Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents
Air filter - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Battery - check and removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . s e e Chapter 9
Brake caliper and master cylinder - seal replacement . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Brake fluid - change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Brake hoses - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Brake pads - wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Brake system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Carburettors - synchronisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Clutch - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Cooling system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Crankcase breather - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Cylinder compression - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Engine oil and oil filter - change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Final drive oil level - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Final drive oil - change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Front fork oil - change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Fuel system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Headlight aim - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Idle speed - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Nuts and bolts - tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Side stand - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Spark plug gaps - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plugs - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Stand(s), lever pivots and cables - lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering head bearings - freeplay check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering head bearing - re-greasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Suspension - check . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . / . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8
Swingarm bearings - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Swingarm bearings - re-greasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Throttle and choke cables - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Valve clearances - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Wheels and tyres - general check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Wheel bearings - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
|k Fairly easy, suitable |k
^
^ for beginner with
gS
g^ some experience
Fairly difficult,
|k
suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
ISS
Difficult, suitable for |k
experienced DIY
3^
mechanic
gS
Very difficult,
^k
suitable for expert DIY 5j
or professional
SS
Specifications
Engine
Spark plugs
Type
Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NGK DPR8EA-9 or Nippondenso X24EPR-U9
For cold climate (below 5°C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NGK DPR7EA-9 or Nippondenso X22EPR-U9
For extended high speed riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NGK DPR9EA-9 or Nippondenso X27EPR-U9
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 to 0.9 mm
Valve clearances (COLD engine)
Intake valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.13 to 0.17 mm
Exhaust valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.18 to 0.22 mm
Engine idle speed
600 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 ±100 rpm
650 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1100 ± 100rpm
Carburettor synchronisation
Maximum difference between cylinder readings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 mm Hg
Cylinder compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 ± 28 psi (13.25 ± 1.9 Bar)
Maintenance & servicing
Miscellaneous
Freeplay adjustments
Throttle grip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 to 6 mm
10 to 20 mm
Tyre pressures (cold) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Solo r i d e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front
33 psi (2.3 Bar)
Rear
33 psi (2.3 Bar)
Rider and pillion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33 psi (2.3 Bar)
41 psi (2.8 Bar)
Torque settings
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankshaft end cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14Nm
15 Nm
Timing mark inspection cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10 Nm
Valve clearance adjuster locknuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
23 Nm
Valve cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10 Nm
Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil filter cartridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
35 Nm
10 Nm
Final drive oil filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Final drive oil drain bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12 Nm
20 Nm
Side stand pivot b o l t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38 Nm
Swingarm right pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Swingarm right pivot bolt locknut (using special tool) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10 Nm
90 Nm
Swingarm left pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering stem nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering head bearing adjuster nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Top yoke fork clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
100 Nm
105 Nm
22 Nm
23 Nm
,
Recommended lubricants and fluids
Engine/transmission oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SE, SF or SG motor oil
Engine/transmission oil viscosity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SAE 10W40
Engine/transmission oil capacity
Oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Following engine overhaul - dry engine, new filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.6 litres
3.0 litres
Final drive oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SAE 80 Hypoid gear oil
Final drive oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Approx. 110 cc
Brake fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Coolant type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DOT 4
50% distilled water, 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze
Coolant capacity
After draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Total capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fork oil level*
J model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
K, M and P models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
S and T models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fork oil capacity
J model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6 litres
2.2 litres
182 mm
123 mm
106 mm
405 cc
K, M and P models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 cc
S and T models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 cc
Fork oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ATF
"Fork oil level is measured from the top of the tube, with the fork tube compressed and the spring removed.
Miscellaneous
Wheel bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear suspension bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering head bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cables, lever and stand pivot points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Throttle grip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Multi-purpose grease
Multi-purpose grease
Multi-purpose grease
Motor oil
Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant
Maintenance schedule 1-3
Note: Always perform the daily (pre-ride) checks at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are
the intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. Your owner's manual
may have different intervals for your model.
Daily (pre-ride) checks
H See 'Daily (pre-ride) checks' at the beginning of this
manual.
After the initial 600 miles (1000 km)
Note: This check is usually performed by a Honda dealer after the
first 600 miles (1000 km) from new. Thereafter, maintenance is
carried out according to the following intervals of the schedule. .
Every 4000 miles (6000 km)
or 6 months
Carry out all the items under the Daily (pre-ride) checks
G Clean the crankcase breather (Section 1)
D Check the spark plug gaps (Section 2).
Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 3).
Check the brake pads for wear (Section 4).
Check the operation of the clutch (Section 5).
Check the tyre and wheel condition, and the tyre
tread depth (Section 6).
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km)
or 12 months
Carry out all the items under the 4000 mile (6000 km) check,
plus the following:
G Check the fuel hoses and system components
(Section 7).
D Check throttle/choke cable operation and freeplay
(Section 8).
G Replace the spark plugs (Section 9).
G Check the valve clearances (Section 10).
D Change the engine oil and replace the oil filter
(Section 11).
D Check carburettor synchronisation (Section 12).
Q Check the cooling system (Section 13).
D Check the final drive oil level (Section 14).
n Check the operation of the brakes, and for fluid
leakage (Section 15).
Q Check the headlight aim (Section 16).
n Check the side stand (Section 17).
n Check the front and rear suspension (Section 18).
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km)
or 12 months (continued)
G Check the swingarm bearings (Section 19).
G Check the steering head bearing freeplay
(Section 20).
n Check the wheel bearings (Section 21).
G Lubricate the stand(s), lever pivots and cables
_ (Section 22).
G Check the tightness of all nuts and bolts
(Section 23).
Every 12 000 miles (18 000 km)
or 18 months
Carry out all the items under the 4000 mile (6000 km) check,
plus the following:
LJ Replace the air filter (Section 24).
L] Change the brake fluid (Section 25).
Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km)
or 2 years
Carry out all the items under the 8000 (12 000 km)
and the 12 000 mile (18 000 km) check, plus the following:
G Change the coolant (Section 26).
Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km)
or 3 years
Carry out all the items under the 8000 (12 000 km)
and the 12 000 mile (18 000 km) check, plus the following:
G Change the final drive oil (Section 27).
Non-scheduled maintenance
G
G
G
G
G
_
G
Change the front fork oil (Section 28).
Check the cylinder compression (Section 29).
Re-grease the steering head bearings (Section 30).
Re-grease the swingarm bearings (Section 31).
Replace the brake master cylinder and caliper
seals (Section 32).
Replace the brake hoses (Section 33).
i.4 Component locations
1
Rear brake fluid reservoir
2 Battery
3
Valves and spark plugs
1 Radiator pressure cap
2 Engine idle speed adjuster
3 Carburettors
4
Air filter
7 Fork seals
10 Swingarm pivot
5
6
Front brake fluid reservoir
Steering head bearings
8
9
11 Crankcase breather tube
12 Rear brake light switch
4 Coolant reservoir
5 Fuel filter
6 Brake calipers
Clutch cable lower adjuster
Engine oil filler/dipstick
7 Final drive oil filler/level plug
8 Final drive oil drain plug
9 Engine oil filter
10 Coolant drain plug
11 Engine oil drain plug
12 Rotor inspection cap
Introduction i.£
1 This Chapter is designed to help the
home mechanic maintain his/her motorcycle
for safety, economy, long life and peak
performance.
2 Deciding where to start or plug into the
routine maintenance schedule depends on
several factors. If the warranty period on
your motorcycle has just expired, and if it
has been maintained according to the
warranty standards, you may want to pick
up routine maintenance as it coincides with
the next mileage or calendar interval. If you
have owned the machine for some time but
have never performed any maintenance on
it, then you may want to start at the nearest
interval and include some additional
procedures to ensure that nothing important
is overlooked. If you have just had a major
engine overhaul, then you may want to start
the maintenance routine from the beginning.
If you have a used machine and have no
knowledge of its history or maintenance
record, you may desire to combine all the
checks into one large service initially and
then settle into the maintenance schedule
prescribed.
3 Before beginning any maintenance or
repair, the machine should be cleaned
thoroughly, especially around the oil filter,
spark plugs, valve cover, side panels,
carburettors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure
that dirt does not contaminate the engine and
will allow you to detect wear and damage that
could otherwise easily go unnoticed.
4 Certain maintenance information is
sometimes printed on decals attached to the
motorcycle. If the information on the decals
differs from that included here, use the
information on the decal.
Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months
1 Crankcase breather draining
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1 Remove the plug from the bottom of the
crankcase breather tube located behind the
side stand (see illustration). Allow the
deposits to drain into a suitable container,
then fit the plug back into the bottom of the
tube. Note: The crankcase breather should be
drained more often if the bike is ridden
frequently in the rain or at full throttle, or if the
bike is washed or has been dropped. Drain the
tube at any time when deposits are seen in the
clear part of the tubing.
2 Spark plug gaps check and adjustment
a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and
re-used (if no cracks or chips are visible in the
insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition
of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as
the expense is minimal.
8 Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is
permitted (though not recommended),
provided you clean the plugs with a high
flash-point solvent afterwards.
9 Before installing the plugs, make sure they
are the correct type and heat range and check
the gap between the electrodes (they are not
pre-set on new plugs). For best results, use a
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1 This motorcycle is equipped with two spark
plugs per cylinder. One plug is located on the
side of the engine, the other is located within
the valve cover (there is no need to remove
the valve cover to access the plug for
removal) (see illustrations). Make sure your
spark plug socket is the correct size before
attempting to remove the plugs - a suitable
one is supplied in the motorcycle's tool kit.
2 Remove the seat and disconnect the
battery negative (-ve) lead.
3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
4 Clean the area around the valve cover and
plug caps to prevent any dirt falling into the
spark plug channels.
5 Check that the cylinder location number is
marked on each plug lead, then pull the spark
plug caps off the spark plugs. Using a socket
type wrench, unscrew the plugs from the
cylinder head (see illustration). Lay the plugs
out in relation to their cylinder; if either plug
shows up a problem it will then be easy to
identify the troublesome cylinder.
6 Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the
centre and side electrodes should have
square edges and the side electrode should
be of uniform thickness. Look for excessive
deposits and evidence of a cracked or
chipped insulator around the centre electrode.
Compare your spark plugs to the colour spark
plug reading chart at the end of this manual.
Check the threads, the washer and the
ceramic insulator body for cracks and other
damage.
7 If the electrodes are not excessively worn,
and if the deposits can be easily removed with
1.1 Remove the plug and allow any
deposits to drain from the
crankcase breather
2.1 a Each cylinder has a spark plug on the
side of the engine . . .
2.1 b . . . and one within the valve cover
2.5 Remove the spark plugs using the tool
provided in the tool kit or a
deep plug socket
1.6 Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months
2.9a A wire type gauge is recommended
to measure the spark plug electrode gap
2.9b A blade type feeler gauge
can also be used
2.9c Adjust the electrode gap by bending
the side electrode
motorcycle on its centre stand, or hold it
upright, and make sure the transmission is in
neutral.
3 With the engine idling, adjust the idle speed
by turning the throttle stop screw in or out
2.10 Thread the plug in as far as possible
by hand
3.3 Idle speed adjusting screw
(throttle stop screw) (arrow)
wire-type gauge rather than a flat (feeler)
gauge to check the gap. Compare the gap to
that specified and adjust as necessary. If the
gap must be adjusted, bend the side
3 Idle speed - check and
adjustment
until the idle speed listed in this Chapter's
Specifications is obtained. The throttle stop
screw is located under the carburettors
behind the left-hand side frame spar (see
illustration).
4 Snap the throttle open and shut a few
times, then recheck the idle speed. If
necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.
5 If a smooth, steady idle can't be achieved,
the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to
Chapter 4
information.
for
additional
4 Brake pads - wear check
electrode only and be very careful not to chip
or crack the insulator nose (see illustrations).
Make sure the washer is in place before
installing each plug.
10 Since the cylinder head is made of
aluminium, which is soft and easily damaged,
thread the plugs into the heads by hand (see
illustration). Once the plugs are finger-tight,
the job can be finished with a socket. Tighten
the spark plugs to the specified torque listed
in this Chapter's Specifications; do not overtighten them.
11 Reconnect the spark plug caps, making
sure they are securely connected to the
correct cylinder.
12 Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
Since
the
plugs
carburettor
1 The idle speed should be checked and
adjusted before and after the carburettors are
synchronised and when it is obviously too high
or too low. Before adjusting the idle speed,
make sure the valve clearances and spark plug
gaps are correct. Also, turn the handlebars
back-and-forth and see if the idle speed
changes as this is done. If it does, the throttle
cable may not be adjusted correctly, or may be
worn out. This is a dangerous condition that
can cause loss of control of the bike. Be sure to
correct this problem before proceeding.
2 The engine should be at normal operating
temperature, which is usually reached after 10
to 15 minutes of stop and go riding. Place the
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1 The OE (original equipment) brake pads
have three wear indicator grooves (single
groove on the rear brake) that can be viewed
without removing the pads from the caliper.
The pad wear indicator grooves are visible by
looking up at the bottom of the pad (see
illustrations). If the pads are worn to or
beyond the base of the groove(s), they must
be replaced. If you are in any doubt about the
amount on pad material remaining, remove the
pads for thorough inspection (see Chapter 7).
2 Refer to Chapter 7 for details of pad
replacement.
are
recessed, slip a short length
of hose over the end of the
plug to use as a tool to
thread it into place. The hose will grip
the plug well enough to turn it, but will
start to slip if the plug begins to crossthread in the hole - this will prevent
damaged threads and the resultant
repair costs.
4.1 a Front brake pad wear indicator
grooves (arrows)
4.1 b Rear brake pad wear indicator
groove (arrow)
Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months
5.1 Measuring clutch lever freeplay
5 Clutch - check
5.2 Clutch cable (lever end) adjuster (A)
and lockring (B)
reduce freeplay, turn the adjuster anticlockwise. Tighten the locking ring securely.
3 To adjust cable freeplay at the clutch,
loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster nut
until the required amount of freeplay is
obtained (see illustration). To increase
freeplay, turn the adjuster nut anti-clockwise.
To reduce freeplay,.turn the adjuster nut
clockwise. Tighten the locknuts securely.
4 If all the adjustment has been taken up at
the lever, reset the adjuster to give the
maximum amount of freeplay, then set the
correct amount of freeplay using the adjuster
at the clutch end of the cable. Subsequent
adjustments can now be made using the lever
5.3 Clutch cable (clutch end) adjuster (A)
and locknut (B)
Wheels and tyres general check
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1 Periodic adjustment of the clutch cable is
necessary to compensate for wear of the
clutch plates and stretch in the cable. Check
that the amount of freeplay at the clutch lever
end is within the specifications listed at the
beginning of the Chapter (see illustration). If
adjustment is required, it can be made at
either the lever end of the cable or at the
clutch end.
2 To adjust cable freeplay at the lever, pull
back the rubber cover, then loosen the
locking ring and turn the adjuster in or out
until the required amount of freeplay is
adjuster only.
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Wheels
1 Cast wheels are virtually maintenance free,
but they should be kept clean and checked
periodically for cracks and other damage.
Also check the wheel runout and alignment
(see Chapter 7). Never attempt to repair
damaged cast wheels; they must be replaced
with new ones. Check the tyre valve rubber for
signs of damage or deterioration and have it
replaced if necessary. Also, make sure the
valve stem dust,cap is in place and tight.
Tyres
obtained (see illustration). To increase
2 Check the tyre condition and tread depth
freeplay, turn the adjuster clockwise. To
thoroughly - see Daily (pre-ride) checks.
Every 8000 miles (12 OOP km) or 12 months
7 Fuel system - checl
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don't
work in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance is present. If you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. When you perform any kind of
work on the fuel system, wear safety
glasses and have a fire extinguisher
suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable
liquids) on hand.
2 If the fuel tap is leaking, tightening its nut
and screws may help. If leakage persists,
remove the tap from the tank as described in
Chapter 4. Unscrew the screws and
disassemble the tap, noting how the
components fit. Inspect all components for
wear or damage, and replace the O-ring at the
tap and tank joint. If any of the components
are worn or damaged beyond repair a new tap
must be fitted as components are not
available individually.
3 If the carburettor gaskets are leaking, the
carburettors should be disassembled and
rebuilt using new gaskets and seals (see
Chapter 4).
Filter cleaning
4 Cleaning or replacement of the fuel filters is
advised after a particularly high mileage has
Check
been covered. It is also necessary if fuel
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and
check the tank, the tap, and the fuel hose for
signs of leakage, deterioration or damage; in
starvation is suspected.
5 The fuel tap incorporates a gauze type filter
inside the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tap (see
Chapter 4) and clean the filter, being careful
not to tear the gauze. If the gauze is damaged,
replace it with a new one.
particular check that there is no leakage from
the fuel hose. Replace any hoses which are
cracked or deteriorated.
6 The fuel hose incorporates an in-line filter
between the tank and the fuel pump; remove
the left-hand side panel for access (see
illustration). This is a sealed unit and cannot
be cleaned or serviced. If it is suspected of
being blocked, replace it with a new one. To
replace the filter, turn the fuel tap OFF, and
with a rag held under the filter to catch any
fuel spills, disconnect both pipes from the
filter. Work the filter out of its housing. Install
the new filter, noting that the arrow on its
7.6 In-line fuel filter is located in hose
from tap to fuel pump
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months
the OFF (fully forwards) position, measure the
distance from the choke plunger to the
retaining nut on both carburettors. It should
be between 10 to 11 mm. If not, back off the
locknut at the cable elbow under the
handlebar switch and rotate the elbow to
make cable adjustment - tighten the locknut
on completion.
10 Install the choke plungers in the
carburettors and secure them with their
retaining nuts. Slip the rubber covers back
into place. Install the fuel tank as described in
Chapter 4.
8.3 Throttle cable freeplay is measured in
terms of free twistgrip rotation (arrow)
8.4 Throttle cable adjuster (A)
and locknut (B)
body must point in the direction of fuel flow (ie
towards the fuel pump). Install the fuel pipes
and secure them with their clips. Turn the fuel
5 After adjustment check that the throttle
twistgrip operates smoothly and snaps shut
quickly when released.
6 With the engine idling, turn the handlebars
through the full extent of their travel. The idle
tap ON and check that there is no sign of fuel
leakage from the filter connections. Install the
side panel.
speed should not change. If it does, the cable
9 Spark plugs - replacement
See Section 2 'Spark plug gap check' under
the 4000 mile (6000 km) or 6 months heading
for details.
may be incorrectly routed.
8 Throttle and choke cables check
Caution: Correct this condition before
riding the bike (see Chapter 4).
Choke cable
7 If the choke does not operate smoothly this
is probably due to a cable fault. Remove the
Throttle cables
cable as described in Chapter 4 and lubricate
1 Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily
from fully closed to fully open with the front
wheel turned at various angles. The grip
should snap shut automatically when
released.
it. Install the cable, routing it so it takes the
smoothest route possible. If this fails to
improve the operation of the choke, the cable
must be replaced. Note that in very rare cases
the fault could lie in the carburettors rather
2 If the throttle sticks, this is probably due to
a cable fault. Remove the cables (see
Chapter 4) and lubricate them. Install the
than the cable, necessitating the removal of
the carburettors and inspection of the choke
valves (see Chapter 4).
8 There should be a very small amount of
freeplay at the choke lever when the choke is
in the OFF position; this ensures that the
choke is not in operation when the engine is
running normally. An adjuster elbow
immediately underneath the handlebar switch
enables adjustment of the cable.
9 To check the choke cable setting, remove
cables, making sure that they are correctly
routed. If this fails to improve the operation of
the throttle, the cables must be replaced.
Note that in very rare cases the fault could lie
in the carburettors rather than the cables,
necessitating the removal of the carburettors
and inspection of the throttle linkage (see
Chapter 4).
3 With the throttle operating smoothly, check
for a small amount of freeplay at the grip (see
illustration). The amount of freeplay in the
throttle cable, measured in terms of twistgrip
rotation, should be as given in this Chapter's
Specifications. If adjustment is necessary,
the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and trace the
choke cables (single cable from the handlebar
splits into two) to the carburettors. Peel back
the rubber cover and unscrew the retaining
nut to allow the plunger to be withdrawn from
each carburettor body. With the choke lever in
10 Valve clearances; check and adjustment
I
I
1 The engine must be completely cool for this
maintenance procedure, so let the machine sit
overnight before beginning.
2 Remove the fuel tank and the air filter
housing (see Chapter 4).
3 Pull out the three trim clips securing the
heat guard to the frame and remove the guard
(see illustration).
4 Remove the radiator and the thermostat
housing (not necessary if working the on rear
cylinder only).
5 Unscrew the crankshaft end cap and the
timing mark inspection cap from the left-hand
side crankcase cover (see illustration).
6 Remove the valve cover from each cylinder
(see Chapter 2). Unscrew the spark plugs to
allow the engine to be turned over easier.
7 The engine can be turned over by rotating
the crankshaft anti-clockwise using a suitable
socket on the flywheel bolt (see illustration).
Starting with the front cylinder, rotate the
engine until it is at TDC (Top Dead Centre) on
the compression stroke. At this point the "FT"
mark on the flywheel aligns with the notch in
adjust the idle speed first (see Section 3).
4 The accelerator (opening) cable is
adjustable at either the throttle end or the
carburettor end. Minor adjustments should be
made at the throttle end. To adjust the cable
freeplay, slacken the locknut on the cable
adjuster and rotate the adjuster until the
correct amount of freeplay is obtained, then
tighten the locknut against the adjuster (see
illustration). If all the adjustment has been
taken up at the throttle, re-set the adjuster to
give maximum freeplay and then set the
correct amount of freeplay by adjusting the
accelerator (opening) cable at the carburettor.
Subsequent adjustments can now be made at
the throttle.
10.3 The heat guard is secured
by three trim clips (arrows)
10.5 Crankshaft end cap (A) and timing
mark inspection cap (B)
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months 1.9
11 Engine oil and oil filterchange
Warning:
10.7a Use a socket on the flywheel bolt
behind the crankshaft end cap
to rotate the engine
10.7b Align the "FT" mark (A) with the
notch (B) in the inspection hole
Be
careful
^
|
|
when
draining the oil, as the exhaust
pipes, the engine, and the oil
itself can cause severe burns.
1 Consistent routine oil and filter changes are
the single most important maintenance
procedure you can perform on a motorcycle.
The oil not only lubricates the internal parts of
the engine, transmission and clutch, but it
also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant,
and a protectant. Because of these demands,
the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and
should be replaced often with new oil of the
recommended type and viscosity. Saving a
little money on the difference in cost between
a good oil and a cheap oil won't pay off if the
engine is damaged.
2 Before changing the oil, warm up the
engine so the oil will drain easily.
3 Put the bike on its side stand and place a
clean drain tray below the engine. Unscrew the
oil filler cap on the right-hand side crankcase
cover to vent the crankcase and to act as a
reminder that there is no oil in the engine.
4 Next, unscrew the oil drain plug from the
10.7c Check the valve clearance using a
10.8 Adjust the valve clearance by turning
feeler gauge
the adjuster (arrow) whilst counter-holding
the locknut
the timing mark inspection hole (see
illustration), and both camshaft lobes will be
pointing almost downwards (see illustration
8.25b in Chapter 2). Insert a feeler gauge of
the correct thickness (see Specifications)
between each rocker arm adjuster screw and
valve and check that it is a firm sliding fit (see
illustration).
8 if it is not, unscrew the locknut and rotate
the adjuster until a firm sliding fit is obtained,
then tighten the locknut to the torque setting
specified at the beginning of the Chapter,
making sure the adjuster does not rotate as
you do so (see illustration). Re-check the
clearances, not forgetting that there is a
difference between the inlet valve clearance
and the exhaust valve clearance.
9 Moving to the rear cylinder, rotate the
engine until it is at TDC (Top Dead Centre) on
11.4 Engine oil drain plug location (arrow)
11.5 Engine oil filter location
the compression stroke. At this point the "RT"
mark on the flywheel aligns with the notch in
the inspection hole, and both camshaft lobes
will be pointing almost downwards. Check
and adjust the valve clearance as described in
Steps 7 and 8 above.
10 Install all disturbed components in a
reverse of the removal sequence, referring to
the relevant Chapters where necessary. Apply
engine oil to the valve assemblies and
camshafts before installing the valve covers.
Apply a smear of molybdenum disulphide
grease to the threads of the crankshaft end
cap and the timing mark inspection cap and
tighten them to their specified torque settings.
left-hand side of the engine and let the oil flow
into the drain tray (see illustration). Discard
the drain plug sealing washer as it should be
replaced whenever the plug is removed.
5 Position the oil drain tray so that it is below
the oil filter (see illustration). Using an oil filter
removing tool (there are several types
commercially available at little cost), unscrew
the filter from the rear of the engine. Clean the
filter thread and housing on the crankcase
using clean rag. Wipe off any remaining oil
from the filter sealing area
6 When the oil has completely drained, fit a
new sealing washer over the drain plug. Fit the
plug to the crankcase and tighten it to the
torque setting specified at the beginning of
the Chapter. Avoid overtightening, as damage
to the threads will result.
7 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the
rubber sealing ring on the new filter, then
install the filter onto the engine (see
illustration). Using an oil filter wrench (if
11.7 Apply a smear of motor oil to the
sealing ring of the filter on installation
i.io Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months
available), tighten the filter to the specified
torque setting. If the wrench is not available,
tighten the filter firmly by hand. Do not
overtighten the filter as the seal will be
damaged and the filter will leak.
8 Refill the crankcase with oil to the proper
level (see Daily (pre-ride) checks) and install
the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for
two or three minutes (make sure that the oil
pressure light extinguishes after a few
seconds). Shut it off, wait a few minutes, then
check the oil level. If necessary, add more oil
Warning: Take great care not to
burn your hand on the hot
engine unit when accessing the
gauge take-off points on the
intake manifolds. Do not allow exhaust
gases to build up in the work area; either
perform the check outside or use an
exhaust gas extraction system.
1 Carburettor synchronisation is simply the
process of adjusting the carburettors so they
pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to
each cylinder. This is done by measuring the
vacuum produced in each cylinder.
to bring the level up to the upper mark on the
dipstick. Check around the drain plug and
filter for leaks.
Carburettors that are out of synchronisation
12.9 The vacuum take-off plug (arrow) is
will
located in the intake port of each cylinder
9 The old oil drained from the engine cannot
increased engine temperature, less than
be re-used and should be disposed of
ideal throttle response and higher vibration
properly. Check with your local refuse
disposal company, disposal facility or
environmental agency to see whether they will
accept the used oil for recycling. Don't pour
used oil into drains or onto the ground.
levels. Before synchronising the carburettors, make sure the valve clearances are
properly set.
2 To properly synchronise the carburettors,
Check the old oil carefully - if
I—,
i it is very metallic coloured,
[HlliiTj then
the
engine
is
experiencing
wear from
running-in (new engine) or from
insufficient lubrication. If there are
flakes or chips of metal in the oil, then
something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to be
disassembled for inspection and repair.
If there are pieces of fibre-like material
in the oil, the clutch is experiencing
excessive wear and should be checked.
result in decreased fuel
mileage,
you will need some sort of vacuum gauge setup, preferably with a gauge for each cylinder,
or a manometer, which is a calibrated tube
arrangement that utilises columns of mercury
or steel rods to indicate engine vacuum.
3 A manometer can be purchased from a
motorcycle dealer or accessory shop and
should have the necessary rubber hoses
supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum
take-off stubs.
4 A vacuum gauge set-up can also be
purchased from a dealer or mail-order
specialist or fabricated from commonly
available hardware and automotive vacuum
gauges.
?12 Carburettors!
synchronisation
5 The manometer is the more reliable and
accurate instrument, and for that reason is
preferred over the vacuum gauge set-up;
however, if using a mercury manometer, extra
precautions must be taken during use and
storage of the instrument as mercury is a
liquid, and extremely toxic.
6 Because
of
the
nature
of
the
synchronisation procedure and the need for
special instruments, most owners leave the
task to a Honda dealer.
7 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then shut it off.
8 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
9 Unscrew the vacuum take-off plug from the
intake port on each cylinder and install the
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable,
so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don't
work in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance is present. If you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. When you perform any kind of
work on the fuel system, wear safety
glasses and have a fire extinguisher
suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable
liquids) on hand.
12.14a Carburettor synchronisation screw
(arrow) {with air filter housing removed)
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
0800 66 33 66
bank, call this
number free.
vacuum take-off adapter in its place (see
illustration). If your vacuum gauge set or
manometer does not contain the correct size
adapters, they are available from a Honda
dealer (Pt. No. 16124-MBO-OOO).
10 Connect the gauge hoses to the take-off
adapters. Make sure there are no air leaks as
false readings will result.
11 Arrange a temporary fuel supply, either by
using a small temporary tank or by using extra
long fuel pipes to the now remote fuel tank.
Alternatively, position the tank on a suitable
base on the motorcycle, taking care not to
scratch any paintwork, and making sure that
the tank is safely and securely supported.
12 Start the engine and make sure the idle
speed is as specified at the beginning of the
Chapter. If it isn't, adjust it (see Section 3). If
the gauges are fitted with damping
adjustment, set this so that the needle flutter
is just eliminated but so that they can still
respond to small changes in pressure.
13 The vacuum readings for both of the
cylinders should be the same, or at least
within the tolerance listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. If the vacuum readings vary,
proceed as follows.
14 The carburettors are adjusted by turning
the synchronising screw situated in-between
the carburettors, in the throttle linkage (see
illustration). The screw is accessed using a
long screwdriver inserted through the hole in
the air cleaner housing (see illustration). Turn
the screw until the reading on each gauge is
the same. Note: Do not press down on the
screw whilst adjusting it, otherwise a false
12.14b Adjust the synchronisation screw
through the hole in the air filter housing
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months 1-11
14.2a Unscrew the oil filler cap from the
final drive housing . . .
14.2b . . . and check that the oil (1) is up to
the edge of the filler hole (2)
the
fins over more than 30% of the radiator's
carburettors are synchronised, open and
close the throttle quickly to settle the linkage,
and recheck the gauge readings, readjusting if
necessary.
15 When the adjustment is complete,
recheck the vacuum readings, then stop the
engine. Remove the vacuum gauge or
manometer and install the blanking plugs,
complete with their sealing washers.
16 Detach the temporary fuel supply and
install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
surface area, replace the radiator.
6 Remove the fuel tank to access the radiator
pressure cap (see Chapter 4). Remove the
pressure cap from the filler neck by turning it
anti-clockwise until it reaches a stop (see
illustration). If you hear a hissing sound
(indicating there is still pressure in the
system), wait until it stops. Now press down
on the cap and continue turning the cap until
it can be removed. Check the condition of the
coolant in the system. If it is rust-coloured or if
accumulations of scale are visible, drain, flush
and refill the system with new coolant (See
Section 26). Check the cap seal for cracks
and other damage. If in doubt about the
pressure cap's condition, have it tested by a
auxiliary stand, making sure it is on level
ground.
2 The check should be made after the
13.6 Observe caution when releasing the
radiator pressure cap
reading
will
be
obtained.
When
13 Cooling system - check
I
I
Warning: The engine must be
cool before
procedure.
beginning
this
1 Check the coolant level (see Daily (pre-ride)
checks).
2 The entire cooling system should be
checked for evidence of leakage. Examine
each rubber coolant hose along its entire
length. Look for cracks, abrasions and other
damage. Squeeze each hose at various
points. They should feel firm, yet pliable, and
return to their original shape when released. If
they are dried out or hard, replace them with
new ones.
3 Check for evidence of leaks at each cooling
system joint. Tighten the hose clips carefully
to prevent future leaks.
4 Check the radiator for leaks and other
damage. Leaks in the radiator leave telltale
scale deposits or coolant stains on the
outside of the core below the leak. If leaks are
noted, remove the radiator (see Chapter 3)
and have it repaired professionally or replace
it with a new one.
Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping
compound to try to repair leaks.
5 Check the radiator fins for mud, dirt and
insects, which may impede the flow of air
through the radiator. If the fins are dirty, clean
them using water or low pressure
compressed air directed through the fins from
the rear side. If the fins are bent or distorted,
straighten them carefully with a screwdriver. If
the air flow is restricted by bent or damaged
Honda dealer or replace it with a new one.
Install the cap by turning it clockwise until it
reaches the first stop, then push down on the
cap and continue turning until it can turn no
further. Install the fuel tank.
7 Check the antifreeze content of the coolant
with an antifreeze hydrometer. Sometimes
coolant looks like it's in good condition, but
might be too weak to offer adequate
protection. If the hydrometer indicates a weak
mixture, drain, flush and refill the system (see
Section 26).
8 Start the engine and let it reach normal
operating temperature, then check for leaks
again. As the coolant temperature increases,
the fan should come on automatically and the
temperature should begin to drop. If it does
not, refer to Chapter 3 and check the fan and
fan circuit carefully.
9 If the coolant level is consistently low, and
no evidence of leaks can be found, have the
entire system pressure checked by a Honda
dealer.
10 Periodically, check the drainage hole on
the underside of the water pump cover (see
Chapter 3). Leakage from this hole indicates
failure of the pump's mechanical seal.
14 Final drive oil level - check
machine has been standing for a few hours.
Unscrew the oil filler cap and check that the
oil is up to the edge of the filler hole (see
illustrations). If the level is below this, look for
signs of leakage, such as oil staining on the
underside of the casing. If leakage is evident,
the problem must be rectified to avoid the
possibility of damage to the final drive and oil
contaminating the rear tyre (see Chapter 6).
3 Replenish the oil if necessary to the correct
level using the type specified at the beginning
of the Chapter, then install the filler cap, using
a new O-ring smeared with clean oil, and
tighten it to the, torque setting specified at the
beginning of the Chapter.
15 Brake system - check
1 A routine general check of the brake system
will ensure that any problems are discovered
and remedied before the rider's safety is
jeopardised.
2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose
connections, excessive play, bends, and
other damage. Replace any damaged parts
with new ones (see Chapter 7).
3 Make sure air brake fasteners are tight.
Check the brake pads for wear and make sure
the fluid level in the reservoirs is correct (see
Daily (pre-ride) checks). Look for leaks at the
hose connections and check for cracks in the
hoses. If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed
the brakes (see Chapter 7).
4 Make sure the brake light operates when
the front brake lever is depressed. The front
brake light switch is not adjustable. If it fails to
operate properly, check it (see Chapter 9).
5 Make sure the brake light is activated just
before the rear brake pedal takes effect. If
adjustment is necessary, hold the switch and
turn the adjusting nut on the switch body until
the brake light is activated when required (see
illustration). If the switch doesn't operate the
brake lights, check it (see Chapter 9).
6 Check the position of the brake pedal tip in
relation to the top of the footrest. Honda do
1
I
1 Place the motorcycle on its centre stand, or
support it in an upright position using an
1
I
1.12 Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months
15.5 Rear brake light adjusting nut (arrow)
- viewed from inside
15.6 Slacken the locknut (A) and adjust
the pedal height using the nut (B)
on the pushrod
16.2 Headlight horizontal adjustment
screw (arrow)
16.3 Slacken the headlight mounting bolts
(arrow) for vertical adjustment
17.4a Side stand pivot bolt (A) and side
stand switch bolts (B)
17.4b Side stand switch plunger (arrow)
not supply an actual setting for the brake
pedal height, but it can be adjusted to suit
rider preference. Adjustment is made by
slackening the locknut on the master cylinder
pushrod, then turning the pushrod until the
pedal is at the correct height (see
illustration). Tighten the locknut securely.
Always check and if necessary adjust the rear
brake light switch after adjusting the pedal
height (see Step 5). Note: A setting is given for
master cylinder pushrod length in Chapter 7
and it is advised that you do not deviate too
far from this setting when making
, adjustments.
usually ridden with a passenger on the back,
as the side stand is extended. If the side stand
switch does not operate as described, check
16 Headlight aim check and adjustment
have a second assistant to do this.
2 Horizontal adjustment is made by turning
the adjuster screw in the headlight rim (see
illustration). Turn it clockwise to move the
beam to the left, and anti-clockwise to move it
to the right.
3 Vertical adjustment is made by slackening
the headlight mounting bolts and tilting the
unit up or down as required (see illustration).
Tighten the bolts securely after the
adjustment has been made.
17 Side stand - check
§^
I
1 The side stand return spring must be
Icapable
of retracting the stand fully and
Note: An improperly adjusted headlight may
cause problems for oncoming traffic or
provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road
ahead. Before adjusting the headlight aim, be
sure to consult with local traffic laws and
regulations and refer to MOT Test Checks in
the Reference section of this Manual.
1 The headlight beam can adjusted both
horizontally and vertically. Before making any
adjustment, check that the tyre pressures are
correct and the suspension is adjusted as
required. Make any adjustments to the
headlight aim with the machine on level
ground, with the fuel tank half full and with an
assistant sitting on the seat. If the bike is
holding the stand retracted when the
motorcycle is in use. If the spring is sagged or
broken it must be replaced.
2 Lubricate the side stand pivot regularly (see
Section 22). Make sure the pivot bolt is
tightened to the torque setting specified at the
beginning of the Chapter (see illustration
17.4a).
3 The side stand switch prevents the engine
being started if the stand is extended and the
motorcycle is in gear. Check its operation by
shifting the transmission into neutral,
retracting the stand and starting the engine.
Pull in the clutch lever and select a gear.
Extend the side stand. The engine should stop
its circuit (see Chapter 9).
4 Check that the switch mounting bolts are
secure and that the switch plunger moves
freely in and out of the switch (see
illustrations).
18 Suspension - check
1 The suspension components must be
maintained in top operating condition to
ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged
suspension parts decrease the motorcycle's
stability and control.
Front suspension
2 While standing alongside the motorcycle,
apply the front brake and push on the
handlebars to compress the forks several
times. See if they move up-and-down
smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the
forks should be disassembled and inspected
(see Chapter 6).
3 Inspect the area above the dust seal for
signs of oil leakage, then carefully lever off the
dust seal using a flat-bladed screwdriver and
inspect the area around the fork seal (see
illustrations). If leakage is evident, the seals
must be replaced (see Chapter 6).
4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts
and bolts to be sure none have worked loose.
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months
1-13
5 If any freeplay still exists or if the swingarm
does not move freely, the bearings must be
removed for inspection or replacement (see
Chapter 6).
20 Steering head bearings freeplay check and adjustment
1 This motorcycle is equipped with cagedball type steering head bearings. Head
18.3b ... and inspect the area above the
oil seal for signs of oil leakage
18.3a Lever off the dust seal . . .
Rear suspension
service tool (Pt. No. 07908-ME90000) which is
5 Inspect the rear shock for fluid leakage and
a special wrench that fits the locknut slots
(see illustration). There is no alternative to
tightness of its mountings. If leakage is found,
the shock should be replaced.
6 With the aid of an assistant to support the
bike, compress the rear suspension several
times. It should move up and down freely
» without binding. If binding is felt, the shock
absorber should be removed and examined
further. Also check the swingarm bearings
(see Section 1 9).
7 Position the motorcycle on its centre stand
or on an auxiliary stand so that the rear wheel
is off the ground. Grab the swingarm and rock
it from side to side - there should be no
discernible movement at the rear. If there's a
little movement or a slight clicking can be
heard, make a further check of the swingarm
bearings (see Section 19).
8 Inspect the tightness of the rear suspension
mounting bolts and nuts.
19 Swingarm bearings - check
the use of this tool; if you do not have access
to it, the swingarm pivot locknut must be
unscrewed and later tightened by a Honda
dealer. Check that the pivot bolt is tightened
to the torque setting specified at the
beginning of the Chapter, and adjust if
necessary. Install the locknut and tighten it to
the specified torque setting using a torque
wrench applied to the socket in the arm of the
special tool (see illustration). Note: The
specified torque setting takes into account the
extra leverage provided by the service tool
bearings can become dented, rough or loose
during normal use of the machine, and in
extreme cases, worn or loose steering head
bearings can cause steering wobble - a
condition that is potentially dangerous.
Check
2 Place the motorcycle on its centre stand, or
support it using an agxiliary stand. Raise the
front wheel off the ground either by having an
assistant push down on the rear or by placing
a support under the engine.
3 Point the front wheel straight-ahead and
slowly move the handlebars from side-toside. Any dents or roughness in the bearing
races will be felt and the bars will not move
smoothly and freely.
and cannot be duplicated without it. Counterhold the pivot bolt to stop it from turning
whilst tightening the locknut.
4 Also check that the left-hand side pivot bolt
is tightened to the correct torque setting.
Install the dust caps in the frame.
4 Next, grasp the fork sliders and try to move
them forward and backward (see illustration).
Any looseness iii the steering head bearings
will be felt as front-to-rear movement of the
forks. If play is felt in the bearings, adjust the
19.3a Swingarm pivot bolt (A) and locknut
(B) on right-hand side
19.3b This Honda special tool is essential
for adjusting the swingarm bearings
19.3c Tighten the locknut using the
special tool whilst counter-holding the
pivot bolt
20.4 Checking for looseness in the
steering head bearings
steering head as follows (see Haynes Hint).
%
1 To make an accurate assessment of the
swingarm bearings, remove the rear wheel
(see Chapter 7) and the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see Chapter 6). Swing the
shock absorber backwards to provide
clearance for the swingarm to be moved.
2 Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one
hand and place your other hand at the
junction of the swingarm and the frame. Try to
move the rear of the swingarm from side-toside. Any wear (play) in the bearings should be
felt as movement between the swingarm and
the frame at the front. If there is any play the
swingarm will be felt to move forward and
backward at the front (not from side-to-side).
Next, move the swingarm up and down
through its full travel, it should move freely,
without any binding or rough spots.
3 If any play in the swingarm is noted, check
that the bearings are loaded to the correct
torque setting. Prise off the dust cover from
the right-hand side of the swingarm pivot,
then counter-hold the pivot bolt on the righthand side and slacken the locknut (see
illustration). This requires the use of a Honda
1*14
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months
the steering is able to move freely (see
illustration). Note that Honda specify a
torque setting for the adjuster nut - if this is
applied, check afterwards that the steering is
still able to move freely from side to side. The
object is to set the adjuster nut so that the
bearings are under a very light loading, just
enough to remove any freeplay.
Caution: Take great care not to apply
excessive pressure because this will cause
premature failure of the bearings.
10 If the bearings cannot be set up properly,
20.7a Remove the steering stem nut
and washer
20.7b Slacken the fork clamp bolts
(arrows), then lift off the top yoke
or if there is any binding, roughness or
notchiness, they will have to be removed for
inspection or replacement (see Chapter 5).
11 With the bearings correctly adjusted,
install the lockwasher, and bend down two of
its opposite tabs to secure the adjuster nut.
Install the locknut, and tighten it finger-tight as
far as possible, then tighten it further (to a
maximum of 90°) until its slots align with the
remaining tabs on the lock washer. Counterhold the adjuster nut whilst doing this to
prevent it from moving. Bend up the two
remaining tabs to secure the locknut.
12 Fit the top yoke to the steering stem,
making sure the rubbers are in place on the
top prongs of the headlight frame and that
20.8 Steering head bearing lockwasher
20.9 Adjust the head bearing adjuster nut
tab (A), locknut (B) and adjuster nut (C)
using a C-spanner
Freeplay in the fork due to
I worn fork bushes can be
HillvTI misinterpreted for steering
head bearing play - do not
confuse the two.
t
Adjustment
5 On J, K and M models, unscrew the fuse
box cover retaining screws and remove the
cover, then remove the screws securing the
fuse box to the top yoke and move the fuse
box aside, leaving its wiring connected and
noting its routing.
6 On P, S and T models, unscrew the bolts
securing the instrument cluster to the top
yoke and move the cluster aside to allow the
top yoke to be moved (see Chapter 9 if
necessary) - there is no need to disconnect
the instrument cluster wiring or speedometer
cable. Also displace the handlebars (see
20.12a Headlight frame prongs fit in holes
in the underside of the top yoke (arrow)
Chapter 5) to gain access to the steering
stem nut.
7 Unscrew and remove the steering stem nut
and washer, then slacken the fork clamp bolts
they fit into the holes in the underside of the
top yoke (see illustration). Install the steering
stem washer and nut, tightening it and both
fork clamp bolts to their specified torques (see
illustrations). On P, S and T models install the
handlebars (Chapter 5) and instrument cluster
(Chapter 9) onto the top yoke
in the top yoke and lift the top yoke off the
steering stem (see illustrations). Support the
headlight as the top yoke is removed, and
note how the prongs and their rubbers on the
top of the headlight bracket frame fit into the
holes in the underside of the yoke. Support
the assembly carefully whilst adjusting the
head bearings.
8 Bend back the tabs of the steering stem
lockwasher to release it from the locknut, then
unscrew and remove the locknut using a
suitable C-spanner (see illustration). Remove
the lockwasher and discard it as a new one
must be used.
9 Slacken the adjuster nut slightly (using the
C-spanner) until pressure is just released,
then tighten it until all freeplay is removed, yet
pulling the wheel against the hub. Also rotate
the wheel and check that it rotates smoothly.
2 If any play is found in the hub, or the wheel
does not rotate smoothly (and this is not due
to brake drag), the wheel bearings must be
inspected for wear or damage (see Chapter 7).
20.12b Install the steering stem
20.12c ... and tighten the nut to the
washer . ..
specified torque setting
13 Check the bearing adjustment as
described above and re-adjust if necessary.
21 Wheel bearings - check
1
I
1 Place the motorcycle on its centre stand, or
support it using an auxiliary stand, and check
for any play in the bearings by pushing and
Every 8000 miles (12 000 km) or 12 months 1-15
the upper few inches of the cable as the
lubricant may travel up into the speedometer
22 Stand(s), lever pivots and
cables - lubrication
head.
23 Nuts and bolts tightness check
1 Since the controls, cables and various other
components of a motorcycle are exposed to
the elements, they should be lubricated
periodically to ensure safe and trouble-free
1 Since vibration of the machine tends to
operation.
2 The footrests, clutch and brake levers,
brake pedal, gearshift lever linkage and stand
pivot(s) should be lubricated frequently. In
order for the lubricant to be applied where it
will do the most good, the component should
be disassembled. However, if chain and cable
loosen fasteners, all nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
should be periodically checked for proper
22.3 Lubricating a cable with a pressure
lubricator. Make sure the tool seals around
the inner cable
Spark plugs
Engine oil drain plug
Gearshift pedal bolt
lubricant is being used, it can be applied to
the pivot joint gaps and will usually work its
way into the areas where friction occurs. If
3 To lubricate the cables, disconnect the
relevant cable at its upper end, then lubricate
the cable with a pressure adapter (see
motor oil or light grease is being used, apply it
sparingly as it may attract dirt (which could
illustration). See Chapter 4 for the choke and
cause the controls to bind or wear at an
i, accelerated rate). Note: One of the best
lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dryfilm lubricant (available from many sources by
different names).
tightness.
2 Pay particular attention to the following:
throttle cable removal procedures and Chapter
2 for the clutch cable removal procedure.
4 The speedometer cable should be removed
(see Chapter 9) and the inner cable withdrawn
from the outer cable and lubricated with
motor oil or cable lubricant. Do not lubricate
Footrest and stand bolts
Engine mounting bolts
Shock absorber mounting bolts
Handlebar and yoke bolts
Front axle and clamp bolts
Rear axle bolt
Exhaust system bolts/nuts
3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along
with the torque specifications at the beginning
of this, or other, Chapters.
Every 12 000 miles (18 000 km) or 18 months
24 Air filter - replacement
6 Remove the air filter housing (see Chapter 4).
7 Remove the two screws securing the subair filter element cover to the base of the air
I
filter housing and remove the cover and the
>?\
I
element (see illustrations).
8 Wash the element in non-flammable
solvent, then squeeze it out and leave it to
dry. Soak the element in SAE 80 or 90 gear oil,
then squeeze out the excess.
9 Install the element into its housing, then
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
2 Remove the screws securing the air filter
housing cover and remove the cover (see
illustration).
3 Remove the old air filter element and install
a new one, making sure it is correctly seated
(see illustration).
4 Install the air filter housing cover and
tighten its screws securely (see illustration).
5 Although it is not a scheduled service item,
when replacing the air filter element it is
advisable to also clean the sub-air filter
element, as follows. The sub-air filter
connects via hoses to the carburettor breather
passages.
24.2 The air filter housing cover is secured
by eight screws (arrows)
24.3 Installing the new air filter element
24.4 Secure the air filter housing cover
with the eight screws
24.7a Unscrew the two sub-air filter
element housing screws (arrows)...
24.7b . . . and remove the element
Every 12 000 miles (18 000 km) or 18 months
install the cover and tighten its screws
securely (see illustration).
10 Install the air filter housing (refer to
Chapter 4).
cylinder or caliper overhaul is carried out.
11 Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
with new fluid.
25 Brake fluid - change
Refer to the brake bleeding section in
Chapter 7, noting that all old fluid must be
pumped from the fluid reservoir before filling
Old brake fluid is invariably
much darker in colour than
HilMT new fluid, making it easy t o ..;
see when all old fluid has-i
;
been exp elled from the system.
|
IJ£^13;j
24.9 Install the cover over the element
1 The brake fluid should be replaced at the
prescribed interval or whenever a master
Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km) or 2 years
system until it is clear and flows cleanly out of
26 Cooling system - draining,
flushing and refilling
Warning: Allow the engine to
cool
completely
before
performing this maintenance
operation. Also, don't allow
antifreeze to come into contact with your
skin or the painted surfaces of the
motorcycle. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly
toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell and may drink
it. Check with local authorities (councils)
about disposing of antifreeze. Many
communities have collection centres which
will see that antifreeze is disposed of
safely. Antifreeze is also combustible, so
don't store it near open flames.
Draining
1 Remove the fuel tank to access the
pressure cap (see Chapter 4). Remove the
pressure cap by turning it anti-clockwise until
it reaches a stop (see illustration 13.6). If you
hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still
pressure in the system), wait until it stops.
Now press down on the cap and continue
turning the cap until it can be removed.
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
water pump, then remove the drain bolt and
its sealing washer from the pump cover (see
illustration). Discard the washer as a new one
must be used.
3 Drain the coolant reservoir. Refer to
Chapter 3 for the reservoir removal procedure.
Wash out the reservoir with fresh water.
the drain hole. If the radiator is extremely
corroded, remove it by referring to Chapter 3
and have it cleaned by a professional.
5 Clean the drain hole then install the drain
bolt with its sealing washer.
6 Fill the cooling system with clean water
mixed with a flushing compound. Make sure
the flushing compound is compatible with
aluminium components, and follow the
manufacturer's instructions carefully.
7 Start the engine and allow it reach normal
operating temperature. Let it run for about ten
minutes.
8 Stop the engine. Let it cool for a while, then
cover the pressure cap with a heavy rag and
turn it anti-clockwise to the first stop,
releasing any pressure that may be present in
the system. Once the hissing stops, push
down on the cap and remove it completely.
9 Drain the system once again, taking care to
avoid scalding your hands.
10 Fill the system with clean water and
repeat the procedure in Steps 7 through 9.
(see illustration). Note: Pour the coolant in
slowly to minimise the amount of air entering
the system.
13 When the system is full (all the way up to
the top of the radiator filler neck), install the
pressure cap. Also top up the coolant
reservoir to the UPPER level mark (see Daily
(pre-ride) checks).
14 Start the engine and allow it to idle for 2 to
3 minutes. Flick the throttle twistgrip part
open 3 or 4 times, so that the engine speed
rises to approximately 4000 - 5000 rpm, then
stop the engine. This process will bleed any
air from the system.
15 Let the engine cool then remove the
pressure cap as described in Step 1. Check
that the coolant level is still up to the radiator
filler neck. If it's low, add the specified mixture
until it reaches the top of the filler neck.
Reinstall the cap. Install the fuel tank (see
Chapter 4).
16 Check the coolant level in the reservoir
and top up if necessary.
17 Check the system for leaks.
11 Fit a new sealing washer to the drain bolt
and tighten it securely.
12 Fill the system with the proper coolant
mixture (refer to this Chapter's Specifications)
18 Do not dispose of the old coolant by
pouring it down the drain. Instead pour it into
a heavy plastic container, cap it tightly and
take it to an authorised disposal site or service
station - see Warning at the beginning of this
Section.
26.2 Coolant drain bolt - J, K and M
models (A), P, S and T models (B)
26.12 Fill the cooling system
via the filler neck
Refilling
Flushing
4 Flush the system with clean tap water by
inserting a garden hose in the radiator filler
neck. Allow the water to run through the
_______Every 24 OOP miles (36 OOP km) or 3 years 1-17
Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km) or 3 years
27 Final drive oil - change
1 Place the motorcycle on its centre stand, or
support it using an auxiliary stand, making
sure it is on level ground.
2 Place an oil drain pan under the drain bolt in
the final drive housing. Unscrew the filler cap
27.2 Final drive oil drain bolt
(see illustration 14.2a) and the drain bolt,
and allow the oil to drain into the pan (see
illustration).
Caution: Make sure that no oil contacts the
rear tyre - raise the drain tray or make up a
cardboard chute to prevent this.
3 Check the condition of the drain bolt
sealing washer and replace it if necessary (it is
advisable to replace it as a matter of course).
Install the drain bolt and tighten it to the
torque setting specified at the beginning of
the Chapter. Fill the housing using the amount
and type of oil specified at the beginning of
the Chapter (also marked on the housing
itself) (see illustration). The oil should come
up to the edge of the filler hole (see
illustration 14.2b).
4 Install the filler cap, using a new O-ring
smeared with clean oil, and tighten it to the
specified torque setting (see illustration).
27.3 Fill the final drive housing with the
correct quantity and grade of oil
27.4 Install the filler cap
using a new O-ring
Non-scheduled maintenance
28 Front fork oil - change
1 Although not specified as part of the
maintenance schedule, fork oil will degrade
over a period of time and lose its damping
qualities. It can be changed without removing
the forks from the yokes.
2 Remove the handlebars from the top yoke,
but leave the levers and switch housings
intact (see Chapter 6). Although movement of
the handlebars is restricted by the wiring,
cables and brake hose, they can be displaced
sufficiently to gain access to the fork top
bolts. On J, K and M models support the right
handlebar, and on P, S and T models the
whole handlebar assembly, so the brake
master cylinder is upright and no strain is
placed on the hose
3 Slacken the fork clamp bolts in the top
yokes (see illustration 20.7b), then remove
the fork top bolt cover and unscrew the top
bolt.
Warning: The fork spring is
pressing on the fork top bolt
with considerable pressure.
Unscrew the bolt very carefully,
keeping a downward pressure on it and
release it slowly as it is likely to spring
clear. It is advisable to wear some form of
eye and face protection when carrying out
this operation.
4 Remove the spacer and spring seat from
the top of the spring, then remove the spring
from the fork tube, noting which way up it fits.
Slackening the fork pinch
bolts in the top yoke releases
pressure on the fork top bolt.
This makes it much easier to
remove and helps to preserve the
threads.
HINT
5 Place a drain pan under the fork leg, then
unscrew the drain screw on the back of the
leg and drain the oil into the pan.
6 Pump the forks up and down several times
to expel all the old oil, then install the drain
screw, using a new sealing washer if the old
one shows any signs of damage or
deterioration. Tighten the screw securely.
7 Fully compress the fork, and pour in the oil
using the amount and type specified at the
beginning of the Chapter. Slowly pump the
forks up and down a few times to fully
distribute the oil. The oil level should also be
measured and adjustment made by adding or
subtracting oil. Fully compress the fork tubes
into the sliders and measure the fork oil level
from the top of each tube. Add or subtract
fork oil until the oil is at the level specified in
the Specifications Section of this Chapter.
Note: It is important that the level in each fork
tube is identical.
8 Install the spring, with its closer-wound
coils at the bottom, followed by the spring
seat, with its shoulder inserted into the spring,
and the spacer.
9 Inspect the O-ring on the fork top bolt and
replace it if it shows any signs of damage or
deterioration. Install the top bolt carefully
into the fork tube, making sure it is not
cross-threaded, and tighten it to the torque
setting specified at the beginning of the
Chapter.
Warning: It will be necessary to
compress the spring by pressing
it down using the top bolt to
engage the threads of the top
bolt with the fork tube. This is a potentially
dangerous operation and should be
performed with care, using an assistant if
necessary. Wipe off any excess oil before
starting to prevent the possibility of
slipping.
Use a ratchet-type tool when
installing the fork top bolt.
This makes it unnecessary to
remove the tool from the bolt
whilst threading it in making it easier to
maintain a downward pressure on the
spring.
10 Install the top bolt cap, and tighten the
fork clamp bolts to the torque setting
specified at the beginning of the Chapter.
11 Install the handlebars onto the top yoke
(see Chapter 6).
i-i8 Non-scheduled maintenance
2 Disassemble the steering head for regreasing of the bearings. Refer to Chapter 6
for details.
29 "Cylinder compression -
check
2 Refer to Chapter 7 and dismantle the
components for seal replacement.
33 Brake hoses - replacement
1 A compression test will provide useful
information about an engine's condition and if
performed regularly, can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2 Refer to the procedure under the Fault
Finding Equipment heading in the Reference
section of this Manual. The cylinder
compression figure is given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.
30 Steering head bearings T re-greasing
1 Over a period of time the grease will harden
or dirt will penetrate the bearing due to failed
dust seals.
2 The swingarm is not equipped with grease
nipples. Remove the swingarm as described
in Chapter 6 for greasing of the bearings.
32 Brake caliper and master
cylinder - seal replacement
I
I
1 Over a period of time the grease will harden
or may be washed out of the bearings by
incorrect use of jet washes.
§j>
31 Swingarm bearings re-greasing
1 Brake piston fluid and dust seals will
deteriorate with age and must be replaced
with new ones.
1 The flexible brake hoses will in time
deteriorate with age and must be replaced
with new ones.
2 Refer to Chapter 7 and disconnect the
brake hoses from the master cylinders and
calipers. The hoses should be replaced
regardless of their condition. Always replace
the banjo union sealing washers with new
ones.
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