What you need: Scissors or a pair of diagonal cutters, 5 & 6mm Metric Allen Wrench, Phillips
Screwdriver, Adjustable wrench or 15mm open end wrench.
Unpack your new bike
1 –Cut the shipping straps on the outside of the box.
2 – Remove the box staples from the box top as these are sharp and can cut you as
you access the bike. Open up the cardboard flaps and lift it out of its box.
3 –Rotate the fork so that it is facing forward of the bike (Figure 1). Place the bike on
the ground, so it’s standing upright on the fork dropouts and rear tire.
4 – Carefully cut all of the packing zip ties.
5 – Separate the front wheel from the bike by carefully slipping it away from the crank
arm, which is resting within the spokes.
6 – Remove the accessory box and set it aside.
7 – Examine your new bike for any visible damage that may have occurred during
8- Special Note: For tightening all fasteners, please refer to Appendix D in the back of
your owner’s manual for all fastener torque specifications
1 – Remove the plastic shipping plug from the top of the seat tube (Figure 2).
2 – Use the included Allen wrench to loosen the seat clamp at the top of the seat
3 – RECOMMENDED; Apply a thin layer of grease to the end of the seat post
4 - Insert the seat with the seat post into the seat tube of the frame to at least the
minimum insertion line on the shaft of the seat post. WARNING! The minimum
insertion line must NOT show above the seat tube (Figure 3).
5 - Using the Allen wrench, tighten the seat clamp once it is at the correct height.
Note: You can make the final adjustment to the height of the seat as needed after
the bike is assembled.
WARNING! Using the bike with the minimum insertion line on the lower portion of
the seat post showing above the frame could result in a failure of the seat post and/or the frame causing
a loss of control with potential injury to rider. Such failures are not covered by warranty as it is improper
use of the product.
1 – Loosen the stem bolt at the top of the stem one turn and remove
the plastic packing cap from the bottom of the stem (Figure 4).
RECOMMENDED; apply a thin layer of grease to the end of the stem
shaft by the wedge.
2 – Untwist the handlebars and control cables and insert the quill end
of the stem into the fork steer tube. You may have to loosen the bolt
and wedge a small amount to allow the quill to fit into the steer tube
(Figure 5).
3 - Make sure that the fork is facing forward and the handlebars are lined up
with the fork dropouts.
4. Adjust the height of the stem to your desired level and tighten the stem
bolt using a 6mm wrench (Figure 6). You can make final adjustments to the
height of the stem after the bike is assembled. NOTE: Be sure that the
minimum insertion mark on the shaft of the stem is inside the frame, it must
not be visible outside of the frame (Figure 7).
Installing the stem with the minimum insertion mark showing outside of the frame
could create a dangerous condition allowing the stem to break causing the rider to
lose control resulting in serious injuries to the rider (Figure 7).
Front Wheel
1 – Flip the bike over so it’s resting on the saddle and handlebars.
2 – Loosen the axle nuts most of the way on both sides of the wheel by hand.
3 – Slip the wheel into the fork dropouts.
4 – Place the safety washer hooks into the holes on the fork drop out (Figure 8).
5 – Use a 15mm wrench to tighten each axle nut, alternating between them until they are both tightly
fastened. Be sure that the wheel is centered within the fork (visually check for equal clearance on either
side of the tire) (Figure 9).
6 – Flip the bike back over, so it’s standing on its two wheels and its kickstand.
1 – Locate the pedal stamped “R” on the end of the spindle (this is the RIGHT pedal) (Figure 10).
2 – RECOMMENDED; Apply a thin layer of grease to the pedal threads
prior to installation.
Carefully insert the right pedal into the right side crank arm (the side with
the chain) and thread it clockwise
(Figure 11). You should be able to
thread the pedal in part of the way by hand with minor resistance. If it
seems difficult and binds, stop, remove the pedal, realign the threads and
try again. Be sure you are turning the right pedal axle in a clockwise
3 – Tighten the pedal with a 15mm or adjustable wrench until the pedal is
securely attached to the crank arm. The pedals need to be tightened with a
considerable amount of force so that they do not come lose.
4 – Locate the pedal stamped “L” on the end of the spindle (this is the LEFT
pedal), RECOMMENDED; apply a thin layer of grease to the pedal threads
and insert your left pedal into the left side crank arm.
5 – Thread it counterclockwise
and tighten with a 15mm or
adjustable wrench following the instructions in step #3 above (Figure 12)
NOTE: Be sure to tighten both pedals with an adjustable wrench or 15mm
open end wrench to the recommended torque specification otherwise they
will unscrew while riding causing an unsafe condition for the rider and
damaging the threads in the crank
1 – Attach the plastic brackets to the handlebar and seat post. (Figure 13)
2 – Slide the reflectors onto the brackets (white in the front, red in the back) (Figure 14)
3 – Attach the wheel reflectors onto the spokes of the wheels (if not already installed from the factory).
Brakes and Gears
NOTE: We highly recommend taking your bike to a local bike shop and having your brakes and gears (if
equipped) set-up by a professional mechanic.
1 & 3-Speed Models; these models are equipped with a foot operated rear coaster brake. No
adjustment is required. Simply push backwards on the pedals to activate the brake.
7-Speed Models; Your 7-speed bicycle is equipped with front and rear linear-
pull brakes.
A) Be sure that the brake pads are aligned with the curve of the rim and that
they contact the rim surface flat and evenly. The brake shoe angle and
height can be adjusted by loosening the Allen bolt attaching the brake
shoe to the brake arm. Notice that the brake shoe can articulate a certain
amount up and down and side to side. (Figure 15)
b) Loosen the brake cable anchor on the brake arm held by an Allen bolt
allowing the brake cable to freely glide through its anchor.
c) Squeeze the brake arms together until the brake shoes contact the rim
surface. Pull the cable taught through its anchor and tighten the cable
anchor bolt. Make sure the brake cable housing is seated properly at
the cable stop ferrules before tightening the anchor bolt. (Figure 16)
d) Squeeze the brake lever hard several times to stretch the cable and
make sure that it does not slip through its anchor. If the cable tension is
too tight to allow the brake shoes to retract and clear the rim surface,
loosen the anchor bolt and give the cable some slack. If the cable has
too much slack and you cannot apply enough stopping force to the rim,
repeat procedure “b” and take the slack out of the cable
e) Be sure that the brake arms are evenly spaced from the wheel and
there is some clearance between the brake pads and the rim surface. If
the arms are not evenly spaced from the wheel, you can balance the
spacing by tightening or loosening the spring tension using the small
screw located at the lower side of each brake arm. (Figure 17)
3-Speed Models- the gears on this model come adjusted from the factory. If the gears need adjustment:
– position the gear shift lever in 3rd gear (Figure 18) - Remove the plastic cover from the right side of the rear
wheel at the axle. Loosen the locknut at the gear cable adjusting barrel. Tighten or loosen the adjusting barrel until
you just take the slack out of the cable (Figure 19). Do not over tighten the cable. Tighten the locknut against the
adjusting barrel and re-attach the plastic cover.
When Shifting Gears:
Momentarily stop pedaling or lighten your pedaling pressure when shifting.
7-Speed Models – the gears on this model come adjusted from the factory. If the gears need adjustment, please
have this done by a professional bike shop.
When Shifting Gears:
You must be pedaling with light pedal pressure while shifting to allow the chain to shift from one gear to another.
For best results shift one gear at a time.
Locate the tire manufacturer’s recommended inflation pressure found on the tire sidewall (listed as “PSI”).
Using a hand or floor pump with a gauge, begin to inflate the tire to half its recommended inflation pressure
and check to see that the tire is properly seated on the rim. Be sure to inspect both sides of the tire for
proper fit.
If the tire is seated unevenly or bulges out along the rim, let some air out of the tire and reposition the tire
by hand so that it sits evenly all the way around the rim.
Continue to inflate the tire to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.
Do not exceed the recommended pressure as this will cause an unsafe condition potentially causing the
tire to unexpectedly explode.
Do not use a compressed air device to inflate your tires as the rapid inflation of the tire can cause it to blow
off the rim.
Tires and tubes are not warranted against damage caused by over-inflation or punctures from road
BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE - We strongly recommend you take your bike to a professional bike shop and have
them check your work and fine tune the bike to ensure your bike is safe to ride.
It is important that you locate and record the serial number of your bicycle in case of a recall or if the bicycle is
stolen. The serial number can be found under the crank bottom bracket stamped into the frame.
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