Disassembling and boxing your bike- Materials Needed

Disassembling and boxing your bike- Materials Needed
Disassembling and boxing your bikeMaterials Needed:
Locate a bike box from a team member or
from your local bike shop.
Pipe insulation
Required Tools:

Zip ties

pedal wrench

4-5-6-8 mm Allen wrenches
Masking tape
High Density Foam
Bubble wrap
Zip-lock bag
Remove the pedals, seat, and seat post. Shift the
bicycle chain onto the small chain ring and largest
rear cog. Now remove the pedals by turning the
right counterclockwise and the left clockwise (the left pedal is
“reverse threaded”). Place the pedals in the zip-lock bag. Take
a piece of masking tape and place it around your seat post
right above the seat post clamp (see pic below). Loosen and
remove the seat post and seat. For your handlebars, place a
piece of tape on each side of the clamp and mark it with a felt
pen (see pic). Wrap the frame, fork and crank arms (photo),
(tape the wraps in place.)
Create cable slack. Usually, you have to create cable
slack and remove the front brake, or part of it, to be
able to remove and move the handlebars. However,
you don’t want to undo the cables at the anchor bolts because
this means having to readjust everything upon your arrival. If
you’re packing a road bike, open the brake quick releases to
create slack (photo a). For off-road bikes, unhook the noodles
from linear-pull brakes (photo b) or release the cable ends on
the cantilevers. To create slack in the shift cables, move the
right lever as if you were shifting into a smaller cog and then pull outward on the front derailleur. On many bikes,
this will let you release the shift-cable housing from the frame stops, which will provide plenty of slack.
Remove the front brake. If you have a road bike
with side pull brakes, remove the front brake from
the fork, reattaching its nut and any
hardware (photo) and wrapping it in paper (do not detach the
cable). For linear-pull and cantilever brakes, remove the side
of the brake that is attached to the cable and be sure to tape
the parts together so they cannot get lost. Removing the brake
like this retains your adjustment and lets the brake move with
the handlebars.
Remove the handlebars. If you have a stem that can
be opened to remove the handlebars, do so and
replace the stem bolts, snugging them so they won’t
fall out and get lost during shipping (leave the stem in place on
the bike). For other types of handlebars and stems, you’ll need
to remove the bars and stem as a unit. For threadless models,
(bolts will be on the side/back of the stem), loosen and
remove the top cap, then loosen the stem bolts and remove
the stem. Be sure to reattach the top cap and spacers, noting
their position for correct reassembly. Also, install a zip tie (or
tape) around the top of the fork just above the top
spacer (photo) so it won’t rattle or fall out of the frame. If you
have a quill-type stem (bolt on top, inserts into steerer tube), loosen the bolt on top a few turns and tap it with a
mallet, which will drive down the wedge inside loosening the stem in the frame. For now, temporarily rest or tie
the handlebars/stem assembly to the left side of the bike (non-chain side).
Remove the front wheel. Unscrew the quick release and remove it from the frame. Many riders use a
common flat repair tool to protect their forks from damage. Place the fork protection tool in place
between the dropouts (photo). Make sure it's attached securely with masking tape so that it can't fall
out during shipping. This will protect the forks from any pressure inward.
Tie the bike/wheel together. With the bike resting
on the ground, place the wheel next to the left side
of the bike with the axle protector facing out.
Usually, you will have to weave the left crank arm between
the spokes, which is why you wrapped it. Make sure no part of
the crank arm touches any part of the rim and that the axle
cannot touch the frame tubes. Then zip tie the wheel to the
bike in several places so it cannot change position (photo).
Position the handlebars. If you are packing a bike
with flat bars, you can usually fit the bars on top of
the top tube and wheel. Place them so they are as
narrow as possible so the bike will pass through the box
opening. In addition, make sure that no part of the bars or
stem can bang into the frame or rim. Add generous padding
or bubble wrap. Then tie the bars in place. For dropped
handlebars, try putting them under the top tube and partly
inside the wheel (photo) or try resting the hooks on the top
tube with the levers facing up. You may need to fine-tune the
placement when the bike is in the box if the levers protrude
too far. Levers are fragile and expensive, so situate them safely, padding them generously. Also, pay attention to
the cables and housing so you do not kink them. Maintain loops in the housing and keep trying until you f ind a
handlebar position that is safe and prevents movement.
Box it! Tape your parts bag shut and place it in the
bottom of the box (it is a good idea to attach the bag
to the bike so it cannot move around). Rotate the
fork 180 degrees, which will make the package a little shorter.
Place some high-density Styrofoam along the bottom of the
box. Now, lift the bike and place it into the box so that the
parts bag ends up just behind the fork. Wrap the seat/seat
post, rest it on the rear wheel and tie it to the wheel so it has
cannot get loose and bang up your bike (photo). Pack aero handlebars similarly or wherever they fit best. If you
removed it, tie or tape the front brake so it cannot bang into anything. As a precaution, attach your
name/address/phone to the bike. Don’t forget to place your return shipping label inside the box. One last thing
before closing the box – take some extra high-density Styrofoam and place it along the sides and ends of the box.
You’ll want to insert these generously, especially on the inside of the skewers and rear cassette. The high-density
Styrofoam provides excellent padding and protection. Then place a strip or two along the top of the bike, using
masking tape to secure it to the bike. Close up your bike box and tape securely
High-Density Styrofoam for boxing a bike: This can be purchased at numerous stores for about a $1 for a 4 ft.
piece. It is an excellent, low-cost solution to padding and protecting your bike. Once cut in half, this can be
place inside and around your bike to provide excellent damage protection.
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