Instruction manual for Monark 827E
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Monark model 827E
English
Monark Exercise AB
CONTENTS
Assembly instructions
Brake surface - brake belt
Chain
Crank bearing
Elektronic meter
Flywheel bearing
General
General about exercise
Operation instruction
Replacement - adjustment brake belt
Replacement of batteries
Replacement of freewheel sprocket
Service checklist
Warrenty
Page
9
15
16-17
20
11-13
18
4
21-23
10
14
13
18-19
20
3
3
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW EXERCISE BIKE
designed by Monark Exercise AB, Sweden. Monark has been the world’s leading manufacturer of high quality
ergometers and exercise cycles for more than 40 years.
GENERAL
It is important that you keep your ergometer clean and properly lubricated. Most important is to protect the
chromed and zinced parts but also painted parts benefit from the same protection.
When cleaning and lubricating be sure to check that all screws and nuts are properly tightened.
Be sure that all moving parts as crank and flywheel is working normal and that no unnormal play or sound
excists. I. e. play in bearings causes fast waring and with that follows a highly reduced lifetime.
PLEASE NOTE: The production number of your exercise cycle is placed according to fig 1 page 6.
WARRANTY
As on any quality product there may be an exceptional fault due to material or manufacture. If such a fault
should arise on your exercise cycle, please return to the place of purchase for necessary repair.
Monark products and parts are guaranteed against defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one
year from the initial date of purchase of the unit.
Parts found to need replacement due to normal wear and tear, such as brake belts, are not covered. This
guarantee covers parts only, not labor costs associated with the repair.
This guarantee does not apply to cases of abuse or vandalism, nor does it extend to any injury or loss to person or property caused directly or indirectly by any Monark products.
In the event of a defect in material or workmanship during the warranty period, Monark Exercise will repair or
replace (at its option) the product. Monark Exercise will do so at its expense for the cost of materials but not
for labour or shipping
4
PARTS BELOW ARE NOT ASSEMBLED.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION:
See pages 6-9.
HANDLEBAR/HANDLEBAR STEM
ELECTRONIC METER
PEDAL, LEFT HAND
PEDAL, RIGHT HAND
SUPPORTING TUBE, FRONT
SUPPORTING TUBE, REAR
5
Serial number
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Tip the cycle forward. Assemble the rear supporting
tube with two bolts and two nuts. Note: Use the
accompanying spanner. See fig 1.
Tip the cycle backwards. Assemble the front supporting tube with two nuts onto the two fixed
bolts.
NOTE: Use the accompanying spanner.
See fig 2.
6
Sadle bracket
Screw
Fig. 3
Check that the inclination of the saddle is
comfortable and that the sadle post bracket is firmly
tightened. In order to change the inclination of the
saddle, loosen the saddle bracket and tighten firmly
again.
Adjust to desired height position of saddle/saddle
post by loosening the saddle post bolt.
NOTE: Tighten firmly. See fig 3.
Fig 4
Cable
Assemble the electronic meter.
If the meter sita a little loos on the frame tube tighten
the screw on the downside a little. See fig. 4.
Connect the cable from the creank sensor to the
meter as shown on fig. above.
7
Before the handlebar stem is assembled be sure the
expanding wedge is loose. Insert the handlebar stem
into the frame tube and tighten the expanding bolt
firmly by means of the lever. The handlebar stem
should be inserted into the frame tube at least 7.5
cm (about 3 inches). Usually this measure is marked
out.
To change the height of the handlebar, loosen the
expanding bolt about 5 mm. Give the bolt a light
push to release the expanding wedge. Adjust the
handlebar to the desired position and tighten the
expanding bolt again by means of the lever.
In order to change the inclination of the handlebar,
loosen the expanding bolt one turn. Adjust to
desired angle of handlebar and tighten the expanding
bolt firmly again.
3 inches
Fig. 5
8
”L” left
Pedal marked R (Right) is to be assembled on the right
hand side of the cycle (the chain wheel side). The pedal
axle has a right hand thread and must be threaded onto the
crank clockwise. Tighten firmly. See fig 6.
Pedal marked L (Left) is to be assembled on the left hand
side of the cycle. The pedal axle has a left hand thread and
must be threaded onto the crank counter clockwise.
Tighten firmly. See fig 6.
NB! Check now and then that both pedals are still
firmly tightened. If not the threading in the pedal
arms will be damaged.
Also check that the pedal arms are firmly tightened
on the crank axle. If nessecary tighten.
”R” right
Fig. 6
9
OPERATION INSTRUCTION
The Monark Exercise cycle Model 817E is a training cycle with an adjustable brake
resistance.
The cycle is equipped with an electronic meter showing pedal revulotions per
minute (RPM), heart rate in bpm (HR), exercise time in minutes and seconds
(TIME), an imagined cycling speed in km per hour or miles per hour (SPEED),
covered distance in km or mile (DISTANCE).
When pedalling the subject supplies the flywheel with a certain kinetic energy. This is
braked by means of a brake belt which runs around the bigger part of the brake surface of the flywheel. The brake power is changed either by using another pedalling
speed or by increasing or decreasing the tension of the brake belt against the
flywheel by means of the load tension device. The harder the load is adjusted the
larger part of the indicator window turns red. See fig. 7.
The height of the saddle should be adjusted so that, when sitting comfortably with the
middleof the foot above the pedal axle and with the pedal in its lowest position, the
knee should only be slightly bent.
The adjustment of the handlebar should give a comfortable ride. When cycling for a
long time, it may be suitable some time during the exercise to change the position of
the handlebar.
NOTE! At transport the tension device should be somewhat tightened to
prevent the brake belt from falling off the fltwheel.
10
Fig. 7
ELECTRONIC METER
Specifications:
RPM:
HR:
TIME:
SPEED:
DISTANCE:
0 - 199
50 - 240
0:00 - 99.59
0 - 99
0.0 - 99.9
Batteries:
Storing temp.:
Operating temp.:
pedalrev./min
bpm
min:sek
km/h or mph
km or mile
1.5 V x 2
AA(R6)
-10ºC - +60ºC
0ºC - 50ºC
11
ELECTRONIC METER
Press the RESET-button or move the pedal to turn on the meter.
At the display for heart rate (HR) a © is lit which means that the meter is trying to find a pulse signal from
an external source (chestbelt with electrodes, not included. Our part.no 9339-91).
If the meter can not find such a signal this HR function is automatically turned off after 30 seconds. When
the function is turned off the © symbol is not lit any more.
The heart rate function can be turned on again by preessing the RESET button.
Timer starts automatically when pedals are moved.
Meter values for time and distance can be set to zero by pressing the RESET button for more than 2
seconds.
Do not expose the electronic meter to direct sunlight or extremely high temperature. Do not use any
dissolvents when cleaning. Use only dry cloth.
NOTE: The batteries are at delivery in a separat package.
If the batteries have been stored for a long time, the battery power can be too low to show all functions
on the meter. If so, batteries must be replaced.
See REPLACEMENT BATTERIES page 13.
12
REPLACEMENT OF BATTERIES
Batteries
Take the meter out of the housing by bending up in
the lower end with something sharp.
The batteries, 2 x 1.5V size AA(R6), which are
placed in the holder on the backside of the meter,
can then easily be changed.
See fig.9.
After the batteries has been replaced all segments
in the display are visible and a buzzer will sound
for two seconds.
After 2 seconds the meter turns to main display
again and normal function.
Put the meter into the housing again.
Note: On the backside of the meter is a switch to
change meter function from km to mile or mile to
km.See fig. 9.
Switch
km - mile
Fig. 9
13
REPLACEMENT OF BRAKE BELT
Remove the left or the right frame cover by undoing the
mounting screws (5pcs). Put the crank in a backward
påosition. Move the cover somewhat out in the front end
and then take it backwards to remove it.
Set the tension device in min position (min load - only white).
Loosen the brake belt a little more if needed at the
adjustment bolt. See fig 10.
Remove the old brake belt from the spring and tensioner.
Attach the new brake belt and assamble the bike in reverse
order.
NOTE: When replaceing the brake belt it is recommended
to clean the brake surface. See ”Brake Belt Contact Surface”.
ADJUSTMENT BRAKE BELT
Loosen the tension device to min load so it is standing at the
beginning of the scale. Adjust the brake belt so that
resistance increases as soon as a the tension device is turned
a little. See fig. 10.
14
Adjustment bolt
Adjustement bolt
Fig. 10
Tension device
BRAKE BELT CONTACT SURFACE - BRAKE BELT
The brake belt should be regularly checked to ensure that it has not suffered
execessive wear. If it looks worn it should be replaced.
Deposits of dirt on the brake belt and on the contact surface may cause the unit to
operate unevenly and will also wear down the brake belt. The brake belt contact of
the flywheel surface should then be ground off with a fine sand paper and any dust
removed with a clean dry cloth.
Dismantle cover see ”REPLACEMENT BRAKE BELT”.
Set the tension device to min load.
Loosen the brake belt somewhat at the adjustment bolt and
take off the brake belt to the side. Grind with a fine sand
Bromsbana
paper. See fig. 11.
Grinding is easier to perform if a second individual cautiously
Slipduk
and carefull pedals the cycle.
Irregularities on the brake belt contact surface are removed by
means of a fine sand paper or an abrasive cloth. Otherwise
unnecessary wear on the brake belt may occur and the unit
can become noisy.
Always keep the brake belt contact surface clean and dry.
No lubricant is allowed to be used.
We recommend to replace the brake belt when cleaning the contact surface.
As regards assembly and adjustment of the brake belt, see previous page.
Fig.11
15
CHAIN ½ x 1/8“
It is strongly recommended that a cahin solvent be used to keep the chain clean. Excess dirt built up on the
chain will cause excess wear. A chain lubricant and solvent for normal road bikes may be uaed.
Check the lubrication and tension of the chain at regular intervals. In the middle of its free length the chain
should have a minimum play of 5 mm. See fig 12. When the play in the chain is about 20 mm (<1 inch) the
chain must be tightened otherwise it will cause unnormal wear of the chin and chainwheels. Because of this it is
always recommende to keep the chain play as little as possible. When the chain has become so long that it can
no longer be tightened with the chain adjusters it is worn out and shall be replaced with a new one.
ADJUSTING CHAIN
Remove left and right frame cover. See ”RRPLACEMENT of BRAKE BELT”.
To adjust the chain the hub nuts should be loosened. Loosening or tightening the nuts on the chain adjusters
will then move the hub and axle forward or backward. Adjust according to above recommendation. Then
tighten the nuts on the hub axle again. See fig 12.
CHAIN REPLACEMENT
Loosen the chain adjusteras much as possible. Dismantle the cahinlock and remove the chain. Put on a new
chain and assemble the chain lock.The spring of the chain lock should be assembled with the closed end in the
movement direction of the chain. Use a pair of tongs for dismantling and assembling the spring. See fig 13.
Adjust chain adjusters to chainplay according to above. Tighten axle nuts firmly.
Put on frame covers again.
NOTE: If the wheel is not parallel to the centre line of the frame, the chain will get caught on
the top of the sprocket causeing noise and damage the chain.
16
Chain adjuster
Axel nut
Chain play
Fig. 12
Lock spring
Chain lock
Fig. 13
17
REPLACEMENT OF THE FREEWHEELING SPROCKET
Remove left and right frame cover. See ”REPLACEMENT OF BRAKE BELT”.
Dismantle the chain as described on page 16 - 17.
Loosen the axle nuts and lift off the flywheel. Remove the axle nut, washer, chain adjuster and spacer on the
freewheel side. Place the special remover (part No. 9100-14) in the adapter and place the spacer and axle
nut outside. See fig 14.
NOTE: Do not tighten the axle nut completely. It must be possible to loosen the adapter-sprocket half a turn.
Replace sprocket-adapter and assemble the new parts in reverse order according to the above.
LUBRICATION SPROCKET
The sprocket should be lubricated with a few drops of oil once a year. Incline the cycle somewhat to make it
easier for the oil to reach the bearing. See fig 15.
18
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
19
CRANK BEARING
The crank bearing is long term greased and needs normally no supplementary lubrication. If problem arises,
please contact your Monark dealer.
FLYWHEEL BEARING
The bearings in the flywheel are lifetime greased and require normally no maintenance. If problem arises,
please contact your Monark dealer.
SERVICE ROUTINE
Check the:
¨ chain is snug and there is no play on the pedal crank
¨ pedal crank is secure to the crank axle
¨ pedals moving smoothly, and is the pedal axle clear of dirt and fibres
¨ pedals are securely fitted to the pedal crank
¨ handlebar not higher than min required insertion length
¨ flywheel rotating smoothly and central
¨ handlebars and saddle adjustment screws lubricated
¨ pressure washer on saddle tube is present
¨ saddle clip is tight and that the saddle is at a correct angle.
¨ brake belt does not show significant signs of wear
¨ pedals and chain are lubricated
20
THE IMPORTANCE OF REGULAR EXERCISE
The human body is built for action – not for rest. Once upon a time this was a necessity: the struggle for
survival demanded good physical condition. But optimal function can only be achieved by regularly exposing
the heart, circulation, muscles, tendons, skeleton and nervous system to some loading, i.e. training.
In the old days the body got its exercise both in work and at leisure. In our modern society, however,
machines have taken over an ever increasing share of the tasks which were formerly accomplished with
muscular power alone. Our life has at an accelerated tempo been dominated by sitting, riding and lying. Thus,
the natural and vital stimulation that tissues and internal organs receive through physical exercise has largely
disappeared. Certain tissues such as muscles, bone and blood and also a number of bodily functions can
adapt to inactivity – and to stress. Studies have proved that if you use 30 minutes for exercise like brisk
walking, running, bicycling, swimming or skiing 2-3 times a week, your condition has been improved by some
15 per cent after a few months. The efficiency of the heart muscle will increase and joints and muscles grow in
strength. The capillary density increases in the trained muscle and their enzymatic activities are enhanced. The
body adapts to the new demands. The perceived exertion at a given rate of exercise becomes reduced.
With increased physical activity fatness is concentrated, the appetite functions “safer”, you can eat more
without risk for overweight and thereby the risk of lack of important essential food nutrients decreases. For
many individuals the effect of habitual physical activity also improves the wellbeing and it is a good feeling to
have a potential to cope with straining situations.
21
What kind of exercise to choose?
1. You should have fun when exercising. Choose something you find pleasure in doing regularly.
2. To get o good effect out of the training you should choose a form of exercise that engages large muscle
groups. Then the demand of increased blood flow and oxygen transport will be so great that heart will
increase its pump capacity. Jogging, calesthenics, aerobic dancing, bicycling, swimming, skiing and walking
are excellent examples of exercises meeting this requirement.
IN A FEW MONTHS YOU CAN GET 10-15 YEARS YOUNGER
If you cycle 30 minutes a few times a week you can lower your condition age with 10-15 years! Scientifically
this is described as a reduction on the biological age. Externally, you are your usual self. Internally, however,
you feel much younger. In other words: You can work harder. You feel more alert and healthy. Your ability to
handle stress and problems increases. There are few better ways to improve your physical condition than to
cycle. It does not over-tax your joints. It builds up your condition progressively and at your own pace – and
you can make your training fit weather conditions.
DO I LOOSE WEIGHT WHEN I CYCLING?
Yes! You do lose calories. A few miles on your bike every day over one year, you will have lost the equivalent
of 20 pounds of body fat. You will achieve best results if you combine exercise with healthier eating. A little
less sugar, less butter on your bread or less fat in your frying pan. And a few miles on your bike every day. In
a year you will have lost 20 pounds.
22
DO I GET STRONGER?
Cycling strengthens the muscles of the back, abdomen and legs. Daily chores become easier. Cycling also makes your heart stronger. Your pulse rate gets lower even when you exert yourself a little extra. Regular exercise
also has a favourable influence on high blood pressures.
HOW DO I TRAIN?
1. Warm up 3-5 minutes with a low pedal resistance. Pedal about 12 mph (20 km/h).
2. Increase the resistance until you feel the training “somewhat hard”. Keep the speed for 2-5 minutes. Get
off the Ergometer and rest a few minutes. Cycle again and then rest. Train at your own pace and with a
comfortable pedal resistance. After a few weeks you can increase the resistance.
3. Before ending, pedal a few minutes with a light resistance, in order to step down your training.
Total time about 30 minutes.
Strength training:
1. Give yourself a thorough warm-up.
2. Pedal with a heavy resistance for 5-10 seconds, then rest 45-60 seconds. Repeat this 5-10 times.
It is a good idea to combine your cycle training with gymnastics for 5 minutes, as this will give you a
physiologically well-balanced form of training.
(Elderly people and physically weak persons should consult a doctor before starting their training.)
23
432 82 Varberg, Sweden
Tel: +46 0340 86000
Fax:+46 0340 80485
78050 Vansbro, Sweden
Tel: +46 0281 594940
Fax:+46 0281 71981
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