Edge Sinks Installation Guide

Edge Sinks Installation Guide
VERSION 1/609
INSTALLATION GUIDE
In this guide we will demonstrate effective techniques and methods for installing EDGE stainless steel sinks seamlessly in both laminate and solid surface. These techniques are in most cases identical to the installation of a Karran
acrylic sink in laminate and solid surface. Variations do occur in the final trim stages and we will review these differences and alternative methods in detail.
Regarding installing Edge sinks in postform laminate countertops, we only review the installation in a custom/square
edge countertop here. For a postform installation of Edge sinks, please request a copy of the Karran Undermount to
Laminate Installation Guide. Follow the procedures outlined therein until the final laminate trim process, then revert to
the instructions shown here on pages 6-8.
SECTION 1: Installing EDGE Sinks in Laminate Countertops
After removing the sink from its box, inspect it for damage.
Check the integrity of the rim as well as the bowls for any signs
of shipping damage. If sink is damaged, call your distributor or
Karran USA immediately.
Measure and mark the back side of the countertop indicating
where the sink needs to be installed. A set back from the front
edge of 2” to 2-1/2” is recommended but always take into consideration the specific circumstances of each installation relating to cabinet and plumbing placement.
Place the sink upside down on the substrate in the marked
position, then use a pencil to trace the outline of the sink onto
the substrate. Hold your pencil vertically as this will offset your
cutout line by the required 1/8”.
2
Using a jig saw make the cutout. When doing more than one
sink of the same design, save time by making a wood template
and using a router. Remember to reduce the size of the template by the thickness of the router bit to be used.
If you have a CNC machine, please go to our website at
www.lansensinks.com to download DXF files.
Place the laminate that has been cut to size (oversized by your
shops standard amount) over the substrate. Trace the sink
cutout in the substrate onto the back of the laminate.
Flip the countertop over. Place sink in cutout to check for fit.
Approximately 1/8” gap should be visible. Either screw or glue
& staple wood support strips to the underside of the opening.
Make sure they overlap the edge of the cutout by about 1/2”
Flip the countertop and sink over. The sink rim must sit minimally higher than the top of the substrate. We recommend no
more than 1/32”. Adjust height as needed using either strips of
laminate or screws. Regarding screws, simply position several
screws around circumference of sink, screwed through the
wood support strips until they touch the underside of rim.
Then adjust screws to raise or lower rim height. Remember to
make sure the sink remains centered in the hole.
3
Mix up Bondo or similar body filler product. Smear Bondo into
the gap around the sink. Fill the gap between sink rim and
substrate completely. Leave to harden for about 10 minutes.
Once hard, use a belt sander with a coarse grit sandpaper to
sand the rim of the sink and the Bondo. Make sure to keep the
sander level so as not to sand the substrate or sink rim unevenly. Marking pencil lines on the rim and substrate is a useful
guide to show high spots. Sand until lines have been removed.
Check for level (low or high spots) after sanding is complete.
Make sure inside stainless steel wall of sink is not raised.
Ensuring a flat and level substrate and sink is important for a
quality installation.
Place your sink cutout over the marked area on the back of
laminate. This is done to protect this area of the laminate
where the sink rim will bond from contact adhesive.
Spray back of laminate with contact adhesive.
4
Lay the sink cutout over the sink and spray contact adhesive
over the substrate.
Clean the rim of the sink with denatured alcohol and a clean
rag. Also clean the back of the laminate where the sink will
attach with denatured alcohol.
Prepare Lansen Seaming Adhesive. Remember to purge tube
to ensure adhesive is mixing with catalyst. Apply a continuous
bead about 1/8” back from the inner front edge of the sink.
Bead should be between 1/4” and 3/8” wide. Be cautious not to
exceed recommended amount.
Using Lansen Seaming Adhesive ensures the seam bond is
warranted for 3 years from date of install.
Adhere laminate to the substrate.
5
Roll laminate with a j-roller. Roll gently on rim of sink
Place one or two sheets of particleboard over the sink area to
provide even pressure while seam adhesive cures for approximately 30 minutes. The countertop should not be moved while
adhesive is curing.
Use a router with a straight trim bit with oversized nylon
bearing to remove laminate from the interior of the bowl.
This is a commonly used bit to rough cut out acrylic sinks in
solid surface.
When doing postform tops where the integrated backsplash
prevents the use of a standard router, use a smaller laminate
trim router. For recommended bits, call Karran USA.
Trimming of the laminate back to the bowl wall should be
done with a 10° bevel bit with an oversized bearing (bearing
1/8” oversized). Both Amana and Velepec stock Edge sink
bowl bits.
Adjust the height of the bevel bit in the router until it is cutting
as much of the laminate away as possible without touch the
sink. Pay close attention during this stage as setting the bit too
low and touching the sink with the router bit may irreparably
damage the sink.
6
Removing the last remaining overhang of laminate and seaming adhesive may be accomplished by hand filing. Use an assortment of files included flat and round files to hand file the
edge of the laminate until it is flush with the bowl wall.
A 1” x 4” drum sander available from Lansen along with an air
drill is a good alternative to hand filing. Hold the drum sander at
as much of a vertical angle as possible and run it backwards
and forwards along the edge of the laminate. As soon as a
slight glint of steel can be seen through the seam adhesive,
stop sanding and remove remaining adhesive with a chisel as
shown below.
A chisel slid gently along the bowl wall just under the laminate
helps to remove adhesive from the sink wall.
Final touch up of laminate edge if needed can be accomplished with a fine grit sandpaper. This also assists in removing
scuffs and scratches that may have occurred during the
sanding stage.
Remember when using abrasives on the sink to always sand
with the grain lines, never against the grain lines.
7
A scuff ball or non-woven flap wheel (available from Lansen)
works well for final buffing and finishing.
Polishing paste (available from Lansen) along with a maroon
Scotch-Brite pad polishes and finishes sink wall if needed.
After drilling 1-1/2” holes for faucets, place a bead of silicone
around wall of FHSR and slide into faucet hole. This will ensure
your particleboard is completely sealed from possible water
penetration.
Recommended Router Bits
For Laminate and
1/2” Solid Surface
10˚ bevel bit with 1/8”
oversized bearing.
Amana Tools
Part #57-169
Fred M. Velepec Co.
Part #30-174
8
For 3cm Solid Surface
12˚ bevel bit with 1/8”
oversized bearing.
Fred M. Velepec Co.
Part #30-184
For 1/2” and 3cm
Solid Surface
Overhang trim bit.
Amana Tools
Part #57-155
Fred M. Velepec Co.
Part #30-280
SECTION 2: Installing EDGE Sinks in Solid Surface
After removing the sink from its box, inspect it for damage.
Check the integrity of the rim as well as the bowls for any signs
of shipping damage. If sink is damaged, call your distributor or
Karran USA immediately.
Measure and mark the back side of the solid surface countertop indicating where the sink needs to be installed. A set back
from the front edge of 2” to 2-1/2” is recommended but always
take into consideration the specific circumstances of each
installation relating to cabinet and plumbing placement.
Place the sink upside down on the back of the solid surface in
the marked position. Use hot melt glue to adhere blocks of
wood to locate sink easily. Placing the corner of the block in
line with the sink registration marks is simple and effective.
9
Place a strip of heat conductive tape around the rim of the sink.
Place strip 1/4” above rim then remove excess with a sharp
blade. Ensure that no tape remains above rim of sink.
Metal tape works well but many other types of tape will
prove suitable.
Clean the rim of the sink with a denatured alcohol and a
clean rag.
Clean the back of the solid surface where sink will adhere with
a denatured alcohol. Remove all pencil lines.
Prepare solid surface seaming adhesive. Remember to purge
tube to ensure adhesive is mixing with catalyst. Apply a continuous bead about 1/8” back from the inner front edge of the
sink. Bead should be between 1/4” and 3/8” wide. Then place
small dots on outside of bead every 2” to 3”. Use a color that is
appropriate for the color of solid surface being used.
10
Place sink into marked position as indicated by the wood
locator blocks. Use your preferred clamping method to clamp
sink in place while adhesive cures for 30 to 45 minutes.
Use an overhang bit or trim bit with oversized nylon bearing to
remove solid surface from inside of bowl.
Trimming of the solid surface should be done with a 10° bevel
bit with a 1/8” oversized nylon bearing. Adjust the height of the
bit in the router until it is cutting as much of the solid surface
away as possible without touch the sink. Pay close attention
during this stage as setting the bit too low and touching the
sink with the router bit may irreparably damage the sink.
Note: Bits with a greater bevel angle can be used but always
remember to use a nylon bearing that is 1/8” oversized.
Final trimming should leave a slight overhang of solid surface
and adhesive remaining.
11
An orbital sander with a soft radius pad and 60 to 80 micron
sandpaper should be used to sand the solid surface back to
the bowl wall.
Sand the solid surface only, not the sink. Sand at the same
angle as the router bit that was used.
Some hand sanding may be needed during the final sanding
of the edge of the solid surface.
A non-woven flap wheel (available from Lansen) works well for
final buffing and finishing.
Polishing paste (available from Lansen) along with a maroon
Scotch-Brite pad polishes and finishes sink wall if needed.
12
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