Russian Motorcycles Brembo Disc Brake Systems

Russian Motorcycles Brembo Disc Brake Systems
Russian Motorcycles
Brembo Disc Brake Systems
(See also Russian Motorcycle Brake Lights and Switches)
Ernie Franke
eafranke@tampabay.rr.com January 2012
Ural Brembo Brakes
• Ural Equipped with Hydraulic Disc Brake in Front, with Manual Shoe-Type Brakes in Rear
and Sidecar
–Front Wheel Hydraulic Disc Brake Consists of Caliper, Brake Pads and Disc
–Front Brake Responsible for 70% of Total Stopping Power
–Sidecar Brake Connected to Rear Brake Pedal
–Spare Tire, Used to Directly Replace either Rear Wheel or Sidecar Wheel, but Disc Brake
Prevents All-Around Replacement, as in the Old Days when Ural Used a Drum Front
Brake
• WARNING in Owner’s Manual: Never Use Front Brake to Stop when Motorcycle Is Moving
in Reverse
–Severe Damage to Front Brake Caliper and Mounting Plate Will Occur
• Order of Presentation
–Brembo (Italy) Disc Brakes
–Calipers
–Replaceable Pads
–Hydraulic Reservoir
–Hydraulic Brake Line
–Ural by Year and Model
–Fixed / Floating Rotor Disc: New and Old
• Front Disc Brakes Require Periodic Inspection, but Do Not Require Adjustment
–Brake Pads Inspected by Removing Dust Shield from Top of Caliper
–Check Thickness Pads: Should Be Replaced when Less than 1/8” of Pad Remaining on
Either Pad
–Brake Hose Inspected for Leaks and Cracks along Length of Hose and Banjo Fittings on
Both Ends
Brembo Brakes are found on modern Urals (2003+), but not on Dneprs.
Ural Disc Brake Parts
Stainless Steel, Braided Cable, Hydraulic Brake Line (Hose)
Banjo Fitting
Bleed Valve
Brake Pad Dust Cover
Pins for Retaining Brake Pads
Disc Rotor
“Floating” Disc Rivets (Buttons)
Brake Disc Evolution by Part Numbers
• Front Disc Brake Caliper Introduced to Urals in 2003
– Front Brake Caliper (Brembo): IMZ-8.1238-27005-01 (Brembo 20.6800.10)
• Brake Rotor Disc
– 2003-2007: IMZ-8.1037-06026 (Russian) 300 mm diameter
• Not Available Anymore: Upgrade Using Brembo Items;
– 8 IMZ-8.1037-06026-10 Brembo Floating Rotor Installed from 2007
– 8a IMZ-8.1037-06132 (steel) IMZ-8.1037-06132-10 (aluminum) Brembo Brake Adapter - Used to Mount Brembo
Rotor (adapter plate has width to it to shim the rotor out from the hub)
– Brake Disc (2007-2009): IMZ-8.1037-06026-10 (Brembo 08.4899.72) 320 mm diameter
• Disc a Little Bit Thinner
• European Recall in Fall 2010 to Add Washers beneath Rotor Screws
– Original Bolts Too Long in Some Cases
– Bolts Fit Brembo Discs, which Were Thicker
– Brake Disc (2010+): IMZ-8.1037-06026-NG (www.ngbrakedisc.com) 295 mm diameter
• Front Brake Switch
– Brake Switch (Brembo) Up to 2006: IMZ-8.1037-17048-07
– Brake Switch (Brembo) 2007-2008: IMZ-8.1037-17048-2007, IMZ-8.1037-17048-EU
– Brake Switch (Brembo) 2009+: IMZ-8.1037-17048-2009 (Brembo 10.4671.61)
• Front Master Brake Cylinder (MBC) Assembly
– Front Master Brake Cylinder: IMZ-8.1238-27003-10 (Brembo 10.4620.79)
• Hydraulic Brake Line (Hose)
– Rubber Brake Hose (2003-2007)
• IMZ-8.1037-27014-10 (for Telescopic Fork)
• IMZ-8.1037-27015 (for Leading Link)
– Steel-Flex Braided Brake, incl. banjo bolts and sealing rings (2008+): IMZ-8.1037-27015-08
• Front Brake Pads
– Set of Two Brake Pads: IMZ-8.1238-27097 (Brembo 107.6708.10 Organic Compound)
– Set of Two Brake Pads: Brembo Sintered: 07.6708.02
– Set of Two EBC Double-H Sintered Metal Brake Pads: FA244HH
• Conversion Kit for Drum Brake to Brembo Disc Brake
– Complete Assy. Converts Russian Drum Brake to a 2007-Style Brembo Disc Brake, Includes All Components (front
wheel, fork leg, rotor, caliper mounts, reaction link, all hardware, etc.)
– Front Forks
– Telescopic Fork (Russian): IMZ-8.103-08001-30 (750 cc)
– Leading Link Fork Assy for Disc Brake from 2006: IMZ-8.1037-08001-40
– Leading Link Fork Assy for Disc Brake from 2007: IMZ-8.1037-08001-41
– Leading Link Fork Assy for Disc Brake from 2008: IMZ-8.1037-08001-08
– Leading Link Fork Assy for Disc Brake from 2011: IMZ-8.1037-08001-90-Color
As you can see, it’s hard to keep up with the changes associated
with Brembo disc brakes.
Disc Brake Evolution on Urals (2003-2004)
• 2003 Patrol
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2003 Tourist
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2004 Patrol
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2004 Troyka
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Telescopic Fork
Left-Hand Caliper
• 2004 Tourist
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
It takes a heap of investigation to determine the evolutionary path
of such a simple arrangement.
Disc Brake Evolution on Urals (2005-2006)
• 2005 Retro
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Left-Hand Caliper
• 2005 Troyka
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Left-Hand Caliper
• 2005 Gear-Up
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2006 Troyka
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Left-Hand Caliper
• 2005 Patrol
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2006 Patrol
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2006 Gear-Up
Rubber Brake Hose
Fixed Rotor Disc
Right-Hand Caliper
The forks’ leading link design, though archaic, actually works better
for sidecar handling than do conventional telescopic forks.
Disc Brake Evolution on Urals (2007-2008)
• 2007 Patrol
Floating Rotor Disk
New Brake Hose Routing
with Retaining Clips
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2007 Pustinja Floating
Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2008 Patrol
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2007 Retro
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2008 Gear-Up
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2008 Retro
Floating Rotor Disk
Left-Hand Caliper
Floating Disc
(Note Rivets)
• 2008 Tourist
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
The evolution of disc brakes involves rotors, calipers, brake lines,
switches, pads, master cylinders and conversion kits.
Disc Brake Evolution on Urals (2009-2011)
• 2009 Patrol
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2009 Gear-Up
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2010 Red October
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2011 Patrol
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2009 Retro
Floating Rotor Disk
Left-Hand Caliper
• 2009 Sahara
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2009 Ural T
Floating Rotor Disk
Right-Hand Caliper
• 2011 M-70
Floating Rotor Disk on
Telescopic Fork
Right-Hand Caliper
Steel-Braided Hose
Leading-Link versus Telescopic Front Forks
• Leading Link Fork
–Used on Patrol, Gear-Up and Tourist
–Mounts Brembo Caliper on Right-Hand Side
• Telescopic Fork
–Used on Retro, Troyka
–Mounts Brembo Caliper on Left-Hand Side
• Except for Ural T and M-70 (Telescopic Fork and Right-Hand Caliper)
Telescopic-Type Fork
Leading Link, Lever-Type Fork
Differing front forks require differing brake solutions.
Owner’s Manuals
Leading Link Fork
Right-Hand Caliper
Rubber Brake Line
Telescopic Fork
Left-Hand Caliper
Rubber Brake Line
Component (750 cc)
Leading Link Fork
Telescopic Front Fork
Front Fork
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-50 (for EU)
IMZIMZ-8.10368.1036-08001 (Retro from
2010)
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-40 (from 2006)
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-11 (Paoli)
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-41 (from 2007)
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-08 (from
(from 2008)
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-9090-Color (2010)
(2010) (Bearing Type)
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-0800108001-3 (up to 2007)
2007) (Bushing Type)
Brake Line
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-27015
IMZIMZ-8. 126126-2701427014-10
Front Wheel Bracket Mounting Set
IMZIMZ-8.10378.1037-27001
IMZIMZ-8.12368.1236-27001
2006-2011 Ural Maintenance Manuals
Telescopic Fork (Retro)
Brembo Caliper on Left Side
Floating Rotor Disc
Rubber Brake Line
Caution: The maintenance manuals for Patrol, Gear-Up and Tourist
show figures that may not indicate the correct year or model.
Ural Changes and Upgrades for Brembo Brakes:
Timeline
Brembo Fixed Disc
Introduced to Front Brake
(non-floating disc)
Floating Disc on Retro/Troyka
Front Brake
Brembo Floating Disc on All Models
(IMZ-8.1037-08001-08 Leading Link
Fork Assembly)
NG-Manufactured Disc,
Still using Brembo Caliper
time
2003
2004
2005
Ural Engine Increased Engine
from 650cc to 750cc
2006
2007
Paoli Fork Introduced
2008
2009
2010
2011
Steel Flex-Braid
Brake Line Introduced
‘06 and Earlier Urals with Disc Brakes Use
Same Fork as Early Drum Brake Units
(IMZ-8.103-08001 Leading Link Fork Assembly)
Brembo Fixed Disc
(IMZ-8.1037-08001 Leading Link Fork Assembly)
Brembo full-floating disc proved more than capable of stopping
the 700-plus pound bike (along with rider and passenger) with ease.
Disc Brake Evolution on Urals
• 2011 Patrol / Gear-Up
• Steel-Braid Hydraulic Line
• 2009 Ural Gear-Up /
Tourist / Patrol / Wolf
• 2010 Patrol
• Newer Steel-Braid Hydraulic Line
Flexible-Braid
Brake Line
• 2009 Ural-T
Floating Disc
(Note Rivets)
Marzocchi Telescopic Fork on sT
• 2010 Solo sT (solo tour)
Disc Brakes (2000 How Stuff Works)
• Disc Brake Similar to Brakes on a Bicycle
–Bicycle Brakes Have Caliper, which Squeeze Brake Pads against Wheel
–Motorcycle Disc Brake Pads Squeeze Rotor instead of Wheel
–Force Transmitted Hydraulically, Instead of thru a Wire Cable
–Friction between Pads and Disc Slows Disc Down
Ural’s Floating (two-piece)
Rotor
(
• Two Types of Motorcycle Brake Discs: Fixed (2003-2006) & Floating (2007+)
• Fixed Brake Disc (introduced on 2003 Urals)
–One Piece Disc
• Brake Pad Contact Face and Wheel Mounting Face All Part of Same Piece of Metal
–Relatively Inexpensive to Produce
–Perform Perfectly Well
–If Subjected to Serious, Possibly Unable to Dilate or Expand
• Floating Brake Disc (introduced on 2007 Urals)
–Constructed in Two Parts
• Aluminum Center Part Fixed to Motorcycle Wheel and Stainless Rotor
–When Rotor Subjected to Serious Heat, It Expands
–By Allowing It to Float Separately from the Mounting Face, It Is Free to Expand and Shrink at Will
without Being Constrained by Its Mounting
–Expansion Takes Place in All Directions at Once and Not Constrained
• If you prevent this from happening in one direction (by fixing it on its mounting face) it has no
choice but to warp, so floating discs are made in two parts to allow the discs to expand and
prevent them from warping. This is mainly a high performance type brake disc.
• Which is better?
–Fixed disc is much better for high-performance braking. For daily driving, floating disc is good. And
why most car manufacturers prefer floating discs? Becuase these are easier to design and fabricate,
thus lower manufacturing costs.
–Floating rotors are two piece rotors that has the hub and the disc joined by bolts. That way you can
have lightweight alloys for the hub and a different compound/fabrication for the disc and have the
best of both worlds. Also heat dissipates faster in floating rotors, why I'm not sure.
–The main complain about floating rotors is that they're much louder than normal rotors because
they're two-piece, thus allowing more noise to be eminate when the disc "vibrate" under braking.
The floating disc heats up more uniformly, and the controlled float which is
present allows for the differential expansion of the hot disc,
and the relatively cool aluminum bell. This allows the disc to be used
under severe conditions without having a detrimental effect.
Bembo Directional Brakes
• Are Brembo Calipers Directional?
–Brembo's calipers are directional, due to the use of differential piston sizes (30/40 mm).
The leading pistons are smaller in diameter in order to combat uneven wear of the brake
pads. Upon close examination of the caliper, you will find a small arrow cast in place
which denotes the direction of disc rotation. Additionally, when mounted on the vehicle,
the bleed screw must be at the top of the caliper.
• Brembo Brakes in Australia
–The disc brake is one of the reasons that sidecar Urals cannot be sold in Australia.
Certifying engineers, DOTARS and the various state and territory rego authorities all
take a rather dim view of brake components rubbing or bending when applied in reverse.
And when that then ceases to allow the front brake to work in the forward direction, it is
referred to as a catastrophic failure. Now, while putting a warning in the owner's manual
not to use the front brake in reverse may work in Europe, the USA and Canada, it doesn't
cut it here for a vehicle fitted with a reverse gear in Australia.
(http://bcozz.multiply.com/journal/item/345)
2010 Catalog Hydraulic Disc Brakes (uralnwco.ipower.com)
650/750 cc
2010
Item #
Part #
Description
Quantity
1
IMZ-8.1238-27003
Master Cylinder Assembly (Brembo 10.4620.79)
1
Component: 2218.20.00 (650/750)
Brake Stop-Light Switch
1
IMZ-8.1037-17048-2007
Brake Stop-Light Switch (Brembo 10.4761.61)
1
IMZ-8.1037-17048-EU
Brake Stop-Light Switch italian for European wire harness 2007
1
IMZ-8.1037-17048-2009
Brake Stop-Light Switch
1
Component: 3040.04.00 (650/750
Lever
1
2
IMZ-8.1238-27005-01
Caliper (Brembo 20.6800.10)
1
3
IMZ-8.1037-27015
Front Brake Hose, Rubber (2003-2007)
1
3
IMZ-8.1037-27016 (650/750)
Front Brake Hose, Rubber
1
or 3A
IMZ-8.1037-27015-08
Steel-Flex Brake Line (2008+)
1
4
IMZ-8.1238-27097
Brake Pads (Brembo 107.6708.10)
Kit of 2 Pads
or 4A
EBC pads
EBC Brake Pads
Kit of 2 Pads
5
IMZ-8.125-27228
Adapter
1
6
IMZ-8.1037-27187
Coupling Bolt (Banjo Fitting)
2
7
IMZ-8.1037-27186
Sealing Washer
4
7
10284460 (650/750)
Sealing Washer
8
8
IMZ-8.1037-27001-01
Brembo Hydraulic Brake Assembly
1
Front Disc Brake Part Evolution
• 2006-2007
• #7 Wheel Hub: IMZ-8.1037-06020-10
• #8 Front Brake Rotor: IMZ-8.1037-06026
(Not Available - Upgrade to Brembo item 8A and 8B)
• #8A Front brake rotor IMZ-8.1037-06026-10
(from 2007 (Brembo))
• #8B Brembo Brake Adapter IMZ-8.1037-06132
(Used to mount Brembo Rotor)
• #20 Screw M8x16 200299-P27C
• 2008-2010
• #7 Wheel Hub: IMZ-8.1037-06020-10
• #8 Front Brake Rotor: IMZ-8.1037-06026-10
(Brembo 08.4899.72)
• #20 Screw M8x16 DIN 6912 M8x16
• #21 Rotor Spacer (Intermediate Bushing):
IMZ-8.1037-06132-10
Ural Hydraulic Disc Brakes
(Уральский гидравлические дисковые тормоза)
• Hydraulic Disk Brakes
–Master Cylinder, Located on Right Side of Steering Handlebar
–Hydraulic Fluid Hose, Connecting the Master Cylinder to the Brake Caliper
–Brake Disk, Bolted on the Front Wheel Hub
Caliper Piston (Cup)
Right-Hand Brake Lever
Hydraulic Brake Line
Front Brake Master Brake Cylinder (BMC): Brembo Model PS13 (10.4620.79)
(www.oppracing.com)
Brake Lever
Brake Hose
Banjo Fitting
(Coupling Bolt)
Lever to Master Cylinder
Fluid Reservoir
Handlebar Bracket
Reservoir
Fluid Level
Viewing Window
Brembo SKU #’s:
Lever: 110.4372.13
Lever Pin: 110.2798.50
Clamp: 110.4372.13
Cap: 110.4308.60
Inlet: 110.2706.50
Micro-Switch: 110.4418.13
The Brembo part number is stamped on the bottom of the master
cylinder reservoir, where the final two numbers indicate the piston diameter.
Front Brake Light Switch (www.f2motorcycles.ltd.uk)
• Brake Light Micro-Switch for Disc Brake
–Ural 750’s Fitted with Brembo Disc Front Brake
–Two Slightly Different Types
• 2003-2008
–IMZ-8.1037-17048-2007 (Discontinued in favor of a pressure switch on a
banjo fitting)
–f2Motorcycles: F23307/TO 2007
–Brembo Part #: 110.4418.14 (switch is soldered into the harness a couple
of inches from the switch, so you'll be splicing into the harness)
–Most Switch Vendors List Distance between Mounting Holes, the one that
fits is 10 mm, center-to-center.
–IMZ-8.1037-17048-EU: Brake Switch, Italian, for European Wire Harness
2007
• 2009-201X
–IMZ-8.1037-17048-2009
–f2Motorcycles: F23307/AFTER 2007
–Brembo Part #: 10.4671.61
Brembo Front Brake Micro-Switch (www.oppracing.com)
• Brembo 110.4418.13
• List Price: $12.43
Brembo Fixed Caliper
P4 30/34 F (Brembo Part #: 20.6800.10)
• Fixed Caliper: 6800 Series
• Four Opposed Pistons (2 x 30mm + 2 x 34mm dia.)
• Pads Supported by Two Pins
• Material: Cast Aluminum Body
Rear of Motorcycle
Brembo Part #’
#’s:
Bleeder Screw: 105.3246.14
Dust Cover: 105.1502.10
Retainers: 105.4542.18
Pin/Retainer: 120.3942.30
Pad Spring: 120.2255.90
Front of Motorcycle
Two PadPad-Retaining Pins
Bleeder Valve
30 mm dia.
dia. Piston
65 mm Mounting Distance
34 mm dia.
dia. Piston
17 mm Mounting Bolts
It Appears that Ural Mounts (Left- and Right-Hand) Disc
Direction backwards from Brembo Recommendation??
Hydraulic Brake Caliper and Brake Hose
(downloads.imz-ural.com)
• Caliper Parts:
#1 Front Brake Caliper: Brembo 20.6800.10
#4 Brake Hose Assy: AMP1165
#12 Bolt М10-1,25-6q х40 201682-P27C 4 each
#14 Adapter: IMZ-8.125-27228
#18 Sealing Washer: 10284460 7 each
#20 Washer 10L: 252156-Р27С 2 each
Banjo Fitting
(coupling Bolt)
Disc Brake and Hydraulic Line Inspection
• Check Disc Brake Pads Every Service Interval
–Disc Brakes Do Not Require Adjustment
–Brake Pads Inspected by Removing Dust Shield from Top of Caliper and Check
the Thickness of the Pads
–Pads Replaced when Less than 1/8” of Pad Remaining on Either Pad
• Check Brake Hose Every Service Interval
–Brake Hose Inspected for Leaks and Cracks along Length of Hose
–WARNING: Never Use Any Aftermarket Brake Hose for Front Brake. Use Only
Genuine Ural Brake Hoses. Could Result in Front Brake Failure and Void the
Warranty.
–Check Banjo Fittings on Either End
• 2008: Steel-Braided Brake Hoses
–Stainless Brake Line - BIG Difference! (sovietsteeds.com) Rougaroo
–Far Superior to Rubber Flex Lines
–Brake Is Way More Responsive
–With Stainless, There Is No Sponginess At All
Early Rubber Brake Hose for Disc Brake
(www.ural-zentrale.de)
• Product No.: S2073-S
• Manufacturer: SASIC FRANCE
• Length: 96 cm
• Pressed-on 10 mm Banjo Fittings with Protecting Tube
• List Price: 11.89 EUR
Later Steel-Braided Brake Line (www.sovietsteeds.com)
Banjo Fittings
A Banjo fitting comprises a perforated hollow bolt and spherical union for fluid
transfer, commonly found in automotive fuel, oil and hydraulic brake systems.
The name stems from the shape of the fitting, having a large circular section
connected to a thinner pipe, generally similar to the shape of a banjo.
Brake Reservoir (Service Manual)
• Check Brake Reservoir Every Service Interval
–try to get the master cylinder as level as possible (you might want to do this
before you remove the cover)
–Wipe off all dirt and avoid any contamination of the brake fluid in the reservoir
–remove the two top screws on the reservoir
–Remove the cover and the rubber gasket
–Fill the reservoir to within 1/4 inch of the top with only DOT approved 3 or 4
brake fluid
–Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the paint, as damage to the paint may
occur
–Squeeze the brake lever several times to ensure that any air that has been
introduced is forced out of the system.
–Replace Rubber Gasket, Cover and Two Screws
• Bleeding the Brake Line after the hose has been replaced
–Remove Cover as Above
–squeeze the brake handle while at the same time, open the bleeder on the
brake caliper.
–When the lever goes all the way in, close the bleeder, release the lever and do
it again (and again, etc) until you get no more air bubbles from the bleeder.
–Don't let your master cylinder run low or you'll have to start from scratch.
You may want a helper!
Brake Fluid: DOT 3, 4 and 5 (www.cyclebrakes.com)
• All Brembo Braking Products Use Natural, Rubber-Base Seals
–USE ONLY DOT-3/4 NON-SILICONE Type Fluids such as CASTROLTM 'LMA'
–INCOMPATIBLE with DOT-5 Silicone-Based Brake Fluids
–DOT- 5 SILICONE-based Fluids React with Natural-Rubber Seals to Swell Them
• CAN CAUSE SEVERE PISTON RETRACTION PROBLEMS
• No cure for problems caused by DOT-5, other than complete seal
replacement
• The cap on the rectangular master cylinders says "DOT 3 - 5 Fluids“
–Silicone DOT- 5 fluids are NOT generally in use in Europe, but Glycol-based
"DOT-5.1" fluids ARE.
–Hence, the "DOT-5" cap designation
• For best braking performance, we recommend changing brake fluid twice a year.
If the machine is to be stored in a damp environment (over the winter, say), we
recommend installing fresh fluid before and after the storage period. At minimum
service levels, glycol brake fluids MUST be completely changed at intervals not
to exceed a period of 18 months.
• DOT-4 has a higher boiling point than #3
–Probably only an issue when REALLY heating up the brakes
–DOT-3 will get it done fine on a Ural
• Dot 3 will slowly attack British brake rubber
• Dot 4 is compatible with British brake rubber parts
• Dot 5 is silicone brake fluid
EBC Double-H Sintered Metal Brake Pads: FA244HH
• Folks Start Replacing Pads between 10 and 15 kms
• Brake Friction Surfaces (disc rotor) Should Be Good for Life of the Motorcycle
and/or Owner, whichever comes first.
• IMZ's Part Number for Brake Pad Set: IMZ-8.1238-27097
• Less Expensive, Fully-Reliant EBC Replacement is FA244HH
–HH Rated: Highest friction rating
• Double-H Became Standard by Which All Brake Pads Are Judged
• Double-H pads claimed their name from the industry standard gauge for
measuring friction levels on brake pads
• Grades of brake pads range from E,F,G through to H rating, each grade
being a 20% step up in friction delivery
–Double H: H rated cold and H rated when hot
–Long-Lasting and Powerful Brake Effect, Do Not Fade
–Fits Brembo 20.6800.10/20 4-piston (two-pin pad fixing) Calipers
Holes for Pad-Retaining
Pins on Calipers
High-friction, Double-H sintered pads offer the maximum brake effect
and a lifetime approximately double that of any organic pad.
EBC Carbon Graphite (Organic) Brake Pads: FA244
• Typical Organic "feel" which Many Riders Prefer
• Ideal for general use with low rotor damage characteristics
• Environmentally friendly, free of asbestos, lead and other toxic materials
• Pads for Leisure / Sport Use
· Lowest heat generation
· Good for fast, dry, riding
· Optimum 280 mm size Rotors
• The EBC Kevlar series has now been renamed NAO series or NonAsbestos Organic, although the famous DuPont Kevlar fiber is still used
in conjunction with other high-tech fibers that have come on the market.
Replacing Front Disk Brake Pads (www.sovietsteeds.com)
• 2005 Patrol
• Started to Hear Metal Squeal Sound and Feel Brake Fade.
1. Drape an Old Towel under Front Brake Fluid Container or Master Cylinder by the
Handlebars, because Some Fluid Will Come Out
2. Remove Two Small Cir-Clips with Needle-Nose Pliers, that are into the Holding
Pins (2) by Front Brake Pads. Holding Pins Have to Be Rotated until Cir-Clips
Are Exposed from under the Side of the Dust Cover. At the End of the Holding
Pins Is a Squared-Off End for a Place to Grab Them. Once Removed, Pull Out
the Holding Pins. These Pins Go thru the Eyelets of the Brake Pads and thru the
Brass-Looking Dust Cover on Top. (DO NOT TRY AND PRY THE BRASS DUST
COVER OFF! You'll destroy it. That dust cover is held in place by the holding
pins.) Make Note that the Dust Cover Has an Arrow On It. That Arrow Points
towards the Bike/Engine, Looking at It from the Front of the Bike.
3. Remove Cover from Brake Fluid Master Cylinder. DO NOT PUMP THE FRONT
BRAKE LEVER WITH THE MASTER CYLINDER COVER OFF! Or You Will Get a
Fountain of Brake Fluid all over.
4. Remove Old Brake Pads
Replacing Front Disk Brake Pads (www.sovietsteeds.com)
5. Look Down at Four Pucks that Engage the
Pads. If Pads Are Shot, the Pucks Are in
Towards the Brake Rotor pretty good.
6. Take Expander Tool (Harbor Freight for $7),
Primarily Used for Removal of Rubber Hoses,
but Works Great for Spreading Out the Pucks.
When Pucks Are Expanded, the Fluid in the
Master Cylinder Starts to Rise. Some Fluid
Will Overflow. Because the New Pads Are
Thick, They Require that the Pucks Are
Spread Out or Re-Tracked as Much as
Possible to Fit In the New Pads.
7. Once Pucks Are Spread, Put In the New Pads.
To Get the Eyelets (2 on each pad) to Line-Up
with the Brake Pad Mounts for the Holding
Pins to Go Back In, Use a Small Ice-Pick to
Go thru the Brake Mount Hole on the the InBoard Side of the Mount, Hold Up the New
Brake Pad on the In-Board Side, Put the Dust
Cover Back in Place over the Pads and Rotor,
and Put Back in the Holding Pins.
8. Once the two holding pins are in which go
through the two new pads and through the
dust cover, I put back in the two retaining cir
clips. One for each holding pins. Then I
turned the holding pins to hide the top of the
cir clips under the brass dust cover.
Shot after 15,000 km's
Replacing Front Disk Brake Pads (www.sovietsteeds.com) cont.
9. Once all assembled, I put the master cylinder cover back on. Then I pumped the
front brake lever till I felt it regain action. Then I took the master cylinder cover
back off and put a little Dot 4 brake fluid (On newer Urals, older Urals I believe
use Dot 3) to make up for lost fluid. Put the Master cylinder cover back on. Then
I took her for a spin in my neighborhood and tested several times. According to
Brembo instructions, the pads should be run in for about 25 mikes or so,
meaning that I should go easy on them, but confidently use them till they
burnish in. When I first went around the block, I made several stops and went
back home, the rotor was very hot to the touch. But after another ride of about 2
miles they were not as hot, so the new pads are sitting right against the rotor
when new. As I run her she should settle out.
10. Another thing I do is when the pucks are out, I spray em with WD40 and scrub
off the grime with a soft bristle toothbrush. Rinse with brake-clean, and rehydrate the rubber seals with a protectant.
The tool is for rubber hose removal but works great for spreading brake pucks.
Re-Build of Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com)
• Brembo Kit for Brake Master Cylinder: SKU or part number of kit from
Yoyodyne: 110.4362.50 cost: $18.27 (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=110.4362.50)
BMC re-build kit on left and master
cylinder to the right.
All the component needed plus the
lubricant that came with the kit. Note
the O-ring, seal (white), & seal
retaining ring (silver)...these go into
the BMC bore.
Re-Build of Brembo Brake Master Cylinder on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com) cont.
1. Remove all fasteners securing the brake hose to the rig
2. Drain all the brake fluid out, including the caliper
3. Loosen banjo bolts
4. Detached the Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) from the handle bar. Since I will be rebuilding
the caliper, I loosened the caliper banjo bolt too, then I removed the whole front disc
brake system.
5. Separate BMC and Caliper from Brake Hose (make sure you do not loose copper
washers). Now you may proceed to work on it from a workbench.
6. Take the brake lever out and set it aside.
7. Remove the pin, dust cover, & plunger assembly. All you have left in the BMC cavity are
the seal retaining ring, seal and O-ring.
Remove nut and pin to separate
lever from BMC
New parts on left and used parts
on right. Seal retaining ring,
seal, & o-ring still in BMC
Re-Build of Brembo Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com) cont.
8. Carefully remove (pry with a small screw driver or dental pick) the seal and
retaining ring. Then you’ll have clear access to remove the O-ring.
9. Clean the BMC using your favorite brake cleaner.
10. Check the bore to make sure it is not damaged, gouged, or pitted. Use an ultra
fine sandpaper and gently remove any burrs you may have left from the
disassembly. Clean it again (repeat #9).
11. Using the Brembo provided lubricant, carefully assemble the items in the kit to
the BMC .…O-ring, the seal, then the seal retaining ring. Find a suitable drift to
install the retaining ring carefully.
Items still in the BMC. You have to
carefully remove these parts out. DO
NOT DAMAGE the bore of the BMC.
Should look like this when installed.
Re-Build of Brembo Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com) cont.
• …Assemble the spring & stop, install the brass washer onto the piston (aka
plunger), the small rubber seal, then the spring/stop assembly.
…Carefully insert lubricated piston assembly into the bore.
…Place the dust seal and using the plunger pin, carefully install the lever/bolt
and use the lever to push in & hold the assembly in place while you work the
dust seal around to install it. Tricky operation but you’ll get it.
12. Install the BMC to the handle bar. If all you’re rebuilding is the BMC, put in
your brake fluid of choice (DOT3 or 4) and bleed the brake system. Didn’t put in
the brake fluid yet because I was going to rebuild the caliper too. My preference
is DOT4 because I think it’s less hydroscopic than DOT3.
The damaged plunger seal on my Ural's BMC. That was
the reason why the BMC could not build pressure to
activate the caliper pistons. I think the piece is lodged
inside the brake hose and blocks the fluid from
releasing the pistons causing the front brake to "hang
up". Note: I'm just showing the damaged seal...cup side
of seal should be facing towards the banjo end of BMC
Notice the clipped piece
from the seal...
Seal Repair Kit for Brembo Caliper on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com)
• Seal Repair Kit from Yoyodyne: YB3034 ~$50
1. Drain All Brake Fluid from Brake master Cylinder (BMC) and Caliper (you need
to change the fluid anyways)
2. Remove Caliper from the Rig. Do Not Remove the Hose Attachment from the
BMC End, unless you're Re-Building the Master Cylinder too.
3. With Caliper Out, Place It on Work bench, Remove the Brake Pads. Use the Ural
Air-Pump with the Pointed Attachment that Came with the Pump. Place a piece
of corrugated cardboard between the brake pistons and give the handle a swift
pump. The pistons will come out but they may or may not pop out completely.
The cardboard will prevent the pistons from banging against each other. You
can also use rags. You can use compressed air but dial the air pressure way
down so the pistons do not come flying out. Watch out because there may be
some residual fluid in the bore.
Ural air pump attached to the caliper
Close up...notice the Ural-supplied
pointed attachment
Seal Repair Kit for Brembo Caliper on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com) cont.
4. Using a #40 torx bit, Remove the 4 Bolts that Attaches the Two Halves Together.
Again Take Care not to ding the pistons or mating surface.
5. Carefully separate the two halves and remove the pistons...again take care in
removing them.
#40 Torx bit
Note the 4 bolts securing the Brembo
caliper halves
Two of the pistons...there are four
(2) 30mm & (2) 34mm pistons
Seal Repair Kit for Brembo Caliper on 2007 Patrol
by URAL CT, Plano, TX (sovietsteeds.com) cont.
6. Remove one O-ring and the old seals from the caliper using a dental pick or any
suitable tool. Do not damage the bore. Replace them with the new seals, two
per bore. Pay attention to the size, one bore is 30 mm & the other is 34 mm.
7. Wet the pistons with brake fluid and carefully align a piston to the proper bore
and push in to seat. Alignment is critical for ease of installation.
8. Assembly of the two halves is the reverse. Securely tighten all 4 bolts. Install
caliper to the rig. BTW, I used this pin set to clear the small openings from the
brake master cylinder. There are 2 small holes on the reservoir.
Here's a pix of the set
of new seals and an
O-ring. Wet them
with brake fluid
before installation
Pin set used to clean the
small openings in the carb
too.
Note that the bottom seal is thicker
than the top (wiper) seal.
Repair Kit has 4 pistons (2) 30mm & (2) 34mm, 4 seals, 4 scraper seals, & 1 O-ring.
Brembo-Recommended Brake Bleeding Procedures
(www.cyclebrakes.com)
1.Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh, specified brake fluid from a sealed container.
Operate the master cylinder lever SLOWLY several times to fill the brake circuits and
begin to expel air from them.
2.Connect a transparent plastic tube (of appropriate bore for a leakproof fit) to the caliper
bleed valve, placing the free end in a brake-fluid-proof container. Position the bleed tube
so that it rises above the bleed valve for a few inches (to allow a fluid head above the
bleed valve exit) before descending into the container.
3.Operate the brake lever 3 - 4 times, keeping it pulled in on the last stroke. Loosen the
caliper bleed valve enough to allow fluid and purged air (seen as bubbles in the fluid) to
enter the attached tube. Close the bleed valve. Repeat this operation several times while
maintaining a sufficient fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. With each cycle of
bleeding, the lever should meet with more resistance, indicating that the air is being
removed from the system (there should also be progressively fewer bubbles in the purged
fluid in the tube). If conditions are ideal, satisfactory lever resistance should be attained at
the point no more bubbles are observable in the purged fluid in the tube.
4.Occasionally, a system will still have "spongy" lever even though no more air can be
found in the purged fluid. This indicates air is still trapped in some part or parts of the
circuit, and must be removed. The following methods will help to free the trapped air and
complete the bleeding process:
(a) Making sure the reservoir is filled and capped, lean the machine so the reservoir is
positioned above the master cylinder outlet, then give the lever several short, quick
strokes. This gives the residual air a less- interrupted upwards path towards the reservoir,
and out of the line. Return the machine to the upright position, rap the calipers sharply
with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle, manipulate the flex lines and repeat. If this
doesn't quite correct the problem, let the machine sit overnight and repeat the next day. In
most cases, this should give an air-free final bleed. Be sure the reservoir is filled to the
correct level after final bleeding.
(b) In the case of master cylinders mounted on clip-on bars with a steep angle, it may be
difficult to lean the machine sufficiently to position the reservoir above the master cylinder
outlet. In this case it will be necessary to bleed the fitting at the high point (i.e. the master
cylinder outlet).
Bleeding Brembo Brake System (Brembo Brake Catalog)
http://www.cyclebrakes.com/Brembo_catalog.pdf
• To bleed the brakes proceed as follows:
–Turn the handlebar until the top edge of the reservoir is horizontal.
–Fill the reservoir with brake fluid ;
• During bleeding avoid letting the brake fluid level go below the MIN level.
–Apply the brakes several times to fill the braking system partially.
–Insert a flexible transparent tube to the bleed screw.
–Bleed through one bleed screw at a time:
• Pull the brake lever all the way and keep it in this position;
• Unscrew the bleed screw, let some brake fluid flow out (initially only air will
come out) and then tighten the bleed screw (lightly);
• Let go of the brake lever, wait a few seconds and repeat the above steps
until no air bubbles come out of the bleed screw;
–Tighten the bleed screw to the prescribed torque and fill up the reservoir with
brake fluid.
–Verify that there are no leaks from the various fittings and connections. If the
braking system has been bled properly, following the lever dead travel, you will
feel the direct action of the fluid without any sponginess; if this is not so,
repeat the bleeding procedure.
• Notes: If the lever seems too elastic following the bleeding procedure, proceed in
the following manner:
–Remove one brake pad from a caliper.
–Apply the brakes several times so as to push-out the pistons about 3 - 4 mm.
–Push back the pistons (avoid damaging the rotor and the pistons).
–Put the brake pad back into the caliper.
–Repeat the above steps on the other(s) pad(s) and/or caliper(s).
–Verify whether brake lever travel has improved.
Ural (Урал) 2001-2004
The front brake-light switch is placed in parallel with the rear brake-light switch.
2010 Ural Schematic
The front brake-light switch remains the same over the years.
Disk Brake System (www.ural-zentrale.de)
• Product #: S2073
• List Price: 275 EUR
• Disk brake conversion kit for all models
• Brake disc is simple plugged in the wheel splines
• Delivered with brake disk with flange, mounting and cover, brake calliper
with brake pads, hydraulic hoses with fittings, master cylinder with lever
and bolts.
• Caution: Caliper bracket has to be welded on the fork or swing-arm.
Suitable only for experienced DIY mechanics!
Disc Brake Conversion for Dnepr Front Wheel:
Christian's Dneprseiten (dnepr.at/e/tech_26.htm)
• Dnepr Front Drum Brake Not Made for Panic Braking
• The Conversion :
–Front Wheel Yamaha SR500 (also possible: XS650)
–Two Brake Discs SR500 diameter = 298mm (or XS1100)
–Brake Pliers and Pump Yamaha XS850 (identically XS1100)
–Steel-Flex Hose without Distributors Directly to the Pump
–Taper Roller Bearing for the Steering
–Bearings at the Front Wheel Were Changed to 20mm inner diameter, an Appropriate
Spacer Was Made
–Disc Brake Lugs Made of Steel Plates (5mm) on Roller Bearings Situated on the Axle
Fluid Reservoir
Dual Hydraulic Brake Lines
Dual Front Wheel Discs
Three-Wheel Disc Brake Conversion
(dnepr.at/e/ga_monega.htm)
• Based on Dnepr
• Disc Brakes on All Three Wheels (Brembo d'Or – Gold Brembo)
–Quick-Locking Mechanisms for Hydraulics
–Adapters from Full Aluminum, etc.
• Foot Brake Pedal Operates the Side Car - and Rear Wheel AND a Small Caliper
behind the front caliper
• Real Integral Brake Assembly with Full Exchangeability of Wheels
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