Weller Racing Genuine Turbo Kit

Weller Racing Genuine Turbo Kit
WELLER RACING TURBO KIT
Yamaha YXZ1000R
Step 1. Remove Rear Fenders.
Remove the rear fender
lower front bolts using a
10mm socket
Remove the rear fender
middle front bolts using a
10mm socket
Remove the rear fender
upper bolts using a 5mm
allen
Remove the rear fender
brackets using a 10mm
socket.
Remove the rear fender
upper fasteners using a flat
blade screwdriver.
Remove the rear fender
lower bolts using a 4mm
allen socket.
Remove fender
Fenders removed
Step 2. Remove cage. ***Cage pictured is after market.
Remove the rear cage
bolts using a 14mm
socket, 14mm wrench
Remove the b-pillar cage
bolts using a 14mm
socket, 6mm allen
Remove the front cage
bolts using a 14mm
socket, 14mm wrench
Step 3. Remove Bed.
Remove the center battery
cover. Pull up from the back.
Remove the bed front
fasteners using a flat blade
screwdriver.
Remove the bed screws
using a 27mm torx socket
Remove the air filter / oil tank
inspection cover. ¼ turn
fastener.
Remove the bed front inner
bolts using a 10mm socket
Remove the lower oil tank
shroud using a10mm socket
Step 4: Remove Intake / Airbox
Air box assembly
Remove the rear airbox
mount using a 10mm socket
Remove the oil tank shroud
Remove bed
Remove the front airbox
mounting bolt using a10mm
socket and long extension.
Don’t drop it!
Loosen the 3 throttle body
boots using a 4mm allen
socket
Unplug the air injection valve
connector.
Remove the rear air injection
plate from engine using a
5mm socket.
Remove the front air injection
plate from engine using a
5mm socket.
Remove the air injection
actuator from the mount.
Slide it out of the 2 prongs. Zip
tie up connector (not used
anymore.)
Remove ½” Idle control hose
off of the throttle bodies
located above the
thermostat housing (just pull it
off if you cant get it loose).
Remove the intake air temp
sensor located in the airbox.
Remove sensor for later step.
Remove hose to valve cover
breather.
Remove airbox.
Step 5. Remove Throttle Bodies
Cut the 2 zip ties off of the
harness holding it to the fuel
rail.
Remove all connectors off of
the throttle bodies & set aside
(injectors, TPS, 2x pressure
sensors, coils, IAC motor).
Remove fuel rail fitting (slide
cap out and push in on both
sides, then pull off).
Move valve cover breather
line out of the way.
Loosen the 3 top boot
clamps holding throttle
bodies on. Use a 4mm allen
socket
Lift up on throttle bodies,
separating them from the
boots.
Cut the zip tie in front of
header that is holding the
throttle cable tight to the
harness.
Hold butterfly open with your
finger and turn brass cable
end counter clockwise, then
pull out with pliers.
Remove brass cable end.
Don’t lose it! Un-screw cable
from housing using 8mm
wrench.
Remove throttle bodies and
set on bench.
Position the throttle bodies so
that you can access the
throttle cable cover. Remove
the cover w/ 3mm allen
socket.
Step 6: Remove Exhaust
Loosen muffler to header
clamp. Use a 10mm socket.
Remove the 4 bolts holding
the muffler to the frame. Use
a 14mm socket.
Remove the 6 nuts holding
the header to the head. Use
a 12mm socket (a long
extension works good, too).
Remove the header.
Remove the 2 bolts holding
lower muffler bracket in. Use
a 14mm socket.
Remove rear brake line from
clamp using small
screwdriver. Then remove
bracket.
Turn muffler upside down and
remove from the rear. Be
patient, as this can take
some moving around to get it
out.
As you are finishing pulling it
out, rotate the muffler to
clear the frame.
Step 7: Install new plenum on throttle bodies.
Remove the 2 bolts and
spacers holding the fuel rail
on. Use an 8mm socket.
Separate fuel rail with
injectors from the throttle
bodies. Make sure the seals
stay on the injectors.
Install 3 o-rings in the new
plenum. Use some type of oring lube such as grease,
etc…
Wipe the surface and install
the new plenum on throttle
bodies. Be careful not to
pinch or unseat the o-rings.
Push down on the plenum
evenly to fully seat to the
throttle bodies.
Re-use the 2 bolts removed
and use 2 new spacers
provided with the kit.
Re-install fuel rail, new
spacers, and re-use bolts. Use
Loctite and torque to 5 ft/lbs.
Flip over and install “L”
bracket. Remove the factory
long bolt and install the
supplied long bolt so that the
bolts don’t hit each other.
Step 8: Install header manifold.
Replace both outer cylinder
inner studs with shorter ones
provided. Short side goes in
the head.
Make sure that the 3 original
gaskets stay in the head.
These will get re-used.
Barely install manifold and
start the 2 short stud nuts first.
Finish installing manifold and
tighten all 6 bolts.
Slightly loosen 6 bolts so turbo
housing can spin with slight
pressure.
Install all 4 fittings in the turbo
(using thread tape) on the 2
coolant fittings and 1 lower
drain fitting.
Install turbo using V-band
clamp and the return line into
engine. Next, tighten turbo
housing bolts.
Step 9: Install turbo.
Install 2-hole drain fitting in
bottom of turbo. Use gasket
and 2 bolts supplied. Tighten.
Install -4 AN fitting w/ new
copper washer into head.
Install turbo supply line.
Install the 2 coolant lines and
turbo oil supply line as shown.
Step 10: Install throttle bodies.
Re-install cable end, cable,
and cover. Use 3mm allen
socket to tighten allen bolts.
Install new pressure / temp
sensor supplied with Power
Commander. Use Loctite.
Install throttle bodies back
into boots and tighten boots.
Make sure they are seated all
the way.
Install all connectors and new
Power Commander at this
time.
Remove the intake air temp
from the old airbox and ziptie
it to the harness after
plugging in.
Plug in the new pressure / air
temp sensor installed in the
plenum.
Ziptie all wiring to secure it so
it can withstand everything
you’re going to put it
through!
Install the fuel line. Slide
orange safety clip over after
install.
Loctite the 4 bolts and install
the covers.
Torque to 7 ft/lbs using a
5mm allen socket.
Step 11: Install air injection block off plates.
Remove both front and rear
reed valves.
Shave off the 3 high points so
cover sits flush (we used a
grinding wheel to do this).
Step :12 Install Exhaust
Install stainless mid pipe to
turbo. Use a high temp
silicone and the allen bolts
supplied.
Allen bolts and lock washers
pictured.
Install supplied bracket with
factory bolts removed.
Install mufflers and brackets
as shown. Use rubber
insulators between the strap
and the mufflers.
Install o-ring in lower plenum.
Install intercooler (make sure
that sealing the o-ring is your
#1 priority here).
Install V-band clamp
supplied. Make sure collars
are lined up perfectly. Snug,
but allow intercooler to pivot.
Tighten after all connected.
Step :13 Install Intercooler
Loosely install cross tube using
2 hose clamps.
Install rubber mounts and
bolts supplied. Loctite and
tighten.
Install the O-ring into the
turbo feed fitting.
Install coupler on fitting and
line up with turbo (a rubber
mallet can be used to clock
the turbo housing for
alignment).
Loctite and tighten bolts,
then tighten hose clamps
after aligned.
Install fitting and hose in the
fitting just installed. Use
thread sealer on the threads.
Install as shown.
Connect hose to waste gate
actuator as shown.
Run 2 wires to the fans as
shown.
Mount Power Commander
and Auto Tune as shown.
Connect O2 sensor and run
wires to fuse box ignition
power.
Locate fuse box. Using
supplied fuse tap, connect
the fans and Auto Tune to
key on power. Ground to
battery.
Step 14: Install Breathers / Lines
Re-install valve cover vent
line.
Install 1/2” supplied line to
throttle body fitting for idle air
control valve. Route up by oil
tank breather.
Install breather filters as
shown.
Step 15: Install Bed / Air Filter
Trim bed to fit around
intercooler as shown (a cut
off wheel works good for this).
Use a 4” holesaw to cut a
Install intake tube and air filter
hole for the air filter on the left
as shown. Tighten clamps.
side of the bed. Center for
best results.
Congratulations you have just installed your turbo kit made by Weller Racing and Race Proven Motors!
Top view of air filter. You must
leave the factory (big screw
on) lid off for engine to
breathe!
If you setup your POD-300 display to display AFR and pressure, that works the best. The pressure will be your boost. 14 will be your non
boost display, so 15 would be 1 psi, 16 = 2 psi, and so on. We expect you to call us when the kit is installed to walk you through a
couple of checks before you scream it down the street. Example: make sure boost is set correctly to 6 psi (20 on display) / AFR is 12:1
or lower (richer) under boost. Don’t hesitate to call or email us!!!
Our kits are constantly in testing mode to stay ahead of the game. Currently, this kit has been tested and proven at 6 PSI running 110
octane race gas. We are currently testing this kit on 91 octane pump gas and will have settings for that soon. We strongly
recommend that you run race gas until we conclude our testing. Check back with us for details. We also program the factory ECU inhouse, which allows us to remove the top speed limiter and any other function you may need.
Call for details on this or with any questions you have with our products.
Weller Racing – 480-507-4771 = Jason@wellerracing.com – Kyle@wellerracing.com – www.wellerracing.com
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