Jones Frame Manual for Jones Plus 148/Jones 29

Jones Frame Manual for Jones Plus 148/Jones 29
Est. 2002
Jones Bikes Frameset Supplemental Manual
Thank you for your purchase of a Jones Bikes frameset, you now own one of the most versatile framesets ever made! This
supplemental manual contains information specific to your Jones Bikes frameset that will help you get the most out of every ride.
We understand that manuals aren’t usually very interesting, but this one has some really useful information in it, so please take the
time to read it! Please refer to the User Manual for warnings and cautions, as well as general bicycle information not included here.
We recommend that only an experienced bicycle mechanic builds this frameset into a bike, and that they tune
and maintain that bike. If you feel competent to assemble and/or maintain this frame/bicycle yourself, you accept
responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of improper assembly, maintenance, or any other oversight.
We do not provide full instructions or information for you to assemble, tune, or maintain the bike. It is important
to do this work correctly to have a safe, reliable, and fun bicycle. When in doubt take the bike to your Jones Dealer
and have them check it out!
▲! W A R N I N G
Bicycle riding always involves risks and dangers including but not limited to death and serious neck
or spinal injuries. Wearing a helmet and riding within your limits can reduce your risk of harm, but
the risk can never be eliminated. By riding this bicycle you assume the all the risks and hazards
incidental to bicycling and you release, and hold harmless Jeff Jones, Jeff Jones Bicycles and Mud
Springs LLC with respect to injury, disability or death. This bike does not have lights or reflectors.
Do not ride at night without light and reflectors. Please refer to the User Manual for more information.
Basic Information about your Jones Bikes Frameset:
This frame is not compatible with suspension forks or suspension corrected rigid forks. Installing anything other than
a Jones Bikes fork designed for the specific model you are working with can change the geometry of the bicycle and ruin
the amazing handling that the Jones Geometry is known for, potentially leading to a crash and injury. Please refer to the
User Manual for more information.
Your bike includes a Bushnell eccentric bottom bracket (EBB), which allows you to adjust chain tension when using the frame
to build a singlespeed or internal gear hub equipped bicycle. It also allows you to adjust the bottom bracket height if you use
smaller wheels (such as 27.5).
Check out for complete installation and maintenance instructions
Make sure you grease the moving parts of the EBB where it contacts the frame as well as the threads of the expansion bolt
before installing it. Refer to Bushnell EBB instructions for more detailed information.
Be sure to check it after the first few rides. It will need to be tightened after settling in.
The EBB can be rotated to change the bottom bracket height. For standard wheels (29x2.4” for the Jones 29,
and 29x3.0” for the Jones Plus), we recommend setting the EBB at its lowest setting.
Seatpost and seat tube area
Your bike uses a 27.2mm seatpost. For Jones 29 frames, we usually recommend a seatpost with 15-25mm of setback. For Jones
Plus frames, we usually recommend a zero-offset seatpost. Some taller riders will find that they want a setback seatpost on the
Plus, and some smaller riders will find that they need a zero-offset seatpost on a Jones 29 frame.
Steel frames use a 31.8mm or 32mm seatpost clamp. Titanium frames use a 34.9mm or 35mm seatpost clamp.
Your frame requires 100mm/4” of seat post in the frame. Any more than that can be cut off to save weight
and make it possible to lower the seat more. See User Manual for more information
Drive train notes for Jones Plus
Your Jones Plus frame is designed around the Boost standard, and must be used with a Boost crankset. Boost cranks position the
chainrings 3mm farther outboard than standard cranks, and are key to getting proper tire clearance with 29x3” tires. As long as
you use Boost cranks in a double (2x) or single (1x) chainring configuration, you can use any style of drivetrain and combination
of gears on the bike. In addition to the Boost crankset, you will need a 148x12mm (Boost spacing) thru-axle rear hub. This
combination allows us to use cranks with a low Q-Factor (also known as tread), while being able to use tires up to 29x3.25”.
On the Jones 29, all drivetrains, as well as triple (3x) chainrings work fine because of the smaller tires.
Check for updates, and see User Manual for more information.
If you do not understand these instructions, or you have a question that this information does not cover, consult your Jones
Bikes dealer. If you have a question or problem that your Jones Bikes dealer can’t handle, contact us at:
Jones Bikes, 101 Sunny Street, Talent, Oregon 97540
Telephone: (541) 535-2034 Email: Website:
Our very latest instructions are available at
Est. 2002
Total function | On-road and off | Jones Geometry | Inspirational handling | The high-performance non-suspension bicycle
Front Derailleur
Jones Diamond 29 frames, and all Spaceframes, use a down-swing, top-pull front derailleur. Jones Diamond Plus frames use a
top-swing, down-pull front derailleur. All frames use a band clamp style front derailleur. Steel frames have a 31.8mm seat tube
diameter, and titanium frames have a 34.9mm seat tube diameter. You can use a dual-pull front derailleur on the Jones 29
frames, but we like the top-pull-only style because they have more tire clearance.
Spaceframe front derailleur routing from the front (left photo), and from the rear (right photo).
To route the front derailleur cable guide tube on Spaceframes, cut the front derailleur cable housing to the correct length and
install the appropriate ferrules. Then slide the guide tube over the cable until it hits the cable stop on the top tube, and seat the
cable housing in the cable stop (A.). Route the guide tube (with cable inside) underneath the second top tube brace (B.), then
between the two top tubes that extend to the rear of the bike to become the seat stays, over the brace at the seat tube, and
around the back of the seat tube (C.) down to the front derailleur. See your dealer for more information.
Truss Fork Installation
This covers Truss Fork installation using a Jones headset for truss forks. For other headsets, please refer to the notes that follow
these instructions and check with your dealer or at to see the latest compatibility information.
1.Ream and face the headtube.
2.Use a headset press to press headset cups into the frame. Note that they’re both the same!
And they don’t have any markings for you to get straight!
3.Thread the three truss clamp bolts in until they have threads engaged, but are not threaded in any further,
as this will begin to compress the clamps, making it it difficult to insert the steerer tube.
4.Push the steerer tube in from the bottom of the fork and leave about 15mm exposed above the lower truss clamp.
5.Grease the cups liberally, and push the bearings into the grease, making sure that the bearing retainers are
oriented correctly. Take the grease that squeezes out and use it to cover the bearings.
6.Put a 1.5mm spacer on the steerer, followed by the headset’s lower split ring, followed by the headset cone
assembly, making sure that the rubber seal is pressed on completely.
7.Set the top headset cone assembly and split ring on the top headset cup with bearings in place and don’t forget
to check the seal.
8.With lower bearings in place, slip the lower headset parts together and begin feeding the steerer up toward
the top headset cup until it is exposed a few millimeters.
9.Put spacers in between the upper headset assembly and the upper truss clamp by pulling upward on the truss to stretch
it a bit so that the spacers are tight and actually begin preloading the headset slightly (you don’t need to really bend the
fork, but you just don’t want the spacers to be at all loose, as it will make tightening the headset difficult).
10.Feed the steerer the rest of the way up, usually by hitting it with a soft mallet from the bottom until it’s flush with
the bottom of the fork.
11.Tighten the lower two truss clamp bolts evenly to between 90 and 100 in-lbs (10-11.25 Nm), adjust the headset
as usual, then tighten the upper truss clamp to approximately 65 in-lbs (6.78 Nm).
12.Tighten the stem to the manufacturer’s recommended torque.
Note: You can place the spacers above or below the headset to affect the frame geometry a small amount. Place all the
spacers above the headset for a lower bb and steeper angles (quicker feeling) or all below the headset for a higher bb and
slacker angles (more laid back). As a rule, we set up the bikes as described above, with the bulk of the spacers above the
headset. Just remember to keep at least one 1.5mm spacer underneath the headset at all times.
Truss fork headset compatibility information (intended for professional mechanics)
In order for a headset to work with the Jones truss fork, it must have what amounts to two upper headset assemblies. On
different types of headsets this means different things: on Chris King headsets, you will need to replace the crown race with a
“GripLock bearing cap”, which is the same as what goes on the top of the headset assembly because the upper and lower cups
and bearings are the same; on a Cane Creek headset, you can’t do the same thing. In the latter example, you can purchase two
complete upper headset assemblies for the 110 headset, and use those, but with Cane Creek’s other headsets, the process is
different. With the 40 and 10 models, you can install the plastic headset compression ring (available in our store at jonesbikes.
com/store) underneath the headset’s crown race. For all other headsets the same follows, but it can be complicated, and in
some cases, it’s not possible to modify the headset to work with a truss fork. In any case, using a standard crown race will not
work under any circumstances! For these reasons, we recommend using either a Jones headset for truss forks, or a Chris King
NoThreadSet with the GripLock bearing cap in place of the crown race. For updates in compatibility and more information,
please refer to, and check with your Jones Bikes Dealer. See User Manual for more
Wheel Information
Up front:
The front quick release lever is easier to use and fits best on the right side of the fork, away from the disk. Be sure the wheel is
all the way in the dropouts before tightening the quick release lever. The cam lever should be tight enough that when pushing
it into the closed position, it leaves a mark on your hand, but if you are using an exposed-cam style quick release, it may take
more force to get it tight enough. Periodically cleaning and lightly lubing with a drop of lightweight lubricant can make it
easier to tighten. This isn’t necessary with an internal cam system like those from Shimano. On the thru-axle forks, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions to thread the axle in until the cam lever leaves a mark in your hand when pushing it into the
“closed” position. Adjust the front cam lever so that it points toward the rear of the bike, or up, parallel to the fork blade. See
User Manual for more information..
There are three types of front hubs used on Jones bikes:
Jones 29 quick release forks use a 135mm QR front hub such as the Jones 135-F. Note that the disc spacing is front, not rear.
Jones 29 and non-boost Jones Plus forks use 142x15mm thru-axle hubs such as the Jones 135/142-F hub.
Boost versions of the Jones Plus use a 150x15mm thru-axle front hub.
In the rear:
On quick release frames, put the cam lever on the non-drive side of the bike, and tighten it so that it is pointing directly
backward if possible; otherwise put it in line with either the chain or seat stays. Please follow the same guidelines as for the front
quick release levers in order to determine the correct tightness of the rear cam lever. On thru-axle frames, the procedure is the
same as for the front wheel. Position the cam lever so that it is out of the way, in line with the chain or seat stays or pointing
directly rearward.
Tire Pressure and Size
Tire pressure is often overlooked, but it’s an important part of getting your bike to ride optimally. There is a very basic, very
common misconception about tire size and tire pressure that we’ve all heard, and it can be summed up as: “Narrow, high
pressure tires are faster.”
While we are used to equating a rough ride with a fast ride, this simply isn’t true. If it were, we would still be riding bikes with
solid tires! The one place where very narrow, high pressure tires make real sense is on the track, where the bikes are on a glasssmooth surface, and aerodynamics is the main limiting factor. Likewise, in road racing, where making it into a breakaway is
often helped by the ability to stage very rapid accelerations, small, high pressure tires are good because they are so lightweight.
However, outside, in the world where most of us ride, there are bumps everywhere, and we aren’t trying to get into the
breakaway! With high pressures, every small imperfection in the road and trail gets transmitted to your body, which slows you
down because there’s nothing to absorb those bumps. Not only that, if you’re getting beaten-up as you ride, you will get tired
more quickly, whereas if you’re comfortable and don’t feel every little pebble and rut, you’ll feel stronger for longer, and be able
to focus more on putting energy into forward motion as opposed to just keeping yourself comfortable. Wider tires give you
the extra air volume to absorb bumps while allowing you to have the benefits to efficiency and handling that come with a rigid
bicycle. This is why we recommend using wider tires on our bikes!
Rim width is another factor in how a tire behaves, and we recommend using a 50mm rim with a 29x2.4” tire on the Jones 29
frames, and a 50-56mm rim with a 29x3.0” tire on the Jones Plus. This makes the sidewalls more vertical, giving the tire better
support. What this means when you’re riding your bike is that the tire won’t have as much of a tendency to fold over under
hard cornering as it would if with a narrower rim, and it will help the tire resist pinch-flats because the wide rim has to displace
a larger volume of air as it travels into the air chamber created by the tire.
The ideal tire pressure will steer precisely without having the harsh, rough, slow ride that comes with high-pressure tires; it will soak
up the small bumps and irregularities in the road, lowering the tire’s rolling resistance, and increasing your comfort; it will provide
cushion for you body during hard impacts without bottoming out and pinching; finally, it will allow the tires to conform to the
ground in order to give the most traction without causing the bike to “self steer”. Finding the correct tire pressure will be a matter
of trial and error, but we encourage you to take the time to figure it out, because it will make your riding experience great!
As a starting place, we suggest these pressure ranges:
29x2.4” on 50mm rim: 14-20 PSI
29x3.0” on 50mm rim: 10-15 PSI
Heavier riders—especially those in rocky areas—will want to start on the high end of this range, and lighter riders on the low
end, but you’ll need to experiment. In any case, it’s a good idea to check your tire pressure before each ride, and be sure to use
an accurate gauge because few floor pumps have the fine measurement and accuracy that you’ll need at under 20 PSI.
Bike Maintenance
While it’s beyond the scope of this supplement to tell you everything you need to know about maintaining your bike, we’d like
to offer a few tips that will make your bike work better and last longer:
Don’t pressure wash your bike! It blasts grease out of bearings and replaces it with dirty water, which just doesn’t lubricate them
very well. Instead, if you have to wash your bike, use a low pressure garden hose and some dish soap. Put some soap in a bucket
and use a soft brush to scrub the bike, before gently rinsing it. Try to avoid the bearings—especially the bottom bracket and
hubs—and be ready to take the wheels off and clean everything very thoroughly afterward! Re-lube the chain and dry the bike
off after washing it.
Lubing the chain
This is a basic, but very important and often-overlooked area. Following this technique will give you a well-lubed chain, and
won’t contaminate any other parts of the bike, which is very important. Make sure not to use spray-lube because overspray can
get on the brake rotor, which will contaminate your brake pads, making the brake almost useless.
If the chain is very dirty, use a stiff brush to scrub it off. If you really want to get it looking new, you can remove the chain or use
one of the many chain cleaning tools available to degrease your chain. The reason not to do this is that getting the degreaser
completely out, and lubricant back in is very difficult. Therefore, it’s often better to just use lubricant to clean your chain, as
described next.
Once you’ve gotten the surface gunk off, shift into the big ring (if you aren’t using a single ring in the front), and a small cog in
the rear and, while you pedal the bike backwards with your right hand, apply lube from a squeeze-bottle just in front of the rear
derailleur pulley until you can see that the full length of the chain has lubricant on it. Alternatively, you can put a single drop of
lube on each roller of the chain.
After applying lube, continue pedalling backward for a minute or two to work the lube into the chain, then, using a rag, wipe
the chain off while you spin the cranks backwards. Try to get all of the lube off.
If you really want to flush your chain and clean it more, you can simply repeat this process.
If you have any questions, please feel free to call.
Thank you and enjoy your rides!
Jeff Jones, Cyclist
If you do not understand these instructions, or you have a question that this information does not cover, consult your Jones
Bikes dealer. If you have a question or problem that your Jones Bikes dealer can’t handle, contact us at:
Jones Bikes, 101 Sunny Street, Talent, Oregon 97540
Telephone: (541) 535-2034 Email: Website:
Our very latest instructions are available at
Est. 2002
Total function | On-road and off | Jones Geometry | Inspirational handling | The high-performance non-suspension bicycle
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