. If there is play in the bearing, you will hear a rattling noise in this area.
• To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the frame until the front wheel no longer touches the ground. Move the handlebars from the left to the right. The front wheel should turn very easily from far left to far right and back without catching anywhere. A light tap on the handlebars should be enough to turn the wheel to the side.
8.2. Adjusting the Threadless Headset:
Aheadset® Headsets
The special feature of this system is that the stem is not encased by, but rather clamped onto the steerer tube, which in this case is threadless.
The stem is an important part of the headset bearings. Its clamping force secures the bearing in its set position.
Some frames are delivered with the headset already mounted in the head tube. The headset is then no longer visible. There is a seamless transition of spacer and the fork into the head tube. The adjustment of the bearing is the same as with the usual Aheadset®-headset. But in this case you check the bearing play in the transition area of frame and fork.
The Headset
• Release the clamping bolt(s) located on the side of the stem by one to two complete turns.
• Gently tighten a little the countersunk adjusting bolt on the top, i.e. by a quarter turn at the most, by using an Allen key.
• Realign the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slanted when the wheel points straight ahead.
• Retighten a little the clamping bolt(s) of the stem until the stem no longer turns relative to the fork. Do not exceed the torque values specified by the stem manufacturer, see chapter “Recommended Torque
Settings“.
• Check the headset for play, as described further above. Take care not to overtighten the bearings, as this could easily damage them.
Caution: In the case of full carbon forks the torque values are often clearly below the specifications of the stem manufacturers. A sufficient clamping is usually already achieved with inferior forces. Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps until the stem no longer turns relative to the fork or front wheel. Too high torque values can destroy the steerer tube! To ensure a larger clamping surface, slide a spacer on top of the stem (picture on the left).
Caution:
Do not overtighten the upper bolt, it only serves the purpose of adjusting the bearing play, not of securing the stem!
Danger:
Check the secure seat of the stem after having adjusted the bearings, by holding the front wheel between your knees and trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel. A loose stem can throw you off your bicycle!
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Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
If your STEVENS component produces any creaking or cracking noises or show any external sign of damage, such as gouges, cracks, dents, discolourations etc., do not use the bicycle any longer.
Contact your STEVENS dealer immediately; they will check the component thoroughly!
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9. Special Characteristics of Carbon and
Framesets
As is the case with all lightweight products and in particular with products made of carbon (carbon-fibre-reinforced plastics), also referred to as CRP, some characteristics have to be kept in mind with the STEVENS carbon components.
Carbon is an extremely strong material which combines high resistance with low weight. However, carbon is brittle and when subject to an overload it does not show any deformation, even though its inner structure may be damaged already. In contrast to steel or aluminium, carbon components that have sustained damage to their inner fibres as a result of excessive stress will show no outwardly visible deformation.
Carbon components that have been subjected to overstress are liable to fail during use, possibly causing an accident with unforeseeable consequences. If you have had a critical incident with your bicycle, we advise you to have the relevant component inspected or the whole bicycle by your STEVENS dealer. If necessary, they can contact our after-sales department for any inquiries.
For safety reasons components made of carbon must not be repaired. Replace a damaged component immediately! Prevent further use by third parties.
Components made of carbon should under no circumstances be exposed to excessive heat. Therefore, never have a carbon component enamelled or powder-coated. The temperatures required for doing so could destroy it. Do not leave carbon items in a car in direct sunlight for prolonged periods or near sources of heat.
Like all extremely lightweight components, carbon components have a limited service life. The handlebars and stem should therefore be replaced at regular intervals, e.g. every 3 years, depending on frequency and intensity of use, even if they have not been involved in accidents or similar incidents.
9.1. Care Instructions
Components made of carbon reinforced fibre should be cleaned with a soft rag and clear water. Add, if necessary, a little washing up liquid. Remove tough stains of oil or grease with a petroleum-based cleaning agent. Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, trichloroethylene, methyl chloride etc., solvents or non-neutral, chemical or solvent-containing cleaning agents that could attack the surface!
You can use car wax to protect the surface and make it shine. Polishing agents contain solid constituents that might attack the surface.
Carbon and Framesets
9.2. Aluminium and Carbon Framesets
STEVENS offers certain high-quality carbon and high-end aluminium frames as bare framesets with fork. The person completing the frame and mounting the add-on parts must therefore ensure that all components are compatible and properly mounted. STEVENS cannot be held responsible for any component combination possible. For this reason it absolutely impossible to describe every conceivable option in this manual. For this reason, we strongly advise you to carefully read the component manufacturers’ operating instructions, as well. You find these instructions on the
STEVENS CD-ROM.
Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, depending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work.
For some jobs you may require additional (special) tools, e.g. a torque wrench, or supplementary instructions.
Improper assembly can render the bicycle unsafe. Have your bicycle therefore assembled by an authorized STEVENS partner.
Frames are delivered ready for assembly, i.e. with threads cut and bearing seats and seat tube faced. There is no need for any reworking on the frame.
Do not modify the frame or its functioning parts, e.g. the adjustable cable guides etc., by filing, boring or the like.
Be sure to use high-quality assembly grease when mounting add-on parts to the frame. Except: for carbon seat posts in general, but also for aluminium seat posts in carbon frames and stems on carbon forks. In these cases you should use special carbon assembly paste. This helps to avoid corrosion. Otherwise you may find it impossible to disassemble the bicycle after a certain period of time.
In the case of road racing and cyclocross frames a fork is included. Please note the mounting instructions in chapter “STEVENS Carbon Forks”.
Caution:
Do not clamp the frame on an assembly stand by its tubes!
This could cause damage to the thin-walled tubes. First mount a sturdy aluminium seat post and use this to clamp the frame, or use an assembly stand which holds the frame at three points from inside or which holds the fork and bottom bracket shell.
Caution:
For your own safety, never do any work unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt, ask your
STEVENS dealer for help!
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Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
Whoever assembles the bicycle from a bare frame carries the responsibility for ensuring that the components are selected and mounted in accordance with the manufacturers’ guidelines, generally accepted standards and the state of the art in science and technology. In case there are any questions regarding compatibility of individual parts with the frame, please contact our after-sales department.
Seat Post
In the case of most STEVENS road and cyclocross frames, the seat post diameter must be 27.2 ± 0.05 mm. Exception: the Vuelta models and the cyclocross carbon frame, for which a seat post diameter of 32.4 ± 0.05 mm is required. Please note the instructions on mounting and adjusting the seat post and the saddle in chapter “Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height”.
Headset
All frames are delivered with fully mounted bearing cups and an integrated headset.
Bottom Bracket Bearing
Thread type: BSC 1.270 x 24TPI, (right side left hand threading!)
The housing width is 68 ± 0.5 mm.
Pressfit BB 86 with 86 mm
Read the section “STEVENS carbon forks”, before starting any work on the fork.
Common cartridge bearings can be mounted directly into the bottom bracket shell of all models with high-grade grease. Observe the torque specifications of the bottom bracket manufacturer.
Some (carbon) frames have a threadless pressfit bottom bracket, the shell width is 86.5 mm. In this case the bearing cups are press fitted directly into the frame. For mounting and dismounting of such pressfit bottom brackets contact your STEVENS dealer.
Rear Frame Width
All frames: 130±0.5 mm
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Note:
Some components have torque values printed or labelled on them. Be sure to observe these specifications. Also observe the operating instructions of the component manufacturers on the STEVENS CD-ROM.
Replaceable Derailleur Hanger
Secure the bolts with medium/strong non-permanent threadlocker (removable with tools) and observe the torque value of 2 - 3 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum torque of 3 Nm.
9.3. STEVENS Carbon Forks
9.3.1. Readjusting the Headset
Read the operating instructions of the headset manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM and the information in chapter “The Headset” before adjusting the headset.
Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts the stem can crush the steerer tube. Use a torque wrench and tighten carefully by approaching in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) the prescribed maximum torque value as described in chapter “Recommended Torque Settings”.
Carbon and Framesets
Bottle Cage
Observe a torque value of 2 - 3 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum torque of 3 Nm.
Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maximum permissible torque in small steps. Check the secure seat of the component, as described in the relevant chapters.
For parts with no torque range given, tighten the bolts gradually and check in between regularly the reliable fit of the component.
Do this by taking the front wheel between your knees and trying to turn the handlebars including stem. In case the stem can still be turned relative to the front wheel or fork, increase the torque value gradually. Do not exceed the recommended maximum torque value.
Danger:
Do not exceed the torque value prescribed by the stem manufacturer and the maximum torque value of 4-5 Nm for the fork! Check the torque values of all bolts after the first 100 to 300 km (60 to 180 miles) and subsequently every
1,500 km (900 miles).
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Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
Observe the catches at the drop-outs and do not remove them. These catches are designed to prevent the front wheel from loosing in case the quick-release fails.
9.3.2. Mounting Forks with CRP Steerer Tube from the
STEVENS Frameset
The cutting of the steerer tube, the press fitting of the crown race and the mounting of the fork into the frame are jobs for a mechanic. Have this work done by an authorized dealer. An unauthorized mounting and maintenance will render the warranty void. Be sure to strictly observe each of the following instructions. Non-observance of these instructions can result in a fork failure and lead to a crash with serious consequences.
• Be sure to use exclusively the cone mechanism supplied together with the bolt and the cap as counter bearing for the adjusting bolt of the headset. Do not use a star nuts and clamp mechanisms which are not flush, they can damage the steerer tube.
few millimetres above the upper edge of the stem; it is therefore too tight and damaged! Mount a spacer which is free of burrs above the stem to enlarge the surface,
• STEVENS carbon steerer tubes are manufactured with fine tolerances.
For this reason the stems normally fit snugly on the fork steerer tube.
Do not mount stems that have play on the fork steerer.
• Do not apply any grease or oil on the fork steerer tube in the stem clamping area! Use special carbon assembly paste to increase the clamping force.
• Adjust the headset, as described in chapter “The Headset“.
• If you have strictly followed the above instructions, you will not need high torque values for the clamping bolts. The recommended torque value is 4 - 5 Nm depending on the stem type. Use a torque wrench and approach this value gradually in steps (0.5 Nm increments). Check the tight fit of the stem relative to the fork by trying to turn the handlebars relative to the front wheel.
Danger:
Do not use a star nut as counter bearing or a stem system without counter bearing
(expander cone design).
Note:
We recommend that you use stems that are especially designed for carbon steerer tubes, e.g. from Oxygen or
Deda.
54
• Be sure to only use stems with symmetrical outer clamping, i.e. the clamping should be provided over the entire circumferential surface.
Stems which are clamped in an asymmetrical way can damage the steerer tube.
• The stem clamping area must be free of burrs and the fork steerer must have enough support inside the stem. Stems with many recesses in the clamping area or with a recess in the clamping area pointing towards the stem are not suitable. The steerer tube possibly comes out only a
• If there is no extra long nut delivered with the fork, use the sleeve nut supplied by the brake manufacturer for brake mounting. Make sure the nut has a minimum grip of 8 turns at least!
9.4. STEVENS Scorpo and Campagnolo
Carbon Wheels
As the carbon wheels mounted are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they have outstanding aerodynamic properties and low weight.
a. The wheels are exclusively for use in track races, road races and triathlon sports. The wheels are not suitable for riding on unpaved roads, off-road and for jumps etc. In addition, they are not suitable for towing a trailer and for riding with heavy luggage.
b. Make sure the maximum overall weight of rider, baggage (rucksack) and bicycle does not exceed 100 kg. Trailer towing is not permitted in general.
c. Check the condition of the brakes and make sure you only ride with brake pads that are suitable for carbon rims!
9.4.1. What to Bear in Mind When Braking
With Carbon Wheels
As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are some things to keep in mind. Only use brake pads that are suitable for carbon wheels, e.g. from
Shimano or Campagnolo, as they are designed to suit such type of rims.
Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions. Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of traffic until you have full control of your bicycle.
The braking surfaces of the carbon rims are sensitive to heat. Therefore, when you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g. with a permanently activated rear wheel brake may heat up the material and result in a deformation. The rim may sustain damage and the inner tube may burst, thus causing an accident.
Always use both brakes simultaneously and release them intermittently to allow the material to cool off.
Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
Check the condition of the brake pads at short intervals, as they wear down faster than with aluminium rims.
Danger:
Keep the particularities of braking in mind, in particular when riding in the mountains.
55
Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
If you have Scorpo wheels for clincher tyres, do not exceed the maximum pressure of
8 bar!
Danger:
Please note that wet weather reduces the braking effect considerably. Keep this fact in mind in particular when riding on a wet road and do not ride as fast as you would in dry conditions.
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9.4.2. Care Instructions
A care matching the needs of the material increases the joy of riding as well as the service life. Please observe the care instructions in the operating instructions.
Make absolutely sure to keep the braking surfaces free of any cleaning agent, grease or oil as the brakes will fail otherwise.
9.4.3. Truing the Wheels
The special wheel spanner wrench supplied together with the wheels will help you true the wheels. Strip off the rim tape to reach the spoke nipples in the rim. Please note that truing wheels is a job best left to a skilled mechanic. Therefore, ask your bicycle dealer to do the job; they have the necessary tools, e.g. a tensiometer.
Check the rim tape before using it again. If it is brittle or rough, replace it immediately.
9.4.4. Mounting the Wheels
For more information on mounting clincher and folding tyres see chapter
“The Wheels”.
Mounting tubular tyres: Observe the instructions of the tyre or tyre glue manufacturer when you intend to mount tubular tyres. STEVENS recommends that you do not use adhesive tape, as a safe fit of the tyre is only ensured with a properly applied bed of tyre glue layers.
To mount the wheelset into the frame and the fork you have to be familiar with the use of quick-releases (see chapter “Wheel Fastening with
Quick-Releases”) as well as with wheel removal and mounting (see chapter “The Wheels”).
Make sure you inflate the tyres to the proper tyre pressure. For STEVENS
Scorpo carbon wheels for clincher or folding tyres the maximum pressure permitted is: 8 bar = 116 PSI. Do not exceed this maximum pressure.
If you have tubular tyres, observe the pressure specifications of the tyre manufacturer.
Replace worn down tyres in time, in particular when the tyre sides are brittle.
Carbon and Framesets
9.5. Ritchey Handlebars Made of Carbon
• Ritchey racing bars made of carbon are only for use on road racing machines, triathlon and cyclocross bicycles and their typical use.
• Do not use clip-on or aero parts on carbon racing bars.
• Do not modify or change the handlebars or the stem.
• Make sure the brake levers are always within easy reach.
9.5.1. Mounting
• Verify that the stem and the handlebars tube always have matching clamp diameters! Stems with a 31.8 mm clamping are for example only compatible with handlebars with a clamping diameter of 31.8 mm.
We recommend that you always combine components of the same manufacturer, as they are designed to fit and function as an integrated system.
STEVENS assume no liability for problems resulting from carbon handlebars delivered by STEVENS combined with an unsuitable stem.
In case you prefer the stem of another manufacturer, please contact their sales department and get more information on the clamping diameter and combination possibility with carbon handlebars. Also observe in this case the mounting instructions of the stem manufacturer.
• Before mounting check all clamping surfaces of the stem for sharp edges and burrs. Do not use such stems, but replace them instead. If you have no choice, remove these sharp edges or burrs on your own.
Replace the handlebars of an existing stem, also check the handlebars after removal. Notches in the clamping area indicate defective processing of the stem in these areas. If you fit a new stem on a full carbon fork, check the steerer tube.
Ask your STEVENS dealer in case you have the slightest doubt and replace, if necessary, the damaged part. Your safety comes first.
Make sure the clamping areas are absolutely free of grease, especially when the clamping surfaces are made of carbon. Use special carbon assembly paste to increase the clamping force.
• Slide the stem onto the fork steerer tube. It should fit snugly onto the fork. Do not fit stems which have play on the steerer tube. Mount your new carbon handlebars and make sure it is accurately centred in the stem. The handlebars should slide easily into the stem clamp. There should be no play. Make sure the ends of the drop bar are in parallel to the ground or point slightly downward.
• Tighten the greased bolts of the stem faceplate with your fingers by a few turns. Tighten the bolts until the clamping slots between the stem body and the faceplate are identical in width in the top and in the bottom area.
Danger:
Mounting non-matching parts may cause the clamping to fail and lead to a serious crash.
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Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
Do not exceed the maximum torque values specified by the stem, handlebars or fork manufacturers! Check the torque values of all bolts after the first 100 to 300 km (60 to
180 miles) and subsequently every 1,500 km (900 miles).
Caution:
Handlebars or brake levers/ shifters can damage the frame when they are turned too far to the side. If you have a carbon frame this can lead to cracks in the top tube. This is a typical damage of many bicycles and therefore not covered by the warranty.
58
• Tighten the fixing bolts alternately and in small increments to the minimum limit of the recommended torque settings by using a torque wrench. In the case of stems with four-bolt clamping, be sure to tighten the bolts in a cross pattern. Check the reliable fit as described in the operating instructions. In case the handlebars and the stem are still not tight enough, increase the torque value until you have reached the maximum torque value indicated by the manufacturer.
• Check the reliable fit once again as described in the operating instructions. If a tight clamping of the handlebars in the stem or of the stem on the fork cannot be achieved , the handlebars and the stem or the stem and the fork are not compatible. Replace the stem by a suitable model.
• Check the shift/brake levers or the brake levers for burrs and sharp edges in the clamping areas. Remove the clamping bands completely from the lever control before sliding them on the handlebars. Avoid rotatory movements during mounting in general to avoid scratches.
Screw the clamps to the brake lever/shifter control after having positioned the bands.
Read the operating instructions of the brake lever/shifter manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM before mounting.
• After you have found the correct position of the brake lever/shifter units, tighten the clamping bolts to the minimum value of the recommended torque value. In case the brake lever/shifter units are still not tight enough, increase the torque value until you have reached the maximum torque value specified by the component manufacturer.
Carbon and Framesets
9.6. Ritchey Seat Posts Made of Carbon
Carbon seat posts are only for use on road racing machines, triathlon and cyclocross bicycles and their typical use.
Insert carbon seat posts only in frames with suitable seat post clamping.
Special seat post clampings reduce the forces occurring at the clamping slot. Clamping areas with two or more clamping slots are perfect. They provide an even spreading of the clamping forces, reduce the occurring pressure and hence the risk of breakage.
9.6.1. Mounting the Seat Post
Read chapter “Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height” before mounting and observe the working steps and information described there.
Make sure your new seat post has the same diameter as the seat tube of your frame. See chapter “Aluminium and Carbon Framesets“. You should be able to insert the seat post easily into the frame without pressing or turning. A mismatch between frame and seat post can cause failure of the seat post.
Before mounting the seat post to the frame, make sure the seat tube is absolutely free of lubricants, sharp edges and burrs. Clean and deburr the seat tube, if necessary. Use special carbon assembly paste to increase the clamping force.
Make sure not to overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Overtightening may cause a seat post failure, resulting in a crash and/or injury of the rider.
Danger:
Even a slight mismatch between seat post and seat tube diameter or oil and grease in the seat tube can lead to a rupture of the carbon seat post. This can result in an accident or injury to the rider.
Danger:
The minimum insertion depth of your seat post in the frame is 100 mm. Never ride your bicycle with the minimum mark of the seat post being visible.
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Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Note:
When buying pannier bags, make sure they are watertight so that your belongings are protected and you will not have any unpleasant surprises after the first rain shower.
Danger:
Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards, carrier systems etc. can impair the functioning of your bicycle. This may result in a loss of control of your bike and in a fall. Always ask your STEVENS dealer for advice before mounting any kind of accessories to your bicycle.
10. Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
10.1. Helmets
Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Frequent counter-arguments, such as poor ventilation, high weight and awful designs can no longer be maintained with the latest helmets. Your STEVENS dealer has a wide range of stylish helmets in various sizes. Take your time when buying a helmet and wear the one you have chosen for while. A good helmet should fit accurately and should not hurt. Make sure that the helmet complies with the testing standards.
10.2. Transporting Luggage
If your bicycle has a carrier system, you can take lightweight luggage with you on the carrier plate. For the riding behaviour of the bicycle this is the worst option. We recommend that you carry luggage in stable pannier bags with a very low centre of gravity.
The carrier systems on STEVENS bicycles are designed for different luggage loads. Please note that the maximum load for narrow carrier systems is 15 kg and for wide carrier systems 30 kg.
Another possibility of transporting luggage are handlebar bags. They often have snap buckles for quick mounting and removal. Handlebar bags are particularly suitable to carry valuable objects and photographic equipment with you.
Lowrider bags fitted at the front of the bicycle are mounted to the fork by means of special holders. They are an additional option for a long trip.
Heavy luggage should be transported in these bags, where the effects on the riding behaviour are less important.
10.3. Accessories
There are lots of accessories on the market which are intended to provide more fun for cycling. Cycle computers are on top of the list. They measure riding and average speed, daily and annual mileage and riding time.
High-end models indicate the highest speed, differences in altitude, pedalling cadence and many other things.
The most important accessories for a successful cycle tour are a tyre pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers, the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone, if necessary, and a little cash. In this way you will be well prepared in the event of a puncture or some other mishap.
Before buying any additional bells, horns or lighting accessories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads.
Battery/accumulator-operated lights have to be marked with the wavy line and the letter “K” (see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on
Public Roads”). Keep in mind to take a lock with you, as bicycles are stolen often. Your STEVENS dealer will be pleased to inform you about the different security levels of locks.
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Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
10.4. Bicycle Transport by Car
Transporting your bicycle is very easy. Nearly every car accessory dealer and car company offer carrier systems that allow the transport of a bicycle without disassembly. The usual design involves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping the down tubes. These systems are not suitable for light-weight aluminium frames or carbon frames.
Rear carriers are becoming more and more popular. Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them.
• Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety standards of your country.
• Read the operating instructions and observe the maximum load capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.
• Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are not hidden from view. For some carriers a second exterior rear view mirror may be necessary.
Danger: Do not buy a carrier on which the bicycle has to be mounted upside down, i.e. with the handlebars and saddle fixed face down to the carrier. This way of fastening the bicycle exposes handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress during transport. Risk of breakage!
Caution:
Bear in mind that your car has a greater overall height with the bicycle on it. Measure the overall height and place a sign stating the height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steering wheel so that it can be easily seen.
Caution:
If your bicycle frame has large-diameter or non-circular tubes made of aluminium or CRP tubes (e.g. oval or aero tubes), do not clamp your bicycle with the usual clamps to the carrier system of your car.
Note:
Damage to carbon frames caused by clamping claws is excluded from warranty/ guarantee.
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Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
10.5. Bicycle Transport in a Bicycle Case or in a
Sturdy Bicycle Carton
To bring your bicycle safe to the destination by plane, you either need a special bicycle case or a bicycle carton which you can obtain from your
STEVENS dealer. Please note that wider cardboard cartons are usually more suitable than narrow and high ones. The STEVENS bag is another option for a safe and comfortable bicycle transport.
What you need in any case are spacers which have to be inserted in the drop-outs in place of the wheels. You can get them from your bicycle dealer.
The following tips apply to bicycle cases as well as to cardboard cartons.
Caution:
In case you pack your bicycle without mounting spacers in place of the removed wheels, the frame is at risk of being damaged.
Unscrew the pedals. Note that the left pedal has a left-handed thread that has to be released clockwise. Pedals come off suddenly; therefore, use an offset wrench and position the tool in a way that the hand moves away from the pointed teeth when you start to unscrew the pedal.
Shift to the large chainring and the smallest sprocket. Open the release lever of the brake and remove the front wheel. Insert the spacers into the drop-outs of the fork.
Remove the rear wheel and make sure to slide a spacer between the axle mounts (drop-outs) of the rear frame. After having mounted the spacers the chain should be tensioned. Fix this holder with cable ties or copper wire to the chainstays.
Danger:
Remove the staples from the opened flaps of the cardboard carton. Otherwise you may hurt yourself or damage the bicycle. Strip off old address labels, as well.
Fill the bottom with pieces of carton to prevent bulges or dents in case moisture will affect the cardboard.
62
Turn the crank in parallel to the chainstay and fix the pedal eye with wire to the chainstay. Fix the chain where it runs on the chainring and where it leaves it. This prevents the chain from coming off and causing damage.
The sharp-edged chainring is padded.
Take hold of the rear derailleur with one hand so that it doesn’t come off uncontrolled due to the spring tension. Release the bolt and dismount it. Protect the chainstay with air-cushioned foil or foam tubes, e.g. from warm water tubes. Fix the rear derailleur about in the centre to the protected stay.
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
63
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Fabricate a sturdy holder for the bottom bracket case from cardboard carton or hard foam to protect the chainring or ask your bicycle dealer for help. You can also use two supports for the fork and the drop-outs.
Release the clamping bolts of the handlebars and the steerer tube on the stem by two to three turns.
Turn the stem which is mobile now by 90° relative to the fork so that the handlebars are in parallel to the direction of travel. Turn the handlebars, if necessary, downwards until it hangs around the top tube. Retighten the bolts slightly. Protect the entire frame with air-cushioned foil or foam tubes. Lift the frame carefully into the cardboard carton and place the bottom bracket on the support.
If the bicycle doesn’t fit into the cardboard carton, you have to dismount the seat post, if necessary. Mark it with a pen. This will help you to find the proper height and alignment right away on the spot. Prepare a cardboard padding for the seat tube. It should fix the position of the frame and fill the space to the cover.
64
Slide a piece of sturdy cardboard over the long side into the bicycle carton to create a second compartment for the wheels. Remove the quick-releases from the hubs and pack the wheel with air-cushion foil. A rag over the sprockets keeps the packaging clean and can be used for bicycle care at a later date. Slide the wheels into the carton. The sprockets should show to the inside and be positioned in the area of the frame triangle, where they cannot cause any damage.
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Pack the quick-releases, the pedals, the necessary tool, rags, chain oil and penetrating lubricant, a pocket knife, adhesive tape for re-closing and this manual into a box. Close the box and insert it into the bicycle carton in a way that it provides stiffness.
Use additional rags or air-cushion foil to protect the bicycle, if necessary.
Finish by marking “This side up” or arrows on the carton. Further options are markings, such as “Caution bicycle inside!”.
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Warranty and Guarantee
Note:
The coating/paint of frames and forks is subject to particular consideration, i.e. the coating is, by nature, exposed to stress during use and can wear down or be affected by minor damage. This type of wear or damage as a result of mechanical stress
(e.g. scratches due to rough contact with other objects) is not covered by the terms of warranty.
Note:
The law referring to full warranty rights is only valid in the countries where the law has been ratified according to the renewed European regulations. Please inform yourself about the situation in your country.
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11. Warranty and Guarantee for STEVENS
Bicycles
11.1. Warranty
Your STEVENS bicycle was manufactured with care. Normally it is delivered to you by your STEVENS dealer fully mounted. As direct purchaser you have full warranty rights within the first two years after purchase.
Please contact your STEVENS dealer in the event of defects. To ensure a smooth handling of your claim, it is necessary to present your receipt, your bike card, the handover report and the stamped service reports.
Therefore, please keep these documents in a safe place.
To ensure a long service life and good durability of your STEVENS bicycle, use it only for its intended purpose (see chapter “Before Your First
Ride“). Please also observe the permissible load specifications as specified there and in the bike card. Be sure to strictly follow the mounting instructions of the manufacturers (above all the tightening torques of the bolts) as well as the prescribed maintenance schedule. Please observe the checks and routines that are listed in the present user manual and the manuals supplied or the replacement of safety-relevant components, such as handlebars, brakes etc, if necessary.
11.2. A Note on Wear
Some components of your STEVENS bicycle are subject to wear due to their function. The rate of wear will depend on care and maintenance and the way you use your pedelec (mileage, riding in the rain, dirt, salt etc.).
Bicycles that are often left standing in the open may also be subject to increased wear through weathering.
These wearing parts require regular care and maintenance. Nevertheless, sooner or later they will reach the end of their service life, depending on conditions and intensity of use. These components must be replaced once they have reached their limit of wear: a. Drive chain b. Brake pads c. Brake fluid (DOT) d. Brake discs/rotors e. Brake cables and housings f. Seals of suspension elements g. Grip coverings or bar tape h. Bowden cables and housings i. Chainrings j. Tyre k. Sprockets l. Saddle covering m. Pulley wheels n. Lubricants
Warranty and Guarantee o. The pads of rim brakes are subject to wear due to their function. If you use your bicycle for competitive cycling or in hilly terrain, the brake pads may have to be replaced quite frequently. Check your brake pads regularly and have them replaced by your STEVENS dealer, if necessary.
p. Rims of rim brakes
Braking causes wear not only to the brake pads, but also to the rims.
Therefore, check your rims regularly, e.g. when inflating the tyres.
Rims with wear indicators have rings or a gap that come into view when the rim reaches its limit of wear. There are some models where the wear indicators disappear, when the rim thickness has reached a critical point. Observe the specifications marked on the rim. Ask your
STEVENS dealer to examine the remaining thickness of the rims at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads. Rim walls that become deformed or show hair cracks when the tyre pressure is increased have reached the end of their service life. The rim must be repaired.
q. Lighting set and reflectors
The lighting is essential for your safety on the road, especially at night.
Check the function and condition of the reflectors before every ride.
11.3. Warranty Rules of STEVENS
Vertriebs GmbH
STEVENS Vertriebs GmbH guarantees the quality and durability of the
STEVENS bicycles. A STEVENS bicycle is a bicycle suitable for its intended purpose which we have assembled using components and branded accessories of well renowned manufacturers. Should defects occur to the bicycle or one of its parts during the warranty period, we will, at our choice, repair or replace it, with you (as the first buyer) having to tolerate minor deviations in model, dimensions and colour. Suspension forks, Shimano components and other branded accessories are not handled through
STEVENS but through the part manufacturers’ national distributors. For any complaints about goods of other brands, even if they have been sold and supplied by us, please first contact the distributor, or the manufacturer directly, and use their forms.
On the manufacturers’ websites, you can usually also find manuals and technical instructions as well as contacts for further questions. In all cases, the specialist STEVENS dealer is the person to contact and accepts end-users’ enquiries.
From the date of the sale to the first buyer, the warranty periods will be
• Aluminium frames and forks* 5 years
• Carbon frames and forks* 5 years
• Full suspension frames* 5 years
• Other components 2 years
Note:
The rights of the end-user/ customer from the warranty remain unaffected by the present guarantee.
Note:
* The coating/paint of frames and forks is subject to particular consideration, i.e. the coating is, by nature, exposed to stress during use and can wear down or be affected by minor damage. This type of wear or damage as a result of mechanical stress
(e.g. scratches due to rough contact with other objects) is not covered by the terms of warranty.
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Warranty and Guarantee
Danger:
Ask your STEVENS dealer to check your STEVENS bicycle after a fall. If you are in doubt, replace at least handlebars and stem to be on the safe side.
Note:
If you use your STEVENS bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of your country. Pay particular attention to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed lighting set and reflectors.
Not all STEVENS bicycles are supplied together with all necessary attachment parts.
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Please note the following rules for an easy remedy in the event of possible defects: The STEVENS warranty, which is not transferable, applies only to the first buyer and only if the customer’s sales receipt and a copy of the completed bike card and delivery receipt are presented and if the compliance with, and observance of, our above-mentioned notes contained in the manual (No. 1-13) / the operating instructions as well as the regular inspections carried out by dealers are proved (chapter “Service and
Maintenance Schedule”).
The warranty does not cover any labour or transportation costs as well as consequential costs caused by defects. Proper use is a prerequisite for services under this warranty.
Damage caused by wear and tear, neglect (lack of care and maintenance), falls, overloading, improper assembly (failure to observe the manufacturers’ assembly instructions) or care as well as changes to the STEVENS bicycle (addition or alteration of additional components) shall be excluded.
In the case of jumps or any other overloading, as well as any violation of our recommendations or those of our authorized dealers, no claims under this warranty exist.
Obvious defects of the products shall be reported within 8 days from delivery; any concealed damage shall be reported immediately after it becomes known, but within the warranty period.
In the case of any unjustified returns, we will charge a lump sum for expenses. Our warranty, which is restricted to the territory of your country, does not take into account any further claims against us, particularly any claims for price reduction or damages. The performance of services under this warranty does not mean any extension or recommencement of the warranty period.
11.3.1. Special Notes, Notes on Safety
In view of a long lifetime, a long durability of the components and any claims being made under this warranty, the manufacturers’ assembly instructions (including, without limitation, torques for screws) as well as the prescribed maintenance intervals must be observed precisely. Some examples: Rear shock fixing screws which are too tight impose a load on the frame and may cause consequential damage.
If you use your STEVENS bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of your country. Pay particular attention to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed lighting set and reflectors. Ask a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to inform you about the regulations in force in your country. The requirements of the CEN/DIN standards specific to the type of bicycle and the legislation in your country shall be taken into account by the dealer/fitter. Not all
STEVENS bicycles are supplied together with all attachment parts.
12. General Notes on Care and Servicing
The bicycle you have purchased is a product of high quality and technology. Your STEVENS dealer will have assembled and adjusted your bicycle ready for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, as with other types of vehicles, you should still see to it regularly and have your
STEVENS dealer do the scheduled maintenance work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and reliably for many miles.
This will ensure fun and safety for many years.
12.1. Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter or in sea air can harm your bicycle. You should therefore make a habit of regularly cleaning all the components of your bicycle.
The easiest way to remove dirt and minerals is by using a steam cleaner.
This cleaning method is quick, but it entails serious drawbacks. As the water is ejected at high pressure in a narrowly focussed jet, it may pass through seals and penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants and consequently to greater friction. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing races in the long term. Steam jet treatment also tends to abrade stickers.
A much more gentle way of cleaning your bicycle is with a soft water jet and/or with a bucket of water and a sponge or large brush. Cleaning your bicycle by hand has another positive side-effect in that it enables you to discover defects in the paint or worn or defective components at an early stage. After drying your bicycle you should polish its coating and metal surfaces with hard wax. Apply the hard wax also to spokes, hubs, etc.
Use a hand-held atomizer for parts with small surfaces. Inspect the chain after you have finished cleaning and grease it, if necessary (see chapter
“Chain Maintenance”).
General Notes on Care and Servicing
12.2. Safekeeping and Storing the Bicycle
If you regularly look after your bicycle during the season, you will not need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing it against theft. It is advisable to store your bicycle in a dry and airy place. There are some things to bear in mind when putting your bicycle away for the winter:
• Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the bike is not used for a long time. If your bicycle is left standing on flat tyres for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres. It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bicycle or to check the tyre pressure regularly.
• Clean your bicycle and protect it against corrosion as described above.
• Remove the seat post and allow for any moisture that may have entered to dry away. Spray a little finely atomized oil into the seat tube.
Caution: Do not grease carbon parts!
• Store your bicycle in a dry place.
• Shift the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.
Danger:
While cleaning, look for cracks, scratches, dents, as well as bent or discoloured material. If you are in doubt, contact your STEVENS dealer.
Have defective components replaced immediately and touch up paint defects.
Caution: Do not clean your bicycle with a strong water or steam jet from a short distance.
Danger:
Keep brake pads and rim sides free of grease or oil!
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Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
13. Service and Maintenance Schedule
It is advisable to have your STEVENS bicycle serviced regularly after the bedding-in period. The schedule given in the table below is a rough guide for cyclists who ride their bicycle between 1,000 and 2,000 km (600 to 1,200 miles) or 50 to 100 hours of use a year.
If you consistently ride more or if you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces, the maintenance periods will shorten accordingly.
Note:
For your own safety, bring your STEVENS bicycle to your STEVENS dealer for its first service after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles),
5 to 15 hours of initial use or three to six weeks, at the very latest, however, after three months.
70
Component What to do
Lighting
Tyres
Check function
Check pressure
Check tread and side walls
Brakes (rim brakes) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, position of pads relative to rim; test brakes in stationary
Brakes, brake pads (rim brakes) Clean
Brake cables, pads hoses
Brakes (disc brakes)
Visual inspection
Rims (of rim brakes)
Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, check seals, test brakes in stationary
Replace liquid (Dot-liquids)
Check thickness, replace if necessary
Before Every
Ride x x x x
Fork (rigid) Check and replace, if necessary
Monthly Annually Others x x x
•
• after 2nd set of brake pads at the latest
• at least every
2 years
Bottom bracket
Chain
Check for bearing play
Dismount and regrease (cups)
Check and grease, if necessary
Check wear, replace, if necessary
Derailleur Gears x x
•
• after 1,000 km
(600 miles) or
50 hours of use
Component What to do
Crank
Painted/anodised/carbon surfaces
Wheels/spokes
Handlebars and stem (made of aluminium and carbon)
Headset
Check for trueness and tension
True or retighten
Check and replace, if necessary
Metal surfaces
Hubs
Pedals (all)
Pedals (clipless)
Seat post/stem
Front/rear derailleur
Quick-releases/thru axles
Bolts and nuts (mudguards etc.)
Valves
Cables gears/brakes
Check and retighten, if necessary
Polish
Check for bearing play
Regrease
Polish (except: rim sides of rim brakes, rotors)
Check for bearing play
Regrease
Check for bearing play
Clean and grease locking mechanism
Check bolts
Disassemble and regrease
Carbon: new assembly paste (no grease!)
Clean and grease
Check seat
Check and retighten, if necessary
Check seat
Dismount and regrease
Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
Before Every
Ride
Monthly Annually Others x x at least every
6 months x
• if necessary
• every 2 years at the latest x
• x at least every
6 months x
• x x x
• x x x x
•
If you have a certain degree of mechanical skills, experience and suitable tools, such as a torque wrench, you should be able to do the checks marked x by yourself. If you will come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your
STEVENS dealer.
Jobs marked • are best left to your STEVENS dealer.
Caution:
When working on your bicycle restrict yourself to jobs for which you are equipped and have the necessary knowledge.
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Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
14. Recommended Torque Settings
All bolted connections of the bicycle components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the
STEVENS bicycle. This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages at the desired torque value or a click-type torque wrench.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) and check in between the proper fit of the component.
Where no maximum torque setting is given start with 2 Nm. Observe the indicated values and observe the values on the components and/or in the operating instructions of the component manufacturers on the enclosed STEVENS CD-ROM.
Danger:
Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!
72
Component
Rear derailleur
Bolted connections
Mount (on frame/derailleur hanger)
Cable clamp
Pulley wheels
Front derailleur Mount on frame
Shimano 1 (Nm)
8 - 10
5 - 7
3 - 4
5 - 7
Brake levers/shifter units
Hub
Cable clamp
Mount on handlebars
Flatbar
Quick-release lever
5 - 7
6 - 8
0.3 - 0.5
5 - 7.5
Locknut for bearing adjustment of quick-release hubs 10 - 25
Sprocket cluster lock ring 29 - 49
Internal gear hub Hub axle nut 30 - 45
5 - 7
5
6 - 8
SRAM/Avid 2 (Nm) Campagnolo 3 (Nm)
8 - 10 15
4 - 5 6
5
(clamp)
7
(direct mounting)
5
10
6
40 40 (11-speed)
50 (10-speed)
Component
Crank
Bolted connections
Crank mount (grease-free square-head)
Crank mount (Shimano Octalink)
Crank mount (Shimano Hollowtech II)
Crank mount (Isis)
Crank mount (Gigapipe)
Splined
Chainring mount
Shimano
35 - 50
35 - 50
12 - 15
1 (Nm) SRAM/Avid
31 - 34
48 - 54
2 (Nm)
Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
Campagnolo
32 - 38
3 (Nm)
8 - 11 12 - 14 (steel)
8 - 9 (alu)
42
8
Sealed cartridge bearing
Shell (square-head)
Shell (Shimano Hollowtech II, SRAM Gigapipe)
Octalink
Pedal axle Pedal
Shoe Cleat
Spike
Brake (V-brake) Cable clamp
Brake shoe mount
Brake pad fixing
1 www.shimano.com 2
49 - 69
35 - 50
50 - 70
35
5 - 6
4
6 - 8
6 - 8
1 - 2 www.sram.com 3 www.campagnolo.com
34 - 41
47 - 54
6 - 8
6 - 8
70
40
5
8
These values are reference values of the above-mentioned component manufacturers. Observe the values in the instructions of the component manufacturers on the STEVENS CD-ROM. These values do not apply to the components of other manufacturers.
Note: Due to the unmanageable number of components on the market, STEVENS is not in a position to foresee every product that will be replaced or newly assembled by third parties. Therefore STEVENS denies any liability for such kind of additions or modifications with regard to compatibility, torque values etc. Whoever assembles or modifies the bicycle shall ensure that the bicycle was assembled according to the state-ofthe-art in science and technology.
Note:
Some components have the maximum permissible torque values printed on them. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum torque value! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact your STEVENS dealer.
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Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
14.1. Recommended Torque Settings for Disc Brakes and Hydraulic Rim Brakes
Component
Brake calliper mount on frame/fork
Brake lever unit on handlebars
Union screws of cable at grip and normal cable at brake calliper
Brake cable connector at brake calliper (disc tube cable)
Expansion tank cap
Bleeding device brake calliper
Bleeding device brake lever
Brake rotor fixing (6-holes)
Brake rotor fixing (centerlock)
Brake pad retainer at brake calliper
Cable clamp at brake calliper
Shimano 1 (Nm)
6 - 8
6 - 8
5 - 7
5 - 7
0.3 - 0.5
4 - 6
4
40
Tektro
6 - 8
5 - 7
4 - 6
2 - 4
4 - 6
3 - 5
2 (Nm) TRP
6 - 8
6 - 8
4 - 6
3 (Nm)
1 www.shimano.com 2 www.tektro.com 3 www.trpbrakes.com
These values are reference values of the above-mentioned component manufacturers. Observe the values in the instructions of the component manufacturers on the STEVENS CD-ROM. These values do not apply to the components of other manufacturers.
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14.2. Maximum Torque Settings of Standard
Bolts
Limit values of the torque settings in newton metres (Nm) for setscrews with metric threads and head contact in accordance with DIN 912, 931,
934. The bolts are greased (friction coefficient = 0.125):
Dimension
M4
M5
M6
M8
9.5
23
M10 46
Source: VDI guideline 2230
Bolt quality (imprinted on the head)
8.8
10.2
12.9
2.7
5.5
3.8
8
4.6
9.5
13
32
64
16
39
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Please observe the minimum screw-in depth. In the case of solid (hard) aluminium alloys this depth is at least 1.4 fold the bolt diameter. In general, the weak point is not the bolt, but the component.
Conversion factors of old torque values into international SI units
1 kgfcm = 0.0981 Nm
1 in lbs = 0.112 Nm
1 Nm = 10.1931 kgfcm
1 Nm = 8.928 in lbs
Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
Danger:
Please note that the torque settings given in chapter 14. and 14.1. take priority and override any other torque values.
Caution:
Be sure to use stainless steel bolts only for mounting mudguards and accessory parts.
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Service Schedule
15. Service Schedule
1st Service
After 400 kilometres (240 miles) or three months from date of purchase
2nd Service
After 2,000 kilometres (1,200 miles) or one year
3rd Service
After 4,000 kilometres (2,500 miles) or two years
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature of dealer:
Stamp and signature of dealer:
Stamp and signature of dealer:
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Service Schedule
4th Service
After 6,000 kilometres (3,500 miles) or three years
5th Service
After 8,000 kilometres (5,000 miles) or four years
6th Service
After 10,000 kilometres (6,000 miles) or five years
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Stamp and signature of dealer:
Stamp and signature of dealer:
Stamp and signature of dealer:
77
Bike Card
Model:
Size:
Frame no.:
Frame size:
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Wheel / Tyre size:
Colour:
Extras:
Permitted overall load of the STEVENS bicycle: ..........................................kg
Carrier system permitted £ yes £ no
If yes - permitted load of carrier system:
Trailer permitted
Child seat permitted
25 kg
T no
T no
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Hint to the STEVENS dealer: Please copy this bike card and keep one copy in your customer file. Send another copy to Stevens Vertriebs GmbH directly after the sale of the STEVENS bicycle
Danger:
Brake levers / brake lever assignment:
Right lever
Left lever
Front wheel brake
Front wheel brake
£
£
Rear wheel brake
Rear wheel brake
£
£
78
Stamp and signature of the STEVENS dealer
Handover Report
The above-described STEVENS bicycle was delivered to the customer ready for use, i.e. after its final assembly, inspection and functional check as described below (additionally required routines in parentheses):
Lighting
Brakes front and rear
Chain riveting checked
Wheels (true running/spoke tension/air pressure)
Handlebars/stem (position/bolts checked with torque wrench)
Pedals (release force adjusted)
Saddle/seat post (saddle height and position adjusted to suit customer)
Gears (limit stops)
Bolted connections of add-on parts (checked)
Other routines performed:
£
£
£
£
£
£
£
£
£
The customer confirms with his signature that he has received the STEVENS bicycle in proper condition together with the accompanying documents specified below and that he has been instructed on the proper use of the STEVENS bicycle.
£
£
Test ride done:
STEVENS user manual on CD-ROM incl. operating instructions of the component
manufacturers
Customer name .....................................................................................................
Dealer name
City
Street
Phone
Fax
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First name
City
Street
Phone
Fax
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Handover date, stamp, signature Location, date, signature
79
80
STEVENSBIKES.DE
YOUR STEVENS DEALER
STEVENS VERTRIEBS GMBH I ASBROOKDAMM 35 I 22115 HAMBURG I GERMANY
PHONE: +49 40 71 60 70-0 I FAX: +49 40 46 53 14 I E-MAIL: [email protected]
Key Features
- Maximum weight capacity of 115 kg
- Sloping geometry frames
- Threadless headset systems
- Modern brake systems
- Adjustable saddle height
- Adjustable handlebar height
- Step-in pedals
- Detailed care and maintenance instructions
Frequently Answers and Questions
What is the maximum weight capacity of these bicycles?
How do I determine the correct saddle height?
What is the sloping geometry frame design?
How do I adjust the handlebar height?
What are step-in pedals?
Related
