Emseal manual BODY.CDR:CorelDRAW

Emseal manual BODY.CDR:CorelDRAW
!
s
n
o
i
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a
l
u
Congrat
...on your purchase of the EMSEAL
thermal laminator. We are sure you
will find this machine easy to operate
and trouble free. To obtain a high and
consistent level of lamination, y o u
must first understand a little about
how the machine works, and also
what to do if something goes wrong.
This is why we ask you to
PLEASE
read the manual before you operate
the machine.
You will find the
knowledge of how this machine
operates to be of great help when you
are using it.
EMSeal
Thermal Laminator
CONTENTS
Laminating - The Theory
Selecting a position for your machine
Assembling your laminator
Loading Film
Laminating
Film Tension Adjustment
Troubleshooting
Mechanical Problems
Maintenance
3
4
5
6-8
9
10
11-12
13-14
15
Page 2
THE THEORY - HOW A LAMINATOR WORKS
Laminating film is made from polyester, and is coated with an
adhesive with a high temperature resistance. This adhesive
melts and becomes extremely sticky at temperatures of around
130 degrees Celsius. This film is drawn over two heated heater
bars, through a set of rollers, then stretched flat by the rear pair of
rollers. The item to be laminated is fed between the two layers of
film as they enter the machine.
Under heat and pressure, the layers of film form a flexible
air and watertight seal, thereby greatly increasing the lifespan
of the laminated item, and making it less vulnerable to
moisture, tearing, creasing and general damage.
Cross section of laminated item.
Paper
Film
Adhesive
Main components of a roll fed laminator.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Page 3
Heater bars
Upper idler bar
Top film roll
Lower film roll
Lower idler bar
Front rollers
Rear rollers
3
2
1
4
7
6
5
SELECTING A POSITION FOR YOUR MACHINE
NOTE: When lifting or moving your laminator, it is
advisable to have another person to help you with
the lifting. By bending your knees and keeping your
back straight, you will help to prevent excessive strain
and possible damage to your back.
1 Place the machine in a well ventilated area on a firm bench or on a
specially designed trolley.
1 Ensure the machine is out of the path of drafts, such as windows,
Air conditioners, fans and overhead ducts.
1 The machine should be placed in a well lit area on a table or bench
which allows clear access to both the front and back.
1 The exiting lamination must be able to fall directly, do NOT place
the machine so that the film mounts up on the bench or against a wall.
1 The room temperature should be no less then 15 degrees Celsius
for best results. It is best if the humidity is low, as too much humidity
has adverse effects on lamination.
1Ensure that the power outlet is readily accessible and installed near
the laminating machine.
Note : To prevent excessive DC current in the supply neutral, do not have the rollers
turning for more than 2 hours per day.
Page 4
ASSEMBLING YOUR LAMINATOR
As well as the laminator, you will find:
2 Mandrels with core Adaptors
1 Feed Table
1 Toolkit
1 Load plate
EMSEAL LAMINATOR CONTROLS
Motor Reverse / Forward switch.
0
5
1
4
2
Speed control
3
Temperature indicator. When lit,
the machine is heating. Unlit
indicates the machine has reached
temperature. It is normal for this to
switch on and off during operation.
Temperature control. Used for
setting the machine temperature.
temperature control
Page 5
LOADING FILM
It is important to have the same type of film on the top and bottom, as
different grades of film will adhere at different temperatures, and it is
also important to use film that is the same width to avoid getting
adhesive on the rollers.
Load the two rolls of film onto the mandrels, making sure the adhesive
is facing in the correct direction (See diagram)
Upper roll of film.
Lower roll of film.
The lower idler bar is designed to move for ease of loading. When
loading, the idler bar should be in the lower position. After the film has
been pulled around the idler bar, you should move it upwards until it
locks into the upper position.
The idler bar
in the lower
`loading'
position.
Lower idler bar
is lifted up into
operational
position.
Load mandrels with the film into their respective mandrel brackets.
Page 6
LOADING THE FILM (Continued)
Draw the film from the top roll forward,
under the idler bar, and allow it to hang
down over the front of the heater bars.
Now draw the film from the lower roll
around behind the lower idler bar, then up
and over the heater bars so it overlaps the
film from the upper roll, as shown.
Now turn on the machine and allow it to
reach the temperature set, and set the
motor to `FORWARD'.
Take the load plate and press it against the
film and into the front rollers. If the rollers
are rotating in the correct direction, the
load plate will be drawn into the machine,
taking the film with it. When the load plate
has exited the rear rollers, switch off the
motor, and allow the laminator to reach the
set temperature.
Heat up time should be around 10
minutes.
While waiting for the laminator to heat up,
you may place the feed table onto the
lower mandrel brackets.
If all has gone well, you should now be
prepared to begin laminating.
Page 7
Load plate pushed into
rotating rollers.
LOADING THE FILM (Continued)
Alternative start up procedure.
When the laminator is already loaded, startup is a simple procedure.
First, turn the thermostat to the operational temperature. DO NOT start the
motor. After approximately 10-15 minutes the machine should be ready to
run.
Caution must be taken to ensure the machine is hot when starting, as any
glue on the rollers can lead to pieces of rubber from the rollers being torn off.
This can be avoided by using the two strips of yellow silicone paper which
are between the rollers when the machine arrives.
CHANGING FILM ROLLS
When the film is about to run out during lamination there is a simple way to
reload.
1. Stop the machine before the film runs out.
2. If the UPPER ROLL is running out, cut the film from the old core, leaving
the film draped over the upper heater. Positioning film carefully, bring new
film forward so that it rests on and adheres to the hot tacky adhesive of the
previous film, on the heater bar.
3. If the BOTTOM ROLL runs out, firstly, remove the feed table. The
process for loading the bottom roll of film is almost the same as for the top
roll. Remember to lower the idler bar before reloading. Attach film to the
film on the upper heat shoe.
New film is adhered
to the old film, so it
is pulled through the
rollers.
Page 8
LAMINATING
Feeding Material
1. Set the motor control to `forward'.
2. Lay the item to be laminated flat on the feed table. Using your
fingertips, stretch the material sideways to pull out any creases,
move the item into the front rollers, at a speed slower than that of
the film travel.
3. The item will be slowly drawn forward by the rollers.
Maintain a slight outward and backward pressure on the item to
prevent creasing. Hold the item as long as possible to prevent
buckling. This is most important for thin items, whereas a fairly
thick item, such as light card, may not need to be held.
Film Direction
Pull back on the item in the direction of the arrows
Page 9
FILM TENSION ADJUSTMENT
Film tension should never be a difficult matter. The best amount of film
tension is as little as needed to acquire a good result. Additional braking
force is required if the film is badly wound, or if longitudinal ridges appear
in the film When increasing the film tension, turn the brake knob a quarter
turn and ensure that the lower film tension is adjusted by the same
amount.
DO NOT overtighten the film. At all times it should be possible to easily
turn the film roll with one hand. Loosen the brakes when changing film
rolls.
TESTING FOR EVEN FILM TENSION.
By cutting a semi-circle shape into a piece of laminated film, it is easy to
tell how even the film tension is.
Semi-circle cut into film
Curls up:
Increase lower pressure
or decrease upper pressure
Curls down:
Increase upper pressure
or decrease lower pressure
Page 10
TROUBLESHOOTING
Material not laminating, or laminating in patches.
This problem normally occurs due to lack of heat and will usually show up in the
first few items.
Solution : Increase temperature by 5º, wait until machine has heated, and test.
If this does not work, it is possible that:
• The film adhesive is not compatible with the material
• The material may have silicone varnish finish which does not accept
laminating adhesive. This is very rare. Check with your film supplier.
• Insufficient roller pressure, tighten front rollers.
• Rollers have a film or adhesive build up forcing the rollers apart. Clean the
rollers.
• Very high moisture content in the material to be laminated. Allow to dry.
Creases or wrinkling of paper while laminating
• Creases at beginning of an item
This is caused by
a) Pushing the material too quickly into the machine
b) Holding material on feed table near heater bars for
a long time, causing the edge of the material to bubble
c) Not feeding the material flat.
• Creases at end of item
An arc shaped crease at the end can occur in some
papers. Hold paper with firmer back tension.
This normally occurs with lightweight and/or damp paper.
• Buckling or mottling of paper
This generally indicates excessive moisture content.
It occurs most commonly in black or very dark items.
The solutions are:
a) Reduce temperature slightly, and/or
b) dry out paper
Black or very dark items
Dark / Black / dense inks vary greatly in their formulation but commonly have
evaporative solvents or moisture trapped in the drying powders sprayed onto
the surface during printing in order to prevent the items sticking to one another.
Page 11
This works very well for the printer. However, when you apply heat to the
products the residual moisture may evaporate, and cause a swathe of grey
`watermarks' to appear.
Alternatively, the solvents may be held captive in the drying powder,
(sometimes you can actually feel the roughness of the surface), or the drying
may have been very effective and absorbed moisture from the air, which is
expelled at high temperatures.
Additionally, these types of posters are susceptible to showing up uneven
light and dark patches across the width.
Always laminate these items at the end of a run, and without hesitation feed
the item into the rollers. It is best to reduce the temperature slightly for dark
items.
Page 12
Mechanical Problems
Film Wrap Ups - Rear Rollers
If no more than two or three revolutions have occurred, stop the laminator,
then turn the motor direction to reverse. As soon as the film disengages from
the rear of the machine, stop the motor. Select forward, and pull the film
strongly from the rollers. Be careful to make sure that while rewinding the
film does not attach itself to the front rollers.
Causes of a rear roller wind up.
Economising by cutting too close to the rear rollers after laminating.
Solution: If you can't leave more than 100mm lead out the back of a machine,
then it pays to invest in a king size bulldog clip and hang it on the film. The
weight ensures the film will not wind in.
Film curling up or down and winding around the rollers.
Solution: Check to see if film is curling up or down. (See page 10)
Film sticking to rollers
Sometimes after a long run the rear rollers may heat up to the point where
they melt adhesive. If the film rolls are not aligned then the glue may stick,
pulling the film around the rollers.
Machine too close to wall causing film build up at rear of machine.
Move machine away from wall
Causes of a front roller wind up
1) Film break on loading.
2) Molten adhesive on rollers when loading
3) Film loaded inside out (adhesive against rollers)
Solution: This is a messy problem and is made more difficult as the machine
must be heated before you can fix the problem. If the amount of film which
has wound through the rollers is small, follow this procedure.
Page 13
1) Cut both upper and lower film 75mm from feed in point.
2) Cut film between front and rear rollers
3) Cut film beyond rear rollers
4) Put machine into reverse.
5) Grasp material in front of heat shoes, and try to reverse film out of front
rollers.
6) Check rollers for any film or adhesive residue and clean off if necessary
(see roller cleaning instructions)
If this failed to resolve your problem:
1) Turn temperature to 120C and wait 5 minutes.
2) Turn off thermostat - cut film as described above.
3) Use a pair of long nosed pliers to lift film. While it is hot it can be easily
removed. Use reverse motor function to lift film off.
NOTE - A metallic or other abrasive scouring pad should NEVER be used to
clean rollers, and DO NOT EVER THINK OF USING A KNIFE.
NOISES
A certain amount of sound is to be expected from the machine, but certainly
not a loud or intrusive sound. However, you may hear one of the following
sounds.
1) A very loud high pitched sound. This is caused by adhesive finding its
way onto either the top or bottom heat shoe. This can be simply overcome
by cleaning the heat shoe. (refer to the cleaning section)
2) A much thinner squeal which comes and goes and is probably a bearing
gone dry. Solution : Lubricate bearing.
Page 14
MAINTENANCE
The EMSEAL has been designed with a minimum of parts, and for trouble
free use to reduce the risk of breakdowns. The only essential maintenance
to be done on a regular basis is to clean the heater bars and front rollers when
adhesive builds up on them, and to lubricate the chain and roller bearings.
Heat Shoe Cleaning
Heat the machine to operational temperature.
Use a piece of cotton cloth large enough to make into a fist sized ball, lightly
dampen with kerosene and thoroughly clean heat shoes to remove all traces
of adhesive or film deposits.
A stubborn deposit such as a dried piece of film may be approached with a
nylon scouring pad. NEVER USE METAL SCOURING PADS OR SHARP
INSTRUMENTS (SUCH AS KNIVES)
Laminator Roller Cleaning.
Indications for cleaning are a build up of adhesive at edges of film travel, or
shiny patches where film has curled over during loading or when a roll has
run out.
In order to prevent damage to rollers and costly replacement, do not use
sharp or pointed instruments to clean rollers or remove film. Under NO
circumstances use petrol, alcohol or detergents to clean rollers.
Cleaning the front rollers may only be undertaken while the machine is at
operational temperature.
1. Cut film and clear leftover from machine.
2. As soon as the visible face of the roller is clean, reverse the rollers slightly
to allow access to another part of the roller.
3. Use small amounts of kerosene on a cloth. Do not attempt to `wash'
rollers, as large amounts of kerosene may cause damage. Work from side to
side on the rollers until all shining spots have gone and no adhesive build up
is evident at the edges.
4. Where pieces of film have adhered, stop the rollers and lift off the film with
a pair of tweezers, taking care not to pinch the rubber.
Page 15
Written by Emseal Pty. Ltd.
COPYRIGHT ©1994 Emseal Pty. Ltd.
The contents of this manual are subject to copyright, with all rights
reserved by Emseal Pty. Ltd. The Contents may not be reproduced in
whole or in part by any means without prior written approval of Emseal
Pty. Ltd..
DISCLAIMER
Emseal Pty. Ltd. has exercised its best efforts in relation to the
information in this manual. However, no warranty of reliability or
accuracy is given and Emseal Pty. Ltd. shall not be responsible or
liable for the correctness or suitability of that information or for any
error or omission (whether negligent or otherwise).
EMSEAL PTY. LTD.
ABN 85 005 287 427
EMSeal
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