READ THIS FIRST FOR AN EASY INSTALL:
READ THIS FIRST FOR AN EASY INSTALL:
MOST IMPORTANT TIPS & F.A.Q.
1) The threaded holes in the amplifier cavity and under the speaker are used in the molding process and mean
nothing for your install.
2) If your radio has unused RCA Inputs, use them! If it has an RCA Sub Input, even better! If you don’t have
RCA’s and you’re going to use actual speaker wires as the inputs. That’s okay, but it is recommended that you
use a High-to Low adapter so you can still run RCA’s into the amplifier for the input signal.
These little boxes are available at Radio Shack or your local car audio or auto parts store and are usually around $15.
3) THE ABSOLUTE MOST IMPORTANT COMPONENT IN YOUR CAR AUDIO SYSTEM IS THE RADIO!
Your amplifier(s) and speakers can only replicate the signal they receive. A generic radio simply won’t give
you a crisp, clean signal for which to work with and will seriously inhibit an otherwise great-sounding system.
If you’re looking to upgrade to a better radio, get one with two sets of (4 volt or better) RCA pre-amp outputs
AND an RCA Subwoofer pre-amp output.
4) When you’re conducting sound tests on the Intra-Pod, check your FM sound as well as your CD sound.
No matter what radio you have, they all produce a better signal with a higher dB when playing a CD. The
exact same song played on FM simply won’t sound as good or get as loud, that’s just the way it is.
5) Make sure that you run all wires in a manner where they can run right through a vent on the bottom of the
Intra-Pod. This will ensure the unit fits snuggly along the floor and isn’t sitting on top of wire. (See below)
Note:
RUN RCA’s OR SPEAKER INPUT WIRES TO THE
AMPLIFIER AWAY FROM YOUR AMP’s
POWER AND REMOTE WIRES, TO
REMOVE INTERFERENCE (i.e. noise
or ‘hum’ coming through speakers.) BRING THE
REMOTE AND POWER WIRE IN THROUGH A
SEPARATE VENT.
6) The best place to run the amplifier power wire through the firewall and to your Jeep’s battery is on the bottom
right-hand corner of the firewall on the passenger’s side, just above where the floor slopes upward and
meets the firewall. You’ll see a little painted metal area that’s exposed, that’s where you want to drill a
hole to run the amplifier power wire through. Mount the wire’s fuse block in the engine compartment,
above your battery. Drill two pilot holes in the firewall and run two screws through the fuse block and
into the firewall.
7) The ground wire for the amplifier should be as short as possible. For best results, mount it by way of
a ring terminal to one of the front seat bolts that mount the seats to the floor. Large ring terminals such as this
can be purchased at your local car audio or auto parts store. (Or you can use the smaller ring terminal that comes
with the amplifier wiring kit and drill a smaller hole, use a smaller screw and run it into the floor of the vehicle.
Either way, make sure the terminal is sitting on bare metal.) Remove the seat bracket and scrape some paint out
of the way to expose bare metal on the floor boards for the ring terminal to rest on. FOLLOWING THIS
METHOD WILL ENSURE A GREAT GROUND! We also recommend that you ground your radio at the
same place as the amplifier. This can be accomplished by cutting the ground wire at the back of the radio and
attaching it to a new wire, which is run from your radio to the amplifier’s ground location. This method will
reduce all ground loops between your radio and amplifier, reducing the risk of alternator ‘whine’.
8) Don’t go nuts fastening the Intra-Pod to the floor, just enough to hold it securely without splitting the two
tabs up front. The third and final screw is mounted through the base of the Intra-Pod and into the floor, behind
the speaker; this one can go in tighter since it won’t split the plastic.
9) Use solder for wire connections, if possible.
SPEAKER INSTALLATION:
Unless your speaker can drop inside the grille mounting ring, you’ll want to install the speaker
with the mounting ring on top of the speaker with the edge facing upward to accept the grille cover.
DEFINITELY USE THE INCLUDED FOAM GASKET. It goes between the pod and speaker.
SEAL THE HOLE!!
Make sure to seal the extra space around the speaker wires where they go through the grommet
hole with a glue gun, wax, etc. so no air escapes and the internal space is completely sealed. If air
can escape there it can result in a vibration noise or whistling noise.
INSTRUCTIONS
CALL US OR EMAIL IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS!
If you’ve installed an amplifier before or if you already have one or more in your vehicle, you probably know how you’re going to
integrate the Intra-Pod into your vehicle’s current audio system. Should you require assistance, give us a call.
These instructions are geared toward those who purchased the Intra-Pod with the amplifier and speaker included and who have a basic
car audio system. Following these instructions will help even if you supply your own components.
First, place the Intra-Pod between the seats as it will be when installed. Make sure you can shift into 2nd, 4th, and
reverse without hitting the front of the unit. (A select few may have to install the unit slightly toward the rear of the vehicle.) With the
Intra-Pod in place, outline the amplifier cavity area by placing pieces of masking tape around the area; this ensures that all wires will be
concealed. Remove the Intra-Pod and cut two small slits in the carpet, one where the REM, GND, & BATT wires will come through
the carpet and connect to the amplifier, and one where the INPUT signals will do the same.
We now need to determine what kind of audio system you currently have and the best way to integrate
the Intra-Pod. Below are two examples, one of which, should be a basic representation of your vehicle
A:
Optional Low-Level (RCA) Outputs
+
+
LF
-
Radio
-
+
-
Unused
Speaker
Outputs
+
RF
-If your vehicle currently has two speakers. This could
be two speakers in the dash, or two in the rear, or just a
sound bar. If this describes your vehicle, you’ll want to
make sure that these current speakers are connected to the
two front speaker outputs of your radio. You’ll want to
use the two unused rear speaker outputs as the high level
(speaker) input for the amplifier. If you radio has low level
(RCA) outputs then use them instead. Remember to not use
the high level and the low level inputs at the same time.
B:
Optional Low-Level (RCA) Outputs
LF
-
Radio
+
+
+
LR
-
-
RF
+
RR
-If your vehicle currently has four or more speakers.
The amplifiers input signal can be derived by tapping off the
two rear speaker outputs of the radio and send this signal to
the high level (speaker) input of the amplifier. If your radio
has low level (RCA) outputs then use them instead.
Remember to not use the high level and the low level
inputs at the same time. (i.e. use either the rear speaker
wire inputs OR RCA inputs, not both!)
SEE WIRING DIAGRAM ON NEXT PAGE
Next, run the speaker input wires as well as the REM., BATT. and GND wires from their points of origin, under the carpet and up
through the slits in the carpet, pulling enough wire through to connect to the amplifier with the amp sitting in the passenger seat. Note:
Running the amplifier power lines right next to the speaker lines may affect sound quality and is not recommended. Consult
your amplifier owner’s manual for proper wiring.
Wire the amplifier (GROUND FIRST) with it sitting in the passenger seat and the Intra-Pod (with speaker installed) sitting between
the seats as if the unit were already installed. Do it this way so you have access to the controls on the side of the amplifier. Once the
amplifier is installed, changes to the controls are difficult. Once this is completed, it’s time to fine tune / sound test, and get the
settings exactly where you want them. Try various music with little and lots of bass to find the limits of your subwoofer. Make sure
that you test the sound while very loud, as it would be driving at 55 mph with the top down. You want everything to sound as good
as it can at this typical listening level!
+
JEEP FUSE BLOCK UNDER DASH.
USE AN ACCESSORY FUSE INSERT,
ONE THAT ONLY RECEIVES POWER
WITH THE IGNITION IN THE ACCESSORY
POSTION FOR THE AMP REMOTE WIRE.
Fuse
Block
CAR BATTERY
RADIO
Drill hole in bottom right corner of firewall
near where passenger floor rolls up and meets
firewall
LEFT DASH SPEAKER
+
RIGHT DASH SPEAKER
-
-
+
Plenty of wire to run amp
from final place under
Intra-Pod
RCA’s to
radio if possible
OR
Wire Plug
+
REM. +
FLOOR
SEAT BOLT
Bridged
Mode
Just an overlap on
diagram, wires do
not connect here.
-
+
LEFT REAR SPEAKER
(SOUNDBAR, ETC.)
AMPLIFIER PLACED IN
PASSENGER SEAT FOR
INSTALL TUNING.
(TEMPORARY)
+
RIGHT REAR SPEAKER
(SOUNDBAR, ETC.)
-
+
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE REMAINING AIR SPACE AROUND THE SPEAKER
WIRES (THROUGH THE GROMMET HOLE) IS PLUGGED! AT HIGH POWER, THIS AIR
LEAK COULD RESULT IN A WHISTLING NOISE.
Installing the Unit:
With the amplifier back in place and the Intra-Pod firmly in position, first check that you can shift into 2nd, 4th, and Reverse.
Using the torx tamper-resistant bit, run the Tamper-Resistant Screws through the two plastic screw tabs, located on either
side, toward the front of the unit an through the floor of the vehicle. The screws should be run through on a slight angle,
far inside the tab so the tabs won’t split. With the speaker removed, run the last screw through the base of the unit, behind
where the speaker goes, and through the floor of the vehicle. If you are using a powerful drill, do not run the screws in too
tightly, doing so may split the plastic tab and compromise security.
DEFINITELY USE THE INCLUDED FOAM SPEAKER GASKET. It goes between the pod and speaker.
Speaker and Grille: If you purchased the unit with speaker included, installing it along with the grille is tricky. This particular
speaker has a large metal basket; the screw holes on the speaker don’t perfectly line up with those on the
grille back plate. Here’s how you do it: After hooking up the speaker wires to the speaker, place it in the
cavity and run the short speaker screws through at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. Next, put the grille
back plate against the speaker with the grille plate holes flush against the speaker foam rim and the rim facing
upward for the mesh grille cover to slide on later. Line the grille back plate screw holes up to the remaining
unused screw holes on the actual speaker as best you can. As you can see, you have to run the screws in on
an angle to go through the back plate and catch the speaker holes and in to the Intra-Pod. Use the longer
phillips-head screws for this. It is best get all four screws started before tightening them.
Note: The Legacy® subwoofer provided is rated at 800 watts peak power. This means it
can realistically handle up to 200 watts of continuous power. The Legacy® LA360 amplifier
can produce a solid 250 watts of continuous power when bridged. When your
radio volume is turned way up and your subwoofer is at the point where it is producing
‘muffled’ sound, turn your radio down a little or you may blow the speaker! The power
ratings for the components are compatible, but if you don’t have a really clear signal
coming from your radio (as described on the other page) you may blow the speaker at
very high volumes.
-Amplifier tray measures 11” x 8” x 3+”
-Speaker Mounting depth of up to 8” with a maximum magnet diameter of about 5 3/8”
Select Increments is not responsible for any defects with amplifiers, speakers,
or wiring kits. If you experience any problems with these components, you
must contact the manufacturers of these components for replacement
parts. Contact information and warranty cards are included with
the audio components.
Select Increments
524 Street Road
West Grove, PA 19390
email - sales@selectincrements.com
Phone: 610-345-9044
Fax: 610-345-9045
www.selectincrements.com
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