warning – brake performance is a critical safety item

warning – brake performance is a critical safety item
Installation Instructions for the Hawg Halters 4 & 6 Piston Calipers
WARNING – BRAKE PERFORMANCE IS A
CRITICAL SAFETY ITEM.
BRAKE SYSTEMS SHOULD BE INSTALLED BY A
QUALIFIED SERVICE TECHNICIAN ONLY!!!!
The master cylinder needs to be the correct size bore diameter for 100% braking efficiency.
ALL HAWG HALTERS CALIPER FRONT SINGLE DISC APPLICATIONS REQUIRE A 9/16” or 5/8”
BORE MASTER CYLINDER. ALL HAWG HALTERS CALIPER FRONT DUAL DISC APPLICATIONS
REQUIRE THE FACTORY 11/16” BORE (1984 & LATER) OR ¾” BORE HANDLEBAR MASTER
CYLINDER. REAR APPLICATIONS USING THE OLD STYLE WAGNER (CAST IRON) OR KELSEY
HAYES (DIE CAST ALUMINUM) MASTER CYLINDERS WILL NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE
OPERATING PRESSURE. IT IS SUGGESTED A LATER MODEL 5/8” BORE MASTER CYLINDER BE
RETROFITTED. 1984 AND LATER HD REAR APPLICATION O.E.M. MASTER CYLINDERS ARE THE
CORRECT SIZE PROVIDING 100% BRAKING EFFICIENCY WITH A HAWG HALTERS CALIPER.
1.
Make sure bike is secure and will not fall over.
2.
Break loose the banjo bolt on caliper but leave attached so fluid won’t leak out.
3.
Loosen and remove the two allen head bolts that attach the o.e.m. caliper to the mounting
bracket.
4.
Now carefully remove the caliper from the disc and let hang out of the way.
5.
Take your HAWG HALTERS caliper out of the box along with the hardware package. This
package should contain two copper crush washers, banjo bolt, stainless steel shims, and two 3/816 x 1” long button head screws.
6.
Using the two 3/8-16 x 1” long chrome allen screws attach the caliper to the mounting bracket or
fork leg. Snug the two screws so the caliper is firmly mounted. Now check alignment of the
centerline of the caliper to the centerline of the rotor. This can best be achieved by sighting
down the caliper where the two halves are joined together relative to the rotor.
7.
The caliper kit includes two each stainless steel shims in the following thickness-.010, .016, .032 &
.060. These shims go on the mounting bolts between the mounting bracket or fork leg and the
mounting ears on the caliper. You are to use whatever amount of shims needed to center the
caliper on the rotor. This step is very important!!!! Be sure to check for adequate clearance
between the rotor and mounting screw. If the screw contacts the rotor, remove it and use the
shims supplied as washers underneath the screw head. The wheel should turn freely at this
point. Once proper alignment is accomplished, snug one screw and remove the other so you can
apply blue Loctite to the threads. Repeat this procedure for the other screw. At this point it is
recommended the caliper be positioned to allow for maximum clearance between rotor and pad
retaining bolt by pulling the caliper in a rotational motion away from the rotor. This also takes
up any bolt hole clearance that may exist in the direction of braking force. Once completed,
tighten the screws to 25 ft-lbs of torque.
PAGE 2
8.
Remove the brake line from the o.e.m. caliper. It is recommended you fill the caliper completely
with DOT 5 brake fluid at this point to aid in bleeding the brakes. The EZ bleeder works well to
inject fluid into the caliper thru the banjo bolt hole. Make sure the bleeder screws are loose.
Once the caliper is full, tighten the bleeder screws. With the new banjo bolt and two new copper
crush washers supplied with your caliper, slide one of the crush washers onto the banjo bolt and
then slide the bolt through the banjo fitting and slide the other crush washer onto the bolt.
Screw the bolt into the caliper housing but do not tighten until after you have bled the air from
this point. Torque the banjo bolt to 20 ft/lbs. Check for leaks at this location once the system is
fully bled.
9.
If the brake pads were removed prior to caliper installation, reinstall them now making sure the
friction material is against the disc rotor and the metal backing plate is towards the pistons.
Reinstall the pad retaining bolt & stainless steel e-clip on shaft to hold the shaft in place.
(NOTE: MAKE SURE E-CLIP IS REINSTALLED PROPERLY) When fitting pads, do
not contaminate friction surfaces with fluids, oils or grease.
10. Now bleed all the air out of your brake system. Start with the lower bleeder screw and finish
with the upper. If there is any air left in the system you will not have 100% braking efficiency.
Helpful Hint: When bleeding the front caliper, make sure the handlebar master cylinder is level
and a minimum of ¾ full.
11. Check your lines and fittings for leaks and correct if necessary.
Additional InformationObserve manufacturers specifications for minimum rotor thickness. BRAKE PERFORMANCE
will be SEVERELY REDUCED by using new pads on scored or distorted rotors. Test ride bike
carefully after fitting new calipers and/or pads to acquaint yourself with brake performance. Friction levels (stopping power) will be more aggressive as compared to the o.e.m. calipers & pads, and
the rider needs to familiarize him or herself with stopping distances & brake lever pressures
needed to stop safely in both dry & wet conditions after fitting new calipers & pads.
BREAK IN / BED IN TIMESPads need up to 250 miles of regular urban use where the brakes are used frequently (not highway
cruising) to allow pads to mate with worn (or new) rotors. During this time brake performance
WILL BE LESS EFFECTIVE especially if rotors are scored or distorted. Ride motorcycle carefully
in low traffic areas at lower speeds during bed in period until 90% contact area is achieved between
pads and rotors. If you are replacing calipers and/or pads for another person be sure to warn the
rider of this potential hazard. A quick and effective way to bed in the pads is to make several
acceleration/deceleration passes and then allow them to cool.
All HAWG HALTERS calipers are guaranteed to be free from defects in material and workmanship
for a period of one year from the date of purchase.
If you have any questions call:
TOLL FREE 1-877-HHALTER (442-5837)
HAWG HALTERS, INC.
389 LUMPKIN COUNTY PARKWAY
DAHLONEGA GA 30533
06/03
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